#How to install mosquito magnum+ firmware on Creality CR10 S5 & where to solder each wire to
faint timber
faint timber
gonna show extra pics for how to where to solder which on which for now I want to know how I can install this firmware on my creality
so far it seems like it could be connected to the computer by micro or mini usb
specific question is, where can I find this firmware and how do I upload it? using what software?
though, while researching I came across a reddit post abt klipper, does installing klipper firmware to my 3d printer make it easier to install/add in other firmwares to my printer?
actually since it would be alot of effort to install and tweek some settings if I were to go thru this, imma just make a whole new printer from scratch
but would love my questions to be answered as well to see if my guess were actually correct or not
faint timber
actually since it would be alot of effort to install and tweek some settings if ...
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ebgqJgsUdWuzo6hmqEKO89rngOUP0DRQ_vw74G1KCr4/edit?usp=sharing if you'd like, please add some additions and subtractions to this chart, you can tell me what I need in general or be specific and recommend me some parts you think are good
faint timber
my goal is to build a reasonably fast big 3d printer
How big can my 3d printer get without it being nerfed by it's size as much? (300mm to 380mm?) x 600mm(unless height makes it slow too then 510 or 480?) x (300mm to 380mm?)
tulip cliff
what do you mean by the hotend firmware?
do you mean firmware changes to support the hotend?
the hotend itself technically works with just about any firmware, you'd just need to configure it properly (the aforementioned firmware changes)
the only firmware changes you'd really need though is the thermistor
and you'd obviously have to recalibrate everything (PID, flow, pressure advance/linear advance, etc)
tulip cliff
though, while researching I came across a reddit post abt klipper, does installi...
klipper does make it easier to change the firmware configuration, because the firmware runs on a raspberry pi and does not need to be flashed to change the config
for marlin and other firmwares, you'd need to recompile the whole firmware and then reflash it if you wanna change the config
tulip cliff
https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1ebgqJgsUdWuzo6hmqEKO89rngOUP0DRQ_vw74G1K...
you don't really need a tungsten nozzle unless you're running some really abrasive materials
if you wanna build a fast printer, I'd suggest you look into preexisting designs for inspiration
mainly the voron trident/v2.4, the ratrig, hevort, and vzbot
tulip cliff
actually since it would be alot of effort to install and tweek some settings if ...
It's probably not worth building a new printer unless you actually need to, as its a lot of effort and cost. You can install klipper on just about any printer, but you would just need a raspberry pi (or some other pc) to run it
as for your title question about where to solder the wires, they don't get soldered, they go into screw terminals on your mainboard
the heater wires at least, the thermistor wires should just plug into where your old thermistor was
faint timber
you don't really need a tungsten nozzle unless you're running some *really* abra...
Yeah I am
faint timber
It's probably not worth building a new printer unless you actually need to, as i...
At first I was planning on upgrading my Creality CR10 S5 fully, but I'd have to replace almost everything or probably everything, but I will use some of my 3d printer's parts like the motors, steel beams and maybe the bed, a big maybe
faint timber
klipper does make it easier to change the firmware configuration, because the fi...
Luckily I had a spare Raspberry pi 4 and everything was going well until I was stuck on 3:12
Tomorrow I'm gonna open up the printer's controller box and see what type of board I got and I'm gonna try to find the right config file for it
But even before finding the right config file, Idk if I should upgrade the controller, what good would it do?
I saw bigtree something something being mentioned a lot in people's upgrades at reddit
My other plan is to make it so my hotend moves at x y and z and my bed stays stationary
I feel like it's easier for it to be leveled that way bc you don't have the need of turning knobs and all that junk since they get unturned, little by little during long prints
faint timber
as for your title question about where to solder the wires, they don't get solde...
Ooooo alright
faint timber
mainly the voron trident/v2.4, the ratrig, hevort, and vzbot
Roger that, foeski
Also is the firmware from TH3D, rlly optimized or idk, good Code sold for specific boards or some?
Reddit someone recommended TH3D for a firmware generator or sorts
rigid fractal
Idk if it was answered but all thats needed is to change the thermistor type (at least for marlin) and make temp maxes into like 500 or whatever
Pretty sure thats all
Does your board even support the heater present?
faint timber
So far I'm not sure, but I'll check after work
rigid fractal
You can probably ask splice themselfs for any support considering how much the product costs xd
faint timber
Lol yeah
tulip cliff
Idk if it was answered but all thats needed is to change the thermistor type (at...
marlin also has different thermistor types, the mosquito magnum comes with a pt100 afaik
you do actually have to change it in the configuration.h
thats how it figures out the temp from the resistance curves
https://github.com/MarlinFirmware/Marlin/blob/bugfix-2.1.x/Marlin/Configuration.h#L454 heres the associated section in configuration.h
tulip cliff
Does your board even support the heater present?
theoretically as long as the firmware supports it and its not some crazy weird temp sensor that doesnt use resistance then any board should support it
the board literally just has a pin that reads the resistance across it, theres nothing that could really make a thermistor completely incompatible with a board
tulip cliff
My other plan is to make it so my hotend moves at x y and z and my bed stays sta...
for that design look at the voron 2.4
the voron 2.4 has a completely stationary bed
just know that it adds a lot of complexity and is the main reason that the 2.4 is around $1800 to build
also, that wouldn't really have an effect on leveling other than quad gantry leveling (which you could also do with corexy)
quad leveling is basically when each one of the z steppers in each corner of the gantry can move independently to skew the entire gantry to compensate for a tilted bed (it does not remove the need for mesh bed leveling though, that just compensates for tilt, not any curvatures in the bed)
imo if you want a fast printer just go corexy
you can still do quad leveling with corexy, its a lot less complex and therefore cheaper (the voron trident is corexy and you can build the full sized 350x350 version for $900)
tulip cliff
Luckily I had a spare Raspberry pi 4 and everything was going well until I was s...
theres most likely a default example config for the cr10 s5
btw just to clarify, I still don't recommend converting your cr10 to corexy
a bedslinger to corexy conversion is really involved and complex and you'd end up spending almost as much as a voron trident for less performance than one
and yes I am a voron trident shill I've been researching that thing for months planning on building one
I would still recommend klipper for your s5, but maybe save the magnum for the diy printer as it would be able to take better advantage of it
bedslingers, especially ones with huge beds like the s5, can't handle a lot of acceleration for obvious reasons (heavy bed), so you wouldn't really be able to get much speed out of it
I can do 7k accel on my ender 3 but I know I'm getting ringing even with input shaper, I just personally don't care about print quality as much as speed, and I'm okay with a little bit of ringing if it makes the print faster
I have tested 5k accel with zero ringing though
tulip cliff
theres most likely a default example config for the cr10 s5
https://github.com/Klipper3d/klipper/blob/master/config/printer-creality-cr10s-2017.cfg here is the example config for the cr10s, from my research the cr10 s5 is just an upgrade to the cr10s, so the mainboard is likely identical
You can use that as a starting point and just figure out the rest from there, heres the configuration reference documentation: https://www.klipper3d.org/Config_Reference.html
rigid fractal
marlin also has different thermistor types, the mosquito magnum comes with a pt1...
thats what i said
I wouldn't make a voron honestly
look into annex k3 instead
tulip cliff
my goal is to build a reasonably fast big 3d printer
keyword here is big
tulip cliff
whats wrong with the voron anyways
rigid fractal
not a huge fan of the design
its not a bad project love the guys who work on it but idk i wouldn't want to own one
tulip cliff
what don't you like about it
rigid fractal
some aspects are overcomplicated for no reason at all
and I mean it is reliable but tbh most people I know with a voron spend a lot of time working on it aswell
like a really long time
it reminds me a little of the 100, which like the voron can be useful but it also feels gimmicky at the same time
tulip cliff
oh okay that makes sense
tulip cliff
personally Ive done that with my ender 3 and currently have it in a super reliable state, and havent had a print failure with it in over a month and 4kg of filament going through
so if I get an unreliable voron I'd be okay with it since I can just fall back on that lol
plus I like messing around/upgrading stuff
I'm still in the process of figuring out what kinda specs I want, I saw the formbot kit which is super cheap compared to the other kits I saw
but still considering which hotend to go with (currently between the phaetus dragon and rapido)
tulip cliff
I've heard of it but never really looked into it that much tbh
faint timber
I've read everything and everything is rlly interesting
and now I got another idea
what if...
Rat Rig V-Core 4.0 - 500 CoreXY Full Kit v1.0 (USA/CAN)
500mm size :OOOOO
imma check if I can switch the magnum+ to theres
faint timber
would love the answer to that if u can beat me to it
faint timber
for that design look at the voron 2.4
can I also make it 500x500x500mm?
faint timber
https://us.ratrig.com/3d-printers/v-core-4-category/rat-rig-v-core-4-0-all-sizes...
and if I could, can I make one thats better than this?
tulip cliff
if you want something 500x500x500 then definitely go for that
ratrigs are nice, and the voron 2.4 only goes up to 350x350x350
plus the voron 2.4 is more expensive than the ratrig generally speaking
faint timber
OOO and if I can switch it's hotend to the mosquito magnum+, MM MM MMMMM
tulip cliff
the nice thing about it being a diy printer is you can change anything you want
faint timber
tulip cliff
in that case though don't get the preconfigured kit version, get the configurable version so that you can swap the hotend
faint timber
Oooo, alr
tulip cliff
https://us.ratrig.com/3d-printers/v-core-4-category/v-core-4-500.html heres the link to that kit
you can mostly leave the default configuration unless you wanna change something, but where it says Electronics - Toolhead just uncheck the phaetus rapido hhf
also, did you already buy the magnum+?
tulip cliff
oh alright lol
tulip cliff
I was gonna see if there was an option to get it included with the kit (which usually ends up being a little cheaper)
faint timber
I see
tulip cliff
the main way they make money with those kits is the fact that they get huge bulk discounts on the individual components and then keep the difference. if you were to part out every piece of the kit, you'd often find yourself spending more than just the kit
also if you wanna save a little money on the kit you can print the parts yourself (they charge $76 for the printed parts)
but they have to be ABS or ASA
PLA/PETG would soften and melt at the temperatures those parts are meant to handle
faint timber
Yeah that's part of the reason why I am now leaning over getting a whole new printer (specifically 500x500x500mm) bc it would be expensive to get every part individually and the code for the printer, that's a whole challenge
tulip cliff
honestly configuration is not that big of a deal if you know what you're doing
faint timber
Hmmm I wonder if my printer can print abs
tulip cliff
but mainly designing a printer thats stable enough to handle high speeds is a huge engineering challenge, one thats not worth the hassle when theres already a bunch of well made and proven open source designs
tulip cliff
Hmmm I wonder if my printer can print abs
if you don't have any sort of enclosure it'll be a challenge
faint timber
if you don't have any sort of enclosure it'll be a challenge
OO damn
tulip cliff
is that cr10 the only printer you have?
faint timber
Excited now, imma order it now
Also jk, lol gonna take a while before I buy it
faint timber
is that cr10 the only printer you have?
Yeah
tulip cliff
damn, you could research how well it prints abs
or honestly I've heard of people literally putting big ass cardboard boxes over their printers and it working pretty well
but with a big printer like that it would still be difficult to print
faint timber
Will do, and yeah I used a giant plastic blanket
tulip cliff
the other advantage you'd get from printing them yourself is you get to pick the highlight color (their kits have a black/green color scheme but you can get another color if you want)
I know personally I'm planning on printing my voron parts in black/blue
faint timber
Yeah I'll definitely see if I can print abs
rigid fractal
V core is pretty nice
I would deffo go for one instead of a custom 500 cubed voron
faint timber
Alrighty, it's set in stone then
faint timber
when the times comes
since Im getting a second printing tool, I should get another magnum+?
rigid fractal
no bruh ๐ญ
put the current mag+ on the ratrig and buy some whatever hotend for the cr10
that bed is so massive it can't even move fast enough to use the volumetric flow of a magnum
put like a biqu bbl clone hotend on it or something cheap idk
faint timber
ooo alr alr
faint timber
put the current mag+ on the ratrig and buy some whatever hotend for the cr10
wait wait wait
faint timber
since Im getting a second printing tool, I should get another magnum+?
I meant this
rigid fractal
what will you use idex for
because usually its used for like soluble supports
which is printed at like 190c
you don't need a magnum for that
faint timber
brb
back
almost crashed mah ship
ogh I need it for reduced print times and being able to print multiple materials
imma need some pristine prints
rigid fractal
2 toolheads won't really speed up a print
you can use it to print 2 of the same prints at once
rigid fractal
then ig 2 magnums would be good yea
faint timber
nice
rigid fractal
bro casually spending my paycheck on 2 pieces of metal
faint timber
and with each magnum having it's pair of 2 100W heaters, the power supply can handle it since it's 250W and 24v?
๐
don't worry foe
this time it's gonna take multiple paychecks to get this hunk
rigid fractal
and with each magnum having it's pair of 2 100W heaters, the power supply can ha...
no idea
check it with ratrig ig
faint timber
alr
tulip cliff
afaik ratrig has a pretty nice support team, they'll help you figure out what you need lol
and yeah idex cant help you speed up a single-model print, you can either print the same model twice at the same time or do multimaterial for one model, but you cant do one half of the model with one then the other half with the other or something like that
but yeah if you're gonna be printing a lot of one part then it would be nice
and btw ratrig is like the only diy fast printer design that supports idex afaik
hevort, vzbot, and voron don't
although the voron 2.4 has support for toolchangers
technically, since its diy, you could put whatever you want in whatever printer you want, but you would have to design and engineer the whole thing which is complicated. Its a lot easier to just use something thats already designed
rigid fractal
I've heard all of the voron 2.4s bigger tahn 300 cubed are pain in the ass
if 350 is biggest supported i can only imagine the 500 experience lol
tulip cliff
Yeah but the ratrig is a completely different design
rigid fractal
yeah I'm saying it because he wants a 500 so just in case he considers a voron
tulip cliff
ratrig is corexy with the bed moving in z, v2.4 is corexy with the gantry moving in z as well
faint timber
but yeah if you're gonna be printing a lot of one part then it would be nice
Yeah it's gonna be epic bc I have to print pairs of 18650 battery holders, legs (hella legs) and other weird stuff
faint timber
and btw ratrig is like the only diy fast printer design that supports idex afaik
YEET
rigid fractal
what slicer do they use
I've heard usual idex slicing is pain in the ass
probably related to the fact they arent very popular
rigid fractal
wow
faint timber
Wanna pet her?
rigid fractal
never got flexed on in pet matter
rigid fractal
not albino?
faint timber
Has some yellow marks on her spine
Sadly no, but I still love her xd
She never bit me, never
Banana snoodles
rigid fractal
thats nice
i wanted to make a vivarium for a while
but considering i cant take care of a cactus i gave up on it
faint timber
Ooo a lil cactus that's cute ๐๐๐
rigid fractal
i found this one perfect plant for me
it sucks moisture from air ๐ญ
you just have it in a cup and thats all
best i can do
faint timber
Didn't know what a vivarium is so I searched it and saw a movie, looks cool and I think I'll watch it today
faint timber
it sucks moisture from air ๐ญ
Oooo that's pretty cool, imagine that inside a box with filament but that's probs not good? Xd
faint timber
Ooo u watched it?
faint timber
Lmao oh damn
rigid fractal
i'll spoil it so you spend the time on something smarter
faint timber
Alr
rigid fractal
alien sells them a magic house that forces them to raise a fellow alien that then kills them and goes selling houses again
boring as shit
faint timber
What the, LOL
rigid fractal
the aliens look like humans but act weird
idk its boring as fuck and goofy
watch breaking bad
greatest piece of media ever created
faint timber
OOO yeah, on the second season so far
rigid fractal
good
rigid fractal
Albuquerque residents actually had a problem with their statues being put in the city
because the show is about making drugs
in reality every single characters life fucking sucks
so i don't know what does it do other than teach people not to make meth
faint timber
xDDDD
faint timber
I asked in the discord if I could see possible answers, but got new info
they're short I suppose?
and remodel the fact duck, what is that?
tulip cliff
and remodel the fact duck, what is that?
the fan duct is the things on the side of the hotend that direct part cooling airflow to the print
tulip cliff
which is *long*
pic of rapido for reference
faint timber
the fan duct is the things on the side of the hotend that direct part cooling ai...
oooo alr
faint timber
pic of rapido for reference
oo damn
faint timber
"The V-Core 4 is currently only compatible with the Rapido 2 hotend. If you're using two 100W heaters, the power supply might not be sufficient to handle the load effectively."
Response from email
rigid fractal
whats wrong with the rapidos
I understand now you got a 500 euro hotend sitting around
rigid fractal
yea
rigid fractal
the cr10? ๐คญ
faint timber
Hell no now
Xd
Screw it
After that printer
Imma buy another, a small one
This one's gonna be the fast one
Sonic speed
rigid fractal
probably building up on the nozzle and then getting burnt
and then adhering back to the print
faint timber
How can I reduce or eliminate those chocolates from appearing again?
rigid fractal
Hm you could get this one product
Ptfe paint from splice
Its pretty expensive but works well
It limits the nozzle to 280c so i wouldnt put it on the carbide
Or a diy solution would be putting some avocado oil on a nozzle and then heating it to like 280c(?) Till the oil polimerizes
Not sure whats the temp again
It has a very similar effect but it also limits the temperature
faint timber
Oooo I see
rigid fractal
the avocado oil is the same principle on how people season woks
you polimerize the oil and it becomes non stick
the ptfe paint doesn't need that iirc you just apply it
faint timber
I can also just lower nozzle temps?
rigid fractal
If you have build up on nozzle it will still end up somewhere on the print just maybe not burned
faint timber
how do I reduce buildup?
faint timber
Thanks foeski
rigid fractal
@faint timber any updates on the crazy builds
faint timber
<@241383668277313556> any updates on the crazy builds
sadly not atm bc I recently bought a new escooter since my old one discombobulated
from this
to this
and a new monitor for games; now I am officially broke for now Duck
once I learn and get a good welding job; they shall resume
I rlly hope ratrig will implement the feature with it's current printer I'm interested in; I want to replace the hotend with the mosquito magnum+ as it is just siding inside my storage box
rigid fractal
e scooters are kinda goofy imo
I mean I wouldn't like just standing on it for the entire duration of the travel
faint timber
My legs do hurt after a while ๐
rigid fractal
My legs do hurt after a while ๐
any updates
topaz pine
just read this .. the hot end must be 3 times worth the printer ๐
rigid fractal
just read this .. the hot end must be 3 times worth the printer ๐
I told him to get that
topaz pine
I told him to get that
im not wrong about pricing though ๐
rigid fractal
well its no bad faith, "the printer" is essentially the aluminum frame atp
can't get much better than that, maybe steel if you got it squared
topaz pine
well its no bad faith, "the printer" is essentially the aluminum frame atp
I didnt say you were wrong or had ill intended reasons. Just that slice is a extremly expensive hotend
rigid fractal
since I suggested it a few more options came out, still not slice class but better performance in flow
faint timber
any updates
Waiting for ratrig to announce mosquito magnums are compatible with their printers ๐ญ or are they now?
Dude the mosquito magnum+ I got is just hanging out inside my desk, chilling
rigid fractal
Dude the mosquito magnum+ I got is just hanging out inside my desk, chilling
honestly sorry for suggesting it lol, its really solid hardware but due to its price its not common
topaz pine
And the stupid patend on the support pillars rubbed many the wrong way
faint timber
honestly sorry for suggesting it lol, its really solid hardware but due to its p...
lol, its fine man
I could perhaps get some help making a custom printer with it
rigid fractal
I didn't get to building an entire printer myself yet but ik a few toolhead designs that support mag+
faint timber
Nice, I'd love to have them, any type of support is valuable
