#overclocking
1 messages · Page 72 of 1
and it melts because increasing the amperage creates heat, which further increases resistance
that's just internal resistance of the wire
if the wire is an inch long, it'll most likely be fine
I see
there's a reason the psu eps sends 12v, then the vrm right next to the cpu converts it to the 1.2v
well - length shouldn't matter much for if it'll melt at all, cross sectional area will
and even then, the vrm does like 1.3v in order to get 1.2 by the time it gets to the cpu
That said if it's real short - it'll conduct heat away at either end easily
"on a #12 wire"
well ya higher voltage means less voltage loss when conducted over a distance. Hence why your house uses 120 volts but the power lines outside are 3000+. Also why long transmission lines are up to 500,000v
its not just that, but if the cpu needs 200A at 1.2v, you can send 20A at 12v and have the vrm convert it closer to the source
hence why Thomas Edison lost to Westinghouse for electrical infrastructure
Edison's idea was essentially wire everything as 12v. Sure you'll need a copper conductor 10 inches wide to send power 100 miles but it's safer
but now I'm flirting with DC v. AC voltage and that's outside the scope of this discussion
okay I'm now on YouTube watching "What is a semi-conductor" lol thanks for pointing me in the right direction
oh... well ya the entire basis of the decision was AC v. DC voltage
DC lost because AC was was easier to convert at the time
Doesn't DC require a much larger conductor to send it long distances?
High voltage DC long distance transmission is more efficient nowadays because of semiconductor electronics
No, and you don't have capacitive/em/skin effect losses
well I think that sheds some light on my confusion because the basic, older technology seems to be the opposite
eddy currents
L0 Cache errors are caused by insufficient voltage?
oh and let me clarify something: when you say DC over long distance is "more efficient" do you mean more efficient than DC transmission used to be or more efficient than conducting AC voltage?
There are pros and cons
But the tech to both invert and rectify on that scale with good efficiency/cost wasn't a thing 100 years ago
Most likely yes. You're trying to run at an unstable frequency for the voltage
Thank you all @sterile flame @clever epoch @tall pelican I know I have a lot to learn. My bad if I get annoying with dumb questions
Ring should be - 3 of CPU ratio?
no problem
I try to set cpu ration with ring on auto first
Usually yeah, something like 47/50 on a 9900k, varies by platform
max ring is whatever's stable
Ratio
I dunno why it tagged forbi meant @proven canopy see I can't even use the chat right haha
Another question. I know usually you should just apply the same settings to all cores but in my case core 4 seems to always get hottest. Is it a bad idea to try to leave that core at a slightly lower setting?
Or will multiple settings just invite further instability?
Also why is it that after 4 hours of OCCT w/ AVX it'll show my max temp as like 79 then 5 seconds of P95 has 4 cores at TJMAX?
P95 is a synthetic load, putting unrealistic strain on the CPU
So is OCCT a reliable source to determine whether thermals are okay? Should I be averaging the two?
what cpu/board/ram
10900k/MSI MPG Gaming Carbon WiFi/G.Skill Trident Z Neo (32gbx2@3800)
I wish I'd been patient & gotten a Ryzen 9 so PC would be largely pointless lol
I had a stable 5.0/core going with -1 AVX offset. I got it pretty stable without an offset then decided to go for the gold & try to get a 5.1gHz OC stable
10900k is a great chip lol
I have no complaints about the chip. I'm just trash at OC
I'm thinking I lost the silicone lottery (maybe nowadays a better name for it would be silicone shuffle) because I read forums where people claim stable OC at 5.2, 5.3, & even 5.4.
Friend's data https://docs.google.com/spreadsheets/d/1jSNF2ZstrEmcR4JJpBdA9ZfsrA8xlcC1nLZneEZEl9E/edit#gid=283718095
Statistics
Percentile,Silicon Prediction,Clock Speed
SP,Count,%,0,61,49
60-69,149,63.40425532,0.01,63,49
70-79,18,7.659574468,0.02,63,49
80-89,42,17.87234043,0.03,63,49
90-99,22,9.361702128,0.04,63,49
100+,4,1.70212766,0.05,63,50
0.06,63,50
63SP,141,60,0.07,63,50
0.08,63,50
No. of CPUs,235,0.09,...
what kind of voltages do you guys run for a 3700X?
1.25 is a safe bet for manual, but pbo is good
i have been running 1.375v @ 4.35ghz but now realize that's a tad high...
very..
i was worried because i always see 1.5v spikes so i figured i'd lock it to 1.375v
but chip to chip differences mean there is no safe voltage for every chip
but now i'm reading that raises the average voltage and since i just game, i should leave it stock
pbo is good
Amd dont recommend above 1.3v iirc
i just have pbo & xmp enabled in the bios, and am only getting a 10% reduction in multicore performance in cinebench r23
single core is within margin of error
imma dummy, it's lasted a year with those settings too
temps have always been perfect as well
What ram speed?
I ran like 4.4ghz at 1.375v manual for a few months on my 3800x, it doesn't clock that high any more
Degradation
i was never able to hit more than the 4.35 after much testing, unless i upped the voltage more
You could possibly oc that ram
Don't up it too much degradation not good
i've tried, but didn't have much luck. never messed with ram oc before
There are many ram oc genius's in here lol
i've been more concerned about my 1070 hanging in there to realize i been being ballsy af with my cpu lol
What do you mean?
i take better care of my gpu & worry about it more than my cpu
Your gpu will be fine, even if overclocked
It's actually safer cus you don't have to mess with voltage
anything above 1.3V for ryzen is killing the cpu
also the spikes to 1.5V are on idle or low load
so it doesnt matter as much
1.25v for zen2 and on is considered max safe under any load
fr?
I always thought it was 1.3
It'll vary by chip - but if someone's asking "what's the max safe all core voltage" that's the answer
If you're letting the chip control it's own voltage, it'll see 1.5v often for idle/low loads and that's fine
yeah idle doesnt really matter
1.3v is "safe" for zen 3 according to AMD
Under normal gamer use cases, 1.3 probably is, but not for p95 or something
voltage + high current bad right
1.25v for Zen 2
Yes
I got more perf with less voltage
You should see anta777 roast him on the forums
Please link an example
Im pretty sure its the 1 vid linus made praising ctr
ah yes I forgot 1usmus did that
Ctr was also like: "you have poop sample 3900xt" only does 4.6/4.3ghz at 1.2v
It told me I have gold sample. same test 5 mins later: u have bronze poop chip
I managed to go from bronze to gold by just changing LLC on a 5800x
CTR is a waste of time tbh
What benchmark?
CTR is clock tuner for ryzen which is supposed to help you oc but its bleh
Ohhh
I just set everything in the bios to auto and am running only PBO & XMP and it's running great
Does C-State need to be disabled for OC?
For stability on more extreme OC it's a good idea
Mostly only needed if your computer has trouble waking up from sleep or something
ah okay thanks.
I think 5.0 is as extreme as my CPU is going to allow with my current setup.
Yeah that's not high enough that I'd call it necessary unless you're having problems with stability
50 core ratio, 47 ring ratio, 0 AVX offset, LLC Mode 4, I'm still hitting 89 degrees on CB R23
Looks like beefier cooling solution is the next step, that's where I'm at too.
Yesterday I spent hours trying to get stable with a 51 core ratio and when I finally did I was hitting TJMAX on 4 cores
I have a Coolermaster 360 AIO
and I just redid the thermal paste on it just to be sure it wasn't bad
Well there's your problem. A cheap 360 is only about as good as a decent 240.
with the stable 50 I'm at 1.290v
yikes. $220 is a cheap AIO? lol
I was thinking I'd either change the AIO or swap out the 3 in 1 fan setup it comes with & throw three Noctua NF-F12s on the AIO since they're nearly double the static pressure
but then again that's a $75 investment on fans that may or may not get me anywhere
Depending on which 360 it is, yeah. It can be cheap build quality but deceptively cost more.
MasterLiquid ML350P Silver Edition
ML series is meh
Kraken is good but overpriced. All you're paying for really is the name and a tiny LCD screen.
EK-AIO, Lian Li Galahad, and Liquid Freezer II
I mean is it worth the investment tho? i.e. am I likely to jump from stable 50 to stable 52-53?
Liquid Freezer II is sitting at the top of Gamer's Nexus' charts last I checked
That's a question you have to answer yourself. Is the investment worth a potential 5% gain in performance?
True but I guess what I meant to ask is whats the likelihood of obtaining that 5% gain
Like is a new AIO so much better than my current one that I'll actually see that gain
Pretty good odds, since not only can it go higher it can go higher longer
It also has a little VRM fan that helps a bit with airflow there
Really? okay maybe I'm looking at it wrong. I saw where the bin numbers put the liklihood of having a 10900k capable of a 53 ratio are only about 1 in 3
53 isn't likely, sure, but you have a better chance when you're below tjmax
Lower temps = better OC
I think I also have to factor in my motherboard. I have an MSI Gaming Carbon Wifi which from what I've gathered from others in here isn't spectacular in the OC department
& swapping the mobo is headache city since Windows will see it as a whole new system & want a new product key
I guess I could transfer this one but still a mission
not to mention it'll be like $300 for a good mobo
Not necessarily, once you sign into your MS account you can simply hit "I changed hardware" and done
I wish I went ASUS on the mobo to begin with but I had no idea which video card I'd finally end up with
then I somehow won the shuffle & got the ASUS UF-rtx3060-O12G
rather
TUF-RTX3060-O12G
Not bad, that one has a way overkill cooler
I was hoping for at least a 3070 but given the circumstances I'm pretty darn happy
I use it at +700 mem clock & +200 GPU clock. I can't get it stable any higher
Hindsight being what it is, I also wish I'd looked at different cases. my H500P Mesh looks great but there's no side mount or bottom air flow places
So I basically have top radiator/exhaust, back exhaust, & front intake. I upgraded the fans from the stock 200mms to Thermaltake Riing Trios
but fan-wise I'm pretty much maxxed out
Looking at various test data sets it looks like moving to a liquid freezer ii would reduce your CPU temps about 6 degrees at least
Too bad you can't get the top panel in mesh cuz there isn't much space for the radiator exhaust to escape
oh wow 6 degrees would put me in a pretty good spot
Based on a couple different tests, ML360P is 4 degrees behind Kraken X72, Kraken is behind freezer by another 2 degrees
I only see Liquid Freezer II in 120, 240, & 280 on Newegg. Is there no 360? 280 won't fit the case
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There's even a 420 if you get a big chungus case
You don't think changing the fans would get me anywhere near 6 degrees right?
lol
I know the answer is no but had to ask
Maybe 2 degrees changing fans
you're not gonna get much better on fans unless you alter ML120s or use server fans
i would just push/pull
ya $75 on fans for 2 degrees vs $125 on AIO for 6
Problem is I can't fit push/pull
The 360 is like a 1/16" away from hitting the CPU power cables as is
If I re-ran the CPU cables somewhere else it'll look nasty
liquid freezer ii 360 is 1 cable for the entire thing
They daisy chain
No RGB so it's easier to manage too
I've been working on another build. The motherboard is Ryzen this time & I'm attempting to do a custom loop
Ooh those are fun
Stressful, but fun
ya but not for your wallet for sure lol
That's what I've done so far
I should be getting my 2d 360mm & another 120mm radiator in the mail tomorrow
when i got confused i looked at AIO and i realized my daisy chain 8 pin PCIe was stopping the middle fan from spinning
lmao
D'oh
I'm gonna do one 360 to the CPU & one to the GPU then have them hit the 120 before they come back to the pump so the liquid is a decent temp in the pump
i would get a P500A for custom looping
Or 5000d
put a 120/140mm reservoir at the back fan mount, 420mm push pull on the front and a 280mm top
I'm kinda kicking myself in the butt for not going all corsair
haha ok nvm then
but LL120s/QL120s etc are garb
I'm going mostly thermaltake
Corsair software is trash
iCUE is totally fine
all the radiator fans are thermaltake & so are the 4 200mms
thing is with it, you just open the program, set the profile and close it
Eh, everyone has opinions
it'll freeze the RGB but you keep the colors you set on the hardware
I despise how intrusive it is, and it tends to break forcing you to reapply everything frequently (from my experience)
when it comes to mouses its def buggy
well in my experience MysticLight is junk, MasterPlus is junk, AmouryCrate is junk, & TT RGB Plus is junk
I don't understand why these companies can't make decent software for their RGB
and how there's no unifying controller for them.
True there's not really any single best program
I have to use all 4 I just mentioned on my H500P build. It's exhausting
You can try using openrgb if you are mixing brands to get it more unified but that has its own problems
& both ArmouryCrate & MysticLight wanna control the RAM despite my settings so then that gets all confused & like half the lights will be one thing and half another
I attempted to use Jack RGB but that was useless
Not to mention the XPG RGB software or G.Skill's
trash & trash
Yep didn't even bother installing the XPG one, but dragon center didn't detect my RAM until I did a full reinstall of Windows
XPG's RGB colors on the S40G are so off
If you try to put white it looks light purple
so goofy
Mine are slightly blue shifted, so annoying.
MysticLight has detected my RAM since day one. It was fine until I installed ArmouryCrate to change the little light on the graphics card
They really incentivize you to purchase only their products when it comes to RGB
It's like barely anything is compatible
I could connect my CoolerMaster controller to MysticLight but the settings r blah
Thermaltake barely plays ball with anyone. The Trio 200mm fans only work on TT RGB cuz of the power draw or some nonsense
It's such an annoying thing to deal with. If I wanna leave the computer on overnight to run OCCT or something, I have to turn off the lights in 4 different programs
Lol I did kinda the same, when I got my Gigabyte GPU I just turned off all 6 lighting zones and uninstalled the app.
That Jack RGB program is like ya it works with MSI but you have to do these like 4 steps oh & make sure DragonCenter is on if Jack RGB is on or you can permanently mess up the MSI motherboard RGB crap
OpenRGB had an issue with MSI where it could straight brick the RGB, they had to disable MSI compatibility for a while.
MSI is touchy I guess
if you used the old method it could brick it
Computer components are so strange. You buy like a $400 part & it doesn't even come with instructions
speaking of rgb software
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iCUE on steroids with majority of other programs mixed in
There's yellow in there, what are you so mad about? lol
shoot I might be installing that otnight
tonight
The other random colors haha
ArmouryCrate & MysticLight off:
What is telling those lights to be pink & purple rn? Wth
This is why some level of standardization is needed, it avoids strange conflicts like that
I agree
RGB needs standardization & so does the connections on power supplies
I needed an extra Molex cable (before it dawned on me that you can just convert SATA) & they're nearly impossible to find
I kept all of my old cable adapters through the years, I still have the sata to molex to 6 pin PCIe weird cable I got with an ancient GPU
While I'm on the issue of compatibility, if a case comes with two separate connections for the USB C 3.2 & USB A 3.0 but the motherboard only has one connection, can you split that or you just have to choose either one?
USB C uses a different kind of header
Lol ya but isn't 52w the limit on Sata/Molex? i.e. connect a modern graphics card & watch the cable melt?
Yep that's why I'd only ever use it on this 75W 750ti a friend gave me
one of those connects to the USB C
how the heck I don't know
both look like USB 3.0
So one of those goes to 2x type A and the other a type C?
correct
no idea what it looks like internally but connection wise they look identical
I already had to get this to deal with the fact that my fans need 3 controllers plus the case USBs
So 2 headers was not going to be enough
Each 3.0 header can support either 2x 3.0+ ports or 4 USB 2.0 ports
Amazon.com: Sabrent Internal USB 3.0 Hub/Splitter (HB-INTS): Computers & Accessories
I guess I could get that thing
Those are all 2.0s
oh wait you mean for the 3.0? Cool no USB C for me I guess
I wonder if there's a way to convert like one of those mini PICe connections to USB 3.0 lol
Yes there's PCIe x1 to USB 3.0 header adapters
is it the x16 or the smaller one?
I was just looking at one just like that one trying to figure out if the connection for the USB 3.0 on the back is in or out
That converts the PCIe 3.0 slot to effectively 4 USB ports
ah okay
lol great & because of how the case is to mount the GPU vertically, I'll need a riser to connect that
assuming the cable from the case USBs even make it that far
makes
Only issue I've had with mine is a boot miscommunication when I had it as a powered hub. Unplug the sata power and it works like a splitter
It comes with a low profile bracket, maybe you could use it that way?
Or just get one that doesn't have the external connection and take the bracket off completely
That whole thing turned on this case for vertical mount
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Could get that one and just remove the bracket. If you need extra support still zip ties work lol
Bonus being that you won't be able to see it underneath your GPU
Gotta love zip ties
What do you use to hang these things?
The velcro that comes with them is a joke.
True that, though my power supply came with some decent enough velcro
The stuff that came with these is 3M & it's still junk
I'm using this stuff rn
But the top controller came loose. I just added another couple squares. Who knows if it'll hold
Oh nice I didn't realize the mounting part was held with just two screws
Not really an issue I've had since my case has screws to mount everything
I'll probably just grab that & let it hide behind the gpu
Even the rgb/fan controllers?
I don't have one
I was thinking of just drilling a hole thru two corners haha
Just a splitter for my 240mm AIO
heck that must be nice
This current build I've gotten just about everything but the really expensive stuff. I still need a Ryzen 9 5900 or 5950 (Id rather the 5950 but it's like almost a grand), RAM & two water blocks
Those water blocks are so expensive for nothing
Like the fancy Thermaltake one I'd like to get is $120. A whatever one from ebay is like $15
a few RGB lights costs $105? come on man
Maybe I'll just get cheaper RAM & swap the ones that are in my H500P build & use the Trident Z in the new build
I thought 64GB was a good thing to have but I doubt I've ever used even half of it
maybe I can just put one 32 in each build haha
Most people don't have a need for more than 16GB of memory still, 32GB is for future proofing, and 64GB is for developing a massive open world game
Maybe I'll just get a 4x4gb setup
or 4x8 jic
I still haven't gotten an answer to whether 8x4 or 2x8 for 16gb (for example)
2 sticks cool better but that's about all I've heard
Technically speaking, 4x sticks is better but only by a few % and it puts additional strain on the memory controller
More strain means less overclock potential, and possibly it won't even run the memory at rated speeds
Yeah pretty much just tradeoffs
originally I wanted to get all 128GB but I'm glad I didn't because that would've been ridiculous
I'd be surprised if a Ryzen CPU could do 128GB at 3600C16, maybe 3400
Wait does that mean there's really no reason to get RAM over 3600?
Yes and no
3800 is good for zen 3, the infinity fabric tends to max out around there
This is on the 10900K
Oh I thought we were still talking 5900X
ya sorry I'm bouncing back & forth between my current build and the one I'm working on
Intel's point of diminishing return is 3200 iirc, higher is still better but has less impact on performance as you go higher
Maybe I'll just do the swap then. I'll put like 32GB at 3200 in the 10900K & move the 64GB at 3800 to the Ryzen whenever I finally get it
That would work. You could tighten timings on the 3200 set and it would perform only slightly lower than the 3800.
While I'm bothering you with all these questions, my dad has an older computer 4th gen i5 & the system drive is an HDD that's really slow, like 60mb/s read slow. I was gonna put an SSD in it & clone the HDD. You think there will be a noticeable difference?
Or you could split up the 64GB in 32+32
one stick in each build?
100% night and day difference
Ah only 2 sticks nvm
I ran benchmark on it & I'm surprised it didn't start laughing
ya 2 32s
My new build has a Sabrent Rocket in it. I can't wait to benchmark that thing
you think a max temp of 87 in CB R23 is too high?
this Coolermaster AIO is junk lol
It's high but shouldn't throttle too much, thermal limit is 93C I believe
btw how'd you learn all this? Your own research, trial & error, or school?
A combination of the three
really? min doesn't throttle until it hits 100
HWiNFO doesn't even turn red until it's north of 90
No wait I think that was the 1x600k I was thinking of, the 1x900k is 100C
Sounds like I'm scorching my CPU
I tried to read Intel's spec sheet but the darn thing is 137 pages
Maybe not scorching but there's room for improvement for sure
Intel ARK is good for specs
oh I just downloaded it from intel's website
summary is nice
https://ark.intel.com/content/www/us/en/ark/products/199332/intel-core-i9-10900k-processor-20m-cache-up-to-5-30-ghz.html
Intel® Core™ i9-10900K Processor (20M Cache, up to 5.30 GHz) quick reference guide including specifications, features, pricing, compatibility, design documentation, ordering codes, spec codes and more.
Tjunction answers the question?
Yes
okay cool so I'd think 88/100 isn't awful
darn I just hit 92 on Core 4
Core 4 is always the hottest
If you know someone that has the machinery you could lap the die so the temps are more evenly spread
And lap the CPU block while you're at it too, get that even mounting pressure goodness
I'm not sure if I know someone because I don't even know what machinery is involved
get this: no change to my OC settings but my CB R23 just went from 15589 to 16317
How on earth does that happen?
Background processes probably
I changed nothing & reset the computer
strange
My RAM is still on idiot mode with the RGB rn tho
darn it
I'll try making MysticLight overwrite 3d party software on restart & see if that works
What a mission
Sanding the CPU heat spreader works too
https://smallbusiness.chron.com/lap-cpu-processor-69154.html
How to Lap a CPU Processor. Lapping a CPU is a process by which you sand the top of a CPU's case until it is as close to perfectly smooth as possible. The idea is that if you can eliminate microscopic air gaps between the processor and the heatsink that sits on top of it, you can more effectively transfer heat ...
400
max thermal ended up at 92. 88 on every core otherwise except 84 on 8, 81 on 1, & 84 on 0
Removing the heat spreader allows your cooler to have direct contact to the IHS
That's why people delid
sounds like you could easily brick the CPU tho
if that goes wrong
I'm gonna do 3dmark now let's see how that goes
Oh yeah people rip the IHS off the chip all the time
ya well Murphy's law & seem to go hand-in-hand so I'm not delidding lol
law & I rather
Lapping is still perfectly safe and can improve cooling performance
It's easy on Intel CPUs since there's no pins on the chip
lol "looks like a murder scene from CSI Miami"
ya but wouldn't I need like some sort of scientific instrument to be sure I was actually sanding it flat?
I'm not saying it won't work, I'm saying I doubt I can perform it correctly
Read the steps, that's what the sharpie is for
are you supposed to use a belt sander?
I have a multi-tool sander but it just oscilates
Jeez this is ballsy
Can I say ballsy on here? the robot didn't get mad this time
Yeah you're fine
here we go... time to watch TimeSpy for the 900th time
You can hand sand to lap it even, don't need power tools technically
how much improvement do you think you'd get from that process?
woo GPU fans are definitely hitting 100% rn
What GPU are you running?
Results vary widely. Anywhere from 1-4 degrees I've seen.
I've got a 3090
HAH not a single one is still even close to $1500
Mine cost $2350 from newegg in the shuffle
oh ya the 3080 is kinda close to that
wow dude I think my entire build is less than that
What monitor(s) do you run it on?
I have a 43" Samsung but it's only 60Hz
I also have a 29" LG but it's only 75Hz
I kinda put my system together for school cuz of Zoom then transitioned to gaming
which I still haven't done much of
Aside from the RE2 remake
okay I gotta ask
what on earth do yo do with that much storage??
When gaming do you only use the Gigabyte monitor?
Would you believe me if I told you I need more? My hard drives are full.
I run a plex server and other things in the background, so I've got tons of media.
I use the Gigabyte monitor for the game and the other one (which was free to me) for discord and browsing while gaming
okay noob question #964: what's a plex server
?
You're using a similar CPU cooler to me no?
Plex is a media server that allows streaming almost anything to almost any device
I guess you don't need to bother to OC Ryzen 5xxx?
Oh I overclocked it for sure, but it taps out around 4.7GHz on all core load mostly due to the VRM on my motherboard overheating
I'm also running the memory at 3800C16, if I boost the voltage more I can probably get C15 or 14
I'm a performance nut, I like to eek out every drop of performance that I can, even if that comes at a disproportional power/heat cost
I even slapped a heatsink on the backplate of the GPU with an old 80mm CPU fan
If you've never heard an 80mm fan run at 5000 rpm, count yourself lucky
Make sure it doesn't take off XD
Right? My car doesn't even usually hit 5000 rpm
Maybe if I floor it getting on the highway
5k RPM? lol wth
I'm trying to do the same system builder but my XPG S40G apparently isn't even an option
wait jk
Yeah not every model for parts is listed on pcpp
it's under ADATA
Ah yep, XPG is the product line
I spoke too soon. Still can't find it
lol jk there it is
I can't find my monitor
cuz I guess technically it's not even really a monitor
hmm that's the wrong RAM
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/WcC2Cz okay ya that's the setup
I wanted to build a Coolermaster Cosmos but they're stupid expensive
Not bad at all
ya the whole thing is like a tick above your 3090 lol
price wise I mean
Do you ever max out that video card?
Can you even? I guess like multi-screen 4k maybe
Not yet I haven't, but I got close doing project cars 2 on max settings 1440p
at 200 fps lol
That's my monitor
It's not really a monitor
& it's not really a television
It's basically like a screen for departure times at airports or something
supposedly commercial displays last a really long time. They're designed for 24/7 operation
Or like you'd see in fast food places for the menus
lol ya exactly
if you wanted to go crazy they're also designed to be daisychained
you can also have multiple ones make a single picture
I just pretend it's a monitor
I like it tho. It's 4K HDR.
in a perfect world it would be at least 120Hz but what can I do
4k60 is still hard enough to run
I'm pretty sure 4K is usually around 60FPS anyway
Ya my 3060 can't even go full settings on 2019 Resident Evil 2 because I play it on 4K
200 fps is insane wow
UserBenchmark must have you as like DeathStar
You know it's been a long time since I've used them since their data is mostly garbage and skewed badly, but let me check
wooow
Hard drives always perform badly on there, there's not much reason to have them these days
223/108/239 vs my 120/107/129
I'm close to your desktop score but otherwise like half
Desktop is more influenced by SSD speed than anything else, multi core processor test second
it says on yours that the RTX3090 is $1500 lol
Yeah that's msrp, there's nothing in stock for it to check current prices. Plus it's an odd model that isn't detected well.
your 2012 HDD is outperforming the one I bought in like February
I don't get the model name. Extreme Waterforce? hmm
https://www.userbenchmark.com/UserRun/43279728 glad to see "desktop" so low 
The results on these Memory Kits makes me think I should've put money into speed instead of volume
The Aorus Extreme was always one of their top models (but this one kinda sucks) and the waterforce denotes it's got an AIO attached
ohh. did it come with an AIO?
Quality over quantity
Yeah it came with a 240mm AIO attached
ehhhhh dr makes up for a good amount of "quality"
You all may have beaten me by every metric but I bet you don't have a Pikachu light lol
No I think you got me there, I've only got my series 1 card collection lol
ya I made the mistake of giving away all my cards in like 2003
TBF only a few of them are actually worth any money
I have my Mew card they gave away with the first movie tickets still
you know I think I might actually have had that one too. I saw the movie the day it came out
I have a glowing tube xD
When Ash gets hit by Mew & Mewtwo & Pikachu thinks he's dead, very moving
oh niice
I wanna get the RGB thing to go in the reservoir like that
Yeah they picked a really good song for that scene too
I watched the movie again with my three-year-old a couple weeks ago
It's like I'm not crying lol
Its just a uv cathode and uv reactive fluid
Its a bykski something
That's similar to how I'm attempting to build mine
I think paul's hw had 2 of them in a 1000D?
but out of utter brilliance I decided to attempt rigid tubing
I figured if I can bend electrical conduit I can bend rigid hard tubing
It's not as easy tbh
The break point comes a lot faster than conduit
Wow 223% that makes sense yes
If you try to heat close to another bend, the heat will travel & start letting the other bend out
I got the little molding things but I don't really like them because they're too long
Trying to bend w/o a silicone insert is impossible
I swear they stopped trying to make relevant numbers
ya when are they going to move the precentages to something reasonable?
Never 
For this Fool is never early, nor is it late. He arrives precisely when he doesn't mean to.
Impact Prelude Kevin MacLeod (incompetech.com)
Licensed under Creative Commons: By Attribution 3.0 License
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/3.0/
0:00 - Intro
1:13 - Pre-Ryzen
1:26 - Ryzen 1000
3:07 - Ryzen 2000
3:49 - Changed benchmarks
5:20 - Ry...
What does a 3dmark score look like with a 3090? Like 25k?
100% is a i5 something and 1070
Swear they get their numbers the same way monitors are named
On an unrelated note, I've been meaning to watch that video about how people waste money buying power supplies they don't need
after putting all my parts into parts picker, I couldn't gotten away with like a 600w
NonO
With a 3060, yep you could
You always want psu head room
Ohh yeah nvm
I got an 850w for my next build & I bet it'll be way more than necessary
Better to have some headroom and a quality psu tho, stops you from having to buy a new one next time you upgrade
I mean, what psu do you think you need for a 5800x and 6900xt? ||I've tripped ocp on a 1000w||
Damm really?
Yeah
Oof
New gpus have stupid transients
More noob questions: why does that message have that black thing?
Was probs a decent psu too smh
like what you said was redacted?
Spoiler
No oc I'm guessing?
wow I get excited when I break 10k
3090 should be 20k+ tbh
That's whack tho, my 3070 overclocked gets 15.1k
It's a spoiler
Spoiler? Like when someone tells you what's going to happen in a movie you haven't watched yet or those things that create downforce at high speeds for better traction in your car? or it makes milk go bad?
what the heck is a spoiler?
More the first one. In his case he didn't want to spoil the answer to the question he asked.
oh right
When you're typing, highlight a word or sentence and hit the eye icon to mark it as a spoiler
||Like this||
"" for quotes
I'll be a discord pro in no time
"Ask not what your country can do for you, but what you can do for your country."
Didn't work?
"Whether you think you can or you can't, you're probably right."
...?
lol
xrandr --addmode HDMI-2 2560x1080_75.00
Why xrandr doesn't support ultra wide resolution natively I don't understand
|twice, before and after does spoiler.
space does quote.
~twice before and after does a slash through
"The only thing we have to fear, is fear itself."
lies
oh wait is this so I can respond directly to what other people said
not so I can put random famous quotes?
Use it however you think works
Reply used to do that, now its the cancerous ping hell
What's this ping thing I keep hearing about?
I try to remember to turn the ping off
This
I went in the nVidia Discord thing & people were talking about it
Vs this
oh the orange background?
If you're in a different channel, you get a ping
What does Dopp mean?
Hypa Hypa
oh like an audible alert that someone has replied to you?
Yeah
Music
oh ya I'm kinda out of touch with modern music
There's a half dozen covers of it now
I'm 33 & a dad so I'm allowed to not be cool anymore
Uhhhh dont watch the video with kids around, and be prepared to explain it to the wife 
Yes dad jokes are now required, so we can make everyone's eyes roll
Anyway I gotta head to bed, g'night guys
night
you got it
how come my picture didn't work
I still have the little discord mask thing
Prob didn't click save
I guess I have to graduate above Regular+ status?
it's showing on my phone
oh well
oh wait there it is
haha
Control+r will refresh discord
nice thank you
how much variation is there in thermal paste? is one significantly better than another?
I guess these are things I could ask Google
Not much, liquid metal is better but expensive and doesn't work on copper iirc
Something like arctic mx4 will do most people
It works on copper, just stains it and needs reapplication after a few months
Ahh yeah works was the wrong work but meant it's not a good idea longevity wise
overclocked the sh*t out of my i5 2500k (from 3.3ghz to 4.2ghz) lmao
I just used the coolermaster stuff that came with the AIO
Yeah the included paste is the best because it's free X)
Fine with me if there's no significant difference between the one it comes with & some other one
128GB DDR4 on consumer is not only very hard to run, but liable to cause memory errors, even at XMP
I'm glad I didn't blow money on that
I'm gonna back on subzero soon
You can probably hit a safe daily 4.5 or 5.0 on air for benches
opinions on amd ryzen master software overclocking?
dont
its ok not great
what cpu u got?
@faint tangle
Reason: Bad word usage
God- can't say that either
3600
Ik I can do bios but I'm not the sharpest tool in the shed when it comes to dealing with bios
alr
not ocing just yet but i might be upgrading gpu a bit, and i dont think a 3600 would be great with a 3070 at 1080p gaming
not at all...
really?
bottlenecks are over hyped
you can run a 3090 with a 3600 without any noticeable bottlenecks
ikr?
any1 have an 8700k & MSI MAG z270 ace\
coffee modded your z270?
my bad... z370*
damn, got me all excited
been running for 5 days straight, beautiful oc
+1500? and no hash rate loss?
How's your rejecteds doing
That's running way too hot tho 70c is core your mem is gonna be on fire
Up your fans
Especially at 30% fan
🔥🔥
Yep
No wait pato chill
Its fine
Its 37%
Not 30
Ohh 37 okay okay
Its also just gddr6, not 6x, so it doesn't produce nearly as much heat
Yeah but the core is like 70c the mems gonna be a good bit hotter not much heat is being moved clearly
Depending on the power draw, its most likely perfectly fine
70%
That's what the afterburner sc says but tdp of a 2080 ti is like 250w
So 70% of 250w is what? 😏
175w would be fine but you shouldn't be getting temps that high
.
what
its gddr6, shouldn't be getting that hot at all and mem oc is gonna have a 5c diff max depending on model
It's cuz their fans are at 30% tho
may get a little hot if it doesn't, but it'll throttle adequately
No point to leave fans that low
If you want it to be quiet do like 50%
I dont even hear mine at 70%
Yeah i sleep with mine at 70% hardly hear it in an airflow case
If the overclock is averaging 86 degrees (10900K) on Cinebench R23 at 1.3v... that's too high huh?
It's warm but within tolerance
max temp 95 on 4/10 cores
Ah 95 is throttling
Good move, that'll help with the VRM a little too
I just watched the GamerNexus review of the EK Elite
& I'm gonna go w/ the arctic to save $75
I can live without the RGB. There's enough of that going on in my case already
Yeah arctic is still the best imo
ya the interesting part was how the push/pull doesn't do anything at 100% on the EK
oh look there is an RGB version for an extra $20
EK use their Vardar fans which are really overkill. Their advice was sound, use the extra fans on the case lol
ya that's exactly what they said
I already have fans laying around I don't need
I'm gonna wait & order it a little later tho to see if that "get it tomorrow" thing shows up
you can get Arctic P12 with RGB now, so if you can fit a 360mm rad, you can get Arctic RGB fans
oof
1 hour & 35 minutes OCCT w/ AVX hitting 97
but average 66 so I dunno
Is P12 better than Freezer II?
Arctic P12 is the fan that comes on the Liquid Freezer 2
I'm saying that you can get RGB with the Liquid freezer 2 if you buy Arctic's P12 RGB fans
(but it has to be 240mm or 360mm)
ah I got u
I was a little confused tbh
but I usually am on Discord
is the EK AIO Basic better than Arctic Freezer II?
ek is closest tho
@zenith palm not ek aio basic
got it got it
Basic is wacky
Ek-aio drgb yes, very close
Ek aio basic don't have enough testing on, but igor's lab testing seems to point it towards just mediocre
Hey so I've been away for a while and have only gotten back to messing with the mess of a patriot ram kit I got, to the best of my understanding increasing soc voltage to help the memory controller won't do anything if it's just bad bin ram right?
Thats wack i thought they were basically the same :/
Only decent testing I saw was igor's lab, and yea
Wack
not bad for a tec + fuma2 and one fan
Is the clock not reporting correctly?
who knows, was just a stock test
oh lol, didn't think to look at the temp
its still 75F out, and doing 15c atm seems like a win
later tonight it should get colder
https://valid.x86.fr/85z170 meh 2500k is 🥔
Damn, that was best max valid all core?
One of the cores is def a dud since 2c valid is 5.3
Any manual pbo recommendations/where to start for Ryzen 5 3600?
Start with maxing out your power limits and see how high it goes
Should i check what power my cpu spikes at atm and then increase from there or? Should i just start at the useless tdp lol
Whatever the max is for each of your power settings. My board limit is 1000 PPT (no limit essentially), 114 TDC, and 180 EDC.
It won't hurt your motherboard, only voltage will do that. The board can protect itself if something goes wrong with the current or temps.
Okay, will it just not post if it doesn't like the settings, or will it stop me from entering it in, also will that do anything different than using the motherboard setting in pbo or are they more conservative?
The only thing that will change are behaviors under heavy load
The CPU won't max out the power draw just because it can now, this is just to give it more breathing room so it can boost higher for longer without being starved for power.
Okay thanks, so should 3d mark do stress test wise to see if it helps or would cinebench or occt or something be a better suit
Time Spy will give you an idea of what the power load when gaming is, OCCT will max it out to see how hot it gets.
Alternatively Prime95 small fft to max out power/heat
Make sure you're running a monitoring tool in the background like hwinfo so you can see what the peak is for everything
Okay I'll try that then
If i go to far with some of the numbers will it just perform worse or?
Kinda throttle like?
Worst case it overheats and throttles
Ahh okay
So @sudden torrent do you think i should start at something like that
Max it out. The CPU will only use what it needs, and the board knows its limits.
Leave boost clock override at 0 for now, you'll adjust that last, and increasing incrementally, testing stability
Leave Scalar on auto
@sudden torrent i did 500 100 150 it only used max of 97, 56 and 77, is there a point going higher or should i just work ok the scaler now
Should be fine if it's only using that much. I forgot you're using a lower power chip than me lol.
Run a cinebench test and compare to baseline, you should see an improvement already.
Then you can do +200 offset and test again. If it's unstable at that point, you can go lower.
Okay, well i ran with 0 boost clock overdrive and it performed the same as before with the motherboard limits on timespy but I'll run again with the offset this time and see how it goes
Or should I switch to cinebench instead?
Time Spy CPU score works
Once you've got those results you can play with the scalar. This is the one you don't want to just max out, since it increases voltage. You'll need to watch your load voltage and temps.
See if it's stable at +200 offset, worst case it just doesn't boost as high, which will be noticeable in scores. Honestly this is one of those things you just need to play around with to get your optimal settings anyway.
Okay thanks
setting TDC/EDC too high can actually degrade performance. For a 3600 I would start at 60 TDC/EDC, increase by 5 (or 10) A at a time, and bench to see if performance degrades
if performance degrades, go back, and then start increasing only EDC
looks like you already topped out at 56 TDC. I guess 55-60 TDC would be fine, then start at 60 EDC and increase by 5
Should i just use slightly over the amps for the maximum i got in my test or what do you think?
I would go slightly conservative on amps, especially for TDC
the manufacturing process node that Zen 2 and Zen 3 chips are made on (N7) is pretty tough against temperature and voltage, but weak to current
I don't think you'll degrade your chip with PBO, but the boosting behavior considers the fact that the chip is most likely weak to current, so you might end up with reduced performance
I doubt you'll actually see a different though, that close to the limit
random af but im using ryzen master profile 1 PBO - for my 3600 its maxing at 4.16ghz @ 64C. is my ram holding me back? its trash at the moment - gskill 2x 4GB 2132 and corsair 2x 8GB 2132 - memory set to Coupled OFF - 1500 and 1333 fabric clock....
2133 ram? Decoupled IF is always a performance hit
the ram is ddr4 2132
Defo holding you back
NOt necessarily from the overclock
But for everything else
Benchmarks, games, etc
dont ask why but right now its these two kits: https://www.newegg.com/g-skill-8gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820231882
and
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-16gb-288-pin-ddr4-sdram/p/N82E16820236419
hmmm so the board is holding me back right
on my strix E gaming the auto OC went to like 4.45ghz and now in the F gaming II its barely pushing 4.1ghz
Thanks for the advice
No the CPU is
4.16 is decent all core for a 3600
if indeed you are getting that all core
at the same time in ur pc?
remove the Gskill stick
and run only corsair
slot 2 and 4
You need to hit the tick, then save it to a profile and hit the windows button if you want it applied on boot
but the windows button is greyed out
Go into the settings then and make sure open on windows boot or something is ticked
You have to save a preset first
smart. i should try that. but really i need to upgrade to the ballistix 32gb 2x 16gb 3600 kit.
Good choice
@lavish tundra @clever epoch - im wicked confused lol - Ryzen Master is showing the auto PBO is cranking my 3600 to 1.38 and 1.4.... and asus AI whatever is showing core voltage at 1.4+ like constantly closer to 1.45... isnt that way, way too high for 24/7 use?
I feel like there should be a pin by now that explains this lol.
Its while almost no programs are open yeah?
Ryzen Zen 2 and 3 chips will, by default, adjust the voltages automatically based on the workload.
Voltages up to 1.5V are common and to be expected, because "high" voltage (up to ~1.6V) on its own won't cause degradation. It's usually a combination of voltage and power (current) that causes degradation.
Keep in mind that the most common form of degradation (electromigration) is a combination of: Temperature, Voltage, Current, and Time.
The effects of the different combinations vary from manufacturing node to node (this is why Intel chips get away with a bit higher voltages and a lot of current), and even from processor to processor due to manufacturing variance.
So the default boost algorithm knows (roughly) what it's dealing with, and will adjust the voltage dynamically with the knowledge that high voltage at low load (current) is perfectly safe, and as soon as you start drawing any real amount of power, it will drop the voltage accordingly.
In the case of Zen 2 and Zen 3, the process node (TSMC N7) is pretty resilient to voltage and temperature, but weak to current
Reason: Bad word usage
NOTE: Setting the voltage too high will automatically degrade/destroy the processor, regardless of current. That's going to be in the territory of 1.6V+
for sure
What warning are you referring to?
honestly, its for work. im not chasing any overclock scores or something
well, ASUS AI software warns me that the vcore is high
ASUS AI "DUAL INTELLIGENT PROCESSORS 5"
If you're on stock settings then you should be fine. Be careful about messing with LLC though
yeah im just using Ryzen Master and PBO to do all the stuff automatically
and clocked my ram higher
Afaik Asus doesn't do "negative droop" LLC anymore but even the zero droop stuff is questionable
I recommend using BIOS instead, at least for final tuning
final tuning for PBO?
i thought ryzen master has full access to all bios CPU and RAM control
RM can do some funky things sometimes. Also your settings won't automatically apply without doing them in BIOS
And if you're on Zen3, I don't think RM allows you to use the curve optimizer
is the curve optimizer only able to be set in bios?
il google it lol sorry
https://www.reddit.com/r/Amd/comments/khtx1o/guide_zen_3_overclocking_using_curve_optimizer/ seems pretty awesome but i dont think my use case is good for this. i need solid reliability.
It's only for 5000 series CPU's
Not 3600
oh. thank you
Your CPu is Zen 2
yeah im just going to use ryzen master PBO. and dial RAM in bios
i see. ill explore that when i upgrade later. cheers.
IMO, BIOS better than Ryzen Master. Some settings changes require a reboot anyway so may as well just dabble in the BIOS.
really. hmm. I did liquid cool this 3600 so i might as well get the most, safely, out of it
Yet
PBO does a little but but unlocking EDC, PPT, TDC, raising SOC voltage and a couple other things really makes a difference as well.
hmmmm and ryzen master doesnt tweak those....
even in manual mode....
okay
should i just uninstall the asus AI stuff and go old school in bios? thats what i always used to do
Asus AI suite is good for fan control and that's about it
Ryzen Master is good for seeing CPU specs
lolol
thanks
ty!
best run i could get on gpu score
Nice, #1 config?
okay?
thats good
only 1 core boosting tho mostly
My best
I swapped out my Coolermaster ML350P to a Arctic Freezer II. Thermals on 3DMark, Cinebench R23, & UserBenchMark, dropped 7, 4, & 5 degrees respectively. I still can't get a 51 Core ratio w/o hitting TJMAX or getting L0 Cache errors tho. The best I've done is get my ring ratio up to 49 with a CPU ratio of 50, but at 49 it tops out at 96 degrees on R23.
So I'm thinking I'll leave it at 48 ring & 50 CPU ratio with 0 AVX offset & pretty decent thermals
userbenchmark ewwww
also the thing is, what cpu ur overclocking is slightly more important than the cooler ur using lmao
ye by a long shot
beats my previous score (which was still the best just not by much) by like 100 points overall
all it took was a fresh install of windows and some tactical service killing
nice! is this all core oc or pbo?
you're like 200 points off of 5500xt
lmaoo
all core
What good cheap motherboard can do overclocking for a i5 11400?
Z490/590
Okie dokie. Thank you!
B series can't overclock CPU's on Intel
Cuz Intel poopy
and the Z series aren't cheap :/
that'll only let you do memory overclocking
Even though it says it can?
What is memory overclocking?
Won't that break the ram?
more of running memory faster than intel approved
Um. Buddy. The Z series uses pins.