#building-and-recc-chat
1 messages · Page 241 of 1
Vehicles I think is better balanced than Battlefield because you're a very obvious target and some of those 100+ enemies will have RPGs
Steam does have the refund policy if you want to try it for a bit and see if it's something you like
id like help with a build if possible
including this https://www.newegg.com/zotac-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-zt-d40710j-10p/p/N82E16814500546R?Item=N82E16814500546R&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-14-500-546R-_-02162024
my budget is like, 1200 could go up a bit if needed
using the pc for:
rust
competitive cs2
fortnite
video editing
recording the games listed above
possible streaming but not a priority
possibly some rgb in there 
would also love to be able to play at good frames in games with high cpu dependency
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, Radeon RX 7800 XT, Montech AIR 100 ARGB MicroATX Mid Tower
Could do 4070 Super if you stretch budget
Or used 3080 otherwise
I tried for a minute and gave up on newer gen stuff https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VjV9vj
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 7600X, GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, Fractal Design Pop Air RGB ATX Mid Tower
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/zDgjgB If you're willing to go over....budget not quite big enough for a 70ti
If you're comfortable with open box you can be WAY under with an open box 3080 https://www.newegg.com/msi-geforce-rtx-3080-rtx-3080-ventus-3x-plus-10g-oc-lhr/p/N82E16814137816R?Item=N82E16814137816R
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, Antec AX61 ELITE ATX Mid Tower
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, GeForce RTX 3080 10GB LHR, Antec AX61 ELITE ATX Mid Tower
Single tower for multithreaded work is...something else
doesn't mean anything....
And that cooler with it's FC fans outputting like a jet 
God that cooler costs $32
It's the same price as the dual tower I put
There's entirely zero reason to justify that
so instead of attacking my opinion/list just ride with yours homie, that's all....if you think your list/parts/build is better so be it....just save us all the typing.....
I say these things to teach lad, if you think that's attacking you need to be a bit thicker skinned
Thermalright's $32 coolers have been the best price/perf for over a year now
Use the advice and learn lol
you're nobodies teacher...you're just some random with an opinion like everybody else....i've been building PCs for longer than you've been alive...lol....you'll just be blocked too....

selective criticism is crazy....
he did teach me, that's one
also gotta say, the ag500 isn't the best value
dual towers can be had from thermalright for the same price
and that's fine...and i'm sure i've taught alot in other servers as well...but what i don't do is go around selectively critizing everyone else lists...i don't have that energy
AG500 used to be good value, like 9-12 months ago but yeah thermalright has just dominated the air cooler market lately
i'm just not a fan of thermalright and i wouldn't put any of their products in one of my builds...that's all no harm
so when i recommend things it's not on my list
i can go over.

thermalright uses the same factory as noctua
in a pc build, personal biases shouldn't be factored in
Love how it was just one thing in the list and I get a block threat

like there are so many others here I correct way more on
you don't have to explain....it' doesn't matter....it's my list, so it's my opinion...not sure what's so hard about that guys.....
i see there is a common mentality here
it was all constructive advice
stuff in pc world changes a lot within a span of even a week
say, one week a 4070 is the best deal ever for its tier
then another that title goes to radeon
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, GeForce RTX 4070 SUPER, Montech AIR 100 ARGB MicroATX Mid Tower
welp i'm not here for advice or criticisms....i just wanna post a build...and be about my day.....and i'm sure all the other people that tune in to this channel would rather not sift through all this unnecessary banter and back and forth
added more RGB @little osprey since you can go over
and the 4070S to consider if you decide to go for it
what's your ultimate cap like no more than X amount?
No matter where you post a part list, be it here, reddit, facebook, whatever, someone is going to criticize it. It's part of being on the Internet.
It's the selectivism that I won't stand for. Yall say stuff to who yall want.
And I'm not gonna argue or go back and forth about cause it's dumb and immature...so i'll just block whoever has something to say about what i post from now on....
When did anyone do that? We were simply giving constructive criticism
Three dots… 
Literally anytime someone other than a select few has an opinion...he's not the first one i've blocked in here....and probably won't be the last
You're allowed to have an opinion, but don't get mad when someone expresses theirs in return
Keep to your opinions, but don't expect people to not criticize
maybe 200 bucks?
Even I have my opinion, but it's flexible if the knowledge is crucial
perfectly doable
So 1400 tops?
thanks :)
As for lists, feel free to listen to anyone you feel best suits you
But expect differing advice
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/NqjDTY
https://www.newegg.com/zotac-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-zt-d40710j-10p/p/N82E16814500546R
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, Montech AIR 100 ARGB MicroATX Mid Tower
whats difference between 4070ti and super
^same reason
which one should i realistically buy
you can also do uber cheap 7900XT
the open box 4070ti or just 4070 super
okay, sweet
honorable mention:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/DkpkmD
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, Radeon RX 7900 XT, Montech AIR 100 ARGB MicroATX Mid Tower
bit worse overall for productivity but still excellent
could that mobo accept quad channel ram in the future
yes...
but
over 96gb ddr5
you start getting compatability issues
crippled speeds
poor performance
alright, i was mostly just thinking same amount but just spread out + rgb lol
you can do 4 sticks on a 13600KF
for whenever i decide to glam it out
12600KF I've never looked into
but the generational jump to 13th gen, 4 sticks became easier, but still not as good as 2 sticks
2 sticks just runs way better
alright, ill just stick to two sticks then
even if i get rgb ram in the future lmao
There's severe performance penalties with 4 sticks on Intel.
It's mostly the motherboards that improved. A lot of Z690 boards can't run 4 sticks past 4400 (DDR5).
it's not easy to see in the preview hold on
ohhhh now i see it
ur good
thats hella clean
whats up :)
wifi yes or no
alr
ye
ah then all good
uhhh one question
it doesn't have wifi, but 2.5g ethernet iirc
whats different between 12th gen and 13th gen and is it worth it to go with the 13600kf or no
it's a significant IPC increase and 4 more e cores
but overall value for money not really
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/mnxqQP This would be my $1400 build....bumped up the CPU and cooling....and you can grab your open box 70ti, or can keep the 4070 super FE to stay a lil bit under
Part List - Intel Core i7-12700KF, GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, Antec AX61 ELITE ATX Mid Tower
12600KF is still uber powerful for creative work
okay bet
idk if it was worth the extra like
if anything
150 roughly
what is even the difference between kf and k
included iGPU in the cpu for basic stuff, but quick sync is big
so would look like:
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/RVxqQP
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600K, GeForce RTX 4070 Ti, Montech AIR 100 ARGB MicroATX Mid Tower
https://www.newegg.com/zotac-geforce-rtx-4070-ti-zt-d40710j-10p/p/N82E16814500546R
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Hc7scf/asus-dual-oc-geforce-rtx-4070-super-12-gb-video-card-dual-rtx4070s-o12g
what the freak
so its literally just
integrated included with k but not with kf
yep I know what you're gonna say
yep
lolol
but quick sync is a big benefit for an editing rig if you can leverage the budget for it
how so
what even IS quick sync
😭
it's an onboard encoder
iirc @potent portal knows about it way better than I do if you're curious
having a second encoder is also great for sideloading encoding to cpu while you play games for example
though you'd be spared AV1 as the 12600K (UHD770) lacks AV1 encode
Quicksync when used in Adobe apps supports more complex effects than GPU rendering. If you didn't have the iGPU (F CPU) then you'd be limited to two options: use effects that the GPU supports, or use the CPU for much, much slower rendering.
nvidia then
9/10 you'll just use the GPU/nvenc it's plenty fast
and the quality will be damn near indestinguishable from CPU encoding
if it's a few buck more yes...more so for troubleshooting purposes
Then quicksync isn't a factor. The iGPU is still good to have for troubleshooting purposes or for running multi monitor if either of those appeals to you.
for davinci, i doubt it
If it's the same as Adobe, maybe. For adobe, ideally you want NVENC+QSV
i will have 3 monitors so
also possibly a 4th 😭 so uh
If davinci supports seperate encode/decode devices then iGPU could be good
You could run 2 monitors off the iGPU to avoid the classic Nvidia multi monitor bugs
is that like
supa complicated to setup
or nah
Not in the free version
Plug and play once drivers are installed
kewl
do i need drivers for both the igpu and 4070ti or is the igpu drivers included with cpu drivers
Yes you'd need drivers for each
okay, sounds good
im not gonna be the one assembling it so

offloading the work to my homie who has done this before and i pay him 30 bucks 
so is this the like
the one
probably
yeah

is it different in like
any other way
Kek approved pc
not really
okay, cool
thank you for pc help :) i appreciate
sorry for all the questionings
i shall make cool frag montages with this computer....
all good lad, good luck with it 
ok 😭
💀
one more questioning
yeah go for it
uhh whats best windows 10 thing
like
whats the best way to get it
prefferably cheap 😭
black market alley
Damn, I didn't know about bonus creative effects for iGPUs
They're not bonus effects, just more of them can be accelerated
And only for Intel
That sounds like a bonus to me!
Legally the cheapest way to get windows is don't activate it, it's free, legal and all it gives you is a watermark
My friend made a questionable gpu upgrade to a (3080ti). id say its beyond the capability of his current cpu a i5 10400f.
Im trying to pick a cpu for him but on the mobo a b660. Idk if a 12700kf or a 12900kf would be a better pair for his gpu hes on 1080p and mainly plays fps. Im free to hear all other suggestions
id go for a a620 board and a 7600(x)/7700(x)/7800x3d
12th gen is already outdated
and poor value for money atm
yep
theyre on 14th gen currently but thats basically just 13th gen
and no point really paying more for a k cpu on a b board from intel, k means overclockable but needs a z board
yeah 14th gen shouldnt be a thing
yes
Lol
yes
7600 is the same
whichever is cheaper
but cheaper and has a cooler
ye
non-x is binned just a tiny bit slower but you can set the x and non-x to run almost exactly like each other
so the difference is a couple % at most
and you'll pay maybe 10, 20 less for it, which might be more like 10% cash
Yes
Yes
Shh I know where you live
yes
Why do some people update bios after building a pc
Wouldn't u naturally have the newest version? If not how would I know if I have to updated
The motherboard was likely manufactured 6-9 months before it was sold
So the bios would be at least that much out of date
A lot can happen in a year. Stability upgrades, new CPUs, lots of things you'd benefit from updating.
Yes. AMD just revealed that on the latest update they patched several critical security flaws.
😔
Finally started building my son's pc can't wait to come bother you guys for more info 🤣🤣
Bring it on....
Had a friend send me a pic of his pc saying it overheats and shuts down. It's a cybertron prebuilt. Is it me or does the radiator situation look off?
what exactly overheats?
If it's the CPU and it's shutting down quickly then the pump might have died
He's pretty clueless unfortunately. I just thought maybe the aio placement was off
Rad is fine. Top mount just happens to be a bit better. Could download hwinfo to monitor temps & such. Hold finger on pump to at least see if it's vibrating(running). If so, maybe bad mounting. Still hard to confirm even if it's a temp issue specifically
Opinion on palworld? Never played a open world game and thinking of buying.
minecraft be like
Fun af
It's on game pass if you want to try without paying
If I switch from rainbow six siege on console to PC if I connect Ubisoft will the characters and skins switch over?
Also Steam refund policy is nice for anything you're not sure you'll enjoy
Is there anything else I need to do right after setting up PC besides motherboard and GPU drivers, windows, and updating bios
Enable xmp in bios so your memory runs at the rated speed
So I need help
I might’ve messed up when I ordered some fans
So I ordered 9 lian li 120 sl infinity fans but
I didn’t know that u needed to get reversed fans to make it look good and get the right air flow
So I don’t know if anyone can help me with how I should set up the air flow
That's like $400
What gpu have you got again
What’s that
Before I go further
Reddit self own ?
Alright
Before I go further
Let me entertain your idea of matching forward and reverse fans
Look up
Thermalright C12C-S
Then look up
Thermalright C12R
They're matching front and reverse fans, daisy chainable
Far better performance than infinities
And they're all $4-$8 a piece
I just want to see how you feel about those, as they're arguably far better overall, and don't need L connect to run either
L connect in my experience with unifans is very flakey
But if this isn't enough to change your mind, then we can go further
Usually
Airflow at the front on cases is intake
Bottom is intake
Eh idk the infinity just look good bra
Yep all that I just wrote applies to h9 flow
Pick any combo
Not any noticeable difference
Alr so back is exhaust
Sure
Top intake ?
Can but you'll want not too much positive pressure
Hence me saying only exhaust
H9 flow is a chimney style case
Ah
So it prefers bottom intake and top exhaust
Ok I’ll do that then
You get at the minimum those 6 and it works well enough
What do I do with back and the fan on the side
More fans is not more better
But it looks better
^
^
I mean if you're only after looks instead of flow efficiency it can be literally anything lol
They can both be intake or exhaust
It's a lot for fans
Unifans also aren't really quiet
Meh
I haven't touched my AL's in a long time now
They had only 40% rpm range control
No fan stop
And a really annoying hum
And the flakey L connect
I'm not saying they're bad, lots of people like them
But after seeing what budget fans can do, I've been converted lol
So I get 3 of these and I should be fine with aesthetic
Idk I just got into all this pc stuff so
Sure you'd be fine
Alr sweet
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/wjb3vj Is this good chat need for 4k designing
what kind of programs do you plan to use or currently use?
This is where I really wanna ask Felix about, but from my assessment
I'd probably throw the ssd out for a high end gen 5 drive
Intel 750 is very outdated too, outclassed by current high end drives
And replace the cooler for AIO, and cpu for 7950X to save money
The extra cpu cache wouldn't be very useful
@cyan ravine halp pls
6000-8000 USD for workstation pc with AI thrown in
Thx
What's your current system
do u mean Like windows?
No like what pc do you currently use
Mac
Mac....?
…
Lol
There are 1000 different macs
I can't get any gauge of the kind of level of system you need without getting a bit of background here
hm
Call me being a bit too caring, I like to take in what people want to achieve first before I spit out a list lol
Especially at budgets like this, you might find something not nearly as insane is needed
But if you're working a basic job in video production, I wouldn't suggest that
I'd suggest something much more reasonable
Mate I couldn't live with myself if I sent a soul out there with a 10K list to come back with a loan for an internship position 💀
XD
If you can help me with some background here I'd be more than happy to take in your request lolol
Like what kind of mac is it
Air, m1, m2, pro 2022, pro 2018, pro desktop, mini
Etc etc
Apple Mac Pro (2019)
Xeon W-3223 | 64 GB | 1 TB SSD | Radeon Pro 580X | NL
Ok so pretty serious rig
What kind of work do you do on the regular
Take me through the kind of things you're expecting to do
How often are you doing this
i just need something insane
3 times a week
Do you know how much vram you need
Insane comes in 100 shapes at 10K
Is 64gb possible
Yes
But not on x670e
Okay
Ok good
Is the monitor in the budget
Nah
What monitor have you got rn
Samsung 57" Gaming Odyssey Neo G95NC Monitor
What's your current storage looking like
Empty full, need hdds to spare?
bruh what monster is this guy building? I wish I were here earlier to see this
Just need to check if the board I picked is wired for bifurcation and I can hit 7K on the dot
good
how much is it
Threadripper won't fit so
14900K does though if you don't care about power draw
Oh wait I forgot to check the motherboard brb
Nope I need to change the board my bad
This build for 7.000$ is looks already crazy hopefully it performs good
thank you alot 🙏
I was wondering how the list went from $10K to $6.7K until I saw the that the Intel 750 drive was removed from the list. $2488.87 for 1.2TB is crazy 💀
@fickle peak fixed it. Found a motherboard that runs multi-gpu
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/cTTKdH
Part List - AMD Ryzen 9 7950X, 2 x GeForce RTX 4090, Montech AIR 903 MAX ATX Mid Tower
Don't need it
Gen 4 is already crazy fast
Is it a Gen 5 drive?
No it's optane
Optane is great
But
Optane also not really needed
Gen 4 is already great for 4K work
Oh gotcha
There is value to optane for the very high end, but not 1.28tb worth
That's like, 24/7 server level
You can get a small capacity one of a couple hundred gb if needed tho
But the benefit of optane here is minimal
Gen 4 to gen 5 you'd be talking fractions of a second already
Let alone optane
Let me make it clear btw @fickle peak what I just sent with the new board up here would be insane as it is
If you went threadripper you could chain more GPU's to it
Or if you need more vram you can do multiple 3090's (no SLI) or multiple vram modded 2080 Ti's
But by pure compute power that will be up there with the most stupid
If you can do water looping you could switch to $1800 4090's instead and make a custom loop for the price difference quite literally ($1200 is more than enough)
ZMT loop with two gpu blocks, a 420x60 rad at the front with a d5 pump
The cpu could go in it too but doesn't really need to
Having dual or triple gpus would be good for vms tho, source it out to multiple users or encode in parallel while you work
@fickle peak making sure you read the updated list as the first one I shared wouldn't do dual gpu
Bro's disappeared 💀

I was thinking about putting my RX 480 in my 6800 XT system just for screen recording for a second lol
and then I tried using OBS with my 6800 XT and changed my mind
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/VZWJGP
Can someone make this list, but “girly-girl-ify” it?
Part List - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, GeForce RTX 4090, Phanteks Eclipse P500A D-RGB ATX Mid Tower
don't get that mouse. it'll start double-clicking within a couple months
yooooo free double clicking so you don't have to 
I hate it
I had that mouse. It's the reason why I won't get another SteelSeries product
Part List - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, GeForce RTX 4090, Vetroo AL600 ATX Mid Tower
I replaced the keyboard (so that you only need one companion software for peripherals) but it's still black
Realistically, getting a pink case and white parts is as good as you can do by default
Unless you're comfortable with painting your GPU/ordering a custom GPU backplate overlay
And maybe some pink cable extensions
I’ve been trying to bump up fiancés pc, a little bit towards mine. So I figured matching it, then adjusting the colours and some parts would be better. But I’m dumb for that
It was as simple as replacing the case and adding a white variant of the same GPU
Ah
Again, you might want to get pink/white cable extensions to keep the aesthetic clean
hey im not that tech savvy but i was going to upgrade my prebuilt which has a 1070 and i7 8700
I was going to upgrade it with a new 850W power supply and a 4070. Do i need a new motherboard too? Im pretty sure I do not have the best motherboard but do i need like one of those 500$ expensive ones to support the graphics card?
Im good on ram rn tho bc i have 2 16gb ddr4
oh and should i get a new cpu too?
A 4070 will work on your current board, although I don't believe it'll work to it's fullest potential. Especially since you are now creating a good size bottleneck with your cpu being so lowend compared to the new GPU. You'd ideally want to upgrade your CPU as well and in doing so, you'd need to upgrade your mobo. Plenty of current mobos support ddr4 still so you could potentially keep your kit, but games nowadays are seeing a benefit from 32gb ram.
would a 3080 or 3070 be better then? because I dont want to dump that much money into upgrading my pc.
i just need something that will perform a little better and move away from my 1070
It really depends on which games you are going to play. Are you wanting to play the newest games out at highest graphic settings? Or do you already have set games you play that you want better performance in?
for example, I really wanted to expierence starfield on high settings. but performance was so bad on the lowest. but mods helped me play on medium settings.
just upgrading for newer games that are coming out
With wanting to play newer games, I'd suggest going 40 series nividia or 7000 series amd. I haven't kept up to much on the price to performance ratio on these newest gpus, so someone else will have to recommend which one could fit your budget. Which leads me to another question. What is your max budget?
around 1000-1200$
^max though
but im not trying to build a whole new pc
as i got some new parts in my build
Oh yeah I'm pretty sure you can have a solid deal going with that budget. It seems you only need a new GPU/PSU/CPU and mobo. Which leaves the ram/case/fans and peripherals out of the budget which helps immensely.
I imagine someone like @cyan ravine or @mossy venture could get you a solid upgrade without hitting your max budget.
@reef steeple you could also sell that prebuilt and make a good one yourself.
That's understandable. I've fell out of the PC world for a while so I'm not caught up enough to help you much more about what parts to specifically get. Just the info that stays static.
I don't think it's a prebuilt
it is a prebuilt
nvm
i just got a new ssd and ram in it
Yeah I went back up and saw that.
Lotta people are in the market rn for a beginner pc. That could easily fetch 300-400 for a beginner
Hey - I’m using the B650 X AX V2 motherboard, and ive got my PC nearly ready to boot. When i turn the power on, there is a red LED that bounces between the CPU LED and DRAM LED.
I have tried using one RAM stick at a time. I did this by powering on the machine, seeing the red LED light up. I turn the power off and disconnect everything from the PC. I then pulled one of the 2 ram sticks out, connect everything back up and repeat the process. I am still seeing the light.
After going through that process i am currently clearing the CMOS and will try again soon.
Has anyone used this motherboard and have had a similar problem?
(If you price it higher than what it’s worth, which probably isn’t that much, but it’s whatever)
Do you have the ram in the correct slots? Refer to your manual, but generally slot 2 and 4 are the ones the ram needs to be in
Yep, i double checked what slots they are supposed to be in and have put them back in place
You've made sure every cable is seated fully/correctly?
Yep, ive reconnected all the wires ive needed a few times, ensured they all are clipped on and fit. The ATX24 pin for the mono, the EPS for the CPU, and the PCIe i use for the gpu i have
Alright. With you having checked cables as well as did troubleshooting with the ram.. I'd reseat your CPU and cooler.
Unless you have other ram you can try.
Those 2 sticks are the only ram i have unfortunately. Just bought everything friday, i am definitely new to the whole building process @frigid night
alright. Sounds like you have a good grasp on the process though which is helpful
After a minute or 2, the red LED does switch from the DRAM LED to the CPU LED and stays that way until i turn it off
Hm, I suppose I should have asked this earlier. DDR4 or DDR5?
DDR5
Which CPU?
AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D
DDR5 likes to take it's time training on a first boot or cmos clear. Turn the PC on and let it sit for 10 - 15 minutes.
If nothing after that 10 - 15 minutes, then reseat your CPU and cooler.
Ok nice ill try it hopefully that does it
If that doesn't fix your issue, throw another message in here. I'll be home all day doing some cleaning so if I see it, I'll respond. I imagine others can offer some insight as well.
absolutely i will, should have messaged in here earlier while i was going through some troubleshooting yesterday. I appreciate it!
How dare you have a real life outside of wegg.
I mean if wegg wants to pay me for using me as customer service that would be fantastic
(Not a joke targeted at you, targeted at wegg using us as free customer support)
Ok, ive been letting it run for ab 20min now, and the only red LED i have is the VGA port
which to me seems like a better sign. wondering if i should just continue to let it run?
Alright, try reseating your GPU and making double sure that the cables are plugged in fully on both PSU and GPU
ok wait… i forgot to plug the vga cord in lol. i can do that while the computer is running right? i should be able to?
@frigid night
just want to be cautious with what im doing
Yeah you can
and id connect the cord into the GPU’s vga slot correct?
not the mobo’s? or does it matter
In the GPU. You'll probably want to use DP or HDMI.
Having the cable connected or not doesn't determine if the PC boots though
Should still boot even with no display connected.
With a solid vga led, leads me to believe it's not detecting the GPU whether it be from not fully seated to not getting power from the PSU.
Pull the GPU out and reseat it. Make sure you feel it slot in all the way. Once you have lined up in the slot, it's ok to apply some pressure to make sure it's in there. A lot of time even after I here the click of the retainer tab, I push a little more to make sure.
What GPU do you have?
I believe these use the 6+2 connectors yeah?
If so, make sure that the +2 connector is aligned correctly with the rest of the connector when plugging in.
not certain but it does fit into the PCIe & CPU slots on the PSU i have
Should only use the pcie cables in the pcie slots
i see my fans arent running as fast as the other case fans
my gpu fans^ arent running as fast idk if that has anything to do w it
Nah, GPU fans will run independently of your case fans.
got it. ik i have a 12V2x6 slot on my PSU
is that where the gpu connection will go?
Which PSU do you have?
MSU MAG R750GL PCIE5
Show me the connector for your GPU
Yeah, Shut off the PC, flip off the PSU, then unplug the connectors.
I just want to see what the connectors look like for your GPU
This would be for Nvidia 40 series GPUs utilizing the 12vhpwr connector
i dont know how much these help but if youd like me to take more please let me know
You are good.
The cable you have closest to the camera. That's a daisy chain cable. For sake of cable management since you already have your pc opened up.. get the other single 6+2 cable that your PSU should have came with
Use that one instead. Plug the non 6+2 end into the PSU into any of these marked in red
that would be the other cable with PCIe labeled on the side of it right
correct.
ok so i should be using both of the PCIe cables? but plug the pcie cable i just grabbed into the GPU,
?
Nope. You can unplug the first pcie cable that you were using and put that back in the box.
ok
You only need 1 connector for your GPU so no reason to have the daisy chain cable out.
Remember to reseat your GPU. Once you've done that, go ahead and plug the connector in. Make sure that the +2 is even with the rest of the connector.
How do i go about resetting my gpu? taking it out of the slots and putting it back in?
Correct. We call it reseating. Since it's already seated, you have to take it out and put it back in. Just a quicker way to say that essentially.
oh sorry u said reseat not reset, read right over that haha
a large portion of boot issues stems from poor seating. Not that someone didn't do it right, just that sometimes things get slightly offkilter and doesn't make a full connection which then causes anything from minor to major issues.
Yeah makes sense and im new to it all so i have no idea - very much could have been the case
I was there at one point. There is a lot of research that goes into building, but once you have the basics, you have the foundation.
I will say too, When i tried to open the SSD compartment thing in this pic, i stripped the screw pretty badly. That screw that i stripped was held in by a grommit which i had to kind of hammer out lightly in order to put the SSD card in the computer. i dont know if any sort of mechanical damage could have come from that and whether or not the mobo could have relayed that information somehow?
but i just took the GPU out and ill reseat now
just thought it might be worth to mention
I just put the GPU back in, i didnt hear a click but i definitely felt something latch @frigid night
Generally a good idea to never hammer something in place on a sensitive electronic part.
good. Push a little bit more to make double sure it's in there.
Ok, i think its definitely in
yeah that will be the last time i do something like that.. hoping that doesnt come back to bite
as far as the heatsink for your nvme ssd, I believe it's ok. as long as the NVME SSD is seated in the slot and being held in place, you're fine.
a lot of cheaper motherboards don't even have heatsink covers.
yeah i double checked that, should be ok. the SSD is def connected to its port
good to know, gives me a bit more confidence
Yeah, I mean, I have a mobo in my other PC that I somehow broke the GPU retaining tab off of.. GPU still slots in and works. Certain things are there to help, but aren't exactly needed.
you made sure the 6+2 is fully seated? all looks flush?
yep and i put that pcie cable in one of the ports you have circled in your pic
clicked in and everything
May as well take the couple extra seconds to push in the EPS cable as well to make double sure. Make sure you have the EPS cable plugged into one of the cirled plugs as well?
I find redundancy works well.
absolutely i dont mind doing this. been working on this since yesterday and i appreciate the help
ill make sure now
Once you've done that, go ahead and plug your display into the back of you GPU and flip the PSU switch and try to turn the PC on.
The EPS is definitely in, plugged into the same place ive had it
should i try a different port?
I don't think that'll be an issue.
With everything plugged in correctly, your PC should boot 🤞
I really hope so hahah
@bronze oasis While waiting, Are you able to take a picture of the back of your PSU where the cables are plugged in?
as close up as you can would be awesome.
Is a display port to HDMI cable.tje same as a display port? Stupid question I know but curious
yeah i can do that
actually i cant but ill try to get it from a couple angles
@frigid night my psu is upside down from this POV
Yes, but no. DP delivers display differently than HDMI, but with a DP to HDMI, it gets converted. In most cases there won't be much of a difference in quality.
Looks good. I was curious about the smaller ATX 24P connector.
yep np!!
ill plug in now
Ok, i do get a red LED that was on for DRAM, but now is on for CPU. i expect this to switch to VGA but maybe not
it doesnt appear that the computer is booting, monitor still says no signal
Should i factor a long boot time into this? let it run for another 15-20?
Alright. Next step is to reseat your CPU.
You've reseated your RAM and GPU as well as cables. So we know that it shouldn't be any of those.
With the light being stuck on CPU, that now leads to something wonky there.
ok ill send in a few pictures once i remove the fans and cooler
When you remove the cooler.. pull the CPU and take a picture of the bottom of it with as clear of a pic you can get. Do the same for the socket the CPU sits in.
The reason for a super clear pic is to easily spot anything that could potentially be wrong with either of those components.
Take a picture of the bottom face of the cpu? or a bird’s eye view of the cpu from the top?
Bottom face of the CPU. The part that makes contact with the socket on the motherboard.
What we want to look for (since we are pulling the CPU out anyways) is any bent pins. The pins are what make contact between the CPU and MOBO that allows the transfer of the data. Even just 1 bent pin can cause a myriad of issues.
I'm not thinking that there will be, but it doesn't hurt to check since we are pulling it out.
the arrows do align in the top left corner
good spread with that thermal paste. Almost looks like the top was tightened down a little more than the bottom. You'll want to make sure it's tightened down evenly across the whole IHS. To do so, when you start to install the cooler, you want to tighten down each bolt in increments in a cross/star pattern
there appears to be some thermal paste on the green part of the cpu
ill keep this in mind when im putting it back on
thank you!
not a problem. let's see what your pins look like 🙂
oh, you'll want to get the thermal paste off before you pull the CPU out.
Don't have to, but will negate any chance of getting thermal paste on the pins or in the socket.
I should have stated that earlier. My apologies.
youre good, are you talking ab the paste on the face or the paste on the side where i mentioned?
to clean off any paste i plan on using 91% isopropyl alc and q tips
just on the face is fine. The thermal paste is non conductive so it won't hurt anything by being on the PCB
Good idea. Just make sure you take a microfiber cloth and wipe the face afterwards as to get any remaining residue/pieces of the swab off the IHS
the 91% will leave a film of sorts.
Awesome. Looks good.
perfect
Now just carefully put it back in, making sure it's seated in place.
lock the ILM and apply thermal paste. Then mount your cooler.
a very important part is making sure your cooler heatsink has even contact across the whole IHS of the CPU
You don't have to wrench down on the bolts, but you don't want them to not be tight enough as well.
is it ok to kee the thermal paste that i had on there? i thought it was a pretty even spread but if you think i should absolutely reapply i def can
It'll be best to reapply
ok ill work on that then
do you recommend taking the paste off of the cooler as well?
ok ill work on that now for a bit
While it had a good spread on the IHS, there was a spot of thicker paste towards the bottom. While it seems it could have been a good spread, since you pulled the cooler off, it displaced a good bit of the paste so without reapplying paste, there will be spots that won't have as good of coverage as it could if you reapply.
It's ok to use a bit more than you think is enough. You can never have to much paste (within reason), but having to little paste is a bad thing for sure.
Got it ill try and apply the right amount
A cloth used for cleaning glasses isnt something like a microfiber cloth right?
I use microfiber cloth to clean my lenses
so, you could honestly just squeeze a line from one corner to the other making an X on the IHS
It is a microfiber yes
It's what I use.
I mean I wouldn't waste one on thermal paste
They are so cheap, but he's not really using it to wipe up the paste.
oh
Cheap and high quality
More so to get the film and hairs left by the 91% and qtips
ah
Oh i was ab to use it to wipe the paste
I didnt do it yet haha
lol
Honestly, I use a papertowel with 91% to wipe up my thermal paste
Yeah it's a waste to use it to wipe paste
ok cool ill do that. i have a bunch of q tips but thatd take me a while
it's quick and easy, and then just a microfiber to tidy up the rest
ok will do thanks guys
I only overdo it when I'm selling the cpu
Usually I just wipe it with tissues and reapply
I don't recommend tissues tho
yeah, atm we are trying to troubleshoot a nonboot PC so trying to make sure everything is 100% kosher to rule out anything that could cause potential issues.
removing paste off both cooler and cpu right?
Yes
would be ideal.
thank you
How'd you manage that?
ok still a bit on there, some of the sides. almost afraid of trying to get the paste on the sides bc i dont want to touch the actual cpu board
That'll be good enough. Go ahead and just squeeze a couple lines of paste I marked in this pic.
Before i do should i use the microfiber cloth on this?
That'll give you adequate coverage and not take up a super large amount of time
Nah, You can, but at this point I think getting all the thermal paste off is just uneeded time spent for this troubleshooting.
Got it, ill apply the paste then
Ideally that's what I would do, but I'm more wanting to get your PC up and running.
I'm also OCD as heck.
glad you answered my call for help then, this is where the OCD could become an asset haha
any adjustments before i mount the cooler back on? id think im only applying paste to the cpu?
You also caught me on a day where I'm at my PC. In the last 6 months or so I've been absent from the server 98% of the time.
will do
the smaller dots only need a little paste
put a bit more where the bigger dots are
Might be overkill on the paste.. but better to be safe than sorry.
Yeah no worries. i did just use all of the thermal paste so i did what i could for the time being
No problem. It'll be enough. Go ahead and put your cooler back on.
How tight should i be screwing the cooler onto the mount?
like firm but not tight where i have to really force the wrench right
just passed firm.
just make sure you do each screw in increments.
so top right screw 3 turns -> bottom left screw 3 turns -> top left screw 3 turns -> bottom right screw 3 turns , then rinse and repeat until tightened.
Yep did exactly that
turn the pc on?
Send it bb
haha alrighty one min
i can connect 2 of my fans to the fan splitter cord and then connect that to the cpu_fan port in gray right?
Yes
Also, on the lower left in the image where my F Panel cable is, those pins to the right dont need to be filled do they?
the orange and the purple in the bottom left, below the CMOS?
Everything looks good. If the F panel connector was plugged in wrong, your power button wouldn't do anything.
Haha, dealt w that last night😂😂😂 i was sticking that into the COM port
Ok just plugged the gpu you and everything, double checked the cords
Red LED on for DRAM
Wait
Wr got it
Lets go
It booted?
That means you are now on your way into BIOS and can install windows
Lets goo wow
what a relief ive heen working at this for a while
Do you know what that is asking me on my screen by chance?
i didnt, i bought it new
Yeah you can press DEL on your keeb
Press Del or press the N key?
@bronze oasis Thank you for allowing me to refresh my memory on troubleshooting. I hope you have fun with your new PC and congratulations on your first successful build.
Press DEL key
Absolutely and thanks for taking a large chunk out of your day to help me out when i sent the message. glad you were on at the right time
also the del key is not working, and i do have the keyboard plugged in
Try pressing N
I guess you could press Y as well.
Ill grab another keeb rq
It really doesn't matter since new CPU/Mobo
All display port cables I find on Amazon says 2k at 144hz. My monitor goes up to 1440p and 175hz so is it normal for all to say that or should I still try and search for one goes up to 175hz
Did your monitor not come with a DP cable?
Hasn't come yet
The cable or the monitor?
Monitor
IF bought from a retailer then just use the DP that it comes with
I always see people using HDMI and ur supposed to use display I heard. So I assumed u would have to buy seperate
I bought on Amazon I can find link tho rq
I hardly see anyone using HDMI anymore.
As long as the DP cable is 1.4, you'll be fine.
MSI’s G272QPF gaming monitor delivers you an elevated gaming experience. The monitor comes equipped with a 27" Rapid IPS display that supports up to 2560 x 1440 (QHD) resolution. The G272QPF can operate at up to a 170Hz refresh rate and 1ms (GTG) response time. The G272QPF is NVIDIA G-Sync compat...
This is the exact obe
One
That'll come with an adequate DP cable. No need to buy another one.
Ok thx
My PC will be on the desk so I don't have to worry about it being too shott
Short
Thx
Do u know if the monitor I linked coes with a 1.4?
i just pressed Y and the fans are spinning up more quickly, and the screen just shut off.
Looking at the specs, it comes with 1.2a.
Let it sit for a little and see what it does
Ok, i do have a red LED on the CPU still
You'll want to buy a DP 1.4 cable. Disregard this. A 1.4 cable won't do you any good as the port on the monitor is limited to 1.2a
Hm. It posted so the CPU shouldn't be a problem.
Allow it to hang out for a little and see what it does.
Ok will do
weird, both keyboards i tried werent allowing me to select delete for whatever reason
That is odd. In my experience with PCs though is that they aren't perfect and it seems no matter what, there will be some sort of weirdness in one form or another.
I did read someone else’s experience with a pc build, after they selected yes they were able to install windows after some time
My fans are working pretty hard rn so we’ll see
You can turn the PC off and boot it up again
Ok ill try that
go ahead and select Y this time
Go ahead and select Y and see if it makes your PC go into overdrive again.
If it does then select N
oh damn i got a diff screen
yea this is what ive been looking for hahahaha
thank you
Good
So is 1.2a rlly that bad
No, 99% of people can't discern the difference between 144hz and 170hz.
it's so miniscule of an increase. Unlike 30 to 60 and 60 to 120.
Is this one good?
Thx I know difference is rlly low but still if possibly would just spend like 10 dollars to get slightly better performance
This won't do you any good. Your monitor is locked at DP 1.2a. It can't utilize DP 1.4
Ohh I see now. So is there a better 1,2 cable I could buy since my monitor goes up to 175 or do u think my current cable that comes with monitor would be able to go up to 175
Sorry just a bit confusing
I understand the confusion. Essentially the monitor is capable of displaying up to 175hz, however they only provided a lesser DP port which means that you won't be able to utilize that extra 31hz. It's MSI being MSI in that they market it as capable of doing more than they provide so they can sell it at a higher cost. My advice to you, would be to return it as soon as you get it and get a monitor that supports 1.4 or 2.0
Do u personally notice a big difference between 150 and 170?
I know u said the average person and my last PC was terrible so I know I won't know the difference but just curious
All other monitors I have seen under the budget seem to be worse
Ngl I'ma have to deal with this one just curious
I do not. I barely notice a difference between 120 and 144.
Really the only games that benefit from 120+ fps are competitive first person shooters where a higher FPS reduces latency. With that, most competitive gamers would be gaming at low settings 1080p/720p to achieve as high fps as they can.
Ok thx. As I said my last PC was a all in one pc that I had to physically go Into valorsnt folder to lower resolution lol so no way I'ma notice the difference. Thx a lot
No problem. When I first got into the PC scene, I initially went with the highest hz monitor I could afford. After roughly a year or so, I realized that anything above 80-90 is just icing on a cake.
ok, ive downloaded the Microsoft media installation guide, and didnt see it on my bios, even though the USB was in the computer. I loaded up BIOS, then inserted the USB afterwards.
I then decided to restart my computer which pulls up this:
and for whatever reason im not able to select options here although they are highlighted
Ive pressed the enter key, Y key, escape key. not sure what exactly is going on here
Clicking doesn't do anything?
Click to enter BIOS
hm ok
I did clear the CMOS
so go ahead and remove the USB and restart the PC
ok
Sometimes i restart my computer and it cant even find my peripherals and monitor
Yeah that'll be a drivers thing
BIOS just has basic drivers to allow a mouse and keeb
didnt know that, thank you
You've restarted your PC?
Do you have another USB drive?
yep
is there a certain slot i should put the USB into?
You turn the PC off and then you Turn it on. Then what happens?
Ok i just turned it off, ill wait like a min
ok, i switch the PSU power on, and then press the power button on the front of the case to turn the computer on
correct
Are you able to select "Enter Bios"?
I can click it, it doesnt do anything
even pressing enter?
Correct, nothing changes
What if you try on the second option?
The Load Optimized Defaults then reboot?
yes
Ok, You mentioned you've cleared CMOS?
Correct
Go ahead and turn PC off, flip the switch on the PSU to off.
Done!
Now press your PC power button 10 or so times.
Pressing it once will turn it on, should i continue to press it afterwards?
or ig itll flip flop
It shouldn't turn on if you have the PSU flipped to off.
Ok, i pressed it 10 times, not sure about how quickly i should press it
Doesn't matter really. Just repeatedly making the PC make the connection that will discharge the electricity.
Now
How have you been clearing your CMOS?
I remove the physical coin battery from the motherboard
Ok, we are going to do it differently.
@bronze oasis Locate these 2 prongs on your mobo
i think i see then
take a screwdriver and make contact with both of those pins at the same time for roughly 10 seconds.
Alright, All the steps I have outlined since I had you turn your PC off is how you reset your CMOS. Removing the battery works, but you have to wait a while for it to actually work. This way is faster and you don't have to remove anything.
Go ahead and turn your PC back on and see where that gets us.
Nice i will definitely do that from now on
It may have to retrain your RAM so let it sit for a bit.
should i install the USB?
Not yet
ok thank you
We gotta get you into bios and change a thing or 2 depending on the BIOS default.
Ok just started it up, ill let it run for like 20 min?
Shouldn't take that long (20 min is a maximum). Just keep an eye on it.
No, it needs to train your RAM before it can post. Essentially it's trying to figure out the best configuration for your RAM to perform optimally.
Got it, thanks and thanks again for helping out i really appreciate it
Then it'll check if you have a GPU connected and if so is it working correctly. Then it'll post.
Ill keep an eye out for that
Np, I'm just having a super lazy day. I'm about to get verrry busy at work and won't have much time to relax so I'm soaking it up atm
Me too😂😂😂😂
Not busy at work but trying to get as much help as i can from you
so when i get to the boot screen again, i probably shouldnt just switch the power off uf i dont see the USB right? i probably should have done a save and exit?
Generally you'll want to save and exit if you mess with anything in the BIOS. Although shouldn't do to much in BIOS if you A) don't know what you are doing and B) don't have help from someone who does.
Without BIOS, your PC can't run. If you mess something up, you can go as far as ruining the hardware in your PC at worst or requiring a clear CMOS at best.
BIOS is also known as UEFI nowadays. They aren't quite the same thing, but essentially have the same function in terms of being what allows the PC to run.
UEFI allows more customizability.
Is.updating bios as simple as going in n just pressing update it wtv
Id be shocked if i needed new hardware, i didnt change anything at all
Last time.i went on bios everything looked confusing and like hell n really don't feel like messing in there but I now I'ma.have to update bios so just curious
How come you believe you have to update your BIOS?
I think someone said if my motherboard isn't completely new or came out with new drivers or wtv that i would need to
Smth like that
The only time you should upgrade your BIOS is if you NEED to.
If you are having problems with your PC that only a BIOS update could resolve. Otherwise it is recommended not to update your BIOS.
Thank the Lord😭
Whoever is giving you info like that.. Stop taking advice from them. They will end up helping you harm your PC.
My motherboard I am waiting for is a a620m pro rs wifi m thought I was gonna have to change stuff
They r well known in here I prob just misunderstood there stuff
So besides getting Microsoft after building PC I Just need to download GPU n motherboard drivers right?
Hm. Then there may be a NEED to update the BIOS.
If someone that is well known in here has given you that advice, then I retract my previous statement.
This is convo
Ah yes for sure listen to Fal'Cie
It's not a need
😔
😀
But you can update to apply the patch
No thx lol,😭
xD
These vulns are only abused in edge cases
