glossy carbon
i'm back 😦
when i try to Z home from klipper, the front left stepper goes downwards, while the right and rear goes upwards. If i dont emergency stop on time, the bed will fall off from the tilt angle. You'd think it's a motor with reversed wiring but when i select x and y homing, the bed will lower an inch with no problems. All 3 motors go down the same amount. Any suggestions?
vcore 3 - 500
stock steppers from ratrig
btt skr pro 1.2
bltouch
klippers and mainsail
thanks
timber epochBOT
vague umbra
What happens when you select to home all axis at once?
glossy carbon
it does the x first, then y, then z. not all at once. same issue when it gets to Z homing though.
calm ember
Upload your printer.cfg
vague umbra
I think they uploaded it in the Unable to read tmc uart thread a bit ago, not sure if it's changed since then
about to board my flight, so can't review it right now.
vague umbra
Have you tried inverting (!) one of the z configs? I know you indicate that the step back for x and y has them all operating in the same direction, but your config looks right based on my quick look on my phone.
glossy carbon
i thought about it, maybe i can test it by doing the Z1 only as that is the stepper having the issue
calm ember
Can't open zip files on mobile
glossy carbon
so i played around with adding ! to the motors, funny enough for a couple of the tests, even with the ! the motor still went the same direction. one thing i noticed is that the z homing will do the same 1 inch drop as the x and y, then proceed to drop on the same left motor again. is it a z homing issue that is tied to the bl touch? i haven't done anything to set up the bl touch yet other than removing # to include it. and setting the height in regards to the nozzle height. Actually i dont think i can do much without finishing the homing anyways.
eternal bough
zip are annoying for text files anyways
glossy carbon
when i downloaded from klipper/moonsail, it zipped it. i left as is. i can unzip and repost.
eternal bough
oh weird, I don't remember mine doing that. No worries
calm ember
so i played around with adding ! to the motors, funny enough for a couple of the...
Did you restart klipper after making changes to the printer.cfg?
glossy carbon
every time i had to hit emergency stop before the bed would fall off. lol
vague umbra
You have your Z motors connected to Z, E1, and E2, right?
I think I found your problem
here are the pins for the motors:
here's the config from the RatOS filesystem:
the port label Z on the board has a step pin of PE13, but that's assigned to the extruder in the config
so, based on the config, your Z motors should be connected to E0, E1, and E2, but looking at your pictures from the other thread #1197715556149776505, it looks like you're wired to Z, E1, and E2
glossy carbon
ok let me check.
calm ember
every time i had to hit emergency stop before the bed would fall off. lol
Make a change to printer.cfg, restart klipper, then test. If you make a change to printer.cfg and just test right away it won't have your new settings
vague umbra
can you confirm which physical ports you have the z motors connected to?
glossy carbon
want me to take a picture of the board and connections?
It's a spider web of connections
vague umbra
they appear correct from what I can decipher of those pictures
glossy carbon
i wishi there was a way to move each z stepper individually via moonsail
vague umbra
there is
glossy carbon
i'm new to moonsail. octopi on old cr 10s
vague umbra
glossy carbon
thanks. let me check that out
glossy carbon
Was able to move all 3 z's down using the same code 3 times which means they're all going same direction which is good
glossy carbon
Update. I got z to home and stop by manually raising the left z a little higher than others til bl touch did a couple of pokes to the bed. Then I did up arrow to move bed down and they all went down, but when I did down arrow to raise the bed, the rear and right went up but front left still went down. I'm going cuckoo. It shouldn't be this hard. Lol
eternal bough
Do they ever move up in unison? I wonder if your dir pin is shorted or disconnected
glossy carbon
i think only down.
but the weird part is at very most an up command should have it not do anything.
i'm going to swap left and right cables at the board. see if the same action switches, or if it's a stepper or cable issue
eternal bough
yep, thats a good troubleshooting step
glossy carbon
Ok so switching them also switched the behavior meaning it's not the cable or stepper. Ugh
glossy carbon
i posted in klippers discord, but i'll put it here as well. i did a stepper buzz on all 3 z steppers, and the problem didn't go up and down, only down down, while the other 2 did down up.
eternal bough
if the direction pin is stuck on (or off) then every move will go in the same direction
glossy carbon
how do i fix that? i have changed the left and right stepper wires on the board, and the problem followed to the other stepper, so it's something at the board or software
eternal bough
I think the fix would be to replace the board. Not sure how to confirm that thats the issue, would have to have some way to set the pin then use a multimeter, change the output and see if the pin voltage changes.
Could maybe grab a small magnifier and see if there is anything on either side of the board near that pin or the traces leading to it
glossy carbon
ok thanks. let me think this one through
glossy carbon
great news, guess what, another bad stepper driver. i did a swap and i found a good one. buzz worked. now i have to figure out why i x and y go diagonally when i move them. time for more troubleshooting. 😦
eternal bough
dubious yay 😄
if they go diagonally, maybe that means it isn't set up as corexy, but cartesian?
glossy carbon
not sure, vcore is called up, so i'd assume it knows corexy?
eternal bough
actually, that may make sense. To move in "x" both x and y steppers have to move
but if you're testing the 'x' motor then maybe it just moves that stepper
glossy carbon
once i hom x and y, then i use moonsail and the arrows, but left and right move diagonally, same with front and back
hoary hatch
good rough guide to follow, but yeah , cartesian would make it diagonals.
https://docs.vorondesign.com/build/startup/#motor-configuration-guides
make sure your config contains this in your printer definition:
[printer]
kinematics: corexy
the ratos setup for vcore3 already has this. if it is moving diagonally it is because only one motor is moving
just getting to looking at your printer.cfg now because of it being a zip. I see
[MCU]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Klipper_stm32f407xx_320017001247313335343635-if00
why do you have this?
this suggests to me that you didn't use the configurator to flash your board and that is probably why you are having some issues
hoary hatch
oh sorry - i just was pointing him to the "if you need to reverse etc" also making sure it was set to corexy
hoary hatch
the ratos setup for vcore3 already has this. if it is moving diagonally it is be...
@glossy carbon i think this was for you
hoary hatch
the ratos setup for vcore3 already has this. if it is moving diagonally it is be...
oh sorry - i gotcha - it is in the v-core-3.cfg
glossy carbon
the ratos setup for vcore3 already has this. if it is moving diagonally it is be...
i had that there from my first attempt at following a youtube guide. then i did ratos, and it was missing, so i added it thinking i needed it there. i can # it out
hoary hatch
@glossy carbon when it moves diagonally - does it only move in one diagonal?
or does it move in both?
(sorry just had a thought maybe another motor driver went bad)
glossy carbon
now after tightening belts, it's almost fixed.
hoary hatch
nice
glossy carbon
but x is a bit finicky with movement doing diagnoal in tiny increments. i'll have to do the resonamce test to get tension proper, then see the outcome
it's not the smoothest x movement. add the cable track i installed that adds some friction, but i'll see the outcome after resonance
hoary hatch
use a hertz meter is my recommendation (though i dont know the tightness you need for a ratrig, i typically tune them per machine), make sure the belts are routed and not binding somewhere on the frame etc.
simple phone app can help
though i havent gotten to that part in the build yet, 500 is sitting while i have a sinus infection =/ lol
glossy carbon
its not binding. i'll be downloading the phone app and following another persons instructions posted on here
hoary hatch
sounds good 🙂
glossy carbon
though i havent gotten to that part in the build yet, 500 is sitting while i hav...
doh
i've had an adventure getting this thing set up. the homing is all thrown off, but obviously xy movement needs fixing before i can work on the head getting full bed movement
hoary hatch
yeah, the link i have up there is about the a/b motors and if it moves which to flip, but then again i have built too many core-xy machines
and apparently i have been sacrilegious to every project =/ (like my ratrig will be using canbus... lol
glossy carbon
my mistakes have consequently given me a lot of klipper cfg and troubleshooting experience. but i dont want to build another xy anytime soon. lol
glossy carbon
i'd love to eventually go with a multihead set up.
hoary hatch
then again i am a software engineer and klipper is much more - engineery
hoary hatch
i'd love to eventually go with a multihead set up.
oh the pains that will bring 🙂
glossy carbon
you're way ahead of me. i did programming almost 20 years ago in school and then went into an unrelated it field as a career. lol i can't even do hello world anymore
hoary hatch
i mean they are fine, but there is a whole thing about z distance etc,
glossy carbon
i think by the time i get to it ( couple years ) more people will have figured it out, and new products will be available
hoary hatch
unless you need mirror/duplication mode, toolchangers i think are the way of the "future" though they have their own issues, but they are much easier to deal with the finicky nature.
that or the MMU style units if you only need to change filament/types
glossy carbon
yeah, sorry, by multihead, i meant tool changing
3 or 4 revo hemeras would look awesome. lol
hoary hatch
ahh, gotcha, yeah there are a couple projects out there on those but much further "off the beaten path"
glossy carbon
and no wasted filament like the bambo's dirty little secret to those nice looking prints
hoary hatch
i mean, any mmu will be like that, and even tool changers will need purge/extra filament
just less so than bambu etc
glossy carbon
if i was to do a 3 or 4 colour design, the purges will be minimal i'd assume. no old filament to purge to clean out the nozzle. only a purge to make sure nozzle has filiment in it and ready to go