#cases-psu-and-cooling
1 messages · Page 13 of 1
@blissful thistle, sorry for the ping but do you know if the NX200M can support a 280mm AIO? Cause I noticed it lists support for 2x140mm fans up front but doesn't say it supports 280mm aio just wanted to confirm.
I'm not sure, but I'll find out
It doesnt
Ap201 does
Could you find the nx500m in Mexico around the same price as 200m?
It fits 280s
Lemme see
And normally costs about the same, atleast in us and Canada
2x the price.
Ah that's annoying
Pardon my language but man mexico has some
They charge all sorts of taxes on tech. 16% on the product and shipment of the product + border tax + other stuff.
Though I am gonna be here for a full year soo yeah...
Import tariffs are huge in mexico still
Especificación: Tipo de artículo: RAM DDR4 Material: PCB, Metal Tipo de memoria: DDR4 Frecuencia: 3600MHz Ancho de banda: 28800 CL : 16 20 20 38 Voltaje de funcionamiento: 1,4 V Aplicable: computadora de escritorio Lista de Empaque: 2 x DDR4 RAM > Cómo utilizar: plug and play Nota: Recuerde activ...
lmao
Honestly decent specs though and cheaper then all competitors
Any sleeper pc tips? Probably dumbest question I’ve asked lol.
Also any good ways to make a motherboard elevated off the base of a case?
Like a old style case where the motherboard needs to be elevated but is flat
Lemme rephrase that
Rather than the motherboard being normal like a building or tower, the motherboard is positioned like a plate
Sorry if I’m bad at describing, do t have picture perms yet
Wdym by tips?
Like suggestions for a build list? Or what to look for?
And you can dm me a picture of what you mean, bc I've no idea what you mean lol
Sounds to me like he needs a standoff or washer
Sleeping on it is way more comfortable if you add a few pillows and blankets

Nooooooooooo pato the dust.... 😭
Time to detechie you
Looking good so far, the finished piece will be great at this rate
Thx, gotta put the GPU in it and I should be done
are segotep halo 6 case good?
Glass front with near no space for air so that's a no
I think that case has less vent space than the H510 elite

look for anything that has a mesh front
for that price you probably wont get anything amazing, but at least look for that
ok
didnt know there was a romanian pcpartpicker, nice find
ty so much man
lol a life saver
what do you think about this psu? https://www.pcgarage.ro/surse/seasonic/g12-gm-750-80-plus-gold-750w/
Focus GM is A tier
what gpu and cpu?
rx 6700xt r5 7600x
this would be fine https://ro.pcpartpicker.com/product/GBjRsY/deepcool-pk650d-650-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-r-pk650d-fa0b-us
wait let me double check that that might be the wrong model
ah thought it was B, but yeah
this should also be fine https://ro.pcpartpicker.com/product/mnVmP6/msi-mag-a550bn-550-w-80-bronze-certified-atx-power-supply-mag-a550bn
C tier too
how good a psu is, A tier is high end
The tiers and the criteria are all here https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
C tier is perfectly fine with a 6700xt
The tiers are about the actual quality of the units and the protections they have (or don't have)
Efficiency is not a factor at all except for untiered units being an automatic "avoid"
Wow that is very interesting learning something new everyday ty
Hello, I want to upgrade my current PSU which is a Corsair RM750x CP-9020179-NA. But I don't wanna replace all the cables. I'll probably get one of these PSUs can I reuse the cables from my current one?
https://www.newegg.com/corsair-rmx-series-rm1000x-cp-9020201-na-1000w/p/N82E16817139273?Item=N82E16817139273&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-17-139-273-_-11022023
I'm going at least 1000w bc I'll probably upgrade from a 3070 to a 4080ti (if it comes out) or a 4090 early next year. And getting a 5800x3D to upgrade my 5600x.
Thr rmx 750 can run a 4090 with a 5800x3d without issue
Very easily too
850W if you're a psycho using a 14900k
Something must be wrong with me.
For the first time I actually think a pc case with a box for a shape is kinda nice looking. Looking at the O11D Evo XL.
I think I am in love. The v3000 Plus is gorgeous.
Oh really? I thought I needed to upgrade my PSU. That's great to know then. One less thing to change lol
I won't OC either
Only thing is, 4090s use 4 GPU connectors, my PSU only has support for 2 though.
Use the pigtail connectors, they can handle it on corsair units, or get the official adapter cable https://www.corsair.com/us/en/p/pc-components-accessories/cp-8920284/600w-pcie-5-0-12vhpwr-type-4-psu-power-cable-cp-8920284
Just to explain further off what fal said, corsair psu cables are rated for a lot more than the standard 150w, meaning it'd be fine to use the pigtails
Psus are one of two things corsair does right
Thank you both for the explanation. I think I'll get the official cable so its a bit cleaner than the 4 pigtails. That type 4 cable works on my rmx750 right?
Thanks!
88.50 euros opinion on psu?
It's OK, what gpu are you running?
That should handle a 4090, but possibly not a 3080/3090 since it doesn't handle transient spikes very well (high end 30 series had high power spikes, where it'd shoot from like 200w to twice that for a second and then back down)
An undervolt helps that though
rx 6700 xt
That's plenty of psu.
It's more than fine, if there aren't noticeably cheaper options go for it
If there are it might be worth considering some of them, depending on the price diff and what models they are
thoughts on this case?
North reimagines the gaming PC, introducing natural materials and bespoke details to make gaming a stylish addition to the living space. Fusing design and airflow engineering, the case features fine-patterned mesh ventilation and an open front with real walnut or oak panels. The design is complem...
north is good
If you'll have a large GPU in then I'd go glass, but if the GPU is short enough I'd go mesh and put fans on the mesh side
Just my personal thoughts on it
why is that
Taller GPU would block the fan slots on the mesh so might as well go glass
The mesh would still help if it fits but the glass allows slightly taller GPUs
Hey, i dont know if im at the right place for this but i called a case and i realised 3 months later (when i started building the PC) that a piece was broken . ( the glass hinge, see pic)
does anywone knows if there are spare ones u can buy on newegg or anywhere else for the Thermaltake View 71 Tempered Glass Snow Edition 4-Sided Tempered Glass E-ATX Vertical GPU Modular Gaming Full Tower Computer Case CA-1I7-00F6WN-00 https://www.newegg.ca/white-thermaltake-view-71-tempered-glass-snow-edition-atx-full-tower/p/N82E16811133377?Item=N82E16811133377&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-11-133-377-_-11132023
okay thank you very much 😄
for my next case i want to do either the nzxt h6, or the montech king 95, just wanted thoughts, h6 has really promising airflow/temps, and also looks really nice to me. same with king95 which comes out start of december, but no temps/reviews for that yet. (nzxt case is the full purple)
Yeah but how many fans in the h6
3 I believe
maybe 4
Ehh not full?
i remember reading up on it a few weeks ago
i believe theres a version w/ fans for
more
without is around 110
i think
im also gonna get a nicer and bigger desk for my setup too
think im gonna use christmas and that money i was gonna use for a 6950xt and make my setup actually look appealing to me lol
also a proper monitor lol
h6 isnt curved
the curved on the montech one got me excited
but that rgb bar on the side
is kinda tacky imo
i hope they have an option without it
i think this is the look I want to go for
or something similar
Could just turn off the rgb strip or not connect it
Can't work if it don't have power
mhm, i'll wait until december to see the king95 reviews and make my final decision then
Personally that curve gives me like, hyte vibes lol
mhm lol
60 inch is small, xD.
I got used to having 120in L-Shaped desk and a while and man was that nice to have so much more space to work with.
The left hinge on my father's MSI Sword laptop popped open, can I reseal it with glue?
You'll need some pretty strong glue or it'll pop off again
And it's very likely that a bad hinge will damage the display cable
Hello, I’m a noob and I’m building my first pc. I bought this case from new egg and the fans that came installed don’t look like regular fans that will hook up to the normal fan headers on the MB. The connections are bigger and they are piggy backed to each other. So do these hook up to the psu directly or do I need additional hardware?
Would be easier if i could send pics to show what they looked like.
i ordered a wrong Wattage PSU, if i order another one, should i keep the PSU i ordered wrong for future pc builds or is that not a good idea
i think i’ll just return it but wanted opinions
Amp v2?
for like $130
Why's it the wrong wattage? Is it overkill?
yea
Ah alr
I mean it's not bad to use an overkill psu, but if you're looking to spend less to have something more fitting the rest of the build that makes sense
Itd be fine to hold onto, and it'd be fine to return
i see, thx
What's the build?
i’ll keep it before return period just in case PSU gets faulty and i’ll have a spare
Rm750e can be had for $60-65 or so on tiktok shop
Or gx pro 750 should be $75 not on tt shop
rtx 4080 ryzen 7 7800x3d
Either of those would be a good choice then
Or xpg core reactor 850/seasonic gold 850 at $105 or $110
that’s wattage like 600 i don’t think 1000 W is necessary
Yeah its overkill for sure
Rm750e could handle a 4090 and 7800x3d fairly easily
how accurate is pcpartpicker’s wattage number estimate anyways
Neither, one sec
7800x3d shouldn't pull more than 100w, as a high estimate. 4080 at most 350, which is again a high estimate
Rest of the system won't use more than 50w
yes i set a rough example
It’s got two prongs on one side and two open holes on the opposite.
Rm750e would be a very sage option
also what’s different between Gold and Platinum
Dm me a pic?
Okay
Efficiency, unless you have very badly priced electricity it's nothing to focus on
wdym by badly priced electricity
house electricity?
my house’s electricity is stable
rarely any shut downs
Slightly yes. But the difference between gold and platinum is very small
how much wattages do each fans take? i’m gonna install 9 fans in my phanteks nv7 case
Rm750e would be a great choice for you, unless you need it to be white
Np
If you do need white the pretty much only option is gf1 snow
Also ye just checked, with a 20% off coupon the rm750e should be $61 after coupon

as a 4080 owner i can say that even on cyberpunk everything on psycho and rt on 1440p the card tops at 300W
i have a dilemma
if king95 didnt have that stupid rgb strip on the front
itd prob win me over
You checked out nv5?
There's also a new o11 variant that has a glass top as well as front, $150
i saw it but thats not smth that intrests me
those two really appeal to me cause of the side intake on the h6, and the curved glass for the 95
What's the consensus on 12VHPWR cables? Safer to split it to 3-4 8pins or direct connection? I forgot.
Make sure it's plugged all the way in, and check it periodically to make sure it doesn't wiggle itself out.
Besides that, it depends on the GPU and PSU for what power cable config would be acceptable.
I need help cross referencing a computer power supply. Antec BP430 it's obsolete. I need a power supply that will replace BP430
Is this a pre built or your own build
And what gpu/cpu
Also case
This is an Antec model. It comes out of a Tricaster tcxd-460
?
I dont know if anyone here will know about that
Here's a link to the psu that's inside the unit. It's an ANTEC BP430. It just looks like a fairly standard CPU PSU. https://www.neweggbusiness.com/product/product.aspx?item=9b-17-371-023
First of all, I'm not surprised a group regulated 80+ white unit died on you
Second, yeah that does appear to be a bog standard ATX power supply
This one's the same physical size as the one you linked
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/x96p99/corsair-cx650m-2021-650-w-80-bronze-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020221-na
But the problem is whether there's a way to not have the vent blocked
Thanks yall
Before you buy that make sure there's a vent for the intake fan, I don't see any pictures of the bottom of the unit to see for myself
Or at least have enough gap between the fan and lid
The hp office pc needed some airflow smh
That's obviously not a gpu
Just a regular sound card
A bit of help is needed to see if Thermaltake G3 toughpower is good for my friend pc partpick list
Part List - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, GeForce RTX 4090, Corsair 5000D AIRFLOW ATX Mid Tower
I'm not sure if Thermaltake Toughpower GF3 TT Premium 1000 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular ATX Power Supply belongs to PSU Tier A or a different variant
GF3 is B tier because of some minor issues but it's still a great unit
Load regulation is a little worse than the requirement for A tier
It drooped from 12.1V to 11.95V during the load test
That's not dangerous in any way, it's well within spec. It's just the standard for A tier is very strict.
I guess its the weekend, worth an ask. Anyone got any good leads for a good sub $100 gold rated PSU?
The 750W is $85 too
But the 850W for $90 after the $10 gift card is nice
My current pc can run on a 500, so...
though the be quiet PSUs look rather decent :D
Well if you're asking about gold rated I assume you mean you want A tier units. The efficiency rating has nothing to do with quality.
So the cheapest A tier unit currently is this https://www.newegg.com/thermaltake-ttp-0650ah2flg-650-w/p/N82E16817153453
you would assume correctly
thanks for the help Fal, these be quiet units may be the ebst bang for bucks I can find so far
Yep that's why I suggested them, happy to help
I'll bookmark that be Quiet! 12M 550W power supply, thats a good deal and just what im looking for
oh wait all the be quiet models are out of stock :| heck back to the grind
Lower power units have been sold out for a long time and the higher wattage stuff has come down in price
EVGA SuperNOVA 650 GT
be quiet! Pure Power 12 M 850W
Thermaltake Toughpower GF A3 650W
out of these 3 options, can I go wrong choosing any of the three / opinions on which to (not)?
They're all B tier or better
the cheapest
Which for a low power draw system like yours is more than enough
fair enough... that'd be 90, 85, or 85
you could get the 850 if it's slightly more
yeah like 5 or 10 more I'd do 850
just so later, you can use 850
the 850 is 100 with a 10 giftcard, so effectively 90
But then for that same $85 you can get the 750W of this
...so its 85 all 3 ways would you look at that ._.
Fal thank you for all the help. I watch the be quiet 550 and 750s get snatched up in real time
I didnt let the same thing happen to the 850
I'm confused
I'm really confused
By molex connectors...
I recently saw at a local sale some molex adapters that had this pinout (from left to right) 5v, gnd, 12v, gnd. And I felt something wasn't quite right, I then found some more adapters that actually had a different pinout, being 5v, gnd, gnd and 12v.
What's going on lol
molex experience
Guess you also need a certificate in order to be able to plug in molex connectors, they're super annoying when the pins don't align
all part of a cable that has no one standard
Molex was a big "company", & many computer users don't realise what we often refer to isn't actually molex. 
https://en.m.wikipedia.org/wiki/Molex_connector (I forget how many psus use 1 or the other since I haven't touched either connector in years. Even my hdds were sata power since 10+ years ago of course.)
whats a really solid 850w psu that will actually be quiet under load
I want to try and return my current noisy 750rme and maybe get a new one for christmas
What noise is it making?
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/jWFXsY/seasonic-focus-plus-gold-850w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ssr-850fx
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/WjcgXL/enermax-revolution-df-2-1050-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ers1050ewt
pretty sure its just coil whine
but its like super noticeable under load
under load as in legit just playing a game
you can rma coil whine
Yep, and Corsair is really good about their warranty too
This
that's one loud coil whine
yeah no kidding
i can hear it through my headphones sometimes which are noise canceling lol
i bought it from best buy, would it be best to try and go there to return it
or just rma it
cause ideally id like a good 850w for future upgrades
idk why i didnt go with that initially
Yes, but do you own either of them yet?
Or do you already own a cpu?
I have the case not the motherboard
Do you already own a cpu?
Amd ryzen 5 5600g don't know to get ryzen 7 5800x3d or r9
Nah
If yes, am5 is the way to go
Ok
Then yeah that mobo is fine and will fit the case
If you need wifi you can get a mobo that comes with wifi for the same price
Alright
Actually there's one for $85, if you'd like
Even better
This is also fine https://pcpartpicker.com/product/T6YmP6/asus-tuf-gaming-a520m-plus-wifi-micro-atx-am4-motherboard-tuf-gaming-a520m-plus-wifi
It has better cpu power delivery, or VRMs
But either one is fine for a 5800x3d
That A520 also has flashback which can be a lifesaving feature in case you get an old bios version or it bricks during an update
I didn't know any x20 or x10 mobos has flashback, cool
There's very little reason not to add it onto a board since it only costs them like $5 to do so
The only reason would be they're being cheap
Meanwhile asus has a z690 without it
And I think z790 too
Tuf z690 I know for sure doesn't
And am5 low key
For ryzen 9 5900x should I buy a different cooler
Or I can just stay with the amd cooler
A new cooler would be recommended, the stock cooler can't handle it under heavy load.
I also don't recommend buying a 5900X right now unless you have very specific requirements, like you're doing multi core work (not gaming) and you're upgrading from something older on AM4. If you're gaming, the 5800X3D blows it away.
Damn I'm late lol
https://newegg.io/c40578f
Been seeing this PSU pop up everywhere lately, any good?
Meh
It's A tier, similar psus are around $100 right now
You won't really see the rgb, but if you want it because it has it go for it
If you dont care, don't bother w it
I don’t care much about it, but just saw it on sale for an 850.
Hi all, I was just referred here from NewEgg "Tech support". My PSU, model AL-D500EXP, is fried and I need a replacement. NewEgg lists it as out of stock. I am wondering if anyone would be able to help me to find a suitable replacement of the same rough dimensions to swap into the case. Thank you in advance.
I guess nevermind. Must be the nostalgic Boomer in me but I remember the days where companies you spent money with hired on capable people and provided support within minutes in order to get you what you needed and take their money. The fact that I'm pushed off to a community with barely daily activity is just... gut wrenching. I'll spend my time and money elsewhere.
As long as you don't need you don't need the floppy connector, something simple like this will do
https://www.newegg.com/msi-mag-a550bn-550-w/p/N82E16817701012
Unfortunately, website support gets outsourced, who then they decide to outsource to us, who are unpaid volunteers
honestly a few notable members of this community should be paid for all the tech support they've done free of charge
I'd say this is a better option than an email chain that takes 12-24 hours for each email
I'd say it's a far better option to speak to us as volunteers than a lot of customer service representatives I've spoken to in the past, most of which when it comes to pc issues, refer to documentation and have little knowledge or experience themselves
Vs us with some spare time and no paycheck, but plenty of experience shared
Afternoon one and all. I have a Evga 850 G6 PSU (p/n 220-G6-0850) and the fan is making a bit of noise. I was wondering if it was possible to re-oil the fan itself, or would I be better off replacing/rma-ing it instead?
I can gain access to the fan itself, and notice a small hole, which I presume is where it can re-lubricated. But it appears to be sealed. I know older fans can be re-lubricated with oil ( 3-in-1 or sewing machine oil) but am unsure about the FDB fan that's in it.
Also it was a refurb from Amazon and has been working perfectly well until today. I can stick it on Eco mode for the interim, but ofc the fan will start grumbling eventually. I don't believe I registered it with Evga (my bad on that) so hence asking if I can access it and re-oil it. Thanks in advance.
Never mess with the insides of a psu unless you're very experienced
Even if it's shut off, if you slip you could die if you touched the wrong thing
I understand that totally. The fan cover was the only part I removed to see if there was an access hole to insert more lubrication.
I believe fdb fans should have the lubricant completely sealed off, there shouldn't be a hole where you have access to the lubricant
Ok, if that's the case then looks like I would have to stump up for another PSU... wrong time for the fan to start playing up...#
You should still try to see if you can register it with EVGA and get a replacement under warranty
EVGA refurbished units should still have 1 year warranty without registering it
Good to know, but I think its over 1 year since I purchased it, but will at least give it a go, no harm in trying.
Evga is normally excellent with warranties @fringe pulsar
I think you'd have very good chances with them
Ok, just went and registered and I have 3000+ days of warranty to go so lol. Surprised that it would be covered as it was a renewed unit bought over 18 months ago and that it wasn't registered after I received it. So kudos to EVGA for being very consumer friendly.
So sent in a ticket and will see what happens then. Thanks all for your help.
Nice, it still has its full warranty
Yeah its D tier
Wattage is not the only thing that's important
There's ratings for psus based on how good or bad they are, done by and measured by people a lot smarter than me
There's a tier list pinned in this channel, but what country are you in?
The US
A 350w psu would be fine, but it just depends on how good ot bad it is.
For the US, apevia Prestige 600w or msi ABN 650
Or for a nicer option, Thermaltake grand rgb 650
$80, but I'd trust it with a 4080. You spend more now, but have a bit more room for upgrading
The power supply is the one thing in the PC that you should never cheap out on. D tier units like that P450B would only be acceptable for systems that don't have dedicated graphics because if you apply to much load to the 12V rail too quickly, it shuts down. (and occasionally doesn't turn on again)
C tier is the minimum for systems with a GPU since they have better protections and overall quality
This is whhat I have rn
I just wanna make sure everything cool for nothing to blow up lol
What power supply is needed for this upgrade?
I'd go with this, assuming you aren't planning on using a higher end GPU ever https://pcpartpicker.com/product/xLtKHx/apevia-prestige-600-w-80-gold-certified-atx-power-supply-atx-rp600w
Alright
Les go so i should be in the clear now
Also does the power supply come with the cords or can I just use the ones that are already plugged in?
In the p450
It's not modular so you have no choice but to use the ones it comes with
Alright
If you want something slightly more premium with modular cables (and B tier to boot) there's this https://pcpartpicker.com/product/v4L7YJ/thermaltake-toughpower-grand-rgb-650w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ps-tpg-0650fpcgus-r
Alright
(Never reuse old modular cables unless you like fire btw)
Corsair being a notable exception to that rule
Noted use new cords with new power supplys
Do you own any of this
Because if not I'd swap that around. If you're gaming, 7600 games like the 5800x3d. If you're doing multi core tasks, 13600k beats the 5900x in multi core and 5800x3d in gaming
No I don't have any of this
Are you just gaming?
And what parts do you already own from your current build that you're carrying over?
Case, ssd?
The case does look like a heater ngl, but you can change that later. For low power parts it'll be fine anyways
Are you gaming?
Yeah
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 7600, Radeon RX 6700, MSI MAG VAMPIRIC 010 ATX Mid Tower
The 5900X is one of the worst choices for gaming, even when it was new 3 years ago
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 5600, Radeon RX 6700 XT, MSI MAG VAMPIRIC 010 ATX Mid Tower
5900x games what, 4% better than the 5600?
I switched the ryzen 9 for the x3d
It's still not worth it though
Worse than the 5600 in a lot of cases, dual CCD latency issues
The 5800x3d costs what, $300? That's the 7600+ ram
7600 slightly beats it, and you get a platform that has upgradability
Is that a gpu? 7600?
Only reason to go am4 anymore is if you already have a mobo+ ram, or you're on a very low budget
6700 non xt in the first list
It performs similarly to the 7600, either is a fine choice
It's a GPU and a CPU this year, thanks AMD for the confusion
6700xt and 6650xt are too
Oh I misunderstood that lol
Yeah 7600 what were talking about is a cpu
It performs a bit better than the 5800x3d
Also for upgradability since we're talking about it, this would give you even more headroom than the Thermaltake 650 one, but its just a matter of what you value/want to spend https://pcpartpicker.com/product/DkWBD3/adata-xpg-core-reactor-750-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-corereactor750g-bkcus
The 7600 will do you much better than the 5900x for that
Like
15-20%
7600x shall be then
While being cheaper, coming with a cooler, and having upgradability
7600 non x is basically the same thing, it just consumes a lot less power and comes with a cooler
Did you already have the aorus b550?
No
Then yes
Look at the list I sent, there's a good b650 with wifi in there
It's matx, which is fine. Unless you really really want atx, in which case gigabyte gaming x ax
The ram in there is gauranteed hynix, which means down the line if you ever feel like it, you can spend 5 minutes in bios and get it to do either 6000c28 or 8000c32, depending on which hynix die you get (either M or A)
6700 is a bit behind the 3060 ti in performance
I can't tell the difference between atx and mirco atx besides size
That's because there isn't one
Slightly larger board might have more expansion slots but most people don't care about that
Mh.
Some atx boards come with slightly beefier configurations for power delivery as well but for AM5 it truly doesn't matter
Also don't expect really anything over 6400ish w/ AM5 so far. 
You can absolutely go higher than 6400. You just can't do it without either obscene luck or desynchronising the uclk, which is kinda similar to Intel's gear 4.
Can someone help me figure out what my PSU problem could be?
My PC sometimes doesn't turn on from sleep when using the thermaltake pf3 1050w, those times when it doesn't the lights just flash for a fraction of a second, all the rgbs and the gpu power indicators. I've tried to figure out if it was the MB but I don't think so as it works just fine with a msi GF650A.
5vsb rail apparently stays on after it fails to turn on, if I want to turn it back on again I flick the switch on the back and wait a few seconds till the standby lights turns off. These are the cases in which I got had it not work properly:
-before I removed the side panels (to figure out the problem was by switching the two PSUs) it did it almost every time.
-after a bunch of turn on and sleep the PSU started doing the thing, once it did it the first time it started doing it every time after that.
-"every time after that" apparently happens only if I turn it on before all the fans stop spinning (about 6s), if I wait for them to all stop it works normally.
-before I even opened up the pc it did it basically every time it went to sleep, wether i was trying to turn on after a few seconds or minutes or even hours
Another thing I noticed is that the Dimms rgbs turn on perfectly with the MSI PSU, but the sometimes don't with the thermaltake
While testing I tried the turn off and on thing about 100 times with both PSUs, nothing with the MSI at all til now
I'm not sure about the PF3 but there's other power supplies by TT like the GF3 that were tested and had PWR_OK signals barely within spec, which causes exactly this issue if the motherboard expects a faster response.
I'm guessing same problem with mine it's a fairly new unit so they may have still these defects on the first units...? Should I rma it?
That's one option, you might have gotten a unit that fell slightly out of spec and a different one would respond in time
I could try getting the same pf3, I want to figure out if Amazon can actually send me a new unit and not just a refund since I paid it 50 bucks new and now it is over 150
I already lost many hours figuring out that the problem was this thing
Why is it that always the most expensive parts fail first?? :PepeHands:
I paid 50 bucks new
If that's the most expensive part I'm concerned
I mean its original price was 150 or even more and if I can't get a replacement unit I'll have to pay full price
Apart from the GPU the rest is slightly cheaper than the PSU
Too quote Felix,
More money ≠ more better
$150 would be expected of a higher wattage A tier unit, not a B tier like that
I could also use the MSI PSU but It doesn't have the fan stop feature and has quite some coil whine which becomes annoying after a while
I could say that about my second itx build if it didn't have the 1080ti
sfx PSUs are expensive
Even lower wattage ones
stub As gaming-grade equipment continues to set the standards for most high-end systems and PC builds, upper-range components are held to higher standards of performance as price is relentlessly driven down by market irregularities and consumer demands; for this reason, it's tempting to grab that 600W power supply for $40 online - but, of course...
We're you referring to the "power good signal" on this article?
Could the dimms RGB not lighting up properly be related to the power ok signal?
"Power Good" and "PWR_OK" are interchangeable terms, even in the ATX spec. It's pin 8 on the 24 pin, not to be confused with pin 16 which is "Power On."
The RGB could be more related to 5VSB
If any of the voltages are outside the correct range when the unit is told to wake up then the power good signal won't trigger in time, resulting in things like you've seen where the system tries to wake up but stays asleep.
Some motherboards might not allow for the full 500ms in the spec, instead defaulting to "alternative sleep" expecting 100-150ms (absolute max of 250ms).
The more I'm looking at reviews on the 850W model the more I think you got a bad one, and so did one of the reviewers. Hardware Busters found their PWR_OK was actually below the spec so if it's not holding low long enough it might not trigger the motherboard.
Ok thanks for all the info pal
I'll contact Amazon and try to get a replacement
I started making an itx case some time ago and I always wondered if I had to measure the volume from the inside or outside of the case since the side panels have some thickness, about 3/4mm
Because there would be a big difference between 10.7 and 11.6 l
Just got this 750 g5 supernova from ebay I go to turn it on and I hear 2 clicks followed by nothing
Any thoughts?
Nvm I think it's fquked
A quick update regarding my Evga PSU and getting a replacement, it has come in and I am back to sweet silent operations lol @elfin trout @serene siren All hail EVGA hehe
Very nice
What do you guys think about the NV5 or Enthroo Pro 2?
I’m thinking about doing a case swap
I’m using a G300A right now for context
I’m more lenient towards the NV5 but need to check if it has 360mm radiator support
Might do some RGB halo rings too if Thermalright makes any decent ones
fractal design manual sux
I have a super flower PSU. What cable extensions are good?
Cable extensions are universal because you plug them into the cables that are given to you by your PSU (because the ends that go into the motherboard are universal, cable extensions literally just extend this cable so they are universal)
Just don't try plug them directly into your psu unless you want some fireworks
extensions are fine usually if you plug them in properly
if you want specifically cable replacements? we wouldn't really know unless it's stated on the packet. Some communities do know what specific units are based on
you could look up your exact unit to find out what it's based on using stuff from like aris on tom'shardware?
would be difficult without direct confirmation
Amazon finally decided to send me a new tT PSU without having to send it back and get refund
So is it likely that I'll get a new working unit with the one I just ordered?
So from what I understood that's a factory defect, but could it have appeared after like a power outage or any sudden power loss?
Yes and yes, could be a QC issue or it could be subtle damage but most reviewers for that model said it was good except for 2 that had "bad" ones.
Just asking because I noticed that effect after a power loss but it could be coincidence, I had been using the pc for one week before it started acting strangely
(one week from when I installed the PSU and the power loss)
Maybe I didn't test enough but new unit will arrive soon, should probably get an ups to stay safe
Everyone should have a UPS imo
It's simply good protection for your thousands of dollars of hardware
I always wanted to get one but some can be expensive af
Amazon basics is fine
How much would that be?
You don't need super high capacity to get the protections, and you get a few minutes to shut down safely
Anything that's 500w capacity or more could be good for my use case, since I'm trying to avoid damage, not run off a battery if power goes out
Exactly what I was thinking
A little over $100 with coupon for line interactive, avoid standby models https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07RRYB3RJ
Plus it does have the USB connection that you can use to send an auto shut down signal, which is a nice feature for the price class
Nice, I'll think about it but I'll sure get it, much better than loosing another €150 psu
If that's what damaged it
(better in general to save the entire builds)
Indeed. Better safe than sorry.
I'm using an older model UPS that I picked up for free actually. Someone brought it to Staples with a bad battery so they could recycle it. I just replaced the lead acid battery and it works like a champ.
Nice, I know my uncle also has some old ups he could give me for free, they have bad batteries but I have no idea how much it can cost to replace
I also saw some ups at a local store, including the one ltt sponsors, but they range from 1k to 2k
€... Not watts
Is VA the maximum Power output, while W is the capacity of the battery...? Am I right
VA is related to battery capacity, W is the max output. Technically they're most efficient under 80% load.
If I had a male-male power cord I could theoretically power the entire house through one outlet (if it could provide enough power)
I just found a 900v €40 ups from tecnoware, power output is not specified
Theoretically yes but bad idea, no grounding
Doesn't the earth wire do it's job as usual during a power outage if the rest is being powered by the ups?
New thermaltake replacement PSU arrived, I'll be testing it tomorrow. I see that some things changed on the new box as well as some specs, maybe this one is a new revision and hopefully it's fully working
Seems like it's working fine, even with standby :]
Btw it sure is a new revision, one letter on the model n° of the PSU changes, as well as the exterior of the PSU and the internal parts are laid differently (connectors too)
Relay clicking sound is also less clicky, it really sounded like a big beefy one before
You guys know of any platform pieces I could buy that can attach to the slot brackets in a PC case? I want to get a platform attachment to put decorations on such as my crystals and maybe some figurines.
Sounds like a job for 3D printing
rip.
I have a 3060 ti rn with a 13600k. PSU is a bitfenix whisper m850 w 80+ gold. Want to upgrade to a 4070 ti. Would the PSU be enough?
Yep
Psu is great
You'd be fine with a 4090 on that
iirc multi rail PSU. So make sure to split the 12v rails well, so that one rail isnt powering the entire GPU.
Are there any fans that can replicate a proper white? the P12s I have are nice but they are making a light sky blue rather then white.
My father is a Buckeye so he hates how my Signature Black, White, and Yellow color scheme now looks like Michigan colors lmao.
I assume ur talking about RGB. In which case you can usually tune the values till you get the color you want.
I wonder if I should make a LUT plugin for OpenRGB to get more user friendly color tuning.
Yes but I can't get actual white.
Anyone able to tell me if the O11 vision is invertible?
Well if they are making skyblue with #ffffff then just gotta lower B value a bit no, so like #ffffef?
Can also look for RGBW fans. Tho as with any RGBW based thing you'll get a white subLED dilution effect (Less saturation at brighter values as the LED becomes more reliant on the white subLED).
Gotcha.
Are LianLi SL-Infinities able to re-create fairly accurate whites?
Idk. I never cared for accurate stuff so I've never looked into it. Can prolly get some RGBW strips off Aliexpress or smth.
I had a question regarding the PCIe cables for GPUs
For the cables with a daisy chain (2 6+2 inputs on one cable) how much power does each one supply?
Referring to these
Sorry if this is a question for somewhere else
According to the ATX spec, 150W each. How much they can safely provide varies by manufacturer.
This is from thermaltake
I'm not seeing specs in the sheets they provided
So that's why I'm confused
As far as power, it's all standardized. That's why it's not in the specs.
Gotcha
I've never had issues with power delivery but was wondering about it
Is there a site where it lists said ATX spec?
I can tell you I'd be comfortable putting the full 300W through one of those specific models, but it's still best practice to use separate cables when possible.
For some reason thermaltake didn't provide just single 8 pins
They're all daisy chained
That's normal
Yeah makes it hard to look nice too, but that's the way it is
Haven't been able to find a site listing said spec
If you're able to point one out I'd appreciate it
Here's ATX 2.2, there's only a few changes in 3.0 https://cdn.instructables.com/ORIG/FS8/5ILB/GU59Z1AT/FS85ILBGU59Z1AT.pdf
Alright, I'll see if I can find it there
Very confusing so far but I think I got it
I think
Eh this is confusing as hell I'll do the two cables tommorow probably
Technical sheets usually are. Mostly intended for engineers.
Me (not an engineer)
Just pulled this from the thermaltake website
So apparently my GPU has been plugged in the wrong way for probably nearly a year
Oopsie
Why wouldn't they just include a standard cable then smh
My bag doesn't have one anyways
It's not a HUGE problem but it can affect voltage stability. It's still perfectly usable unless you're really pushing it with overclocking.
This just makes it sound like the daisy chain overall only puts out 150 watts
And yeah, I don't OC
Would've been confusing if that's the case, considering I've seen my GPU pull well over 300 watts
According to the spec yes, it's only supposed to be 150W total per cable, per connector. But the manufacturers have a bit of wiggle room where as long as it meets the minimum, they can add whatever extra they want.
An A tier power supply like that GF1 definitely can handle the 300W
I've seen people put 1000W through 2 similar cables
Yes the spec is only a minimum that is required, and expected by the hardware.
It just matters in the gauge of the wire, no?
That is part of it. The actual connector itself is the other, the metals and plastics used.
Gotcha
Never understood PSU tiers too well, more so just went off reviews
Even if reviews are, iffy
Depends on the reviewer but yes, reliable ones are hard to find
We usually reference this list, and it explains the requirements for each tier. https://cultists.network/140/psu-tier-list/
Ah
Definitely a confusing topic I won't fully understand
Been squabbling with a friend over it for a bit anyways
So, gonna take it as
The daisychain/pigtails of higher end PSUs are fine to use instead of 2 separate cables
But overall it's still better to just run 2 cables
Are you sure I can't use a daisychain for my 6800xt with a Chinese $50 PSU?
For example, anything using the corsair "type" cables can handle anything you throw at it, but yeah that cheapo chinesium brand might just melt itself to death
I assume thermaltake falls into the "Corsair type"
Atleast my thermaltake model anyways s
Corsair has their own sets of cables that are interchangeable between most models, they're named type 3, type 4, and type 5. So any model that uses type 4 cables can be safely switched with another unit that uses type 4.
Ah, gotcha
Do not buy cheapo power supply cables off eBay
It was so tempting though
Extensions might be fine, replacement cables you want to go to cablemod or something
If I ever get around to getting the 7900xtx, I'll probably look into a beefier PSU
Including standard 8 pin cables
Instead of the daisychain ones those are hard to work with
That's what cablemod is good for, you can get replacement cables in whatever look you want
Looks don't matter too much in my use case, the PC sits in a nook in my desk where you can't see much anyways
(it's well ventilated, just darker)
If I could just get new cables that'd be preferred anyways, I believe the 7900xtx had a recommended PSU of 750w?
Good quality 750 can handle it yeah
GF1 850W would be enough for a 14900K + 4090
I assume the people buying 1000 watt PSUs are just into overclocking or something then
Or just sleep well with the headroom
Basically yes
Or believe that bc 4090>3090 4090 power draw>3090
I remember hearing the 3090ti come out and I was just confused at the power draw
Power draw of a small nation for my GPU please
Do you really need to eat today though
You need ray tracing in such amazing titles like
Uh
Minecraft and cyberpunk
Still haven't found the need for tracing many rays in my games
This could just be an AMD copium though
im a 40 series user
yet i never turned on rt
nor do i use frame gen much
just normal dlss
I've heard frame gen is
Iffy
The idea alone puts me off tbh
RT to me just seems like the "next thing" that was executed poorly to the point I can't see it gaining traction for the average gamer anymore
Rt is better for doing screenshots or photo mode as the rt is meant to be a cinematic experience
Unless you have a 4090, pretty much. It'll be a few generations still before both major conditions for widespread adoption happen: RT quality is notably better than non RT, and lower midrange hardware is capable of running it at at least 60-90 fps.
I've only used RT in Control myself, it's barely noticeable in most games.
What do you mean? 24fps is cinematic
Ehhh humans can't see more then 5 anyways
I'm a fan of the widly fluctuating frametimes from 2ms to 16ms
Reminds me how easily I fall ill
It's the only way to experience a VR game
Only way to experience IRL
anyone do a build with a Gamemax M905 case? My case fans are lighting up but not spinning.
The fan speed is apparently controlled by the switches on the front panel. Did you plug in the fan power, not just the RGB controller?
How much would a lian li pcmr edition go for?
I’m looking into purchasing this desktop but it says that the graphics card is 16gb but when I go to purchase it it shows it’s only 8gb so I’m curious to which it will be here is the link for the product https://www.newegg.ca/msi-aegis-r-12nud-638ca/p/N82E16883151360?Item=N82E16883151360
the 16gb rgb memory part is system ram, not gpu
clearly stated here
8gb
and don't pay 1.6k for a 4060ti prebuilt, ever
it's the same perf as 3060ti
no matter if it's the 16gb version or not
I'd recc this one instead
what psu would be good for a 12600kf and 6700xt?
not sure if a 550w would be enough or 650-750 would be a bit better
and I'm not sure what models are good quality + price
650 for playing it safe
😳
rdna 2 & intel power behaviour are both fairly erratic
unfortunate
i won't buy any screen protectors from where i got it again
swapping brands 
oops wrong channel
not general
lol
I sifted through the tier list, I think I found one to go with
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/GdwmP6/corsair-rm650-2023-650-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-cp-9020280-na
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/9GLdnQ/thermaltake-toughpower-gf-a3-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-ps-tpd-0750fnfagu-l
Prolly one of these
@vocal tree
All are b-a tier
The final part for my pc rebuild is the case, i need to get one from mc but idk how to be sure it’ll fit my psu and mb because my current case had fitment issues there
You can plug all the parts into https://pcpartpicker.com/list
Choose Your Parts
It gives a compatibility report and tells critical dimensions like max GPU lengths or cooler height
Yeah i know that it’s just that doesn’t really give info on if its a good case
Well, what's available at your local MC? We can dig through to find the gems
I’ll prob go with a meshify c because you said earlier it was good, and i like the front
Yep very solid case, good airflow. You can fit a fairly large GPU in there, 315mm.
Good construction quality
Okay, i’ll pick it up tomorrow and that should be it i think
Can you put a pc on carpet? I thought static was a problem
It's much less of a concern on modern systems
Okay
king 95 pro or h6 flow ?
king 95 pro easily
A USB 3.2 Gen 2 to USB 3.2 Gen 1 header adapter is required.
say this
what do I do
on pc part picker
alright
what motherboard is it
gonna get a b650m-a
msi
right
so I don’t need whatever that is right
Sane what's your budget rq
I can give a healthier recommendation, you might have a lot of money on the table for a much better gpu
bacca has been helping me lol
for aesthetics you might want an atx mobo?
idk if it doesn’t cost more
send the link
yea
so like this
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 7600, GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, Montech KING 95 PRO ATX Mid Tower
if you wanted something more aesthetically rounded
you could maybe even do 12600k here
ima look
prolly stick to am5 if I wanna upgrade in the future
yeah this works
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF, GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, Montech KING 95 PRO ATX Mid Tower
slightly better
could also consider this if you wanted to sacrifice the case
Part List - AMD Ryzen 5 7600, GeForce RTX 2080 Ti, Phanteks Eclipse P200A DRGB Mini ITX Tower
ITX
big itx but itx lol
alr
I might just stick to the b650m-a ngl
I don’t the 3.2 gen 2 to gen 1 header thing@right?
even if you do, the solution is like
$15
wouldn't worry about it
the website makes some odd claims sometimes
as long as it isn't saying in bold red "Compatibility issues" then I'd consider the possibility after it's assembled
often pcpp has been wrong in the past
it's a very useful tool though
Most common flag it'll throw is "you might need to update bios for this to work"
Anyone have the psu tier list? I cant find it
Ty
What about a power spec 650
I don’t know much about what i need in a psu other than i have an estimated 450w
crappy tbh
I don’t wanna go crazy on my psu because that’s a lame upgrade lol
Thermal take smart series 700?
"lame" is a heavy understatement tbh
I wouldn't
I know it’s important but i just don’t wanna spend money on it 😭
I'm gonna go A tier fr 🔥
I have a 450 br and a pure power 11 500w which are c and b tier respectively I think
or were when I built with them ages ago
is it cheaper than rm750e?
yeah rm-e is better choice
If it's the same price I'd go corsair every time
better aftermarket
Yep they always have the latest cables and replacements are easy to source
And for storage do i just need to make sure it’s m.2
Corsair 12VHPWR cable had one of the lowest RMA rates I saw from melting, and that works on all their modular PSUs.
Like 3 days ago all i wanted was a new cpu. Then now i have a whole new pc coming tomorrow
that's how it goes with upgrades
Sometimes a full upgrade is a better/cheaper option than just a cpu upgrade
POV: upgrading a haswell in 2024
why do 4790Ks still cost over $50
I don't get it
These are thankfully rare these days
yeah
they were kinds relevant in like 2015
e3-1271v3 for like 25
they were good before nvme price dip
I just upgraded to a core 2 quad yesterday, 2.5GHz and 4MB L2 cache
exactly
not worth bothering further than that
I just want to keep my haswell stuff and get it maxxed out
you can get a haswell 10 core bundle for the same price as a 4790k
the 4790k
actually the 1271v3 is LGA 1150 right?
eternally overpriced
ye
p3 is a decent choice
I’m tired of my current 512gb
Because the difference between 4th and 8th gen is like 7% max so it might as well be considered an 8th gen cpu
idk why 4790k is so expensive
intel stagnation
ryzen laptop go nyoom
very mediocre quad cores
Quad cores with no hyperthreading or memory overclocking unless you pay the i7 and Z board tax
if amd didn't manage to poke at intel
Whats the difference between p3 and p3 plus
speed
plus
but it doesn't matter
Thanks
aren't the p3s pretty bad?
no
or was that the p5
p3 is decent
Gen 3 vs gen 4, games don't care about it
P1 is ok
I think it was P2 that they were playing yankee swap with the controller/nand
yeah
Any new unique PC cases lately?
why such a highend cpu and mid gpu (just curious, i’m guilty of same w/7800x3d/3070)
but yeah fractal terra jade is new ish? not that new but very nice case
meshroom s is not new at all, like 2y old, but very nice. Streacom/NCase FF01 is great, new case, like meshroom S but with rgb and 2 liters bigger
A) I have been running on a old 5700G which could not keep up with what I do and needed to be upgraded before gpu.
B) It was on sale
C) I plan on upgrading to a 4090/5090 next once I get 2k saved up
big W
Those are my reasons at least.
same for me, although i didn’t need to upgrade I wanted to early-adopt am5 (was running on a 12700KF before)
Ahh I see.
My CPU and ram simply could not tolerate the stress I put on it anymore when I do like Adobe AE.
So I had upgraded cpu, and doubled my ram to 64GB to help with that along with I am learning Blender which benefits from Ryzen.
Ngl, I kinda like that case. Just saw it and think it would be a good case for a server.
hell yeah im doing a server build in it soon actually
might put my mom’s build in that and put the server in a rackmount case i have
I see.
Hi, I have a Lian Li case, I don't remember model number, but it has two 200mm front fans in it that I need to replace, how ever ones that I bought to replace them have the wrong case connectors on it. What do I need to look for with the replacements for the fans?
What do you mean it doesn't have the right connectors? Standard fans use a 4 pin female connector, motherboard has the 4 pin male.
the female connect in the left image (with the clip) is your fan header.
the right image, the left connector is that the same one? it's at a bad angle so I can't tell.
they are two different connectors to the same fan
The female connector is a 4 pin fan PWM connector. The male connector is a 3 pin ARGB connector.
Tho they should both be female, idk why ARGB is male.
You can pull the pins out of the rgb cable and it becomes female
ok, can not pull the pins out, y'all have a good recommendation for a replacement 200mm fan?
Montech Air X ARGB
Yay or nay?
It's ok for a cheap case
WHAT
IS
THIS
ANOTHER D31 CLONE OMFG
it looks decent
I'm kinda digging this, my new ap201 for ATX
cos D41 just never seems to be in a reasonable price
only real downside appears to be the mesh could be a little restrictive, but the mesh is on top for exhaust anyway, and it has another exhaust fan, so it shouuld pose no issue
@sand atlas ok, can not pull the pins out, y'all have a good recommendation for a replacement 200mm fan?
anyone know were i can find the standard screw positions foe pc parts?
i want to make a fully coustom mini atx case
Is this the one you bought? Because they are definitely removeable. https://www.newegg.com/cooler-master-mfx-b3dn-08np2-r1-case-fan/p/N82E16835103334
You might just need a pair of pliers
Hi! Can anybody could give me more information about those 'Sleeve' cable? I would like a white cable for my GPU, an AsRock Challenger RX 6750 XT.
Any brand to consider? Quality? How to choose?
Thank you
Cablemod might have what you're looking for. They have both extensions and replacement cables that you can customize.
Question, I have the H9 elite tower, and I wanted to know in the top mount is it possible to install intake fans? It has space in order to have access to the back panel vent, but I can't tell if it can support both intake and exhaust fans or if it's meant for just exhaust, and the users manual doesn't say, just that It can support 3 120 fans or 2 140 fans
I've seen people argue its for a radiator, intake, and exhaust
You can do any of the above, but generally front fans you want intake, any fans on the bottom you want intake, on the side it depends where they are, back and front you want exhaust
kinda wish you could reverse the flow, top to bottom
H9 doesn't have front fans per say, they're facing the back panel and the top has a glass panel and small side vent
That's why the elite series cases from nzxt are kinda ass
Not having front airflow really sucks
You'd really want more intake than exhaust imo unless you want your case to look like a dusty rock after a year
Bottom + side = intake
Top = exhaust really
Though the elite has a pretty meh top exhaust and sort of ruins the innate design of the chimney style case it copies (O11 Dynamic)
Stumbled upon a new unit if anyone sees it, just for info
Asus prime ap-g
White psu
Slightly better than MSI AG-L
So quite good
Figure this might pop up at some point in the cheaper tier so putting this here
Especially when I'm seeing tuf bronze get cheap again
Slowly
If someone can help me figure my dilemma out I'd be happy
I desperately need a new case (for the rig I got)
I'm currently eyeing 2 possible solutions, and I can't really decide
One is this: https://ipon.hu/shop/termek/kolink-citadel-mesh-rgb/1856919
3 built-in PWM ARGB fans, mATX, bottom PSU for 30k HUF
The other is:
-This case: https://ipon.hu/shop/termek/lcpower-712mb-polynom-x/2065693
-2 packs of these fans: https://ipon.hu/shop/termek/id-cooling-tf-12025-argb-trio-3-darabos-szett-fekete/1983450
-And this fan hub: https://ipon.hu/shop/termek/deepcool-sc790-2-az-1-ben-pwm-es-rgb-vezerlo-eloszto-hub/2114383
Which would be 41k HUF roughly
Nézd meg az iPon szédületes Ház kínálatát! A Kolink Citadel Mesh RGB Micro-ATX egy igazán kompakt ház, kiváló légáramlással...
Nézd meg az iPon szédületes Ház kínálatát! Micro-ATX formátumú Mini-torony kialakítású számítógépház.
- Futurisztikus front...
Nézd meg az iPon szédületes Házhűtő ventilátor kínálatát! 3 darab 120mm-es házhűtő ventilátor vezérelhető ARGB világítással és PWM sebességszabályzással.
I think the second option should perform better, but it's 25% more expensive
Rig in question is a 7600X, SE-224-XTS ARGB single tower air cooler, Prime B650M-A Wifi II, Powercolor Hellhound 6700 XT and a 650w EVGA GQ power supply
I'm not entirely sure if it'd be worth going for the case that has no fans in it but can hold more fans
I'd say first one
Kolink citadel mesh is pretty decent. Build quality of either case won't be the best, but performance wise the citadel is solid
the LCPower is also full mesh in the front, and it can fit three 120mm fans
but it comes with none included, so that kinda sucks
But that way I can have fans that exactly match the one on my CPU cooler
One more fan wouldn't do much, especially at that price difference, citadel mesh
oh no it's 3 for the Citadel vs 6 in the LCPower
cuz I'm not able to buy more of the fans in the Citadel which has 2 in the front and one in the rear


