formal marsh
I'm going to attempt my first time actually making a foam LARP sword, using my custom design as a template [got it made by Purpleheart Armory]. I am curious though seeing the amount I have to cut off, and I want to know if I should just try for a longsword length handle [it's designed to be used in one or both hands]; and how far from the tip I need to be for a "stabbing" tip. Got a ton of EVA foam so it should be fairly easy either way.
verbal pantherBOT
GG @formal marsh, you just advanced to level 2!
eternal wing
Very cool design looks intimidating to say the least
formal marsh
Very cool design looks intimidating to say the least
Yeah was created for a character who was a master of all weapons [to the point he deemed it "unfair" to duel people with] and it was titled "Death of Dragons"
graceful robin
I'm going to attempt my first time actually making a foam LARP sword, using my c...
Generally speaking, something of this profile on this narrow of a core would be considered unsafe for stabbing. Most professionally-made latex stuff is sold not to intentionally stab with. And definitely cut the stake off to flatten the tip of the core, as it'll 100% poke through otherwise.
Most builds hover around 2 inches of foam at the tip, but this is largely also dependent on foam density, the overall surface area/profile of the tip itself, and the intensity it's planned for.
There's a high likelihood something built on a standard driveway stake--especially with mass like an axe head near the top--will fbe extremely whippy and flex too much to be considered safe, even for the length of an arming sword. It's a near-guarantee this core will not suffice for a longsword. I'd scour your local goodwill for carbon fiber or fiberglass gold club shafts for a one-hander.
3/8" fiberglass fence posts from Tractor Supply might work with a light-touch game, but they will also still be very whippy. I'm not a light-touch expert, though; my foamsmithing is all on the full-contact side of LARP/battlegames, and I know both of these are unsufficient for durability and beyond 34" overall length, flex, respectively. Driveway stakes are never compliant with our rules.
A core for something like what you want would likely be .524" or .602" FWET kitespar, available from Goodwinds, and is closer to what professional makers will likely use.
brisk spade
Totally new to making larp swords but Slivyr hit on some super important points. I know there are certain rules a larp will have for safety on the weapons. Its a good idea to get the rules from the larp you want to go to and check with them. Even contacting the event and showing them your design to see what you could do to make it usable in their event.
There are also a lot of grear vids out there on how to make your own larp weapons and they are worth checking out. Lots of good tips and little tricks in them.
Even if you dont end up making that for a larp it could be a fun project to have on the wall:)
outer flare
I may be late to this party, but I use .5" fiberglass rebar from Lowe's here in the USA for cores for longer weapons/weapons with mass. (I do Amtgard, so our safety regulartions are a little different than some others.) I make my details and bodies out of EVA, then contact areas out of blue camp pad from Ozark.
brisk spade
I may be late to this party, but I use .5" fiberglass rebar from Lowe's here in ...
Could you put in a link for thr Amtgard safety regs? Ive looked for them before but for the life of me havent found it.
outer flare
Absolutely! One moment
This is Easygard, which makes the rules easier to understand in a clearer format.
brisk spade
Absolutely! One moment
Thanks mate!
formal marsh
Very helpful and easy to understand, thanks
formal marsh
Btw this is the progress I made before stopping. Don't have a lot of options for levels but a router
