Inconsistent Flow on each print/ day

[noble light]

Again thank you 🙏

[bleak shore]

These are not post processed, test single cube first to see how it looks, if it looks bad I will post process it and then we compare again, if it looks good then I will post process the rest and we will continue testing

this will narrow down if it's slicer or post processor

if all look bad...

well

I'm leaning towards attempting removing the ptfe tube and trying direct feed one more time

after that...

we go nuclear

reflash and resetup

[hardy bane]

The bottom left is worse and the top right is good? If there is something loose it would have to be in front/rear direction then. (hold the nozzle and pull/push?).. The bottom left one looks like inconsistent extrusion really but only when toolhead is going in one direction.. Weird..

[noble light]

Just the top right looks good all others have gaps between the lines

[noble light]

So deactivate the post process agin ?

[hardy bane]

is this linespacing matching the top solid linewidth in slicer? or are you supposed to have 2x more lines here? indicating printer is placing a line more or less right on top of the previous line when alternating direction so that the plastic has nowere to go, nozzle pressure causes undulations/waves around the line etc..

[noble light]

Here should be one line too

[hardy bane]

yes, this looks like left going lines are 100% overlapping on the previous right going line in some areas since we can see the two narrow wavy lines on each side (plastic forced outside on each side of the previous line)

[noble light]

Yes but I don’t know if these (the red ones) are the move from left to right or from right to left

Here is the same printed part as before just a little bit clearer

[hardy bane]

The left vs right doesnt matter it was just an example. But you can not tune EM correctly with this going on.. i guess you could print a long narrow cube with only perimeters, so that all "fill" is going in the same direction as the top right cube when tuning flow/em,

[noble light]

Yes you are right till now this was like playing lotto at one moment it was good and the next it was bad but yeah I will test it

[hardy bane]

sounded like you were stumming around 90hz on Y belts and 80hz on lower belts? If this is a 500 size machine Then isn't that a very high belt tension? idk. i think mine plays around 75 on the lower belt and 60ish on the top belt, (i have a VC 3.1 500 hybrid)

if you have binding somewhere in the motion system it could get worse with high tension..

[noble light]

Yes normaly I have less tension I just tested this yesterday if it does anything

I will set the upper belts on 60Hz and the lower on 75 hz

[noble light]

Here I have 0,71

But it should be 0,84

(One line is 0.42)

I just had 40hz on the upper belts

[noble light]

Where have you measured the hz ? With the x gantry in the middle ? Or in the back ?

Is this normal ?

You have to watch with sound

[hardy bane]

I measure / compare tension with the gantry pushed to the back.

[noble light]

And then you have these values 😱 isn’t it way to much ?

[hardy bane]

maybee you have a belt that is rubbing on a bearing flange, if fame is not alligned then belt will often rise or lower depending on direction.

Yes i set my tension a bit too high myself as well, my gantry is a bit hard to push also, but at least it is the same in both directions. (i have hybrid so all 4 steppers rotate when i push the gantry back/forward. side to side it is a bit easier bc, then i am rotating just 2 steppers.)

If everything fails you have the option to go back to basics, (remove a toolhead to rebuild to corexy non-idex) with or without Y(hybrid) motors. But that is a serious job just to troubleshoot..

with idex it is harder to setup and tune, because you need to use the 2 y motors from the start i think.

[noble light]

Yes this a thing I will do if I have up haha then I will build it back

Okay

So After 4 top layers after the infill the gaps are back again

[noble light]

This was the 5. layer after infill

Just up and down which I just thought have no problems

[noble light]

Now I print your file thank you

[hardy bane]

Have you tried printing a cylinder in vase mode using same mm3/s flow. it does not show any extrusion problems there? Have you confirmed the extruder/hotend is not the issue by running a max flow test in orca using the same temperature?

[noble light]

Yes I reached a max flow of 25 and I am using 15 max flow

[noble light]

Not now

This was the Pa test tower from yesterday and the outer walls looks good

But yeah I will test It later with the cylinder and one wall

[hardy bane]

you can also go down to 10 flow cap in filament setting. just to remove as many variables as possible. and for simple testprints temperature can also be increased just to lower the viscosity / extrusion force. (it is difficult to know what the nozzle temperature really is as it is very depending on the heat transfer and proper assembled hotend)

[noble light]

Yes testet also with just 5 max but yeah I will test this again

[noble light]

Yes I can print the next prints with 255 degrees instead of 235

[hardy bane]

don' t trust the temperature in mainsail. I'm even struggling printing PLA under 230 degrees with rapido 2 plus using the uhf adapter and tungsten nozzle. and that is with 20mm3 flow limited.

[noble light]

Oh okay Crazy

[hardy bane]

maybee i should try to stick a termocouple down into the meltzone of my own rapido later today to see what is the temperature with my setup.. i just last week "upgraded" from rapido 1 HF plus to a rapido 2 UHF plus and have had only issuess. until i increased my temperatures a lot.

[noble light]

I also tested a dragon uhf hotend

But I will test other temperatures

[noble light]

What diameter have the nozzles ? I am thinking about to buy a pt1000 with a round mount so I can mount it between the nozzle and the uhf adapter just to measure the real temp

[hardy bane]

6mm

m6 threads

could use a m6 threaded sensor as well, just replace the nozzle with the sensor 🤔

[bleak shore]

Deactivate your post processor if the single cube looks bad, print again, if it still looks bad idk.

[noble light]

At the moment the 4 cubes are printing and if I come home later I will update you

[bleak shore]

How did single and double cube come out?

Or did you just go straight for 4 😁

[noble light]

Straight 4 😂

[bleak shore]

Understood lol

[noble light]

Because I left the home and I thought I can print the longest print while I’m gone

[noble light]

Now it is to much flow

How much did you set ?

[bleak shore]

Uhhhhh

0.89 but I can double check when I get home

This looks promising however

It's consistent

[noble light]

Don’t know 😄

[hardy bane]

there is a very consistent geometric pattern on these prints. could it also be the top fill that is sagging a bit the infill (gyroid?) due to high temp or too little cooling on the top layers ?

[bleak shore]

The infill is gyroid, so this is definitely likely

Temp 255, im not sure about fan. Maybe 35%

Again, gotta check what I sliced when I got home 😅

[hardy bane]

i looked at the file, it was just two top layers. I would be cool to see another attempt but with minimum 5 top layers.

bcause two top layers is in reality just a bridging flow layer + a single top layer

[bleak shore]

I'll slice and send in a few hours, not a bad idea 👍 just didnt wanna waste a bunch of filament and time

[noble light]

Perfect thank you

[noble light]

Until we find the problem, then the filament doesn’t matter

😂

[hardy bane]

You are using 0.4mm nozzle, right?

the gcodes i looked at was for 0.4

nevermind, is saw you confirme that the other day😋

[noble light]

Yes 😁👍

[hardy bane]

Haha my rapido 2 wasn't so wrong anyway. I set the temp to 220 and shoved a 0.8mm probe all the way down to the inside tip of the nozzle. (inside the molten plastic). it was actually super stable and only changed max 0.2degree over a minute.

[noble light]

That is really interesting, and do you start the fan ?

[hardy bane]

no, didnt think of that.. this was just to check if the temperature reported was correct.

[noble light]

Okay even with the max flow of 3 I got holes / gaps

Hmm maybe the motion system is not the problem because if I go down with the speed the result should be better even if i go down from 15 to 3 max flow 🤔

I also feed the filament by hand directly to the extruder here

[bleak shore]

There has to be something wrong with commanded values

We have verified correct X, Y, Z, and E travel

So the machine itself is moving the correct distance

Now is it being commanded the correct extrusion amount

Based how with my sliced files you get no gaps

Over-extrusion, sure, but not gaps

[noble light]

Maybe the overextension hides the gaps

I don’t think the slicer have the problem because I use it also for my prusas and bambulabs

[bleak shore]

ok here is 0.89 flow and 4 top wall

[noble light]

Thank you

[noble light]

It is still overextruded but still no gaps 🤔

Very very odd

[bleak shore]

would you like less flow?

[noble light]

Yes please maybe 2% less

And maybe just 50x50

so I can look at it before I go to bed haha

[noble light]

Thank you

[bleak shore]

this looks good and normal

other than maybe SLIGHT overextrusion

but your extrusion is consistent

[noble light]

Yes think so too

[bleak shore]

I know you said you use this on your bambu... but man it's looking like you just need prusaslicer with a default ratrig profile 😂

[noble light]

I just tried this 😂

[bleak shore]

If this next one works I'm just sending you my prusaslicer config file and never ever change anything on it ever

[noble light]

Oh hell yes

If this works

Im going crazy

[bleak shore]

ok if this single one works, final test is to print 4. because it's done gaps everytime you've done a long print

if the 4 print works... I'd say it's clear and any artifacts after that is just slicer tuning

[noble light]

Oh yeah

[noble light]

Still overextrusion maybe 2% more less

[bleak shore]

Can you tell a difference between this and the last one

like is flow working lol

[noble light]

I think yes but it is hard to tell but it is very odd normaly the flow between orca and Prusa should be the same

[noble light]

Looks way better can you now make 4 pieces please 😍🤯

[bleak shore]

0.85 flow. 25% infill, 4 cubes

[noble light]

Tank you

[bleak shore]

wait

previous had 2 top layers, this has 4

[bleak shore]

https://tenor.com/view/tank-you-thanks-thx-tank-gif-11214867188794065854

[noble light]

And this one is with 85 flow or ?

[bleak shore]

yessir

[noble light]

Perfect

[noble light]

So I think we have to less top layers because of the longer layertime I think the cooling goes down for the overhang / first layer after infill

[bleak shore]

Maybe I accidentally uploaded the 2 layer one again... 🙄 This can also be solved by dropping the temp, or increasing fan speed.

I'll send you the config file. Looks like it's a consistent extrusion and things are coming out well

[noble light]

Yes but I don’t want to change any values

[noble light]

I just want to see if it can be printed without the gaps

If we prove that it works then I will start to change the values

[bleak shore]

There's no gaps in the one above?

[noble light]

Don’t see one but not clear because of the uneven top layer

[bleak shore]

Hm

Ok I send one with 4 top layers

[noble light]

Thank you 🙏

[bleak shore]

I'll also drop the temp and up fan a wee bit

[noble light]

Thank you

[noble light]

So … gaps again
You changed anything in the settings or ?

[bleak shore]

Hmm

I changed temp and fan speed

That may be causing under extrusion

[bleak shore]

Oh very minor gaps

[noble light]

But not on all of these 4

[bleak shore]

I strongly feel like your problem lies in temp/fan/flow rate

I wont be near my computer until sunday but I can maybe manually adjust the hcode for you to do again

[noble light]

Okay at the moment I will test with orca slicer again but other fan speed and temp

Do you know which settings you are used before ?

[bleak shore]

Before was 15% fan and 255 temp

0.85 flow

25% infill

4 top 2 bottom

2 walls

Alternatively

You can print my gcode again, and when the fan turns on, go into RATOS and turn the fan off and the temp up to 255 and that should be permanent

[noble light]

Yes at the moment I try orca with 10% fan and 255 degrees

[noble light]

Okay the Prusa slicer can not be the solution

Because I now tested Prusa slicer with standard settings (also 15% fan and 255 temp and 0.85 flow)

I only set the top layer to 6 and after the 4th layer (top layer) the gaps come back again

[bleak shore]

I disagree

BUT

buuuuuttttt

[noble light]

😱

What comes now

Haha

[bleak shore]

You said it does after 4 layers

6 is kinda crazy

[noble light]

Yes

[bleak shore]

Though it should work with 6

I really think that's excessive

[noble light]

What do you mean

[bleak shore]

I think it just means you need to run 4 top layers 😂

[noble light]

😂

[bleak shore]

If you need more strength, more walls, or more infill

[noble light]

But this can’t be the solution 😂😂

[bleak shore]

But 6, may be preventing excess filament from expanding into the infill like you explained before

100% infill has always caused issues

And doing 6 solid top layers is similar

[noble light]

Yes but why I mean this isn’t normal

[bleak shore]

Hmm

Ok one more test

60% fan

[noble light]

Tonight u will print a print with minimum speed so acc to 200 for all max flow 1 and jerk 0,5 for all

[bleak shore]

Oh

[noble light]

Yes I am testing at the moment 80%

[bleak shore]

Ahh ok

Because im thinking it could be partly dumping so much heat into the top layers

[noble light]

So I can say if its the mechanical or not because if it prints so fucking slowly it should look waaay better

[noble light]

Yes maybe

In 10 min we knew mor

More

[bleak shore]

KNOWLEDGE JULIAN KNOWLEDGE

[noble light]

Okay the first test looks great

[noble light]

Just look in the middle the other is warping 😂

[bleak shore]

I think we are on to something

[noble light]

Yes I think / hope too

I should go to sleep haha but I can’t

😂

[bleak shore]

maybe 50% fan?

No sleep, must science

(but go to bed if you need lmao)

[noble light]

I test now less temperature (225) and 60% fan

[bleak shore]

👁️👄👁️

[noble light]

Really odd

[bleak shore]

Temp is significant drop but im here for it

[noble light]

Less temperature and Moore fan looks now like overextending

Overextruding

[bleak shore]

That is odd. Still at 0.85 flow?

[noble light]

But we will see the result in a few minutes

[noble light]

Ah I see I used the false flow

[noble light]

I think we come closer

Little Little gaps

[bleak shore]

Slightly higher temp

Or more flow

But you're nailing it

If it's not curling the fan speed is good

[noble light]

What do you mean with curling ?

[bleak shore]

Warping :)

[noble light]

Ah okay

So

This was with 225 and 60 % fan speed

[bleak shore]

More temp

You went more down

Less temp = less flow

More temp more flow

Compromise: 240c

This looks good though

Especially with ABS

225c is a little on the cold end

Especially when you're trying to push around 30mm^3/s

But even on standard/older printers

250c is the average

[noble light]

Okay now I print with 240 but I go to bed and write tomorrow morning

I have 3 pieces

One very fast
One very slow
And one normal

[bleak shore]

Look forward to it! Nice work, making progress again :)

[noble light]

Thank you vor your help
I hope so 🤞 (what I think is … maybe the rapido 2 UHF needs more speed for the printing so maybe without the UHF it is better because also the dragon hotend I tested have the UHF and to compromise the UHF I need less temperature and more fan … but just a thought) and now good night I will update you tomorrow

And thank you again 👍

[noble light]

Hello again… so not what we thought …

This was very very slow (50mm/s speed for everything and 1 jerk for everything and 500mm/s)
And it looks perfect … this is the result I want

This was fast (5000mm/s)

Looks okay also without gaps

And here is the „normal“ I am printing with every time this one have gaps again

At the moment I print these again just with the change that it prints by object and not by layer

[noble light]

Another interesting thing is that also the parts from Ratrig have this problem …

This is the plate between the x and y Motor just saw this last week while I am rebuilding the xy cube

[bleak shore]

I wouldn't worry too much about ratrigs parts

I think however, we're changing a little too many variables at once to get good conclusions

(at least im getting confused now lol)

[bleak shore]

Lets do this:
normal speed
240c
60% fan
0.9 flow

Now the surface quality is good on this

With minor gaps

These gaps are classic underextrusion

So we bump the flow a little bit back up from before

I wanna reiterate though that I think we are proving this is not a printer issue (as your printer has followed commanded values exactly).

We are simply just at a difficult filament tuning stage

And ABS is not the easiest to print with

[noble light]

Yes if I know this for sure than I am a little bit happier because then I have a direction where too look at

Do you have any idea how I can test if the printer is good

[noble light]

Will test this later if I got home

[noble light]

Yes at my Bambu and Prusa I don’t have problems with abs so I thought it is as easy as on these machines

[bleak shore]

You already have.

You have tested:
Dimensional accuracy ✅
Extrusion accuracy ✅

Which are the 2 things important to a printer. You havent had any errors, this is genuinely just filament tuning.

[bleak shore]

True but the bambu is self tuning and the prusa is slower... Different beasts!

[noble light]

At the moment I print these settings but with the same flow because the print I did today (object by object) was perfect
I just speed up a little bit the walls and something

We will see in 8 min 😁

So this was the result of the normal speed from the object by object thing

And this is same temp same fan but just a little bit faster in the settings

Now I try the exact same with 260 degrees

Same settings just 260 degrees

[noble light]

Soooo

240 degrees 1% more flow 60% fan

And I have a usable result

Maybe 1% more flow and then

I will start the big test over night 😂

Fingers crossed

[noble light]

I don’t know why but the 5th top layer looks perfect and the 6th have gaps

I changed the Acceleration for the toppest layer to 3000 like the 5th layer in the hope it looks the same but no I got more gaps then before 😂👍

And I also set 1% more flow

But yeah more gaps

[bleak shore]

What happened between this test

[bleak shore]

And this

[noble light]

I only changed the acc of the top layer to the same value as the massive infill acc

[noble light]

So this one was again with the same acc as massive infill but I change the line with to 0.4 for the top layer instead of 0,42

I can’t explain this to me why does the fan changes this result

[noble light]

Okay don’t think we have it

I printed these with the same settings as this one

The walls are good so I think we can really say that the mechanic of the printer is good

I mean the layertime is much longer on these prints

[bleak shore]

I agree, I think the mechanics are good

(also you look very close on your first layer, this wont affect top tho lol)

[noble light]

Yes the first layer is rubbish at the moment but I want at first to get the top layer good and as you say this affect not the top so yeah

I think I will give it a try to reset the complete firmware

[bleak shore]

Hmm

Couldnt hurt

Also top layer should be 0.45 not 0.42/0.4?

Or am I mistaken?

[noble light]

As I know 0.4 is the best because we also have a 0.4 mm nozzle the other values are possible too but the best should be 0.4 is what I know

[bleak shore]

This.... This may be something

Look what I found on this CNC kitchen video

From most of what I've seen, (including default settings) 120-150% is common for extrusion width.

https://youtu.be/9YaJ0wSKKHA

Watch if you feel so inclined :)

Could we try this:
240c
60% fan
0.9 flow
2 walls
6 top layers
Line width for ALL layers 0.45

[noble light]

I will try this later

Thanks for this 👍

[noble light]

Now I am printing different models

• 0.48 layer lines
• 0.45 layer lines
  -0.42 layer lines
• 0.4 layer lines

[arctic flicker]

I have a similar issue: https://discord.com/channels/582187371529764864/1315555504558182410

but not yet found a solution. I suspect it is related to the mesh (although I have only .15 deviation) as this usually only ocures >7mm in z

[noble light]

Yes looks like the same

To exclude this, an object must have at least 1 layer infill then it is not mesh related

[noble light]

I am printing 50x50x2,3mm cubes to test this

[arctic flicker]

the prints have all multiple layers of infill

[noble light]

Then it have nothing to do with the mesh

[arctic flicker]

my though is atm that there is maybe some sort of either phase out of the mesh or maybe bi-metal effect after certain z

[noble light]

I don’t think so because I got perfect first layers and also I have an titanium tube

And also I got perfect 1 layers oder 400x400

But the top is trash

[arctic flicker]

that is interesting

is it just the top layer or also top -1?

on mine top-1 is perfect and top shit

[noble light]

I bring now my child to bed and then I will write again and start testprints again

[bleak shore]

Sweet, would love to see the results! Thanks :)

[noble light]

So

[noble light]

Yes top -1 looks good but sometimes I see just a little gap but I would say 90% the top -1 looks good

[arctic flicker]

And if you reduce the thickness to I.e 5mm the top surface is not overextended?

[noble light]

What do you mean ? Sorry don’t understand

[arctic flicker]

In my case I observe the overextrusion pattern usually if z > 7mm

[noble light]

No these prints are just 3.4mm height

[arctic flicker]

RR tech support claims this is warping but for me I can exclude that

[noble light]

Yes this is not warping 100% not

[arctic flicker]

Prusaslicer 2.9?

Your orbiter filament path is aligned I guess?

[noble light]

I use orca slicer and Prusa tested both

[noble light]

Oh yes tested multiple times haha

[arctic flicker]

Very interesting that we have different setups but experience the same

[noble light]

Oh yes what machine do you have

[arctic flicker]

2x 400 VC4 idex

Both have the issue

[noble light]

But sorry to say but I am happy I am not alone haha

Hmm okay

[arctic flicker]

But no ti tube

[noble light]

Hmm have you already re installed the firmware ?

[arctic flicker]

No just updated to current

[noble light]

Okay

I will try it now

I can’t flash the board 🤔 it says it falsh the board but then it is again on the false firmware

At first I will go on

[noble light]

So with everything default just the flow of the Ratrig abs profile to 0.93 (which I used in orca before)

Minimalistic gaps

Now I make IS and put the fan to 30-50%

[noble light]

Okay it gets worse

Now I just try the settings from Bambu

Tomorrow I will see the result

[noble light]

Can you print 50x50x2,3mm cubes so we can see how does these look

[bleak shore]

Does this have pressure advance or no?

[arctic flicker]

These are 100x100x2,9 that look great - just a bit too much overlap

Yesterday exactly same settings but 8.8mm height of top layer and no warping at all - was perfectly flat on bed

Today same settings and part just 6.8mm height of top layer and moved it 2cm to the back as the bed mesh (.15deviation in total) has on the front the high point. Cannot show this one better as it is still printing. Top layer is perfect

This is why I say ai have absolutely no clue 😂

For my two VC4s I can tell it is somehow correlated to height of the top solid infill layer and maybe to positioning of the part

But I am far away of narrowing down the cause

BTW all PLA

[noble light]

@helge yes

[noble light]

Ah okay then I think you have a different problem

[arctic flicker]

Another part same settings but random underextrusion in one corner (also no warping)

Yes could be. Anyway, I‘ll follow this thread. Sorry that I am not really a help

[noble light]

Yes but my problem is not in one corner my problem is random in the mid of a print and just gaps not completely underextrusion

[noble light]

No problem we are here to write and look if we can help each other 👍

[arctic flicker]

Do you have the same experience with a different material/brand and if it is idex also with T1?

[noble light]

Yes tested Petg and ASA and tool 1 also

[arctic flicker]

And same gcode on different printer comes out perfect?

[noble light]

Don’t know

Don’t find anyone who can print it for me 😂

[arctic flicker]

And with slightly adjusted settings on another brand?

You can send it to me I can print it

But the other one is really misaligned 😁

But please PLA settings

[noble light]

Okay I will make later one with pla and send it to you

Thank you very much this shows 100% if it is printer related or software

[noble light]

This was the settings from Bambu and till now no gaps I will print now the longer print which always have this problem 🤞

[noble light]

I think despite all this that the problem is mechanical because it is so irregular. And if I print very slowly it’s gone.

Possibly the belt tension is not correct or the motors have a problem

After the tests with pla later I think I would go back to hybrid and try then

[noble light]

Okay now I have a print with pla with the same result

Don’t look at the edge I had a too high travel speed and that’s why I have a few layer offset

This is 1h and 16 minutes

43g of filament

Can you print this ?

Please

[swift chasm]

There is a "phase out" from the mesh. Its referred to as fade_start and fade_end

[bed_mesh]
horizontal_move_z: 2
mesh_min: 30,30
mesh_max:470,450
probe_count: 40,40
fade_start: 1.0
fade_end: 10.0
mesh_pps: 2,2
algorithm: bicubic
bicubic_tension: .2

[noble light]

What is the difference between relative extrusion on and off ?

Back to hybrid

[noble light]

Oh fuck yes it looks very very good

Now I start the print which always fails 😂

[arctic flicker]

What was the result?

[noble light]

I print now with 1% less flow

But looks really good I think

This was with 94% and the other (the picture before) was 97% now I print with 96%

And I got a huge better speed

[arctic flicker]

100% fan this thing is screaming 😂

[noble light]

You have the wholes too 🤔

That is exactly my error

[arctic flicker]

And on hybrid gone?

[noble light]

At the moment the last test is printing

Is ready in about 1 hour

[noble light]

So this is the result not as good as my bambu but usable

But yeah it is not as good as my bambu or xl

[arctic flicker]

Can you send me the stl?

[noble light]

Yes of course

I will send you later

[noble light]

Till now I got good results maybe just a settings thing now for the top layer but yeah I can use this machine for orders finally. 🤞

And my IS is MzV and ZV so yeah I think I don’t will go back to Idex for a time 😁

[noble light]

Next successful print
Now I print 10 of these in one print

[noble light]

Think its really working now 🥰

[soft stream]

beautiful prints!

[noble light]

So the final test if this prints without an error then I would say it is solved

But if I go back to Idex I don’t know if it comes back 😩🤔

[noble light]

So perfect print

I think I can say I can finally use this machine and love it

[hardy bane]

Nice i also am going to print the Chonk parts as well soon. But the big parts are scary. What material u used? Did it end up without warp?

[noble light]

This one was ABS but it was just to test the printer the real part I will use, I will print out of PC Fibr20 or ASA CF15

[hardy bane]

Amazing to print this big in ABS wihout warp. When you slice the big bottom plate with some sort of CF filament, doses the slicer calcualte less than 1kg will be used? when i sliced for PET-CF, 25% gyroid and 4 walls it came out scary close to 1kg. dont remember bu tit was like 996g or something. What are the strength settings you use or recommend?

[noble light]

Yeah you are right with PC Fibr20 I need 1051g so I need a spoolchange 😩 or I just glue the end with the new roll together with the sunlu tool

[noble light]

Yes I am using the same 25% infill gyroid and 4 walls

[hardy bane]

most exiting filament change after emptying a whole expensive roll on a part. Be carefull with the splicer method on such brittle filament, the splice might snap in bowden before it even reaches the hotend. Perhaps better is to stay close and monitor the filament transition, then you could just push the next filament behind the other until it is grabbed by the extrudergears.

[noble light]

Ah yes this is also a method 😁👍

[noble light]

Okay I print it out of ASA CF because I have 2,5kg rolls 😁

[noble light]

How is your printer working ? Do you found anything ?

[karmic cloud]

So what was the problem in the end?

[noble light]

I don’t know
After Build it back to one head it works perfectly
I don’t change anything else