These pictures are showing the left and right side of the print, i cant figure out why the line spacing on the right is so bad. I literally took a block 20mm tall, put it between the bed leveling wheel and bed and tightened the wheel until i felt tension, i did this to ensure that each corner was the same distance. After which, i leveled the z axis beam, but still cant get the bed to level. I dont really have an issue with the way it looks, what the issue is, is that its compromising my prints, many prints, i have to use these brims to make sure that it adheres enough to get the print down. This is a sudden issue that came up the past few days and ive been trying to figure it out, but i cant. Can anybody explain or help
#bed leveling
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
How did you level the Z axis, in this case?
I used 2 objects the same size and put one on each end of the undercarriage top part (the mainboard housing below the bed) then lowered it. It was unleveled and it did kind of help, but not enough
I think its an issue with my z axis leveling considering its only uneven right to left, but i dont know why leveling it didnt resolve it
Ah... That is not how I'd recommend doing the actual leveling of your bed, but rather just for making sure your printer's frame isn't very skewed. To level the print head, you should really try moving the nozzle to various locations above the printbed, setting the Z height to 0, and then raising or lowering the bed until a 0.1mm feeler gauge (or a piece of printer paper, should be about the same thickness) just barely starts to feel some resistance when sliding it around. Do make sure the nozzle and bed are cold and clean while doing this.
I would recommend doing a few rounds of this above each bed leveling screw, as well as checking the middle of the print bed you're done
Ahh, ive already done all that. Bed is perfectly level, itself. I think its the z axis beam that holds the hotend thats off
Jesus, i swear i wasnt mocking you by saying ahh, but yea, bed is level. Idk, im gettin a bambu labs p1p next week. This ender 3 that i have is gonna become my hobby printer
did you check abl is even on in the start script? ( common issue by creality printers)
Yes, and the idea is that you adjust the bed to match that :D
The bed doesn't need to be perfectly level, it needs to perfectly match the nozzle's movement
What is the script that should be in the start script? Also, i personaly always leveled and set z offset with the printer head and bed up to printing temps... is that wrong?
Actually... Is that an ABL probe I see in the first picture?
I completely missed that, apologies
Yeah thats the same probe i use. The wcrip for auto bed level should it complete test or a simple 2 bump probe for that?
That depends on how you level it; if you use a sheet of paper or a ~0.1mm feeler gauge, I'd recommend doing it cold, since the parts that heat up expand a bit when doing so
I currently have my start gcode set to heat up the bed, wait for that to complete, then turn the nozzle heat on, do a full ABL sequence while that's heating up, and by the time the ABL is done, the nozzle will just about be up to temperature ^^
Yes i have always used a feeler gauge to level with componets up to temp.... that way everything is expanded just as if it eas printing
Ah, yea, as long as you keep that in mind it's fine, so if you make sure you're not leveling to 0, but to the extra height of the feeler gauge
You dm me yoir start code for that? Im learning the coding process. Also reply to my messages so i can respond
But for example with Klipper's PROBE_CALIBRATE command, you'd want to do it cold ^^
Sure can do, give me a second ^^
either G29 and M420S1 or just m420 s1
Now i dont know if i should level cold or hot
at print temp
and i always set the z offset during print ( just dont forget to save it after)
As long as you take expansion into account (either by leveling to 0 with some space while cold, or to the exact value you need when hot), either works
Amen to that as it has made a huge difference in my quality
For some reason my adjustments are .05mm but during a live print i can do .01mm
But if you use an automatic offset sequence (like PROBE_CALIBRATE) you'll want to do it cold
(Have not had to do any manual Z-offset adjustments after using that command with a 0.1mm feeler gauge, it's great ^^)
G28/29 is if thats what you mean