#building-and-recc-chat
1 messages · Page 1290 of 1
Why not try anyways?
Try what?
Try to contact support
And what will they do? Make me mail it in and wait 8 months?
Could try a new PSU, but simplest option is probably to just ask them what they could do, maybe they'll ship you a replacement PSU, maybe they'll ship you a replacement system, who knows
It made audible grinding noises.
That sounded like way more than the PSU like the whole damn thing blew up or something.
I flipped breaker, turned UPS back on, hit the power button on PC and made a god awful grinding noise and didn't do anything. Now it's totally DOA no noises
Again contact support or test it with a new PSU
I'd imagine they're done for the day unless it's 24/7...
Couldn't even get thru episode one of the new Halo series...
Definitely don't have another PSU nor the first clue on how to install one myself
Support will respond as soon as they can and installing a new PSU isn't hard as most PSU has each cable labeled
As well as we are willing to help guide you through the process if needed
What section do you even contact there's only an option to check order status, or to do a return. Or other totally unrelated options. Pretty sure I'm on a endless hold at this point
Newegg is just pushing it onto ABS.
Hasn't even been 2 months lol that's horrible luck...
Wowww wth...they transferred me to ABS and said just leave a message they'll call back in the morning... It says "leave a message after the tone" and then immediately hung up on me
Lol that's reassuring.
Probably don't want to call them at this time, website support might be better suited for this kinda thing
The Newegg support guy said it's on ABS to walk me thru troubleshooting
I was nice and polite so it wasn't anything on my end idk
It's true that ABS would be better suited for support, Newegg support isn't really specialized, they're just random customer support people
Thought ABS had a contact on the website though
At least a email or smth
I have a number. But the Newegg guy just transferred me and said I'd likely have to leave a message this late. Which he did and I got to that point then it just hung up lol
Trying to call again but they close in 15 min so probably aren't gonna answer
I was able to leave a message that time..
Someone told me they think the breaker put PSU in some kind of safety mode. And thinking the backups I'm using just didn't work idk?
Sounds like a crappy ups to me
The bigger question should also be on why the breaker even tripped
A whole house losing power is one thing, but one circuit losing power is another
Doesn’t Newegg support just tell people to come here?
Sometimes
If it's an issue that we can fix
But a dead PC is not one of them
That’s a shame
Ig grinding noise is probably fault of psu
Yeah
I wonder which ups it was
if the UPS didn't work, the PSU would've shut itself off somehow, tripping a protection
Tripping a breaker is also a huge concern
It usually takes a lot of power to trip those
Typically a 15/20amp is common depending on the circuit you're in
So like 1600-2100 watt hours to trip?
Assuming its never been tripped before, since those breakers are only highly accurate on the first trip
It's not actually a big surprise breakers wear out or fail eventually, at least if they've been tripped a few times. Could be a bunch of stuff plus a hair dryer or vac was running, who knows
Reason: Bad word usage
Idk, does the ups even still work?
Rma UPS and/or psu. Fail is a fail, and it wasn't* user error imo.
As I have no clue. The backups worked perfectly fine at the office so I don't see how it would suddenly fail, trip a breaker and fry the PC.... Seems more like the PSU went beserk and tripped the breaker... The backups protects from things coming from the house's power...but not going the other direction
Ofc yeah
Then it's not the backups fault. Sounds irrelevant to the issue
Still could be
If it started feeding the PSU really crappy power, like way out of cycle or voltage, it could cause the PSU to fail past a point
Well Ive not done anything outside the normal usage for a PC. Got 2 monitors, and the PC that's literally it. Been using it with no issues since I got it. Was just watching TV on Amazon prime and whatever happened, happened in the 10 minutes I was upstairs getting food.
We do have some storms going on but the whole house wasn't effected. Unless it was a instant flicker, which did something to pop the breaker downstairs 🤷
It's a backups 600. What they used at work for their i7 pro systems for engineering
Idk the power draw rating. I was just trying to protect the PC from lightning LMAO I don't even care about the battery part
I'd be leaning towards ups being overloaded on power draw, but the fact you weren't gaming or something means it shouldn't fail right then
send link
I also had the show I was watching paused
Yeah
NgL I hate ups ratings in VA. It's watt rating is 450ish. Batteries don't last forever either. Run time would be 10-30min. Ups batteries are so tiny compared to a car battery. 
I've also tried just plugging into the wall, and it's still dead. So whatever did go wrong hurt the PC badly. I left power supply unplugged for a few hoping maybe there was some memory stored for a safety mode or something that would clear itself but nope
Could always paperclip test the PSU, but I'd just go towards Newegg/abs rma first before messing with it
And I have played big mmos etc with no issues..I've had both monitors on running games and music and programs etc etc.
I had one monitor on watching Amazon this time that's it.
Yes I'm just trying to keep my composure for the night.
I already let that partially broken plastic lawn chair out front feel my wrath lol. Damn thing exploded into like 100 pieces. It was surprisingly relieving. Literally exploded when I threw it into the brick wall
I'm not doing crap to it. I don't want to be liable I want the warranty.
Also broke a few flower pots. I almost trashed my whole garden I was so mad
Yeah I agree with you on not screwing with it
Hitting the power button seemed to do enough damage all on its own. That noise was horrendous... I hate to say it but I'm leaning towards the motherboard being fried by the PSU like someone mentioned being possible...
Had a laptop motherboard fry many many years ago and it just sounds familiar idk
That's my theory, I think the PSU grenaded my PC...
Yeah who knows tbh
Idk but it sucks...
Yeah
I've been waiting over 10 years for a new desktop gaming PC an made it two months. I work and come home that was my one thing to enjoy myself.
I think the weirdest part about building my PC is how a random bag of non-tech related screws and a screwdriver which came with my offbrand monitor's desk stand were the only tools I needed to put it together
I hope so... I'm worried about this warranty claim being that it's totally dead and can't really diagnose anything.
I'd assume they expect you to ship the PC back before sending a warranty replacement?
yeah
probably
Have any of y'all dealt with ABS warranty stuff before?
What happens if I mail the PC back, and they refuse to send me a replacement? Am I gonna be out the broken PC too? If so I'd be better off taking it to the tech support company who runs our engineering firm's server etc. They've built all the work PCs themselves.
As much as it would tick me off to pay to have it fixed after only 2 months, I'd rather do that than be without a PC for 6 months dealing with people over the phone...
Trying to just forget about it for tonight and going to call ABS first thing when they're open tomorrow
ABS is Newegg's house brand, it's highly unlikely they'll refuse service without very good reason (or go out of business suddenly and take your money)
It also tends to be one of the better brands for "budget" gaming rigs.
I've also seen plenty of cases where if you've done troubleshooting already and you need a part replaced, you don't need to send the whole PC
In short, they're not artesian builds
Boutta buy an abs PC and say the "GPU dies randomly"
Infinite money glitch?
You still need to send in broken parts
Oh I'll send in broken parts
Dw about that
I'll just ship a gpu back via fedex
They won't even know what gpu it started as after Kenzie is done
Ship back an old gt card and heatsink
Infinite money glitch
With the ENIAC builder assembly, do they attach the fans in the accessories section?
What do you mean exactly?
So I added fans to the accessories tab in the PC builder, so when I buy it, do they put the extra fans on?
Ye
ok
I just ordered another 360mm radiator for my build 54mm thick
w
Idk how they'll troubleshoot it with it completely dead
can someone tell me a gaming pc under 500 USD?
Get a build with integrated graphics on the CPU and don’t get a graphics card
not really
only option is igpu, and that wont run games as well as i think youd want them to
750 is doable, albeit tight
Jayztwo cents just did a super cheap build for around 950
But you will be lucky to find anything with a graphics card for around $500 in the current market
allt he psus i normally use are overpriced now
pain
pato any b tiers i should look at?
Well they're not in the US so doesn't matter but hp have a 1650 super pc for 540 if they did, upgrade down the line to another 8gb stick snd boom like 570
For?
well theyre not in the us so i guess it doesnt matter
hi
Hey so are the wifi cards and Bluetooth on the same card?
Most are
I’d look up the model number and just check if any sources online can confirm
Anything with like Intel AX200 should have both bt and wifi
Okay thanks
Is it possible to have too many ARGB devices plugged in? With everything in, some of the lights don't keep their color correctly.
With everything slotted, I get my Li Lian kit flickering odd white colors. When I unplug anything that isn't that, it changes to the correct color.
So ABS customer support called me back... They told me they'd send me out a new PSU but suggested I do paperclip test first. Which I have no idea what that is
I mean I get the purpose of it but no clue how to do it. The guy explained it and I was like uhhhh, yea I'll probably have to YouTube that. Or that I'll just send the PC to my tech support service at work
https://images.app.goo.gl/se72XrAk3vFK7hoe7
Switch off power supply from the back
Put paperclip as shown
Switch power supply on
Does the fan spin?
Does the fan spin after I've done that?
Or as it sits now?
Does the fan spin after you flip on the power supply with the paperclip jumper?
If yes it's not totally dead
That's the one next to the memory on the right side of the board, it's big you can't miss it
Ok
A video said something about unplugging all peripherals after unplugging PSU from motherboard. Before test? What are peripherals? Like the monitors?
Yes, they probably also mean hard drives, the GPU, and CPU cables
That's an optional step technically
I mean, could something go wrong if I don't?
ABS didn't tell me to
So, send it? Lol
I'm low key shocked their response was to whip out a paperclip...well, actually they were ready to just send a PSU out but then asked if I'd tested ir
In theory yes something could short, but I've never seen it happen and it's highly unlikely
Someone last night was saying a PSU going bad could have ruined my motherboard and gpu
With my experience level handling PC parts probably best I touch as little as possible till I know more
That could only possibly happen if the power supply was in the E or F tier, the "replace immediately, may explode" tiers
Oof lol
Well whatever happened was bad enough to trip the breaker and knocked out the power for the whole room basically
Sometimes a sudden surge can damage other parts if the protections are bad but again that's rare
Trip a house breaker I mean. I thought I'd lost power to the house but was like looking into two diff rooms at once, one lit and one dark like what in the actual F is going on
Hmm, what model is that? You can take a picture of the power supply label
I was watching Halos new TV show, only one of two monitors on. No other programs or games going. Paused it and walked away to make dinner and came back to darkness. When I tried to power back on got this loud grinding sound but very brief.
Someone said electricity popping in the capacitors of PSU and that actually sounds like what it was
Um one sec. The PSU is like hidden in case covers
Based on that info the paperclip test is a moot point anyway, sounds pretty dead
Worth atleast verifying I guess.
So pull this and do the 3 and 4 sockets from the appropriate side in and try to turn on.
If nothing happens it's dead
Probably a tier C, not terrible at least
Correct
Jeez so can I push back on motherboard a bit to keep it from flexing or anything while trying to get plug free?
I used to be a mechanic and also build custom boats etc. Tech stuff is a totally new ball game
Yeah you can hold the motherboard for support
Got it
I really don't like whoever wired this thing
All the coords are pulled so freaking tight it's insane to me.. and the plug coming from over top the GPU instead of under is just dumb. I'm not even a builder and I know most would go under.
They bent the heck outta that GPU plug to go that route
They used the pigtail instead if the main!
It's copper wire, doesn't hurt to bend it
Id beg to differ, it's ok bent and left there. But the day someone unbends it the integrity of that wire just plummeted and may have a internal break one day and be chasing your tail looking for issue. Experienced that one time wiring up a car audio system. Older guy came out and went around grabbing wire and bunching it up, then all the sudden he squeezed a section and everything cut on. We cut the bad section out and was good to go
Oh? I thought the other wire they tucked back was for a second GPU??
Wiring bent is fine. It's just front the looks of things, whoever built this system was slapping it together without a second thought to placement.
Going above or below is just preferences in the case used. What bothers me is that the pigtail was used instead of the main.
No. That is the main plug. The pigtail is for gpus that have more than one pcie power connection if your power supply is non modular.
Ok so are you saying this plug up here is the main and the one in use is meant to go to a second GPU? As that makes sense I see how the plug they used comes off the other plug
Sorry I'm confused
This is super attractive lol. I reckon didn't have much other options
Example of dual pcie power connections on the same card.
And you're saying on mine they used the pigtail instead of the main? Right?
Correct
So I need to swap that?
I always recommend not using the pigtail if it's not necessary
I mean it makes sense to me looking how the wires run. The plug that's zip tied back and is the first one in line, then the one plugged in is the pigtail. Makes sense to me that's it's wrong just off that
They shouldn't even have the pigtails anymore, with all the high power GPUs. A single 8 pin cable can handle 150W, and on a cheap unit it probably won't handle more than that. So it would be easy to overheat and melt the cable if you put 300W through by using both 8 pins.
Ok lemme do this clip test. Gotta find a paperclip first lol
Exactly
tbh doesn't really matter if you're only using one connector, but we'll probably see daisychained pcie connectors disappear with the next standard
Oh good gravy... paperclip... did they not give you the power supply accessory box or anything? Most modern PSUs come with a jumper bridge.
I mean, looks like a TT smart bronze, not exactly a great unit anyways
Yeah, the 12+4 pin that can do between 150W and 600W depending on power supply
It's a gold
They're already doing away with most of them, but they offer them for lower end and budget systems due to the lower gpu power draw that are used with them.
huh, the badge looked brown
@stoic island
Yea, tt smart gold
Um, no I don't think so? ABS guy even said paperclip test. I got a few things with the PC what would a jumper look like?
You talking about the PSU?
It literally looks like a reverse of the 24pin connector
Paperclips are fine, you could even use a short piece of wire
You can. I just hate doing it.
Cheap units don't include that
Most likely you didn't get one, it doesn't really matter what you use, just something that can jump 2 pins
Could it be in there right side up or did they have to put PSU upside down lol? Bugs me the label is upside down
Undoes pants doesn't matter you say?
Fan typically is at the 'top' and therefore in this position would be able to get fresh air
lmao
Typically you'll want the fan facing down if there's a hole for air
Looking from the back, the label is always upside down. The front is right side up.
That way if your case has no bottom port and you do fan up, the label still faces up on the outside.
Oh out the bottom of the case?
Fan is not typically at the top. It's at the bottom for fresh filtered air in most modern cases.
And that case has a bottom port
You can see the openings where the fan is facing
Oh wow I wish I knew there was a fan underneath the case it's a bit dusty. I've been religiously making sure no dust accumulates anywhere and had no idea that was there. Good thing I haven't had it long
It has that soft mesh cloth over it and that stuff could clog easily.
Yea I see it's removable, good to know
As much as I hate the fact I'm already having issues with this PC being so new, it is cool I'm being forced to tinker with it and learn
I wonder if abs would work with me on putting a better PSU in if that one's not that great. Like I could pay a small price difference between replacement cost and a better onr
Bose let me do that with a warranty replacement on some earbuds one time then ended up just upgrading me for free
You can always ask
Fo sho
Watch channels like Paul's Hardware, BPS Customs, Bitwit, JayzTwoCents, and Greg Salazar on YouTube. They have a ton of beginner maintenance tips, minor upgrade tutorials, beginner build episodes, and more to help you through it all.
You attract more bees with sugar than salt lol
I think the fact I called and just left a polite message last night and didn't blow them up today and waited for a call back already set things off in my favor. The rep was super cool I'm happy the customer service is good. And speaks clear English mainly
Vid I watched said the 3rd and 4th pins youre in the 4th and 5th?
And with the plug clip facing towards me
As a professional builder myself, back in the day, I inhaled those types of videos (the old ncix days) to get better at what I do.
I watch Jay-Z stuff but it's mostly just slapping stuff together seems like. I'd like to have a true in depth understand of the parts I'm working with
In robeytech discord too
That jumper is one provided directly from the manufacturer, so it is correct.
The photo is?
You're just jumping the On pin with a ground pin, so you can do either 16+15 or 16+17
Either way does the same thing
But all the other info I've seen said 3rd and 4th slots now you're saying it's 4th and 5th. Oof scaring me. Glad I didn't do anything yet
16 and 17 are most common
Oh ok because more than one can serve as a ground
Either way you're touching the power on and ground together
So 16 never changes
ye
Stick on the same side
Oh I am, this is for learning purposes.
I used to just use a screwdriver tip
As I said I like to truly understand things when I decide I want to learn. I won't be just putting PCs together.. like the equivalent of a car mechanic who just knows how to change parts but no real diagnostic work etc. They just throw parts at it
Right
If you just wanna know how to change your oil and tires on your own, learning how from the start is always best
I wanna know it ALL. To where I even understand how the components are made start to finish. All of it. Like if I had the appropriate tools could make PC parts type knowledge. That's kinda where I am with cars. Definitely boats I could build you a custom boat from scratch
Then pull up build tutorials and watch a lot of GamersNexus videos 😆
I mean, technically, yea, but that's annoying to do
Anyhow for now, let's do thee test I've been putting off an hour now lol..
You'll see that things get too deep :(
Building PCs is one thing, learning about manufacturing and how everything works, too much work
Oh of course I just mean to an extent.
Someone who really knows what's going on basically. Can diagnose and repair etc. Even like repair soldering stuff etc like I've seen some doing
This series is pretty fun on manufacturing though, even though it says 8 steps, there's 9 parts :P
https://news.samsung.com/global/eight-major-steps-to-semiconductor-fabrication-part-9-packaging-and-package-testing
Ok so plug facing towards me. Put clip in and flip power switch. Then try to hit power button on PC. Or should it come on soon as there's power to the PC
Don't do anything with PC
I would have the PSU on first
the point is to put paperclip in to tell it to turn on, independent of PC parts, and fans should spin up
smart shouldn't have any 0 fan speed modes
Oh ok, so it should come on with I flip the PSU power switch
I'd prob flip the PSU switch first then stick in the paperclip
I know this sounds stupid.. but does the 0 on the switch means open circuit and the straight up and down dash like I means closed circuit and has power?
Or am I overthinking those markings lol. Doesn't just say on /off
Possibly, but I don't really know what the markings are actually for
Just using it is good enough for me :p
Ok so as soon as I stick clip in fans come on (if it's working not broke)
Yes
I'd assume these mean open circuit which is off for the O one , and closed circuit is the other meaning on
If not then I may be totally backwards lol.
Well per the video I watched I am right about which positions are on off so I'd wager that's open and closed circuit symbols.
Ok absolutely nothing happens
So that means bad psu I guess
It is plugged in, right?
Yea
sad
I mean, that's better than it working and that meaning the MB is bad right?
oof, your ABS prebuilt having problems?
Maybe
Yes it died last night. It knocked the power out in just my room too whatever happened so it wasn't like from the house itself. If it was I'd have had surge protection. I think PSU shorted out and went other direction thru the surge protector and tripped a house breaker
What do you mean? Am I missing something here? I thought if paperclip test did nothing then it just means PSU is bad, which ABS is ready to send a replacement when I call them bsck
ketchup and mustard cables are usually not a good sign
It's a tt smart gold
It's enough to tell them you tested it and it's not working
Ngl I'm still tempted to blame the ups
been hearing a lot of problems with ABS lately, wonder if it's because we recommend them here more or because they actually have higher failure rates
We prob aren't making that much of an impact, maybe GN had more of an impact
i need to step it up and start shipping my prebuilts 😔
Lol
So, you think it could also potentially be not working and have also fried other parts when it shorted/or whatever the heck it did?
possible, good psus are designed to save the rest of the pc when they die
but who knows if this psu had proper protections
No way to really know
It's a tt smart gold, wouldn't put too much trust in the protections, but it shouldn't damage anything on its own
@earnest olive when I tried to power it back on after resetting breaker etc it just made a loud grinding type noise, kinda like a electricity crackle maybe idk. And it just did nothing. I hit power button again, made the noise. And then absolutely nothing after that. The noise almost sounded like something jammed kinda
random failures can happen with any product
jesus that's scary
hope the 3060ti survived lol
No noises or anything from there forward.
Yea I'm worried some bad things went down when it first tripped the breaker.
Jeez I didn't notice the mesh in here too getting dusty. This thing must pull a crap ton of air thru it lol. Is this easy to get to and clean like the bottom filter is?
Looks like there's a filter/mesh behind this panel
How often do y'all routinely clean your PCs?
used to be every 2 days
when i didn't have an air purifier in my room and my cat would hang out in it
was mostly just grabbing cat hairs off of the dust filters though, no compressed air
compressed air was like once a month
now i have an electric air duster and an air purifier, so i do dust filter cleaning like once a month, and "compressed air" for fun whenever i feel like it
ABS is saying they'll replace the PSU.
Or if I wanted to get a better way they could refund me the cost of the PSU and I could buy a better one? I guess I'ma just go with the replacement for now being that I don't know if PC has any other issues. I'd had to buy a better PSU and PC still not work
how much are they offering as a refund?
is that a thermaltake smart gold or just a regular thermaltake smart?
Gold I think?
https://www.newegg.com/bitfenix-formula-gold-series-bp-fm750ulag-7r-750w/p/N82E16817376012 either way, grab this one for $85, so much better
take a pic of the whole sticker
It's 80 plus gold
He said only 89$
I'ma just do the replacement screw it.
I don't wanna make it more complicated if a new PSU doesn't fix the problem
As then I'll be out the difference I spent while having to get a whole new replacement PC thru warranty
I'll be stuck with that PSU since theyd refunded the one I got with prebuilt.
i'd still go for the better psu unless it voids your warranty
I was literally on the phone with abs while talking to you
I panicked
It got too complicated sounding when I asked what happens if I take the refund on PSU, buy a better one and the problem isn't fixed and he said then they'll be looking at warranty replacement or repair, or possibly a refund if the build is out of stock which it is. And he said I'd be refunded everything but the PSU I was already refunded.
And it just got complicated sounding thinking about a replacement PC. If it came down to getting a replacement they gonna send me everything but the PSU if I take the refund on PSU now?
The guy didn't speak good English and could hardly understand him so I just went with replacement
Wish I'd known a refund for just that part was an option before hand then I could have thought about it more. He told me it was an option then came to chat with him on speaker phone and you were like do it
People in the robeytech discord saying I can get a way better PSU for 90$
well yeah i also told you the exact same thing
Yea I just meant that as like they said same thing as you
So it just made me stress over it more lol
Said screw it, not worth the stress over 100$. I was fine with what I had up until this event
you really didn't have to make a decision then...
you could have just told them you'd call back
and make the decision tomorrow
Idk, better to take the $100 for a good psu we would be happy with.
What's done is done now anyway. No point continuing to stress over it.
should I buy a 12600k even though I don't know how to overclock?
f preferably if you don’t plan on it
12600k is a great cpu even if you dont plan to oc it
its the lowest cpu in the lineup that has e cores
and isnt far behind the 12700
And just remember, for some reason, not only does 12600k have OCing compared to 12600, the 12600 doesn't get the e cores, I don't know why, but it just doesn't, giving you more of a reason to get 12600k
12500 or 12600 shouldnt exist
12700F is also close to $300, so I'd actually suggest that unless you're spending $250 or less on the others. 12400(F) would also be a great gaming choice.
Intel segmentation: it just works
More items to sell = more money, and especially more profit when the P-core only 12500/12600 models are priced quite a bit more than the 12400. I'd like to see a 8-Pcore only 12700(F), but we didn't get that one. oh well.
@terse tiger specs? which speakers are those? NICE setup. I dig that mouse pad that looks sort of like Marble or something. 
well it'd be stupid for anything higher than 12600k to not have e cores
Not exactly. Really small benefit in (most) games. Although, Intel decided to be done w/ 8core stuff, so far.
can anybody build me a pc build im going with AMD and my buget is 1,200
why amd
Are 10th gen X-series still worth it if you have an LGA2066 socket gaming mobo that you never got full use out of due to the original processor you got for it crapping out?
12th gen is better price/perf than 5000 series
afaik no
can someone just help me please
Yeah intel just currently has better value for performance
sure
I’m making a list rn
U gonna build it yourself? or have a service build it for you like newegg
Also nice i’m also c1 d1 in rocket league
This is what I'd do
3060ti/3070 works too if you can find one for a decent price
Thats too bad. Was an expensive motherboard. A 10th gen x series would be better than what I currently have, but if it were more worth it to get a current motherboard and processor, I dont wanna drop the money for it.
Yeah that’s pretty much what i would pick as well + just fits in the budget
3060ti kinda rare in my eyes i haven’t seen any in stock for a good price (under $600)
I've seen the ventus 2x in stock fairly often for 570
But terrible model
I just mean from evga or best buy mostly
Why X series tho? instead of like 10900k
Because the ACK m7 can only socket the x series i believe?
Sorry, my conversation is a different t topic from yours, didn't mean to confuse it
You said lga2066 tho
Yes,
Oh are there non X series that fit the 2066 sicket?
Wait, maybe im remembering wrong. let me look up some compatible CPUs
I honestly think selling the board would be more worth it then dropping $500+ on a CPU
10900X is $560
are you taking to me?
Exactly why I was asking here about it lol.
Er, not the selling the board part, the cost part
Primarily gaming
@little osprey can you build me one. intel, buget 1,200
Sure
the X series isn’t worth it for gaming, because it’s not made for gaming. let’s put it that way
the x and xe intel series cpus are meant for like workstations i’m pretty sure
notch i’m working on a list
@little osprey im going to be gaming but ik your not taking to me rn, im just letting you know
Ye don’t lose bro
Then why the hell did they make a gaming mobo that only uses that cpu?
oops wrong channel
it's a marketing term
X series cpus are capable of gaming but they are far from the best option
I know you probably don’t want to do/hear this but i would sell the motherboard and buy something like the 12600k and a z690 instead
an i5-12400 will beat an i9-10980XE in practically every game
It’s just better optimized for what you’re doing
the x/xe series just aren’t meant to be used for games
9900K will beat any X series processor in gaming
just keep the 9900K and try to sell your board
getting more specific about why the X series isn't as good in gaming
the mainstream CPUs like your 9900K connect the cores with an interconnect known as a ringbus
@little osprey just send the build in this chat when you make it
this ringbus solution is fantastic for low latency
but it doesn't scale well when stretched beyond 10 cores
the X series processors use a different type of core interconnect called a mesh
it allows for higher core counts than ringbus does, which is pretty much the point of X series processors, but you take a latency hit as a tradeoff
gaming cares far more about latency than it does about core count (above 6-8 anyways)
Do you care about having RGB stuff
no
Thanks, this is great info for me. I'm decent at PC building, but my technical knowledge is lacking
when i have an external keyboard hooked up to my laptop so the built in keyboard is literally just an rgb strip

@earnest olive lmao
anyways, try to sell the X series board, a lot of cheap X series engineering samples are showing up on ebay that some people are interested in for budget HEDT
r/hardwareswap and facebook marketplace are good options to sell without paying high ebay fees
are you on 1080p, 1440p, or 4k?
Sounds like I'm good to go with my current board and cpu for awhile though. Still need to upgrade my 1080ti
monitor?
Yeah
Reason: Bad word usage
ummm idk
Honestly you could probably buy another pc, then sell the one you have now
Do you have a model number? or in rocket league go to video settings and send a screenshot of the available in game resolutions
Yes
you mean a 12900k i assume
When I do a new build I like keeping my current as a backup, and pass down replaced parts to it
@little osprey does it matter
I will sell the mobile though, since it turns out I don't need that one. Might be getting time to do a new ground up build, though. Even if just for funsies
Yes it’s a deciding factor for what specific parts to get
oh ok
Do you have any parts you’re gonna move to the new build?
nope just a hole new build
ok thanks
if one was to get a 12700k to overclock, as well as get an overclocked gpu from factory, what psu should i grab? have a 750w plat in the pcpp list rn but thought i’d ask if it needs to be more/less
platinum rating says nothing about quality of the unit and it depends on what gpu u wanna get
That depends on what GPU model. Something like a RTX 3070 ti would be very happy on 750W, or even a lower end 3080. If you get a higher power limit 3080 or higher you'll probably want a 850W.
3070 Asus KO V2 Oc model. but figure i’m just gonna go with a 12400f as i don’t really wanna oc - was just a thought i had in my head and thought i’d ask about it
^
yeah 750W enough
what psu u got?
just share the pcpp list if u can
3070 is quite happy with 750W, and you can still get the 12600k if you want the e-cores and plan to use windows 11.
Even if you end up using it on a locked mobo like a B660 or H670 those extra cores are kinda nice.
yeah i will but i really don’t wanna hear any judgement on this thing - all i’ve heard today is people say that i should go cheap on everything else but the gpu and blow 1300+ on that. i’m happy with the pricing that i got on here and i really don’t wanna hear anything unless it’s constructive criticism please lol
i’ll link pcpp list tell me what u think
We're typically pretty good about giving helpful suggestions and reasons for each
Unlike other communities that shall remain unnamed
cough cough reddit buildapc cough
Reason: Bad word usage
I can see your comment in the logs, yeah reddit gets toxic fast
just don’t understand it man. constructive criticism goes so far, but no one cares. it’s always a “nope, go with x part instead of y part” with no explanation
brutal
A few things to note then,
A 360mm AIO is total overkill for that CPU. Also that particular one is rather loud, I know from experience, and the fans will die after 2 years if they're top mounted.
Is there a particular feature you want in the Aorus Master board? That's also overkill if you're not overclocking.
You can probably get a better drive for cheaper than the 970 evo plus, but it's a decent drive anyway.
another aio i was mentioned was a 240 or 280 mm arctic freezer i believe - opinions on that?
and no i went i went with the aorus master as that’s what was most recommended on any website, yt video etc. that i went to.
as for the ssd, inwas thinking of a sns50 wd 1tb, or something among those lines, about $30-$40 cheaper just would prefer samsung drive because it’s samsung ya feel.
it’ll be my first time building a pc, but i will have someone shadowing me whilst i build to teach me. i just wanna order a good everything to not run into problems later down the road and regret buying said component
Gotcha. Yeah the Aorus Master is a good board but the extra features they're charging for aren't really useful to the average user. I'll make a suggested list, and you can take notes from that.
How do you feel about RGB? None, some, or as much as possible?
Here's my suggestion. No need for the extra fan on the back but you can add one if you like for looks. https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/csscTn
Same budget, but 12600k and other parts adjusted
another fan at the back is for the one extra fan i need for the case. comes w 3 installed at front, and then the aio is the top. 1 at the back i need so i grabbed the same case fan and put it at the back for the back fan
Yeah, for this setup that back fan is optional
btw falcie i wanted to get ur opinion on something
Sure
pato suggested that i rewrite or move the batch scripts to powershell since powershell is better and newer but i dunno since ill have to learn powershell
do u think its worth it or nah
sorry for late reply, i’m moving my desk around. but preferably some rgb for aesthetics. black case, ram, mobo, but fans and cooler a-rgb or rgb. give or take the case comes w controller preferably a-rgb but
reply when u can. answer the other dude first
Case would be p400a digital
Powershell is really powerful and good to know but I don't think it's necessary per se for the scripts
for ram, the 4000c18 kit of ballistix is nice
It's not a good price in cad right now
yes sir. all good lol
makes sense, ill start learning ps in my free time then, wont stress on it all that much rn
Swapped the cooler for the ARGB version https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/qVZxcb
thanks btw
i like the build @potent portal
questions:
why a 12600k rather than a 12400f.
what’s up with the motherboard? all of the necessary plugins for anything i may need?
mp33 ssd i have never heard of, are they good?
phantek rings a bell for psu but i’m not sure about that one either.
all would be the best bang for my buck iuo?
12600k has e cores
12600K is just better in every way tbh, even if you don't overclock
i’m newish to that, what that mean?
the arctic freezer is the best bang for the buck aio
lmfao, fair enough. sounds good. i have the option to oc if i feel like it as well
basically in addition to 6 performance cores, its also got 4 low power cores
More power efficient cores to be used on low power tasks like browsing the web or discord, so your main cores can focus on gaming, streaming, etc
helps in multitasking
ahhh i get it. okay cool
and keeps power consumption lower
MP33 is one of our most highly recommended drives also
the motherboard should have all u need if u dont need wifi
no i use ethernet so we’re good there
The AMP model from Phanteks is a top tier unit
okay perfect sounds good
I've got sources for my claims too if you want to look, can be fun to see
a card that goes into the pcie slot on the board
Plugs into the same slots the GPU does
and those are used for what?
i searched it up says network stuff
ah it’s for wifi
no?
Basically PCIe is the connection between the CPU and whatever you're plugging into it. It's a universal connection, so just about anything can use it.
okay sweet, by the sounds of it i wont need to use them too much
is the td500 compatible w a 280 mm aio?
i didn’t check that, i’m assuming so
i shall check
It's on the larger side so more than likely
yes it does
And according to pcpp it is
FAN SUPPORT - TOP
3X 120MM, 2X 140MM
i mine as well add the last rear single fan on there too to complete the build. a lil more air flow ain’t gonna hurt nobody
@potent portal micro atx board?
It's just shorter. There's no missing features or anything.
If you'd prefer the full atx version it's https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/32NxFT/asus-prime-b660-plus-d4-atx-lga1700-motherboard-prime-b660-plus-d4
thats what he said?
https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/user/wvillain/saved/9pbpK8
how’s this? all i did was edit the mobo. a buddy said it has higher VRM’s or something like that lol @potent portal
everything else is as you helped me w
Yeah that one does have better VRM but shouldn't matter too much below a 12700k or 12900k.
It's up to you. Both are good.
worth it to go with a atx board or mini atx? wont really matter all that much?
In practice there's not much difference unless you plan to fill it up with drives and PCIe devices
i’ve heard mini atx’s are a lil worsed then the actual regular atx sized board itself
That's a common misconception
In fact a lot of Mini ITX boards are the best at things like memory overclocking
alright sounds good i’ll go w the msi pro mini as it’s got better whatever tf i said it was
there also is a WD Sn550 for like $10 cheaper. is that worth it or no?
Sure, that's the same tier drive
sweet
It must not be on pcpp for that price though, it shows $120 cad
Even the newer/better SN570 is cheaper
🙃
that should be eveything we talked about, actually saved me a bit of money too. thank you! let me know if it’s wrong as it’s hard tabbing out and in on a phone lol
@potent portal
Not super crucial but you could put in the faster memory I picked out. It won't make for a huge difference real world probably, though.
Maybe like 3-5 fps in highly detailed games that thrash the memory
cl18 vs 16, whats that all abt there
if you don’t mind me asking
bc that’s 4000mhz as well no?
That's the CAS latency. It's complicated, but the idea is to get a lower proportion of speed to CAS. The one you have is 10ns, the one I picked is 9ns.
will i notice a huge difference in performance?
or anything of that matter
what you said sounds like it evened out to me between the two sticks we both picked
Probably nothing noticeable, maybe better 1% low frame times (less stuttering)
okay. so you’d say it’s worth it or keep the ones i got?
Personally I'd go for the faster sticks, but the ones you have are fine
i’m pre sure the sticks do add about $50 all in all. if it’s not gonna be entirely crucial, then i’ll probably just keep the ones i have and put that $50 towards a gpu
supposedly asus gou’s are supposed to drop 25% within the next couple weeks, just waiting to get the right price at the right time
shiz you right it was $18 more, you had the 2tb hdd on there as well
You could do this one and save quite a bit https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/product/kXbkcf/gskill-memory-f43200c16d32gvk
speaking of which, is that movo gonna have all of the necessities that i’m gonna need? idrk what the terms are but i’m hoping you can pick up what i’m putting down lol. the msi pro one
Yep, it has all the connections you need
Two ARGB headers, one top right and one bottom left
M.2 slot for the SSD
swapped it
alright sounds good
one more question if that’s okay, i’ll leave you alone after that lol
Sure
so let’s say i order the td500 and get that aio, which will happen, the controller it comes with is strictly for the fans around the pc (front and back) what about the aio fans? those are it’s own thing or do those go into the controller as well?
speaking of which, i guess another question LOL, is that 280 aio good enough for said 12600k?
Let me double check the manual but it'll come with either its own hub or a splitter
And yes it's plenty for a stock 12600k
It comes with its own controller
So you can either just use any extra slots in the argb controller or use the one for the cooler separate, you have 2 argb headers after all so either way it'll work
sounds good man, i’ll get to ordering sooner than later. probably text you soon lol, thank you so much
Happy to help. Killed some time waiting for my game server to end emergency maintenance lol
is the scythe fuma 2 too "forceful" for my CPU?
I read something somewhere that it could damage your CPU because of it's mounting pressure
No? That's not something I've heard of
Alright so, I'm deciding to install it and use my 2 spare arctic fans
So
My next question is, I have 2 case fans in the back, 2 in the front
If I orient the fans for the fuma to face toward the graphics card and suck up, I will have a total of 4 in the back, and 2 in the front, plus my graphics card fans
Is there a different way I should orient this? Isnt it bad to have an uneven balance of fans in a certain way because of some sort of draft thing?
The fans on the cooler don't count towards the pressure balance
Oh
that's good to know. So this orientation should work fine? Assuming I have clearence
Yep that's fine
Can you not rotate the Fuma 90 degree? That gpu isn't super hot, but right now cooler is sort of sucking heat from gpu 😅
The fuma couldn't fit
I wasted my two hours trying to make it work
And I'm so tired
Rip $60 on a cooler that I can't figure out
did you try rotate it 90 degreees?
ehh actually having it the other way would be better
Nzxt cases are nice
i know a lot of people have them and theyre pretty satisfied
theres ram that has same specs except only cost 100
@frank tangle I’d get the P400A, NZXT cases are hot garbage , the Asus Tuf and Lancool 205 are decent but imo P400A is best out of those
i think the store also has the corsair 4000d airflow
@vague oracle
which one do u recommend, the p400a or the 4000d
Prices on both?
same price
What price?
115 euros
out of those i would go lancool 205 or p400a depending on the prices as well
what country that seems a bit pricey?
albania
ahh
i got all my other pc parts for cheap cuz i bought them in different countries and asked relatives to bring them to me, but i cant do the same for the case
so im stuck paying extra
depends on the models and stores
this store had reasonable prices
other stores ask for 140+ euros
they're cool looking and nice cases until you realize that your GPU is not getting enough airflow
or if you just like torturing your pc components
Torture chamber
120C CPU: am i a joke to you?
Not in Canada. And yes there's some that are cheaper in Canada but they're trash worthy.
I mean these would purpose exactly the same for 22$ less
Sure, if you don't mind waiting until April 20th to get them lol
Oh didn't see that lol
Ill take a look
Looks great you could probably go a little cheaper on the power supply and im unsure about the monitor
im unfamiliar with amd models for gpus but theres a couple that are cheaper than the one you added
hello
and for 12th gen intel you might need to pick up the $9 mounting adapter bracket
hi
can someone help me with sub 600 usd build
playing some esports titles
mc, valorant
and streaming as well, i looked at the 5600g it seems promising
Yeah 5600g would be fine for your purposes
alright
wifi
@fossil cedar is the asrock b550 phantom gaming 4 /ac any good
it's a crappy board, but it will drive a 5600g fine
thx
GIGABYTE B550M DS3H (AM4 AMD/B550/Micro ATX/Dual M.2/SATA 6Gb/s/USB 3.2 Gen 1/PCIe 4.0/HMDI/DVI/DDR4/Motherboard) - this is the mobo i saw
I wouldnt get ds3h its pretty meh
unless it's unreasonably cheap
ds3h is fine for a 5600g
no built in wifi though, so it has to be cheap enough to still be worth it with the added cost of a wifi antenna
its 100 usd
Nah
i live in the uae so..
Oh.
prices r weird here
This is why you dont use usd so i know what region you're in
because idk if these parts are available in uae
or the same price
srry
Its fine its really just beneficial to you
ok thanks
the asrock board is for 511 aed
in the uae, msi b550m pro-vdh wifi is available for cheaper and it's a far superior board
512 aed i think ^
Id do this instead
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7GQ7Xy
shipping bumps it up tho
including shipping
I'd rather get that b450 aorus for like 100$
i want to keep it below 2100 aed
lmao the mx330-g has a higher shipping cost than base cost
o yea the b450 mortar i think was for about the same
probably because its shipping from here
you are probably going to need buy parts locally instead of online
online makes your prices almost 1.5x because of shipping
idk how the local market is in uae
Might wanna do local for that then
its okay
I can bargain in pc markets here
well part recommendations are typically based on price
so any pcpp list we make is going to be pretty useless
i have a q, instead of a 5600g shud i go for a gt 1030 or 1050ti
literally any am4 board will drive a 5600g perfectly fine as long as it has a bios update for it
5600g should be fine i would save your money for a dedicated gpu
along w an i3 10100f
again i have no idea how the market is so its kinda hard to make a decision
here 1050ti's r going around for 800 aed
Nah wouldnt get that
I don’t like the look of cpu cooler. I also can’t get that Psu since it isn’t in stock at my Best Buy.
Ram also doesn’t look nice..I’m sorry if I sound picky
and gt 1030's for 600 aed
it's perfectly fine to have aesthetic preferences
however, limiting yourself only to best buy is going to be a bad time
do you have a best buy employee discount?
i was helping my friends do a pc build where they wanted as many parts from best buy as possible due to employee discount
if you have more money you can get the se-224-xt from ID-COOLING as the cpu cooler but you'll have to get the $9 mounting bracket for 12th gen. for the ram you can probably go with https://pcpartpicker.com/product/mLCFf7/adata-xpg-gammix-d20-16-gb-2-x-8-gb-ddr4-3200-cl16-memory-ax4u320038g16a-dcbk20 if you dont want the look of the grey ram
still had to buy a couple parts online because i could not in good faith recommend something from the local best buy selection
they sure did have a lot of nzxt h510s and hyper 212s though
No sadly I do have a micro center tho
consider buying some parts online for a more diverse part selection if you aren't tied to one retailer for a good reason
best buy and microcenter don't have the greatest selections for some things
i went to CA microcenter, their selection of coolers, ram, cases, ssds, etc. were pretty meh
i view microcenter purely as that place with good cpu deals
there’s only 10100f in stock and nzxt junk
okay so i have a friend, and he said the rates for pc's w ryzen 5 3600 nd 3050 and 16 gb ram r going for 3,500
should i shell out the 1,500 aed and go for it, i wont be able to upgrade for next 5 yrs tho (welp)
Micro center is only good for cpu mobo combos and sometimes gpus
I mean if you’re only doing esports 3050 should be sufficient
yeah
Idk how the pricing is tho
the price is not attractive though lol
here its the lowest its ever been
actually, does that include taxes/fees?
you’re the second person from uae ive seen here 😂
or do you have to pay extra taxes/fees on top
3500 aed = 950 usd
if that's the final price it could be worse
they were around 3000 aed like a month ago
no no final incl vat.
If the price fluctuates maybe you could wait? unless it’s just going up
what does the rest of the system look like
cooler/case/ram speed/ssd/psu
3050 will definitely crush esports for the next 5 years
crucial p2 500gb
cougar mx330
P2 is mid
TEAMGROUP T-Force Dark Z 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 Dram 3600MHz
Not bad
cheapest m.2 i could find in 500 gb
It’s probably still better than my ssd
psu- MSI MAG A650BN 650W 80+ Bronze Power Supply
Usb 2.0 sheesh
P2 belongs in the trash
my home
wb everything else tho
theyre fine
the rest isn't bad
ive never heard of the msi power supply tho maybe thats just because im stupid
its bronze rated so um
my 10 year old hard drive had a 5 times higher write speed than the crucial P2
LOL
that hard drive could do 200 MB/s
bronze is efficiency, not a rating of how good the psu is overall
it just means its not as efficient when drawing power from the wall and into your computer ( i think)
close
oh okay
something along that line
the conversion from mains voltage to your pc's voltage rails is less efficient
the efficiency loss happens inside the psu itself
Its not really cheaping out if its bronze
the psu you listed is C tier
will be fine with a 3600 + 3050
not a very high demand
i mean,, it is an igpu system
but do not go lower
eh good enough
im just considering the 3050 btww
anyways, i strongly recommend not going lower than C tier if you want the pc to survive 5 years lol
ok anyways yeah the psu should be fine for your needs but if you're getting a better gpu ever you should think about swapping that psu out for a better one
no still 5600g 😳
Oh
just getting a good psu for future upgrades (dgpu)
i think i might be able to get a gpu by the end of this year
Aight so so far your idea is
cpu: 5600g
cooler: stock
motherboard: undecided
ram: TEAMGROUP T-Force Dark Z 16GB Kit (2x8GB) DDR4 Dram 3600MHz
storage: not the p2
gpu: igpu
case: cougar mx330
psu: MSI MAG A650BN 650W 80+ Bronze Power Supply
here's the build
take out the p2
ignore the p2
nd wht do i replace it with
keep in mind that mobo does not have wifi built in
i mean, i don't go below C tier even for igpu systems
hmmm
wifi is a must for me
this cannot really be called a "good" psu
just passable
yeah you're going to need to buy a wifi adapter if you use that board
im looking for cheaper options if thats too expensive
ye its good enough
but including the wwifi adapter it starts adding up
173 aed but its a sale
wait
not amazon.com
yeah i just realized
we have to pay import duties and shipping
yea
i set the region to uae and the currency to uad
Sata is probably fine but only if it's significantly cheaper than nvme
For games and stuff its fine but you really want your OS (windows) to be on m.2 nvme ssd because its just faster
ok so if i get a 256 gig m.2 drive for boot
and then get like an external hard drive for my games and files will it be fine
like a usb drive
Probably not external but internal 3.5" hdd is fine for most games
alright
177 aed
wait
Bear in mind that 256gb is usually really closely priced to 512gb these days, but if you can get it for around half it's fine
I mean it should be fine... price is not exactly ideal but it'll do the job
so a 256gb mp33 and a 1tb barracuda
https://www.amazon.com/TEAMGROUP-MP33-256GB-Gen3x4-TM8FP6256G0C101/dp/B07XHMB5GP/?th=1 this is 150aed after shipping/import/taxes and whatever extra fees
Ya np
Should I take out the aio so I can keep un plugging everything from the motherboard because it’s in the way
Move the pipes to the top
Or put it on last that’s actually a better idea
I’m taking everything out
then just take it out
if youre taking everything out anyways
It’s connected in the back
Do I cut the cable ties
To get it loose
what cable ties
it’s probably easier to cut them if you can’t move the cables around
I am but they made them so tight
I can’t get scissors in
use something like pliers to cut them maybe
Or just carefully keep snipping at the cable tie with scissors
It all connects to this bay
Bar*
is it daisy chained ?
assuming your power supply and system are turned off and unplugged your fine to unplug whatever cables
It’s the rgb connected
Hub*
It’s not first time building a pc or at least swapping the case
Alright
I got it out
Nice
These motherboard cables won’t come out and I don’t wanna pull them too hard
This last one won’t come out
pull from the plastic vase
*base
don’t pull from the cable
if you need to, move the pc so it’s on its side on a table
so you can reach it easier
I had a question for anyone who can help, Planning my first build, I have the mother board I want and such, https://www.newegg.ca/p/N82E16813157898?Item=N82E16813157898 , there is a M.2 (KEY E) For WiFi , What chip am I supposed to use for this? Im new but this is something thats really new to me
https://www.amazon.ca/Sintech-M-Key-Adapter-Compatible-Intel/dp/B07WBXP632/ref=sr_1_9?gclid=Cj0KCQjw6J-SBhCrARIsAH0yMZg3kXo0rg_eaytJcn0AsQmoa0T8MiC5GcFYEyQQoz912rwOH7XUfywaAgTBEALw_wcB&hvadid=588821955286&hvdev=c&hvlocphy=9000787&hvnetw=g&hvqmt=e&hvrand=11372021283883342433&hvtargid=kwd-716193150167&hydadcr=24951_13554014&keywords=m2+e+key+wifi&qid=1648939776&sr=8-9 I was seeing this Chip but I have just no physical idea
bottom one is E key
and labeled "wifi"
what you're linking for the e-key thing is actually an adapter for m.2 2280 to the e key layout
which isn't what you're looking for
I would not buy that board very poor
Also z390 is 9th gen intel - should not be buying in 2022
so today I said screw the stock cooler and gave it another shot at installing my scythe fuma 2
and I can happily say I finally got it mounted. That thing was a pain in the butt
