#windows-ios
1 messages · Page 9 of 1
Because i'm feeling risky about that trash phone that i'm willingly risking to try something new
because of that:
info: Windows update finally made itself useful
Finally not being trash
The "safest" site would probably be the official Android SDK but I always keep a few different device specific ones handy.
Trying to update an old, Windows 7 laptop. Anywhere to get Windows 10 licenses still? Oh, that aren't $250
Windows 10 uses the same licence as windows 7 you're good to go
So does win 11(at this stage just update to that if possible imo)
‘Tis just better now
So my same Product ID for Windows 7 will work with Windows 10?
I'll try it!
You can use this to retrieve the actual key instead of having to do an upgrade install that might not work.
https://www.magicaljellybean.com/downloads/keyfinder.zip
@cinder mauve The only answer we can officially give here is to buy a full retail key from a major retailer
We cannot discuss specifics of grey market sites here
Oh, forgive me. I'm sorry.
Damn it's been like 10 years since windows 7 was eol
Wife's laptop. Found it in the top of the closet 😂
Long enough for 8 and almost 10 to become deprecated
Fr
Do you have any particular use for it? I would probably recommend Linux for a laptop as old as that lol
Maybe you'll end up liking Linux enough to switch to it lmao
I was thinking Linux or Ubuntu
Oh yeah 😎
it's all debian
Especially if it's old, it will likely have an easier time running Linux than modern windows
debian? I thought you were american
Chrome OS is better than linux, for general use
For toddlers and grandparents, perhaps.
Linux Mint is quite easy to get setup and use
to be fair, chromeos also now has a linux terminal support
though if you want to learn linux, chromeos is too
uhh
what is the name for it
simplified?
Dumbed down
Also giving google access to everything I do on my pc is a little eww
I suppose the same could be said for Microsoft
I trust them slightly more though
What if I told you... you didn't have to? And that you can disable nearly all of the data collection that M$ does?
I think I have most of it off, at least whatever's easy to do
Wth
Tell
This is what I'd call a "level 1" disabling script, anything higher increases the risk of breaking your install. This should be 100% safe because it uses Windows built in features.
Run as Admin.
When my pc is built, I shall remember this
Windows update actually took care of that.
and it finally was useful.
is there a way to download my product key or retrieve it to a usb drive
Ty
That can retrieve and save your license key for both windows and office products in the free version
Ok
I recently bought a dedicated GPU to replace my integrated GPU. I uninstalled the AMD software and tried to install a new one using adrenaline but there are errors. Do I have to also uninstall the AMD chipset driver and reinstall a new one?
Might try DDU
?DDU
DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) Guide by Pato
https://github.com/NeweggTechie/Graphics-cards/wiki/How-to-use-DDU
My wifi button isn’t showing up does anyone know why? The only buttons that show up are night light and accessibility
Probably the driver misbehaving. Does the wireless card show up in device manager?
New build? Or did it suddenly disappear
New builds, install WLAN drivers
Old builds, uninstall WLAN drivers and install fresh, maybe reseat the nic if it isn't built into the board
If it doesn't show up in device manager, and it's soldered on the board, try reinstalling windows, and if that doesn't work, RMA
I just got a little problem with my pc, i was trying to figure out why the wifi dongle want working so i unplugged it and when i plugged it back in, its light didn't work. Tried moving ports and as i removed the hub with kb % mouse that stopped working too.
I restart the pc and it takes a long time to. Ends up giving me the bsod "driver power state failure" before rebooting.
Anything i have to worry about?
They were all on that same hub? Sounds like it just died, it happens
Nope, not the same hub. The wifi dongle is directly on the mb i/o, k&m dongle + bt dongle are on a hub. It all started as i unplugged the wifi one because it didnt show up after standby
Ok, so it's possible that a misbehaving/failing USB device caused a surge on the USB ports, taking other devices with it
They're all fine now, after the reboot obviously
Not sure why this happened but i guess the wifi dongle is the problem as it always had issues connecting to the wifi every once in a while
Then the protections on the motherboard worked and the surge was contained
€40 mobo did its job
If it detects a short on the USB ports it shuts off the USB
Well, Asrock listed a ton of things on the mb box about electrical protection, esd, surge protection and a bunch of other things
At least those work
grrrr
why is dns not going to my other vms
windows server nslookup: works
linux server in same subnet: doesnt work
linux router in different subnet: works
windows client in own subnet: doesnt work
this is how big business decisions should be planned
server subnet is 172.17.26.0/24
router subnet is 192.168 something
client subnet is 10.something
I want to see this in the head office at microsoft
why hire graphic designer when mspaint does the trick
frfr
💯
oh wait nvm linux server nslookup works as well
AYOI
it works
i thought it wasnt a firewall rule problem but it ended up being
a firewall rule problem
💀
iptables -F saved the day
I run a very light version of Windows 10 on a small client pc, and it constantly gives me the message "couldn't install updates" because there isn't enough space on the drive. I've already disabled update services but still tries downloading the updates, fails, and I get the message every time. Is there a particular service or instance I have to kill in order to stop this?
Not sure. Windows doesn’t exactly super disabling updates
Windows only allows you to disable updates for a short period of time
Yesn't
Group policy

You can break the windows medic service and that will stop enabling win update for good, wouldn't recommend tho, depending on your windows version you can stop updates tho
I disabled that service since I thought it was the cause of the continuous messages. Just disabled it, not sure what you mean with breaking it
In my experience that setting tends to reset itself, or simply be ignored
Try this first
Really? Maybe depends on windows version but GP should rule everything else
Can also limit versions with a diff settings
Should being the operative word there. When has Windows ever done what it should?
Valid, i just love group policy 🙃
Thanks, ill try my best to disable these updates once for all
If not you can break windows medic service then disable windows update service
But eh idk if you can undo the break if you need to update it or run things that require the medic service
The best way I know is to host a Windows update server that constantly reports "no updates" and redirect Windows to that. This requires pro version or higher.
Downside is this requires Windows server, at least on a VM if not a separate machine
https://learn.microsoft.com/en-us/windows-server/administration/windows-server-update-services/deploy/1-install-the-wsus-server-role
You can spoof it with Linux, because of course you can, but that's extra work
Okay so
Regedit : HKLM\SYSTEM\CurrentControlSet\Services\WaaSMedicSvc
Modify the start key to be 4 instead of 3
Then right click the waaSMedicSvc folder, click permissions, click on system then deny full control, and click apply
Try the group policy first tho
This should be it?
That's how you break windows medic service, basically windows update should never be auto reenabled
i keep getting a system thread exception bsod caused by ntoskrnl, what can i do
That's a tricky one to diagnose since it can be caused by any kernel mode driver (which is most of them) and can also be from hardware
If you zip up the contents of C:\Windows\Minidump and DM it to me I can see if there's a common link mentioned in the crash dumps
(there's no personal info in the files, just debug stuff)
Well I need to install windows 7 in a virtual machine so while we wait for that, we can start basic troubleshooting @pearl pebble
To start, do you have anything overclocked? XMP on for memory?
xmp on for memory, yes
thats about it
Actually that kit in particular is known to need a little extra voltage sometimes
But for now disable xmp and see if it still crashes
I almost have the debugger installed too so I'll look at that in a minute
Finally was able to analyze the dumps.
Because each one is a different error and one of them is memory_management, I strongly believe the memory to be the cause.
If it works fine with XMP off then you can add a bit of voltage and see if that helps with stability. If not then you can RMA it.
Tfw legacy software 
Windows XP still haunts me
no idea how to mess with voltage so ill just disable expo
I can walk you through the voltage if disabling expo fixes it. It's easy, just 2 things to change on 2 menus.
If disabling expo doesn't fix it, then I'd recommend taking advantage of that sweet g.skill lifetime warranty.
no bsods so far after disabling expo
can someone analyze my minidumps
Sure, DM them to me
If we want to install an old HDD drive that has windows, and a current drive that also has windows, how do we ensure in bios that the old drive I’m adding doesn’t conflict with each other? If I set one drive as a primary boot already, will it just treat the other drive as storage only? (I have MSI Z90 motherboard)
Enable SATA hot plug on the port in bios and have the drive power plugged in when you boot. Once you're in Windows, plug in the SATA data cable.
That old drive with windows won’t interfere with the current windows I have as long as the bios already has a primary drive?
It won't interfere if it doesn't have the data cable plugged in when you boot
Just be sure to enable hot plug, it's been a standard feature for decades but you need to enable it
So after I find the setting for hotplug under sata configurations in bios, save and exit so it boots up, and only connect the sata cable after windows is booted up?
And what happens if I turn off my computer and turn it back on as it is still connected? Do I need to do eject drive (when it isn't reading or writing anything of course) before turning off the computer every time then repeat letting windows boot up and connect it again?
Also just to let you know, I have one working SSD, I have to take out the other SSD but I have been worried since it isn't working and I don't want to take out the wrong one (idk if it would mess up my windows)
I looked at a video just now, the smaller part of the sata cable is the data cable and the larger part of the sata cable is the power cable
Hot plug allows you to plug and unplug the data cable safely. The power should always be connected. You aren't required to remove/eject it. I recommend that you clean and format the drive once you get it loaded up in Windows, then you don't need to worry about it at all.
Okay awesome! Well the thing is, I have files on that drive that are important, but since the data cable will only be connected after boot ups, then it is acts a storage drive only?
In that case, what you can do is delete the boot and recovery partitions from the HDD. You can do it in disk management. That way your data is intact and it can't mess with your current install.
That would also make it act as a pure storage drive
What would be the proper steps starting from when I would connect my sata drive? Power cable for sata connected, and go into bios and we can delete the boot and recovery partitions for the specific drive?
- Power cable connected, data cable disconnected, hot plug enabled in bios. Turn on the power and wait for Windows to boot.
- Plug in the SATA data cable and wait for Windows to detect and load it.
- Open disk management (right click the start button) and find the HDD. Delete the smaller partitions from the drive, they're unnecessary for a storage drive.
- (optional) Delete the Windows folder from the HDD to save disk space
- Continue to use the drive as you would normally. No need to disable hot plug or disconnect cables any more.
You are a legend!! Thanks so much for being patient because this is extremely helpful!! This was exactly what I needed to make sure my computer is safe🙌 I will do this soon and let you know if I need any help with the bios.
I was curious about something and wanted your advice. If I had a corrupted drive with data on an SSD, who would be able to repair it if I shipped it online? It basically can't read or write anymore and was showing up before in total commander, but now the drive needs to be formatted. So is it dead and there is no technician that can repair it? I would be willing to pay top dollar for that service in the future
There's dedicated recovery shops that can try to desolder the chips and read the raw data, but that's expensive and has no guarantee of working. Another way is to repair or replace whatever is damaged on the SSD. If the controller is bad then you'd have to replace that with an identical controller with the same firmware version.
Okay I’ll definitely look into that, thanks for giving me different options! Even though it’s never 100% for sure, at least there is a chance🙏
anyone know how to disable windows auto turn on my pc?
Well there is always just shutting it down, thats what I do anyway
You might be able to change the time it updates as well
i don’t shut it down every night tho. the only time i shut down my pc is if i know i won’t use it for more than 24 hours
You could try tweaking the sleep states in bios, as well as wake timer sources
Hey quick question! I have a Lian Li lancool II and it’s a nice tower but it is very tight which is the downside of it. Very hard to access the drive in one of the HDD holders, so can I just take out the front fans of the tower out just for this one boot up so I can insert the data cable in, and then after I do the steps you mentioned earlier, I’ll put back the front fans in? I have fans on the inside of the fan at the top, back of the tower, and one at the bottom so I should still have enough airflow even though I want to temporarily take out the front three right?
I can only put the data cable in if the front fans are out so I was thinking of taking them out for now so I can plug the data cable in after booting up and then plug the fans back in afterwards
That will be fine. You only need the extra airflow when you're stressing the system, like when you're gaming.
Sweet, thanks!!
page fault in non paged area whenever I try to open fortnite
turn off the monitor (it might not be the updates, but it could even just be messages)
also honestly with modern systems, there isnt much of a reason to leave your pc on (ok i leave mine on 24/7 but do as i say, not as i do)
new build? or randomly started occurring? any hardware changes?
the issue is fixed now but i still get bsods often
still page faults? or different errors?
If there is only EFI partition and no boot partition for the drive, is deleting that the same as deleting the boot partition or would it be better to delete the windows folder and delete the recovery partition and keep the EFI partition? Will deleting the EFI partition mess with loading up the storage?
efi partition is required to boot, it isnt the boot partition though
for example, my boot partition is for whatever reason combined with my basic data parition, and i have no clue why
the efi system is for boot and recovery basically
i would recommend you delete all partitions on the drive then reformat the whole thing into a single partition
anyone know if gemeni had access to websites before? I tried asking it to go grocery shopping but it said it couldnt access websites
Thanks!
I did see some people have that where the boot is mixed in the data drive. Thankfully mine wasn’t 🙏
Yeah I have no clue why mine did that
I didn't mess with the partitioning settings
It just decided to put everything in there
anyone know how to fix this? dont know if its related but my pc has gotten a bit laggyer since this happend
(ping on games is over 1k)
vise vera this but yeah
also tabs are super slow
What do you mean?
Its All Fine...
No Problem?
All my games where on high ping and something said to check internet speed
I assumed it was that since I checked it before and my upload was around the same as download
Other apps are working fine with the internet?
This looks quite good
Quite unlikely to be the cause of any issues
That I can tell yes
But pages either don't load all the way or take a very long time to
Hmm
Every page you go to? Even YouTube?
Hmm
Hmm do you know what your usual upload speed is?
7
Download is around 300
Oh
then yeah idk if there are any issues with the internet speed
Usual
oh
Before I got around 150-250
Using Internetspeedtest site
Or something along that name
hmm
there are alot of those lmao
is it speedtest.net
I think
try running a speedtest on that again
Alr I will when I get home
it's quite hard to tell if you have interenet issues just from a speed test, because ISPs dont always give the same amount of bandwidth for upload as download
seems to have fixed itself
ill let you know if it starts up again
also got 50 upload on speedtest.net
6 with googles
might have been an isp issue in that case
happens occasionally
Not sure if anyone can answer this as it’s not related to components. Would anyone know why Desktop Windows Manager uses my GPU? A significant percentage too
Windows effects, such as animated closing and "show window contents while moving" will use the GPU to accelerate. If you're looking at task manager then it's only showing you part of the story. It may be using, say, 10% of the GPU, but the GPU itself is in an idle state at minimum clock speeds so that's only 10% of 400MHz on nvidia cards.
Overclocking would help?
No, it's not a problem at all. Overclocking would only apply in higher power modes anyway.
If you want a better idea of how much the GPU is being used, look at hwinfo instead of task manager.
Odds are that will show 1-2% usage
Hello guys. I noticed that there are two kinds of audio drivers. Whats the difference between these two?
They're the same device, just different types of outputs. The onboard audio usually has many output types.
I'd like some recommendations on how to properly use a windows 10 drive for the various computers I have to test. I know windows likes to install some drivers automatically, but since I'm going to use different hardware I might run into conflicts. So how can I install drivers and then move to another machine without any problems?
Set them all up for "Windows To Go" and you install the drivers on each machine, with your drive you move around having your user data and such.
Alternatively you can set up a disk image with a custom Windows installer that has all the drivers you expect to need prepared, and when it boots the first time it just selects what you need. You'd need a NTlite license for that I think.
You could set up network pxe boot with such an image too, with no permanence so it runs entirely in memory.
The ideal option depends on your exact circumstances, who owns the computers, if you have a server you can set up pxe on, etc
What do you mean with set them "all" up? I don't understand
Btw I currently have made an install of normal windows 10 pro on a hdd and I was planning on just moving that one between the different machines, is it possible or do you still recommend the to-go thing?
I should buy some 64/128 gigs USBs and some ssds because SD cards are not ideal
Each computer to be used with WTG needs a hard drive that's been prepared for it already installed, and the only thing on the "travel" drive is your user profile
What you could do if that's not an option is a combination of the above. Make a WTG bootable PXE that sets up the hardware unattended, so all you have to do is tell the motherboard where the PXE server is, load it, wait a bit, and plug in your travel drive.
Or... go the easy route and use Linux USB boot
It's unlikely whatever tests you need to do can't be done in Linux
You could even set up a script that runs all the tests automatically in terminal back to back
128GB storage device (whether you take USB or SSD, as I recommend, you should use SSD as they are faster at speed(read and write)than USB drive)is enough for windows and your some useful applications.
He's simply testing his stuff with whatever he had at hand
The question is to actually figure out how to easily test multiple machines with WTG
Not asking for storage reccs for running one install
Get a new IP from your ISP
ISP or Internet Service Providers are responsible for assigning residential IP addresses to users like you and me. ISPs usually assign one IP address per household but it is possible to request an additional IP address from another location. But this is probably the least recommended option as the cons greatly outweigh the pros. All-in-all, this is a more expensive and less effective endeavor than the other options above.
This option could result in many issues and headaches including:
- Assigning new addresses to old services
- Changing DNS servers so that they now point to your new IP addresses
- You would need to ensure that the access rules work properly (i.e. a lot of firewall work)
- Considering the quantity of changes that need to be made and addressed, one could easily make a mistake like skipping an entry and then the whole network you have built topples like a row of dominos
In a home network context, how true are the above statements ?
Is it really necessary to update/reconfigure all firewall rules ?
None
Assuming that you're the average home user
If you're running servers, VPNs, and specific firewall rules for specific subnets or specific addresses
Then that would be true
But you will almost always only have a dynamic public IP from your isp
yup thanks for your response
and some people said the PC/Windows firewall would not know/use public/private IP,
so the firewalls rules won't specify an IP address
I did once try an automated script that blocks apps folders from incoming/outgoing connections,
but it only seemed to create rules blocking exe and dlls, and didn't seem to mention anything about IP iirc
that is just completely wrong; if you have a server hosted in your house, and you only want specific devices to access it, then you will be able to set private addresses into the firewall, e.g. accept incoming 192.168.5.0/26, drop incoming all
so that only devices in the 192.168.5.0/26 subnet can connect
though it's true that external servers wont be able to block off specific private addresses behind a different NAT
also hmm i'm not too sure if there is a method for blocking files/apps with firewall; normally you are setting firewalls to allow specific subnets, deny ports, allow ports, allowing ports from a specific source, turning off icmp requests, etc.
oh yeah i should also specify that you dont need to add ip addresses to firewall rules
it's just so that you can reduce the attacks people can do, as the firewall would drop all packets that dont match
windows firewall I meant
once the script is run and a directory is chosen,
I can see it creating blocking rules in firewall window
for all the exe and dll files apparently
I've checked a few of the properties windows and the only place mentioning IP is the "Scope" tab, which does not specify IP, just "Any IP Address", so ig I'm good there
hmm
oh yeah, there was a program scope, i forgot about that; i never use this scope honestly lmao
I'd only done it once when I first installed this Windows few years back
just played around blocking any apps I deem no business having an internet connection hah
lmao
if you have a server
nope no server yet
nothing self hosted, I don't feel confident enough to secure something like that
just a router
also your pc firewall rules aren't going to be affecting this
no subnets, no VLANs yet tho I should look into it
your line of defense is basically just your router's firewall
which may or may not have the proper rules set
normally it should though
think I left it at defaults
vlans will require a managed switch, not too much point in using them without one, and you'll need different subnets if you have vlans, so you'll also need a router that supports vlans
feels like I want to "harden" it more though
I did see a VLAN tab and was wondering if it's possible to create wireless VLANs without a physical (layer 3?) switch
using a single router
vlans are a layer 2 feature, but most layer 2 switches on consumer hardware arent managed, so you cant make vlans
maybe I should look into WRT variants or something ?
iirc I did buy one that's wrt compatible
hmm, if your router has a vlan tab, it might support tagging?
I think so I did see tagging
yeah, then you should be able to do a router on a stick setup with a cheap managed l2 switch
whatever that means, I know nothing about networking,
only binged an animated series on basic networking yesterday 🥹
I see so still need to buy another device
so a single link can communicate with different vlans
yeah, most all in one routers ususally cant split their interfaces into different vlans at least from what i've seen
though yours natively support vlans so maybe it's different?
ig I'll have to check its manual
and see if I can find any tutorial specifically for it
also technically speaking, if you enable ap isolation, every connected device is basically in its own vlan (this is commonly used in public wifi spaces to prevent people from connecting to other devices, but this messes with smart home devices)
AP isolation 🤔 thanks another term to look into
I do basically want to secure my home network better
segmenting networks and stuff, like creating guest network
too many devices
ap isolation doesnt really matter for your main network; you should seperate your WLAN with different SSIDs (e.g. guests with ap isolation enabled, and a private network so you can actually connect to any printers in your house or such; this is supported by most modern all-in-one routers)
i dont see too much reason to seperate your home network into multiple vlans for the most part; unless you have an IP securty camera setup; you may want to put that in a vlan with only the cameras on it, with no internet access
and only give the NVR internet access if you want to be able to access it remotely
amazing network diagram
lmfao
no security cameras yet but I should consider
anyways, networking is always a balance between security and convenience
you can have the most secure infrastructure possible, but the more secure it gets, the more inconvenient it is to use
so you would want to have it be only as secure as you need it to be
it's annoying to defend ourselves esp if being a target
I hear a common phrase that malicious actors usually have the upper hand
it is always cheaper to attack a system than to defend it
defenders have to be always right, while attackers only need to be lucky once
and yeah for sure
and bad actors don't care about rules and regulations, or morals
and the best attackers are much more efficient/more highly skilled than defenders 🥲
but for home use, you dont really have any assets of significant value that can be stolen with just hacking
realistically your biggest concern is just physically securing your house, rather than virtually
usually we just talk about financial gains,
but then I realized there's a completely separate group of perps
namely trolls and a--h-les, p-rvs/cre-ps, psyc--s, everyday sad*sts and stalkers,
determined to make ur life miserable
so personal data seem to be huge too
thanks again I'll see if I could get a new public IP later lel
It is rumoured that Windows 12 will only allows PCs and laptops with NPU is it true or it's just FUD
if you check your router, on the wan page, if it says dhcp then you have a dynamic IP, so just restarting your router will change your ip
it wouldnt really make sense, but idk
no way to say for sure, and the people who may actually know would be under NDA
Yeah if it is true it would butcher many existing PCs and older laptops
According to https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/236773/intel-core-i9-processor-14900k-36m-cache-up-to-6-00-ghz.html even i9 14900K doesn't have NPU
ya I've tried a few times,
maybe it has to stay unplugged longer until the lease expires which I've no idea how long
in the router it says 24hs, ipconfig /all shows about 1.5 days,
but then I realize it's the ISP's DHCP server who assigns public IP
and I've no idea how long their lease is
hmm
ipconfig /all would be your own dhcp server's lease time
the router estimate is probably more accurate
most ISPs i see have what i believe is called "sticky leases" which means you keep your ip as long as the router doesnt turn off
maybe I could also try plugging an old router for like an hour
then plug the current one back in
instead of MAC spoofing
What is confirmed by insiders and Microsoft is that future versions of Windows will require the CPU to support POPCNT instruction
Windows 11 won’t let you to move the taskbar to sides of the screen any more that sucks I tried editing registry binary values but it keeps reverting back
In Feedback Hub 30 000+ upvotes but M$ don't give a [____] except for "Thank you for the feedback"
Factory reset them from your iphone
is there a way to figure out the exact windows version and perhaps the edition if i have an external hdd with all the windows data in it?
- separate question: is it normal that in windows 10 if i left click a file/folder and quickly right click it to show the "actions" window it instantly disappears? i mean like 100ms between the two clicks and it happens. if i wait like half a second it just opens normally
i'm referring to this windows if that wasn't clear
Open the system32 folder and open the properties of ntdll.dll. The details tab shows the Windows "product version" which you can search to find the exact installed Windows version.
Thank you
It's probably reading that as a double click for whatever reason, you can adjust the mouse double click timer settings and see if that helps
Not sure why it would considering they are two different buttons on the mouse
Ok, I'll give it a try
this is literally not upgrading experience, but downgrading
Ngl I havent used side taskbar since windows 7
The only time I had the taskbar anywhere but the bottom was to see that windows could do that
lmao
i used to daily drive taskbar on right side of the screen
it was... ok
i think i prefered it on top of my screen rather than on the sides of the screen
That's one of the reasons I don't like Mac and linux
The taskbar is on top
And on the bottom at the same time?
Idk computers are weeed
Weird
on an unrelated note, i hate how one of my applications requires wsl/hyperv to be disabled
and the other one (Docker) requires it to be enabled lmao
i gotta spin up a vm for it ig
one is for eve-ng
other one is docker engine
grrrrr
is there any practical use of Windows 11 for Workstations it seems to be to the most consumers can legally get without volume licensing
There's uses for it but odds are you'll never use the extra features
you'll need it specifically for cpus that have more than i believe it was 16 cores
and if you want to use more than... was it 64gb ram? or 128gb ram
and if you want to use reFS
ah ok
128gb ram is the max for windows 11 home
2tb ram is the max for windows 11 pro or education
6gb ram is the max for windows 11 pro workstation or enterprise
windows 11 home only support single socket motherboards, and 64 cores
windows 11 pro supports dual socket motherboards, and 128 cores
windows 11 pro workstation supports quad socket motherboards, and im unsure about the max cores for this
No one in their right mind should use this
lmao
Why is reFS bad
Put simply, poor performance, and there's free alternatives with more options and better overall everything.
some stupid person is likely trying to ddos my mc server for no reason, multiple similar public ip adresses sending packets or strings and giving out errors, i googled up one of the ips and this came up. I guess they're just using some software to slightly annoy the incoming network traffic. I've tired blocking it from windows firewall but it seems to not work. any ideas and or solutions?
You can block the IP from the router so it doesn't even reach your server. I'd also recommend installing ddos protection on your router. Install custom firmware if you have to.
also it's probably a good idea to use different port numbers and whitelists/blacklists. There are some people that run scanners that look for mc servers. Not really sure why they do that
That's a good point. Do a wildcard blacklist and just whitelist people you want to have access.
Not really sure why they do that
Because they're eggplants.
Or it's this dude, who's pretty cool. https://matdoes.dev/matscan
I don't understand either why they do that. Even if it's one of my friend playing some useless joke it's not funny at all
It's a whitelisted private mc server we play together.
I need the cmd windows to not have all the "ddos" spamming so I can access logs easily if I need to
And all those messages gonna end up creating gigabyte sized logs if things don't change
Guess I'll try to block the ips directly from the router as you said. I will likely need some help for that
It's almost certainly not a friend
There genuinely is just for whatever reason people scanning every IP specifically to look for vulnerable Minecraft servers (or ssh) to attack
Which is why you may want to move ssh into a different port, so that people scanning for port 22 won't be able to just do a dictionary attack
And also disable password logins
A friend of mine once did that for "fun" but he stopped as I told him
Btw it's not even a decent ddos, it's like 1 packet every few minutes or seconds
I remember there was a way to scan every public ip for port like 21-22 iirc
And do you move ssh to another one?
Does that compromise anything else?
Ik but there are brief periods of time where I receive many more and the whole cli is flooded
I currently don't have any public ssh ports so I haven't moved it
Also no, it shouldn't compromise anything else
All moving the port does is prevent scanners specifically targeting the default ssh port from finding your ssh port
If someone does a full port scan on your IP, then they'll see your ssh port
But at that point it's a targeted attack
I'm looking through the confusing gui of my modem-router and i just found out something i probably got wrong all this time:
I've always had open ports for WOL (for my server and other devices) and sometimes it didn't work properly. I had tested it a few times by using my phone mobile data and the light on the LAN port was flashing as i tried to wake the server up.
Today i checked some other ports i had opened before and I asked myself what tcp and udp was... since that should be something to know when working with routers and port forwarding
Thats when i realized the wol port was set to udp
Haha. NO. Literally no. I'm stupid. Because ftp needs a response from the sleeping machine, that... well... is sleeping. So no response and no wake up
Btw i haven't found much about blocking ips on the router
lmao
alot of consumer routers doesnt really allow firewall rules, or they're very rudimentary
I hope this isn't considered necroposting,
but thought I'd piggyback on this search result with keywords "standard account"
My question is how do u guys go about controlled/managed/privileged access ?
(*) At the most basic:
- 1 admin account for admin stuff like software installations,
- 1 standard user account for daily usage
Correct ?
and if so, considering there is currently 1 single account with admin privilege,
is it preferred to enable the built-in administrator account,
or keep that disabled, but create a new account, so that either way the (*) scenario is met
honestly, either the built in or a new account would be fine imo
*for home use
if you have AD, then you would probably want an administrative account for each admin, and not one shared one
similar with linux
disable the root account login, and use sudo for everything that requires root access
gotcha thanks
I just got another look at this and consensus seems to be that built-in admin is fairly vulnerable to brute force attacks,
and should be kept disabled / mainly used for setup and recovery purposes
it's only honestly important for AD deployments, but without AD you can easily see both accounts and brute force via that, since that's the only other account on the system
ya for home/local use only my guess much less likely
of course, it does help prevent attacks specifically targeted specifically towards the administrator account, but it doesnt really matter too much for a home user
yeah
and also shared credentials is a pretty big no no
but since you're probably the only one needing admin access, one admin account is enough
so many users wanna do away with passwords completely and just auto login the moment they turn the machine on hah
ig these types of users only use desktop OSes for things they can't do/less convenient on their phones
honestly i like not having a password either, and that can be solved with windows hello
oh right I'll have to ask them to set it up when I give them this new laptop of theirs
would be nice if they implement MFA for desktop logons too
you do need a webcam either built in or external that is windows hello compatible though
looks like Microsoft Authenticator doesn't work with local logons
ya it's a surface laptop with webcam
honestly speaking, for local logins, mfa doesnt really matter too much
physical security is more important
more so if they also sign in to their MS account I assume
aka dont get the laptop stolen lmao
fr hah
realistically the laptop is probably worth more than the data on it
at least to the person stealing it
this is off topic,
but it does make me wonder what to do if ur forced to give up passwords to ur bank accounts at wrench/knife/gun point 💀
i mean, just give it to them at that point
unless you value your money more than your life
real, not that I've looked up the stats but luckily the average robbers don't seem to be that sophisticated
There's a reason for that.
Local accounts store your password as a hash in the registry, so anyone with either registry access or physical access can retrieve that hash, and even change it. That's been a major vulnerability in Windows for decades, but it's not an attack vector used very often. I have used it to change my password when I forgot it before, and helped a friend do the same on an old PC.
Microsoft accounts will only temporarily store your password, and I don't know of a way to attack that one. Windows Hello requires you to have internet access to verify no account details changed, like your account getting locked or a password change.
If you're going to use local accounts, I recommend enabling bitlocker on your system partition so the registry is encrypted with everything else.
Or some other method of encryption like veracrypt.
nice insight thanks
I've heard of horror stories with Bitlocker but ig it just means gotta be careful backing things up
Keep your recovery key written down or printed somewhere you won't lose it, and you're fine
in some cases people say it's enabled by default without automatically saving the recovery key and locks people out
That's usually OEM systems that will do that
good reminder I should check this laptop for that before the owner blames it on me lel
Yep Surface devices I would call OEM
I got bitlocker on my laptop when it was brand new
got a mem management bsod, anyone wanna check out the minidump file
Not much point, memory management is only ever one of 3 things:
Bad overclock / XMP on memory
Bad CPU / BIOS settings
Extremely misbehaving OS
Can TestMem5 @anta777 extreme report false errors?
If the program itself is corrupted yes
i got some other bsod this time
wasnt mem management
Bad memory can cause every kind of blue screen
The fact that it triggered memory management at all means it's pretty bad
if ive exhausted the expo option, u said adding voltage helps right
Yep that's one of the known problem kits
how would i go about adding voltage
It'll be in BIOS, under an overclocking menu
You want to increase Memory VDD, VDDQ, and VDDIO all to 1.37v.
Also increase CPU SoC to 1.2v
Do you have expo on? It's at default voltages
It won't apply until you reboot
What bios version are you on
Ok that is the latest version too
Something is screwy if it's not loading expo profiles
Next thing I would do is reseat the memory modules
And clear CMOS
Did you clear cmos and reseat already?
Hay question
Let's say you have a task but your PC dosent utiles the components to max why is that
Could be any number of things. There could be a bottleneck on any one of a dozen components, or even the program itself.
You see game engine bottlenecks sometimes, when a game doesn't go above a certain fps even though it's not stressing the pc much.
one example could be that an application only utilized a single thread, and hasnt been optimized for multithread (alot of older software is like this, including minecraft)
Windows 11 24h2 is reported to block third party customization apps
There's a lot more than just that. Even some Microsoft first party programs are blocked.
https://www.neowin.net/news/here-are-the-apps-that-could-block-you-from-upgrading-to-windows-11-version-24h2/
The apps only block you from upgrading so you can uninstall anything causing issues, upgrade, and then install them again. The reason Microsoft gave is these are apps that are sensitive to Windows edition changes that may crash or otherwise fail.
It's also worth noting that they can distinguish between newer and older versions of these programs, so for the Radeon Software, for example, they can block only older versions with known issues.
is anyone avaiable to assist.
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/dXVZ34
This is the part list a friend got and they are trying to install windows 11 pro but it said it does not meet the requirments
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 7600X, GeForce RTX 4070, Lian Li O11 Dynamic Mini Snow Edition ATX Mid Tower
TPM 2 is enabled in bios, and should have the hardware requirments and the drive is visible
this has no OS installed as it is a new build
there are 2 options that need to be enabled in bios; tpm and secure boot
okay ill have them check secure boot thank you
that worked thank you
Np
No@thankyou.com is no longer working! It only tells you to reset password and cannot be used for bypassing ms account on OOBE
Microsoft starts doing this again
To force people into signing up to their online accounts
There's free temporary email address services, and it's easy enough to make an account you only use to sign in on the PC. The majority of the data collection can be disabled.
We've got a powershell script pinned that does just that.
I've always done the good old oobe/bypassnro
idk, it worked for me for making vms still just a few weeks ago
though my iso is probably a bit old now
lemme see what iso version i have
nah it's the current iso version
updates to the multi window manager or whatevert his thing is called :)
left one auto selects my other browser window as the right side and the one I'm dragging as the left, instead of needing another click on the right side of the monitor
Is there a way to merge two hdd partitions with data in them in win10?
Maybe macrium has a feature that allows to do this
Like remove the partition and keep the data of both on one?
Yea
Basically make one single partition using the entire hdd size
I was thinking of moving the data to the main partition, then delete the one where i moved the data from, finally extend the main one with the unallocated space (iirc thats possible in windows). Problem is that i dont have enough space to move all the data to the main one in one go
Without additional software, I'm not sure
Generally you'll have to move the data of one partition, delete that partition, then extend the other partition and put the data back on
Thats exactly what i was thinking of doing, but the main partition (where I want all the data to be in) has barely 10gb left, so there's no chance i can move the other 50gb from the other one
I could use a usb drive and store those 50 gigs of data then simply delete that partition and extend the main one, ill then put the saved data back in
If I use the usb drive its going to take a lot of time to transfer all the smaller files because the hdd is quite slow
Alternatively you could compress some data and see if that frees up enough space, but it'll still take a long time on a hard drive
Good video editing software?
you could try davinci resolve
If you have a mac, final cut pro or even iMovie was decent
For windows, free version of DaVinci resolve is great, and the paid version is a one time purchase (and is one of the industry standard video editors)
Other free alternatives on windows exists but most don't stack up to DaVinci resolve
Premiere pro has some things better than DaVinci resolve, which is that they're tightly integrated with the other Adobe apps, and apparently can edit 360 video better (I've never done this) but also requires a costly subscription, so unless you need premiere pro or other apps in the Adobe suite, stick with resolve
Oh yeah final cut is actually a pretty good deal if you on mac
I appreciate the information!
Will android 15 release in early 2025?
https://www.google.com/android/beta
Public beta is out already so probably late this year or early next
Android Beta Program allows you to enroll your Android device for beta releases.
Ok, ill force update my s21 to that whenever its released, i can wait half a year
That just reminded me that I wanted to install the emulator
Since I don't want to install it on my main phone
hey uh, big problem
downloaded an insyde firmware update while trying to troubleshoot some other stuff, now my laptop just won't boot at all
it turns on, the keyboard turns on, the fans blow for a little bit, and then it turns back off and goes dark
it does this on loop repeatedly until i force it to shut off, and the screen never turns on
Where did you get the update from
it was an optional windows update
i was trying absolutely everything to fix another issue with games, but that's unrelated
yeah "oh no" is a pretty accurate summary of the last 12 hours
Windows update is known to install bad laptop firmware occasionally
yeah this seems to be a common thing apparently
Only install bios updates directly from the laptop support page, this is far from the first I've seen this
well, any ideas?
If yes then RMA it, if not then you need a CH341 flash programmer
what on earth do either of those things mean
RMA = return merchandise authorization, when you send it to the manufacturer to repair
CH341 is a programming module that can be used to flash BIOS directly onto the chip containing the firmware
i'mma keep it a buck with you i have no idea how i'm supposed to do that
It's a fairly advanced thing so I'm not surprised
and my laptop isn't warrantied
fml
to think that i was only using this thing because my desktop recently quit too lmfao
Ok in that case the best thing to do would be to find a local repair shop that's willing and able to flash it
yeah uh, we don't have that
That would still be cheaper than replacing it
Mail it to one if you have to
$300 is still cheaper than $600+ to replace
Unless you want to try out soldering and attach the CH341 yourself
yeah i'll pass on that lmao
christ what an awful week this has been
I typically use a 4 digit pin on my windows machines; a few weeks ago my laptop mad me change it to a 6 digit pin. Today I got the message "your organization requires you to change your pin"
I do use the laptop for school (I use my school Microsoft account/Onedrive) but the windows account and login is all under my personal MS account.
I do know that sometimes when signing into MS programs with my school email it gives a checkbox to "allow organization to manage your pc" or something like that, so maybe I forgot to uncheck that once?
Yeah looks like I did accidentally give management to the school
lmao
tfw a pin is basically as secure as this
especially true if you dont have bitlocker or any other encryption method
If I had sensitive files I was worried about someone stealing off my laptop I would use something more secure
i just realized that tiered storage is supported on windows 10+, but it just doesnt have a gui for it
lmao
i thought it was a server only feature
well, built in windows server only feature
It's basically just storage spaces with extra steps
though i guess it also technically isnt officially supported on windows 10 or higher since theres not even a inkling of a gui for it, only powershell
Software RAID with a cache drive
yeah it uses windows storage spaces
erm do yall know how can i make it show the battery %? i reconnected them to my pc and now windows doesn't show my earbud's battery
Try pairing it again
If it's connected through wired mode, then you can't check the batt level
Windows is weird as well
I had a headphone that only reported the bat to my phone but windows was always stuck at 70%
On both devices
But phone was fine
It was strange
ive tried a couple of times
still nothing

i think it detects it as a headset instead bc this is what the icon should look like
and this is how it looks on mine
it shows up as a headset instead of wireless
windows bluetooth just sucks
I just cloned a win10 hdd to an ssd on the same pc, (using macrium).
I figured out how to change the boot order on a 10 year old hp bios and set the ssd as primary, I'd like to wipe the hdd since it's currently just a copy of the ssd.
I tried to do that but hdd wasn't responding and the whole pc was kind of locked. Restarted and it booted to the ssd but blank screen, only start menu shows up and windows sounds if I click with my mouse, only ctrlAltDel works but doesn't help.
I feel like it first worked as I changed the boot order but then wbm likely screwed up something with the drive letters... maybe? Since previously the hdd was c: and now the ssd is (hdd is now d:)
I unplugged the hdd and it booted fine. Not sure what to do now
Ok, so I just booted once with only the ssd plugged in. Plugged the hdd back in after, and it started working as usual. Wbm probably figured out that once only the ssd partitions were available (including the boot ones) it had to associate new ones (the correct ones from the ssd) as it was likely looking at the hdd previously.
I was able to format the hdd and now it should work fine. Removed any restore or reserved partition w diskpart
Can anyone help me I restarted my pc and now when I go to put my password in none of the letters work but when I type numbers they work until 4 when it for some reason is acting as enter. I am on a 60% keyboard. Also this is only happening on the Lock Screen when I hit forgot my password everything is back to normal. I have also reset the pc and let my pc reinstall windows but it’s happening again.
You're likely looking at the pin if its allowing for only 4 numbers and no letters. Not sure why windows asks for that one too, but you might have set it on this new windows install, I don't think it would set one on its own without any sort of notification
I know removing the pin is quite annoying in windows 10, and I have no idea on how it is like on w11 since I don't use it. If you need help for that there sure are other more skilled people than me
Yeah that's a pin, not a password
No it’s a password
It’s the Lock Screen
i mean the screen that only allows 4 numbers
idk if it is a bug or you set up a pin and didnt realize, or something like that which makes windows automatically pick pin when you're logging in
windows will introduce sudo on their commandline
its like to elevate a promp on non admin cmd xD
Omg I did do that and that is what it was to bad I already wiped everything off my pc and now have to reinstall everything 😭😭💀
That’s really annoying
Why would it mess with that 💀😭

8k
One message removed from a suspended account.
What processor do you have
One message removed from a suspended account.
Ok so it's not one of the known problem ones.
I'd recommend running the windows repair script from the pins
SFC and DISM are the options you want
Could anyone help…. Pc is not booting into windows… it staying stuck on the welcome screen and then after that it goes black but I can still see my mouse cursor
Try getting into safe mode and see if that works. You can set it up for a clean boot while you're there.
If you shut off the pc while it's trying to boot up a few times it will go into advanced startup as a failsafe. You can select advanced options, startup settings, troubleshoot. Then it will reboot and ask what mode to start in. Choose safe mode with networking, usually option 8.
What do you mean boot up. Like as soon as i click the power button shut it off?
Yes, after you see the bios splash screen and you see the spinning windows logo thing, shut it off by holding the power button
Also this problaby dosnt help that I don’t have internet right now
Or does that matter
It won't matter
Okay
As long as you have your account password, I don't remember if they let you sign in with a pin to safe mode
Once you're in safe mode you can press windows+R and type msconfig into the run dialog
On the general tab you can select "diagnostic startup" then hit ok. Let it restart when it asks.
Is there a way to change individual app icons to custom ones (like a .png/.ico... 1:1 image) on samsung s21?
And is it possible to use the samsung scientific part of the calculator without having to rotate the phone 90° in landscape mode?
It's really annoying having to rotate the phone every time to just use something like a root :|
I don't think there would be any changes on the app in Android 14, I'm still using 13
Apparently Google made a decent calculator, I'm using that one from now on
Not without root or modifying the apk
:[
Does DISM scan corrupted windows files the same as sfc scannow? Should I use it instead of sfc scannow?
Hi @vestal ibex where is the script ?
I am running in to a issue with a IMac that has windows.
When turning it on it comes with the black screen and a Mouse arrow on the screen only.
After a while it loads me in the windows but everything is zoomed in.
What I have research it looks like to be a gpu issue and windows explorer.
Sounds like a job for DDU
?ddu
DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) Guide by Pato
https://github.com/NeweggTechie/Graphics-cards/wiki/How-to-use-DDU
I'm not sure how much of that will apply to a Mac but it should be mostly the same
Was wondering if this was a graphics API for like a video game I have or if these are somehow leftover drivers from when I had a AMD GPU. I'm running an Intel and nvidia gpu now, and when I installed my nvidia GPU I used DDU to uninstall the old drivers so I thought they were all gone (this only showed up a least a couple weeks ago cause when I checked last this AMD program wasn't in my running tasks list).
It is part of the AMD drivers. It handles hotkeys.
How'd u go about adding+configuring all desired drivers/software programs to a Windows image,
which can then be backed up as a reference image,
and can be edited/updated,
so that it can be used in future restore/fresh installation ?
Use case: personal single-machine use,
current Win install has too many software / configs, that I can't afford to reinstall/reconfigure with a fresh install at the moment
ntlite
It lets you install updates, drivers, programs, debloat scripts, etc into a custom image.
Lots of other useful stuff too like auto skipping network config
naice thanks +1 for ntlite I'll look into that
someone recommended Disk2vhd to create a new VHD, save on a different drive,
fresh install, run that VHD in a VM,
then slowly port over
what do u think about that route ?
I've never used ntlite nor Disk2VHD so not sure what the differences would be
sounds good thansk I'll look for some YT tutorials
WhatsApp sucks. I get it, and it's getting worse over time.
Since I've moved to the s21 in early 2024, it just kept giving me problems with the media (photo, videos and audios). Basically I first moved all photos to the phone gallery (using smart switch and they all kept the right date), then I logged in with my whatsapp account and once done, a few hours after, it downloaded every single photo again to the gallery (all with the same date), so I had all duped photos and videos, ones with the actual right date and others with the same date.
I just kept the the duplicates waiting to have some spare time to remove them properly. I removed the duplicates last week.
Today, for some reason, all whatsapp media was downloaded once again, so I still have duplicates with date 12th may 2024.
Is there any way to solve this problem? It's quite annoying that I have to remove about 2000 photos and videos. I still want whatsapp to automatically save new photos to the gallery but not older ones that are already present
theres a setting in whattsapp to turn off downloading stuff to your camera roll... settings -> chats -> Media Visibity: show newly downloaded media in your camera roll... turn that off
idk why tf thats not in the storage section but yeah i hate that that feature is on by default
is there a way to turn off PC from automatcally turning on in the middle of the night due to updates?
i logged in and was wondering why and it looks like my pc is telling me to update
Sounds like it's not actually turning off, I'd say this would help
https://www.windowscentral.com/how-disable-windows-10-fast-startup
yo i have a windows for windows 11 home but it says that "the hardware of my device has changed" what does that mean
That means you need to run the activation troubleshooter and assign the key to your current device
@hearty shell
Is there any chance the microsoft display dock (intended for lumia 950) works with other devices too?
Chance? Sure. You won't know until you test it.
Anyone know any digital signage software that can display an output of a program and not a whole God damn desktop 😂
Most programs can display in full screen mode
Examples?
Open your web browser and press F11. It's usually either that hotkey or alt+enter for programs that support full screen.
If you want a real set of software for digital signs then maybe look at scalefusion or yodeck
Thanks!
tbh most digital signs i see ususally are just like, a bunch of pictures or videos on a usb lmao
Yeah basically a powerpoint slide show
Update Faker (updatefaker.com) is a harmless website to prank your friends, family or colleagues when they leave their computer unattended! It doesn't matter if they use Microsoft Windows, Apple OSX, or an older operating system, we've got you covered!
My boss just threw me the yodeck website yesterday before I asked my question loool
Tho, I'll also check out scalefusion as well, thanks
hii guys can anyone help me i have trouble updating windows
Was wondering if anyone might know of decent video upscaler app or if its even possible to make a video taken with the PSP's terrible 0.3 megapixel camera look good with any of them?
If you have a Nvidia GPU there's one built into the drivers
unfortunately using AMD atm, my 3070 finally kinda died ;_;
tbh I've never done it before 
Well there's this that has precompiled executables. Most of the filters are designed for anime because ofc they are, what other content made in 240p is still being watched.
Instructions https://github.com/k4yt3x/video2x/wiki
thanks, ill give it a go, found my ancient PSP from like 12 years ago and for some reason I totally forgot i took like 30 videos and almost 300 photos. It looks like the app does images too.
Upscalers will probably struggle with that low of an input
there are the paid upscalers like topaz labs, but i don't think you are looking to pay money
PSP cam was 1280x960 so that's better than most old anime, which those upscalers do ok with at 480p.
right, but I would assume part of the reason that works is because of the stylization/artstyle of anime
It's still 4x the amount of pixels to work with even if the sensor and such are bad. A nice sharpening filter should do fine.
Yeah it surprised me too when I looked it up
Though there are also other factors that play into how good captured photo/video will look
ohhhh
looks like the psp camera was like an attachment
not integrated into the body of the handheld
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HMVd_SinVmg
This says its 0.3mp, 640*480p
I happened to get a camera accessory as a bonus when I purchased a used PSP 3000.
Instead of using it for the game that it came with, I'm going to use it as if it were an actual digital camera.
The results didn't disappoint.
If you would like to help out the channel, here is some affiliate links.
Parts of the video filmed on my Neewe...
or for video, 480*272p 30fps
There's a silver version that does 960p stills but only 272p video
can you you bitdefnder with nord vpn
I saw 1.3MP on the developers wiki
https://www.psdevwiki.com/psp/Camera#:~:text=The camera mounts atop the,to record video with audio.
Playstation Development Wiki - PS5, PS4, PS3, PS2, PS1, PSP, Vita Information
As in use both VPNs at the same time? Yes but you'll actually end up less secure. It's better to use a VPN that supports multi hop.
can i disabled the bitdefnder vpn and replace it with nord vpn with no probem?
Yes
does bitdefider total internet security work with nord vpn with no probems ? do i need to change any settings ?
Not that I know of
Though I'd use Malwarebytes instead
And protonVPN
But obviously that's just me lol
@vestal ibex @arctic verge, Well yodeck is a bust and scalefusion isn't what I'm looking for, it's for the company I work for
About to say screw it and get a dedicated station for the tv's and route them to a mainframe computer
I would also use mwb and proton; or mullvad if you need more than free proton
Looks like steam is corrupt. Try reinstalling.
anyone know about vms?
i'm having problems with virtualbox
The thing boots but throws be into a weird bios interface shell that only accepts commands
Everything seems fine, except it doesn't want to boot into my windows iso
Samsung calendar recently stopped showing contacts birthdays, any clue why this happened? I tried many possible solutions but nothing helped. Everything is synced and all show "birthdays" boxes are checked in calendar.
i used it once then went back to vmware lmao
Lol I gave up and got vmware
Guys how does the windows remote computer thingy work? I wanna try making my pc connect to my laptop and use my laptop as another device for my pc
I'd recommend steering clear of the built in Remote Desktop Service for Windows. It's horribly insecure.
If you're not afraid of a little setup, RustDesk is an excellent open source option. It's free for self hosting. If you want something simpler you can go with TeamViewer. It's also free for home use.
I had Linux at one point and I have the grub bootloader stuck on my C drive…
Is there any easy fix for this
Because whenever I boot it goes to grub command line and I have to type ‘exit’ for it to advance to windows 11 splash screen
Show me what the drive looks like as far as partitioning goes
I have a feeling it’s the last partition on disk 0
200mb so likely EFI of some sort (?)
Ok so what I'd do is boot Linux off a USB drive and open up that first partition. You should be able to find the grub.efi file and delete it. Have a windows recovery drive or installation disk ready just in case you need to repair something.
And once grub.efi is gone then windows boot loader will come up instead when I turn my pc on
Welp I’ll try it out in a moment after I get Linux on a usb real quick and get back to you
Thanks for the suggestion
Is there a way to force a webcam to take pictures at a higher resolution than its actual max in the windows default camera app?
I know it sounds strange and likely not possible, but i bought a usb-hdmi capture card off aliexpress and it works using the computer camera in order to see the output (i guess obs would work too). On the pc that is outputting the image i set 4k60 and it works (surface screen is 3k so it's somewhat noticeable), but the camera app on the surface only allows to capture 1080p(60) photos and videos likely because it detects the actual physical camera as the input device
Otherwise I could install obs but I was hoping for it to work as intended much easily
I do not have 4k Webcam that might trick the app to allow for 4k capture
Sounds like another case of fake 4k cameras. No, it's only a 1080p camera and it can't physically see more than that.
If you need more than native then you need an upscaler
If you need less than native you can either use less of the sensor or downscale
Just realized my message was a bit confusing and too long
Summarized: i bought the hdmi-usb caprure card on aliexpress and in order to see what is going through that hdmi I have to open the camera app in windows (or use obs) on the pc where the usb is connected to. On the pc streaming the picture to the card i can set 4k res (or slightly higher), on the pc that is capturing video i can only set 1080p photos and videos to record (likely because that's the max res for the surface pro6 camera), can the limitation on the camera be bypassed? Or do I just install obs and get 4k 60/120fps?
Because it is rated for 4k (as I saw earlier) but I'd also like to record stuff in 4k
- Installing obs on every pc i use to capture stuff through the card would be annoying
I have never used the camera app and it sounds like a bizarre limitation. Have you verified this by using a different software such as obs already?
There is also this
it's better to leave things at native res imo
because to make it record in 4k, you have to make up data that doesnt exist, by interpolating the pixel data from the native source
and then to watch it on displays that aren't 4k, you have to downscale it again
if you want to record in 4k, you should get a 4k camera
I will say you have to watch hdmi capture cards. A lot of cheap ones with misleading information out there. 4k can be pretty expensive
also yeah most "4k" capture cards i see for under $100 is just 4k passthrough, 1080p capture
I'm going to install obs and check if i can get 4k60 recording
Having a problem where when I update it would go to a certain percentage and would say the installation is an error and restarts it, telling me to install it again, can anyone assist me with this problem?
Try this first
it wont let me update windows
im trying to downloand minecraft but it says update windows to latest update
but windows wont update
You'll need the update assistant since you're so far behind on updates. Select "update now" on this page and it'll download a tool that will help.
https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
Damn that's an old ass version lmao
Only 5 years old nbd
thanks
ilyk how it goes
2004 was the update version it wants to go to, it's on 1909
Xbox stuff needs an update probably
Check microsoft store for updates to it
Xbox, Xbox game bar etc
Could try java edition/prism launcher if needed
Any recommendations on getting a windows 10 home key?
I believe you can still find some on ebay for around 40$ last I checked but read the reviews and do so at your own risk. I'm not sure if that's still a recommended avenue to get them.
windows 11 keys can activate windows 10
just make sure you installed windows 10 home if you have a windows 11 home key, or pro if you have a pro key
Im struggling to figure out how to root my new S23, has android 14 on it. Whenever i go to developer settings OEM Unlock just isnt an option and idk why, my A42 has android 13 and it shows up without issue? Dunno if there was a policy change or whatever but i want to figure out if i could find a way to enable it with ADB or fastbooting?
I know this servers prob mainly for desktop software but im desperate lol
You can try going to fastboot to do it, you'll need adb and fastboot programs ofc
adb reboot bootloader
fastboot flashing unlock
This will trip Knox and probably wipe your data
Thank you so much, ill see if i can get that working tomorrow
Hey does anyone know if i can delete this windows.old folder? I believe it was created when I reset windows.
Some threads say it's like a backup, so I might just copy it to my backup drive idk
Thing is, the appdata folder in windows.old is 95gb while the appdata folder in my current users folder is 27gb
Run disk cleanup. It's a Windows utility. Search for it in start menu, run as admin, and it'll scan the OS for non critical files like that for you to delete.
The appdata folder often contains saved games, which you probably don't need since many games use cloud saves now. Even those that don't can use Steam Cloud.
I had tried disk cleanup but not as administrator, now it's showing 609gb (?!) of previous installations on my C drive
It's probably confused about recursive links
Anyone know why the Nvidia background application max frame limit will bug out and lose some functionality and then work fine a week later
Standard driver bug. It gets confused about which applications count as "background".
Disabling fullscreen optimization in the exe fixed it in one app but not for all of them. What a headache
Not sure why people would use that tbh
I used it for my laptop
Though I rather it stop working by not frame limiting my foreground apps
not sure if this is the right channel, but with a new laptop with a 4060 i should PROBABLY install geforce experience correct?
It's not required, it's mostly for tweaking settings on a per game basis and it gets you the overlay if you want it.
And also it makes it easier to install new drivers with just a click of a button
You update your drivers?
Yuh huh
Hello, I am currently in the middle of a storm situation and there wasn’t any lighting, just a lot of wind and some rain. The power out sounded clean, no popping or anything, and the next thing you know, my windows 10 M.2 drive is not online, only my sata SSD. I have a MSI Z490 carbon Gaming Wi-Fi motherboard.
I was fortunate to go to a friend’s house for the night and do a diagnosis so I first did what anyone would probably recommend which was reseat the drive. I at first didn’t reseat anything actually, then I booted up without the drive, then with the drive back in and still nothing changed. It didn’t pop up, but I did change the cmos battery to another cr2032 3v battery and kept the previous cmos battery out for 5 minutes then I put the new one in. The m.2 drive is on finally but it isn’t available as a bootable drive.
So afterwards I’ve tried disabling secure boot to see if secure boot is preventing it for some reason from being seen as a bootable drive, I also disabled fast boot, still no change. I unplugged my sata connection to my other SSD to see if it is possibly interfering with my m.2 drive for whatever reason and no change. I’m glad I have progress but I need this drive to work, I can’t afford to reset it because I literally have work on there I’ve worked on countless hours months to about 2 years of dedication and not too long ago when something randomly messed up my m.2 drives (I had two, now one), I lost data from one of them that got corrupted and that’s why I have a sata drive and a m.2 drive now. I hope someone here can come up with a real solution… Anyone please 😢
Try booting from a Linux live USB and see if you can read the contents of the drive. While you're there check the SMART health.
I sadly only have one computer and I left my USB at the house
I may be able to use my parent’s computer when I get back
Is there anything else I can do until then?
You could play around with the settings in bios some more to see if you can get it to recognize the windows boot loader, but ideally you'll want some sort of bootable USB.
Hmmm alright will do… Should I switch the mode to raid or no?
And any other settings you would recommend in bios for MSI? If not I guess I’ll have to wait
I’ll see if my mother brought her laptop and download Rufus to use the Linux live usb
And if it lets me see the contents on the drive, that means it’s not corrupted?
It says lili but is this what I need to download and put it on the drive?
Download latest version of LiLi
No stick to AHCI. RAID requires specific drivers to be installed before enabling, or it might completely break your install.
LiLi is one you can use. You can also just use a standard Ubuntu or Mint ISO.
Okay thanks for the heads up! I’ll use lili then in that case or Ubuntu if I need to for whatever reason
So I thought about it long and hard and I feel like I know what the problem is. I had a M.2 drive fail before and it went through a stage before completely failing where it lets you read from it but not write. I’m going to take my M.2 drive out and have my father order me a new drive so I can copy the contents on the near failing m.2 drive to the new sata drive. Some may disagree but I’ve had horrible and weird/unusual failings with M.2 drives. A quick story about my data drive that was online even after the power out, it also went through a real NASTY power out a few years ago and I heard a popping sound from my computer as it was connected to my TV. The monitor went out but this drive is still strong to this day and I only started using it again a few months ago when my other m.2 drive failed on me. The good thing is I’ve been through an m.2 failing before so I know we have some time before it becomes completely unusable. I did do a nvme test on my MSI bios since I can’t do the usb drive you mentioned yet, but it failed that test. So I think my drive is honestly failing.
So I wanted to ask you what SSDs in 2024 that carry 1-3TB of storage per SSD do you recommend and why? Because I’m personally done with M.2s. I don’t like how they fail so easily and I saw tonight that these drives apparently have much higher failing rates and I wish I knew this info before. I want to get new Sata connection SSDs before the drive completely fails so if you have two reliable brands you recommend, please let me know which ones and why and I’ll get them ASAP so I can continue my work and hopefully get the other M.2 drive to be seen when I install a windows 10 license I used before on it.
—-
Other advice:
I also have a 2080 TI and I wanted to know is there a big difference between getting a 3rd gen or 4th gen 24GB GPU even though they have the same amount of vram?
Also, my SSD drive was from the Acer Nitro V17 and it’s still kicking
I read the 2022 USENIX Conference Paper, and I can say with confidence that the high failure rate they concluded is based on Correlated drive failures instead of individual drive failures
What it means is that once an NVME drive fails, it is much more likely to cause a cascade effect and affect other NVMEs in the same array
It is depicting the chance of additional failures after an individual drive has already failed
Not depicting the rate of individual drive failures
The information that would be relevant to you, would be the negligible effects of random writes on NVMEs, and that in the long term, NVMEs rarely experience failures
Additionally, you experienced two drive failures on your NVMEs, both caused by sudden power failures, likely as they were being written to.
Assuming your sata ssd was not in use during the power cut, that was likely the reason it is still fine
If your sata ssd was being written to when the power cut, it could also have failed the same
if anything, the data for Write Amplification shows that SATA ssds are less reliable than NVME ssds for consumer workloads
Consumer workloads will predominantly be random, small writes as opposed to long, continuous writes
A higher Write Amplification (WAF) is defined as a more random, and small writes dominant workload
The data shows that the failure rates of NVME SSDs with higher WAFs are much lower than SATA SSDs
therefore I conclude that you should keep using NVME ssds
and maybe get a UPS while you're at it
TL;DR NVME SSDs have a lower failure rate than SATA SSDs for your use case, unless you're running a datacenter
and also maybe start doing a backup haha
Just looked this up, this is needed because it feels so unsafe working at this point if some weather hits.
But doesn’t that take an extra drive because I have a lot of work that’s like 2TB worth
Thanks for all your information, it’s really interesting how that works, it’s just so frustrating because I wasn’t even doing any work at the moment, because I was just watching a show on an anime site I usually do on downtime so I wasn’t doing anything with files at the time
I used: SAMSUNG 970 EVO PLUS M.2 2280 1TB PCIe Gen 3.0 x4, NVMe 1.3 V-NAND 3-bit MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
So do you recommend a better drive or is that fine? I’m currently doing a new build on pcpartpicker
Well you could have an external drive or something for that
But yes, it would take another drive but it's worth it in situations like these
Also has surge protection too so it's extra good
No man, I get it losing your data is extremely stressful and irritating
Or well, the possibility of losing it still is
970s are fine, but I'd recommend the mp34, sk hynix gold p31, sabrent rocket
Samsung's are just kinda overpriced
The sn750 SE or the SN570 are good lower price alternatives
Well, last I checked
Prices are probably different than I remember
If you want to see how they perform, look them up here
Tom's Hardware helps you buy the best hardware and build the best PC to play, create and work..
Nice reference point for ssds
Anyone else have nice suggestions feel free
Yeah apparently mine wasn’t good enough but compared to how big that thing is, I can already expect it to be packed with heavier features compared to my strip
Thanks for the link because it’s been such an emotional rollercoaster. I genuinely appreciate your help and the other person today more than you can imagine🙏
You are so right about Samsung, and I’ve had bad luck with them so I’m trying one of the brands you showed me and I’ll take time this morning on choosing the best one I can find between those and price. I learned my lesson for sure, I need a bigger protection because my strip still didn’t help
They're on paper the most write durable consumer ssds last I remember, but it's moreso they're overpriced vs their competitors
Generally a rule of thumb I remember is that 1000+J of surge protection is good
Obviously higher is even better
There's protectors from apc and stuff that's 2000+J of protection
Well my computer died off watching anime so they lost my vote because I didn’t even do any type of downloading or anything, but I’m sure they have worked for others I’ve just had bad luck with them twice in a row sadly so my gut is telling me to look at the ones you mentioned and I have always wondered about western digital so your taste in recommendations with this is awesome🙏
Yeah it’s going to be way way better then what I currently have so when I get paid enough, I’m going all out with that because these weather conditions, hell anywhere can be a risk at this point if my ssd will fail that easily and I’m not doing anything on it
Thanks for the precision and giving me real info🙏
Fair is fair man
WD is nice, their software (if you use it) seems pretty nice too
No bloatware, just exactly what you need
For the drives, I mean
If you wanted to be safe, generally a 1500va ups will be more than enough if you have up to a 1000w psu iirc
Never fully figured out the conversion since W=V*a anyway?
But apparently it's not exactly the same
They also say pure sine wave is technically also better than stepped wave, but other people say psus should be fine handling stepped wave frequencies
It's kinda in the air for my understanding and I didn't bother digging
Oh yeah if you can the sk hynix p31 is amazing
Like one of the best gen 3 ssds haha
Gen 4 I'm more unfamiliar in though
Yeah I saw it’s about the same price as Sabrent Rocket 4 and Western Digital SN750, but then I saw on pcpartpicker Teamgroup MP34 has 4TB for $252 so I know there has to be some sort of trade off for that price
Mp34 is slower than the sk hynix p31
Sabrent is good for bigger storage ssds iirc
For the price
prices do vary with countries so your prices probably different from mine
Is it so slow you would regret buying it even though you can get an extra 2TB for a cheaper price?
And with Sabrent, do you mean it is more read/write durable?
If I wanted the extra 2tb tho yeah
Depends on if you need the storage or speed more
Okay then that helps me make my decision as I read more! Thanks for everything, you really have helped tremendously finishing my build, I’m going to take precautions way more because weather no matter what is unpredictable even if the power out was clean
I wish you the best man🤍🤍
Can't predict when lightning strikes
Ups is good both for surge and for saving your progress in an outage
Half will be battery backup and surge protected and other half will be just surge
Give or take
I’ll definitely take your advice because like you said, it’s random when this happens
Better to spend $150 on protection than $500 later for repairs
?cmos
How to clear CMOS (works for AMD and Intel)
https://www.intel.com/content/www/us/en/support/articles/000025368/processors.html
Defines CMOS technology and how to clear CMOS using the jumper or battery methods.
How the hell is samsung remaining battery estimate so inaccurate
Like it says two whole days, the phone already knows it can barely keep up for a few more hours
lmao
The driver doesn't support it
what driver? can i update it?
You'll be able to control the sample rate etc through the first party software
thank you so much!
i have been using 44.1khz since i got the interface, and now finally i got the audio driver lol
hey can someone help me with error code 1618 when trying to install java
What java are you trying to install exactly? The official versions are no longer supported.
Googles gonna be your best bet wack the error code and whatever error message it says, there's almost always a good answer
If not send the error message too
i did not know this. but i had the same issue when trying to download something else. p sure a vpn. google says error 1618 is when there’s a installation in progress. still can’t locate a fix.
Rebooting should stop whatever is locking the installer out. It could be a Windows update, they do like to pick the worst times to install.
Try openjdk, since the official Java is no longer maintained and might not work on newer Windows.
Hey I’m about to build my pc soon, not sure if it comes with windows or anything how do I go about getting win11 on my computer? I was told I need a key or something
Someone told me I needed a boot drive and key or something
How to Download and Install Windows 11 from a USB Flash Drive for Free.
Easy step by step Tutorial Full Guide for desktops and a laptop.
Download Windows 11 for free here. (from Microsoft's website)
https://www.microsoft.com/software-download/windows11
How to Install Windows 11 from a USB Flash Drive for Free!
-Windows 11 USB Flash Drive (Easy...
Depending on your pc parts u might need to tinker with bios for windows 11
I need help
I trying to set up my computer but can’t connect to the Wi-Fi network what can I do to get it to connect
Thanks
cant connenct to wifi
may require drivers
if you cant connect to wifi during the windows 11 setup, press shift f10 and then type in oobe\bypassnro in the cmd terminal
and then go through setup and select "i dont have internet" in the network selection screen
also this will allow you to do a local user account which i much prefer
Anyone know programs to transfer pictures from my iphone to my pc? If I use the photos app it doesn't load them all or just says it was unable to do it, and if I do it directly from the files it only copies around 10% and then crashes
I need help, some reason im getting no enhancments for my Realtek audio drivers and they keep popping up as USB 2.0 drivers instead of high definition. I have no high defition audio drivers for some reason
I also have a laptop with realtek audio that's completely non functional right now. I think a windows update may have broken it but not sure
Audio drivers are very spotty. Try an older version of the driver, and sometimes it can take a few (dozen) installs to start working again
You can also try wiping the audio drivers using DDU
Our usual guide is geared towards GPU drivers but it can work for audio too
?ddu
DDU (Display Driver Uninstaller) Guide by Pato
https://github.com/NeweggTechie/Graphics-cards/wiki/How-to-use-DDU
I will try that thankyou
This problem occured 2 years ago.
I have a laptop. Did a windows update and it seems like the os has corrupted after it finished.
It loops to windows recovery but never is able to find the problem or fix it. Other tools are unaccessible. The recovery menu shows up and is "functional" but can never get through any of the tools.
The drive is accessible via linux though.
Question is:
Can i be able to fix the corrupt OS via a windows flashdrive/linux?
Or do i gotta clean instal and save what i have to the new drive?
You can try a repair installation from a Windows USB boot drive
It'll rewrite the OS files without touching your personal files
Instructions on how then?
I belive i have attempted that but it only seems to probably effect the usb and not the target drive. It never even asked for a target drive to repair either
Windows 10 or 11?
Win 10
Go here, scroll down to Reinstall Windows 10 using INstallation Media Follow instructions. https://support.microsoft.com/en-us/windows/reinstall-windows-d8369486-3e33-7d9c-dccc-859e2b022fc7#bkmk_reinstall_windows_10_using_installation_media
Learn how to reinstall Windows on your PC and how activation works after it's installed.
Okay, as i stated before, the problem is i am unable to even boot into windows to even do this option
So i am unable to get into windows in order to use a windows drive exe... only things i can do is from the USB drive
Well, you'll need a boot recovery USB to do anything else, including a full wipe and reinstall of Windows. Especially if the Recovery option isn't working. You can also do it in Linux, since you mentioned the drive works in Linux, you must have a working Linux PC? At this point, your options are limited. Need to know what Distro tho
So then my previous assumption of the windows OS bein salvaged is incorrect then?
Once again, i have another system. I have a desktop. I am able to use that to move files around and with a linux drive as well.
Im asking of its even possible to salvage the drive with repairing the OS or do i have to do a fresh install while saving what i need?
Sigh. It is possible to salvage it. However, you will need to create Windows 10 boot media on a USB drive and Reinstall Saving Personal Files from there.
You will need to create the Windows 10 USB Boot Drive on another machine.
Then use it on the corrupt machine and perform a repair install, saving your personal data
On another machine, choose Create Windows 10 Installation Media. Download now. Have a 8 GB + USB drive plugged in, run the downloaded program, choose the USB drive as the install location. Once it's complete, you can boot the corrupted machine from it and perform a Repair Install.

