#building-and-recc-chat
1 messages · Page 1295 of 1
I did
Try again
Dont make any screw too tight
And put all screws halfway in before tightning em
That isn’t working
I think it’s the battery or something
The fans aren’t spinning as fast as they were when I first put the cooler in
So what exactly happened you had a working rig then you put the aio in and it doesnt want to display does it post?
aint no battery thatll magically just die like that
no display output at all
Did u try it?
No display
Also what cpu
I5 I think
Ok take off the cooler and the cpu
And send me a pic of the place where the cpu goes
Like th socket
also try clearing cmos by popping the coin battery out for a minute
What is that
Send me the pic first
I doubt its cmos
doubtful but it never hurts
Fair enough
his battery is prolly gunna be under his gpu
@frank stirrup yo
Yo had to go take care of cat
justified
btw 12600K was $230 on newegg for a while. Now that would be a good price. Really nothing wrong with 12400(F) & a bonus to no E-cores would be no extra reliance on Win11. 
Guys cpu is most probably dead btw
blur 100
AlmightyAdvanced guy
Nice cooler
Hey I know it’s a rookie question but if I get 2 sets of the exact 2x16gb ram does it matter the slot I put each one?
Depending on what ram u buy even with the same kit, compatibility isnt guaranteed
Get a 2x32 kit
If u need 64gb ram
Its very overkill for most purposes tho
like if you literally went on Amazon and when in your cart you selected the drop down for “Amount” and selected 2 from that drop down (so now you have two of the same exact kit), that’s basically like buying a 4x16GB kit. so, if you’re running dual-channel, it won’t matter because there’s only four slots
if you have a quad-channel mobo (8 slots), check your motherboard’s manual for what to do
Yeah I went on Amazon and selected 2 from the drop down
I have 4 slots
I was just worried my pc wouldn’t boot up if I didn’t put it in right
I’m buying a gigabyte x570s aero G so it only has four slots. But I could put the 4 ram however is what you’re saying?
yes
I appreciate all of you guy’s help thanks so much
I would but for aesthetic purpose I like to have 4 sticks tbh😭
But why
this is not true
if you're buying a 4x16 kit you're getting an xmp profile rated for 4x16
ohhh
if you buy 2x 2x16 kits you're getting xmp rated for 2x16 that has a high chance of not working for 4x16
also, depending on the manufacturer, the kits of 2x16 may even have different ICs underneath
if you buy 2 kits of corsair 2x16 it's not unlikely you end up with 2 sticks of hynix afr and 2 sticks of samsung c-die that won't even boot xmp
Why do u need 64gb ram tho
Just want to build an overkill pc
I’m buying g.skill trident Royal series
What cpu u got
5950x
64gb can actively reduce your gaming performance compared to 32gb of faster ram
so maybe you should re-evaluate
Speed vs overkill
64gb is harder to run fast than 32gb
Ah okay so I shouldn’t get 64?
Idk cause I’ve seen people use kind of the same pieces and said 64 ram was better that’s why I thought it was
if you don't know why you need 64gb then you don't need 64gb
Better having faster ram as long as you have enough of it
if you don't need 64gb then 32gb faster ram is objectively better
And it’s like a big controversy on ram cause I’ve seen people use 2 sets of 2x16 and it works perfectly fine but others say it won’t be compatible that’s why I wanted some input
it's a lottery
literally not possible to say if yours will work or not
at least at xmp
you can obviously run it stock or manual tuned
if all you're doing is gaming, the 5800x also beats the 5950x, and they also both generally lose to 12th gen
need to wait for more ryzen 7 5800x3d benchmarks to make a conclusion on that
but buying the most expensive parts does not always lead to the best performance
the most expensive ram kit I've seen was $10000 for a kit of 2TB 3200c22
that ram kit would get crushed by my 16gb $80 kit in gaming performance
my $300 ryzen 7 5800x also beats $8000 xeons and epycs at gaming
What about ballistix max lol
But anyways, faster ram > more ram
I thought the 5133c16 or whatever was like 10000$
Well if someone is buying 2TB ram I don't think they worrying about gaming performance
1k or something for 16gb of 5600c18 or something
💀
It was some crazy xmp
With a crazy price
Technically you could see gains going from like 2x16 SR 16gbit rev b to 4x16 SR 16gbit rev b
I’m doing gaming and content creating
@earnest olive get recked
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/nyYWGX/corsair-dominator-platinum-128gb-8-x-16gb-ddr4-3200-memory-cmd128gx4m8b3200c16
that's still not more than $10000
Most content creation will just be done on your gpu anyway
Ohhh I thought it said 1k
we're talking about an 8x256gb kit here lol
Sounds like something Forky would get
Why does that exist
because some people have a use case for 2tb ram
it’s much cheaper to buy 2x8
what of course 2x8 is cheaper
but do you think discord is hosted on a gaming PC with 16gb
true, the entirety of amazon aws probably runs on an i5-2310M with 8gb ddr3
they generally do
it's still ddr4 though
Poopy corsair ram servers
clicking tech deals for the 1029392th time instead of build chat
when will this end
why the heck are the channels swapped around?
Ask the mods
Ik I do 
Haha skill issue
😭
To screw with our muscle memory
H...h.... how did you know?
the x99 bencher
ignore the fact i've only submitted a few scores on lga2011-3 so far

i have your x79 board
skill issue
Wow.... Bacca? More like wont give your boards backa
😔

I like the idea of submitting #1 scores using less common or obscure boards
thats kinda what im doing on x79 with my extreme9 and p9x79-e ws
i had a fatal1ty prof and p9x79le but i dont have them anymore
i think you mean my extreme9
the fatal1ty board was freaking cursed though
i still have my asus board
if i turn around and it isnt there anymore...
:)
@sullen spoke so what I'm trying to understand is what numbers I can reference for overall run times on back ups.
Have a APC 1000va/600w
And a Cyber power pure sine 1500va/1000w.
Both under zero load. The APC estimates 312 min run time. While the cyber power is only 190
Kinda confused how that's possible.
My only thoughts are maybe APC is over estimating. Because the second it's under load of PC being on it drops to like 30-45 min (which I know it's gonna drop alot from no load to some load). Just not getting why roughly half the amount of run time in a significantly bigger UPS.
im no electrician but it'd probably have to do with the fact that the cyber power is rated for higher output rather than capacity. But I'd say as long as you have 10-20min under some load you should be good. the purpose of a ups is to be able to gracefully shutdown rather than the pc or equipment suddenly shutting off that could cause harm to some configs. most ups have a usb or network port so you can tell your device to auto shutdown in the case of power loss or say auto shutdown if there is no power in x minutes, etc.
Yea I just wanted to understand the difference. I thought the wattage rating was to handle higher output. Like the more wattage my PC draws bigger rating I'd need.
But I don't really understand the VA part and I thought that was the size of the UPS and the wattage was the load it could handle
And you're right I don't need but even 5 min to shut my PC down. Reason I'm torn on the battery life is because we do get outages here that aren't always brief and I'd like to be able to charge my phone etc. Which this new ups has a type c port on the front etc specifically for it
va is volt amp rating. it is the max load ups can handle. 1000 or 1500va should be fine for a standard pc iirc
Overall I still got the better ups. Got pure sine wave and can handle 400 more watts.
I just didn't expect the runtime differences and the OCD is kicking in.
My mind is saying keep both or return both and get even bigger one lol... This is my life
So what's the wattage then? As I thought that was the max load rating? Similar to the PSU having a wattage rating for how much it can output
sometimes it could also just come down to how they test it. I think my ups gets like 30ish min on ~200w load
I always understood wattage as power
I gotcha. I guess I need to just test the thing out. Was hesitant to use it
Feel like APC could be blowing smoke with those high estimates. When the cyber power is under load should tell the truth id think
does getting higher end CPUs make a difference in gaming?
Sure, to an extent. More computing power. I is noob though.
To an extent + depends on game, resolution and what gpu is being used with it
oh okay.
The cyber power is also like twice the size and battery is definitely much bigger. So the fact it shows less run time off gate irks me.
I am probably just gonna stick with either Ryzen 5 or Intel i5 if that is the case because I don't want to go overbudget for something I don't really need.
that's going to start getting out of my area of knowledge but wattage is the power being drawn vs apparent power? idk how to describe
I thought the VA would be similar to amp hours. Which is usually associated with run time. The wattage is how big of a setup it could effectively power without being overloaded. That's my take on it atleast
If VA isn't associated with run time then idk what is. And it sounds like these companies make up these time estimates specific to each model of there's nothing to go off other than what they claim on the box...
It should be based off battery size and load capacity
you can always try pulling the plug and seeing either how long it goes or see the estimates change
Yea that's only thing left to do is see what the estimated run time is under load. PC draws about 100w running with just browser open. APC estimated 30-45 min... If the cyber power isn't better I'm just gonna be endlessly confused
I have to remind myself this is the better ups option regardless. Has 400w more and pure sine..
I waited because it suggested I plug the ups into the wall for 8 hours to make sure battery fully charged.
Just used to this kind of thing being more cut and dry. In car electronics there's no confusion. Ratings are ratings..
Recommendations for a motherboard for 12700k? And dual 3070s?
sli gaming is dead tho
as for 3070’s, what ones are available near you and for what price?
he might mean dual as in two fans
2x3070 not as good at gaming as a single better card
since 3070 cant even bridge
well yeah dual 3070’s is plural cause theres many of them
VA = W as in Volts X Amps = Watts but don't ask me why UPS has a certain wattage rating then a VA rating that's 50ish % higher. Perhaps the VA number is like the actual max wattage load it could handle, but runtime would be getting bad if load was 500+ watts. APC is more $$ but I'm tempted to get it:
That model is a 1500va/600w.
The cyber power 1500/1000w was actually cheaper. On sale from 267$ down to like 219
This apc is 900w, and temporarily $219 but I missed it.
Oh. Well I saw ones for 240 that were only 600w.
The none pure sine option of same size was 1500/900 for 240
The pure sine was 1500/600 for 240
Make sure not mixing them up
I'd wager that's not the pure sine option.
Normal back ups. When I was browsing APC to get the 1500/600w pure sine it was 239$... Or could get older option without pure sine wave for same price and got 900w instead.
Well maybe you are seeing one for that price.
Hm
Technically none of these are, but this is the one similar to the $220ish cyberpower
There prices are all over the damn place it's a joke honestly
No that does appear to be the pure sine option
You were right
Says it right there sine wave UPS. The ones that don't offer pure sine won't say anything about it per what I've seen
Maybe I saw an older model APC UPS idk. Or got mixed up. Might have gone with the APC had I known. But overall the cyber power is getting better reviews it seems.
Yep. I just wish there was an ez way to hook up a car battery or somethin. Runtime is about capacity aka AH amp hours & stock batteties are 10-20AH each while an average car batt is 100-200AH 🤣 - yeah so many various UPS devices! Is yours the $220ish model? Btw if similar load that 1000VA model would have lower runtime at the least, I guarantee. Well, certain average pc loads at least.
VA -volt-amperes is apparent power....and Wattage is real power.
Well that's just a stupid way to rate
Yea I got this for 219... Now I'm wondering if I shoulda got the 900w pure sine APC
I'll know for sure when I test the run time on the cyber power this evening
I swear to god lol... At this rate I'ma be returning both the ones I got. I don't want the smaller APC I currently have as it threw a code already, don't trust it. And haven't tested the cyber power one yet came in yesterday
I read some stuff about the usb ports on APC option were crappy and the type c wasn't a true type C port. Assuming they mean turbo charging idk
It blows my mind that the advertised run time estimate is almost double on the APC. It's a 1000va/600, estimates 312 min runtime no load... The cyber power is a 1500va/1000w. It shows 190 min no load lol... Actually putting it under load will hopefully yield the results Im expecting
Ah, oh that's pretty much the competitor to the apc I posted. APC batteries don't always last a long time, but ez to find replacements & of course UPS is what apc is known for. I think 1 or both of those are wrong. 300min sounds high on the 1000VA & 200ish seems way low for no load. I want one that could at least power a modem for 1 or 2 whole days. That's why I mentioned car batt , lol.
Guess I'm gonna start making ups with ACCURATE ratings lmao.
This is driving me absolutely nuts... And it really shouldn't be.
Numbers are supposed to be the ONE absolute thing in this world.. why I like math
As you can see in my pic of them side by side... The APC immediately plummets to around 30-45 min run time with PC simply running.
I'ma test the cyber power this evening after work. Fingers crossed the run time estimate is higher under load as it freaking should be shouldn't it lol?
@strong raft PS there's youtubes of people hooking car batteries to UPS. Do what you wish with that information. I'm not messing with it.
When I build my tiny home in a couple years I'ma have battery back up for the entire house. Natural gas generator the whole 9. Screw the grid
Yoo did you know they make thermoelectric generators now you can attach to a wood burning stove? You can literally heat your home and power it with the wood stove
how much power can it put out?
I cant imagine you could get that much off a wood stove
So cool. We are slaves to the grid. And it's so out of date it's not even funny. California already literally had to ask the small percentage of Electric vehicle owners to "to go easy on charging" last summer as they were about to collapse the grid LOL
Man they get HOT. Don't underestimate power from heat
yeah but alot of that energy is lost in conversion
People are powering small homes with them from what I've seen. But it was months ago I was sbinge watching it. Can't remember number stats.
hmm
Yeah runtime is usually literally about Amp-Hours, like w/ battery power tools. Not a fan of the lcd screen because it uses some power, but oh well. Power from heat sure is interesting. Agreed on CA. Last year 7-8 days of no power if I recall. Around new years was running 3dmark at night when power shutoff, grr
Maybe Im over estimating what it could do... But they burn coal to power modern homes.
I'd think a wood stove could power a small 200 sq foot home.
You're also not using any of that to the heat the house as that's already done
One thing that was interesting is the cyber powers are energy star certified meaning they use less than 20-30% of the fed requirements. APC does not have that rating at all. They're pigs apparently
Or at the least the wood stove could be a source of charging for your batteries. Have solar power, wind, and recycle what energy you'd otherwise lose while heating your home into more power to sustain your system
yeah
Idk if something on a stove could do much, but I'll sure look into it. Weird roof & I rent so Solar isn't in the cards (yet)
It was just really freaking cool to me.
I also have wanted this special campfire stove that has a mini thermo generator on it and you can charge your phones, laptops etc while camping just by having a fire
Search thermoelectric generators on wood stoves. People are playing with it for sure. I think it has potential.
We are just now really straying from relying on the grid. God knows how much information has been suppressed by big oil/tech
I'll check. Fridge is really the biggest deal, although not a steady load & they have their high startup load.
Usually not a concern. Before those old power shutdowns I would fill a bunch of extra water bottles & put them in fridge and freezer for more cold mass. It helped
yeah for sure
The way I see it, is have a large battery system to power your home..and be able to recharge it multiple diff ways. Wind and solar in the summer... Rely more on heat from the stove in the winter
I think it's more powerful than people realize. Wood stoves get seriously hot.
Have y'all ever seen oil burning heaters that car shops use? They heat their shop for free using used motor oil. Dang things burn so hot once you get it lit that it's insane.
Lol say a video yesterday a guy put a tiny wood stove in his ford ranger because heater core went out... He cut a hole in the roof for the stack.
Had it 160 degrees in there dead winter lmao.
Lol please don't do that.
"here would you like some metal shavings from this person's car who didn't change their oil for 50k miles lol"
put water in their car
Either shops pay to dispose of the used oil, or they use a heater and burn it off efficiently. Probably arguably better than whatever they do to "recycle" it
In gas tank
Yes. Water compresses way better than air. Adds 20 horsepower
Sugar too
Yeah I've used a kerosene heat many times. They put out some heat, also some smoke so not great in a home 😅. Whole home battery great but that really would be a huge load possibly. That's why a normal gas/diesel gen is so more common. Fuel getting expensive though. $6/gal here, yikes. Could be $30+/day on a gen.
I think the use motor oil deal is about like recycling anything else.
I read that over 90% of what we put in recycling doesn't actually get recycled. Stuff like laundry detergent jugs and other stuff that people don't wash out. They just send it to the dump. The small percentage that's left gets exported to places like china where their recycling practices are more harmful than just tossing it in the dump
If the used oil is good enough, I just dump it in my fuel tank
Recycling & saving money not buying heater oil or w/e.
That's tiny scale. Think commercial shop doing numerous oil changes per day. I'd fill up 50 gallon drums FAST... My first job was changing oil at 15
What you drive a diesel?
Oh God lol
Used motor oil actually does well on gravel areas
Just hope you never want to grow anything there
Should talk to local restaurants they often have to pay to dispose of their used cooking oil.
Lol, oil in tank isn't worse for a diesel? Guess that's better than a bit of gasoline in yhe tank.
It's not a huge amount
A gallon in a 35 gallon tank won't do much
Diesels don't really care
Some diesels don't like it tho
No it's actually not. Diesels have INSANE compression compared to gas engines... Diesels don't need spark plugs. The compression is so high that it brings the ignition temperature down so low that the heat in the cylinders alone ignites the air/fuel mixture.
If a turbo seal or something blows and the engine starts sucking oil into it it can run away and blow up on its own.
True, I just think about how my grandparents have a well & I try to keep oil faw away from any ground water.
Reason gas is bad for a diesel is because the ignition temp is too low. The mixture would ignite too early and cause engine detonation
Alot of people think octane rating means bigger bang. It's actually it's anti knock rating meaning it's more resistant to combustion. High horsepower race cars need high octane rating
Yeah
Higher octane usually has better carbon scavenger properties too
I usually run premium in all my gas vehicles once a year or so
Just gotta make sure the cars computer can handle premium
I got physically attacked by a family member one time for saying I thought it was stupid I couldn't drill a well on my property if I lived in city limits.
Who knew the east coast was in a water crisis. Oh right it's not lol
Some can't and just knock like mad lol
On premium?
Should be the opposite I'd think. But no telling with these new cars meant to run on a mix of Ethanol
I meant going higher octane rating and then getting a knock
The octane rating is the anti knock rating of that fuel. Higher octane less chance of knock
So many variables
Higher octane is resistance to detonation
Which is the anti knock rating.
Detonation and knock can be the same thing.
Some confuse that with like rods or lifters knocking. Sometimes a thicker oil viscosity can solve that kind of knock
Or adjusting the lifters
Old vehicles used to tell you how to adjust the valves etc in the owners manual. Now days people can't even change their oil LOL
But anyhow
It's gonna be a crazy day when I'm powering my PC with a fire LOL
Too lazy to screw with it just to run premium once a year
Lol I lost my license for a while 😂
Pre*-detonation. 
Stupid game. Really stupid prize
Anti-knock rating** lol.
Pre-ignition is the word you want I think there. Pre-ignition is detonation
Maybe, we know what I'm meaning though at least.
Can be catastrophic in a gas engine since they have spark plugs too. You get two flame fronts colliding versus just a early ignition
Yea I'm no like world renowned expert by any means. Just sharing my memory of my time in a shop and auto school
Wasn't meant as a correction. We're all talking about same thing overall
I got to see a whole piston shoot out the side of an engine one time in school. Was a brand new crate engine on the engine dynos for first time ever. Was glorious. Teacher was mad... I was in tears laughing. Some idiot didn't torque the piston connectint rod cap to the crank properly and it came undone and exited the engine lol
Lmao
Blow a hole out the side totally ruined it 😂😂
I saw a spark plug shoot out of a 5.4
Thats nuts! All good. Hey I just bought this for $150 yesterday, wth bestbuy.
Try entire piston, rod and all coming out the side of a 350 V8
I made the teacher even madder because I was just dying laughing. I immediately said "what idiot didn't torque that down?"
Lmao
I also got to tune cars on a chassis dyno an had a turboed Integra... Teacher would put a base tune on it down around 280 HP and we'd tune it up. Teacher said beat he'd ever gotten was like 403hp.
I went last because I wanted to observe. See what worked and what didn't.
I kid you not I hit 444hp and then the straps broke and car came off the dyno 😂
Teacher pulled me aside after class and whispered "wtf did you do you gotta tell me".
Priceless memories. Scared the teacher so bad as he was worried about people around the car as it really did jump clean off the dyno 😂
My only response I gave the teacher was "it's all about that VTEC baby"
Anddddd now I'm back to second guessing myself on that UPS lol. Was good while it lasted
I want proof smh
Of ?
444
If I had the spec sheet I'd show ya. This was before smart phones sadly
No reason to lie. The block was built to handle 1000hp all day. Then was a bit under powered overall so students wouldn't hurt the car as easily doing diff things to tune it
Part of it was going last. You get little more power after a few pulls in some instances. I had my strategies lol. Advance the timing a bit and I delayed VTEC more than anyone else had thought to try
Ye
When VTEC kicked in the torque steer alone (fwd cars have one axle longer than the other so the short one gets more torque then pulls that way) almost pulled the car off the dyno. Teach looked at me like a deer in the headlights as he was driving
I'm the black sheep of the family who lost their license for a bit and the only cousin in my family who didn't go to university I went to trade school. Yet I fix all their stuff constantly..from cars to lawnmowers. They'd be helpless or spending money constantly on shop repairs if not for me
Yeah trade schools epic
I hope to learn PCs at least close to as well as I know engines etc. Appreciate y'all's help for sure
I've considered it
Well, at the same time they're a scam. Be CAREFUL
I found out after the fact that the school I went to (ATI in VA beach) wasnt failing kids that they should have. If they were getting a fat financial aid check they'd pass that student. Literally no shop would hire me anywhere once that school was on my resume
That sucks yeah
They all said same thing "we've hired too many kids from these trade schools that just don't know sh**"
I'd be like "but I worked in a shop from literally my first job at 15 years old to now. I was putting cars on the lift before I could legally drive y'all.".
They didn't care
I had a friend tell me about this one shop hired a kid fresh out the nascar technical institute. Top school in the nation. He literally had to ask which way to turn the bolt to drain OIL
He didn't know righty tighty lefty loosey
Bruh
The issue is in that environment people can get away with not learning. You got 8-10 students standing around a car watching a teacher. Some pay attention some don't.
Mhmm
Id go into the ice car field but I don't know how sustainable of a career that is
You're better off going to a community college program in some cases as it's significantly cheaper and possibly much better credentials.
I'm refusing to pay my loan back because I went from a good job to not being able to get a job prior to enrolling in that school. It falls under a false certification. Meaning a school is offering a certificate that no employer considers valuable/credible... Worthless
Yea
One community college near me has a solid auto program. I shoulda just done that one but I didn't know what I do now.
But all in all everything happens for a reason. I now manage a engineering firm and sit at a desk playing on my phone like right now
Not breaking my back changing oil when I should be doing full diagnostics making bank. I have enough work experience alone to get master certified yet no shop would even look at me.
Just engineering they got a company they get surveying from
We also do some residential/commercial land development
Ah ok
Building a neighborhood right outside my office.
Not having a license though... That's like the worst thing ever. .. doesn't matter I own 10% of the 750k valued building I work in. Sign my own paychecks etc.
Soon though. Hopefully this June I'll be in a company vehicle
No. I had to learn that I'm just not like other people and alcohol does really wierd things to me
Most people get dizzy and sick if they drink too much.
I black out and no one can even tell . Basically become a different person per what friends told me. I haven't drank in over 4 years now and do not miss it
Apparently I drove one night and woke up in jail. Had no idea how I got there
Weird
I went to AA meetings alot there at the beginning trying to understand it. Because I just wanted to have a few drinks with friends and be that social person etc. Was hard to come to terms with.
Mhmm
But I wasn't alone. Some in AA describe it as an allergy to alcohol. Or that they call them spirits for a reason
Anyhow..didn't mean to stray from build chat. We just been having some solid convos today apparently lol
hey i need help with my build i wanna test the parts but i dont know what i am doing
i just wanna boot it up rq
to see if it works rn
What parts is it?
Have you ever seen the original one that audio is from?
Idk how I missed that earlier. My discord loaded a ton of stuff in just now lol
In the original clip where the actual guy from OSHA shows up and says they got a shoring problem and the guy can't be down in the hole... Right after he says it the hole collapses and the guy down in there has to jump and hang from a pipe spanning across the hole. Almost died right there right after OSHA called them out. Crazy. Like he used his OSHA powers to prove a point
Yeah I've seen it lol
I'd be cursing myself if I was the guy in the hole
Ofc it has to collapse right when OSHA is there
Reason: Bad word usage
SHOOT, lol I'd be tickled. If that was me I know id have already voiced concerns about doing things that aren't safe, woulda been made fun of and told to go down there anyways. And now OSHA witnessed it. Bout to get paiddddd lol
Woulda got me out of the hole and I'd have sprawled out like I'd been hit by a bus
When I worked at custom yacht place the fire dept showed up one day and was like "uh yea this entire list of things is wrong and if this shop catches on fire we will literally let it burn to the ground before entering the building and risking our fire fighters.
Coords draped on the floor, random piles of junk everywhere. Too many trip hazards in a smoked out environment. Was an eye opener to how legit some of their concerns are. OSHA is over the top sometimes tho
Joking about the lawsuit bit. I wouldn't have gone in the hole to begin with lol
Nope, only ddr5
Guess that one guy isn't gonna list his parts for help. Didn't mean to cut him off figured he was putting list together
@iron dragon
System Builder - Intel Core i7-12700F, GeForce RTX 3060 Ti LHR, Cooler Master MasterBox TD500 Mesh w/ Controller ATX Mid Tower
i am so confused with the cpu cooler
@desert gulch @tardy knoll
I can't help I'm a noob. Just made sure you didn't feel overlooked
the artic cooler is causing me problems
Mr111 can help most likely.
hopefully
How so?
i dont know how to put it onto the mb
Liquid Freezer II
00:01 Liquid Freezer II 240/280 on AMD AM4
00:04 In the box
00:08 What you need
00:15 AMD AM4 installation
00:39 Liquid Freezer II 240/280 installation
01:38 Radiator installation
02:06 Outro
• Compatible with Intel & AMD Sockets
• Highly Efficient PWM Controlled Pump
• High Performance allows Overclocking
• Motherboard VRM ...
Aight so......about a year ago I built my dad's pc. Last week it crashed a few times but we didnt have time to look into it. Then after one of the crashes the motherboard couldnt see the ssd. I tried another ssd i had and it booted windows just fine. So i put a clean windows install on the ssd and got it going. Then after a few minutes in game the pc crashes again. No blue screen just crash. He checked the temperatures and they werent out of the safe zone. I havent got to check the ram yet
it wont fit
nothing for me to unscrew either
nevermind
but how do i screw it in
@fossil cedar no where for me to screw in
did you try watching the video
did you install the backplate on the motherboard
theres 2
maybe you should read the manual that will tell you which one is for intel and which one is for amd
its online
then google the manual
12600k is better than 11700k right ?

yes
Easily
yes
:bean:
Hey at least sticking w/ gen3 nvme isn't exactly bad in general use.
it's funny cause my impression of 10th gen vs 11th gen comes from my laptop
the backplate i think is to small
Oh so 11gen laptops actually a decent upgrade from a 10gen laptop?
my i7-10750H got 8000 cb and my i7-11800H got 15000 cb
both with liquid metal
same chassis (gp66 leopard)
same cooling
both undervolted
and the i7-11800H was cheaper
lol
I'm waiting for decent i5 laptop to get under $400ish again.

Alright thoughts about T-force SSDs 🤔

if one was to remove my stock cooler and put my new aio on when it comes in, how does removing it go? just unclamp the cooler and take off or do i have make the already applied thermal paste warm to actually take it off?
which stock cooler
intel
Looking for Cardea Z440 whixh is gen4 5000mbps
12700f
no need to warm it up because intel socket doesn't suck
needing to warm it up is an AMD thing
Just twist cooler a lil bit before pulling off. Twisting mods the suction.
if you somehow managed to pull an Intel CPU out of the closed socket you've probably shattered your motherboard into 400 pieces in the process
yes
sweet thanks y’all
12th gen still using push pins?
takes like 15 seconds to mount or unmount those push pin coolers
Once I pulled out amd cpu with cooler lmao
But you can't do it to intel
Intel socket securing cpu good into place
I mean you can use it if theres still push pin cooler for it 
you just gotta twist the cooler instead of pulling for AMD
but it's definitely a worse socket than intel
good thing am5 will be similar to intel sockets
Luckily it worked again lol
the stock cooler is still push pin I think
Yeah it is
fine usually meh priced tho
Its just 90$
90$ for 1tb?
Yup
I see any current amd cpu & just think of Intels Pentium 4. Cpu pins just feel so obsolete & old school.

I prefer breakable pins on the cheaper component
where you seeing this price?
Exactly. My cpu was $200+ & mobo only $150-175.
bro $90???0
buys a msi godlike
what a deal
insane deal only $1200
$90 good but tbh "real" gen4 get 6-7GB/s instead of 4-5.
ohh well if you need 16gb of ram its a decent drive sure but I would personally grab an mp34 instead
z690 godlike bad, x570 godlike good? 
Oh I think this one is better deal https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09V2X4GM6/ref=cm_sw_r_apan_i_R64NZPHPBNVZ7PP3WJ55
thats way wrose
3600cl18 xmp is just as good or worse as 3200c16 xmp
heatsink will be provided by mobo
Its 32gb rgb ram and 1tb gen4 7000mbps ssd 
3 hours later in SpongeBob voice. "Ok YouTube how do I hook car batteries to these weak ass UPS without voiding warranty"
that makes the drive 100ish$
Yup
not good for 100$ imo
It's basically only a deal if you need both parts. For ssd alone, I'd even take a P31 over that semi-no name team ssd
What about Sn770 
a320 godlike
I will use both parts but ofc can get separately tho

id personally go for https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Zxw7YJ/samsung-970-evo-plus-1-tb-m2-2280-nvme-solid-state-drive-mz-v7s1t0bam
Gen3 
But 3500mbps speed limit 
speed limit
yeah, but sequential doesn't really matter in the majority of use cases
not actual speed
and, that's also a limit
UP TO 3500mb/s
its like sata 3, up to 6gbps or something iirc
Isnt gen3 x4 port limited to like 3600mbps or something
1kb/ss is up to 3500mb/s
no sata drive ever gets anywhere close to that
uhhh idk the hard limit of the top of my head but unless youll only be moving large files rand is more important
only if you're moving large files constantly, too
if you do it once or twice that's not justified
the theoretical limit is 4 GB/s = 32 Gbps
but overhead prevents any drive from actually hitting that on gen 3
same with gen 4 at 8 GB/s
for basically all consumers rand speed is much more important
no drives do 8
as pato said already tho lol
Although most hdds only actually hit 4.5Gb/s (200ish MB/s), but no big deal
During long extended, war pig remember that a gen3 drive also would generally run much cooler than a gen4 drive, thermal throttle only occurs after 100+ seconds solid writing for most drives (aka 200+ GB)
I still would go for gen4 for extra few bucks

Rand > gen
you already asked about the sn770
Cheaper and same tier
Mp33 and a60 are also great value
Sn570 too
Prolly quite a bit more for a 1tb
Mp33 and a60 are hella cheap for a tb
If you wanted 2TB, S70 Blade is $220 on Amazon, just sayin. 
Yeah it's a good deal
10$ more than a60 for a better drive
I got my M470s for cheap at black Friday lol let me check current prices
Oof
Looks like I gonna end up with sn850 again lol
Just go s70 blade if you were going for sn850, basically same thing cheaper
And yes plug your cooler into CPU_fan
I think I gonna go for T force bundle . 32gb rgb ram + 1tb ssd for 190$ is looking alright to me . I just not sure about is those ssds are reliable or not
if it dont boot imma cry so hard
Is it modular ?
ikr
Ok people I just got the GOSPEL from our tech support company at work regarding back ups options.
First of all, the run time estimates under 0 load are not accurate.
Second of all, when comparing a regular ups to a pure sine ups, the pure sine is going to consume more battery life faster to produce pure sine wave versus square/stepped sine.
AND home class back ups frankly suck. They don't truly protect from surges... If a surge happens that exceeds the joule rating on that device then BOOM zero warranty coverage on all your devices. That's the fine print. He recommended a minimum of a 2800 joule rating. Which is stepping up to business class back ups and literally costs like 5-600$. ...
That's gravity in effect. Good
thanks chillin
very helpful
so the sagging is good?
OHHHH
i am so stupid
its not in the case ofc its gunna sag


LuL. Nah, but some sag is fine & expected. Remember the 2 screws in the back where monitor plugs in. I mean the 2 that hold gpu flat.
yes
ok so with the psu
i am so confused with it
He said only our server at the office has a business class back ups, aka smart ups... And then all the work PCs use home class back ups. I'ma roll with what I got
i need help with the psu
İts hard to miss lol most PSUs have lebelled cables
there are plenty of videos on this
go watch a video guide it will be much more helpful than people trying to explain this over text
Just be careful with cpu and gpu cables lol . Gpu is 6+2 while cpu is 4+4
Both 8pin tho
psu should also have a manual to tell you what you need to plug in
Its alright
it says pwr 2 for cpu
Its cpu
Pgu is 6+2
is that ok
If you connected 8pin its pretty enough
ok
Yep. Some warranties are better than others. I thought cyberpower would replace fried stuff, but idk. Indeed home UPS boxes aren't fantastic. It's a big money maker. Oh I looked up the smart ups. They big, possibly a better battery thus longer runtime. Indeed $500ish. "Cloud" based crap is part of what they're about.
Btw Eric for the cables, the solid 8pin end would be what goes into the psu while obviously the 4+4 or 6+2 goes to cpu/gpu. 👍. Mobo cable might have 2 ports on psu, it's labeled if so.
Gpu cable might be labeled vga or pcie. Sata is for hdd/ssd, perif is for fans or w/e.
pci yes
There should be 8pin cables which probably have 2 end tho
ssd i just put it into its slot
Connect gpu cables and only thing left is fans
Or controller if your case have one
Oh then its just gpu left
yes
If gpu has 2 ports on it, 2 separate cables if best. 👍
just one
One cable 2 end works fine with 3060 and 3060 ti tho . Idk about over it
mines 8 pin
but the pcie thing comes with a 6+2 pin
and i cant get the 2 to go in
should i try more or just try to boot
Finally made a decision on a case for the console i wanted to build. Will be able to build the Steam OS console build tomorrow. :D 11400 + RTX 3050 cause I'm too lazy to get amd stuff.
If you have more than 1 cable just try the other one. Take your time. Indeed the 6+2 ends can be awkward.
shouldn’t have to force it
wont go in tho
You sure the pinout matches?
yes
And can't really get cheaper than a 250$ 3050 these days tbh. Could use the 2060 i have but it's a Phoenix fan 🔥 you know?
it goes in by itself but not with the other one
Perhaps 2pin is twisted the wrong way. If the holes match it will go in next to the 6pin part.
You need to groud power on button pins on mobo
elaborate
Alright take your mobo manual and look for front panel pins
Look for Pins which power button of case should connect . And connect those 2pins with screwdriver or something thats it
Just have to connect it with metal lol
yes
Still nothing ?
si

I am now the UPS gatekeeper. Y'all got the PCs themselves lol
you need to look for the front panel pin section in mobo and correlate the two pins labeled as power switch to what you see on the mobo
then short those two
I got more info in 10 minutes from my work's tech support than I did in days of various discords.
might be labeled PWRSW or something
Not a good question but did you turned on power switch on psu ? 
yes lol
I had reconnected everything because I forgot to turn it on before lmao 
not that hard
not pins
please don't do that
like its stuck or sum'
i thought you was pulling out the front panel pins
no
Lmao
make sure you're pushing down on the little tab on the psu cables
ok
then pull
still nothing
it might take more force than you think to remove something like the 24 pin lol
it should require some force, but not so much you feel like you're ripping out your fingers
the latter is too much
Actually you can see if it's fit or not too
double check front panel pinout on your mobo manual
does it have to just be those 2
Theres several pins around it but you need exactly 2 one
Which is power switch button connection
so it cant touch any other pins?
No others are different things like reset switch, power led and hdd led
ok
should look similar to this
it will vary for your motherboard
so** don't** use this as your pinout reference
i found it
@jagged ember @ornate condor so i just have my gpu cpu and mb plugged in
am i missing sim?
you don't have a case yet right
if you're just testing your parts, that should be enough to get a boot if everything works
and is plugged in correctly
should be
okay, it is enough
but yk, cpu fans, sata plugs if you have hard drives, and other fans
not needed for a boot, but could plug them in for a test
wideus#
i am still having trouble
is there something broken?
@jagged ember
yes
How they're great is i figure someday a power outage will mess up something in my pc or cause some data failure. I'll get a UPS next month and/or as soon as they drop a few extra $$.
?
Sorry, meant to reply to someone. Eric, did psu come with a psu tester? Can also stick a paper clip into 2 specific pinholes of the 24pin cable to test it(then you'd switch it on). I forget which. That would be no other cables hooked up btw
i’ve been trying to unplug the mb power thing
i can’t do it
it’s in there good
yes
also 24 pin is stuck
wdym
no case yet
i think it might be the mb
i tested the gpu and it works
cpu should be fine
just took off the cooler to see the pins on it
looks good
24 pin always a struggle to get off
Keep in mind i don’t even have 24 pin so i am just copying what others say
😂
Keep in mind what I learned and shared earlier. The joule rating is probably one of the most important things after making sure it's big enough for your build.
Also, a Pure Sine Wave option will consume power a bit faster than a normal one. So comparing run times across simulated sine to pure sine is tricky.
It's not stuck. Just difficult to finagle loose. You can do it just find a good position to committ a little more to undoing it.
idk what to do rn
it’s not booting up and imma just keep the 24 pin in there for now
No dude. They're trying to get you to do an extremely simple test as it sounds like your PSU is no good and that's why nothing works
Doing the paperclip test was literally recommended to me by ABS on one of their prebuilts I'd just bought 2 months prior. They told a total beginner to do it. And I did. And it was in fact a bad PSU. It's really easy you just gotta committ to taking that plug out
Find a place to push back on the Mobo a bit if youre worrying about it flexing while pulling on the 24 pin
Could also try getting a small pick under the outer edges of plugs to get a little leverage on it. Once it unseats a little bit comes off easy
Perhaps get a small flathead screwdriver or similar and pry up alternating sides of that 24pin if you can. Beat by a second on that last part, lul.
so it’s a bad psi?
I'm so glad I had experience dealing with engine wiring harnesses
psu?
The paperclip test will CONFIRM such...
No one can tell you it's bad until you do that test. But that's what it sounds like.
i could try that it’s 900w
This does not sound safe
also another small problem
@iron dragon you're not getting any fans spinning or anything?
nothing
He asked if his PSU was bad.
And a paperclip test is literally the go to way to do it. Even ABS tech support told me to do that...
What is a paperclip test
i can’t find a paper clip
What's your cpu, motherboard and gpu?
Don't jump in claiming things aren't safe when you don't even know what it is. ..
Google bruh, it's a 25 yr old trick 🤣
Chill
You bridge the power and ground on the PSU and if fan comes on you know the PSU isnt the issue. If nothing happens it's bad
Ah
Take 24 pin off. Slots 3 & 4 or 4& 5 can be bridges for the test. 4 is power pin and 3 or 5 are both grounds.
If fan doesn't turn on*
Any piece of blendable metal/wire should work btw.
Yes sorry typo
If you bridge the PSU ground and power pins and nothing happens. Bad PSU. And being you've tested so much else that's likely the cause.
You can also disconnect everything from the PSU if worried about bridge test. But abs even told me to just unplug 24 pin and do it. In that case other stuff would power on too if the PSU was good. If nothing happens it's bad.
Perhsps this helps: https://gpushack.com/blogs/news/43997828-psu-paper-clip-test
This test will verify that your PSU is working outside of your system. If the PSU powers on, the issue you experience may be related to your system and/or configuration. Please use a known working power outlet for this test (you can test to make sure the outlet works, with a small lamp or similar item). Since some PSU cables are all-black, it is...
3 is also a ground. Depends on who ya ask. Some say do 3&4. Some say 4&5. I did both just to be extra sure.
True, sometimes more complex/detail is just confusion
like what
could i strip a wire would that work?
Paperclip, a small section of old wire
Yep
ok
Yes if it's solid wire. Not like frayed bundle of thin wires.
No cable wires or anything. Solid piece of copper. Nothing crazy, think paperclip thickness at most
YouTube it if needed. Paperclip test for PSUs
It's stupid common.
This is a very common test in automotive field too. If I want to check if a relay is bad, or a fuse that I can't see is visibly blown....jumper wire that thang and get an answer
shucks
I won't lie it sketched me out at first too but once I understood what I was being told to do it made sense.
Even ABS tech support told me to do it and if there was potential for me to screw stuff up they wouldn't do such a thing. As the PC is under full warranty still.
You live with parents?
yes
As they surely got some papers or something somewhere could steal a paperclip from. Or just ask em
We were talking about purely scrap wires to make a jumper ... Not stripping wires off his PC. First off you'd have to take wires out of plug sockets and that defeats the purpose of the test..
idk if that could work or not
It's actually better to use a nice jumper wire over a paperclip. But clip works fine.
What i7 and what motherboard
scroll up a pc list is in here
Ahh that's okay then
It sounds like per the tests others already walked him thru he needs to test his psu
Eric didn't you say you have a second psu you know is good? If you can't do clip test then swap them out? If it's appropriate size ratings for your build that is
@iron dragon just to double check.... You have the display cable connected to the graphics card when trying to turn it on?
hdmi yes
If your parents can't find you a paperclip or something similar I'll be shocked lol.
Have you tried a different cable/checked that cable is working on a different device/checked a different port
would a mouse trap thing work?
Would that even matter in some cases? Sounds like it's totally dead
gpu works btw
Definitely
i tested it
If the wire is near same thickness of a paperclip, and you can take a small section and bend it into a U shape then sure.
If it's not detecting gpu it will not post
yea nothing
But if the PSU was bad it wouldn't tell us anything. I'd think he should verify that before cables if the whole PC won't power on?
You know more than I though just asking.
Okay wait, have you tried shorting power pins manually with a screwdriver just incase the case's button is broken?
No he can't get the 24 pin plug out. Hesitant to committ to it.
Oh you mean some other way
The power pins aren't on the 24 pin
They're on the motherboard
There is a power and ground pin in the 24 pin plug.
Yes but that's different
Yes I just misread what you were asking if he'd done at first.
That clip test is such a simple test and rules out a big potential cause. I'd personally start there but I've only dealt with a bad PSU thus far lol so I'm a tad biased I guess
when i did it my monitor turned on but said no signal
Did what?
Fans spinning?
Pato can help I'm sure just need more details
nope
plugged in hdmi into gpu monitor turned on but showed nothing
Is the monitor even something to go off here? I thought you'd said the PC wasn't cutting on at all.
Okay, go to your front panel header, should be bottom right of the motherboard.... Find the pwr pins and short them with a screwdriver or something
I'd say the monitor saying no signal was a coincidence
I'd think so. Coulda been powered on and bumped off sleep just to say no signal idk
He's gonna need far more details than that. I would lol.
Like visual representation type stuff.
Sounds exactly like starting an old car by wedging a screwdriver in between the starter's terminals hehe
ok wait
He's talking about something you can do without undoing the 24 pin
Nope not there
It should say like frnt panel or something
jusb2?
Do you know specific Mobo you have? The manual will have a diagram and he can circle what you need to find
pro b660-a
What brand? Asus? Sorry I'm a noob overall but I can least pull the manual up for you
also the other psu is 600 it was just upside down
They come upside down so the fan can pull air thru bottom of case to cool psu
So he needs to look on the corners of his Mobo, for some pins with the label "Jfp1" next to it correct?
I c
@iron dragon here's what you needed to find.
Now you'll need them to tell you what two pins to touch with a screwdriver
Jynx
Haha
My circle better ☺️
Lmao jk jk
What's he need to do next? And is there anything he needs to not have hooked up while doing this test?
Unless it's like 15 seconds or you have nitro uploading vids can be a pain
Idk, depends on the test. Pato or Rommy will know. Probably pulling you a pic of what pins to hit or something
?
nothing
Does anyone know a way to reduce power draw of a processor without changing the code voltage?
@iron dragon can you get a better pic really close up of the JFP1 plug and then could show you exactly what pins?
ik what pins
Oh ok
the ones above the no pin one
still nothing
is there another way to test the psu
?
The paperclip test after unplugging 24 pin
And that was only testing the case's power button what you just did
I think
it didn’t work
What didn't work?
Yes undo the 24 pin plug..
Have you tried a small flat head to ease the plug off?
Yall thing PC plugs are hard.... Try the same thing but put them under the hood of a car that the engine gets few hundred degrees hot.... And all the plastic plugs become brittle as heck..
lmao
I know this lol... I was just giving reassurances that it could be far worse.
I was sketched first time undoing my 24 pin.
You have it out of the case too.
Depends on the car and the work lol.
ok now what’s the paper clip test
yeah it depends on the car really
just an oil change is doable
and the basic maintenance
but let's get back to pc
With the plug clip facing you, the 4th and 5th plugs on bottom row from the right corner in. Bridge with the paper clip, or some thin piece of metal.
the 24 pin is so difficult to pull
Why does my 12900KS pull more watts than my 12900K at the same override voltage and clocks?
what could it be then
Probably could be a few things
Maybe it's VRM being inefficient
maybe it's LLC things
could be bad voltage regulation for some reason
Measurements not precise enough
was talking about the 12900ks vs 12900k thing
What PSU? Assuming you did paperclip test and no fan spin
AX1600I
I heard 13900k will have 5.8ghz speed lol
Yayyyy I ended up getting my cake and ice cream both this time around. Got pure sine wave and have almost double the estimated run time while under a small load... Estimates under no load are clearly not accurate lol
Could also be leakage. It's the same CPU just binned really.
no load estimate is like saying how much HP a car makes at idle, which isn't much. 
It's just wierd they even try to give one.
My APC 1000va/600w said 312 minutes lol
And the new cyber power sine 1500va/1000w said 190
Under about 100w load it's one hour roughly for the cyber power and about 30-40min for the apc
yes psu works paper clip test worked
So fan did spin
Clear cmos yet?
though ig ram is unlikely
itd most likely be a diff issue if ram
cant hurt to reseat it though
reseating is fun
I'm just observing and learning. And trying to help if I can simply how things are communicated lol. The way some stuff was said to me earlier on was like HUH
ember which b660 did they have?
Can't remember other than pro
?

