#cases-psu-and-cooling
1 messages Β· Page 2 of 1
eps connector is like the pcie connector
is an additional power, the mobo provides power as well
It's additional?
Ok
But is 3.3v for CPU like converted to the CPU voltage it uses? 1.2-.3...
Does it have specific use
Or connects to specific pins on the CPU?
thats the work of the vrms, they downsize to power specific voltage to the cpu
No fair :(
But then what's the point of using 12v EPS and not 3.3? Efficiency? Heat? Idk
Or either using 12v instead of the 3.3
to downsize to other voltages thru the vrm
there is a whole world inside a cpu architecture, it uses a lot of different voltages, an effin lot to work
You mean they just use 3.3 because it's better to convert?
you are drowning on a glass of water
Idk the ins and outs exactly but ye something like that
cpus use a lot of different voltages, and the mobo cant power them all, thats why you need the additional eps to provide power to the vrms to downsize voltage to manageable leveles
I guess 12v is used because less amps = less heat = more efficiency
And with 12v few amperes you can provide many watts (which is required for modern CPUs)
voltages the mobo cant provide directly
pretty much
Makes sense.
Cant just plug the power line from the street directly into your toaster.
Gotta have something to reduce the load to a level the appliance can use.
your mobo provide a lot of different voltages to your cpu, but when the cpu require more power then the vrms draw that power from the eps, downsizing those 12v to the different voltages your cpu need
Ok.
I understand.
PSUs and voltages can be complicated sometimes
Aaah
Nicely explained
Good
Could you link it?
well, that explain how vrm and power phases work, maybe is not what you want xD
It's ok, just more knowledge
The basic principles of how a motherboard or GPU VRM works.
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time to bed π
cy later nerds
Fractal Design Meshify 2 RGB vs Corsair iCUE 5000X RGB
Which one is better? Thanks.
Meshify 2 RGB, 5000d airflow is better performing than 5000x
$135 Corsair 5000x (corsair can send out airflow panel for free or for like 10$ on there store) from tech-deals
Meshify 2 ends up generally being better in standardized fan testing, so I'd take meshify 2 still unless it's a lot more expensive
π
π€’ π
Gross
Can't even fit a 240 
Wait a second...
How the hell do you plug display out, VDE and MB I/O?
The RGB SSD on top of a PSU is the most cringe thing I've ever seen
no airflow
Dude why have a 240 when you can 120+120+120+120+120+120+120+120+120 
There is a lot of airflow but it is just ugly
bro this is perfect for minecraft
Exactly
If you put exhaust fans I don't think it will do it's job very nicely
I can dig it
Oh god it really looks like the case π
Does anyone know if the msi mpg a gf 650w is a good psu?
I couldnβt find it in the tier list
it is
Single Rail A
It's value hasn't been very good recently tho
I don't understand the difference between multi rail and single rail in terms of what they do.
One central thing that gives out all the power vs multiple different things that give out power to connectors separate of each other
Which is better?
Or is there that big of a difference?
Depends
Multi rail can be nicer at 850w+ since it can mean more precise protections for each rail, like for each connector, instead of like the whole 12v rail, but that can also be a bad thing, as we've seen with some seasonic prime units, since each rail gets their own ocp/opp, it can also mean drawing an amount that wouldn't have tripped previously now trips, which can happen with ampere and the huge transients causing problems

Ah ok. I have the Antec HCG Gold 1kw. So it should be good with the 3080 12gb aye?
- Mind blown so much brain ocp trips *
Felix got me trippin about a new psu
You should be fine
But lightning in the same place 3 times with issues you should buy a lottery ticket and swap psu if the pc still trippin lol

I did buy a lottery ticket. 50 of them. I didn't win a single $ back.
Ive heard "cool" 1.2kw PSUs trip before (EVGA/SS). Tho that could be from daisy chain 8P + multi rail PSU (Meaning, much easier to trip cuz power isnt split between the low OCP rails), also could just be they used 500w 3090s, not really much info out there.
Also note that if your PSU is old, its based on the old SS platform which is even more sensitive to transients.
Assuming you get a 450w 3080 12gb, prolly be good idea to split up the load between as many rails as possible (should be able to find rail config online). Unlikely to get issues but still apparently possible based on old reports.
I got a 3x8 3080 12gb. My PSU is single rail though
Ah, whoop. I doubt any issues will arise tho. Haven't heard of people complaining about OCP issues for a long time.
Gary had some issues with his 3080 (ti?) On a rev df
But that's multi rail only so yeah
What PL was 3080, what DF was it, and did Gary split the load between the rails?
P sure it was a 850, not sure on 3080 model, and pretty sure he ended up balancing load
But that's the minor issue with the df
It's got another kinda issue that sucks
grill
Most multi rails wont work well with transient heavy loads on a single rail.
Is that not screwed in
upside down setup most fun setup so nothing lost
So add the 4000d (airflow) to the list of rev df no good cases
Inwin had some on there
so add nothing of value to a list, cool
So basically the screw holes won't line up so you either leave it unsecured, who would do that, or just flip it so fan is up
Yes, just worth mentioning tho since sometimes it can be a reccomended case
Just something to keep in mind ig so people don't go crazy trying to install it lol
i dont reccomended
It's like corsair ram blocking top mount rad in td500 mesh
nothing of value blocking something that's good
If it said "phanteks" on it, you'd be shilling the hell out of it tbf
Pic is too dark to really see PSU, but you should be able to screw PSU in. It may not rest on the bottom PSU resting thingies in the case, but it doesn't really need to.
man you're forgetting I'm a CM case shill at heart
Can't screw it in with fan down
Achilles heal of rev df with some cases
Fan grill protrudes so the holes will never line up
LCiiM and O11 air mini best cases
It's like how I'm a Noctua shill at heart, it's just price doesn't usually line up to the value standards
No arguing that
i hate you
So PSU is up too high then?
Yeah
the grill just hits the bottom of the case
Can't remember, is the grill easy to take off?
Β―_(γ)_/Β―
Protected by bottom of case. Also fan is def inside case.
Based on that pic
Hei did I ever send you the "BAPC in one screenshot" pic?
Nop
It does, was actually a pain to take out of pc, had to turn on side n stuff
anyone have the bistpower titan one o11d case?
i gotta figure out how to remove and clean out the distro plate. just @ me
Anyone know how to test PSU if it's working properly or not?
Because my computer sometimes doesn't turn on (flickers and turns off) and I'm trying to figure out if it's a psu issue.
I dusted out my pc and it was working fine for like a week or so but now it's acting up again.
Could be the motherboard, could be the PSU.
Try updating your BIOS.
Could be worth checking all connections are fully seated
I looked into updating my bios I'm kind of scared I wasn't able to find compatibility guides and I heard people saying it could damage your data.
Alright I'll try that.
It's weird cause when it works it's fine but the moment I try to turn it on there is like a 50% chance of it not turning on.
There's no "compatibility guide" because there's only one source for the update that'll work, and that's the exact product support page for the motherboard.
As far as data loss, that's only in extreme and unusual cases like using bitlocker but having no backup keys.
or a blackout in the middle of a bios update :S thats the worst case scenario :S
bitlocker worse then corrupted BIOS, BIOS is pretty easy to flash with external flasher
Especially easy when you have flashback
Or dual (backup) BIOS (Mainly GB)
guys is there a way to connect front io to a dell oem motherboard? ( optiplex mobo )
I have no idea what those things are flashback and dual bios.
Flashback lets you update bios without a CPU or turning it on fully. Dual bios has two chips instead of one to store the bios data, and you can switch between them as needed.
Is it one that has the power button physically attached to the motherboard? If yes, it's possible but will require soldering.
Ohh gotcha thank you.
Oh btw for like psu testing do you know of any software I can get to test my psu if it's working properly?
I wanna do that before messing around with my motherboard or buying an actual psu tester.
Not anything that'll be able to tell if there's an issue before it boots up, but I usually run furmark and cinebench at the same time to test power draw. Prime95 works for CPU as well. There's also the occt power test that does basically the same thing in a nice UI.
If it's failing to start sometimes a bios update often helps, but it could be a faulty power_good signal from the PSU also.
power_good is teh same thing as power_ok right?
They're interchangeable terms yeah
idk i saw some video on youtube that says it require a adapter for it but im looking for a way with out it ( maybe a case with out front usb will work )
Sorry I took a while to respond but it boots up fine like most of the time after I dusted out my pc. It's only sometimes that it would flicker and turn back off. (Most of the time I am able to turn off psu hold power button then turn back on the psu and the pc.) I know a brief outage occurred with my pc connected directly to the wall but I want some way to test it is actually broken before sending it to coolermaster for a rma. I'll try the occt power test, I think I saw it somewhere on a forum too. Thank you!
Imma perform occt power test. I hope my psu doesn't fry. >.<
anyone built in the hyte 60? trying to see if able to to vert mount my 3080 ti strix and not restrict the air flow of it
Considering the card is basically triple slot, 56mm thick, the airflow may be restricted
Will be. That case gives breathing room for 2 slot cards but 3 is dead against the glass iirc
What metrics do I need to be looking at while testing my psu? My +voltages looked normal last night but this afternoon I was unable to turn on my pc. The lights flickered and turned back off. I had to turn off psu and hold down the power button then turn the psu on to finally turn my pc on again.
My cpu and memory benchmark on OCCT was performing way below average.
OCCT is a stability test suite, not a benchmark. If there were no errors then you passed.
What should I look for regarding psu voltages and power draw?
All I looked at was the +12 or +5 voltages measurements.
is there is a clean , futuristic lookn case that is still a rectangle
am not a fan of the cases with goofy shapes
actuall alot of cases look futuristic
i cant explain how i want it tho
i want cyberpunk like
Hyte makes a couple that I think match that description
software is really not reliable for those kinds of readings
what you had sounds like an OCP shutdown, since it generally requires the PSU to be flipped off and on again
which can be caused by a ton of things
My assumption was the power_ok signal, since it would shut off very shortly after trying to power on.
And since you're here, any idea where the EVGA P+ 1300/1600 rank?
could be too... but normally stuff like that is OVP/OCP/UVP or alike
issue with P+ is that it's really really loud from what I can see
considering the heatsinks on them are basically non-existent
my RMx has more surface area than the 2kw version of that platform
Interesting. So it'll probably be relegated to B tier based on that mostly I'm guessing?
well, we technically don't consider noise a part in the tiering, just in the sub-tiers
but it's more of a there are better options kind of thing
Luke, know anything about G2/P2 issues? I remember being told something was wrong with them at one point
I remember the g2 550 atleast having a kinda kicker, not sure how far up in G2 models it goes
Was power ok or hold up time related iirc
Ah I see. I was hoping to test it with software before sending it to coolermaster for rma because idk if the powersupply is actually the issue.
Regarding PSU to be flipped off and on it's kinda weird also because sometimes it works but other time it just flickers again and powers off.
But someone told me to hold down power button to discharge energy or something and that works like 90% of the time.
Oh yeah I don't know if you read my previous messages as well but a small outage had went through it but idk if that is the issue.
PWR_OK didnt work as intended, just let PSU caps run out and gave voltage drop to the entire system for like >1ms (actual time is not recorded edit: voltage drop time not recorded, PWR_OK to PSU shutoff time was recorded). Its unlikely to kill components, but there is no proof to say if this is harmful to the components. When it was discovered people were much more scared about it then they should've been, so there was lots of noise about the issue. May not be my first recommendation if for someone who gets brownouts ever 5mins due to lack of info, but it's still prolly safe
I'm curious. Is it possible to have my GPU hooked up to another PSU that has nothing else hooked up to it? Would it still work or does it need to be connected to the Mobo still?
Still need to short PS-ON and ground so PSU turns on. For really old PSUs (which idk why you'd be using one, but fun fact ig) you'd need to make sure there is always a load on PSU else PSU turns off (mostly annoying for turning on PC in this specific case).
So yeah it'll work, just need to short two pins on 24P
Is that dangerous? or is it like doing it on the mobo?
I would assume something like putting 1 little wire in 1 pin and same with other then touching them for a split second to turn psu on?
Would it be the same way to turn it off?
No extra danger should be there (apart from the technical stuff like 2x the failure rate cuz 2x the PSUs being used, or like making sure both PSUs are off and mostly depleted before doing maintenance on PC)
As for pin shorting you need to keep them shorted to keep PSU on pretty sure.
Gotcha. So I could essentially make a switch where when flipped, it completes the circuit, then flip again to break the circuit.
I'm kind of entertaining the idea of using this rm 750 for my PC and then using my Antec 1kw for the 4080/4090.
I'd be making sure everything was kosher though for sure.
Should be able to just use PSU back switch. If you like being fancy, then a 24P splitter which shares PS-ON
oh thought even with the psu back switch on, you had to short the ps on?
unless I just misunderstood this
oh I see nowww
that's cool. I'd for sure go that route
Also potentially wont work or be helpful for two main reasons:
-Doesnt help with transient loads much, if ADA is truly transient heavy they ye hecked with 99.999% of 2.0/2.31 PSUs
-Any 12+0P adapter will be limited to 450w, the 4 data pins are required to unlock the 600w limit of the 12+4P cable (lock should be on GPU side). So at max you'll have a 525w GPU with transients prolly being the same as a 500w - 550w 3090Ti, which isnt really that bad. Unless that Antec PSU is trash with transients it should be fine for ADA given the cable limit
what is this 12+0p/12+4P?
is that the new style of connectors for the new gpus?
I'm hoping my 850 gt would be fine for a 4070/5070
Got it for $50 off b stock, so not a big deal if it isn't
Nvidia made the new 12P connector (Now dubbed 12+0) kinda sorta for Ampere and was based on the upcoming 12+4P ATX connector. One should be able to plug the 12+0 cable into a 12+4 slot, but with the given limitations explained above. This was mostly cuz 12+0P had little control going on. So designs like 2x8P or 3x8P (which afaik doesnt exist) to 12+0P can exist (2x8P to 12+0P exist at least).
Fun, that was probably it, do wonder how that compares to a-gf's inaccurate pwr ok
ah I see ok
Why my pc turns on 5-10 secs after i press my power button? What might be causing the issue? I have vs 450 corsair psu
- Try disconnecting anything you don't need when starting it up to see if that does anything
- If it's older, cmos battery may be bad (way to find this would be having non-stock bios settings, shutting down PC, and unplugging it for 5-10 mins, then plug back in and turn on and see if all your
bios settings are still there) - Could be a corrupted bios
Probs some other things to try too, that's just what I came up with
could also just need a bios updoot
Its a new build... My processor, motherboard and ram is new..
Running i3 10105f
Asus prime h510me
8gb ddr4 ram
Gtx 1050ti
If my bios is corrupted... Will it effect me in long run n how? Kindly explain
If your bios is corrupted, your pc wouldn't even boot
Or something like taking long before it actually starts turning on
Corrupted bios means pc no boot at all
Can I run a 6600xt on a 450w psu?
how am I supposed to control the rgb on the Lancool 3?
like what software should I downloard
Yes
It it's a good one you might get away with it but there's not really any good 450ws
Avoid group regulated 450W since they can only do about 350W in reality
The way you tell is by looking at the sticker, and if the 12V rail can't give the full rated power it's group regulated
what about the thermaltake smart 500w?
is it like a decent psu?
No
Here's a great place to kinda check in to what's good or not
That's in the "hazard to other components" tier, unless it's the 80+ white label one in which case it's the "hazardous to life" tier
Id get like a tuf gaming b or something to be safe
so what do you recommend a psu under 50$
For that 6600 XT and what I assume is a low power CPU?
I'd personally stride for the g6 650, but if that isn't possible, probs tuf gaming b 550
yes
This would be acceptable https://pcpartpicker.com/product/8P7CmG/evga-bq-500w-80-bronze-certified-semi-modular-atx-power-supply-110-bq-0500-k1
terrible
this one?
?
tuf gaming 550w imo
Is that under $50 though
60$ does get you G6 650w
49 :)
i only have 40$ rn im trying to find some dollars in my mom room
Oh it's non modular that's why it didn't show up in my filters
lol amazon moment
for under 50 you cant really complain
$72 plus it arrives later than free shipping π
They should still take it
it takes like 20 mintues for me biking to the clostest store
The store brings it to the bank and the bank decommissions it
I mean, you could also do like
https://www.bep.gov/services/mutilated-currency-redemption
but that doesn't seem bad enough to warrant that
Yeah that's more like someone drew over Benjamin's face with a sharpie
They donβt have 15$ gift card in the store
They don't have the one where you choose how much goes on it?
25
and my bike tire is flat π¦
is there any good psu that are around 40$?
Not that I can see, tuf cheapest decent thing I see
yeah but nwo i need to spend 30$ on fixing my bike
its like deciding on a gpu or fixing our family car... hmmmm... now that i think of it.....
jk
yeah but i just cancled some orders now i have 90$ left to spend
then as the guys said, tuf 550
i was looking to buy an ssd (500Gb ) but i have some 120g so i might have ot keep using that one
this one right?
y
Could get silicon power a60 500gb
And yeah, that's it
i have 90$ i spend 50 on psu
Yeah, a60 500gb (might be 512, I forget) is like $35
i need sata not m.2
Or s31 sometimes
Hey about this.. When i turn on my pc, it doesnt show me any bios screen... Just black screen thn windows login screen appears... No bios screen.. No windows loading screen nothing... I have fast boot enabled in windows.. Google says that if bios is corrupted then bios screen doesnt show up.. But i can still login to windows n play games.. Browse internet.. Watch movies etc.. Im really confused here..
Sorry for the late reply.. I was busy at work..
Bios screen logo is a sign of fast boot being enabled
You can get to bios through the advanced boot menu. Hold shift while you click restart.
or repeatedly press "delete" and let the magic do its thing
Disabled fast boot now... Any advantages of disabling fast boot?
You can access bios easier
Depends which fastboot:
-Windows fastboot generally causes issues and glitches for faster Win boot times. Always ideal to disable that.
-BIOS fastboot disables certain POST checks and removes most of the "pause" time to read POST info or get into BIOS. Rarely causes issues, do whatever works for you.
Windows 10 fast startup option...
I have only 8gb ddr4 ram... My fast start up was enabled for 22 days... When ever i start up my pc, my ram usage stays 3.6gb idle... Today when i disabled fast startup n restart windows, the ram usage decreased to 1.7gb idle..
Oh well fast startup in windows doesn't really do a full shut down it kinda puts it in hybernate
Hybrid sleep they call it
I don't like it tbh
Fast boot windows actually is kinda nice to leave off imo, that way the kernal actually resets when you shut off and turn back on. So if you're having weird windows glitches and crap and have fastboot, shutting down and turning back on typically won't fix if it's an issue with kernal. Restarting would be the fix, which sounds kinda weird but it's true
New asus psu has cybernetics H rating 
H for hazard?
H for bomb?
Idk maybe i heard wrong but sounded like h which was supposed to be silent under all loads or something?
I need a cheap case with 6+ hdd bays. Any suggestions? I'm from Canada
No cable management
Def a big hdd bay though
I'll consider it but looks like a 10 years old case xF
That's what you usually get for cheap cases with many drive bays
I bought a rosewill one a few years ago
It had many bays
With psu shroud
But i think it's discontinued
pretty cases dont have that many drive bays
Something like meshify 2 is neat and has a bunch of drive bags but not exactly cheap
Enthoo pro, define R5, that kind of thing, nice but 100$+
Is this power supply any good?
I want to buy it as a test power supply in case main one dies.
It doesn't say which model it is exactly but it's probably a B or A tier model
ty for saving my life
At that price it's meh
Could do G6 650w for 80$ or a-gf 750w for 90$
If it's gp-p LLC resonant, it's tier b, not bad, if it's not, it's tier c/d material, kinda bad
^^^ last i heard it was the LLC but who knows tbh, id rather get a guaranteed good unit
Yeye last time Luke said they really didn't know for sure
50$ budget
15% tax
Tuf 550 then
i got that one
So quick question. Upgrading my psu to 850 gold and modular. I am pluging a VGA into the psu that goes to my GPU. I have the single end at the GPU and the end with the 2 connectors at the PSU. Will it hurt anything or power surge or anything by having both connectors at one end plugged into the PSU?
So 2 connectors plugged into the PSU leading to 1 connector leading into the GPu
Yes. you have the cable backwards

Direction matters?
Solid 8pin goes to psu, always
no, i said that to confuse and lie to you
There's nothing indicating direction and hate having that second connector dangling in view
yes it matters
Aight. Love the indicated rudeness. Preciate it I guess.
And FYI. The way I have it has the solid 8 at the GPU already.
So.
the solid 8 is not supposed to be at the gpu
it's supposed to be the 6+2 at the gpu
Here I actuallu have a recent pic to describe. (Left cable being only 6pin to make it perhaps more obviouz even if these are extensions).
I lot of people should watch/read a few things 1st. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v7MYOpFONCU
Thanks Intel for sponsoring this video! Learn more about how to build your own gaming PC at https://lmg.gg/edWob
Linus is taking the reins away from our film team and giving you his own view of building a gaming PC. This is a first person build guide featuring Intel's 9700K CPU will take you step by step through the entire build from scratch.
...
Should I buy a used very good psu from amazon warehouse?
Will it still have warranty on it?
read the warranty on amazon warehouse items
I couldn't find it, it just gives you the same info as the normal new product page.
your best aproach is to contact amazon itself for that
And if you click the "click here" for product warranty it just tells you "Please contact the seller directly for warranty information for this product. You may also be able to find warranty information on the manufacturerβs website." 
How do I contact them?
I posted a question but idk how to like email them.
just to ask about warehouse warranty

Tt pf1 is nice price atm, 850w for 90$ and i saw rmx 850 yesterday for 100$
I checked amazon for that rmx apparenty the seller is very sketchy.
Sad :(
Everytime in this vid i hear seasonic ballsy for sponsorsing, must have good psu's i just think s12ii 
https://youtu.be/b3x28s61q3c
Thanks to Seasonic for sponsoring the unboxing of our new Power Supply Tester, and helping us spec it out! Buy a Seasonic Prime Platinum PX-1300W: https://geni.us/R0aH6
To prep for our upcoming Labs initiative, we ordered something more expensive than BOTH of Linus' vehicles combined... a massive Power Supply Tester worth $133,000. We can't wai...
Apparently interchanging psu ac cables for coolermaster may void warranty?
Also anyone know how do i package my psu for rma? Along with my psu cable?
Also if we lose our original psu cable do companies send a replacement??
They wont know unless you tell them you did so it's all good lol
Originally packing if possible, you probs don't need to send back the cable although might be no harm, it depends on the company but probably not if you loose it, you can buy them for pretty cheap tho, they're just called kettle leads, a 16 or 18awg would work
Is the 5000d airflow panel metal or plastic. I was hoping it would be compatible with the NZXT puck but the website doesnβt specify I think
Metal
Thanks. Just finished doing my case swap for a 5000x but I still need to call for the airflow panels
Uhh I told them.
Damn I screwed it up huh. 
I need help I'm going to UPS in a bit. How do I ship my psu to coolermaster for rma?
I don't have original packaging.
What do their instructions say?
I feel like this is a question for them more than us lol
They really donβt tell me much tbh.
Also is this normal?
Sorry for the bad quality photo but thereβs like a pin thing missing.
That's by design 
Oh ok my heart stopped for a sec.
I was like struggling so much to pull that pin out.
Also those with transients issues, but not as big of a deal as not as dangerous and SS actually tried to fix the issue. Certainly really good PR for them on average tho
It says "(preferably in it's original packaging)" meaning if you don't have it, you'll have to arrange your own
Cardboard box, some paper and a large esd bag for the PSU itself would probably be ideal
Where can I find a esd bag?
Would walmart or target carry those? I want to send the psu out asap.
Walmart and amazon seem to have them but I don't live in the states so I couldn't tell you
Alright I'll check them out thank you.
Also do you happen to know if swapping ac cables really could void warranty? Because I checked with a lot of sources and people that apparently ac cables are standardized but coolermaster says it might void my warranty and is telling me to send it with my psu.
Ac cables are fairly standardized, not fully fully tho. Ofc that doesn't mean it will or won't go against their warranty, since that's up to the company to decide, and it doesn't always make sense for every situation. As far as I know, aslong as the ac cable uses thick enough wire (awg) for what you're unit would need on rated, and they didn't use complete crap terminals, it's fine
But yeah cooler master would have the final say on whether that effects warranty or not
I got a tripp lite 18 AWG.
Fingers crossed coolermaster send me replacement. Power supplies are so expensive I really don't want to buy another one.
Yeah i just hate the "insert brand always good mindset"
I feel like cardboard would be a decent way of prototyping a case before i go through the trouble of doing literally anything else
not sure what i will do about airflow though
because there will only be one opening and it will be a wide and flat one, luckily
or snuff that. If there is a case designed to be all-in-one portable much like
then i could just use that for a start
Why not just get the new tiny intel nuc
i already have a sizable gpu lol
the original idea was to fit everything into a pelican case
much like something like this
yeah
Smarter Shopping, Better Living! Aliexpress.com
this could almost work
oh
not for that price lol
Any thoughts about this?
Reason: Bad word usage
What?
I'm not sure tbh.
I kind of want to future proof idk if that is overkill.
Hi
5800X I could sort of understand with a 3x8 pin 3080
5700X no that's a 65W chip
I would get a 750W if you had those plans
thing is, ATX 3.0 is on the way, so PSU future-proofing is basically pointless (Let alone the concept of future-proofing to begin with)
if you're gonna pull the trigger on the new CPU and GPU, 750W should be alright
What is 3x8 pin?
Ohh like the power going into the gpu.
ya
The 6 and 2 thing?
Does the 5600x or 5700x not match well with a 3080?
So the 3x8's are the power hungry ones, like 450W cards
5600X is fine for even a 3090
cpu's are really powerful these days
lemme find you a 750W psu
Wait so I'm still confused with this part and the 5700x part.
Ok thank you.
5700X is a 5800X but lower power
basically the same
but 5700X I could see running on a 750W
I was looking at the prices of 750w A-tier power supplies and they were all about 90 so I thought the 850w would be fine.
Ohh so if I had a 5800x then 850 watt would be good?
Also what is atx 3.0?
ye I'm seeing now 750W GF1 and '22 NZXT C are both 80 so an extra 10 into an 850W is worth it
wouldn't pick a 5800X over a 5700X
lol
but yeah that 850W isn't a bad idea cos it's only 10$ difference
this one
Reason: Bad word usage
eh
omg in the link

or this if you decide 750W:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07SL9NFVS
The fully modular Toughpower GF1 series is available in 650W - 850W models and built to deliver 80 PLUS Gold efficiency. The series features a 140mm hydraulic bearing fan, Japanese capacitors and other premium components to help deliver a continuous and stable power with an ambient temperature up...

Is thermaltake a good company btw?
I haven't bought anything from them and worry about rma if something comes bad.

Ahh ok.
much like most companies, there are good things, and bad things
Wait also I saw this under speculative in the tier list.

Is it still considered an A tier.
GF1?
oh yeah I knew about that
So is that fine?
I think it's pretty good.
Iβm from πΈπ¦
they still don't have info on the 2022 one hence it's speculated based on the 2019 one
Ohh I see.
Sorry, I shouldn't have suggested it, stick to the Thermaltake ones we talked about
So this one is new and haven't been tested yet? 
by the cultists yea
So which one should I get now?
GF1 750 or 850 if you upgrade the other stuff
Ohh is low priority also included with speculative units?
Wait I'm so confused.
wait the GF1 is speculative A now 
How you pull that up so fast. 
I search a lot when I try to help someone 
Wait so the high watt ones are the untested ones?
no?
Just stick to GF1 750W or 850W if you upgrade the cpu and gpu
if you aren't upgrading yet, then wait until you do
there might be something cheaper later

Power supplies are so complicated. 
and yet there are people that will go super cheap on theirs cos they don't know how important it is lol
Me LOL.
I went for a coolermaster mwe one.
nah I'm talking much worse
It's now being sent in for rma.
My tweets?
No
the NZXT C 2022??
its not speculated to be based on the prior model lol
its known to be CWT CSZ
only testing on this platfrom though its only on MSI highter wattages
so no testing on lower wattages which the C 2022 uses
the older model is just a focus
Thank you for clarifying
i am geting i3-12100F and RX 6600 and 16gb ram and H610 and like what power supply is the best?
Depends on country
Check pins, any A, B and some C tier psus on the tier list would do fine
@weary vine idk what sites to check for India
Well there's a lot more to psus than just wattage and the 80+ rating, so I'd be careful when buying
like do i use a 500W power supply?
500w would work, but model is very important
do i need more Wattage
No
But if the model is bad, you could end up frying your pc
Such as Thermaltake smart or evga w1/n1
Or old gigabyte pgm
The MWE Bronze V2 offers 80 PLUS Bronze certification guarantees an average efficiency of 88% at typical load. The new generation DC-to-DC + LLC circuit design allows the unit to convert power from the single +12V rail reliably, efficiently, and safely for a better overall user experience. For a ...
this good?
B tier is fine
But I'm not sure if I'm right on what tier it is
And I'm on mobile and at work
So I can't really check
.
Check the pins
ok
Ahhhh ok im back
sorry i got a little busy after and i didnt get time to look at sites and make you a list, but feel free to dm me ill get back to you tomorrow
Guys what psu should I get I am getting the evga 3070 and I have a ryzen 9 5900x. Heres what im looking at https://www.amazon.com/EVGA-Modular-Warranty-Supply-210-GQ-0850-V1/dp/B017HA3SO0/ref=asc_df_B017HA3SO0/?tag=hyprod-20&linkCode=df0&hvadid=309833041189&hvpos=&hvnetw=g&hvrand=715807397995488761&hvpone=&hvptwo=&hvqmt=&hvdev=c&hvdvcmdl=&hvlocint=&hvlocphy=9014979&hvtargid=pla-493762053545&psc=1
Introducing the latest in the EVGA Power supply line-up; The gq series. These power supplies take some of the best features from EVGA award winning power supplies, like EVGA eco fan mode for near silent operation, Japanese capacitor design and a highly efficient design, at an excellent value. The...
gf1 750
or nzxt c
If evga & a decent setup, I also suggest minimum G5 or GT.
g5 kinda meh
doesn't handle transients super well
tho 3070 doesn't have crazy transients
Exactly. Just saying how GQ is worse than all of these afaik. At least there's tons of options for 3070 based setups
ye
What are some really big and really cool cases with EATX support that can fit a 420mm rad or bigger under $800?
The SilverStone FARA R1 mid tower cabinet is designed with lightly tinted tempered glass side panel and mesh front panel for increased airflow. FARA R1 supports upto 280mm radiator at the front, upto 240mm at the top and a 120mm radiator at the rear to create the ultimate liquid cooling system fo...
Anything, falshier?
what
good or bad?
Oh, thought this was recommendation for my request. Sorry for the misunderstanding.
lol
np
The SilverStone FARA R1 mid tower cabinet is designed with lightly tinted tempered glass side panel and mesh front panel for increased airflow. FARA R1 supports upto 280mm radiator at the front, upto 240mm at the top and a 120mm radiator at the rear to create the ultimate liquid cooling system fo...
airflow good ?
Until someone helps you out, I'd recommend watching some review videos.
Yea
air flow
?
That's decently as well yes
what is better
Probably Fara but whichever is cheaper and genuine
but on yt he is tell dont buy this
?
Whichever one is cheaper and a genuine seller
I'm too busy rn to look beyond the discord previews
ok
still waiting to see what's inside them
but NZXT isn't gonna tell me any time soon
Same as gf1 though, no?
I genuinely don't know for anything for the C1000
and I've only seen CSZ at 1kw, nothing lower
Ah
for all I know it can be CSE, GPU-G, GPR, GPX, GPW, downscaled CSZ, CSC, CSH, GPS... or even something custom
most likely is GPU-G and GPR, CSE was custom, GPX and GPW look quite a bit cheaper, CSC and CSH were specific to Thermaltake and not that amazing, GPS has a ton of variations, most of them not fully modular, but you can make it work that way
and well, I'm yet to see CSZ downscaled
but considering NZXT doesn't talk to me and I can't get them here for a reasonable price...
So what I'm hearing is GoFundMe/Patreon
We do have a Patreon, it's not even that I can't afford to
I'm waiting for one to show up at a reasonable price, until then I'm covering different units I'm interested in
For example, already reserved a Hela 850R at Silverstone
Send me a Hof 3090 (I'm in USA so same issue) and I'll send you a c750 2022
Lol
What can I say, I'm just a businessman
im sure this gets asked a lot but... H7 or H510?
G360A
yes
Both are terrible choices
is it worth case swapping a hp pavilion tg01
Most HP computers you can't case swap because they use weird form factor that are just far enough off from ATX.
Typically, a "case swap" in dell or HP terms, roughly translates to "case + psu + maybe CPU cooler + motherboard" swap
Corsair CV power supplies are ideal for powering your new home or office PC, with 80 PLUS Bronze efficiency guaranteed to continuously deliver full wattage to your system. A 120 mm thermally controlled cooling fan keeps fan noise to a minimum, while a compact casing makes for an easy fit into nea...
bad
why
it is for a RX 6600
It's bad
AMD got G Sync?
Freesync
is it same
and for a RX 6600 120hz good
?
monitor
Modern "gsync" monitors are just rebranded freesync anyway. True gsync requires a separate module that uses too much power on sleep and makes it so the monitor can't be sold in about a dozen states for failing to meet idle efficiency standards.
Oooo
144hz more common
Definitive version of my mini case, (LΓWΓH) 32cm Γ 14cm Γ 25cm.
Changed basically everything, (also used triangles instead of hexagons for fan holes), the case can support motherboards up to 19Γ23, two 120mm fans top and one 80mm back. Can support a 240mm rad if the thickness (together with the height of MB and fan) doesn't exceed 24cm. Supports every GPU below 315mm. Tfx PSU compatible only.
45mm max CPU fan clearance.
+need to add front io holes (usb, pwr, 3.5mm jack) and a hole for vde cable extension
Hey people
My 550W psu is starting to get up there and Iβm starting to run out of wattage, Iβve been looking around and wondering, is this a good psu that wonβt blow up?
I know theirs a tier list but I canβt seem to find it there
No I meant like I canβt seem to find the psu on the tier list
And yeah thanks I think Iβll get RMx then
Ohhh
Ok
Couldnβt find the specific model but I guess theyβre all under one category
Good to know itβs a high tier psu
Any1 know a white case with RGB fans?
I changed my mind as it was to expensive and I went with an 4000d airflow
New ssupd meshroom looks like cool larger sized itx case π
Any reviews on it yet?
Wth 2x280 rads
What would be a fair price USD for a lightly used Corsair Obsidian 900D?
im gonna assume its a PSU issue but my computer has just started resetting for no reason and its never done this before it just started today
could be psu, what is happening though?
my computer just resets randomly
ive only had it happen so far when im playing a game
but it shouldnt be drawing too much power cause ive had this combo of parts for almost a month with no issue
Run OCCT power test, if it shuts off it's your PSU
Like reboots? Blue screen of death? Black screens?
Hey Iβm looking to upgrade my pc I recently bought a 3080ti but my power supply doesnβt support does anyone have and recommendations? The card is 3 8pin while the one power supply I currently have is 2 6pin with one of them being +2
Complete restart no BSOD
What country you in?
Weird, did you try falcies suggestion? Also what model power supply is it
@fierce pivot US
Thank you so much
It says 2 8pin from that power source. my GPU has 3 8pin slots itβll work with 2? Again Iβm not to familiar sorry for all the questions
@fierce pivot
says it has 6 pcie cables and it has 5 slots in the psu for it so it'll definitely cater to the gpu and cpu no problems
whether that comes as pigtails or singles it's fine
I highly doubt 6 singles lol
Not entirely sure this is the right place to ask, but does anyone have any recommendations for cases for a Pi 4b?
The kit we got previously has a case with pretty bad cooling and the fans aren't very effective
What wattage PSU should I get if my plan is to OC a RTX 4090 + 13th gen I9?
1200w+ at least
Gold, plat, or titanium rating?
efficiency doesn't mean anything
1000W if you get one that's ATX 3.0
it doesn't indicate quality
it only indicates efficiency
you have to look at a psu one by one
but there's a tier list pinned in this channel
A tier on the pinned list is what you want
^
I really need to make a pcpp parametric filter list for PSU tiers... That's a project for when I have my motherboard back though
Got it, also would that mean I should be safe with say a 1500 watt psu?
btw
no one really knows how power hungry the 4090 will be
you should wait for the official specs before jumping into any conclusions, just to be sure
I am guessing very hungry based on rumors.
rumors only
Got it, gonna take a loot around and get a rough list made before hand just in case though.
I won't buy the parts until official specs are released.
Well, with the exception of the case.
The be quiet! Dark Power Pro 12 1500W offers 80 PLUS Titanium efficiency and world class performance due to fully digital control and frameless fan concept. The most technologically-advanced PSU be quiet! has ever built. β 80 PLUS Titanium efficiency (up to 94.9%) β Fully digital control (PFC, LL...
This is a good PSU I am assuming based on the tier list?
if you are planning to use it for the 4090 then you should wait for the next gen of psus as well
atx 3.0
Do these parts usually all come out at about the same time?
they should, 40 series is rumored to use the new 12vhpwr connector
and those will come with the new atx3.0 psus
What does this mean?
I am not sure what PS2 PSU means.
It's the form factor
Since it says "(optional)" does that mean a standard ATX PSU would work fine?
Amazon is known to have plenty of nonsense and useless/incorrect info on listings, don't worry about it
PS2=ATX yes
Got it, thought just incase. The case I am getting is the thermaltake tower 900.
Got it, thanks.
just ran a 10 minute power test in OCCT didnt reset
I would try test your memory, you can use occt for that too, let if run for the whole hour, if it gets one error its unstable
I donβt remember the exact model of power supply but itβs a 600W evga 80+ rated
Ok
Yeah that doesn't mean just anything really
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/4FH48d/evga-w1-600-w-80-certified-atx-power-supply-100-w1-0600-k1 i believe this is the model
also ran the memory test nothing of note to report
rip
i need help with a PSU, i really dont want to cheap out on this but i also want to stay under 100
im thinking of the Corsair RM (2021) 750W and the Gigabyte P GM 750W. (both 80+ gold)
is there any psu better than those i just listed
Do not under any circumstances get the gigabyte p-gm unless you feel like filing insurance claims for your house fire
would you say that the psu that @elfin trout recomended is good?
The G6 is great yeah
cool
also for my case im deciding between the p300A and the NZXT H510 Flow
i need a mid tower case and mesh front is what i mostly want
also under 100
P360A is a better option, more room to work
i dont really want rgb
You don't have to plug it in
im building a pc for my dad and he said he wants nothing flashy
4000D airflow if it's still cheap doesn't come with any rgb
Stick some black p12's in it and it looks clean as hecc
Case prices across the board are up due to increased material prices
About 5-10% up on most models that weren't overpriced to begin with
how many fans does it come with
2 on the front
120mm?
Yeah
k
That's a fat replace immediately
W1 is a fire hazard
Straight up F(ire) tier
Reason: Bad word usage
oops
damn
ive had this PSU for like 1 1/2 years
thankfully my psu didnt burn down my house
Anyone know any sfx psus that have 5 pcie/cpu connectors? 850w or more?
Here's 2 https://pcpartpicker.com/products/power-supply/#th=5&e=6,5,4,2&A=850000000000,2050000000000&G=5,18
Choose A Power Supply
Of the two the cooler master is better
But the other one is 1000W
Best to check the actual label on the psu by taking off the back panel because you said ppl helped you pick the psu? That one is one noone should be recommending
They didn't show up in your list
I figured out why GameMax has gotten such a bad rep, and why Amazon most likely banned the main seller they had. Also why they refunded my two units, letting me keep them lol. If you check the real website, and the real 1050w PS, the design is different than the 850w. All the seller has been doing, is buying the 850w model at $55, reselling it at $120, changing the name plate, easy thing to do. So people who use the PSU, thinking it's 1050w, are only getting 850w, hence why so many reports of them dying. What I find difficult to figure, is testing the power supply, because unless your running everything, there is no real way I can think of, to verify you got a real one, other than the markings or opening one up to take real readings, hence voiding the warranty. So my next question, what's a good priced reliable RGB power supply, other than GaneMax? Someone told me I don't need a 1050w, an 950w is fine. My next build, Series 12 Aorus Master LGA1700 I9, the $799 model. RGB radiator fan, non water type due to vibrations here caused two Corsair ones to slip their connection,hence leaking in machine. 64gb Ram, four 2TB NVME, 7300read/8100 Write Kingston Fury, RTX 2060TI 8GB, RGB, 9 spindle drives sata, PCI express 6 SATA adapter card since mb only has 6 SATA ports, a blue Ray player, Hauppauge VHS to AVI conversion card, 12 120mm RGB fans. Think that's it. 850w or 1050w? One thing I noticed, what happened to dual rail power supplies? Seems the few $350+ ones all say single rail.
Why would you go to the 12900k with a 2060 super? Or 12gb? Such a huge waste, grab a 12600k(f) or 12700(f) instead, also same goes with 64gb ram very little amount of people can use that much, and having that much can be harmful towards performance, would be better off with just a 2x16gb kit, assuming you're in the us,
This would be more than plenty for a new cpu and 2060 variant at 60$
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/W4Tp99/gigabyte-ud750gm-750-w-80-gold-certified-fully-modular-atx-power-supply-gp-ud750gm
Also gamemax just have horrible units
950/1050w psu units are pretty rare, you have more variety on the 750, 850, 1000 and 1200w as standards. Multirail units are goin extinct, single rail is the standard these days. Plus you dont need argb on your psu, it will use another valuable connector on your mobo and most of the time is hidden in the shroud anyway plus argb only rank up the price
The RTX I already own. The only new parts I purchased were the I7 for my kids, and the I9 for myself. I plan upgrading the RTX layer on. If you look me up, you will see I'm the old reporter who used to promote Ultima Online and Earth and Beyond for Electronic arts back in the days, when they were the ones who set the standards for all the MMORPGs we see today. I do work now a days for multiple companies, programming, mod making on Steam, which you can find my work there quite easily. As for the KF and K CPUs, you can thank Newegg for limiting CPUs to 1 per person. When my boss offers to pay half, not just me but my kids too because they sometimes do some side jobs, I grab the offer immediately, not tell them, hey, can we wait 48 hours a few times to get all the equipment? Was already given 2k, only spent $3600 total.
For 3 builds.
When you say it's a waste. I was under the impression that the CPUs with graphics, were low end and RTX was much better. Only benefit I have had is when I need to use multiple cards, can borrow one from another machine, and that machine can still run without the card. It may not be able to play high end games for a bit, but it's just for a short time to test titles out on multiple monitors, which is rare.
If I built systems weekly, maybe I'd have chosen differently, but I tend to build them, every 6 to 7 years, and they don't get out dated as quick. Rather spend now, then go cheap and then stuck next year needing to spend when I don't have the funds. Next year won't be easy either. One of my kids graduate, prom, all the extra expenses. Better now than later.
Btw, the $799 I9 was only $534 when I purchased it. $85 promo code plus 10% off entire order.
Silverstone SX1000-LPT 1000 W 80+ Platinum Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply vs. Cooler Master V850 SFX GOLD 850 W 80+ Gold Certified Fully Modular SFX Power Supply
I send it back, unopened, 15% restock plus shipping back well over $150. I'd be saving nothing.
cooler master only has 4... D:
I need 5 for custom cables
RIP my bank... gotta buy freaking 300 dollar psu
they both have 2 eps and 6 pcie
Never heard of Silverstone. Corsair, Thermaltske, Cool master, those I know, and don't see much, lately. I see a lot of brands I never heard of which is why I asked about the PSU. I been lucky from what I seen of feedback using GameMax all these years.
I have extensions but they wont allow me to use them on a daisy chain
not sure why
Sounds like cheap/bad extensions
Oh, reason I lost trust completely with Gamax, is that seller, selling 1050w units for $120, which are really 850w, with label change. That's why Amazon booted them. When I talked with the real GaneMax manufacturer, they were willing to sell to me, but only through Alibaba. I lost count on the scams Alibaba sellers tried over the years. Overseas bank wire, that's never happening lol
$115 for their Aura sync 1050w model, plus $99 s&h each unit, regardless of how many you get. Bank wire only? I'd rather risk sending 20k in the mail to collect my 100k winnings. (The above statement is sarcasm)
Anyways, maybe I wasted money, maybe I didn't. To me my own build is like someone's car. I can't drive, so I like building a system that looks and runs perfectly, especially when I have to look at it for 7 years. I'd hate to build a crapper that I'm not happy with. Bad mood = bad work. Bad work = my next build I'll have to pay the entire bill heh.
Oh, the Phantek case I bought myself, gave to my son for his build. I went for the all glass Thermaltake.
Brb, getting links
π
Nah you don't need tooo...
I always gut the Thermaltske RGB system for my own. I built my wife's system last year, and not only like the easy maintenance, but how easy it is to assemble. Sadly I won't have a USB C port or my blue Ray writer, the Phantek case has that option.
Asia Horse D:
Well what gpu are you looking to upgrade too? 4080 level or something
also you dont need an usb-c on the case, you should have one as well on the mobo IO shield
its a welcome plus, but either way you will have one regardless
Not sure yet. Current games I'm working on are Realms of Magic, OutWorlder, and Necesse. None of which require or need RTX support. Depending on next projects, and what I want to play, will be my deciding matter. The RTX I got, was only to play Minecraft RTX, and got that RGB card when it was $250. If I'm going to buy a much better version, it's going to be used for more than just Minecraft. Not mining. Will not go near that crypto pyramid.
gpu mining will be dead in about 2 weeks anyway
You don't need to go near mining and ray tracing isn't the only reason to get a better gpu, you can get better fps and or jump to a higher resolution or increase detail settings in game
I use the C port for my equipment a lot. Having it in the rear is a pain. Having it in the front is preferred, but my experience with any case that comes with the option, the ports always short out within a year.
maybe you need an external usb hub to solve those problems
Your close. I run ribbon cable extensions from inside the case to front card hub. Not sure why, but when I do a full new OS install, if I use the USB, the system blue screens. If I use a sata extension from inside the case, it doesn't.
Card hub is $20. When connectors or ports break, I toss the $20 hub and plug in another.
not quite lol
Something similar to this, but has two USB C connections for my NVME enclosures. I don't like reusing an enclosure as the NVME card pins tend to wear and break easily after a few insertions. Rocket NVME killed two only after a few uses.
but eth mining is indeed going to end
Check this out on @Newegg: Multi-Function USB 3.0 Hub eSATA SATA Port Internal Card Reader PC Dashboard Media Front Panel Audio for SD MS CF TF M2 MMC Memory Cards Fits 5.25" Bay https://www.newegg.com/p/0DS-01NH-00035?Item=9SIARUCCTR4894&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-9SIARUCCTR4894-_-09032022
On phone?
ye
Nokia by any chance?
One thing I had happen often with my older Nokia 7.2, would be the scrolling issue, but worse would be where wifi took over from data. I could be let's say here in #general-chat , disconnect and reconnect, and discord would still say Newegg, but I'd be connected to #general-chat in let's say Terraria. Last year I told mod in space haven, not to tell me what to do on my server, only to find out I wasn't in my server, I was in his
Or worse, if I'm trying to talk behind someone's back, to find out Im talking to their face!!! (Joke)
Anyways, with the hub, I can now make my blue Ray portable. When I replaced my clunky monitor, with a 26 flat screen with blue Ray built in and my RTX, I picked up fast the many resolution selections, which was when I noticed I needed glasses lol. Couldn't read the small fonts.
@fierce pivot I got the new psu and got everything up and running just need to upgrade drivers for the new GPU thanks again for the recommendation
Phantek case was a bit disappointing. No where did it say that it required its own fans and RGB components. Tag on the cables was the only thing with warning. Easy fix was to drill out the controller board, place my RGB controller board in its place, and use my pin insertion tool to swap pins around so the lighting cables that came built in, could be used with my own equipment. One thing I find hard to find, are pwm fans that actually use the motherboard fan pins. Lately every RGB fan set, carries the fan power with the fans addressable cables.
If it wasn't for the fact, one wire is used for some of the color selection and fan power, I'd have unhooked the two or 3 pins, and add a header connection to the motherboard.
Actually, going to meter the lines. Might be able to do it, adding a diode or bridge.
Bbl
What case
No prob
I do an average of 5 new system builds, every 6 or 7 years, but on average, swap out cases for newer ones that have options I need. I'm learning that just about ever case like the Phantek, that boast RGB, fail to mention their controller or even that they have one, will only take their components. A practice old Tandy Radio Shack started very long ago. That's why I know how to beat it, and use my parts, not theirs. Most of time all they do is change pin configuration. I have since made a few male and female adapters, that change the pin order. Only fan that I can't for the life of me figure out, are the GiM fans, that seem to share power. The fans are actually pretty good visual effects, even more with Aura sync. Only thing I don't like, one in 10 spin off the spindle, held by a screw.
Brb, been procrastinating writing the manufacturer, doing that now.
You wrote a paragraph and still didn't answer the question
You mean which case I'm talking about? One sec.
Check this out on @Newegg: Phanteks Enthoo Pro TG PH-ES614PTG_BK Integrated RGB Lighting Control Tempered Glass Side Panel ATX Full Tower Computer Case - Black https://www.newegg.com/black-phanteks-enthoo-pro-atx-full-tower/p/N82E16811854069?Item=N82E16811854069&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-11-854-069-_-09042022
I actually purchased this last year, and never got around to transferring my old equipment into it, but then ended up buying 3 complete rebuilds. I7 for my kids, and I9 for myself.
enthoo pro with rgb....?
All phanteks fans are standard fans with standard argb
if it has argb strips, dunno
When I bought the case, it had no mention of the RGB controller, but inside it has a standard fan block, with another RGB that is clearly labeled, only Phantek light strips and fans
There is also no HDD led.
this stuff is standard argb, no need for any fancy thing as long as your mobo has argb
https://www.phanteks.com/Neon.html
no hdd led sounds like a plus to me lmfao
I'm to use to the led. Used them for years to tell if something crashed or just slow as hell completing
Seems more you pay, less you get, and new gen can care less. Normal. I'm like everyone else..love the new tech, but like some of the good ole days features.
...?
Like the missing speaker or no HDD led.
There's just better ways to do everything and the old ways just get in the way imo
like hdd activity isn't indicative of anything you need nowadays, if windows is on the HDD, you shouldn't be buying a 150$ case
debug leds are way better at troubleshooting anything
post codes too
Well, the motherboard and Windows install DVD with no drivers, expecting you to download content, instead of providing a CD or thumb drive on a $400 motherboard, to me is a pain and inconvenient.
Lots of msi mobos provide a usb w/ drivers, just sayin. If you're built at least one PC should know to automatically get latest drivers using another pc anyways. π€·ββοΈ
Aorus z690
tbh I would rather they get rid of dvds but it's there for just in case
Modern mobo + modern OS will come with usable drivers from the get go. Then you can install the latest drivers from a site instead of 2+ year old drivers.
Eh, windows already comes with basic stuff. I'd rather not let windows deal with drivers that I want to install as windows rarely has the latest stuff.
Latest and greatest are rarely the same
can i get a an idea for psu cables for this Sea Sonic Focus Px https://seasonic.com/focus-px#gallery
i'm not even sure what the awg is either
i just want 3 PCIe for psu without a extra connector
The problem is, the Z690 Aorus motherboard, came with no drivers, other than what was in the bios to load the panel that's supposed to get the new drivers. Fact it comes with wifi, but not the drivers to actually connect to WiFi, very sloppy in my opinion. For me it's just easy connecting an external drive that has them already downloaded, but the venom in the forums by people who don't have a secondary system at the ready to get those drivers, I can understand their frustration. Few years back when on vacation, the manager purchased a used Asus system and windows home which had no drivers for WiFi or even their slow USB, which causes a problem. I noticed a card reader, which shockingly worked so got his driver's on my phone, and with adapter plugged the card in. He did the rest once being able to connect
Seasonic has a compatibility list. That's an A tier so they'll be 16 gauge stock cables. https://seasonic.com/cable-compatibility#
Fal, shockingly one of the 3 gamemax power supplies were actually true 1030w with Aura sync cable that works, other two were 850s relabeled which Amazon refunded me for. Been using GameMax for years, except for a Corsair 750 I use for emergency backup, though only has one cable for MB, unlike today's two. All power supplies say use their cables only, others will damage equipment. Since I never got around to actually taking a meter to test voltages, is this use only our cables a farce?
it's the awg gage, each company has there own wire gage pretty much
although larger wires should be safer even on psu that use smaller wires
the thing is sea sonic doesn't sell there own wires unlike evga
π although it would make life much more better if they placed the awg on the items pages
I made Y cables for the Aura Master MB today. Expensive board boasts top of line RGB, yet only two sets of headers. Made two sets so PSU, Fans, Case lighting, and CPU fan all could be controlled by the motherboard. Would be nice if one day they made these things with passthrough.
A awg 18 wire is pretty standard and can carry constant 300w (4+4eps or 6+2pcie)
Amazons website. Do a search for full tower and get mid tower. Do a search for 16tb spindle and get pages of 3tb drives.
or place them also in better spots
AWG, the wire gage. Once ordered a 100 foot heavy duty extension cord, pictured the orange cable. Needed it for portable AC. Got an orange extension cable made with speaker wire
was it a 32 or soemthing?
One sec
Southwire 2549SWUSA1 100-Feet, Contractor Grade, 12/3 Extension Cord, With Lighted End; Red White And Blue, American Made Extension Cord, Indoor and Outdoor Use, Water Resistant Flexible Jacket https://a.co/d/5FRRNnp
Coleman Cable 02549-USA1 American Made Extension Cord, Contractor Grade with Lighted End, Red/White/Blue, 100-Feet. Rugged 100-Feet red, white, and blue outdoor American extension cord. Contractor grade 12-Gauge extension cord is dedicated to the American contractor. Made in the USA by an America...
This is what I paid for. What I got was actually a return where the customer replaced the cord with something horrible.
dang rip
Had similar happen with an order of 4 MSI GTX a few years back. One was a swap out which MSI verrafied another registered owner. Sent a copy of the message, because they wouldn't say who it was, and Amazon sent a replacement. Ironic someone swaps something they registered.
.
MSI I'm a bit irked with. They forced an update, and now the software refuses to adknowledge the RGB of my RTX 2060ti. Try searching old versions, and the few places I went, heavily virused.
you can try open rgb
Open RGB?
This I'm going to check right now. Brb
although it can't find my RTx 3080... maybe you have better luck
i should really ask the people at evga
2060ti? π³
Knightwolf, thanks!!!! Finally shut that off. It's nice when your on your system, but when your trying to sleep.
π i know that feeling
It's not the lights so much as my wife making it a point, that if she can't sleep because of my systems lights, neither can I.....
Yup, 2060TI RTX. RGB, forgot if it's 6gb or 8. I'll have to take a look. I got mine off of Newegg while they were still $250. RGB, worked well with RTX Minecraft.
Brb, checking invoice.
MSI RTX 2060 GAMING Z 6G GeForce RTX 2060 6GB GDDR6 PCI Express 3.0 x16 Video Card RTX 2060 GAMING Z 6G
Your right. I ordered a few GTX cards so my mind hickupped.
Wonder if the ram in those can be upgraded.
Nvidia did a big bad for Turing. Decided that Ti didnt exist (apart from 2080Ti) and used Super
Also that be interesting. Usually Windows has some meh driver available to use by default
Sounds like that was just 3090Ti, but Nvidia realized that using super was bad and they stopped
Saving every cent and sending even the super branded ones out
Lmao
Kind of like the GTX 2080 appearing a little while ago
What were you saying? 
100% real no virus
Even better with GTX. Which is why I suggest getting a GT 2010Ti Super.
I can't sleep with any light on
That is so true. By the fact that once I added the drivers, it did a slew of updating, Id haphazard a guess that the builders DVD may have been an earlier version. They mass produce them and put in cheap packaging. I'm willing to bet, had I spent $299 on the retail plastic box one, this most likely wouldn't have happened.
How scared should i be to run this psu with my setup
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08MV9694K?tag=pcpapi-20&linkCode=ogi&th=1
https://pcpartpicker.com/list/fMzJNc
Not scared
im taking a 1650 super from a hp pavilion and putting it into that build i made
all i have left to order is matching sticks of ram







