#Soldering help cinebot30 analog vrs

39 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

sand igloo
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So I thought I could handle this soldering job with ease, attempted to unsolder old motors to replace with new ones. I had some solder bleed onto the connections the these black squares (mossfets maybe) and I cannot get the solder back off the connections now. Any chance of repairing this? Or advice in doing so? I'm sick to my stomach as this is a $110 board. I already know I'm an idiot for trying this lol.

frozen jewel
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@sand igloo

  1. the solder that you're using looks like crap. Flux might save it.
  2. The connections on the mosfets that are next to the pads are (usually) connected directly to the pads, so shorting them doesn't hurt anything
glad pasture
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what does the lettering on the mosfets say?

frozen jewel
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I just hope that you haven't melted any of the mosfets 😄

sand igloo
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I thought the same, this is all solder that came on the board haven't added any yet I'm assuming they used unleaded just because of how hard it is to melt. Haven't melted the mosfetts yet, If I could go back I would have just snipped the motor connections somewhere in the middle and soldered onto those. This is the side of the hobby they don't tell you about In the flippy floppy videos lol

frozen jewel
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you need to get different solder and replace it, otherwise you'll never get this done properly

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you can dilute the crap solder with good solder to good effect usually

sand igloo
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Text on the mosfetts looks like the first line 02nl - rp10

frozen jewel
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btw.. you can use a multimeter and continuity test on the ones that you haven't shorted out to verify that that's how it's connected 😄

sand igloo
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I haven't added any of my solder yet, it seems to work well every time I have used it. My main concern is removing the crap solde at the moment. I have a Multimeter just never used it the way you're referring to before.

glad pasture
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if you manage to get the solder flowing you should be able to wick it up and unshort them anyway

sand igloo
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Fingers crossed 🤞 🙂 this is quite nerve-wracking lol.

frozen jewel
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adding solder is the solution to these problems quite often

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two reasons:
diluting the stock solder
adding flux (rosin core)

sand igloo
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Gotcha, for now I'm gonna try to test the resistance on one of the mossfets I haven't covered with solder. How do i go about this? Just any of the mosfett connections for one probe and the motor solder pad next to it with the other probe?

frozen jewel
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this is how the mosfet is wired out

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If the mosfet is pointing to the pad with the D side, then it's all the same

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if it's the S/G side, then that's an issue

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I want you to test the outer two ones as that'll let you find G/S if that's the case

sand igloo
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I wasn't able to get my probes in and test the outer pins that were facing the solder pad but I tested all the ones on the side facing away from The solder pad those readings were 20,94 for the first pin and 10 something for the rest. So this confirms the D side is the one facing the solder pad (I think). So just solder the wires on and stop being paranoid about the solder on the d side? Lol

frozen jewel
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the D side is all connected together

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so it's fine

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but you really need to address the solder quality

sand igloo
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This Is the solder I use, I haven't added any to this yet though. It looked almost perfect before I started trying to remove their solder.

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Not really sure what you mean by adress the solder quality.

frozen jewel
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I get that you haven't added any, you've said it plenty enough 😄

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The solder that's currently on the AIO is of crap quality, at least for general purpose use.

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so you need to somehow uncrapify it, to be able to solder the new wires properly

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lots of people would just try to solder their wires to the current crap solder that's on the pads

sand igloo
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I'm gonna get as much of their solder off as I can and then tin with my solder and get the motor cables soldered to the board. That's the best I can think of to uncrapify it lol.

frozen jewel
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I'd recommend mixing your solder in with theirs

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before trying to remove it

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diluting the crappy unleaded solder (it's not crappy beacuse it's unleaded, it's a separate issue) with lead
will help you get it off

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you won't need to use a crazy temperature on your iron this way

sand igloo
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Got it, thank you so much for all the info gg. And the solder could be bridging between all the D connections and the pad without issue? Obviously I'd prefer to avoid this but that's gonna have to be the case for a couple of these connections.

frozen jewel
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as you can see in the picture, the D connections are all internally bridged anyway

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so are the S connections actually, but there is the G next to them which I was slightly worried about