#old-cooling
1 messages · Page 21 of 1
It's a very hard to read chart of fan speed. It looks like it stabilized after you enabled PWM.
Yeah its fine now
Is there a reason for this? Idk whats the difference between pwm and DC
PWM controls the fan speed with a controller in the fan that reads the percentage speed the motherboard is requesting and sets the fan RPM accordingly.
DC controls the fan directly by using the voltage. 12V = 100%. Not all fans and hubs like this.
Gotcha, thanks. So mostly using PWM is recommended?
If you have the 4 pin fan, yes. That 4th pin is the PWM signal.
@strange flume what do you have to say about EK’s AIOs
Cause I think I might make a move on my case swap parts this weekend
And I’d prefer to order everything at once which bugs me that the thermal right one went oos
fine but worse value than thermalright
I've owned 2
LF3 arguably better too
Artic won’t fit in the H6 I think
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I think the non rgb 360 they have is on sale but it’s still like double the price of that thermal right one
But I know it’s technically a more “premium” brand and also their mounting hardware box looks super nice and organized
I’ll have to look again when I’m back on PC in a bit
Would it be ok to use a 120mm fan instead of the 80/92mm one on top? Or will the cooler lose its efficiency?
See if it fits lol
I don't see the problem with leaving it with the fan it came with though
@strange flume i need you to tell me how good this unreleased product is https://www.newegg.com/deepcool-liquid-cooling-system/p/N82E16835856275

🗿
🤖
Looks like yet another reskin of the LS720
potentially with the worse pump, potentially not
Deepcool milking that aio for all it's worth lmao
(I would too, this and the AK620 put them back on the map)
got new fans though which is interesting
FE not FC
Apparently noise tuned, could sway me to call it one of their best iterations if it's now a lot quieter
ok no it's the same pump as LS720
it's just a dark variant with new fans
oh they're the same fans as LS720 SE
Ok.
Meh
It's just another reskin, nothing new
Doesn't fit hehe
The fan is loud, more like some sort of vibration at low speeds, higher speeds is just loud.
I'll get a better cooler for cheap
I guess an amd wraith cooler is not compatible on lga1151 mounting holes
It depends on the cooler but a lot of the time you get a water/glycol mix with other additives to prevent corrosion and growth
Some of them will use some proprietary variant of glycol
i have 6 with children
Need some other recommendations on air coolers for lga 1151, below 80mm but with great cooling capabilities. Cooler has to be silent and possibly below €40, used is fine
The cooler can be even 75mm tall, that'd be ok
You won't find anything I'd call "great" in that low of a profile
Yeah sorry, with great I just meant the most you can get out of 70~75mm tall air cooler. It's to cool down a 8500 running at a maximum 65w. I'd like it to be fairly quiet even at higher speeds with below Δ50C
Something like this should work well https://www.amazon.com/dp/B097DTKLRC?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1
You sure it's not gonna be loud when it needs to dissipate 70C?
Separate question, is the arctic freezer 36 a good cooler? It's €25 and how is it compared to the 34 esports duo?
In terms of noise and temps
Could also try to find a newer same size fan of decent quality and call it a day
These coolers may not be amazing but they do the trick for low power chips
Larger fans are quieter, so a low profile 92mm single tower flipped on the side like that is a better option than a 60mm fan
And yeah you can always swap the fan
Send
Thermalright Frozen Warframe 360 Black ARGB CPU Cooler, 360mm Radiator, 120mm Fan, Compatible With Intel Socket LGA 115X, 1200, 1700, 2011, 2066, AMD AM4, AM5 at Scorptec.com.au, the online Gaming PC, server computer and technology experts. Fast delivery to Australia.
im assuming thats not available in the states
This has as much imbued meaning as my "in a minute" one-liners
I'll face turn look weird at u in a minute
i might go with this over the edge from thermalright https://www.amazon.com/ID-COOLING-DASHFLOW-High-end-Radiator-3x120mm/dp/B0BXWZQVNR?ref_=ast_sto_dp&th=1
Just get the thermalright that's not beuno
its oos
Choose A CPU Cooler
Lf iii imo
$10 more and is basically the best aio on the market
Also better longevity than most of the competition
@knotty sparrow never asked, what's your max temp on that aio with the new chip
80C in p95, I've seen it touch 85. It does that whether I set to 40% or 100%.
Oh and that's with +200 -40 CO
Try OCCT
Small extreme steady cycle 18
CPU test
P95 isn't as hard on AMD as OCCT is
Tjmax is 89 so it won't show us much
I'm purely curious lol
But I can run that later and let you know
yeah lmk
Good old IHS bottleneck
I'm curious that maybe your LF2 has a problematic contact plate
Nah it was one of the factory refurbished models from after the recall
I've been sitting on this for a while, it's been nagging at me 
It was perfect with my 5800X
hmmm
Anyway knowing is half the battle
if the OCCT numbers are barely any different then I'll stop worrying
If it makes you feel better I'll pull it off and look at the contact patch... Again. I did remount once already and the spread was good with the offset mount.
nah don't take it off
just send occt results
I'm thinking about downsizing again
this time, Arctic P12 maxes + this
then D41 and AP201
I can get rid of all this watercooling for $400 usd
and it'll probably perform better
I been looking at SAMA IM01 for a while but I just can't size it down to be cheap enough that I'd bother?
So genuinely considering with this
NNNNNNNNNNOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO
THE ASETEK ACQUISITION OF THERMALRIGHT HAS MADE THEM PULL ALL THEIR OLD PUMP PRODUCTS
WTFFFFFFFF
DON'T LEAVEEEE
72 peak on the hottest core after 15 minutes, AVX-512 load
My cooler barely noticed
700 rpm
I think it was the spike in load
Yeah CPU is 104% loaded
hwinfo things lol
Oh wait hot core 5 on the 3D CCD hit 75
Oh no call the fire department
Other CCD is chilling at 52-57
lmao
this is all 12 cores loaded right @knotty sparrow
you did say you'd disable a ccd
They're all loaded
Frequency is lower than I'd hope but that tracks for a torture test
There's no fluctutations that would indicate cores loading/unloading
alr
ok enough interrogating from me 
so your 5800X was just one of the most ridiculously hot ones in existence
never anything inherently wrong
If you had one you would know never to question the 5800X.
I would always say to everyone the 2 hottest CPUs on AM4 are the 5800X3D and the 5800X.
I had the power unlocked and PBO maxed out, undervolt with CO per core...
It was a good chip. 🪦
Served me well for 3 years.
if so its back in stock for me
The cores seem to boost a lot higher in p95, they were all around base clock in the OCCT test but in p95 they boost like crazy
Higher clocks, more volts, more heat
Oh you know, that was a really old p95 version. I think from 2021. I ran the updated version and it's getting similar results to the OCCT test, clocks and all.
Weird that a new version would be so different in behavior
WAIT WHAT THE HELL DID THEY ACTUALLY DO IT???
@strange flume How can a Phantom Spirit 120 SE beat a Frost Spirit 140 V3???
They're about the same
or rather frost commander and PS120 are
oh no the frost spirit is basically the same as commander
they're all about identical
checked out some tests here and there and the PS120 beat the FS140 despite the FS140 having the larger fan and surface area
not by much, but measurably
I think the commander is slightly better than the FS140 cos more heat pipe
which is weirding me out
heat pipes
the difference is basically almost margin of error though
you won't make enough of a difference to justify buying a new one
wym
they're thick heat pipes
yes but not always
the better way to consider it is more heat pipe volume = more better
kinda like how using wider tubes in a liquid loop can ultimately be a little better if the flow rate is equivalent
so say 7 heat pipes on the PS120 was equal to X mm^3 in volume
and it resulted in Y amount of watts transferred
if the heat pipes on the FC140 are similar volume of 5 vs 7
i.e
X mm^3 overall
it could be argued the performance is similar
this is like
really cut down and arbitrary
but should kinda communicate the point
it's a bit like having two identical aios in performance, one has a thicker radiator, the other has a better pump
they're otherwise the same
good real world example of this is the EK Aio vs the Liquid Freezer II
I never knew that
I always thought heat pipes are like
Standard thickness
so more = better all the time
TMYK
you can see they're really thick there
and there's always a ratio of thickness to heat conductivity
it's not a scalar thing
I attributed that to like the image/paint material
so like yeah, more is better
but like
this is another way of more
not to mention it has 140mm fin stacks
so in it's own way it's brute forcing
so in all likeliness the 4 or 5 aren't measurably equivalent
but the fin stacks make up for it
four 8mm heatpipes on the FS140
seven 6mm heatpipes on the PS120
larger fin stacks and airflow = cooler overall = more effective transfer by the pipes
but the cpu itself is about the same
Is how close the FS140 and the PS120 is
you could completely calculate the efficiency from this
I guess an 8mm heatpipe almost equals two 6mm ones?
you can work it out using cross sectional math
assuming they are made of the same material with the same mfg technique
since I'm sure materials and manufacturing methods also have an impact on heatpipe quality
like it has to
Wow then the PS120 being the better performer is surprising
could be more airflow due to higher fan speed?
there's two other denotions to this we haven't talked about
at the cost of more noise
nah the FS140 will easily have more airflow
I'm just guessing
but coldplate efficiency
OH
and heatpipe distribution
Ah
both would play a role here
PS120 must be newer then
the 7 are more diverse and spread
since those would improve over time
that could actually have an impact on something like a 7950X
PS120 barely beats PA120
with the spread out CCDs
PA120 having 6 and older
but on a single CCD one like a 7700X it might actually make it worse since less heatpipes actually connect the heat source
Suppose the test hardware also has an implied effect on test results
wow this goes way deeper than I thought
nope
well
a little
mostly nope
two good reasons
#1 offset mounts exist
#2 the heatpipes are still spread evenly
it's more a case of efficiency
fair enoufh
ultimately it probably doesn't really matter
they both can tame something like a 7700X
so price and size constraints are likely more important than that degree of difference
and the PS120 is cheaper here
By some 27%
brands are getting really good with air coolers
so like
you're talking improvements in a couple degrees at most
which in a way is big, considering the D15
price is much more of a factor at the level both coolers are adequate for anything short of a 900K SKU or a 7950X
but at the same time, if you were at 1 degree under throttle anyway...doesn't really do anything
WOW
at that point it's peace of mind if you aren't throttling or slightly above throttle
the D15 black is almost twice the price of the FS140 and almost three times the price of the PS120
mhm
even the tan-brown is only 2% less than the black
that's crazy
I mean I get it, performance and silence at the same time, but jeez
lol
actual insanity
D15 isn't really the silent king anymore
TBF if I had money to throw around
I might buy a D15 for the brag factor
Phantom spirit evo beats D15 in everything
still rolls among the best, just not outright best anymore?
so the boomer choice
I mean the fact that a 15 year old cooler design is still at all competitive speaks volumes about how good it was made all those years ago
sure does
and before that thermalright was superior
roles have reversed back now
noctua so obsessed with perfectionism they've even given up trying to make white fans altogether
believe it when I see it
I heard some buzz about it a while back
they've been saying a lot of these things for almost half a decade now
fair enough
I've been in the tech space for what
4 years now?
in that time I've seen only a handful of noctua things
NT-H2
a noise duct
direct die mount
that's about it
I've been following computer stuff to remember wanting a HD 7970 to build a PC with
that was my first GPU I wanted to get for myself
they've been talking about so much of this stuff for ages now
I was 14 at the time
but yeah Noctua has been kinda stuck in development hell for a long time
keeps being pushed back unfortunately, roadmap puts it at Q2 this year
It was like q2/q3 2022 at the start, prob pushed way back by pandemic
looked back, it was supposed to be q4 2021 at the start lol
We got the passive cooler, and it was really cool, but everything else got either canceled or pushed back further
I know they canceled the white fan project
and next gen 140mm and d15 got pushed back 2 and a half years
desk fan got canceled I think

Fr
I have an id-cooling slim tower

$35 rn
If you're curious
Probably the most ridiculous case I've seen yet
Mechanic master IF17
on another side note
I just witnessed a 14700K push a 240mm aio to the boiling point
💀
Just intel things
Fr tho how tf did the water reach boiling point
I watched the random lcd aio as it said
"water temp"
"91 92 95 97 99"
in some youtube short
It's probably wrong but I enjoy the idea of it boiling
I'm sure they just renamed the cpu temp to that
idk if you understand what I meant when I said random lcd aio
This wasn't like
hyte
EVGA
Asus
This was
...
what was it omg
💀
Ohhh
literally looking everywhere for this vid
found it
@shrewd juniper 

||(It's very much not gonna be the liquid but still funny)||
Oh no
dominator ram btw
Oh no
Im boutta dominate your ram
I think the bearing in my Arctic P14 are wearing out alright.
They now make this coil whine when running at full speed. Putting my PC at an angle so far has helped reduce the noise a bit.
The noise is like this from low to high rpm it goes from no whine, little whine, tons of whine, not as much whine but still there
P14 CO is dbb
I wonder if there's just air stuck in the bearing somehow and leading to spots where there's no oil
That's completely normal
I have a buttload of them, they start to whine after 40% pwm, a lot between 50-60, then it calms back down over 60
My p14's whine a lot louder than my p12's
a little weird that they'd just start doing it a while after installation though
ahh gotcha.
Yeah mine whine a lot more, p14's are definitely louder
yeah never really had this at the start.
just recently it seems to of gotten worse.
might just be pushing more power and fan curves bringing the fans to higher rpms which it didn't hit before
If it's unbearable warranty them or do tl-b14
tl-b14?
Fan
I've been considering getting my fans replaced. the arctics so far in my experience has been hit or miss.
sometimes they seem really good, other times they disappoint.
P12/p14 max is a good upgrade too
But more whine
But you wouldn't run them at high speed anw
I'd like to get some fans that have same or better performance while having much better cable management because these are atrocious.
Better than p12?
You'd be looking at p28
That's it
Anything else with better management is just plain worse
Or takes an L in something else
I am currently using P12/P14 PWM ARGB and the 140mm fan my torrent comes with for exhaust which I've noticed pulls/pushes more air..
Lucky for US P28's aren't atrocious in price
But everywhere else good luck
They're like 19usd there
B12 extreem is $11 and comes close
what about those LianLi fans that support a Infinity Mirror upgrade attachment?
That's the ones I'm talking about
I am willing to pay up to $30 per fan.
Lian Li P28
Oh okay.
$19 per
I recommend nothing higher than that
You need at least 1 3 pack for the controller though
Otherwise you can only run I think 3 per header
to replicate my setup I will need 10 fans.
Well for cable management there simply isn't better
And for a torrent case like yours I'd worry about lengths
Not tidiness
I have both for issues right now.
Aight. thank you for the recommendation.
do you know if there is a 140mm variant by any chance?
If they don't have a 140mm then there isn't really a better option than P14 max/TL-B14
I really gotta go sorry
Will check those out. Again, thank you very much for your recommendations.
@knotty sparrow @sacred wren
Yep. PA120 and PS120 performing about as well as good 240mm AIOs. That's about right.
All but the highest end liquid cooling is pretty much dead by now.
🫡
It was matching or beating the new H150i link in other tests in that review
Idk how Corsair did it, but they somehow managed to make their aio's worse over 4 years
To the point where tower coolers and 240 aios beat it
For $500-$600
Insane product (insane)
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You plug the fan lighting connector into it, and plug it into an ARGB header
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You mean the PWM header?
That adapter is a lighting adapter
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PWM is 4 pin
Okay can you like snap a picture of the connectors on the fan, the adapter and your mobo?
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You have Phanteks fans right?
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...
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This adapter is Phanteks specific
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Meant to make their daisy chain connector be able to connect to any motherboard
Deepcool uses standard ARGB and PWM connectors
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Alright asking cuz you posted a 3 pin fan connector
Which is responsible for speed, not lights (methinks)
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You can easily plug the 3 pin DC connector on a PWM header without any adapters
Okay so the 4 pin goes to 4 pin
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That's pretty basic
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The 4 pin connector is responsible for speed
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3 pin is the lighting
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I'll be sleeping in like 15 minutes
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Then you're SOL
4 pin RGB is the old standard
Very old in fact
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You CANNOT sync lighting through the 4 pin 12v RGB headers
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3 pin is 5v addressable RGB
4 pin is 12v static RGB
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I don't believe that'd work
Doesn't matter
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Yeah that would be able to let you connect ARGB fans to the old 12v header
But you will NOT get advanced control over it
That pic is very zoomed in
You'll get static red, green or blue
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ARGB part is just extra customization
4 pin rgb can indeed change colors
But no effects
It's any color you want, but no strobing or color cycle effects
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You can run the fans with no lighting by just using the PWM header
And not bothering with adapters and crap
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It's not gonna be pretty but it'll work
It's incorrect to refer 4 pin rgb as non adjustable
Working but boring > pretty and non-functional
I meant the advanced control
Fair enough
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but since your board only has 4 pin rgb
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a hub won't have the ability to use advanced lighting
since it will have to be converted to rgb anyway
not addressable rgb
Yeah you're kinda SOL
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No advanced control no matter what you do
It means s*it out of luck if you're wondering about the abbreviation
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It'll have to eventually connect to the mobo tho
Very limited
So you can actually sync with other stuff like the RAM
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Crap, this isn't good
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=b73xG1HlFhY
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EK Water Blocks is accu...
Not what I expected to drop today
Linus during WAN show yesterday: "Why do YouTubers keep killing companies?"
Steve less than 8 hours later:
I won't hate you, but you might hate you when it leaks over your power supply
Yeah I thought about installing a shield plate so in case it leaks it'll just flow to outside of pc case
So is it perfectly or just "fine" for tubes to bend a little?
The ideal is for them to be as straight as you can get them, but a bit of bending won't affect it significantly
Yeah small cases can definitely force some unique issues
I cannot fathom the issues if I downsized to jonsbo d31
According to twitter : MKBHD with the humaine ai pin
Funny he says that after trying to kill the copper water block company. To the point he stole their prototype.
Are there spam posts that get deleted? I keep seeing the unread messages icon here and other channels but when i check, there’s nothing new.
Suggestions on cooling for a gaming laptop? Those like vacuums you can get for the sides are they any good? Cooling pad underneath suggestions? I have a bigger TT one now but older and not sure if the wife damaged it as it doesn't seem to sound or push a ton of air out ( like i think it should) This laptop is spiking to 100c on cpu doing basic stuff and getting up to and staying close to 100c gaming. Legion Pro I9 32 gb ddr5 and rtx 4090.
laptops are built to run that hot, if you want them loss hot thermal limit them but that means less perf
Thanks, used to PC do seeing those numbers was insane to me. Was looking for things that might cool it a little without tweaking it. Something the kid can use when I send it and him off to college here. Doing things like that is going to beyond him and good chance he would mess something up and damage the laptop
Could open it up and see if there's dust clogging it up
Do that when I install the extra nvme and new ram. but brand new laptop so shouldn't be cloged or anything I would think. just got less than a month ago
ah gotcha
My gasket for my artic freezer 2 DISSOLVED
This is one of the recalled units.
It literally turned to mush inside.
Oh my fins inside my pump and my liquid are absolutely screwed. They gave me a small bottle of top off liquid but the dissolved gasket is inside all of the liquid in chunks.
Is it safe to use distilled water for the cooling solution? I'm going to have to drain all of the water and rinse out everything...
Only thing I have on my is distilled water
@weary raft
Those middle two rows are supposed to be fins... They're completely covered with dissolved gasket
And my coolant has chunks in it
damn
How do I go about cleaning this? Just rinse a few times with distilled water?
just running water through it isnt really going to clean it off well
though you do want to get the big chunks off first at least, so you do want to do a rinse
Like this is actually insane. How TF do you use materials that dissolve IN A WATER COOLER
tbf it could be a supplier issue
normally gaskets dont just dissolve
but maybe if they changed suppliers or the supplier suddenly changed formulas, it could have been an unexpected side effect
i cant say i've ever seen any gasket that was water soluble
Are you within the time frame to return? @subtle flower
This cooler was purchased 2 years ago
Imma contact artic to see if they'll send a new pump head
I’d do that
Since I'm trying to clean it and it ain't working
im not too sure how you clean the pump head tbh
i dont think iso would be a good thing to use due to potential for damage
and it cant be ultrasonicly cleaned
the coldplate can be cleaned with iso though
Cold plate I have a replacement
Idk how to clean through it enough to work. I need my computer functional at least
If I have to pull out my mounting hardware are slap my dark Rock 4 on here I'mma be angry. So much extra effor
25°C at idle. I was at low 40's before
335 watts under load and my hottest cores are 81°C
I'm so happy rn
Let's see if prime 95 load will melt the cooler
Holy crap, 362 watts under load with P95... It can go that high???
and we at 93° C with the worst case scenario, we have succeeded
Flush it out several times with hot water, then make a distilled water w/ inhibitor mix
Jfc that plate was all black
That's gross af
I would opt to do that sometime soon as you probably have a lot of black muck in the fluid which could get caught in the new coldplate
I tend to use 95% distilled, 0.8% ph stabiliser, 4.2% propylene glycol
It's the same mix as one of alphacool's loop mixes and works really well
But I make it myself
Yeah it's because the gasket starting dissolving into the coolant. It's one of the recalled arctic models
Yeah, and it'll have dissolved into the fluid itself
So lots of *rubber/plastic particles moving around, could lead to a second episode of issues if left alone imo
What you want are these three things, a decent sized cup, and a funnel
Max up the mix first, then slowly add it
For what it's worth tho, I'm not a scientist at Arctic, so they might be well aware of the plate also dissolving? But to my knowledge I remember it being more like a slimey build-up, less a dissolving plate lol
Wait
Jog my memory a bit, the gasket is the rubber isn't it
Didn't the first gen not have a rubber insert?
I'm stupid

Ok so not metallic particles, rubber. Lmao
So much less concerned now, though given the state of your coldplate, I still think a fluid change would be in order
The alphacool mix is supposed to be very non-destructive, like the bare minimum mix you'd put into any water loop
So should be fine
I thought it did and was just different color? But I mean, my memory is worse than XMP c*rsair so could be misremembering.
No you're right it did. I went back and realised I was dumb lol
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Ty
Easy to reference later
It's a couple years old but nothing major has changed since then
Yeah
Hoping someone can help with a question. I recently got a 3d printer and it has an exhaust panel on the back for a fan but I cannot find any details on what size of a fan would go here. The mounting holes are 2.5" from screw hole to screw hole (left to right and up and down, not diagonal). What size fan would this be? From what I have seen, people use computer style fans for this application (the ones with an AC adapter). Any help would be appreciated
Sounds like an 80mm fan
thank you
I could be wrong and it's a weird size like 65mm
Never seen this happen before
Had a power outage earlier and my PC is plugged into a surge protector so when I went to turn it on for the first time it did this
Also what was weirder is if I like gently hit the area above the fan it worked fine again but I since restarted the PC and now it's working fine again
Also the gently hitting it would only work temporarily too and for some reason putting on the magnetic dust filter would also make it stop working properly but then again it's working fine now so who knows
Fan's probably had a short
I need some dust filters for 3d printed pc case. Found this one on aliexpress, they say it has .8mm Ø holes, I don't have other filters near me to compare to, does it look good or will it restrict airflow much?
I don’t think you wanna use that for filtration. Maybe as part of the aesthetic or to cover filters as it actually should have descent airflow. But all the filters ive seen are mesh screen and much finer than even window screens.
Check this out on @Newegg:120mm Fan Dust Filter Mesh 4.72inch Magnetic Frame PVC PC Computer Case Fan Dust Mesh Cover Grills Black 5-Pack https://www.newegg.com/p/1YF-01JK-00030?Item=9SIB7W5H2H1367&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-9SIB7W5H2H1367-_-04272024
Off-topic but I am curious what your 3D Printed case looks like. Mind sending a picture?
Thanks for the feedback, I'll keep looking for some different filters too. They're quite cheap on aliexpress so I could buy some with different hole diameters or patterns and test them out myself
It's actually a work in progress, I need to print a case that fits all my "server's" components without wasting much space. I have drawn a simple sketch to fit the ~itx mb, sff psu and 8 2.5" drives into a 280×280×85mm box
With this size I should be able to make the entire outer frame in one print. I should buy some more filament because it's going to require a lot
Ahh gotcha.
I'll definitely share it as soon as I complete it. Hopefully, before the end of June, I have all the parts that I need, including dust filters and 16-32gb of working ram.
Neat.
Is this case for that CPU you were trying to turn into a new server?
I'll be using an i5 8500 (or 8600k if necessary) and the repaired asrock h310cm motherboard.
CORSAIR - iCUE H150i ELITE
Would you recommend this 360mm or Rog Ryujin 360mm?
Neither, but if I had to choose between those two only, the Ryujin is better for a couple reasons. It's both better at cooling and it doesn't use iCue software, which has had loads of issues and major bugs.
I've seen iCue use 100% of a thread just for a simple effect on 9 fans
Yeah I don't wanna touch 100 feet within corsair fan wiring
Software looks smooth enough on my wife's pc
but the wiring, ugh.
I'm only asking this because
this bothers me
And I see my cpu reach to 70 under load whilst playing lego fortnite with max settings DX12
The aio is artic Liquid II 280mm if you're wondering
and the radiator is 38mm thick
So I wonder if the ryujin 360mm will clear the motherboard headers and seat there just fine
Eh ima drop this whole thing and be content
Until the pump dies
And as long my cpu 5800x3d never reaches 80-90 C constantly
I personally prefer if the headers aren't visible
Wanted to give the credit that the brute force of the thicc q60 rad would make it decent
Turns out it* has such a wide gamut of performance it can be both better and worse than a good 360mm
Which leads me to believe the fans that the Q60 fans are just not fit for purpose at all
At very low speeds that cooler seems to be performing worse than a regular 240mm
Yeah sounds like maybe the stock fans don't have high enough pressure?
They claim 105 cfm and 8.14 static pressure
Which I think is pretty high actually
At max speed it seems to work well, if you like a loud aio.
At silent however it seems to be worse than a regular 240mm
This has everything to do with the fan working at a different range for pressure optimisation
So it's a decent aio that costs a fortune, but is inherently dependent on how you prefer your PC to sound
So while it probably can get effective performance better than most fans, the Q60 fans don't seem to be well made for low rpm operation, only high
Turn this on it's head, if you were using really good pressure fans like T30's or P12 max
It would probably perform a lot better across the whole rpm range rather than just at high speed
idk, it kinda lets me down that it's something like a $300 aio but won't perform like it deserves to be unless you crank it to an uncomfortable speed lol
Could be worse, could be ANY corsair aio rn

A $300 aio should keep my cpu cool and massage my feet
Considering it doesn't perform any better than a $60 360mm
By design all X3D chips will hit this unless you do direct die
Just a heads up
They are hot by design, the copper 3d vcache layer is easily conductive of heat and sits right on top of the cpu die, so it will just naturally be a lot hotter
Gotcha
It just sits on top absorbing all that heat, becomes like a miniature radiator on top of the cpu ccds lol
But you should be fine as it's still well within tolerable spec for accelerated wear (over 95C is confirmed by AMD to cause degradation for long periods but under is known to be safe)
They run that number lower on X3D due to the known nature of 3D vcache, so the 89C spec exists
So yeah, it'll get hot, but it'll self manage at 89 and hold itself from getting hotter
But don't really expect much from changing 1 aio to another. We're talking changes of a margin of difference almost
I got a pc for $50 bucks it works fine for most part but it stays on 89-99 Celsius which I’m told isn’t healthy with summer coming up and temperatures rising I’m scared it will burn up anyone know how I can effectively cool it
Any recommendations on cpu coolers oh and It has a old pc case so only one case fan fits
What cpu is it and can you describe the cooling that's on top of it
it is a i7 880 3.07ghz 4/8?
880??
Yep
Oh 50 bucks
OMG
I thought that said 850 HOLY HELL
Ok, really old intel, it's probably using the stock cooler which is more than ok
Paste is probably old and wasted and it's sitting way above tcase (rated max temp)
So simple answer, paper towels, a screwdriver, and $6 of arctic MX-6
Wipe away the old paste, new paste on, bang and it's done
The fan could also be dead or unplugged, but it should be relatively easy to do
Fan swap is also $5
Yeah tCase is 72.7C so you really want to have a look as soon as possible
I believe the paste has been replaced since my friend did take out all components and experiment
Well something is off if it's running that hot
Again, could also be the fan
It may also be it's starved of air
Just a couple examples tho to get you started
Yeah both fans work but i only got a single intake fan
The second fan I’m referring to is on cpu cooler
Ye that's pretty standard fair
I'd be thinking paste tho
Like the cooler may even not be tightened down all the way
Need to get inside and look
They're very simple chips, early intel core, they don't need anything crazy
If it's in good need of a clean that could be in order too
Make sure you don't let the fans spin if you go to use a vacuum or compressed air
Can break the fan if it spins too fast freely
I see I will look into it later just asking will it the cpu break if it continues being on stable 89-99
Quite possibly yes
Since tcase is 72.7
So you're overheating by definition
Not like the newer stuff these days that self regulate their heat, those will just keep going as if they're fine
I see
Not sure what Tcase stand for
Basically max temp
PSA for any LFII users with the recalled batch:
Changing the gasket and coldplate may not be a permanent fix, it may still build-up inside, i.e the recall service was a bandaid, not a true fix. See the following posts below for recommendations and suggestions on what to do.
Fix suggestion would be to flush the rad out with some hot (keep it short if hot) or cold water (please check your local water supply quality before cleaning), clean the jet plate of any gunk build-up as well under hot water, leave it all to dry for a while then opt to use a clear waterloop refill mix from a watercooling brand such as Thermaltake's T1000 Pure clear, XSPC PURE premix clear, Mayhem XT-1 Nuke V2 clear, or the solution linked below. Shouldn't need a whole lot, probably no more than about 300mL at most to fill the loop. I personally make my own mixes and use the following below. I use a lot but USD per litre is about no more than 3, which compared to buying a premix, may save you a lot of expense if you wanted to consider a cheaper way of doing it.
Please use care if you decide to premix. Gloves are highly recommended with PH stabiliser and safety glasses are suggested for chemical safety to avoid splashing in the eyes.
Clear mixes like this (Don't get colour) should be very friendly to your hardware and should come without any real further issues down the line, though, be aware that you should check the AIO every so often (let's say, every time you decide to repaste would probably make it a pretty convenient routine)
To answer ahead of time "Why not regular water?", water from the taps comes with additives and chemicals, and their own biological system from being taken through your local water service to your address, so it's not truly clean.
Distilled or osmosis water, is treated, known quote "pure" water. It have all known water treatment additives and chemicals and bacteria removed from it, and using it in your loop, along with the stabiliser and glycol, creates a solution that is highly resistant to growth and build-up, which especially with warm water involved, can happen very easily, even in a sealed cooler.
Using solutions that are very simple like this should be very safe for the LF2, and provided you follow the instructions, should hold off any further changes for quite a long time (though again, always worth checking every so often that it's not building up again via unscrewing the coldplate and checking for build-up there, then screwing it back on tight.)
Hopefully this helps anyone who still owns a recalled LF2. Alternative suggestion would be a $45-$55 aio from Thermalright. Very good, inexpensive aios at the time of this writing if you're not prepared to take one apart, although GN posted a good video about doing this, and arctic did provide material for performing this yourself as well:
https://youtu.be/jHdEqWpexH0?si=yexOkJAHzAwi99Ce
Sponsor: Buy Thermaltake's Tower 100 Mini-ITX case on Amazon (https://geni.us/TuAASGt)
Arctic discovered a defect in its Liquid Freezer II coolers that we've heavily reviewed (and generally recommended), and now, it is offering repair kits (or replacements) for anyone affected. The defect pertains to the gasket breaking down and causing gunk bui...
Suggestions on watercooling premixes are welcome. I'm looking for totally clear solutions that are recommended safe for a range of different metals, copper and aluminium being key components
Last but not least, please take this not as a huge alert that your AIO would die tomorrow. It should still continue to be fine, just be subject to regression in performance as time goes on, if it's still having build-up problems. This is not mandatory, only highly recommended.
I'm not sure if this is worth a pin, but this PSA should be good for most if not all aios currently on the market for changing and servicing.
If you do pin, make it top one lol
Probs worth a pin imo
Cheers lad
Welp, one of the fans on my 240mm DeepCool died after making woodchipper noises for 2 days
Damn
Well FC120's aren't expensive, you could maybe even warranty it
Or get a 3 pack of C12C-S' for $12
And experience properly quiet fans
Yes, I was just planning to replace the fans
C12C-S 3 pack probably the cheapest idea then
I have to replace both of them, because of dumb specialized cables they use
They're better fans too
Yeah they have that daisy chain one iirc
P12 PST 5 pack also not a bad idea if you want a full fan change
Or just the one FC120
FC120 aren't bad, just noisy compared to others, bit of food for thought for ya
Is this one of the ones you're talking about, Felix?
https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-TL-C12C-S-Computer-Included-Quantities)/dp/B0BKKFBR9R/ref=asc_df_B0BKKFBR9R/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=693401438125&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=1609683107112129746&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9010545&hvtargid=pla-1947366515678&mcid=3b2ab91bd3693d42b7bfad8b8c757699&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI7qOrg9_yhQMVmIFaBR3VGAGQEAQYAiABEgJuJPD_BwE&th=1
Ye that's them
Thanks
There's also c12b for a diff look
Like $4 more
I wonder what noctuas margins are with single fans costing over $30
You can get a good idea by comparing an NF-A12x25 with a Thermalright TL-B12
Thermalright sells the same fan, from the same factory, to the same quality, with the same performance
$11 each
Compared to Noctua which iirc is about $25-$30
Wtf that basically looks the same
Corsair is even worse, they sell fans by the dozen that are like this with their new ecosystem at some $50 a piece

Cos it is

They get identical thermal results
Thermalright literally sells noctua products, in black and white, and with rgb, for a fraction of the price
They beat noctua at their own game with tower cooling, it's not even a contest
Even their paste is better than Noctua's fabled nt-h2 now (shorter lifespan but still significant as an achievement)
Noctua lives and dies now by it's name, it has almost nothing left that thermalright can't already do
Thermalright even sells those A12x25's decked in rgb
TL-B12-S is a full rgb sku of noctuas
Those are to my knowledge the only fans that don't come that cheap in thermalright's product stack
It's really amusing seeing people say I pick thermalright cos it's cheap and terrible when it is in fact just Noctua mk.ii with a far better lineup than noctua would ever allow themselves to be
Its the same fan but its $11

I knew thermalright made some decent fans but i didnt know they had the sauce like that
I like companies like id.cooling, thermalright and whoever else slipped my mind
Those companies blew up out of nowhere and now there is a lot of competition
Thermalright is doing the Lord's work selling $55 360mm aios with top spec noctuas
$42 dual towers that beat $300 corsair aios
They're based af
ID.cooling is really good too
The reason why I don't talk a lot about them however, is their fans
While great, loud
The one I have isnt that loud but it doesnt sound good
The three titans in the space to me are thermalright, idcooling, arctic
I think its time to replace it with what you showed me fr
The rest have either fallen off, or have some horrible catch 22
B12 is the sauce fr
Ye
B12's are solid
C12C's are slightly worse
But they're $4 a piece
They're based off of C12 pros
E12's are also quite good
M12's are S12's but unifan style
They even have reverse fans
Pretty much every fan I listed after the B12 just now costs no more than $8 a piece
They're based af
Oops I mixed one of them up
Still pretty good tho
Man got the whole lineup memorized

Ill look into them but my eyes are set on that b12
Worse in what way
Bit louder, fair bit less performance
More on the level of P12 PST
Just about tbh lol
If I do buy any fans, it’ll only be one or two. so ill get the b12
My silent wing 3s are doing pretty well
Bro its under $10… thats so crazy
Lol
Why is amazon saying its a frequently returned item? Maybe there aren’t a lot of orders so a few returns flag it
Also the p12 max is the same price but i dont know how much better the max is ocer the normal one
Not sure, I know a mountain of people who own all these fans
P12 max is also good
If you want to go max then you can, those have a fair bit of noise to them over 2000 rpm tho
What do you know about the b12 extreme
B12 but more rpm
faster, louder, better, has red corner thing
Both good
I don't really lean one way or the other
B12 I think has daisy chain P12 max doesn't
iirc
1 Day before the replacements arrived, the DeepCool fan is working again
I learnt something today
@knotty sparrow @sacred wren p12 max white is fdb, p12 max black is dbb
Ask me why, I don't know
They are distinctively different for some reason
Not surprising, the rgb fans have diff motor or something too because they don't have the motor wine
Read the review: https://hwbusters.com/cooling/arctic-p12-max-showdown-black-dbb-vs-white-fdb/
Support us through Patreon - https://www.patreon.com/hardwarebusters
🐶 🐱 🐭 🐹 🐰 🦊 You will find the items we review through the following affiliate links 🐻❄️ 🐨 🐯 🦁 🐮 🐷
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So the ultimate result could just be sample variation for overall performance, but apart from that, FDB seems to only be a little bit better noise wise
It's not margin of error though, it's a marked difference
Article if people don't want to watch the vid:
https://hwbusters.com/cooling/arctic-p12-max-showdown-black-dbb-vs-white-fdb/
The other thing I've learned is these should only be daisy chained (or linked) to only 2 per header
3 would exceed standard header spec for these fans
That all tracks. DBB is known to be noisy, but very reliable.
Yeah so it's an interesting trade off between a slightly better noise profile vs a much longer service life
Additionally, both fans will probably be affected by non-axial mounting like a loose radiator or maybe a gooseneck mount
So I can sort of make a lot sense out of why I get both ends of the stick with this fan now
Me with 6 daisy chained arctic p12s 
P12 is an exception, they're quite low power and you can usually do 8 or 9 (depending on the model) for a single 1A header
The ones I have are the 0.11A model so I could do 9 fans at max speed and still be within spec for a 1A header. Most headers have a safety margin just in case, but stick to the spec.
P12 (an older revision, if there are any new ones) is rated for 0.08A so a good 12 fans before exceeding 1A
Yeah there was at least one model that went that low
They have so many varieties of it
Are they loud
No, about average
I still dont understand why they used a different bearing. They experimenting or something?

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This video attempts to make t...

FDB is cheaper to make than DBB and doesn't last as long. White fans will probably be replaced sooner than black fans, because every white plastic starts to discolor after a few years.
So they can use the cheaper, shorter life span in the fan that's expected to be replaced sooner.

Makes sense
I run 9 off one header for the vanilla lol. The power difference is 0.09A vs 0.42A on the max
Smol
Let's see how good it is when replacing the cooler master one on the stock-ish heatsink
So the cooler master fan is able to keep a stable 70C with 60% speed (2600rpm) while being louder than the arctic p8 pwm at 100% speed (2900rpm) keeping it at 73°C
Cooler master does have good fan designs
Its a fair trade considering the cm fan can still be heard below 40%, while the arctic is completely silent up until 60-70% speed
Their sickleflow has long been a solid choice
So not too surprised it can do a bit better albeit louder
I do have one of those on my kind of itx build
Ye, I still have a couple
Arctic always nails performance, price and noise
Oh yeah for sure
Sickleflows tho, I would give the credit for a lot of CM aios being decent
In those tests I made I used a 8600k, which is more power hungry and less efficient at higher loads compared to the 8500
The single sickleflow I use in my nr200p is just barely louder compared to one of the three TR tl c12c. Still performs about the same
I have no idea how ThermalRight is able to offer all those cooling devices for extremely low prices
c12c's are 11-13 euro for the 3 fan pack. That's about €4 per fan. And they perform about the same as other competititors like the p12 (ik they're mostly static pressure aimed) but still a good option
The p8 likely performs a bit less because it just pushes all the air towards the motherboard whereas the cm one pushes it farther away (I can feel the flow about 50cm away from it
I was thinking about a 3d printed tunnel that redirects the airflow as far as possible from the intake to avoid hot air from being reused
Just to understand how the two differ
@knotty sparrow @sacred wren
P12 max dbb is discontinued
All p12 max now is fdb
The ones I picked up are in fact fdb
Both black and white
Not entirely surprising since most reviews will focus on short term tests like noise and ignore the fact the DBB would last longer
Not to mention DBB is generally more expensive
Stickers are cheaper than redoing the boxes
Can anyone recommend a budget/ high end CPU liquid cooler for an AMD Ryzen 7800x3d chip, just want to see what y'all suggest compared to what I have in mind
Thermalright assassin spirit v2 plus
Liquid...
I know what was said
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#amd #ryzen #7800x3d
7800x3d is only 2% worse at full power on a stock cooler
Single tower is overkill
You could literally use a 120mm AIO, which we never recommend because they're worse than air coolers.
Easily cooled and maximum gaming performance, that's the 7800X3D in a nutshell
Wasn't looking to buy. Just wanted to see other options for a friend with similar specs as mine
Well for a 7800X3D that's the simple answer
Anything beyond a stock cooler is overkill so literally almost anything works if it has a fan on it
We recommend a $20 cooling solution
I thought fluid dynamic bearings last longer than dual ball bearings
Is it just their fdbs that are worse than their dbbs?
Dbb should last longer in general, noctua's fdb-ish is the exception
it aint right no mo
is it that cheap one that's somehow packs a screen on the pump with a budget lower than $100?
Yes
It's like walking up to an old diner in the country and the sign is just dangling 
heh
You mean they got a THERMALRIGHT
Thermalwrong
Fr
@shrewd juniper
Has best food, tho!
@strange flume
https://www.amazon.com/Thermaltake-TOUGHLIQUID-Rotational-Radiator-CL-W323-PL12GM/dp/B09FS3Y1GS
TOUGHLIQUID Ultra 360 AIO Cooler is an all-in-one liquid cooler corporate a 2.1 Inch rotational LCS Display on the CPU water block; users can monitor real-time PC information and upload images or GIF files with 480*480 resolution, which could help users personalized their unique visual effect on ...
212$ usd
420mm ultra rgb is crazy lmao
Lol
What are good or best pc fans?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/JmfnTW/thermalright-tl-c12c-x3-6617-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-tl-c12c-x3-d6
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/vq6p99/thermalright-tl-c12c-s-x3-6617-cfm-120-mm-fans-3-pack-tl-c12c-s-x3-d6
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/LmCFf7/arctic-p12-pst-563-cfm-120-mm-fans-5-pack-acfan00137a
Thanks
For my cooler I’m using the Arctic cooler 3 and they have an all in one plug should I plug that into sys fan or should I do the cpu plug
CPU, because if that one is empty the BIOS might throw a fit
Alright thanks!
can support the artic p12s that they are good fans. they have been in 2 different pc cases with me and they stil spin and spin. purchased on april 27, 2022


