#Weird layer issues with KP3S
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I've tried mods to add belt tensioning to the y axis, a different z screw bracket, cleaning and lubing the z screw, replacing the thing that holds the screw in place, lubing the y and x linear rails, PID tuning (multiple times)
I've also tried printing on different beds
not much change in that regard
I should also mention, I'm printing these with polylite natural ASA
have you done e-steps, flow and heat tower calibration for that filament?
also are you printing ASA in an enclosure?
several times each, yes
also yes
can you take a picture of the printer itself.. from all sides. id just like to take a look.
Running ABL rn but here's the front
Alllright nevermind, I just got M112
Wtf
See what I mean with this printer constantly giving me issues?
you said you modded it.. what exactly did you mod?
I added a y axis belt tensioner
i see linear rails on x and y what happened to z?
and swapped out the fan
never had one
that's how it comes stock
with linear rails?
yes
when you added that, did you redo the e-steps for the y axis?
Kingroon KP3S 3.0 3D printer is a desktop 3d printer with a direct drive extruder for various 3d printer filament prints, like PLA, TPU, ABS, PETG, ASA, and more. The linear guide rails of both the X-axis and Y-axis highly increase the print accuracy. Kingroon KP3S ensures you silent print with TMC2225 stepper driver.
I think I did but I can't remember
the print issues don't seem to be only on the y axis though
i know. im just going through a checklist with you.
anything that you might have forgotten could compound the issue.
right
yeah it's about as straight as it can get
whats the coupler look like?
I considered that as a possible issue at one point but when I swapped the z screw bracket it made print quality way worse, besides that the screw hardly wobbled to begin with
lemme send a pic of that real quick
well, after ABL again
got M112 because I accidentally adjusted it too much and had one corner of the bed below the range of the printer's allowed movement
it's going good now tho
cannot seem to balance this thing for the life of me though ffs
no worries. acutally i was thinking of removing the z-screw bracket at the top
it might be acutally causing to much tension on the lead screw.
and at the top?
you removed this. https://kingroon.com/collections/kingroon-kp3s-3d-printer-parts-accessories/products/3d-printer-z-axis-stabilizer-upgrade
Universal 3D printer Z-axis stabilizer for a more stable and smooth print. Suitable for Kingroon KP3S, Creality CR-10/CR-10S, Ender 3, Ender 3Pro/Ender 3 V2 Z-axis leadscrew top mount. Package includes: Z-rod bearing holder * 1PCS / 2PCS / 4PCSFREE shipping for orders over 8USD.The picture is for reference only. Plea
It didn't come with that
interesting..
that's just a separate accessory
the coupler in the picture did you replace that or is that the standard one?
that's the normal one
also where are you from? europe or states?
US
damn.
try and find a flexible coupler. i think it might be slightly to stiff. and thats the reason you are getting those wierd lines.
I did try printing a replacement coupler
I don't remember what happened when I used it but it wasn't an improvement
if you where in europe, you could have gotten this.. look at the pictures. and you will understand what i mean
yeah that wont really. work.. your printer needs perfect tuning. if you are going to print motion parts
oh nice I didn't know alignment balls were a thing
makes sense
that's probably why the replacement z-screw bracket didn't work either lol
yeah i replaced all my couplers with those.
if you can find something similar. i would suggest doing that.
I've seen a ton of flexible couplers but nothing with a ball
id grab one of those flexible couplers.
just to see if that makes a difference..
shouldnt be that expensive a few bucks.
Flexible shaft couplers used in small CNC machines and 3D printers such as Prusa i3 or ORD Bot. Flex capability of the coupler removes stress when shafts are not aligned perfectly. Brand Listing,Item package or product surface have OctagonStar brand identity, If you buy is not OctagonStar brand p...
1.Aluminum alloy 2.The Shaft Coupler is not elastic 3.Shaft must be located in a straight line 4. If your equipment is eccentric already, then it will make noise and cause off-centering 5.The shaft couplers are mainly used for CNC machines,servo motors, spindle, step motor etc Specifications: Pro...
there's a few options it seems
yeah, its kinda pick and choose lol.
which kind should I go for?
either or, i have both. the octagon are pretty much the same as the amazon link i sent. except with out the ball. which you could possibly find somewhere else later
and the red ones i have as well. those are also very good.
like i said. pick either or.
then again. the octagon are on sale.
why pay more.
part of me wants to get it off of aliexpress just cuz there's a few other things I wanna get from there as well but also idk if I wanna wait a few weeks to get it
There's some parts to mod the printer to have linear z axis rails and a flashlight to mount on my eskate since I get out of my classes at like 7pm and it's starting to get dark then
lemme see if I can find that mod rq
here it is
not sure if I wanna do this mod if I'm gonna save for a new printer anyways tho lol
yeah thats something i would have recommended.
man just the rails are like another $25 tho
lol. yeah.
thats also the reason i said go for the coupler first.
if that makes a difference you will at least know where the issue is.
right, right
and i recheck all the steps for x y and z
use the same formula you use for e-steps. just make the motion move 100 mm
anyways, do that. ill check with you tomorrow. im going to sleep.
oh jesus these all ship like dec 31, yeah I'll do amazon instead lol
aight tho, gnight
night.
oh sweet, I just got enough points on one of my data tracking rewards apps to get me $4 of any kinda gift card so I managed to get it on amazon for the same price I would've at ali lol
(the app's name is Mobile Performance Meter if you're interested, shit is an actual godsend)
it's like the exact type of shit people usually advertise as a scam but it's actually legit somehow
only downside is that it has a bit of an affect on your battery life
lemme see how much I've gotten from it
since january, about $70
Alright, just finished trying the coupler, it improved a tiny bit but it's still obvious
#3dprinting message
check this out.. this was fascinating.
and might be a partial reason for your layers.
interesting. I don't think I have the same problem as him, but based on his process of elimination, it does seems like an issue with my extruder
I'll try doing a vase cylinder to see if I get the same pattern as him though
Although, I do get spirals at the chimneys of my benchies...
Maybe it is the same issue
Do you have any recommendations for replacement extruders?
honestly. the good extruders are expensive. the question is if its worth it.
like, new printer expensive?