Hi, i'm having trouble fixing the osd on my googles (my video transmitter is tbs unify pro 5.8 SMA)
When i go on betaflight it tells me that the osd is activated but the goggles show me no osd i thought initially it was a problem of positionning the information in betaflightbut that did not work.
Thank for i hope your answers.
(Sorry for the text in french in betaflight)
#No osd showing up on goggles
463 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
How is the vtx wired up?
it is connected only to the batttery
Well
Yeah that's probably it
You kinda need to have the vtx connected to the fc to get osd
yeah i thinks that is it i just need to figure out where to connect it on my fc
What vtx and what fc?
ther is indeed 2 cabes that i didn't connect
a clear picture of your current wiring would be useful
okay so
first things first
that receiver wiring
needs to be redone
the FC side connection especially
yeah it is and the reciever antenna is falling apart
moving on
the camera is completely bypassing the FC, so there is no way for the FC to add OSD
I wonder where your VTX is even getting power from
but that's a side issue
directly from the battery
what wiring diagram did you follow? This is not how you'd normally wire this
for the vtx ?
for the FC to VTX connection
I was gonna draw smth but then found no usable image of the unify pro pinout
oh i can send you it
VTX to FC:
7-26V to 9V
GND to GND
5V Out to [nowhere or camera power input]
GND to [nowhere or camera ground]
Video to VID
Audio to nowhere
Data to TX3
all of the pads needed by the VTX are next to the FC USB
i should do to the fc instead of the battery?
makes it less likely for a voltage spike to kill the VTX
Camera to FC:
Power input (5-whatever V) to [FC 5V or VTX 5V Out]
GND to [FC GND or VTX GND]
Video to CAM
make sure that you get your wiring verified before you power it up
but the vtx supports directly the camera is it better ?
No difference unless the 5v in the fc is overloaded
eh
VTX 5V output tends to give cleaner video
but if your wiring sucks, you might end up with unreliable OSD
btw
duct tape is not a replacement for electrical tape or heatshrink
yeah that should be better
I
also i got this reciever but it's tearing apart
should i change them whith this$
I'm a bit sad that you didn't ask about what radio system to buy before buying stuff
Did you like... Solder through the main chip on the receiver?
Not just the radio stuff that's wrong
that's a vtx antenna
oh k
2.4ghz vs 5.8GHz
oh yeah
but i have a frsky radio
well, that's your first mistake
really
frsky is a bit of a pain to deal with
oh no, an R9 module
"a bit"
haha
hahah
oh, and it's an ACCESS X9D
even more of a pain
oh well, it can be made to work
just sometimes when the firmwares don't come together right, it's a major hassle
you can nowadays get a radio with 10x the range for < $200
oh i already had so much trouble connecting the two
ahhhhhhh
like is this any suitable for long range
No
Absolutely not
FrSky has like 1km max
even whith the module
500-800m usable
That module sucks ass unless flashed with ELRS
and even then it's kinda ass
because it's not really a 1W module
FRSKY runs it out of spec
so if i undertand well frsky is trash
well
the build quality is perfectly adequate
it's a perfectly well working radio
but the transmission system is a major pain
i experienced it
both 2.4 ACCESS and R9
FRSKY unfortunately tends to sabotage their radios
so that external modules have a hard time
so i i were to change radios for long range what should i goréà
well, depends
if you want the cheapest solution without getting rid of it
then just put an ExpressLRS module into the back of this radio
could i use like tbs?
ELRS is better and cheaper
really?
Yes
and for the reciever then
btw, where are you from @short gulch if I may ask?
another great news
due to mobile networks
but that's no problem
because ExpressLRS exists in 2.4Ghz variant 🙂
which is actually the more popular one
nice
there are loads of modules to choose from for your radio (with its JR bay)
and ExpressLRS receivers are cheap
but is the vtx suitable for long range too?
that type comes in 200mW and 800mW variant
it's the race edition
Welp
200mW then
in 5.8g
like 1 km
like, on a plane, with a great directional antenna, you might get pretty far
Possibly
1km in theory yes, but not with cheapo antennas
ok i think that's pretty good for a start
i have the lollipop from foxeer
goggle antennas are more important
Quick note... I'm assuming from the redbottoms that it's 4s
That won't fly very long for LR
lol good eyes
flight time on 4S is a bit of a struggle
but okay for a beginner
just make sure that you land once it starts to hit 3.5V/cell
so for long range i would have to take the ELRS and change my drone to 6s and the tbs to a better one right?
you'll have to test the limits
to know what you need to upgrade first
btw, good job on actually binding the XM+ to the radio lmao
oh thanks
the vast majority of people can't do it without help
how many firmwares did you have to screw around with? 😂
so it wasnt right for europe
i had to do a script to change it
since you need some janky LUA script for it
yeahh
FRSKY used to refuse to provide you the script
someone evetually hacked a script together and they relented
yeah
FrSky moment
btw
LBT is not great for long-range
i'm nt sure why i didn't come to a server like this when i started
and really
noone cares about your one little radio not running LBT
FCC gets more range because it just screams over other radios
instead of shutting up like LBT does
ok
you'd have to flash the receiver firmware though
i did
which RSSI variant did you flash?
the receiver firmwares come in 3 variants
but it was an old version
no RSSI
RSSI8
RSSI16
this sets which channel the receiver reports signal strength on
IT IS VERY IMPORTANT TO HAVE IT
access d16
that's.. not...
ummm
yes you are right it's the ACCST D16
well, as long as you flashed one of the RSSI versions, you're fine
otherwise you'll have to reflash it
but since it worked?
why would i need to reflash it?
to get signal strength info
ooh
in BF you'll see signal strength on AUX4 (CH8) or AUX12 (CH16)
based on the version (RSSI8 or RSSI16)
the version without RSSI doesn't send signal strength
which is not usable
that's the radio
i got this
we're talking about the receiver
the reciever i think i did not flash it
go into Modules / RX Version
i thought it was for the radio
receiver firmware
did you connect the receiver to the radio with a cable?
nope
this
need pic
huh
that's unusual
you managed to get an XM+ with V1 firmware
since your radio is on V1 firmware too
that means that your XM+ is at least almost 2 years old 😄
details really
just didn't expect it
if you ever need it
here are XM+ V1 firmwares
would it be better if i would to go to newers version?
well, your problems are sorted for now
ELRS also needs firmware flashing, BUT, it can be done over wifi
and the guides are EXTENSIVE
like, ELRS has the best documentation of anything in the hobby
ELRS exists in both 2.4GHz and 900MHz variant
your R9 (900Mhz) module can be flashed to ELRS
and some R9 receivers can too
well, as I said, I wouldn't recommend 900Mhz in europe
I tried it, it's not ideal
however, you can try it on your side
it's just that ELRS 900Mhz hardware is hard to find
2.4GHz stuff is MUCH more common
so my actual module (flashed) would be 2.4 or 900?
R9 will always be 900
you can't change the hardware inside of the module to run a different frequency
if you want to run 2.4GHz, you need a 2.4GHz module
900Mhz has a higher theoretical range limit, as long as you stay away from mobile network towers
okay i fly in mountains would it be okay?
on 2.4GHz, people have gone 40km on planes and similar distances on quads (but with higher power levels)
6s?
that decides how much flight time you've got 😄
oh so ?
if you only have flight time to fly 5km away, then you'll only fly that far
right
to fly far you need to fly for a long time
so what is the power?
so you need a special long flight time build
it's like speaker volume, but for radio
ok
how "loudly" it sends the signals
i have it on my vtx
same thing
but i'm not sure why it w'ont go up
your VTX is limited to 200mW
max power?
yes
so it sucks a little
yes
long range records for ELRS
ok
basically
start with what you've got right now
just make sure you can see signal strength and stuff
and then upgrade whatever is too weak
video signal?
yeah
yes
did you use auto-search?
yes
then you have yourself to blame for your misery
they have manual.
every goggles have manual setting first, automatic second
people are just too lazy to read the manual and think like
"oooh, automatic, I get to be even more lazy" 😛
you need to figure out what band & channel your VTX is transmitting on
and then send the goggles to the exact same one
ok that's me 
if you wire up DATA to TX3 on the FC
then we can make it so that the VTX is controlled by the FC
ok
so you don't have to use the stupid button on the VTX
okkkkk
ok i'll try to put the right band
so i learned lots of things this morning
thanks a lot
np
glad I could help
sorry for the tone with FRSKY sometimes... it's just very frustrating
FRSKY did a lot worse things than just the firmware issues xD
it is
so i'll send you a photo of the drone when finished so you can see the heat-shrinkable sleeves 😀
😄
just... fyi
what I say is "do as I say, not as I do"
I did my own ugly wiring jobs, worse than yours 😂
not possible
I just learned my lesson eventually xD
i will too thanks to you
that's what I'm here for - to prevent people from having to learn them the hard way xD
oh no why did my VTX blow up again 
also i'm gonna strap a thumb on the drone soon
thats rly funnny BECAUSE I ALREADY EXPLODED 2 BATTERIES
at least you didn't set your X9D on fire like the guy from yesterday
no wayyyy
dead serious
yikes
I hope you're balance charging batteries 😂
btw, what charger have you got?
if it's blue imma flip
yeah
lipo detonator 2000
we can say that
oh you had the same?
an advice for one ?
in regards to the battery connector
buy 4S balance lead extensions
and sacrifice them to replace the broken connector
?
.
eventually, yes
right now the battery is a more pressing concern
oh you saw nothing...
do NOT charge batteries without balancing
seriously
they will blow up
that's why that radio blew up
there is a fixed number of times that you can do unbalanced charging
That number is between 0 and 10 usually
with old/hurt/crappy batteries, it's very close to 0
no clue what battery is in it so no idea how to help with that
now i only buy tattu battery
oh
tattu are great too
in regards to the charger
these chargers tend to fail progressively, after about 1 year of (Very) heavy use
they take longer and longer to finish charging, right at the end when the battery is almost full
their balancing circuitry slowly fails
when it fails, it's 50/50.
the charger will either kill itself and drain the battery
or, it will overcharge the battery until it explodes
okayyyyyyy
ok
well, if it has the right connector 😄
anyway, just be careful with the charger
know the symptoms
for a replacement, ask in #🧾shopping-advice
i was gonna ask
oh, battery repairs:
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If your lipo balance plug got chopped by a prop, he...
HOW TO REPAIR A LiPO BALANCE PLUG | As a BEGINNER!!
Today we figure out how to repair the balance plug for a Lipo! Not too hard but something you need to be careful with!
If you have a damaged balance connector, you should first check the voltages of all the cells and make sure they are within safe range. A broken balance connector could get ...
that's nteresting
make sure that the pins in the balance connector don't touch each other
that's the same as shorting out the battery
it will light itself on fire (the connector)
already happendened on the old one
i learned evrything the hard way
(about fpv i mean)
xD
what you don't know too
is that i had 2 tinywhoops before this drone
both never worked
F

so true 
that's yours?
so you started like me 
2018 pics 
the black charger was powered by my PC psu
my actual working running PC
at least you have a real imax
haha no
that's a knockoff too
and it tried to detonate one of those yellow lipos
charged a cell to 4.5V

anyway, gtg back to work
