#First layer inconsistencies in Z-offset
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Yes. On both stock flexplate and on beacon contact mode on glass bed.
I am not 100% sure but I suspect my issue is from the nozzle not being clean. I didnt have this problem on idex. The non idex configuration doesn't use the idex wipers. Currently modifying the config so it uses them. Will report back if it fixes the issue.
it may probe the bed with a piece of filament with too much force, causing the true Z to not be correct is my theory
it smooshes it and does connect nozzle to plate, but the extra force means the nozzle is being pushed down more is my thinking
causing a flex upwards
then during print, true z is closer to bed than it should
I always clean nozzle before printing. Otherwise I am getting errors...
maybe that's not your issue then
I ended up from cold, calibrating beacon with bed 70C and soak of 15 minutes. Then started using idex wipers. Perfect first layers since
Maybe I should try to re-write everything from start..
the only "custom" part I did is the idex wipers. The heatsoak function takes one line to add to the config
do you heatsoak before starting the beacon calibration or let it do it automatically?
Do you have filament loaded when doing it? I unload filament, heat it up high so whatever is inside oozes out, then clean, then do beacon calibration
from cold, letting the heatsoak variable do it's thing
that should do it with perfect layers
If your nozzle is getting closer to the bed mid-print of a first layer test.
First thing is to confirm this happens regardless of where you print or where you start the print.
You especially want to check a print that starts the first layer near the middle of the bed and moves away vs near the edge moving towards the middle.
A flat sheet for first layer tests is best.
This can help determine the difference between thermal expansion issues of the frame and bed VS bed-meshing issues and frame squareness issues.
Another test you can run is to do a test print without the lid or front panel to minimize chamber temp.
Because of the design the bed doesn't really warp however the x-gantry does warp pretty bad especially if you have elevated chamber temps.
Many have upgraded their x gantry with the ti-tube which replaces the 20x20 aluminum extrusion. The reason is due to the difference in thermal expansion between the aluminum extrusion and the steel linear rail. As the printer heats up the aluminum expands more than the steel rail, and as a result the x gentry bows downward causing the nozzle to get too close to the bed over time. By replacing the extrusion with the ti tube, this problem is removed. You will no longer need to heat soak either. Ti tubes are available at toro3d or funssor lab.
I'm having the same issue and I have spent days trying to solve this issue. The print starts great, and after about 2 minutes or so, it starts to lower (I assume it starts right away, but becomes noticeable later) until the hotend starts to grind in to the bed.
I have tried heat soaking the chamber and with the door open. I have tried Z-offset calibration with a clean nozzle and not so clean. I have made dozens of bed mesh calibrations and tried cleaning them from printer config. It doesn't matter if the part is 250x250, or 500x500. It doesn't matter if the part starts from edge of bed and goes to the middle, or from the middle to the edge. I even tried switching slicers thinking maybe something is in the g-code.
Always the same story. Perfect perimeter and first couple of minutes, then the nightmare starts.
I looked at the z-motors and I noticed that they move the bed up little by little during the first layer. On second and third layer, they stop doing it and the print goes with no more issues (if I can get as far as third layer).
So PLEASE I need HELP!
Would suggest the TI-Tube to replace the aluminum extrusion, as billyd said the bimetallic effect between the stock aluminum tube and the linear rail causes it to bend closer to the bed in a lot of instances. Especially on the 400/500 sized printers
It's not the case.
The error is consistent.
I would agree with you if I would start with a cold printer and go from edge to center.
But the issue is the same if I go from center to edge.
Besides, it would have been visible on mesh.
if you heat soak for 30min with the hotend also warm (~150c or so), I think you may see it on the mesh.
This is a commonly reported issue, although yours may be different, I still believe it's highly likely. and when people replaced their X-axis with the TI-Tube it completely fixed it. I had the same on my 400, and that is how I fixed it
The error is consistent starting from cold printer to being soaked for 5 hours.