Resonance and Belt Tension Graphs.
#Help. Been tuning for months and still struggling.
waxen acorn
SHAPER_CALIBRATE has finished and these are the results. I am doing SAVE_CONFIG to ensure that the input shaper is saved.
waxen acorn
Just to show, this is in the printer cfg now
waxen acorn
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=extruder TARGET=230
PID_CALIBRATE HEATER=heater_bed TARGET=80
Did these to PID tune the bed and the extruder. SAVE_CONFIG has been applied.
Printing a temp tower right now with these settings.
I do want to note that a bed mesh is done before each print. After getting the correct temp and the flow, I will want to tune the Z-offset, as I have had some concerns with that. The ratos mesh did load, which is good. That is the mesh that was made before the print started.
blacksmithforlife recommended putting tape on the z axis to ensure the bed mesh was working properly. I will do that for the z-offset tests.
waxen acorn
Despite input shaper I still have wrinkles, ghosting, etc. Corners can be helped by Pressure Advance.
I do not know which temperature to select.
lunar pollen
For PETG with fast printers (like the Ratrig) you want higher temps in general, 245-260. Anything under ~230 will give bad layer adhesion. Make sure you have dried the spool properly, PETG will string and ooze if not dry.
waxen acorn
For PETG with fast printers (like the Ratrig) you want higher temps in general, ...
With the diamond back nozzle, it will lower the print temp.
waxen acorn
For PETG with fast printers (like the Ratrig) you want higher temps in general, ...
I can do another higher but the thermal conductivity of the diamondback lowers the temp.
Is anyone able to look at my temp tower pictures and recommend a temp?
lunar pollen
Yes, every temperature of the tower is too low.
waxen acorn
Brand new roll of filament, 250-230.
Still has ghosting, despite input shaper, wrinkles on surface, stringing.
waxen acorn
Yes, every temperature of the tower is too low.
The recommendation filament range is 230-250 so I just did that temp tower
lunar pollen
Not enough cooling, increase cooling. Also, brandnew doesn't mean dry. I'd dry it.
Regarding the ghosting: That's a different topic I'd say, maybe make another thread with input shaper and belt tension graphs etc.
waxen acorn
Not enough cooling, increase cooling. Also, brandnew doesn't mean dry. I'd dry i...
Do you recommend a dryer? I don’t own one. I will increase cooling to 100% and run it again.
Here is the cooling I will run the temp tower at again.
waxen acorn
Here you go, 100% cooling.
waxen acorn
Anyone able to give a recommendation?
thorny warren
Was the flow rate calibrated? Did you verify these results with a different slicer? (e.g. Prusa / Cura)
waxen acorn
Was the flow rate calibrated? Did you verify these results with a different slic...
Planning on doing flow next. I can download a different slicer and run the temp tower.
thorny warren
Here's an easy temp tower file for prusa slicer: https://www.printables.com/model/72863-relative-temperature-bridging-tower-adjustable-lay
for flow rate, just print a 2-walled empty cube and measure the walls with a caliper or something.
if you find you have to adjust your flow rate more than 5% (e.g. 95% or 105%) you should look at your extruder steps
waxen acorn
Will do. When it comes to e-steps, I asked about e-steps in this group a month ago, I was told that I should do that by miklschmidt and that I should tune it another way. But let me do that test first and then we will see!
Thank you Steef, I really appreciate you helping out
thorny warren
The idea is that if you have to compensate flow too much, then probably the extruder step configuration is wrong (or your hot-end cannot melt plastic fast enough)
since you have issues on all temperatures, it may be that you are actually constantly over-extruding
so that's why, let's check the flow 🙂
