#First iteration of the 40A variant of my motor driver
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
I'd put more caps close to the FETs
All that free space: stuff it with capacitance: MLCCs, polymers, electrolytics by order of distance
also your shunts aren't doing anything, you need a kelvin connection to gnd at the shunt
I'm worried about the gate connection inductance with such long tracks
are you doing 2 boards for thermal reasons? I'd put everything one one. Or at least the gate driver on the same board.
40A is very optimistic (unrealistic). That's 20W per FET peak (peak needs to be considered because the silicon thermal mass is very low), what's your thermal solution on this?
Yeh, I was worried about that. The idea of two boards as that all the computery bits could be a common board to multiple sizes of FET sub-board, but perhaps the length of the traces makes it unworkable as an idea.
The thermal solution is a sheet of aluminium between the two boards, and a heat sync on the back of each board, directly contacting the copper on the back of the FETs and the driver
I mean, I guess I could put my own current sense amplifier on the FET board, and ignore the one in the 8323
@spiral crescent given that one leg of the shunt is to ground, how should I go about doing the low side kelvin connection? Just place the current sense contacts close to the resistor and connect it to the ground plane?
I mean I can see it work, but make the connectors and traces nice and fat.
use a net-tie in the schematic, you basically just want a connection that doesn't carry current to measure just the potential difference
with the shunts the issue isn't trace length per se (ignoring interference), you're not pushing any current through them you just want a clean measurement
so something like this is acceptable?
yup, absolutely
also just keep in mind that the "current rating" on mosfets is aboslutely unrealistic and assumes heat being removed from the silicon instantly.
I'm planning a 30A ESC and will be looking for 3milliohm rds_on or lower fets
you could try some GANs
ST has free samples for those
also keep in mind to isolate it electrically, otherwise you short the draits with the heatsink
Yeh, I was wondering about how to do that sensibly 😄
Also, pretty sure those FETs aren't going to short the drains, they're QFN chips, but the capacitors need to be avoided - as does everything on the top board
do they now? I only see "preview" status products outside of their 700V range
i free sampled a few MASTERGAN 2
oh wait no
that's 600v
no, I need 100V 😂
then free sample a bunch of mastergans 1
600V @ 3 milliohm would be... quite something
why should I?
wdym
oh wait, it's 150 mohm
f
yeah. And a 600V 3 mohm fet would probably be a 1k usd behemoth
if those even exist
was just because you were saying you'd be putting a heatsink directly contacting the copper
oh, right, brain fart - I for some reason had decided that that was ground, yeh, good call
you get those electrically insulating heat conductive little insert things used in power supplies, don't you?
yeh, but that can also refer to the thicker, semi-solid thermal paste type things that IIRC are electrically conductive
ah those. but I think they're kinda niche.
pads are also nice because you get good contact even if the board is a bit warped, and it often is
so given your concerns about rDS, you think I might be better off with something like CSD18540Q5Bs?
yeah, what's the max voltage you're gonna be running?
48V is the target
what I should also do is add another set of mounting holes, so the heat sink mounting isn't the same as the mounting mounting
yup
that's cutting it quite close. Will you be doing regen braking?
I hadn't intended on it, no, though now that you mention it I'm wondering about it
<feature creep intensifies>
are you planning on running custom firmware or smth existing?
custom - I've got my own firmware on this little baby 2A stick and am planning on trying to make it run some bigger motors too
atm all it does is bog standard trapezoidal drive, so it's pretty naive, but it'll do FOC soon if I have anything to do with it (which I do)
issue with regen breaking is voltage transients. Especially if running on a full battery, it can't absorb a lot of current, so you get voltage spikes which kill the fets. There's softwane side protection (dumping the current into motor windings if voltage gets too high) and hardware side: TVS diodes, tons of bulk capacitance
yup, and I certainly need to consider something in that regard, because the intention here is to do some silly things with go-kart like things, so there is going to be the slowing down while battery is full situation to deal with
can be avoided if you have mechanical brakes
(and you should)
or a brake resistor (but that has to be real phat with a ph)
also, yes, I already killed 2 of these DRV8313s by cocking up my commutation timing
@mild mica ppffft, safety nafety
😛
XD
@spiral crescent on the plus side, it could also act as a seat warmer
regen braking doesn't work with no power, yk
*looks at 40 km/h bobbycar with zero mechanical brakes :S
...
haha
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but yeh, mechanical brakes will be a thing, but I still need to deal with (for example) it freewheeling on a hill
I mean, I could think of some "safety" system which shorts the motor windings in case of loss of power. But you'd probably go flying from how hard it brakes lol (and fry a motor winding on the way)
lol
copper blocks that move in towards a metal disk, and slows it down via eddy currents?
zvs is of course easier with more margin, because you need zero conduction at 48V, then have it start conducting at a couple volts higher, and have full conduction and clamp the voltage below 60v
nah, a super strong manget will do the job
I mean that's just your mechanical braking system. How you do that is up to you
hehe
freewheeling should be fine, unless you end up going faster than top electrical speed
just use this and literally convert to plasma your wheel
you can't roll if you have no wheels XD
then I'd have to solve the "how to close a switch" problem even he could barely solve
also - dude... that guy...
photonic induction showed off some fun switches
there's a level of insanity there to aspire to
can they handle literal megawatts?
smth along that line
yeh, the "I built a battery bank in my garden that can briefly emulate the output of a small power plant" is more than a bit nuts
you mean create nuclear fusion reactions?
yeh, that too
I mean, to be fair, creating fusion reactions isn't that hard - doing it accidentally is still kinda impressive though
doing it in a self sustaining way? Yeh, super hard
he also was the only guy that made a CEO say "f it we ball"
I love the fact that the battery company trusted him enough to sponsor him and send him all those batteries
yep
the liability
Anydesk bought the batteries XD
I mean - I kinda get it, he seems pretty competent, but also, utterly insane
is this a 2-layer board? Please watch out for GND return current. You have nice planes for supply and each phase, but the same current might flow from sense resistor GND, to the input connector/capacitor.
it's 4 layer - or was, it's now 6 layer
Still need to figure out what I'm doing with braking
might wanna look into smaller capacitance but higher ripple current rating caps
nods
I approve of the MLCCs tho :)
nah, some handle higher voltages
if you're talking about the supercapacitor banks, I doubt they'll be of much use here
no
you want solid or hybrid alu caps
much much lower ESR meaning much higher ripple ratings
oh ok
ESR bad for ripple rating because that resistance directly correlates to internal heating which determines the ripple rating
Internal heating bad especially for wet electrolytes because it'll make them evaporate/lower lifetime
Okay, today's itteration - I'm much happier with this version, still a lot of things to change though.
Solved the ADC proximity issue by sticking a dedicated ADC on the board with the FETs
so now the communication between the boards is the gate drivers, SPI, a "data available" line, and a time synchronisation line
Okay, I couldn't go to bed with those zones looking so crap
can recommend this for bedtime reading: https://www.ti.com/lit/an/slvaf66/slvaf66.pdf
I need to figure out how to make that left most zone wider - it's only 8 mm wide
oooh, useful
thank you
:)
on a related topic - whoever does documentation at Texas Instruments deserves a raise
their data sheets and guides really are top notch
except the layout examples haha
honestly just expand the zone straight vertical up through that via grid
the via grid isnt super dense so it should be fine
It's beginning to look like a thing
@spiral crescent btw, thanks for the link - much usefulnes was had, I integrated several changes from it
neato :)
Might also be worth putting a pair of fat zvs diodes if you havent done so already
Yeh, I was wondering about that. The guide is like “yeh, don’t rely on them”, but… might be a good redundancy
My one slight concern just now is whether my latency on shutting down in the event of fault is low enough, since using that ADC means I need to shut things down in software
Rather than relying on the DRV to shut it down
I prefer to have both softwace and hardware protection:
- dump current into motor windings above threshold voltage (software)
- ZVS (hardware)
- lots of bulk capacitance (hardware)
Right - the bit of hardware protection I lose is the V_RS and V_SENSE shutdowns in the case of shoot through. But it’s replaced with software protection. I’ll see if I can figure out how big diodes need to be and throw some on
Defence in depth is definately the right policy for a 2kW device
can also have a look at the moteus firmware for some inspiration, it's extremely well documented in my opinion
I think I have a plan for dealing with back emf now - charge the battery to no more than 80%. When driving, if the battery is below 95% SoC charge the battery with it. If above 95% - display a warning and carry on charging. If at 100%, display an error, and set all low side fets to open, and high side fets to closed, and rely on mechanical brakes.
Now just to figure out on which bit of hardware I’m implementing that on - the cart controller or the motor controller