#peripherals-and-displays
1 messages · Page 217 of 1
yeah 🙂 lol my dad wants one with a number pad cause the games he plays invlove clickeing numbers 1-9 and he doesnt want to do that on the kayboard
If it's an MMO, just get a 2 button mouse, Assign the buttons to Shift and Alt, and then you get more button options than just the standard keyboard 1 through = layout of most MMOs
🧠
Modifier keys are big brain for MMOs
I only press 1 through 6 on my actual keyboard when playing SW:ToR, and then use Shift + 1 through 6 for more abilities, and Alt + 1 through 6 for even MORE abilities.
keychron c2 or glorious gmmk full
The C2 for me unless you want RGB but the C2 has USB-C.
reg gmmk is garb
GMMK is garbage in general.
but reg gmmk is on a whole dif level
C2
If you wanna upgrade then get a K8
Actually I don’t know if that is fullsize
It should be though
is there a barebones c2 or nah?
ill get it anyway but just wanted to know
also
i heard ink black v2’s have bad quality control and could be scratchy
so should i just get v1’s
or should lubing them fix it
ink qc in general is bad and finding v1s isnt really an easy thing to do
Ink v2 are a hard pass unless you replace the stem iirc
And that basically brings them to $1 each
could test your luck with gateron cap v2
not too many reviews last time i checked if not any
Meh
what should i get instead?
If you want the deeper sound then first of all get some foam and a plate made of POM or PC
For smoothness get Durock L linears which are functionally the same as Alpacas but in stock
For a slightly deeper sound get Lavenders or Mauves
any clearish housing switches?
jus get some ks3s
there is some jwicks in gb phase rn iirc
aqua kings are trash
hyped up on tiktok
for no reason lol
Aqua kings have a LOT of problems
what if i break in, lube, and film ink black v2’s?
would that fix the scratchiness?
i want a good clear switch
i just wanna know if there are any problems with it
price is not a problem
most of the issues with aqua kings can be solved by using them and buying a few extra iirc (overlubed from factory so return can be sluggish, goes away with relubing or using them, and some have tolerance issues so just buy a few extra). don't know if they still have some mold issues, but if money doesn't really matter they're decent if you clean+tune them
Aqua kings make that weird clicky sound if you don’t press straight down
And while that’s not an issue for regular use it’s just odd since there are no other switches I’m aware of that do this
i mean just look up sound tests
alr
and reviews but take them with a grain of salt
im pickin out an endgame switch
i mean thats like saying u want an endgame keyboard
wait theyre tactile..
alr
Overpriced but also translucent and pretty so it’s a style/flex
Also when did I get VIP lmao
Nice
If you need to drag click for Minecraft or something it’s a good choice
alr
What games do you play?
you could also do uhmwpe stem+clearish housing
Minecraft, gta, red dead, cyberpunk, enlisted, Fortnite, war thunder, valorant
alright quick question
thinking of getting a new microphone
was thinking of getting a mv7, or a rode podmic with a audio interface
the thing is
the mv7 is i think 250$ usd
and it's a pretty good microphone for usb
kk, i see what other people say
i would go wired since wires arent a big deal for me but its preference
ill just get a mouse bungee then
overpriced
if you want clear top, imo best option is gazzew
mv7 is p nice but unless you have like 0 space for an interface or dont wanna deal with it id go with a separate mice and interface
clear bottoms?
clear top only
dang
bruh i gotta look up all these acronyms
Why would you want a clear bottom?
the led is underneath the switch on a c2 iirc
idk then
how does it work then?
are the stock stabilizers good on the c2 or should i get some durock stabs?
youll still get rgb with a black bottom housing
oh well that changes a lot of things
imma still get tealios v2’s tho
are there any better alternatives?
most linears now are equally smooth imo
i wouldnt cash out unless youre chasing a specific sound sig
but the c2 isnt really good acoustically so it doesnt really matter
imma get L7’s
there are a bunch of durock linears that showed up when i searched on Amazon
l7s on amazon are a scam
what should i get then?
this seller seems trustworthy
l2 l3 l4 l7 this stuff seems confusing
is it just colors?
imma get l2 smokey teal
they look cool
colors and weight
7.50 for 10 switches is a scam ngl
specially for budget linears
if youre ordering from amazon, id go with akko switches
what should i upgrade to get better recording?
recording what
yo for a go xlr/go xlr mini with the faders does it effect what you are hearing or like a stream? or could it be either or depending on how you set it up?
it affects the volume of what youre hearing or what the stream is hearing depending on how you set it up such as if the first fader is your mic you can raise or lower it to increase your volume to the stream for your mic
just depends how you set it up, people tend to have multiple tracks such as like spotify, game volume, headset volume, stream volume, etc.

get some cheap $8-15 iem then save for aria or just get somethign like a bl03/c10?
Reason: Bad word usage
Reason: Too many infractions
hm
Hey @rigid valve the Airpods Pro are 185 on Woot if you were still wanting them
👀👀
ehhh
:p
yea I just wanna use it for gaming since I like turning down audio or turning up audio a lot and I think it would be cool and its only like 50 bucks more then I was originally going to do with the interface
bruh
hey lance would you happen to know a interface that pushs out around 70db of gain under 150? I feel like I remember seeing something that could and forgot the name of it
0:03 Gateron G Phantom Red
1:42 Gateron G Phantom Brown
3:21 Gateron G Phantom Blue
Keychron Q1 will launch on August 24th at 9:00 AM EST.
The early bird price will be 169$ for the basic kit (include the phantom switches and ABS keycaps).
Subscribe at this link to get notified when it is released to pre-order: https://www.keychron.com/pages/...
sound pretty crisp
nothing crazy but def better than the pro imo
the sound test glorious gave us b4 launch was muted asf
the board is 100 percent muted
i heard sound tests for the new switches theyre releasing on the 11th theyre pretty nice i wonder how they feel tho
for the price, its an easy skip for me
unless the gmmk pro is bottlenecking it big time
50 bucks for 90 switches or so
i mean
could be worse
thats a normal .55 isnt it
25 for 36 switches
youre gonna have to buy 3 packs for 90
yea i see im bad at math lmfao
luckily
i only ever buy 70ish anyway so its ok if ur not going for tht much
ignoring their marketing ofc
dont know much about audio interfaces out there but the elgato wave xlr is about $160 on their site and can handle a shure sm7b if thats what you need it for.
The motu m2 and focusrite 2i2 have low noise levels in their preamps, the elgato i have not see review for yet so idk
And i am sad, now whenever i boot windows on pc the audio is horrible so now i boot linux fior music
could someone explain what the difference between this: https://www.amazon.ca/Akko-Switches-Compatible-Mechanical-Keyboard/dp/B08XX7TTZB/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=akko+rose+red&qid=1628456316&sr=8-4 and this: https://www.amazon.ca/EPOMAKER-Custom-Linear-Switch-Pieces/dp/B092Q7CG9J/ref=sr_1_10?crid=21SY06LPMT0UV&dchild=1&keywords=akko%2Bepomaker&qid=1628456256&sprefix=Akko%2Bep%2Caps%2C184&sr=8-10&th=1 is?
It looks like Epomaker carries the Akko CS v2 which are the Purple, other Red, and White
also slightly more expensive
does it say v2?
the colours on the seconid is a lot brighter
but it has less reviews
wdym? the 3 new?
sorry which link?
ah r they better than the v1s? or any good at all
the purple dark red and white are new
yep
i mean im sure some ppl will say tht
i think the change is good but probably minimal
for it to be called better
20 cad for 45 switches
which ones are u looking at
yup small changes
idk man, switches in canada are 1. hard to find
- more expensive
it's prob either this or gat yellow tbh
^
also consider ktt roses or ktt kang whites
and gateron pro yellows
gateron pro yellows actually got some nice factory lube
pro yellows only from aliexpress/banggood and some asia vendors btw
all the switches we talked about are good options
just a matter of wats convenient time wise pricing etc.
70 cents unlubed and 1 dollar lubed i beleive
25 for 36 unlubed, 35 for 36 lubed
id want them unlubed tho but yea correct
id rather buy some less mainstream linear to try out
than spend 70 cents per switch on glorious switches
if i was trying to spend 70 cents per switch id get durcok poms
i dont need anymore switches just thought they are pretty okay considering glorious
i think after i build these 2 boards im done with the hobby unless im building one for someone
are durock poms and durock linears the same thing?
no, slightly different switches
alr
they both have pom stems tho
poms are more expensive sitting around 70 cents a switch, durock l series are like 55 cents
most switches have POM stems
which are better?
difference is the housing
as per some people
POMs are deeper and more muted
however slightly scratchier
ever so slightly
alr
nvm
im more of a full sized board guy
not that much customizability options
might get a tkl and a separate numpad
idk
you could still customize a full layout just matters wat board u have
i have a keychron c2
not bad
theres btter but
Boards are all over the place
alot of things change
But pricey
Ya, imagine 200$+ just for barebones
ur wallet will sting for a while
like a full set of brand tires is basically how much u can spend on a keyboard even the amount for a first car
Price of your computer.
Keyboards get weird and expensive quick
And the illusive endgame can never truly be obtained
Future will come to you
lmfao
You can't stop them
facts
look around kbdfans or smth
Wut no lol
Durock pom has full pom housing and "mystery blend" stem that seems to be uhmwpe as referred by some ppl but i'm not very sure
Durock L series is just your good 'ol jwk recolors that most of them sounds like any other jwk with the same housing blend (pc top, nylon bot, pom stem)
then there's someone calling a cardboard, plateless, handwired keyboard endgame and is actually acceptable as one
ah
i see you're referring to a very specific youtube video
Design and fab your own PCB, get the exact spacing and layout you want. Grab contacts, springs, stems, housing from different switches and bash them together. Lube them with tears and elbow grease. Write the firmware in straight assembly so you're sure you have the absolute fastest response time. Don't deal with any of those crappy USB communication chipsets, program PS/2 directly into your microcontroller. Slap a heat pipe from that microcontroller to your manually machined, solid brass case so you can overclock your microcontroller and get that much faster response times. Create an vacuum injection molding system yourself and make all the keycaps from your own custom blend of pbo to such precision that there is no key wobble whatsoever. When soldering the components together, don't use any old solder. Make your own alloy with gold mixed in for extra conductivity and extrude it into a fine gauge wire. The commercial solders only have cheap rosin cores, with imprecise amounts of rosin throughout the solder. You will only use the finest rosin designed for virtuoso cellists with gold dust embedded inside of it, giving you a better bond and a deep, rich, sound. But even then it isn't enough, you must add heft. Carve out channels in your brass case and pour molten iridium into them, bringing you the heft and a solid thok that only comes from a keyboard that ways more than a small child. Create your plate from a Damascus style mix of brass and spring steel for a subtle ring that slightly varies from key to key and press to press, allowing you to play symphonies on your keyboard as you type. Then, and only then, do you reach the endgame
Proceed to spill your coffee on it the next morning
lol
sounds about right
lubing it with tears of that board not being endgame
until a new switch comes out then you rip apart ur board again just to accommodate that switches sound sig to the board better lol
the future comes to u 
i saw a very interesting video that i might do to my membrane keyboard i first used
cherry style? alps? old school
and basically its tuning it to feel and sound pretty nice but thts if im really bored
its an old razer keboard full size
time for hexagonal switches
LMFAO
i think you'd like riskable's stuff he works on https://twitter.com/riskable?lang=en
mfw ping is part of the pros
dang im jealous, you can spend 8k on a keyboard?
kekw
that's not even remotely enough for some boards
if i had 10k and was looking for a 356cl not many people would sell to me cause nobody knows me
lmao
is it just because its such a rare board or something? the geekhack i found from 2009 says it was 300
I cri
it's the most og of any otd and basically the pinnacle of any boards if you ask collectors https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=99876.0 https://deskthority.net/viewtopic.php?t=255 https://geekhack.org/index.php?topic=78597.0 https://www.reddit.com/r/MechanicalKeyboards/comments/jxi254/how_geekhack_reacted_to_some_of_the_earliest/
what is an otd
they dont look too bad for the first custom keebs
look like your average aluminum tkl
is otd a company
it stands for on the desk, a old korean forum (https://otd.kr/), and a few people on there decided to make a custom keyboard when there were basically 1 or 2 other ones that existed. Eungsam made most of them and very thoroughly tested/protoyped them to make them as perfect as he could get and then ran a gb at cost to the forum users. people pay so much money and prize them so highly because how influential they were (mainly 356cl, first gasket mount boards a decade ago), the history from late 2000's to mid 2010's, and how rare they were
read the links
yeah i read them thats kinda cool but honestly kinda like those weird collectors items
like people who buy lego sets for thousands cause they are old
it's short for classic so that should tell you
Omg
Classic has an L and an I but ik what it trynna say
oh yeah forgot it has an i but yeah L
Anybody got recommendations on how to properly clean a monitor?
well first you clean it
Yeah, but is there a solution you put on a microfiber or just damp a bit of it?
Anyone know what headset l should get eventually for later this year when l get my pc? As of right now I’ll just be gaming
what budget
Probably around $150 at most
i would get
Drop Pc37X
skiptrace would say Q2U and KSC75 or KSC75X which is also an option'
Ok thank you
Is the beyerdynamic good? Just wondering cause l saw a lot of people use it
some beyer are good
Would you recommend them for me?
the beyerdynamics that people generally recomend are the DT880/990 and the DT1990 Pro
most beyer has a lot of treble so people tend to stray away
Would you recommend me getting a mic separately or built in to the headset?
if you can make it work then separately
for $150 you could get Q2U and UR40/Porta Pro/KSC75/Creative Aurvana L!VE SE
or fifine and K361
What about both for $180?
I'm a fan of my HyperX Cloud 2s, just one thing to note is whenever you get a new game the first move will be to turn down the sound in the options cuz they run loud. For reference I keep my main PC volume around 18% and they still open up loud
But besides that the quality is pretty good and they're affordable
Thx for the recommendation!
I wouldn't buy a headset, especially not HyperX Cloud 2's
At ~150 USD, you have a lot of good Headphone options that will slay the Headset market.
And, you can get a cheap USB Mic that will also be better than a Headset too.
https://www.amazon.com/AKG-Pro-Audio-Headphones-K361/dp/B07X2LQRCF/ref=sr_1_2 AKG K361's are an excellent Closed Back pair of headphones for a little over 100 dollars, which leaves you a little less than 50 bucks for a mic.
https://www.amazon.com/Antlion-Audio-Attachable-Noise-Cancelling-Playstation/dp/B07YN25KWN/ref=sr_1_5 For a little shy of 50 dollars, you can get the ModMic Uni, which will absolutely destroy any Headset Mic out there.
Oh, and I almost forgot the most key thing in the whole setup.
DO NOT use Motherboard Audio.
It sucks, doesn't output a clean audio signal, and just is terrible compared to a cheap USB-C to 3.5mm DAC from Apple that is normally used with iPads.
https://www.amazon.com/Apple-USB-C-Headphone-Jack-Adapter/dp/B07K25P3N1/ref=sr_1_3 This little wonder, will give you a clean, crisp, and excellent audio signal free from any internal signalling noise that your PC has due to the GPU that gives of a LOT of Electrical interference.
Thank you so much
hey guys
just got a new mic and works like a charm, i was going to give my headphones back to my brother and use just some cheapy apple earphones but when i plug the 3.5mm jack into my case its not picking up my earbuds and i cant hear sound
would anyone know how to fix it
do yall have any recommendations for good 67g linear switches?
or are my durock l linears just fine
how much do you wanna spend
200
on switches alone ?
And how many switches?
Reason: Bad word usage
like vintage blacks or smthn
hyperglide/retooled mx blacks
springswap, film, break-in, lube
gazzew Boba LTs if that ever comes out yet
Durock POMs
KTT Kang Whites/Strawberry/Roses
SP-Star Meteor Whites but i haven't seen a seller that restocked those even though that's the nicest one
SP-Star Polaris Grey
is there any way i can buy stems induvidually?
Mechmarket
Gazzew sells his stuff individually as well
can i buy pom stems and put them in a tangy?
you can but its not worth it
dang
durock l7 or tealios v2
ive narrowed it down to those 2
i would get alpacas but l7’s are just a recolor and l7’s look better
How
A speed silver is 27c
Long pole pom stem
I’m assuming he’s talking about creamsicles
And those are just kailh stems in tangie housing
literally scroll up theres nothing to assume
he wants to swap the stem witha pom stem
Just any POM stem in tangy not worth
Long stem def worth
thats what im trying to say
He probably meant Durock POM from the lack of general understanding of switches
Which is a long stem
So it’s good
i see
Long pole v lit
Someone I know made milky speed silvers
Speed silver stem in gat milky housing
silkies
Kailh gateron milky speed silvers sounds better 😎
Hmmmmmmm
i know what i said
anyways
tf is a long stem
nvm imma just get milky yellows this is too complicated for me
ill buy a bunch of switches once im more experienced
i have a keychron c2
premium switches wouldn’t sound that good in my board anyway
stems wiht long poles, usually bottomout with it. aso caled pole bottomout in switches
the ones with less than 4mm total travel is pole bottomout/long pole
i suggest getting into some soldering tools and get cannonkeys' stacked boards
can solder millmax hotswap sockets innit
it does
its 5 pin hotswap
Keychron C2 Full Size Wired Mechanical Keyboard for Mac, Hot-swappable, Gateron Red Switch, RGB Backlight, 104 Keys ABS keycaps Gaming Keyboard for Windows, USB-C Type-C Braid Cable https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08CN9LVT4/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_glt_fabc_X623K9Z96C18R2PSJ56D?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
tf u mean
dafu1q
it says hot swappable
read this porperly, thank you
i replied to u saying u havee c2, just suggested you these board since it doesn't hurt the budget and looks nice
could u send a link?
most likely better shipping fees than i can get ifi ordered in ck 
theres one i rlly want on kbdfans but i have to be on a waitlist
theey dont have 1800 yet, but some do alr suggest it to add it into their lineup
what is it
67lite?
d60lite?
kbdfans odin was the one
drop kleebs are pretty mediocre
should i get this instead of the c2?
especially for the price
i wouldnt
what is your budget for the entire keeb
max 400
could you live with 75% plus num pad?
nope
you need all those weird insert , and whatever keys?
you could grab a tofu96 whenver they go back instock
do it got rgb tho
TKC 1800 unfortunately its made by tkc
nvm tofu 96 is soldered version
can you not just get something and a numpad
and no rgb
i was thinking frog but thats out of budget
i mean theres like scarlet extras/milan restock + numpad
honestly could just get a 75 percent layout and grab a numpad
lmfao
i see
welp ur very limited to a full layout without getting into a groupbuy
and considering u want rgb too
good luck
get on odin waitlist maybe
nvm its 3 pin
if you want somehting you can buy right now, c2 or k4. If you can wait, get a odin, or a tkl + numpad.
87 is normal f12 88 is f13
wkl f13 tkl would be like 86 or something unless thats not how it works
they went oos again 😦
bruh
i knoww
yea and i signed up for noti since i was have my email pulled up
smh
my brand new rig setup is purple pink themed so otco went out rq
i donnt want to buy keycaps before i bought a board is the only problem
Interesting
The nice thing with caps is that they’re much less preference than the other parts of a keeb
All you need to sort out is colors and profile
tru
and abs vs pbt ig
i could def go for abs if it were light colors but
abs with dark colors seems like a nightmare
yeah im considering getting navy q1 and trying to decide if it would work well together
i think it would
or if i should just go black and be safe
i want to get an alice board but i dont see anything super appealing
https://pantheonlab.net/products/atlas65?variant=40470082748584 this checks all the boxes besides it being a weird shiny purple
M a g e n t a
M a Eys
its hotswap and has arrow keys and isnt going to destroy my wallet, if only it didnt look like that
gun metal wouldve been nicer
dichroic acrylic tho
BLUSUNS
it's ok
the kitting at least is better than the red sam kekekeke
thats what im saying
i didnt like the red sam
i wish gateron was selling their stablizer bars seperately
heard good things like u dont need to wire balance them
create keebs gonna make one soon
sam might run a alu version of the samice
lumos r2 in the works
hey guys, anyone know a good and cheap cherry MX keyboard
not necessarily cheap, as long as it's good
leopold mechs
yo idk what headset to get for my keyboard cuz i dont want background noise and my keyboard is very loud (razer huntsman TE). can anyone reccomend me some headsets. (i dont want to get a seperate mic)
You do want to get a separate mic though. Headset mics sound like absolute trash. Also, your keyboard is FAR from loud. The Huntsman TE comes with Razer Optical Red switches which are very far from loud. I would know, I own a Huntsman TE.
Why restrict yourself to Cherry MX switches?
Mk so what’s your budget
limiting switch choice, eef
I’m back to hunting switches lmao
I’m looking for a fairly light tactile switch (60-70g) that has a large sharp bump and a clear housing for LEDs
T1s lol
wait nvm that's not "light"
pewters?
also akko cs ocean blue/lavender purple - light to medium tactility
By light I mean within 60-70g spring
The durock T1s seem to be good I’ll look into them
How would they compare to Halo trues?
that's where most tactiles are in, heck that's even around the avg spring wight commonly preffered
don't have them
btw if you're gonna buy t1s, might consider dark amber t1s and jwk lagoon/obsidian
full nylon housing T1s
I have LEDs on my PCB so I’m looking for a clear housing
just the normal clear t1 then
also, the akkos have tinted top housings and led hole
the tinted top housing shouldn't interfere with most colors except white
most ppl i've asked said it's more on the sharper side
Does anybody know how I can make my spacebar sound better
mod stabs lol
straighten wire, baidaid mod (if platemount and housing is wobbly when shaken in plate), new, thicc keycaps
Wich wire?
How can I do the bandaid mod
You get some of that thin tape, I think it's fabric tape? and cut it really tiny to make the stabs wobble less.
can you take ur stabs out?
Just get browns 😎
not wrong
having a friend lube my browns excited to try them
does anyone know if tangerines (C^3) would fit in a GMMK? I wanna redo it but don’t wanna spend 90 bucks on them if i csnt use them
First of all
Why the hell are you spending $90 on tangies
That is HELLA overpriced
Second of all
If they don’t fit then it’s likely due to a pin number issue which you can easily fix with some flush cutters or nail clippers
Third of all
Tangies in a GMMK is super odd
You’re putting high-end linears in a mediocre at best kit
dont spend tht on tangies
if u already have the gmmk you could go for switches just as smooth for cheaper
you can do any jwk/durock linear, zeal tealios, gateron inks, alpacas, etc.
Tealios won’t be cheaper but yeah
Did he really say tealios
Bruh
They’re 1.10 per switch
Gat inks are 70c/switch too
Alpacas are a jwk linear
There’s really no good rec in there I wouldn’t put any of those in a gmmk
Just get milky top yellows or ktt
regardless those are all close to tangies lmfao
u wouldnt but unfrotunately he has a gmmk lol
if he wants ato put a premium switch in there let em
Hey. So I wanted to know if anyone knows a desktop app where I can control my microphone and computer audio at the same time
I know windows has the sounds settings but I wanted to know if any program has something all in one
hmm Audacity?
let me look
Welcome to Audacity
Audacity® is free, open source, cross-platform audio software for multi-track recording and editing.
Audacity is available for Windows®, Mac®, GNU/Linux® and other operating systems. Check our feature list, Wiki and Forum.
Download Audacity 2.1.3
Mar 17th, 2017: Audacity
check that out
might be what you're looking for
That's more like recording idk if it changes your actual input volume
Behringer has a program called X-Touch
Oh really?
not familiar with it at all
Find and download product manuals and drivers for your Behringer product here.
seems like they have a lot of applications
there used to be this program called fruityloops but I think that was more like audacity for mixing
looks like Numark's app needs an activation code that comes with a purchase
Sound Forge was a good one back in the day. They had ACID music
but I think that's once again more for mixing
I just need a program that can control my input volume and output volume
I know Windows has that in the sound settings but I want a program that can do it
Virtual DJ has a home version for free
With over 100,000,000 downloads, VirtualDJ packs the most advanced DJ technology. Both perfect to start DJing, and perfect for advanced pro DJs.
again looking like Mixer focused
let me look at the online manual a bit here
Yeah that's not really a volume control app per say
voicemeeter?
Let me try the Voicemeeter
This seems entirely focused on using multiple microphones on a single computer
and controlling levels
I think
Voicemeeter is a free mixer application that allows you to connect multiple USB microphones to one PC. All you will have to do is select Voicemeeter as your input and output in DAW’s audio hardware settings. However, there is one thing you should know. This app will record the sound from all the microphones into one track.
This means you will have limited flexibility during editing. On the bright side, you can put all your USB mics to work and record with friends. But, make sure that your mics are on similar volume such that one does not overshadow the other. Otherwise, your post-production may become a lot more complicated.
That said, let us walk you through how to connect multiple USB mics with Voicemeeter.+
My k6 just came in and the stabs feel mushy. The switch itself sounds fine but the stab just seems messed up.
Is that just bc it’s new?
Which switch is it
Gat brown
Which key is it
The keys with stabs
probably too much lube
Yeah it’s because it’s new
They might’ve plugged the housing for smoothness
It should go away with use
It’s also harder to press
Finger strength issue
And the key cap doesn’t seem to go into the stabs easily at least not as easy as the other keys
And once it goes on
are they keycaps the board came with or that u swapped out
I need to press it harder to make it go I. Fully
Stock
Yeah just use the board for a while
could also just take the keycap off and check
Yeah
Yea I did nothing is wrong but it just feels mushy
The other keys are perfectly fine
He probably did hence how he knew it’s harder to put back on
it's just clip in stabs, don't need to take it apart to take the stabs out
Only stabs
yeah itll go away after you use it awhile
^
Ok
if it doesnt come back to us lmfao
Should I send a sound recording just in case?
I mean to check the stabs after you take it out yaknow
nah u dont need to
u can if u want
I’m like 90% sure that it’s just because the board is fresh
Alright the.
Ok
that depends on how much you use it
Probably a couple weeks of constant use depending on how much you use it
I guess I’m sitting here and clicking the switch for a month straight 
lmfao
Thank you all
I was worried
Also smt else I noticed is that
The key cap isn’t going onto the switch all the way
For all keys
Unless I press on it with a lot of force
I was saying to just take it out but breaking it in might help
A lot more relative to the force it takes to put it into place
Ah ok
How do you take the stab out btw?
You gotta desolder
Wut
no
So mr1111 desoldered it
Yup
with the switch out and the keycap off
press this lever thing forwards
and push a bit
should've came with a switch puller
Ok
like the metal thing
what you do is get the prongs into what would be the front and back of the switch
South and north
K
you might be able to see the little tabs
but there's little tabs you push in, north and south sides of the switch
and then you pull the switch out
Is there a tab?
Cause I feel like it doesn’t fit
That top part has some sort of thing in the middle
And same with the bottom
Kinda hard to get it with just one hand but example
Uh your switch doesn’t have that middle thing blocking it 😅
you might need to take the keycaps next to it off to make it easier to get the thing in
K
also, wdym middle thing
push this in
Yea
the screw under it doesn't touch it
Ok
But it’s kinda hard for the space key since the case is blocking it kinda
OHHHH I GOT IT
Yes
Why is there only 2 pins?
3 pins, there's that plastic leg thing
i'll try to make example vid
Kay Ty
A bit hard to do, but you do this to both sides and them it comes off as shown, I already did the right side before vid
Ignore the clicking sound, that was just my nails slipping off the stab
Ah ok
I don’t have smt like that atm
Imma find one later
Thanks for the help!
I’m scared to put the switch back on tho….
should be fairly simple
but also, anything small can push that back, smol screwdriver would just be the simpliest
heck, you might be able to use your finger to push the tab thingy back
You're welcome.
It’s sort of pointless lol
Esp with linears
It’s not like he wants a tactile with a certain type of bump
buying a linear for more than like 55 cents doesnt make too much sense to me, considering stuff like sp star and tescee. Only exception i could see is a frankenswitch or a switch to match a color scheme
i mean it may be pointless but its his money
plus this whole hobby is pointless you can realistically do watever u want and get away with it
Yeah but if that was the logic for everything then why would we give people advice in the first place
cause its just that, advice. you dont have to follow it lol
that's kinda misleading to newbies
i guess
theres certain methods u should follow yes, but there isnt a right or wrong switch you should be putting into a mediocre at best kit. lol
you just tell ppl to not do wrong buy with wrong desicion kek
it's fine to give your own advice/suggestion (even if it's inherently bad/very outdated)
mood
That said, why would you want a linear anyway?
coz smooth
and sound, i guess
well, tactile has both bumb/feel and sound so there's that
Sound?
because it doesnt have a bump
yea lmao thats like, 1st or 2nd most important part of the keeb
There are silent tactile switches
what
no i dont think you understnad what ophi is saying
that's not the point
Not all tactiles have a sound from the bump, some do some don't
the point mainly is the sound of the housing & stem made
There are also linear switches that make more tactile or even clicky type sounds
patiently waiting for clicky linears
that seems like leaf tick/spring crunch lol
There are some, I forget the name
The mechanism is pretty ingenious
oh yeah i remembered
There's technically a very small bump when the click is triggered, but it's supposedly basically impossible to feel
kailh speed bronze is a linear clicky
so a light linear, eh?
some don't even feel strong/med tactile bump coz they type fast/comfortable enough
some like linears because it's not as tiring as some tactiles
That's the actuation force more than anything else
hmmmmm
many tactiles has their actuation just after the tactile bump
This is the best sounding build I have ever done... this is also the cheapest board I own at $100US for the board minus switches and caps. I am so torn.
The flex cuts are taped with a narrow piece of washi tape (asok tape mod) which has drastically altered the sound of this board making it sound more like a full plate. The full 'tempest' mod ha...

imo from techie to keyboards is kind of a jump
since technicalities such as polling rate, actuation force/point, is not rly that much of a thing to consider, most are playable enough
it's more on mounting implementation, aesthetic, acoustics, and suffering patience
Actuation force isn't important? What are you smoking?
yes
and yes
the difference between 58 and 67 is like nothing
it really dont matter
That's like one of the most important parts of a switch
no
coffee beans yes it isn't
im assuming we are talking about in the context of gaming
deviations exists, and actuation point is not as accurate as bottomout weight/travel could be
A light switch vs a heavy switch is a huge difference
thats vague enough to always be true
plus you'd bottomout anyways
yes, but that's more on what you are more comfortable at
it's the bottomout force that's more necessary, not actuation
you could just throw 150g sprins in a linear and a tactile and see the difference
kek
changing spring weight affects tactility btw
Like you can't seriously be telling me that there's no important difference between a red and black switch
too heavy could dom the bump and make it a heavy linear 
LMFAO
i really wanna try it for memes
apparently its addicitng when u do it on a linear
aftermarket springs exist, and oh like i said it's better to measure in bottomout force than actuation force
Changing the spring effectively changes the switch
yes it does ofc
So why even bring it up
"bottomout force" is different than "actuation force" is what i mean
huh
what does that even mean
specifically on linears it doesnt change much
its honestly not hard to get used to extra force
it really sint
at all
u can still call it a mx black if u change its springs (becasue you should coz cherry springs are intherently bad lololol)
tbh this seems like a useless argument
If I take a "black" switch and put the switches from a red switch in it, it's basically just a red switch at that point
huh
coz we're looking on very different perspectives, which hinders
if you only use the color for weight and switch type comparison method then sure
but switches are far vaster than that
and once you discover that
spring weight becomes nigh irrelevant
A cherry MX red and black use the same stem and leaf as far as I remember
basically, yes, though you can still call it the same name since it still looks like one, in the realm of custom keyboards spring weight is not that much of a necessity coz u can always buy newer springs with diffrent weight
The only difference between them is the spring
Yes
Those are the switches I used as an example because I knew the only difference was the spring
both does nice, solid cherry sounds on a good board
if you're buying it on prebuilts, yes it wuld make sense, though in custom keyboards (which we are in), spring weight is irrlevant and mx reds is mx red if it said that it does, regardless of the weight
You can also buy different stems. Does that make the stem an unimportant consideration?
No, it doesn't
huh
uh
it is unimportant. because frankenswitch is not really an necessity and is just practiced for entertainment/killing boredom
The spring is part of what determines the feel of a keyboard, that's obvious. I don't care if it's the spring that came with the switch or not, that doesn't change the fact that it's important
If anything, the fact that people change them should demonstrate just how important they are
i mean
sure
however
springs are a very unimportant part overall because of how easy they are to access and change
they are of minimal consideration when choosing a switch to buy
Slider is connected to the stem
you shouldn't not get Bobas because they only come in 58 62 and 67
tactiles is a different topic in terms of spring weight
The slider is connected to the stem
huh
What else would it mean
tactiles and spring weight does matter a little more
i dont know what tht means
You know what the slider is, right?
at this point i'm jsut confused
yeah
lmfao
Okay
are u talking about how the stem slides?
what is a slider
u mean the bottom housing?
You know how it's connected to the stem?


