#old-cooling
1 messages · Page 3 of 1
Technically yes but not much. A 420mm should be plenty.
Got it.
Also I just found out why it says my mobo won't fit.
The case assumes that you use a E-ATX up to 10.5in and the mobo I picked out is 10.89 inches however it has cuts to make it so the cable management and etc would fit.
However Corsair's site doesn't seem to recognize this.
That's a common issue. E-ATX isn't a real standard so they can just do what they want and call it that as long as it's longer than ATX.
Ahh didn't know that.
But yea, the mobo I picked should fit the case just fine but Corsair's site doesn't realize it.
The cutout on the right is what I am talking about.
You'll need to get very creative with wires and tubes
What's the next closest mobo within $500?
Mhmmm.
I can think of some interesting combos.
Just to double check.
The exit for the water from blocks are on the right yes?
I should be getting my new desk tomorrow so I will get out my drawing tablet then and try to think of some cool Tube formations.
Water can flow however you like through the loop.
As far as motherboard I'd personally go aorus master or ultra.
Mhmmm. Lmao, I had a really odd thought of making a tube formation that looks like xXx just now.
Well it's getting late, I will think of some ideas tomorrow.
Ok, g'night
Though I think having xXx tubing shape inside the case would be cool for a Attack Helicopter case would be cool, what about you?
It might look cool but that'll be difficult to bend the tubes where they still look good
You'll have to think three dimensionally to plan the tubes out
Yeah. Well then I better brain storm tomorrow as the mobo I picked out happens to rotate everything.
By the way, do you know of any other mobo's that perform the same with all the bells and whistles within $500?
Well, good night and see you tomorrow. Ping me if your on, I'd love to hang out and discuss some fun tubing ideas, blocks to use, etc.
@timid carbon what is a good cpu cooler for 3,000
3,000
thats more than enough
ok
same cooler pretty much
get whichever
i get that one
which u tell me
.
this one
Morning peeps.
Looking at some other mobos, my fella peep.
Don't use aluminum and copper waterblocks/rads, etc in the same system correct?
Correct
What is the best LGA1700 waterblock on the market currently?
What is the performance difference between these two water blocks?
The CORSAIR Hydro X Series XC8 RGB JTC CPU Water Block, developed in partnership with JayzTwoCents, combines premium construction, vivid RGB lighting, and a custom forged carbon trim with all-black bracket and screws. An advanced copper cold plate with more than 110 high-efficiency micro-cooling ...
Pacific MX2 Ultra has a 2.1 Inch LCS Display that presents real-time information and even plays JPG and GIF files with 480*480 resolution, bringing great visual aesthetics and highly customizable functions to your water block. The water block incorporates a central inlet design that allows coolan...
alright cooling question - I have a build in this case https://www.tecware.co/fusion
5 arctic p12s, a dual fan gpu, and (currently) a stock ryzen cooler. The fan setup is this:
green is intake, red is exhaust, yellow/blue are cpu/gpu
dotted outline is mounted on the side bracket
Now, I'm going to be swapping the stock cpu cooler for a tower cooler and want to change the fans around a bit. Here's my proposed layout but I'm open to suggestions:
if you want clarification on anything just ask :)
So I'm installing the cpu cooler
And apparently my backplate is really loose
My old cooler wasn't loose
So I'm pretty confused
Was it always loose?
How would I secure it?
I must've missed something when installing it
Ugh
The stock Ryzen cooler is downdraft, so having the side as intake is highly recommended so it's not fighting the cooler
The backplate should be fairly secure once the cooler is torqued down. It might have a little bit of play still.
I might have to take the mobo out, pretty sure to press it down
Because it doesn't full pop up
Wait
Mightve gotten it
Yay got it
Doesn't wiggle and it's secure
I screwed it in corner by corner
Pretty sure that's how you do it
Off topic, but is there a way to remove this?
Black bar thing
Hm, nevermind
Is there a certain way to apply the thermal grease?
It just gave me a small little bag of it
This?
Slightly off center damn itb
It should be fine, right?
Lmao
I thought it was pre applied
Like the stock cooler
It's supposed to stand up a bit, right?
Cooler itself is pretty tight
Doesn't move
Yeah the video shows that
Installing the fan was awful
towers don't usually have it pre applied, just stock cooler and aios. also just confirming any film was peeled off, like so.
It already idles some 10° cooler then stock

All arctic fan gaming pc when
I think the only fans in my pc that aren't arctic, is the gpu fans
With the old cooler, the gta benchmark got it to some 70ish°
Now it's solidly under 60°
What's a good cpu stress test?
Cinebench, right?
Can loop cinebench yeah
I'll do the 10 minute test
As I clean my mess
In cinebench, it pretty much stays at 4.15ghz
And stays under 65°
I'll call it a win
Temps 9 and half minutes into the 10 minute test
Compared to stock? I'm happy
Get the noctua 3070/3080 and switch the fans lol
Yeah it's a unicorn. They didn't make many and they sold out instantly.
GAMDIAS Aeolus M2 1204R 120 MM ARGB CASE & Radiator Fan 4 in 1 with Controller and Remote https://amzn.eu/d/70x2oKU is this good
AEOLUS M2-1204R RGB fan produces massive cooling power quietly and emits bold RGB lighting from both sides. Customize lighting via the included remote controller or compatible motherboard sync software. Through AEOLUS Box II with daisy chain technology, you can add as many fans as possible. Equip...
no
Why
Ok i check
yep 3 fan pack costs the same
here it is
just 3 is fine enough
And argb control
you can chain the fans up in a daisy chain
and control the rgb through the motherboard
U can do that
yeah, if the board has an argb header it would work
Ooo ok
This one MSI PRO H610M-G DDR4 Motherboard - Supports Intel 12th Gen (LGA 1700), Micro-ATX, 2 DIMMs, 1x PCIe 4.0 x16, 1x M.2 Gen3, USB 3.2 Gen1, 1G LAN, HDMI 2.1, DP 1.4, VGA https://amzn.eu/d/blAUUL0 ?
The PRO H610M-G DDR4 is a business-oriented micro-ATX motherboard featuring the latest Intel H610 chipset that includes legacy-friendly display connectivity. Designed for value-oriented businesses that run Intel 12th Gen Core processors (LGA 1700), the motherboard can support the latest PCIe 4.0 ...
it has two of them
2x 3-pin RAINBOW LED connectors
this is what the specs listed in msi site
Can I connect 5 argb fan to it
um, if you use that much a controller will be needed
since the header won't be able to supply enough power
and would just end up being fried
Ok
So is that good
This
i already said no to that
Ok
What is good I need 4 120mm argb fan and a control
Cooler Master MasterBox MB311L ARGB Micro-ATX Airflow PC case with Two pre-Installed ARGB Fans, a Fine Mesh Front Panel, Mesh Side Intakes, & Tempered Glass Side Panel https://amzn.eu/d/2LbE83Z
you just put one extra fan on the exhaust
the case already comes with two big intake fans on the front
Ok i get this and buy a argb control
I don't get it
Is it connect?
Ok
cpu now maxes at 67C in cinebench with the $20 cooler upgrade, plus it's wayyy quieter :)
What cpu do you have?
5600X
And I was actually using a 3600x stock cooler not the smaller one that comes with the 5600x
Can someone please provide suggestions on this fan config:
Case: Corsair 5000 X
CPU:. i9 12900KS
GPU: 3090 Ti MSI Suprim X
MB: ASUS ROG Maximus Z690 Hero
Cooler: Corsair i150 Elite LCD
Fan configuration:
- 3 intake in from (360)
- 3 intake on the side (360)
- 6 exhaust on top (360 + 360 on the rad in push-pull configuration)
A total of 12 fans. Think this would would for the temps?
the best way to improve temps is get an airflow panel for that case
but i don't think you need to install all the fans
even tho it works well
I went with the glass panel, will see the temps and consider changing to airflow case. Unfortunately Corsair don't sell just the front panel separately.
you can just email them and ask for one
they either give it for free or make you pay a little
Ohhhh. Will do that. Thanks!
they sell the front panel as a replacement, you can buy the airflow front panel
super happy with the eisbaer pro
managed to cool my 12900KF to 302W
I'm sure if I did some more trickery too I'd get the full 312W out of it but I'm happy enough now
congrats
and yeah, I have an eiswolf on my 3090 so I wanted to keep the whole "combine your aio's together thing" cos it worked well for the 3090 (600W benches go brr)
I did consider an LS720 tho lol
I am looking for radiators and water blocks for LGA 1700? Can I have some help.... I'd really appreciate it. Looking for 480mm rads.
Radiators are universally compatible
Get one that looks good to you
Alphacool makes pretty good ones
Got it.
What about corsair?
Currently the waterblock and kit I have saved are for corsair's Hydro X stuff and I found a waterblock from corsair under the same name.
Corsair tends to be mediocre at a premium price
If you want the best go for a heatkiller
managed to find their 240mm version but not a 360 or 480mm.
Aquatuning.us is alphacool's US shop
What are some other options?
Do they have a MX shop?
You were the one in Mexico? Sorry hard to keep track lol
It's fine.
But yea, being in MX definitely limits my options.
Thermaltake vs Alphacool which is betteR?
What about water blocks for LGA 1700?
I noticed there are like 4 different models for each size, any specific model I should choose?
For waterblock I'd just get whichever heatkiller lga1700 block you like
Radiator models are less important, changes will mostly be design or thickness
Just to double check. Is heat killer a brand or a specific waterblock?
I looked up Heatkiller and all I see are Intel backplates and AMD waterblocks?
sorry, its a series, the brand is watercool
Found this though I am not sure if it supports LGA 1700.
Got it. So heatkiller is out of the option works.
What about other water blocks?
Are the Corsair Hydro X XC8 good?
its weird, the same page also say lga 1700 compatible
but way down in the bottom 😛
Socket compatibility INTEL: 1150, 1200 and 1700
Now I am confused.....
falcie already told you that c*rsair products are mediocre at best
with premium prices
Okay, I think my brain is dieing then....
But hmmm.
If not Heatkiller or Corsair what are my other options?
Is this good?
Pacific MX2 Ultra has a 2.1 Inch LCS Display that presents real-time information and even plays JPG and GIF files with 480*480 resolution, bringing great visual aesthetics and highly customizable functions to your water block. The water block incorporates a central inlet design that allows coolan...
hopefully falcie will come to help you 😛 custom loops are not my area of expertise
still if he recommend you heatkiller you should research a lil more to see if they are indeed lga1700 compatible
Ooof.... I feel like building a custom loop is easier then figuring out which parts to use for a custom loop.....
Will do.
as everything in life, you need to do a lot of research
look for forums, videos, images
manuals
the guys can point you in the right direction, everything else must be on your own curiosity to research
Patiently waits for d15 vs 2
Noctua: you want keycaps?
if they arent absurdly over-engineered, ion want em
that looks kinda good
I hope its pbt
if it aint shaped to fit the curvature of my finger
it aint noctua
just brown keycaps
Literally just black lel
Who said I wouldn't like it? 
Would still shill 100%
Daisy chain my keys pls
Arctic keyboard and mouse
Has anyone here used this waterblock before?
Pacific MX2 Ultra has a 2.1 Inch LCS Display that presents real-time information and even plays JPG and GIF files with 480*480 resolution, bringing great visual aesthetics and highly customizable functions to your water block. The water block incorporates a central inlet design that allows coolan...
I need a low profile cooler for my new build or 120/240s, they're good as far as the pump doesn't exceed 47mm height.
I saw a few used coolers. My main choice (for new coolers) is the NH L9i. (Found it for 30€ used black version), but I've also found these ones: enermax liqumax ii 120s (same price); Corsair h60 (120mm); liqumax ii 240mm.
Should I buy any one of the water coolers? (If they're new since the pump is always affected by the use), should I stick to the NH L9i?
- at what price should I be getting the coolers? (Considering they're all used)
I've also always heard I should avoid most cooler master AIOs...
I also have a general question for AIOs: I know it's better for the rad to be over the pump, but can the tubing go over the rad (or same level as is)?
Like this
(Goofy aah drawing) 💀
👀
if you are already struggling with size why do you want to place the tubings above the rad?
thats... weird on so many levels
its possible and strange
K
are you aware why the pump never have to be above the system?
same principle for the tubes
Ah
you want bubbles playing there?
Nah
still, having the tubes above the system is kinda weird
I'll see if I can find a method to run the tubing lower than the rad
Because Im planning on making my own itx case and the space for the tubing is not really good, it's mostly meant to go to watercooled GPUs
evn on an sff case the rad normally is at the highest point fo the loop
What if the tubing is same level as the top part of the tubing?
That should be fine righ?
you end with bubbles at the highest point anyway
unless you are precise to the microscope to have both at the same level
physics
K, I'll either find a way to solve this problem or just go NH L9i
But what if tubing goes lower than the CPU block?
That's fine?
as long as the highest point isnt the pump, then everything is ok
Ok
having the bubbles trapped at an edge of the rad is ideal
if you want to have them on the tubes, thats on you
But if the tubing is lower than the CPU block/pump doesn't the air block on there?
again
are you aware of why the pump shouldnt be in the highest point of the system?
But I guess the air will move to the rad (that is on top)
air will find its way to the highest point, if the pump/tubes/anything is below the highest point, then you will have 0 air bubbles there
Okk
air always find its way to the top
A lot of PC builds online (including manufacturer photos & NR200P builds) incorrectly mount AIO liquid coolers, leading to pump noise/whine and early cooler failure.
Sponsor: Buy Thermal Grizzly Conductonaut on Amazon (https://geni.us/1D8Eeq) or Hydronaut paste (https://geni.us/Fsray)
FOLLOW-UP answering common questions from the comments in th...
here
What I understood: the highest point in the aio has to be the rad
I'll probably watch jayz video, much shorter and with the same info
gamer nexus is way better
way way better
in any case that should give you a basic perspective of "why" on aio placement
jayz is very minimalistic on his explanations
For one of the used aio I'm going to ask how old they are/how much they've been running for, what should be that limit to keep it running for a few years more?
He said he basically took the same info and put it in a shorter video
Idk, I'll watch gn
i shouldnt trust a second hand aio cause you dont know how many abuse the pump had, nor how it was fitted on its old system, and also no warranty if the pump fail
but thats just my opinion
nor the condition of the tubes/fittings
there is a lot of variables that could go wrong on a second hand aio
Mmmmh
I'm starting to think I should go NH L9i... Maybe it's a better option, the pc is going to travel a lot (that's the purpose for this 2nd build) and moving it around may cause problems with aio pumps/air inside...?
not really if they are well packed with things like air cushions or foam inside the case before travel
Old tubes may start to crack because of thermals... Mmmh
I'm undecided
maybe someone else will give you his/her opinion on that
me, nah, aio should eb the only part to buy new for me, to ensure a fresh not abused pump
and warranty
No, I mean I'll travel with this pc basically 30km by car every week and I won't put any packaging inside
if yo are travelling a lot like that you should think on a lpatop... way more reliable
and dont waste money on that sff build
I'll start asking for how old the AIOs are so I can exclude older ones and maybe then buy one or go air cooler
desktops are meant to be on one place, they are not fit for travelling that much without portection
Nah, I already had some good components I can use for the build and laptops are much more expensive, no need for a laptop, I'll just move the pc between my mom's and dad's house
laptops are more sturdy for travel\
or, you can leave one pc on one house and one in another
I have designed the internals so everything is really stable and doesn't move in any way
moving your pc that much will damage it eventually
more so if you are thinking on an aio without protection for travelling
I'll also be really careful
someday you will have leaks all over the pc
Air cooler then
air coolers also need protecvtion for travelling
NH L9i. It may be louder and hotter but I guess it'll be the best option
they are heavier and can put a lot of stress on the mobo while travelling
under high vibrations
I'll 3d print a support to keep it still
NH L9i is a 92mm fan + 37mm tall cooler
It's low profile
thing is, you are taking extreme risks for no reason, just build the pc on one house and the second pc in the other house
if you are moving the pc a lot, a laptop will be a better investment, cause, as far as i am aware, you are spending a lot in an sff build anyway
a used laptop shouldnt be that expensive
but you are right, you do you
It's going to be a 9400f + 1080 build for a total of 600/650€ that's really cheap, to get a laptop that matches it's performance it'd cost probably about 1000 or more euros, and i don't have and don't want to spend that much
used? i dont think so
i still dont get why you bought a 1080 while having a 1070... to me that was a waste of good hard earned money, but its your money anyway
Because I got the 1080 for 200, the 1070 I'll sell it for the same price
Free upgrade
if its a "backup" build the 1070 should do just fine
+as i always said my 1070 is pretty loud and hot
I want to be able to game many games, including wz
With no stutter/problems/overheating
- a laptop that should match a 1080 desktop must have a 2070 (mobile), 2070/2080 laptops cost well over 1000
maybe i have a different perspective about a "portable pc" like i need my home desktop system to be a beast, but my laptop just enough to handle office work and light gaming while im away... because... that not my main system anyway.. More so if i am on a budget like you are, trying to get cheap used parts.
no need to have max setting on wz on my laptop anyway. thats why i spent a lot on my desktop
and even if you have a lot of money a high end laptop will be better than that mobile sff pc that you will abuse with a lot of travelling every week . just my opinion 😛
Add to that the hassle to transport the peripherals and the monitor as well, unless you have a monitor and peripherals on both houses for both of your pcs... but if you have those things on each house then... why not having both pcs installed on every house as well? no need to carry your sff (and peripherals/monitor) every week on a trip. Again a laptop will be easier to carry around in the long run even if you end up spending a bit more.
I've searched a bit, not worth getting a 2060 or better laptop (that'd still perform worse) and costs double.
The pc will be useful for vacations or whenever I'm not home for a while. Not a problem for peripherals, I'll use a bag or a backpack to carry everything, I'll just need mouse and keeb. I'll use the monitors I have at my father's, or I could always connect it to a TV somewhere else.
My hands are so sore :(... The only part I don't like about building a new PC, is threading the fans, especially 12 of them. Everything tested perfectly first boot up, then discover to my horror, the manufacturer reversed the fans. Headers were epoxied, so swapping the pins, easiest to do couldn't be done, so had to take out the screws, turn the fans around, then rethread the other side. I considered at first to just leave it, but realized the airflow would come in the vents that don't have filters, and dust, a lot of it, would end up scraping off the bottom of the filter, right into the CPU fan and RTX GPU. Not a safe thing when you own 4 cats. It was my cat, that tipped me off that the fans were in wrong direction. Was sleeping in front and could see the breeze. Every fan, marked with an arrow to show direction of air flow, reversed.
Would the Corsair XT Hardline kit work for other tubes?
you just need to remember that aluminum and copper cannot be mixed regardless of the brand, and as long as the tubes match the fittings/gaskets everything should be compatible
Hey I recently just bought a deepcool castle 240ex and realized that I couldn't connec the RGB as I only have two 4 pin RGB headers on my motherboard. I found these two products to resolve my solution and was wondering what would be a better buy.
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0B1MNNDZG/ref=ox_sc_act_image_1?smid=A32B9TAI3MS38X&th=1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B09Y8V5X98/ref=twister_B0B17SH6GJ?_encoding=UTF8&psc=1
Anyone having trouble accessing kritical pads website? Ive been trying for a month and every time =
What are some very good D5 Pump/Res combos?
Currently considering this.
La unidad combinada EK-Quantum Kinetic TBE D5 es la revolución del diseño de ensamblaje de depósito de bomba más popular del mercado. Las nuevas unidades combinadas Kinetic forman parte de la línea EK Quantum de productos y vienen con sofisticada implementación de iluminación D-RGB direccionable ...
@shrewd juniper @strange flume this got to to me much quicker than I thought it would.
They even provided a cute little tube of mx-5 :P
What kind of fittings would I need to run softline tubing to hardline?
Yeah they're sending the EOL MX-5. Basically like Kryo where it separates and dries out really quick
Call it an "issue" but if it's still a paste it's probably gonna work fine
Yeah, I mean, so far I've repasted 4 times in the past 6 months of having my pc, so ill check it out. If my thermals start to go funky, I'll just repaste. Not like it's that hard or even really time consuming.
Ye
Noice
Just whatever size the tubing is
thats really often lol
case swaps/aio swaps/contact frame swap
Looking at upgrading PC when the 13900 comes out. I have a corsair AIO 420 in a push-pull that can transfer to new build and AIO GPU I could get. Would that be roughly as good as doing a custom loop, or would I see a dramatic difference in cooling with a custom loop ?
custom loop is way better
If it's that H170i one it's good enough
Yeah it is
After a certain point you pass diminishing returns on the amount of rads and it matters more by coldplate
well way better, but your setup seems very capable
Also 13900 is easier to cool than 12900
420 is powerful enough imo, not worth the $400+ to loop
Thank you, least that will be one thing I can transfer over lol well that and the case
yeah, your setup is very strong as it is
What you could consider doing
$5 thermalright contact frame
And the TG lapping tool
That'll help as much or more than switching to a loop
Does void warranty tho
Contact fram is gonna help a lot yeah lapping is more of a pain imo
and use 3 of those push-pull fans elsewhere, im pretty sure those 3 can do much better away from that psuh-pull config
Lapping tool makes it easier
to push the screw until you hear the plop!
not for the peace of my mind
contact frame is easier, faster, and more safe 😛
lapping sounds more scary
I have the push pull 420 aio on top, and than 3 140mm fans in front Currently with old GPU aio behind that in a push pull with 1 140mm in rear. Upgrade would put the GPU AIO rad in the rear ( 360) maybe pus pull that as well.
You're shaving the IHS not delidding it
hmmm i swear i saw some lm applications on the contact point with the copper ihs
ohhhhh
now i get it
yeah i was thinking on deliddin
Push pull is another case of diminishing returns
Tho I can't really talk I have a pc full of push pull lol
yeah those 3 fans could be easily being used elsewhereon the case
O11D evo can fit it tho even with the rads
Thank's didn't know that but it's also being used for the looks with the rgb fans
push pull is about 2% improvement at most
Uh push pull for looks?
Wonder if I got the CoolMaster HAF 700EVO and maxed it out on it's fan's if that would give a good amount of cooling. Though I would miss the flexibility to do what I want in my case compared to to my current C700M Cosmos
More fans ≠ more better
Yeah my TT fans are open on the sides so you see the rgb
Better airflow due to design and fan placement = more better
Filling out a case with fans or more fans than needed isn't necessarily better either
It's all about the airflow
I like the looks of that case as well, but being able to move your MB to the right side and turn it 180 is fun when wanting to m ake something different
so just get a car rad and be done with it. that way you get all the rad you need/want PLUS only 1 line in and 1 line out.
Thick rad go brrrr
Push pull is good for either extremely low RPM or high resistance rads (very high FPI+thick rads). It doesn't help with mid to high RPM fans with low to mid resistance rads. So if you're outside of the use case of it then you'll get some pretty diminishing returns as others stated.
Get a 2x180mm monsta and you might just need the push/pull https://www.aquatuning.us/water-cooling/radiators/radiators-active/180200mm/16420/alphacool-nexxxos-monsta-180mm-dual-radiator?c=6566
how much should i spend on a decent rgb cpu cooler
Depends on what cooler... If you want air cooler then I'd say 50$ max, for 120mm just don't, for 240mm 80$ and 360mm not more than 140$
You can however chose to change the fans to a non RGB cooler but make sure to use some adequate ones
se-214xt is a nice rgb air cooler, also cheap, 20 usd
for aios you could get an rgb version of the liquid freezer 2 on b-stock. they are quite cheap these days and top performers
PERFORMANCE KING: With a more efficient cold plate, proprietary pump and fans optimized for static pressure, the Liquid Freezer II series clearly sets itself apart from other AiO water coolers. MAINTENANCE-FREE WATER LOOP: The water circuit is sealed and fitted with fiber-reinforced EPDM tubing, preventing evaporation of the coolant = no refilli...
what cpu cooler would you guys recommend for ryzen 5600?
Something cheap will do like Gammax 400 or SE 224XT, it's not a hot chip
Best for the price - Arctic MX4
Best overall - Noctua NT-H2, closely followed by TG Kryonaut (non-extreme)
Not usually, you can get similar results from just lapping on modern CPUs
You sand down the nickel plating to expose the copper underneath and make the IHS flatter
By the way, I want to say thank you for helping me out so much this past week.
Interesting.
No problem, it's what I enjoy doing
Is lapping more risky then replacing the IHS?
Changing the IHS is far more risky since you have to heat it enough to melt the solder and then try not to cut off SMDs (surface mount devices) like capacitors when you use your razor to take it off
Oh geez....
So lapping is safer and easier then I assume?
Also I gtg, will read and respond later.
Yeah all you need is a couple pieces of sandpaper, no special tools or skills
So this is meant to sand it down to make it more flat?
Yes, and it also exposes the copper so the nickel plating doesn't get in the way
Nickel has a much lower thermal conductivity, but it's much less reactive than copper so it's used to protect copper a lot
Unless you live near a coast and leave your windows open all the time your copper shouldn't corrode though
Wait
I never knew the IHS was actually copper underneath
Well this is news for me
I simply though of it being alu lol
An IHS being aluminium would present the biggest thermal bottleneck of all lol
Is that one yours? How fine a grit did you do on the last go?
I go up to 2k
Hmm, acceptable
🤨
I know some that stop at 600 lol
you forgot about kpx 
who? 💀
non-conductive was a requirement
kpx isnt conductive?
Oh right I was probably thinking conductonaut
yea the LM
The top 2 still stand though, that would be a good third
Oh it's very common & even 3770K had a copper ihs
(also had thermal paste instead of great TIM but w/e) . Even better if cooler base is lapped, or at least is factory "flat". Thermalright for example sometimes has a slightly convex shape to match the bend of what the Intel bracket normally does. Mmmmm*, copper:
i need a 3770k 🗿
me too. Slim picks on ebay lately. This is also why I did the non-K xeon brother (price)
Ah, same as I paid. well, only another 100mhz on base/boost at least. I'm definitely pleased w/ the 1240v2, just wish I got one 5+ years ago instead of 2021.
-- Although, $30 to double the threads and helped low/avg fps quite a bit.
I live about 10 meters from the sea. Should I be concerned?
Copper corrodes in salty air, see the statue of liberty for example
My balcony doors (like 15m from the PC in the living room) is open when I go for a swim about 1-2hrs a day.
How long would it take for copper to corrode and when it does will it affect the other parts?
Wondering because I am thinking I may be better off not lapping if it corrodes to quickly.
well it's a much slower process being in the middle of your house VS outside on the beach or a ship. Could also get a cooler with a base that is confirmed slightly convex, or flat if you'll use the anti-bend bracket from Thermalright/Thermal Grizzly. That's what I'm thinking though. Fal?
Yeah it takes a few years for the oxidizing process normally, even in less than ideal conditions. Hopefully you upgrade once 16th gen comes out lol.
It shouldn't corrode quickly at all, you'll have to refill the aio first before you need a new coldplate
I also live some 20m from the water and I've never really had copper corrosion issues
Oh then I am fine.
I'd be upgrading with every gen.
And giving the last gen to my brother.
I will be back in ShangHai in about a year which I will be very far from the Sea by then.
So lapping should be fine if I am understanding correctly?
Also, what grits should I use for lapping?
2,000-8,000?
Start rough and then go fine
start off with something around 200. 120 or 300 or so is fine. then go up to around 1000, then polish with 2000-2500
Got it.
Use a flat surface as well, glass is a good option
Would this be fine then? 300, 1000, 2000, 3000?
yea thats good
Would there be any benefit for going higher then 3,000?
I usually dont care enough to go beyond 2000 or so but yea
Like 8,000?
not that I know of. theoretically yea but i really doubt it makes a practical difference
what chip are you lapping
I used to have some 8K grit sitting around for polishing my gems.
13900K or KS once those come out.
Just holding out right now till they come out and then buy one.
Working on doing my dream spec PC right now. Been saving up a lot.
if you really wanna go over the top, you can saw out the socket and ILM on the PCB and lap your chip with it in the socket/ILM lol
What does ILM stand for?
No thank you on the sawing.
integrated loading mechanism
lol understandable
I do that with my lga2011 chips
flatter finish
.................
The IHS bends ever so slightly when under the ILM, so when you lap it inside it, it's more accurate to how it'd be real-world
.............
No thank you.
I am wasting a $400 board to lap my CPU flatter by 0.0001 degree of an angle.
:)
I didnt buy a full price board just to saw the sockets out lol
I got a dual socket, dead server board for about 20 bucks
then sawed out the socket lol
Okay at $20 that's understandable.
But to buy a functional board to do that with is just insane.
yes lol
The scary part is I bet someone did that already.
probably
Brb.
That's some hardware gore right there
I do suggest getting the Thermalright anti-bend bracket as well. Takes off 5-8C on a 12900K at load, from what I've seen. (not factoring in lapping)
ABB?
How is that used and does it apply to all LGA 1700 boards?
Why does that look cursed....
I had no flux lol
By the way, has anyone attempted Exotic Cooling Methods (ECM) like using Freon to cool a chip to temps just slightly or like 5c above ambient to ensure optimal cooling without condensation?
People dont bottleneck themselves by just trying to stay above the dew point. They'd rather get the lowest temperatures and compensate for condensation by insulating their hardware
They call it BCF, bend correct frame. Here's 1 on amazon w/ the seller being Thermalright themselves: https://www.amazon.com/Thermalright-Generation-Anti-Bending-Correction-Installation/dp/B0B5Q34SZ1
edit: The TR page itself - http://www.thermalright.com/product/lga1700-bcf-black/
here's an example of that insulating i mentioned
people also use backplates that double as heaters, and use liquid electrical tape
Yeah, I am the kind of mentality where I'd like to stay reasonable on cooling costs while also making sure I don't have a pc that will freeze my finger tips into cracked icicles.
Hence Freon (like a ac).
Oh yea, it's not really practical for dailying
I was talking about daily cooling.
That's why I was wondering if anyone has made a exotic cooling that acts like an AC.
I dont know too much technical stuff about phase change cooling but yea
for sure
linus has a video where he shows his old chiller lol
One that avoids condensation of course.
Wasn't that one a complete failure?
Or am I thinking of a different LTT experiment.
I dont think so? maybe im remembering it wrong
Will this work for 13th gen?
Will watch the video in a bit to confirm.
Will be sure to use it if it works for 13th gen. Just saw how easy it was to install and doesn't cost to much either.
Actually I take back that emoji. 13th gen is the same socket, but there might be improvements to cpus and/or the 700 series mobos. As in, they might not need this BCF. At least it's only $15-20 though. I partly like how it holds a cpu (and better/flatter also of course). Clean!
I mean if it will work for 13th gen I will definitely get it, slightly better performance and looks a hell of a lot better then default mobo ILM.
So let's see here.
When I get my new CPU I should. (1) lap it, (2) change the ILM.
roboclocker technically can be daily'd
Are the RGB fans that come with the Fractal Torrent good?
Or should I replace them with arctic P14s/12s?
Perhaps both. tbh if I did the hassle of lapping cpu, I'd lap cooler base as well (depending on how un-flat it is). idk about most aios but remember how I mentioned some heatsinks specifically being convex on purpose. Also for "cooler" practice could get some super cheap single tower of some sort. btw I wouldnt start with too low of a grit, takes longer to remove those deep scratches. perhaps 400 min, although here's a decent read: https://archive.techarp.com/showarticleb086.html?artno=433&pgno=0
Also some Thermalright "TRUE" base goodness:
Do Arctic AIOs have a copper base I can lap without damaging the pump case?
Because I am buying the 420mm Arctic Freezer II.
Asking because their pumps have a odd shape.
From anandtech in 2021: (yea, not sure I'd bother to lap this, but you can easily check flatness in various ways)
So I should lap that as well?
Also fkin hell. To buy 4 P14 fans in MX is going to cost me about $200.
Versus $100 for 6 P12s.
Flatness is # 1. yea if that surface* is already quite smooth (and flat) then probably leave it alone*. wow, P14 spendy there.
So don't sand the cooler base? And yeah it's rediculously expensive.
GN tests coldplate flatness for fun btw
Nice. want to see how anandtech tested the LF2:
(and most coolers)
My current combo for my major upgrade come the next 2-3 months including shipping.
Case: Fractal Torrent
Fans: Arctic P14 PST ARGB
Mobo: (Some sort of Z790 mobo)
ILM: Thermalright Anti-bending Buckle
CPU: I9-13900K
Paste: Noctua NT-H2
Cooler: Arctic Freezer II 420mm
GPU: RTX 4090
RAM: 2x16gb Trident Z Neo G5 6400mhz CL32
PSU: (To be decided based on which ATX 3.0 1,500 watt PSUs come out)
Prob want to wait on if 13900k&z790 suffers from the same bending issues or if they've somehow rectified it
What do you mean by bending?
the thermalright frame exists because of the warping from the stock ILM
Currently the ihs bending is due to weird stuff concerning how the CPU is secured in the socket on lga1700, but they might change aspects of that and make brackets unnecessary
if they fixed the ILM on 700 series boards you shouldn't need to be as worried
So I should be fine so long as I use the thermalright frame right?
Wait and see if it's necessary
Is it bad if my cpus only at 37c?
i mean ideally the thermalright frame you shouldn't go wrong mechanically but yeah, you could save a few if you don't need it
When I play rust my cpus only 37 max
While doing what and cooled by what and with boosting or not
What CPU
Tha
Will keep my eye out then, though at $16 it wouldn't really hurt my wallet to get it just incase if it saves me a couple weeks of waiting to get news on if the ILM has issues.
And if fps is fine then it's fine either way
meh, any saved money is worth it
How does this combo look?
I'd wait for more info for everything
new ram, new psu's, new boards and cpu's
Like maybe ls720 is actually the best aio on the market
LS720 
?
We don't have enough testing to know for sure if it beats freezer ii
a 720mm aio?
nah, 360mm
360mm
but it's shown potential to keep with the best cos good pump and coldplate
Also I'd wait before deciding on ram too
And well, everything else
Prices change, products come and go
new ram, hynix agbd, much faster than current sticks
as far as the extra perf gained? not much tho
Maybe micron will make a comeback with the new equivalent of rev e, who knows
ddr4 tuned is still OP in games
True
Aren't Trident Sticks usually trust worthy as far as good rams sticks come? Even if it charges a bit more like (a hem, Apple).
trident is good for guaranteed bins
The brand doesn't matter
I got cjr
but for heatsink design, not great
ofc, I don't mean every sku
he starts with 6400, there's like, two kits of those lol
There are some trident stuff that's basically ripjaws + lipstick
I know.
But 6400c32 of any brand should be Hynix
imo Teamgroup 6400 is cheaper btw with a better heatsink afaik
Well in my case, thee only cit that ships to MX.
Mhmmmm, even so ngl I really dislike the wing design of Teamgroup sticks.....
functionally they should be better while keeping rgb
or you can get kingston kits for no frills and still be board/cpu limited anyway
kingston fury has a good heatsink too
6000 C40 is hynix guaranteed afaik
hynix?
Manufacturer of the die
Looked at Kingston's RGB line with the same specs as the Trident Z and they want $90 more for the same stuff.
I bloody hate shipping costs....
Those don't show up on the list of ones that can be delivered.
ehhh, they're also g.skill
My options are like Trident Neo G5, RGB Kingston & Teamgroups, plus a couple other ones that to my knowledge have a bad reputation.
sadge
Theres prob drop shipping services that ships to mx
I'd pick teamgroup then if it's cheaper
but also wait until it's actually happening
Will cost me around $20 more for C40 vs C32.
that's so weird lol
I like all these plain black LoPro dimms
pricing order is reversed here
Yeah MX is weird.
Whatever is cheaper
In that case, the Neo G5s are actually the cheapest for me at the 6400mhz cl32 and above specs.
Then for now they're your best option
Lower tcl better performance btw
It's same thing
Like timing cl
Also does this formula still work for DDR5? I think it was mhz * 2,000 / cl
For first word read it's a dif formula, for cl latency it can
tCL isn't the timing that truly matters, it's the resultant timings that run using it that make a difference
Subtimings matter more, tCl only gives you an idea of approx perf
Wacky
That doesn't sound right
maybe on the redline
"G.Skill Trident Z5 RGB Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) 288-Pin SDRAM DDR5 6400 (PC5-51200) CL32-39-39-102 1.40V Dual Channel Desktop Memory F5-6400J3239G16GA2-TZ5RK (Matte Black)"
nah I think I've seen that before
39 39 102 is def hynix
So it's good then?
it's good but also better ram may land before next-gen
(technically already landed but not truly)
i'm not familiar with anything other than the stock numbers of the test kits
will have to wait and see
Found out why the Neo G5s are cheaper then the rest. There is a 20% discount on them.
chances are though you'll see like, xmp's in the high 6000's
Oh nice.
g skill will have a trident z5 kit for it too I'm sure
I am still deciding between 32gb or 64gb for my system.
64gb would be definitely more then I need but would flush my system out as far as looks goes..... (I realize how rediculous this sound to spend a extra $300 mostly for looks)
Really?
it's not like ddr4 where you can just throw 2 more in like it's fine
yeah
If you want 64gb, there are 2x32gb sticks, but I doubt you'll need that much
Do you think the Z790 boards will be able to handle it?
For me, 32gb is about the sweet spot as I can easily use up 16-20.
2 sticks will be a lot faster than 4 sticks
running btw, 4 sticks at a really high xmp just doesn't work
Interesting. I knew that dual channel helped but I didn't realize having 2 sticks per channel would slow it down if I am understanding you right.
Got it.
Are fake sticks a thing?
xD.
Like can I just buy the RGB shell of the ram stick and plop it in to mimic 4 sticks.
fyi, I am joking but also curious.
corsair made those for ddr4, maybe you'll see it for ddr5 lol
Wait, SERIOUSLY?!
Gonna stick with DDR5 for future proofing and etc.
future proofing is never a thing
Plus if I am gonna get a 13900K and RTX 4090 why skimp out on the ram.
Depends. I plan to reuse these for 2 maybe 3 years.
Assuming they don't die on me before then.
CPU, and etc I'd replace like with every generation but ram can be reused.
That's how I see it at least.
Hmmmm, How badly would it affect performance if I removed one of the 3 bottom fans from the Fractal Torrent case to put a plastic beach/sea and put some figureines on top?
lol, probably not much
Oh on that subject.
I checked out a local tech market in MX today and at the 3rd floor where all the techies and gamers hanged out.
The entire place was covered with anime characters (turned pretty close to explicit) all over the place including figurines that came close as well.
- a full on anime cosplay shop.....
DDR5 faster, but only if ya got 9.5 septillion dollars and do lots of manual tuning (tho, not like DDR4 is that amazing without manual tuning either).
If you tune both and have a nice bin, DDR4 can be faster
It will depend on the games tho
Eh, DDR4 is rarely faster from what I could tell assuming one has a nice mobo, IMC (i9), DDR5 IC/PCB, and lot of tuning for both sides. Just costs a fortune tho.
DDR5 does require more tuning tho
New gen IC's should change this
But it's still hella close
And ye it's a small fortune either way lol
Think current mobos are pretty limiting too. Seems like only a few expensive mobos can do good DDR5 tunes.
2 dimmers and ttop 4 dimmers are the ones that run away with it ye
You got kp, apex, ux and ux itx, formula, tachyon (most of the time)
Uhhh
It's 3am, brain.exe has stopped responding

Can't remember others
Assrock aqua
Unify x i assume was ux?
Ye
I can't remember any others, the 1dpc's are easy to remember lol
On the DDR4 side you have msi a-pro, strix d4
I think the maximus hero comes up a few times for D5 but it's still 2dpc?
The best ddr5 frequency runners
1dpc is a given but I can't remember any 2dpc besides like formula
it does 1T command rate at 7000c30
I don't think any other boards do 1T that high
tbh I haven't used any other DDR5 boards
I think you covered most of them
my Z590 Unify-X is pretty good
I think tachyon is a 4 DIMM usually
It's a 1dpc on z690
any ITX is gonna be 2 DIMM
I thought
oh is it? nice
Ye I think so, I'll double check
Do they make a Taichi for Z690?
They do
Ah yeah taichi not too bad
Not in terms of d5 oc tho I would think
Ye tachyon 1dpc
I guess there are a lot of 1dpc boards now
I think I remember hearing Aqua wasn't that good but not sure on that one
why that B550M thing exists I dunno lol
damn I guess the Z690 Dark Classified isn't 1 dpc?
I Like how they have the tachyon at $400 "lowest price in 30 days" then it's $340 the next line down
Lol
the thing with the Dark is it's MASSIVE
It's eatx isn't it?
Ye eatx
It's nice tbh. If it fit in my case and was out earlier I'd probably have one
mine barely fit
Can't fit it without yeeting a rad in my rig tho
I had to do that wacky thing with the 24-pin
I see that
but the rad is also insanely large
the Apexes can have lots of issues
Oh yeah with retraining
I think Forks's got borked recently
he already RMAed it before too I'm pretty sure
I think so
Oof
I dunno if Aorus Xtreme is 2 dimm
It's not
It's the biggest waste of money on a 4 dimmer ever
Godlike joins it but with a better bios lol
Comes with a ram cover tho which is neat
So you could stick green sticks in there and still look good
You get other things on an xtreme tho
Like 10gbit ethernet iirc built in
haha I was about to say
godlike seems like a total waste of money to me
I dunno what its redeeming quality is supposed to be
the Z690 even looks strange imo
is that the flagship for MSI or is it the Gaming Ace? I forget
Godlike is
lol the taishi Razer B550 is actually kinda nice looking
Ye the b550 is not terribly overpriced either
Taichi razer z690 is like, twice the price of a regular or something stupid
wow the Maximus Extreme Glacial is $2k? That's so stupid
Yup, another oof board
Lol
It's a nice looking monoblock tho
Would rather that msi one that BZ got
Is it the force variant?
Ye the carbon
I thought he was using Unify-X
I'm looking at the prices on these boards
Lol
& I would go with the Dark Kingpin for sure
Ofc
like maybe I'd consider the Tachyon but there are so many overpriced mediocre boards wth
Or ux/uitx
I don't know how good Unify-X is on Z690
6866* 2T on a good one
maybe Tachyon over U-X but I'm really sick of Gigabyte personally
Tachyon struggled in early days
Gigglebit bios not too great
Getting better tho
UX ITX does better than UX iirc
It's also cheaper
ya gigabyte BIOS are kinda oversimplified I feel like
You know you might be right about the aqua tbh
MSI are also kinda overcomplicated lol
I can't remember any sightings of one in recent memory
I dunno much about Asrock in general
I almost got a Taichi once but that was as close as I got to paying attention to it
maybe it's a sleeper? I kinda doubt it tho lol
Gigabyte Xtreme Waterforce $1800
Kekw
I truly hope that whoever made that decision is able to get help for their severe crack addiction
I mean rgb fusion is terrible
All that for a flashy rgb board that'll run the most cope rgb
but Amourycrate is worse
And you know what I agree
& MSI center is... kinda tolerable-ish lately
Armoury crate is horrible
I've cut out msi center on my system
I only use 1 bloat software now
Admittedly it's a bad one but I like my mouse profiles so
||synapse 💀 ||
Icue, mystic, L connect, all gone
I have a razer rgb box thing
I don't even install the software
OpenRGB controls it fine so good enough for me
but ya no mouse profiles
Ye I'd use openrgb but I like the shortcuts
So I use razer instead cos I'd lose those
Razer wouldn't bother me so much but when you go to Task Manager there's like 7-8 things running cuz of it
ya that's a lot of stuff going on
I think you might be able to run it all on OpenRGB tho
I would be able to
G.Skill is better than TeamGroup
there's an OpenRazer plugin
I think it comes with it tho I'm not sure
I use the pipeline version cuz it tends to support more things
Will have a look later
I honestly just have my mice and the razer rgb box
I've stripped a lot out
Prefer a blackout look now
like this version
I mean if I can get it to handle the static white and it runs then I might be able to get away with it
I lose hypershift tho which is a good like 4 or 5 mouse buttons
More if I'm on CAD with the naga pro
To be fair I've never seen if there's a software to replace the mouse programming tho 
I'll have to have a look on tuesday
oh ya I think this is like entirely for lighting
I think you're stuck with razer
Lol
What's poppin everyone?
would a Deepcool ak400 be enough for a 12600kf
No you'd want an ak620 or an aio
Does the vertical gpu mount actually have any substantial difference in thermals?
Depends on case. Lots of cases dont allow enough space between sidepanel and GPU for good airflow and cause bad temps
Alright, thank you
Does this help my pc overheating?
this being that deepcool cooler?
nah
case is also prolly not that great for airflow
Why are you taking it seriously





