#old-cooling
1 messages · Page 13 of 1
Any coolant with a sediment is a headache of maintenance. Opaque stuff, rheoscopic, etc
Test how it looks by mixing a little in a cup
I use prestone 
How often would it need draining?
Don't forget the cleaning of all the blocks and rads
A sonic cleaner would be a smart investment with all those parts to clean
..... Yeahhh
Probably... every 6 months or so max?
Hmmm gotcha
Probably less with high quality coolant, idk, you really have to value that aesthetic to justify it imo
Check out the watercoloring Reddit discord
The graphene coolant foamed a lot in the testing so I'd say it's not that high quality long term
is it possible that the gpu runs hotter if running games on a fast nvme instead of a slower hdd?
The storage device would have absolutely nothing to do with GPU temps, except in the rare case that it's running a lower fps on the HDD.
Is any D5 pump good for a loop or are there specific ones I should look for?
You should use the one that comes with the leakshield, easier to make sure it's all compatible
The 100 ULTITUBE D5 PRO LEAKSHIELD comes as a combination, consisting of reservoir/pump combo and leakshieldThe borosilicate glass reservoir, with a diameter of 65mm, has a very high hardness and scratch resistanceRounded off with an impressive RGBpx-compatible LED ring, with 13 addressable LEDsLEAKSHIELD actively protects against leaks by creat...
Gotcha.
Hmmm. If I did a dual loop would it be a bad idea to include the ram in one of the loops?
Cause it seems doing a triple loop is gonna be a bit wonky placement wise for the third pump.
No issue at all
You can do a 480mm for the GPU and the second 480mm for the CPU, RAM, and SSD. I bet the coolant would never get above 30C.
A 480mm has about 500W of cooling potential
..... Are these really $320???
What's the cooling potential of a 560mm Monsta then?
Yes, the leakshield alone is $120 and that's without the mounting hardware
Probably closer to 700W or more
.......
I see.
I think I will go with a dual loop then since it won't look wonky with having a D5 pump dead center of the case.
Plus save myself $320....
Thank g0d all the water cooling parts aside from the water blocks can be reused for years to come.
Fittings and O-rings will need replacing after a few years too
That's what $100-150 every few years?
Give or take yeah
That's reasonable.
I can't seem to find that pump on Amazon China and the one from Amazon.com won't ship there. Does having the leak shield on the pump offer any benefit besides being easier to setup?
i cooled a 7980xe and xoc bios 2080ti with a single 60mm thick 360mm rad with p12's in push
not ideal at all but manageable
I've found a deal on some thermalright tl c12c fans (3) for just 11€. This is usually the price of just a single p/f12 fan from arctic, how do they compare in terms of performance and noise?
They're pretty decent. Not as quiet as P12s but they're up there in performance.
So should I get the deal? To me it looks really good since it's just 11 bucks
Or else there's the p12 value pack for usually 30-35€ but I feel like I'd spend too much
Yeah that's a great deal, go for it
Btw I just found a video comparison that included p12 and c12, the difference in noise is very small
About 3-4db
And the c12 has pretty rgb for more fps 
It's the non RGB version :[
No fps
Pepehands
Just to make sure, probably should’ve asked earlier, this pump is fine right? https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-xtop-ddc-3-2-pwm-elite-acetal-incl-pump
EK-XTOP DDC 4.2 PWM Elite - Acetal (incl. pump) is a High-Performance water cooling pump. The core of the unit is the market-proven EK-DDC 4.2 PWM water pump (4-pin PWM FAN header) and comes pre-assembled with EK-XTOP DDC - Acetal and EK-DDC Heatsink Housing - Black.
Also, how would I go about a drain port?
DDC pumps are fine for most loops unless you're doing something crazy like a dual rad or other high resistance stuff.
If there's no built in fill port I'll just cut out a section of tube big enough to add my own, near the bottom of the loop.
…im doing triple rad
You'll probably want a D5 pump then
You could do twin pumps
Or just any D5 from a name brand really
The D5 is basically twice the size so it does the job of two DDC pumps
If you did dual pump you could choose to run them in parallel to get more flow or in serial to get more pressure. Pressure might be good with all those rads.
Oh wait Falcie. What are smaller less powerful pump options that would be fine for a ram loop?
Price and size restrictions?
Oh NVM.
You said reservoir. Thought you said pump/reservoir.
This sadly doesn’t fit https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-volume-flt-360-d-rgb-plexi
All new Flat (FLT) series EK-Quantum Volume FLT reservoir units! The new Volume reservoirs are part of the EK Quantum Line of products and come with sophisticated addressable D-RGB lighting implementation. Each reservoir is featuring standard 120mm fan mounting holes for maximum flexibility during the installation. The reservoir is equipped with...
Really thought it would sadly
Hmm maybe a 240 can fit
Do you have a pump/res combo?
That should honestly be fine.
Nvm that side mount can’t work because of my EATX mobo
Also is it worth the extra money to just get a CPU block over a mono block?
Because the mobo block I got was $80ish
Not really. As long as it fits
You could make a case for better thermals depending on the block but cheaper is definitely better in it's own way
That’s the other thing, I gotta see if this fits LOL
@languid gale make sure you have a contact frame or backplate before you put all this on
Already had a contact frame since day 1 of my 13900k
My mono block is made for a Z690 Aorus Master
Ahh good cos better cooling + ass ILM = no improvement in bad cases
I have no answer for this, maybe someone on google might know
My expectation is no it won't but maybe
It's a niche case
Monoblocks themselves aren't too common
Google had nothing about it
Looking at the boards I dont really see a difference between them so I think it might fit
Only one way to find out then
Worth a reddit post if you figure it out tbh
Someone else may want to try it
Ehhh how easy is it to reverse taking off the heat sinks and stuff?
I wouldn't have a clue mate it's always different
Okay so the block by itself fits
Now I’m trying to figure out how to get the rest of the stuff with it mounted
Like the IO shield housing
using air cooler for the first time in years
finally have a case that has somewhat cooler clearance lmao
Monoblocks, yay
And you need to unscrew some extra plastic piece off of it
Ehh was worth a shot since it was so cheap
Honestly looks kinda cool like that.
Yeah no it doesn’t
I didn’t drop $500 on a board for it to look like something a lot cheaper
To each their own.
Yeah monoblocks are great, but kind of a pain
Oh just noticed no covers on the SSDs.
Looks like a got a DS3H and slapped a mobo block on it
That’s temporary
Oiio
Don't diss me like that man.
It probably works fine tho lmao
Could you maybe trim the io piece?
I mean I could do some sketchy metal fab
If it lines up with the block that's a W imo
Too much hassle to be worth it
I really liked that stacked metal look on the IO ngl.
I’d rather spend $50 extra or so and not have to worry about it
Not a big fan of the exposed wires on the top left though.
There's nothing some well placed Dremeling can't fix
If it's purely decorative at that point then glue it
True
Either way I think imma just return it since I’m already returning two things to EKWB
Reservoir too big and I’m getting a better pump
Could do a pump/res combo instead then
Any suggestions for one?
I was thinking this https://www.ekwb.com/shop/ek-quantum-kinetic-flt-240-d5-pwm-d-rgb-plexi
All new Flat (FLT) series EK-Quantum Kinetic FLT D5 pump-reservoir units! The new Kinetic combo units are part of the EK Quantum Line of products and come with sophisticated addressable D-RGB lighting implementation and a genuine D5 pump! Each unit is featuring standard 120mm fan mounting holes for maximum flexibility during the installation. Th...
If I were doing seperate pump/res I’d be getting this reservoir anyway
That would work nicely
How much do you guys think it would cost for a dual loop?
$700 on the cheap end give or take
Including everything
Better stuff costs more ofc
I see.
So I should be able to do a pretty good dual loop for $1000?
Because I was looking around and $4500 gets me a dream build without custom loops so I was wondering how much the custom loops would add.
A pretty decent one yeah
You think I can also get the leak shield stuff within that budget?
Also what water blocks do ya recommend for AM5 and 4090? I am trying to put together a list to get a sense for how much it will cost for the closed loop.
I've never looked at AM5 blocks and it depends on the model of 4090
Yeah you should be able to fit the leakshield in that budget if you play your cards right
Oh, I thought the 4090s all shared the same PCB minus the HOF ones.
Aorus Master cus I love the looks of those things. My plan currently is save up 4.5k to get the setup done on air then get another 1k saved to put it all into a custom loop.
https://www.titanrig.com/alphacool-eisblock-aurora-geforce-rtx-4090-aorus-master-gaming-gpu-water-block-with-backplate-03-20-ac-0306-01-on.html
Or
https://www.newegg.com/p/2YM-009D-001T8
For reference here's the PCB of the aorus master
And here's the MSI Gaming X trio for comparison
Also if I remember correctly I shouldn't mix copper and aluminum together yes?
I see, much more different then I expected.
Ideally yes, nickel plated copper would be ok if you needed
So preference is copper with copper but if needed copper will work with Nickle?
Nickel would just be a thin plating covering more copper
That way the copper doesn't react and corrode
Gotcha.
Also if I am going this far to water cool, should I delid or use Liquid Metal?
For best results.
For AM5 what you can do is lap the IHS and use liquid metal on that
This way you don't expose the dies and sensitive components under the IHS while still getting massive cooling gains
Gotcha.
Delidding is mostly safe these days but there's always risk involved
Gosh I gotta find a new word. I keep using "gotcha".
Does delid offer better results?
Honestly no
Or are they like within margin of error.
It's very close
Will do lapping and lm then.
Definitely nothing worth the risk of delid
I forgot I can use amazon.com as well and not just .cn
That opens up my options dramatically.
Currently considering this beauty.
https://www.amazon.com/Phanteks-PH-GB4090GB-GIGABYTE-Nickel-Plated-Digital-RGB/dp/B0BLY6G2XF/ref=mp_s_a_1_17?crid=343GHGTDD5USJ&keywords=RTX+4090+waterblock+aorus&qid=1685601299&refresh=1&sprefix=rtx+4090+waterblock+aorus%2Caps%2C107&sr=8-17
Glacier G4090 GIGABYTE Water Block comes with integrated D-RGB lighting that beautifully complements the water block and can synchronize with Phanteks' D-RGB accessories and compatible third-party products. Lastly, the included CNC machined black anodized or chrome plating aluminum backplate cove...
That does eat 1/4th of your budget
Ooof true.
50c idle temp with a downclock on a 7700x cant be good right
Going with the Bykski nickle block.
gonna boot a game to see
$209
Ooof, just the CPU block and the Bykski block after shipping and import is already at $500.
You can order most stuff off of aliexpress once you get to china
Hmmm true, though for now I suppose this works as a reference which is the point of it.
like 80c with 40% usage on cpu
should have a -30 on everything
about 1.3v
That's fine
Bloody hell, the leak shield that delivers to China wants to charge $230 per thing.
feel like i was getting better temps from when i only had a 240aio and no other fans
might try putting in a 280aio and see what happens
AM5 is designed to run up to 95C without throttling so anything below that is great
fair but this was suppose to be an upgrade in thermals since i was going with a bigger case
Bigger case doesn't always mean better thermals
That's usually bigger fans on the bigger cases that do that
yeh, but its made by the same designer to better achieve thermals/fit larger gpus
You can buy most of the stuff very cheap on the streets though
Anything you can find on aliexpress you can find in a market in China
Fair. The PC markets are pretty decent in China.
Will keep the budget at 1200 for now and all goes well I can get all the parts for like 800-1000 by buying them in person if it's available in the Chinese computer markets.
....... The Aquacomputer ULTITUBE D5 Next 100 PRO Pump/Reservoir Combo with Leak Guard costs $400 each after import/shipping in China. With that type of cost I am wondering if just one is strong enough to move water through two 560mm Monsta rads.
Yes, a single D5 can easily push through that
I am considering going the start with 1 pump and in the future once you got more monies saved buy another pump route.
Cause $900 and I don't even got fittings, tubes, or tube bending kit yet.
That's good to know. Gonna start with a single loop, and overtime as I save up add another loop till I got the triple loop then.
What tubes and fittings do you recommend?
PMMA tubes, fittings you can pick what looks good
PMMA is shatter resistant, easier to cut without having sharp edges, and doesn't blister as easily when heated
Aighty.
Also, how does the 560mm xt45 rads compare to the Monsta variant?
I can't seem to find the 560mm Monsta variants on Amazon.
Dual of either would be more than enough
Fair. Though I am curious.
Arrived in less than 24 hours
Amazing
Hi!
Did anybody know if the Lian-li uni-fan P28 fit in the back of Lancool 216? Especially for the thickness... The Lian-li support just tell me any 120 mm fan...
At worst, I gonna find a Noctua fan... 😛
I'm talking about the 'Rear fan' that seem recommanded with high-end graphics cards...
You don't need that fancy of a fan
How important is the rear 140mm exhaust in a custom loop? I’m thinking about just mounting a reservoir on it
I’m not cooling SSD and RAM
Yeah, but I'm just saying
Cause the cpu and gpu will already be in the loop
There's no coolers that needs to move air
The fans on the rad will provide the airflow some stuff will need
Also is it necessary that the reservoir goes straight into the pump?
@marsh badge which fan you recommand?
I don't really know, but I'd guess the shortest path would be best
As for fans
Arctic P12 would do the job just fine
Direct die or normal block? Hmmm
ho... Artic P12 is available in white ...
If you don't need the leak shield you can buy a d5 pretty cheap
Like $60 or something like that from freeze mod if I'm remembering right
I'd also say go for a thinner higher fpi rad unless you are going semi passive for radiator
Like gtx or koolance 30fpi
Maybe even gtr if you're going high static pressure
Oh wait, you're in China right?
It might be cheaper for you to go with the old version of the bykski rc rad
They are like $69 I think unless they finally sold out
You have any idea if EK’s direct die LGA1700 block is any good? I’m hearing mixed opinions
Trying to see if it’s worth delidding my 13900k
Going with either dual 560mm XT45 or Monsta rads from Alpha cool was the plan since this build will be using the Thermaltake Tower 900.
As tempting as not getting a Leak shield sounds, I don't want to take any risks with potentially killing 5 grand worth of hardware because I cheaper out.
Damnit, bykski sent me the wrong water block, I got a water block for a gigabyte Gaming OC 6900xt
Time to wait another 5 days for the new one to show up
One with alot of fins
It sucks. It has like 0.3mm or more height variance on contact plate which means stupid high temps if you use liquid metal and if you aren't using liquid metal no point going direct die.
I think there is one by ice man you could use instead that's actually usable
There should be 560mm options for all the rads I mentioned. They will simply perform better and take less space and other than gtx or gtr would cost less. Monsta is just a really thick low fpi rad. It's meant more for low rpm rigs that are semi passive but it's not that good relative to most 60mm rads and some 45mm rads unfortunately.
L
I'd be pretty upset
30
25-30
https://www.xtremerigs.net/2015/02/11/radiator-round-2015/5/
This is a nice starting point for radiator research
It has enough of a base sample that you can usually find something to compare to other reviews too to help compare parts more effectively
I’ll just go for the standard one then, rather not mess around with delidding for the first time on a 13900k
If not deliding is say go Optimus or tech N
What about the EK Quantum Velocity2? I absolutely love the way it looks
It looks cool but not a great performer and stupid overpriced imo
How much worse does it perform to other options?
Depends on the rest of the loop but I like to think of it kinda like how a gtx xx60 card would be while the others are kinda like what a gtx xx90 or 80ti would be for waterblock
In reality for most loops probably just a few c and maybe more on more overkill loops but it not like it's unusable
Just really bad price basically imo
I’m going to be running 2 360 rads, a 420 rad, 2 D5 pumps and a cpu block and gpu block
Yea, I'd def say go for a higher surface area block then
System is a 13900k and 6950xt
Your liquids probably gonna be pretty close to ambient and flow speed won't be a big issue
The velocity would limit your loop a bit
Lmk if you want any help overclocking the 6950xt
Ahh ok, do you have any recommendations for a block that would look good with a Z790 Aorus Master?
Mobo for reference
I put the 6950xt ahead of the 4080 on firestrike leaderboards lol
…and I thought I was doing well with it 
Optimus or techN's Intel blocks
I’ll definitely take you up on that
Bruh Optimus has a month long wait
And I can’t find a techN LGA1700 block
Is the Watercool heat killer IV any good?
Basically within margin of error of TechN
I think I’ll get the HK4 then
Unless I can find an Optimus block somewhere that won’t take a month
Gotcha. Also thanks for helping me out.
I am gonna browse through that site you just sent but which rads do you recommend then that are 560mm with high fin density?
Gtx or koolance 30fpi are my go to
I would like to take advantage of the Tower 900's obnoxious radiator support once I get it.
Ideally koolance cause it's much cheaper and with high enough pressure fans does a bit better
What brand is the GTX from?
Hardware labs
Yep, those are the rads I got
A 360 and a 420 GTX, and a 360 GTS
Nice beefy build LOL
Can't find a GTX rad that ships to China in Amazon. Now looking for Koolance
Found the GTX 420mm though.
@harsh crow in China the old bykski rc might be ideal
Any ideas on how I can fit a FLT360 reservoir into a Lancool III if I already have 2 360rads and a 420?
Tbh not sure
Stick it outside xD.
I’m being lazy and don’t want to deal with returning a bunch of stuff at once
Already returning a mono block and a pump
I got an insane amount of rads in haf700 though lol
Bought the mobo block because it was $70 and worth a gamble because it was made for a Z690 Aorus Master and not a Z790
Got 3x 360mm rads and a 240 all in push pull then a 200x400 in the front
DAMN
Very likely won't be compatible
If you can still return I'd say do so
Oh it mounts on fine with a bit of mods
But I can’t get the IO plastic housing on with the mono block on
Yeah everything is making contact
How bad is the maintenance on that.....?
Only thing different between the two boards is the IO panel
Cause I know z height changed
Oh Z height changed?
That's good
Oh wait
You said z690
Nm
I'm dumb
Lol
Yeah it’s definitely different than my Z590
Not bad
Dual loop so really easy to swap parts too
I use koolance 702 so fluid is pretty insanely resilient
I do prefer the look of this though so I’m returning the monoblock
Would love to see the PC, mind sending a pic?
Real shame I can’t wait the 4 weeks for that Optimus foundation block, I love the look of it so much
Looks amazing.
Thx 🙏
How often do you need to do maintenance?
Super based!
Oc formula
That's like my biggest concern with water cooling.
Tbh, I could probably leave it running 3 years with nothing done cause the fluid I use
OP of a card for $650
But I do cooling mods every so often
I use the same one lol
Oh wow. What fluid? I'd be happy if I can leave my system as is for a year at a time.
My top firestrike score beat the top 4080 score with it lol
Koolance 702
Oh sick, so the 6900xt bykski block fits without issues?
Yeah I have pads ready to go
What changed your mind?
Found out the shims I sanded just 1/10th of a mm too thick and didn't want to sand them again though so I just used my 20w/mk pads
Literally just me being lazy lol
Might go pack and put them back in later
Damn what pads are you using?
Think it’s worth returning the thermalright pads?
Might be why I can barely increase my mem clocks
You can still use them on things like vrm and chokes and backplate but for the memory I'd use good pads
And also do you just have some god of a 6950 or something? I can’t get my core clock stable above 2775 mhz iirc
Ahh ok
Can get it up to 3ghz
Most I brought my voltage up was to 1225
and that didn’t really help clocks at all so I brought it back down to 1.2V
You can definitely bench with more if on water
I've been using 1350mv while trying to get my timespy scores to make sense
Yeah I’m really looking forward to getting this loop done
I’m just doing one big single loop though so not sure how that’ll be compared to a dual loop
If you can send me pics of your mpt profile I could help you tune it
What's your fclk at?
I know a lot of people cap between 1250 and 1300 fclk
Don’t remember, my PC is kinda apart rn
No worries
Because I was planning on starting building the loop td but NOOO, bykski had to send me the wrong block
But all I really touched in MPT was my PL iirc
Yea, I'd be pissed lol
But at least now you know the block will work for sure
Lol yeah
My block after sanding round 2
This was the first round of sanding
Less flat but more shiney but I care more about flatness
YOOO LETS GOO, THE FLT360 FITS
Now the fill port will be a PAIN to get to, but it fits
build once, regret later
It fits
Don’t think I’ll be able to pull off a push pull 420 with it though
Actually maybe? It’ll be a bit of a squeeze
Main issue is the fill port being blocked by a rad
DIY fill port time?
Possibly
I have a 240mm version of it coming in soon so I’ll see which one will look better
Because so far the 360 looks CLEAN
Also I’m guessing the Corsair cpu blocks are bad?
Meh
I think I’ll just route a piece of soft tubing that I’ll have hidden away as a fill port
Too expensive for average perf
I love the way the Optimus blocks look but lead times are 4 weeks for them
And I can’t have my PC down for that long waiting for a block
Not yet unfortunately
Which kinda sucks
Cause rn they are just the best performers
Even Optimus falls behind them
I wanted a heatkiller block personally but they're hard to find for AM4 now...
Use the techN Speedrun strat lol
But unironically ist a pretty nice small company
Kinda cool that they have such good performance
That's all you really need to succeed in the end. Name recognition is one thing but if you make a genuinely good product, people will notice.
They just need to send more review samples out tbh
Cause their main review is from igors lab
But it showed them kinda destroying every block
I guess heatkiller IV it is then 
Found one for AM4 on Amazon for $150
Which one because not all of them were good. I specifically was looking for a full copper one.
Yeah that was one of the ones I would pass on, all nickel plated and I'm not a huge fan of the acetyl either.
So nickel plated I should pass on?
Nah this is just my personal opinion, it's usually fine
Ahh ok
Bruh I can’t find a LGA1700 block in stock anywhere
At this rate it’s looking like I’ll be buying that velocity2 block
These had some of the absolute best performance out of all AM4 blocks https://shop.watercool.de/HEATKILLERZ-IV-PRO-AMD-AM4-AM5-PURE-COPPER
Tbh, I'd turn to bykski first
I guess they adapted the design to fit AM5 too so they fit both, so yay there's more
After them sending me the wrong gpu block, I’m trying to avoid them
They also don’t make a LGA1700 block iirc
Dang, lga 1700 really is more option dry than I thought it was rn
So I’m basically stuck with EK, cheap aliexpress options, or wait a month for an Optimus block
Or wait for the HK4 to go back in stock
Yea, I think they beat Optimus even. Only techN beat them in igors test and not by some massive margin. Heatkiller CPU blocks are mega based
They also beat the magnitude
Ok so it looks like the heatkiller I want is only in stock in Germany where they're made so it'll be some time before the adapted AM4/AM5 design is readily available. Good, I'm not ready to buy yet anyway.
optimus > HK
Every company will make a mistake regardless if it's trash or the best in the world. That seems like an unideal reason for avoid a company IMO.
If someone is averse to a company I'll just go with it. People can be petty. "I had a MSI board die after 6 months 10 years ago so now I don't touch their products"
sigh Ok dude I'll pick another then (is how that usually goes)
Yeah I know, I just don’t feel like risking another chance of sending a wrong item again putting the build on delay for another week
And either way, they don’t make Lga1700 blocks
Is it viable to use the drain port of a loop also as fill port if you flip the PC upside to fill it?
It depends on the reservoir
But even with the right res you won't be able to drain it completely that way
does anyone know if i can use a cpu_opt port or cpu_fan port as a case fan port substitute because my motherboard only has 3 sys_fan slots
is it ever a good idea to reuse a cooler from an old pc
say, a prebuilt that doesn't really work well anymore
well temporarily anyway
Depends on its design and brackets
mm okay
I was planning on making an attempt to wait on the money for my new cooler by putting an old on over the cpu
it's one used for an Intel CPU though
just can't post image
For a Lian li o11d white mid atx, how should I have the intake and exhaust setup?
I will be using a aio cooler
Aio top mounted as exhaust, side and bottom as intake
Ok, how bout for the rear?
Exhaust
Ok thx
Is that a custom GTX 1080 ti?
Big ass radiator
Ironically I think other than my 240mm it's worse than each one in my case kek
CPU_FAN should be used for, well, the CPU fan, but the OPT one you can use. It'll be set to the same speed as the main CPU fan header, but you can change that on some boards.
Some cool radiator pics I took in the past
u sure that this is enough fans? i would say no
Never enough
do you think the Fractal Design Focus G is Good? because it stands in my room in it's box (unopened still for now) is good?
well, i heard that the USB Ports have problems
It's fine, but poor to build in from what I've heard, there's definitely better options for the price these days
Focus g is just kinda bad in all regards imo, if you have another option, use the other option.
Airflow isn't that good with the thicc front filter, fan mounting is weird, there's no room in the back for cable management with any braided cables, not a lot of room to build with in general in the main chamber, etc
@digital wedge Do I use the stock back plate for the Bykski 6900xt water block or does it come with one?
well, it stands in my Room already...
but not yet opened at all, it got Sent here and i haven't opened any of the Cartons
If you can try to resell it, I'd do it, if your budget doesn't allow for anything nicer, it's a case
I hate mine
well, it was planned to be used to replace my current case.
Pretty rare for stock backplate to work. Screw sizes are different, so are backplate sizes cuz no extended heatsink.
You mean backplate?
It comes with one
Lots of options on Ali don't come with one.
I own the block he's talking about lol
We have the same card
It's a really beefy back plate too
Lot of thermal mass
Kinda crazy how well made bykski blocks have gotten in recent years
@languid gale heres a pic of it
Yes, and that doesn't mean it'll always come with a backplate. On Ali there are many listings of cards without backplates despite a specific backplate existing for that block (that, or options in the listing to not have a backplate for slightly cheaper price). I have two (three, but one BNIB to sell) 3090TUF blocks, one with and one without a backplate.
What?
No
This sounds like it was written by someone who hasn't used AliExpress and has it viewed like some boogey man of scams
It basically like amazon
It's not some magic lawless land where it's rng what you get
Bruh, literally just search up listings on Ali. It straight up will say "yes/no backplate". Its not a scam, its an option (sometimes split up as different listings, sometimes same listing with options).
Sometimes it also is RNG too lol. The kits I got were RNG based.
It really isn't
Can't say that when I have literally gotten RNG experience from kits. But kits are a different type of thing cuz you don't get info on specific block serial number (thus no clue if you get plate).
Regardless, just cuz someone bought the same block doesn't mean they also have a backplate, unless you know they bought the exact same listing as you.
Was my actual point.
Could you give more details cause it really sounds like you haven't used AliExpress from the previous comment
Also sounds like you haven't used bykski. They have pretty generic designs gen to gen and the design for that block and similar requires a backplate
They don't have a no backplate option
Kits don't come with defined GPU blocks. You give a PCB design and they pick whatever works. Unless you specify what you want, you don't get any guarantee of backplates.
4 screws are directly mounted to the board but the rest are partially ribbed and run through a plate to add mounting pressure
What? He didn't get a water-cooling kit
He got a GPU block for the 6900xt ocf
You said stuff wasn't RNG, I made a counterpoint that RNG is possible in certain ways. Regardless, you still missed my point that listings have options for choosing whether you want a backplate or not.
Sometimes those options are literally split into separate listings.
Buy certain listing from a certain seller that has no options but specifies "no passive backplate", you get no passive backplate. Even if a backplate exists for that GPU model.
Again
It's not optional
I own the block
I shopped for it
I know what listings there are
Lol
I also used it
I know it requires the plate with both the way packaging and mounting is designed
To answer your question it comes with a backplate
Lol
You're gonna mount it with 4 spring screws that are around the GPU die and the rest will go through the actual backplate to add mounting pressure
@languid gale what paste are you using btw
You do?
Yes its unavailable, but a listing still exists regardless.
I don't think it was ever available lol
Cause they aren't going to buy new mounting screws and standoffs and make new packaging just to not include it
And he didn't even use AliExpress
There are also a few listings where you may have to buy the backplate separately. Few listings seem a bit whack. So try not to blanket statement "lol that doesn't exist, do you even use Ali".
Dude
Stop
You're arguing to argue
It comes with a backplate and it's that simple
No, I'm telling you to not be so quick to judge.
Has anyone tried or seen someone use a vertical mount on a GPU inside the tower 900?
You assumed he bought it from Ali and assumed Ali is sketch and seemingly assumed bykski is some half scam inconsistent company and you're telling me not to be quick to judge...
Im deciding between KPX or MX4
Kpx for sure
Is it fine to daily?
Yea
Okay
It's a great past to work with too
I used the thermal grizzly stuff that came with my monoblock on the CPU so I hope that’s fine
Is there any issues with using liquid metal on a copper water block or AIO block?
Thermal grizzly stuff is too overpriced imo
If it’s nickel plated then I think it’s fine
LM on bare copper, no go I’m pretty sure
It came with my monoblock so not a big deal
It's nickel
Also is it true that all fans on the rads should be either exhaust or intake?
What happens if it's contacting bare copper?
Not a mix of both
No.
All should be intake ideally
Okay thanks
You can do push pull which is a mix.
That’s not what I meant
It stains
Is that corrosion?
Not exactly
Yeah
Oh my bad. Thought you were talking about push vs pull configs.
On that IHS at least it is
From what I understand it's basically gallium plating the copper
Kinda like how you nickel plate but without a fluid between them
Because the difference in charge
Is the staining bad?
Gotcha. Wanted to know for the future build since I plan to use a open loop and liquid metal.
So I should make sure the CPU block is nickle plated.
It's not a big deal if it isn't
Yeah. Idk how to tell you this in a simpler way. Look up the definition of options. Look at every single message I've sent. Notice how each one says OPTIONS.
Now I'll say this again, options exist, and some sellers give the customer options. In the case of the A-RX6900XT-X it's pretty rare and questionably nonexistent. I've never hinted at scams. Idk why you seem to think I have. So yes, you are quick to judge as you don't read what others say and assume some really bad case scenario. So just please read what others have to say and not assume the worst. Its all I ask.
Is this your chip
Hell no
Dude, just drop it
Seriously
Convo passed a long time ago
And he already got his answer
@harsh crow what liquid metal are you using btw?
If by a long time you mean 30 minutes sure. All he did was ask a question.
Or are you still deciding
If you haven't decided yet cool laboratory tends to be pretty good value
Or silver king
Nice places to start looking
Not using any.
Not at the moment at least.
Another good investment is conformal coating if you go liquid metal
And kapton tape is another good thing to use
Or clear nail Polish
I am a long term planner so I am trying to learn as much as I can about open loops and cooling solutions and such for when I do my dream build in around 8-12 months come RTX 5000 series and Ryzen 8000 series.
That too
Huh????
But some use oxides that can be conductive
And I think there is a specific base that's conductive that some use
So requires some research into ingredients
To keep the LM from going where it shouldn’t
Been awhile since I looked into which you need to avoid
Oh okay.
But yea, with some research nail polish can be a cheap conformal coat
So nail polish or kapton tape is your recommendations for wrapping around the CPU so the LM doesn't touch the board correct?
If you're planning for long term don't do liquid metal. You need to change it every 6 months or so or else it both dries out, becoming less effective, and can start bonding your CPU to the cooler permanently.
A good paste will last a few years, and there's some really cool stuff coming like the graphite pads that get nearly as good performance as liquid metal but never have to be changed.
I think you got that backwards
Liquid metal doesn't dry cause it's not based on an oil or water base
I think gn and der8aur made some cool videos on this too so it's not just in theory but in practice too
Graphite or graphene?
It doesn't "dry" in a traditional sense sure but it does harden as it reacts with the surrounding metals
graphene mb
It wont
It will form a base coat around the copper
But then it's only contacting itself
Okay that makes a lot more sense.
So no charge difference
Gn made a video testing this too
So it's not just in theory
In practice liquid metal doesn't change over time in performance
Although after enough applications if you keep reusing it you will eventually run out of have some become oxide if exposed to oxygen long term
But on the die or heat spreader it won't be contacting oxygen
So LM works long term but if used on bare copper will form a coating that could fuse the CPU to the waterblock?
We tested liquid metal for a one-year period, trying to determine how often you should change liquid metal to keep peak performance in this case study.
Ad: Grab something from the GN store to support us! https://store.gamersnexus.net/
Article: https://www.gamersnexus.net/guides/3359-liquid-metal-aging-one-year-test-how-often-to-replace-liquid-m...
Won't fuse
Will more just stain it
Got it.
Because the charge difference
The stain can be fixed with a bit of lapping?
..... I know true sanding pain.
I sanded a sapphire for a whole day straight.
Same for emeralds.
I think thermal grizzly showed off a metal mixed graphene pad that performed like a paste
Sanded a techN block flat and it took a whole day lol
Got it flat enough to squeegee the glass I sanded it over with
Although tbh I prefer working with liquid metal over graphene pads
Graphene pads in my experience are too fragile and light and a huge pain to get in place
Ok so the case I saw of the cooler bonding to the CPU was caused by someone that didn't do their research and used an aluminum air cooler. So it chewed right through the aluminum.
Yea, with aluminum it will react violently lol
Before and after image of a gem I sanded down a while back took me a day and a half.
But besides that liquid metal will basically last the life of your system and then some
Nice!
I couldn't feel my arm afterwards lmao.
Thanks.
I completely get the pain lmfao
Never try to shape a emerald or sapphire through hand sanding. Learned that the hard way.
Took me 3 days just to purge like a quarter inch out of a emerald.
I've been thinking of making a sanding belt
You'd need diamond sandpaper to make that less of a pain
Maybe making a conveyor belt and having the center run over a piece of glass for leveling
For hand sanding?
In general but yeah
That's what I had.....
Really? Sheesh it mush have needed more rough diamond on it then
I used grits ranging from 80-150-400-800
By "more rough diamond" I mean "more diamond"
I can see that being confusing lol
Is this after lapping?
Rough diamond as in uncut
Yep
Looks great.
Went for flatness instead of shine
First go I went for shine but got it less flat
How do you test for how flat it is?
If I can squeegee glass with it without air or water getting through or any scratching then it's flat enough lol
Squeegee?
Like clean water off without it getting under
So you press it against glass and put water on the glass?
Gotcha.
It's also pretty obvious how flat it is from a quick light reflection test
First run it was slightly indented in the center
@digital wedge whats your lapping process
I usually go from 80 to 240 to 500 to 800 to 1000 to 1200 to a slight run at 1400 then 2000 then 3000
This bend look okay?
Yea
Let’s gooo, first bend ever
I completely ruined my first ever bend lol
So super based and natural skill pilled there
Yo
He's just better
Don't doubt my boy lmaoo
If only he saw my sketchy tools
I’m using this to tighten the fittings down
My tools are mega diy and stitch ngl
Lol
BRUHHHH
I was cutting the tube and it cracked
Am I not supposed to use a pipe cutter?
Could you link one?
Actually nvm, I’ll just use a band saw
Did a few tests and it works fine
I’m way too proud of this
Nah
Triple bend is something to be proud of
Especially if it's your first hard loop
I even avoid them
And I've done too many loops lol
I just went over it with a level and it’s basically perfect
Only maybe a degree or two off
lm fuses to copper
check my banner, 9920x sanded flat after like 3 months of LM
makes an alloy
A band saw works way too well for acrylic tubing
@digital wedge could you talk me through installing this water block? No instructions were given and can’t find anything online
Is there a fan that doesn’t quite reach noctua/t30 pricing but better than the p12?
You will also want pads behind GPU core and vrms and memory
Mainly just memory and fire I'd say are necessary though
And on the chokes for some reason it has pads
What thickness pads for the back?
I think 3mm should be fine for the back of VRMs and memory?
Back of core
And if you want behind vrm too
How important is VRM?
Because I kinda ran out of pads
Unless I want to use the ones that came with the block
Not very
Tbh, for vrm use the ones that came with it only
It's only important when you get into higher power draw scenarios
The stock ones are fine yeah
Should I also put it on the top of the black rectangles? definitely didn’t forget what they’re called
Did you put a pad on the MLCC caps? lol
(reverse side of the core)
Those don't get hot. Like, at all.
Unless you got an active backplate and are trying to sink some extra heat away from the core. A passive backplate won't do that effectively.
Meh, it's got a lot of thermal mass
It's like 6 backplates in one
Still, it needs a way to dissipate that heat once it saturates
Probably doesn't do a ton but it definitely soaks some heat from the back
Just passive airflow from the case will do enough
What GPU is this anyway
It's got a decent bit of surface area still on top of that thermal mass
6950xt ocf
Oh yeah that'll be fine
I set all the 6950xt firestrike records with the same GPU and block he has rn lol
Also, how do I screw this backplate on?
@languid gale if you want I also put some over the connectors of the power pins
The screws that came with the block are no where close to long enough
Just cause at 800w+ power draw they can get hot lol
Which ones?
The spring ones you need to push in while twisting
Oh
They don’t even go through the backplate
Yeah I did
These are no where close to getting through the back plate
If they can't touch just use the stock pads on the back
The washers you won't need
It should have some long screws?
I’m blind, they were in a different bag
The build is being put on hold again till Wednesday until my SSDs come in LOL
Just bought 3 2TB Acer Predator GM7000s
bruh
I got 5 M.2 slots in the mobo, imma use 5 M.2 slots
7400MB/s
I have two cause I didnt buy x570
My X570 also only had 2 M.2s iirc
Oh 
GPU is in
Looking gooood
Lol it’s a great PSU
Had an HX750 before it
4 bends in one tube? How badly can I screw this up 
Rn I have gf1 850w but I hit opp on firestrike ultra with my firestrike profile
My X570 also only has 2
They CAN have more
But B550 can also have 4
Proof
MEG Unify B550 has 4
And the Unify-X X570S Max has 5
Hmm
wish my Strix b550f had more but its whatever
I can always just buy sata ssds that are what a couple seconds slower in game lmao
loll
Open world games could take a full 2 seconds longer to load though, this was a more extreme example
Proof u dont need gen 4 for games lol
Technically margin of error but still 
Im sure that will change tho if u ran the test a few times
STOP TYPING FASTER THAN ME LMAO
Did they say what ssd's they used
Yeah they did, hang on I'll bring up the vid
SSD M.2 PCIe 3.0 - Samsung 970 EVO Plus 1TB
SSD SATA3 - Samsung 860 Evo-Series 1TB
SSD M.2 PCIe 4.0 - Gigabyte Aorus NVMe Gen4 SSD 1TB
SSD M.2 NVMe PCIe 3.0 vs SSD M.2 NVMe PCIe 4.0 vs SSD SATA III Win10 / Game Loading Times
Buy computer hardware at newegg.com - https://bit.ly/2Bvz3AN
Games :
Windows 10 - 0:00
Assassin's Creed Odyssey - 0:23
Red Dead Redemption 2 - 1:04
Forza Horizon 4 - 1:54
Battlefield V - 2:18
Jedi : Fallen Order - 2:46
All 3 SSDs were almost completely ...
A bit dated but still very relevant
And this is on a Ryzen 3600 with 3600 MT/s memory
A more normal result compared to open world
Sata is still pretty fast indeed

Anyone got any idea if these are any good? https://www.bykski.us/products/granzon-g-1-4in-male-to-female-multi-directional-free-rotary-elbow-fitting-gd-x?variant=39424798589026
The Granzon G 1/4in. Male to Female Multi Directional Free Rotary Elbow Fitting is a 360 degree swivel solution for trying to change direction quickly within your loop. This rotary elbow can be positioned up to 41 degrees away from center in any direction. Specifications Thread: G 1/4 Compatibility Loop: Non-Aluminum I
They might be my only way to make an easy connection between my pump and rad
They are bykski's premium line and their normal fittings are already usually the best you can get so probably good
Like unironically bykski fittings smoke bitspower
Which is funny asf cause usually they are good value but not unironically any price endgame
I just took a PSU fan out of a now dead PSU. The fan is extremely and I have no wipes or compressed air canisters to clean it properly with. What would I do in this scenario?
Just shove it on the side of the sink where it's not being dunked entirely in water but use the spray hose to get the blades? (joking obviously)
I assume you mean extremely dirty
yeah...
Paper towels
Ngl, I've washed some fans with water
Don't get the fan too wet around the motor but it can get pretty wet
Mainly ball bearing server fans
I asked because I already hung it beside a sink and hosed just the edges which helped a lot lol
That's fine, you can use a wet paper towel for the rest
kinda got inside which would possibly get the bearings a little bit funny but meh
it's not a main fan
Give it extra time to dry then if water got in there
Imma just do some jank stuff with a bunch of fittings
Cheaper and I don’t have to wait for shipping
I know that J can move the back case fan on my pc and use this as a third fan but it would have no speed control lol
Would it be worth replacing my PSU fan with a P12?
If I decide to go hard tubing I'll probably avoid bends and just use fittings to do all my turns lol
No
meh noise isn't a bad concern
I can still sleep
Especially cause I think cxm has a good fan
plus it's in the back so meh
Also p12 aren't great
Do not open your PSU, there are parts in there that can kill you
Those sound amazing
I work with a lot higher voltages than a PSU on the daily, I know what I’m doing
I also work and build vacuum tube amplifiers fairly enough to know what to do and what not to do
Based
I only opened my PSU for these
Thing's dead, but I'm still reusing parts instead of trashing it. The rest will be recycled in some form as well.
I used to repair my own amps and energizers
That's not the issue at hand. Also there's no guarantee the fan uses a standard 4 pin header.
Shocked myself on an e90 once
RMx stock fan stays in
Stung a bit
RMx fan is already fantastic
That would do it
Not enough current to kill though lol
Also, got a new CPU cooler. The PSU isn't in since I don't have a working one and the GPU isn't because I'm putting that in when everything's good
Great thing about energizers
I got a bit of a scar from zapping myself with a 750V 1A line lmao
Usually almost no current
Good times
Me opening a 750w corsair unit at 12 to steal the fan
My job rn I’m working with around 2-3000V at ~5mA
Testing Geiger counters and ionization chambers is fun
If you do make sure it's been unplugged for at least 6 months, the bulk caps hold power for a LONG time

Yeah
Or you make a sketchy discharging tool, 2 100k resistors attached to a banana plug in a bic pen housing
Then attach the other end of that to an alligator clip and you’re good to go
I tot u designed jewellery

Oh I also do LMAO
He's a man of many trades

Jewelry is just on the side

This is beautiful
Nuclear engineering is my main career
He also robs convenience stores
How do u think bros driving a benz at 19 smh
Nah, I only kidnap 16 y/o kids in New Jersey named Daniel to throw into my basement and force them to pedal bikes to power my house
rEaL
16 year olds now
U forgot to give me my extra ration a few days ago
Bro ur buying 3080 Ti's at 13 idk where u think I draw the line with reality here 💀
LOL
13
Yeah, still looking for cheaper ones
I actually have the money now
But ebay and hwswap were kinda ass the other day
ill check again
Kids these days
I used to ask for a video game for my b'day
Wtf
How did that become the cheap ass route
huh
Gramps used to tell me they got clothes
Danny sponsored by hugo boss
This is money from my old gpu and from all of my family
No shot I could get this much from just my mom lol
Wow
LMAO


