#electronics
1 messages · Page 13 of 1
yea
The two cards are basically the same but the Rx 580s are cheaper and newer
whats the difference between the 580 and 590
Or this if it’s in ur budget
The 1660 super is about the same price as the Rx 5500
They are about the same
Wait nvm I’m dumb
The 1660 super is about 175 pounds and the Rx 580 is about 130 pounds
Idk how different the prices are where you live tho
I know
@hazy rose You do know that the 5500 XT is the same performance as the 1650 Super
@wind wind I know, when I said they are about the same I was talking about .the Rx580 vs Rx 590.
Bruh the 580 is not newer than the 5500xt
.the da best
Build it yourself
that is the best advice you can get i have seen some of the 1500 priced prebuilts and none of them have the components i have that i only spent like 700 dollars on
they were all lower grade parts then what i was able to get for 700 dollars
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VTTWWWK?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1&psc=1 anyone have this monitor?
lol I got my $500 monitor for $300. I can't afford that
not I
@wind wind what was a good gsync monitor thats reasonably priced?
@tidal wharfBravery i dont think anyone has that monitor bc of the price tag
@pine carbon Will you settle with g-sync compatable
g-sync compatable is ok
really depends on the game being played
sometimes it makes the game play worse
Well if it's certified compatible its not bad
I have a g-sync compatible panel and have had no complaints so far
@brisk condor cyberpowerpc do some builds that are fair pricewise. Helped check one for a user here a week ago. The pcpartpicker list came out about 50-70-ish usd less.
and that amount for getting a machine that is tested and ready to use is imo very fair
My PC is actually a cyberpower
they have some very fairly priced builds
mine included, meeting that exact quota that naed listed of 50-70 above what pcpartpicker says it would cost to build
and i am sorry to tell people this, but your own time (spent learning how to assemble a machine and get it ready to actually use) is not free
you might not attribute much value to it, but there is a cost associated with it
Big doubt
I have several systems built and I’m using them for college
Plus a laptop
what are you doubting @warped yew
You’re saying it doesn’t help, right?
I feel like it’s helping
Whenever I have a system die out, I know how to troubleshoot it
read what i wrote
And then I can go back to doing homework
because i think you might be misunderstanding, badly
You mean like, general research into building, or building plus other stuff as well (such as troubleshooting)?
i mean what i said above
"obtaining the knowledge to assemble a machine and get it ready to use"
I think I see
Whoops
i honestly dont understand how you got to whatever point you got to
Haha idk I just woke up maybe an hour ago
at least the above stands as a good proof of waking up before you start to type :P
is there a word for a camcorder/webcam combo?
also do people even still say "camcorder"
yes, you would call it a webcam
or IF you need the portability of a camcorder, a action camera is potentially what you are looking for
think stuff like gopro cameras
my friend needs something portable to record live shows, but also needs something to hook up to his pc for live recording/streaming
what kind of live shows?
music. video only, he'd get audio from a soundboard
hm
he should talk with some of the local sound/video technicians
because it would depend on what he actually is doing, what he needs
if that makes sense?
ya normally i'd do the research myself but i wasn't turning up much from searching for webcam camcorder combo
not what you are looking for either
just about any video camera can be used for a livestream
he's essentially just going to use it for recording video portably and also hooked up to his pc, synced with an audio interface
but it would just be fairly massively overkill for it
you willing to going to a different community and asking them?, because i believe i know a community that will know.
i will link you to the guys youtube about page, because you can see the platforms etc he is on
try his discord
but
do yourself the favour and try to present most of your info in one chunk
just to clarify, you said pretty much any portable camera can also double as a webcam?
yes, depends on a bunch of things, but yes.
alright thanks for all your help!
you had me at rgb
stolen from newegg twitter eh?
I have a HP pavilion laptop with green keyboard
I got it last christmas (the christmas in 2018)
Ew green keyboard?
green light up
@terse jacinth you mean you got a global warming machine?
Ew
Gaming laptops create more heat then a cat that’s horny
Its got 8GB
Your laptop must be why Australia is on fire
DESTRUCTION 100
Cool, I have shaders on minecraft
I’m running dualchannel 16 GB ram
Nice
That sooo fastttt
It’s not as fast as the amount of time it takes for my girlfriend to dump or cheat on me thoooo
17
i7 860 is from 2009
close enough
Well you were around for it you just didn't care at the time i would assume
technically 7 since 2009 you would of been 7
If you're in the US don't you have to be 21
21 but the height xD says no
Which is better for capturing devices avermedia internal or elgato internal ? (Primary from gaming pc to stream build, occasional console) I typically always thought elgato was the best but I never really heard of avermedia
What is your GPU?
I used to use an external ElGato HD60 S. At the time I had a GTX 1060 3gb, and it ran pretty great. Dunno about internal cards tho. And since then it's been around 6 months and the card doesn't work anymore.
ElGato has offered support but I have procrastinated sending them an email.
What is your GPU?
@thorn gulch The Intel 19 9900ks
@weak dagger you up for doing some research video watching?
if so, eposvox on youtube is who you should have a go at
he basically only does reviews of audio/video related gear
@strange perch I have been, I looked at reviews and comparisons, there are so many reviews against each product making me second guess myself
that includes stuff like the elgato and avermedia products
perhaps go to his discord and have a chat?
you can find the link under any of his videoes
@strange perch ill look him up
i can vouch for him knowing what he is talking about
and he is not 100% technobabble or PR speak either
good to hear lol
might as well go to the people that know their craft right? :)
true
@weak dagger GPU, not CPU. If you have a 16/20 series GPU except 1650 non super, no point in a capture card
@thorn gulch if he has consoles, he does
true
I like Epos for his OBS and gamer streaming specific encoding settings/ffmpeg custom flags etc advice.
He might not be an expert on hardware in itself, but I don't think that takes away from the value of the content he produces.
@wraith steppe you found anyone that talks about the hardware that he does, without going off the deep end and starting to technobabble rant? (thinking about approachability for people that come here)
Does anyone know how to wipe a hard drive on windows xp?
like you would on any other system, with a boot stick
and if you dont need the drive at all anymore, a hammer, a really big one
(not joking about the last one)
Im looking to do it without the boot stick
Take the platter out and give it a good sanding
IF you are talking about the drive that has XP on it. That wont happen
Then cut it into strips
@wide vault there is no need for the trolling.
Okay 😌
Ty
iunno where else to put this specific issue lol @spark snow
do you have the laptop with you now?
Yes
ok plug in the charger, take out the battery, turn it on and lemme know what happens
actually wait
The flashing lights stopped
go into bios
under main tab, look for option that says AC adapter type, lemme know what it says
should be F2
It says "Health: Excellent" and "AC Adapter 90W"
with the battery in?
Mhm.
What's different?
O
Yes, very different.
I checked the BIOS before and it couldn't detect the Voltage on the Charger or the Battery
okay so run it and if the problem occures again, let me or someone else know lol
on the new battery and charger?
No, old one.
that means one of them had an issue
The battery and charger I'm currently using is streight from Newegg.
the only other issue i can think of, is if the laptop is old and worn, the connection plug isnt fully soldered onto the board anymore.
thus it's shorting out.
What I'm worried about is that it's happening again, thus maybe iditacting to a more serious problem.
how old is the laptop
how well taken care of was it
Pretty well.
is it only plugged in while sitting on a desk and such?
or was it plugged in while on a bed, or on a lap, etc etc
The second one happens more often tbh
oh a lap and bed?
Or on the floor
ok
so i mean, its a possiblity, but also it could just be one of the items you got also just happened to be defective as well, or it could just be a fluke since it was having the issue before and now its registered that those are good, or it could be something in the bios was changed and conflicting.
so all you can really do for now is run the laptop and see if it stays lol
no problem let me know if anything else happens and ill try to help 🙂
I purchased a Mac mini i5. This is my second one only this time I purchased it from Newegg. The last one I purchased was from iTech Deals. My problem is that I purchased a Bluetooth keyboard (2 now) on amazon, specifically says it works with this machine but neither machine picks up the Bluetooth. I have the computer hooked up to TV screeen, can see it but the computer cannot be set up or move forward with set up unless there is a keyboard to se it up with. What am I doing wrong. What can I do or purchase that wk
Will make this computer work
does the bluetooth keyboard have a charging cable?
@light ingot if the charging cable is usb you can try plugging it into the computer, and set up the keyboard with bluetooth later in settings
dayum, 500 euros for 1440p monitor?
Something like this is cheaper for basically the same thing
https://www.saturn.de/de/product/_msi-optix-mag271cqp-2597542.html
yeah
I wonder where the mag271cqr is at
because I'm not too sure on how good the mag271cqp is, but the cqr is good
(that would save you 100 euros lol, same specs)
Reason: Bad word usage
: (
just if you would have to choose
MSI Optix MPG27CQ2
or
ACER Predator XB271HUAbmiprz
MSI
I have a MSI monitor, they're good, and the Acer monitor has TN panel, which has bad reputation for having bad colors and stuff
VA usually looks better for about the same performance
especially here where both are 144hz 1440p 1ms monitors.
@robust anchor get a VESA arm/mount and that wont be a problem for you
Some how the power button wouldn't work on the fishing alarm what I found out that was the pins Were connected on purpose when it was built. So I took a razor blade and fixed it.
What’s a good tv
size/budget?
Samsung, LG
Like to buy we have like a budget of $1500 obviously that’s just max what we would pay
what size tv
65+
Isn't the max size right now like 80"
So a Civic got it lol
60,000 is not a good car that is more like a Lexus
Way too expensive for a tv lmao for consumers I mean
a lexus is a good car...
Unless you have like a billion
Lexus is better than just good
Just get a Tesla
ugh
Or 2
im not gonna debate the way i said a sentence right now
anyways
this one looks like its a good deal right now
we have a 80" tv like that one
its fantastic
the colors are amazing, and the software is fast and responsive
if youre looking for something a bit cheaper
No offense but if i buy a TV i would go to bestbuy
My dads really looking for a oled but thanks guys
lemme find an oled
I prefer in stores too just cause I know I’m getting the product instead of it being shipped or picked up
Or a big brand especially if it’s $1000+
The reason i would as well to go to the store is if there is a defect i can go back to the store and get another one right away
no oled filter on newegg 
Sad 
@weary pasture try now https://www.newegg.com/p/pl?N=100167585&ActiveSearchResult=True&SrchInDesc=oled
meh.
There is a reason why newegg included this https://i.gyazo.com/68bd70131b78eec99c822bf079863829.png
sorta
Nvm
anyways
search within you can type oled and make it a filter
not many options
and theyre both used/refurbished
youd probably rather go to the store
This would be like 50$ over but https://www.newegg.com/p/N82E16889007664
For some reason my dad is set on getting the C9 thanks anyways guis
np
also btw... oled might not be worth it lol
the demos at stores really just show the tech, all movies and TV shows never get that dark
i'm looking for a 4K TV
they all have the stands on the left and right and won't fit on my TV stand
RIP
need a new TV stand
need to buy that first, and then the next month buy the TV (which i can afford to just buy outright)
wall mounts ftw! 😄
I live in an apartment and i have a wall mount for my TV in the living room
Just gotta find a apartment that allows you to install a wallmount or has one preinstalled that works with your tv
You can just buy a mount that mounts the tv with a single stand
Something like this
im having a problem with my g.skill rgb ram the software is not detecting it at all i have tried everything online and its still not working anyone know how i can fix this my mobo is the msi b350 tomahawk if that helps at all.
What software are you using
g.skill aura dosent work
there is a problem with the aura service and there no fixes i can find for that too
also i dont have an asus board so i cant get a good version of aura sync
https://cdn.discordapp.com/attachments/645402689282375680/678707621657575424/unknown.png this is the problem im getting with aura service there is no fix for this or that i have found anyways anyone know a fix
@grand cypress you need the software that talks to the motherboard chip... should come from motherboard manufacturer
Idk
the quadro is basically "just" a fully functional TU102 die, which is the die they use for the 2080ti (as in, they use the non-fully functional dies for that)
obviously with more memory etc
so I've been bamboozled by Seasonic twice now. first one went No Power, and I had it RMA'd. The replacement unit (brand new btw) went Low Power. think I'm gonna look for other branded PSUs from here on out.
wdym "low power"
@desert tusk that makes just about zero sense. Do elaborate
Seasonic M12II. A week in after using the first unit, it failed to start my computer up. It would keep the RGB on my RAM sticks lit, but the rest of the PC stays off
had it RMA'd and was replaced. Just over a week of using the replacement unit, my GPU (Gigabyte RTX 2060S)'s PSU light started blinking, which indicated that there's an abnormality on the PSU. When I ran any games that used the GPU, the PC just BSOD. Went and swapped back my Corsair VS650, and everything works fine.
it seemed like a good purchase at the time. 80+ Bronze and everything
the bronze/gold/etc markings dont mean anything in reality
what matters is the components
and the design of the actual unit (on the inside)
the interesting seasonic units start around 105+ usd
hopefully you have learned from this and know that it might be a good idea to ask for advice next time @desert tusk
yeah. I mean I did look around, and stumbled upon the PSU tier list on a forum
think it was the one in LTT?
there are a fair number of tier lists, so without throwing a name on it, it is hard to say how viable it is :)
checking it again, the rankings changed and the ranking did changed, pushing the one I had down
the m12II should be marked bad on that one
it was only marked as such recently.
around December 2019, lasted about a week. the replacement process took a few months since the supplier was closed for the holidays
dont need the date
hm, you might have hit an old list then
because it has been known for a couple of years that the m12 is not a good psu
hmm probably
thankfully nothing broke aside from the psu :)
and you are now that much smarter :)
oh well. charge to experience. sadly the shop can't replace the unit to a different brand/model. all they can do is RMA.
surely they can give you the money back?
only if the package wasn't opened. was even thinking of getting the 3rd replacement unit, and then return that
yeah. gonna go for an EVGA or a Corsair even. anything modular and 750w.
based on what you listed above, you dont remotely need a 750
just saying :)
so unless you are doing/planning something you have not mentioned yet?
possible proc upgrade from Ryzen 2600X to 3600X, and other upgrades. the modularity would just make things easier for me since it's an mATX case, and cable management is pain
yes, the modular side is a convenience choice. and that is entirely up to you.
its the wattage that doesnt make sense
not even a 3950x with a 2080ti will need a 650
nvm a 750
more or less just peace of mind, knowing that I have the headroom to OC when necessary
quality of the unit is imo quite a bit more important there :)
but, i am not trying to change your mind, it is your choice :)
fair point. will definitely look into the reviews of what I'll get first. thanks c:
have a chat with @thorn gulch in the #cases-psu-and-cooling sub channel
he knows more about the lower end of the spectrum than i do
lower as in, cheaper units
it will be well worth your time @desert tusk
alrighty thanks @strange perch
anytime :) best of luck in the future with PSU's :)
hehe
Any printed circuit board people on here? Looking to repair an PCB on a neon light
The best way to repair a pcb is to use wire and just bridge the components together where the trace is broken
I have a specific transistor/voltage regulator that I cannot find anywhere online, so looking for some expertise. Looks exactly like a S9013 3-pin transistor, but is cooked and broken in half. All I can make out on good half is WS, over top of a 78, over top what looks like an 07. I've found voltage regulators online that look similar and have designations like WS 78L06 (6V) or a 78L08 (8V) but no 7V, and while they look the same physically, the numbers, and how they are written on the chip are completely different as there is no L on mine and the numbers are stacked instead of sequential on the same line.
Ok, hold on, will try to return with answer soon
I'm in class rn, so I sent this to some of my buddies who know this kinda stuff
Send a pic or two
Should have taken a pic. Will do so tonight.
I don't know anything about this stuff, but with a quick google search, is something like this what you're looking for?
https://pdf1.alldatasheet.com/datasheet-pdf/view/888516/SEMTECH_ELEC/78L07.html
78L07 datasheet, 78L07 datasheets, 78L07 pdf, 78L07 circuit : SEMTECH_ELEC - 3-Terminal positive voltage regulator ,alldatasheet, datasheet, Datasheet search site for Electronic Components and Semiconductors, integrated circuits, diodes, triacs, and other semiconductors.
(since you need something like 78L06, except 7v)
Also, see what the input voltage is from the board if you can, because that would help too
Newbie to this board. How do I attach a pic?
Level 3 you must be
Ah figured
Talk more you must do
I gave you regular, post a pic.
Looks physically like a 78L07 or S9013 or similar, but again the font, and placement of the letters on the chip are not similar to any of the the PCB components I have found online
Thanks Box
Hard to make out the component, but you can see the burn marks on the board and the top of it. I will take a better pic of the front tonight, but what I can see looks like this up the left face of the component::
78
07
Sorry Should
WS
78
07
with the letters/numbers stacked. Although burned and cracked on the right side of the face, it does not look like any other letters or numbers are obscured.
Can you take a pic of the markings on the component?
Tonight. May be hard to make out but will try
Ultimately that is my question. Is it just an older version of what are now designated 78L07 or similar, or is it something completely else? Don't want to put in a voltage regulator when it is a capacitor or a transistor or something else.
it looks like a burn spot from something else, cuz the component is next to it not on it, did you lift it up?
slowely move the green Capacitor over to the other side and angle the camera so there's no glare when you take a picture
also, thats a HUGE resister, what am i looking at?
that doesn't look good
without any input i can determine this is some kind of AC-DC converter circuit
i see the AC in, with a full bridge rectifier, a coil beside that, an IC to probably drive that coil, plenty of Caps to smooth the power
which makes me believe that the burned bit is the transister that drives the IC
is this a USB charger of sorts?
v.v i've watched WAY too much BigCliveDotCom
ok so its a AC/DC converter to high voltage transformer?
it must be ON for a long duration of time
You are looking at the top of the "transistor" and yes I bent it up
hmmm
for something with such burn mark it looks as though either its fault is in the IC, or the transister was too weak to begin with
Will help once I take some better pics tonight.
Was told it was in working order that morning. Took a punt on trying to fix for next to nothing and opened it up. This was the only thing I could find out of order
how is it... like... is it a 110 and you tried it on 220?
Just a flea market sale so no big investment, but would like to try get it running.
keep your eyes open for other neon bar signs, odds are they'll have similar driver boards to frankenstien together
Not sure when or how it failed. Flea market gal said she had it working and then it just stopped.
Good suggestion
if you can match the numbers, you might be able to get it from Radioshack.com
the component specifically i mean
also if you're lucky enough to still have a store nearby it might be there
Agreed. That's what I was hoping was someone would recognize the component and say "Oh yes its definitely a transistor, and you can find its replacement here", expect googling the component numbers as on it has yielded no result. Help if I took a pic. Tomorrow!!!
except.... fat fingers today
if you watch enough BigCliveDotCom, you'll start to recognize the parts lol
GL and HF
I was going through your earlier reply and am currently watching a BigClive video on the components. Thanks for turning me onto that. Definitely looks like a small 3 pin transistor and I suspect it is but is an older model, or an odd manufacturer so hard to find, but looks to me like it would be the equivalent of a WS78L07 which is easily searchable.
So here are some updated pics with the last one edited to highlighted the lettering and numbering on it.
wow
thats an explosion
i wonder what caused it tho
look at the caps on the board
check for bulges or leaks
Yeah not sure what happened. This is the transformer for it
K will do
Otherwise board looks clean
Will try w a q-tip and rubbing alcohol
^
oh
the bottom number is a serial number i think
that can be ignored
i also see an "A" to the right of the WS
which matches up with half of the google image results
can you take a pick of the bottom of the board?
Can't clean it, it's burnt/broke off from when I bent it up
ok
also, what are the model numbers of the surrounding transistors
i see 3 others
4
6, actually
oh, and 2 other large ones
Haven't taken board off yet
also, take a pic of the top of the 2 ICs
What is that?
A pic of one of the S9013s
Gimme 2
because its either 05, 08, 09, 10, 12, 15, 18, 24
so they all run at 100mA
that narrows that down
Output voltages of 3.3; 5; 6; 8; 9; 10; 12; 15; 18; 24
this helps
Not easy as the wiring is quite short but here are top and bottom of what I can get. 2nd pic u can see the transistor above
so the difference is voltage
what the hell is that
ask in #cases-psu-and-cooling
plz
U tell me. I'm a newbie lol
Very odd looking bridge tho
The black appears to be a heat shrunk sleeve of sorts
wait nvm, it shoots past it
the bridge might be fine
but i need a better pic of the underside of the board
Yes having a hard time getting the iPhone to focus that close in. Have to go for a bit so will try post a better pic later. Thx for all your help
wdym that close in
flip the board over
take a pick of all the green stuff
with the silver dots
the whole thing
just like the one you took of the top
Sorry, was worried I'd bust a connection
The 2 by the resistor top rt. thx
Back in 20-30 min
haha, ok i cant believe i missed this
but thats because the cap didnt really look leaky
see the bottom of the cap?
LMAO
so the cap needs to be replaced
and the Vout of the transistor can be determined by the voltage of the cap
i just need a clear picture of the underside of the board in that area to be sure
i need a closeup of the circled area
try to keep that bridge out of the way
so considering its a 25v cap
i guess the closest we can get is the WS78L24A
And yes I noticed that cap after u mentioned earlier. It says 1000 uF 25V
it needs to be closer
and less blurry
try zooming in as far as you can on your phone
then line it up
it should focus better
this reminds me that I want to stay up late and watch retro tech repairs but I have school tomorrow D:
ha
oh, what do you have for soldering tools? because those pads are going to need some cleaning
Order today, ships today. L78L24ABZ-TR – Linear Voltage Regulator IC 1 Output 100mA TO-92-3 from STMicroelectronics. Pricing and Availability on millions of electronic components from Digi-Key Electronics.
Last pics for tonight. Hope good enough. Gotta go. Thx again for now...
at that price range, new, 570. used, idk
I found a gtx 980ti for 113 and that looked nice but ebay scary
might be able to find a 1070 at that price range if you're lucky
that doesnt sound out of the ordinary.
970 is 30 bucks lol
I found a guy on letgo selling his pc for 600 and it has a 1070 in it
I wonder if he'll sell me individual parts
I'd try to stretch your budget from the 570 and get a 580. the 8GB of VRAM is more useful with the 580, as the 570 isn't as powerful when compared to the 580, and can barely almost use 4GB
unless playing at higher resolutions than 1080p
then go with an 8GB 570
well he has a prebuilt and I dont think he has a gpu
I think hes running off of integrated graphics
which is an L
2080 ti. 10 bucks
Gimme gimme
hard to see, is that the end of a blown up zener diode?
Go higher up in thread for description and wider shot of the pcb
Intender, if u read up, it's a 78LxxA made by who ever WS is
It's a positive voltage regulator for the 25v 1000uf cap that burst
The xx represents the output voltage
07 is the beginning of the part serial number
What you put in the blue box is most likely a 2, because it can only be a 0, 1, or 2
And if it's a 2, the only option for the digit after it is a 4
Because that's the only 78 PVR with a voltage out of over 20
And because it goes to a 25v cap, it would make sense that it is slightly less than the cap itself that it feeds.
Love your enhancement intender and your response @eager bison. I was thinking it was a WS78L07 as well, but the cap is definitely a 25V so makes sense.A tech at my wife's work is looking at it but will pass along all the
helpful info
Yes a 06 and and 08 but no 07 curiously
Wondering if you guys can help me out with a Android settings issue?
So the technician came back and said the voltage regulator blew up because the input voltage was too high for it (so maybe it was a lower number VR?)
He ended up replacing with Cap Alum 1000uF 20% 25V Thruhole capacitor and an IC REG LINEAR 7V 1A TO220FP voltage regulator. Sorry i didn't take pics of his work before putting it back together, but here are some pics of the result! Thanks sass i et al...... Much appreciated for your input and help
All functions working!
Nice
$5 purchase and a case of beer for the fix. Not to shabby
i mean, 1A is 10 times the original, but who cares, if it works, it works lmaoo
I have a netstick. I am looking for a wireless router I can use with it. Netstick is USB.
What netstick? Most modern wireless routers are compatible with it
What's your internet speed?
Hmm, that's a tough one
They should've listed supported wireless routers, are you able to get a hold of Sprint Chat and see if they have any recommendations?
I know some wireless routers have support for USB devices, but I think that's to set up a file server
Sprint chat is not helpful.
Sprint Chat: "Connect your 3G USB modem to an available USB slot on the wireless router using a USB cable."
Sprint Chat: "You can connect with any wireless router with netstick modem."
I’m way too tired for this
This is true
Actually
I want that
For my large electricity consuming equipment
That I do in fact have and possess
@wide vault like what
Electronics and equipment and devices and machines
What do you guys think about running a pc off an extension cable
it is not the best idea
you should avoid it if you can, but if you have to then make it as short as you can
How are you doing tonight I was trying to find out what would be a good Nas product that will support 4K video to play on Plex can anyone help me with this I'm trying to find out the cheapest way to go and still be able to play my movies on Plex that have 4K in them
Hey does anyone know anything about like a fan frame or grill that directs the air from the fan, I've seen them before but now that I actually need one, I cant find anything...
uh
Not sure if you need that for your computer?
Get new fans?
you could go to your local hardware store and look around in HVAC section and just kinda
attach it to your case
When they don’t respond 😍
ping
pong
🏓
Okay now I'm deeply confused. Is anybody able to explain why this is? I have it connected to a separate powered USB 3.0 hub that was suggested by the community and verified by the oculus community and I have it connected to my GTX 1650 Graphics card display port. Thinking of selling this and buying the Vive. I'm really hating how my Oculus Rift S has been asking SINCE I BOUGHT IT LAST MAY!
When did you buy that Rift S?
earlier models had an issue where a connector in the headset was loose which resulted in the cameras not working
it could be that
Some other things to check, make sure its plugged into a USB 3.0 port, make sure your graphics drivers are up to date
if you can get the rift s to work, id stick with that because the vive is... bad...
I bought it last year a little bit after the Oculus Quest came out and a month before the Valve Index came out. I have it plugged into an Inateck USB 3.0 internal HUB plugged into my PCIe slot and connected to my power supply with SATA. All drivers are up to date.
@calm mural does your mobo have 3.1 slots?
It has 3.1 Gen 2 ports but Oculus hates them
Nah this has been an underlying issue since last May when I bought it.
I got the USB 3.0 card and now the USB ports say they're connected it's just the sensors that aren't
Rift S is extremely picky about which type of USB you use
i had similar issues with my og rift and bought a pcie usb card for it, but the og rift works better on 3.1 isntead of 3.0 in my experience
try finding the driver for your usb card and updating it?
I update everything religiously XD as soon as I notice there's an update (I check every day) I update
did this start after an update?
Nope. It's been an issue since I got it
also its generally good practice to not update drivers unless you need to for something. it can cause issues from what I've heard
It can but it's a very low chance if you know what you're doing
so wait you check device manager for driver updates?
I check device manager any time something isn't working with something I plug in
Not on my motherboard
I got it to work tree times in the entire time of me owning it. Once was back about 4 months after I got it, once in offline mode for some reason (It refused to work online), and once during new years
Yep
I've documented the solutions I've done to get it to work and I tried them again and they just... Didn't
okay. have you tried deleting and reinstalling the oculus software
Several times
Asus Prime B360M-A motherboard
Intel i7-9700KF 8 core 8 thread processor
Zotac Gaming GTX 1650 4GB vRAM graphics card
16GB XPG 3000 mhz RAM
500GB M.2 SSD + 1TB HDD
Apevia Liquid cooling + 2X case fans
okay what windows update are you on
go to windows update in search bar and tell me what version you're on
what feature update
Feature update to Windows 10, version 1909
hmmm okay so thats not it
have you tried turning on the beta setting in oculus home?
Yep
Okay thanks
okay go to settings>privacy
Done
go to microphone, make sure its set to allow access, find the oculus app, and make sure its allowed, then do the same for camera
Fun fact Oculus isn't even showing
were both set to allow apps and allow desktop programs?
It's not even showing up to enable/disable them
can you take a screenshot of what you see
Yep
this part
I leave them on
okay
i got another idea
well
not my idea but an idea
try this
go into device manager, and change the driver for the ASMedia USB3.1 eXtensible Host Controller. For some reason, even though that controller works fine for other USB 3.0 hardware, it causes problems for the Rift S.
Right click it, choose "update driver", then choose "browse my computer for driver software". Choose "let me pick from a list..". Untick "show compatible hardware", choose "(standard USB Host Controller) from the menu on the left and select "USB xHCI Compliant Host Controller" from the box on the right.
This will replace the ASMedia USB driver with a generic USB3.0 driver from Microsoft. As soon as I did this, the Oculus Rift S sensor check worked fine, and I could use the Rift S without and dramas.
make sure the driver you're changing is the USB hub that you're plugged into though
what do you mean
One of them was showing as the hub for my oculus?
still dont understand what you mean
as in like, the usb hub is listed as something like oculus hub?
thats probably the grand you have for the pcie usb device
when you put it in, did you use a CD or specific driver installation tool for it?
Instalation tool
so try changing it to the generic usb 3.0 like i posted above
That's the PCIe card I have my Oculus Rift S plugged into
It should be showing as Rift S HUB which is what it's saying now
did you change it?
fresco
Not even close
sounds fresh
I updated it with the Rift S driver update and it now shows as Rift S USB Hub however! There's supposed to be 2 and there's only one showing
There's a USB built into the headset for the sensors
The one on the cable is just a power source for the display and sensors
huh?
there should only be a USB and a display port plug
the USB powers and transfers data, the DP displays visual
if you did an update thing, try to run it again tell me if it works now
There's a USB to power the headset. There's a USB to power the sensors built into the headset.
reinstall windows 
I already did that a while back and it did nothing
rip
can you take a picture of the headeset wires?
I can't open the headset
The external cable only has one
The USB that is built into the headset is another
if there is only one usb plugged into the computer, it will only show one on the system
this is the rift s wire. one end goes into the rift S, other end splits into usb and DP. thats what you have right?
False. Since the Rift S has one built into the headset it shows 2
And yes there is only one on the physical cable. There is one built inside the headset
i've not heard of that yet
@weary pasture confirm for us
come help
stop beating sabers
I've done a ton of research on why it shows 2
okay but for arguments sake, have you tried running the program again in the last 10 min
okay
so then
go into device manager, and change the driver for the ASMedia USB3.1 eXtensible Host Controller. For some reason, even though that controller works fine for other USB 3.0 hardware, it causes problems for the Rift S.
Right click it, choose "update driver", then choose "browse my computer for driver software". Choose "let me pick from a list..". Untick "show compatible hardware", choose "(standard USB Host Controller) from the menu on the left and select "USB xHCI Compliant Host Controller" from the box on the right.
This will replace the ASMedia USB driver with a generic USB3.0 driver from Microsoft. As soon as I did this, the Oculus Rift S sensor check worked fine, and I could use the Rift S without and dramas.
do that ^
i cant see anything on that
i do see though. "choose "(standard USB Host Controller) from the menu on the left and select "USB xHCI Compliant Host Controller" from the box on the right." you can choose usb xhci compliant host controller from what i can see
So my other USB for my Rift S is showing this..
Yet my standard Rift S USB Hub says everything is fine
okay so what i would do, unplug the rift, restart your pc, just to ensure that everything resets. then go back into that, find the driver that is the entire pcie usb hub, and change that to the USB xHCI Compliant Host Controller, and then after that is done, plug it in and see what happens.
rift s splits at the end of the cable
the question was
if you go into device manager and to the USB, does it show 2 oculus things or 1?
for you
lol how long are we going at this
I deserve working vr 
now let me play beat saber
It didn't do anything
I ran a valve test to check and what they said I agree with. But there's no reason Oculus should be this bad about it's requirements ...
well its below but it should still be able to be detected
i dont think thats your issue
when you plug it into the 3.1 on the mobo, does it show 2 or just 1?
I agree that it's below.
It shows 2 even now. It's just that windows is practically disabling it because it's causing "issues"
what is the error again?
okay right click the oculus and go to the properties and driver tab and uninstall device
then unplug and replug
and let it reinstall
Same issue
i am at a loss ):
Everyone I've spoken to is..
There is no absolute reason that a certified technician and 20 other highly tech knowledgable people can't figure out an issue..
what is the unknown usb device
The other USB for the Rift S
oh wait i was looking at zacks
can you take a SS of the device manager one more time
but liek a proper screen shot and not the phone thing lol
did you rightclick and uninstall both the broken and the working?
I did that just now and only one is showing back up
Inateck. I can send a link to the exact card if you would like me to
yes please
also what all usb devices are currently plugged into your pc
oh hey thats the one i use lol
My MackieProFX12v2 audio interface, my SteelSeries Arctis 5 headset, my SteelSeries Rival 310 mouse, my SteelSeries Apex 100 keyboard, my Razer Kyio webcam, my Logitech C922 webcam, my Logitech C270 webcam and now my Rift S
ok when you tried the thing where you change the driver to one of the windows stock drivers, did you change the "fresco logic USB 3.0" one?
do me a favor
unplug EVERYTHING except the keyboard and mouse
Okay
then plug in the headset
we're going to run through a few troubleshooting things here so dont plug anything back in until we're done or unless i say to
theres a chance you may have conflicting devices
Okay everything is unplugged except the keyboard and mouse
Okay so I noticed something interesting. When I had it unplugged it shown 6 USB devices. When I plugged it in it shows 8 yet only one is Rift S USB Hub.
One of them isn't showing properly
ok uninstall it again and then replug
i wanna see if it changes and maybe not installing properly because of conflicting devices
with a different name?
Only shows up as USB composite device. There's two when it's not plugged in however after I plug it in there's 3
okay figure out which ones are the rift and uninstall both and then replug
cause it probably wont work if one still has installed
Okay so 001 and 002 isn't the Rift S (logging this so I know
okay
It's still bringing it up as the same thing after. Do you think windows might be the reason behind it?
well ok
so
uninstall it one more time, unplug it, and dont plug it back in
I dont think it's windows itself, no
its going to be a driver somewhere most likely
but after you unplug it, rightclick on fresco logic usb 3.0 and go to properties, drivers, update driver, choose browse my computer for driver software, let me pick from list, untick the show compatible hardware box, and look for USB xHCI compliant host controller, and choose that as the option.
let me know when you do that
Done
okay now plug your mouse into one of those usb ports and check to see if it works fine
Okay it's working fine
okay now try plugging in headset and see if that works
Still showing as a composite device
ok unplug it
and go to this link https://www.inateck.com/inateck-ktu3fr-4p-usb-3-0-pci-express-karte-mit-4-usb-3-0-ports.html
scroll down and click this
download and install it
what are the options
Modify, repair, and remove
Okay I did the thing
plug it back in and see if that works
so both have errors?
try uninstalling the rift driver and replugging again
on both of them
did you try uninstalling the driver on the ruft s hub yet
Forgot to change the controller to host controller which fixed the Rift S error. Still showing one as a USB Composite Device and now one says "Unknown USB Device (Link in Compliance Mode)"
see if you can rightclick and go to drivers on the unknown one, and see if you can find the rift S hub driver in the "choose a driver on my pc" bit
like see if you can brute force it into being what it needs to be
how did you fix the other one
I just changed the Fresco thing to the Host Controller
okay can you see the error message in the second one and show me it
This device is not working properly because Windows cannot load the drivers required for this device. (Code 31)
The SuperSpeed link to the USB device keeps going to an error state Compliance. If the device is removable, remove the device and then disable/enable from device manager to recover.
Exactly what it says cause I just copy paste XD
Driver Section: BADDEVICE.Dev.NT
?
whys that
:/
yeah my only next guess is another reinstall of windows and only install what you need and dont plug anything else in. once all your neccesary drivers are installed, download the software, and then run set up, and plug it in when prompted during set up
but idk if you wanna do that
Don't really wanna do that cause I've done that once before
yeah i know. i read that someone said they had success with doing it while keeping current files
but also there is another version of update later than 19xx
so you could try downloading the latest feature update
I updated it a little bit ago?
@calm mural try plugging the oculus directly into the motherbord's usb ports rather than ur pcie hub
And make sure u are using microsoft usb drivers, not asmedia/whatever the company is
Do u know what ur mobo is? @calm mural
Unplug everything except mouse and keyboard. Right click on every usb device and click uninstall except mouse, keyboard, and usb controller. Then restart pc. Plug vr headset directly into mobo instead of pcie hub. Then reinstall ocolus headset, update drivers, make sure windows is up to date, mabye restart 1 more time.
There is option to reinstall windows but also keep ur files, maybe try that
@ionic gull
Asus Prime B360M-A
It only has USB 3.1 Gen 2 USB ports which the Oculus Rift S absolutely dispises.
And I've done that before but my Minecraft files don't hold over
Can someone help me with an error on windows
What's the errors?
What's the errors?
@calm mural you have to guess iit
error: an error on windows
It's Windows so probably the error is that he got Mac XD
what
Do you know what could cause everything in a pc to turn off(fans, cpu ,light on motherboard telling what components are not working, etc) except for the rog logo light? Its done this twice today and ounce yesterday. I did update windows yesterday. I checked cpu temp and it was fine when games were running fine before shutdowns.
aight so I have this dead laptop with a hardrive that has windows 10 on it
harddrive is healthy but like
how do I transfer windows OS from it onto a new SSD
clone the drive @austere ginkgo
macrium reflect lets you do that
it is a free tool
all you need is a spare usb stick that it can configure for you to boot from
why would you wipe it?
hmm
can I just download windows on a usb, and then put that on my SSD and then use my harddrive as normal?
I hear that the longer an Ethernet cable is, the worse it gets. About how long is a threshold for this. Like at what length does the cable become useless?
I think it was around 500 feet @rustic pine
Ok
but you shouldnt really have to worry about the ethernet cable becoming slower if you are just gonna have it go 20 or 30 feet
That’s what I was thinking but my dad said the internet would bleed out by then
Makes sense to me cause then it’s like. “What about buildings and stuff”
yeah lolo
@rustic pine max length of normal cat6 cable is 90-100 meters, depending on how you look at it
@austere ginkgo see above
heh
Ok thank you @strange perch
Put that in a school pc
oof
The problem with putting that in a school pc is that then i wouldn't want to leave school.
@fiery ivy go to #links-and-selfpromotion for that. Absolutely no selfpromotion elsewhere


