#cpus-mobo-and-memory
1 messages · Page 39 of 1
Although I heard some people say chipset might be bad idek
Just like an hours worth of downloads
Yeah something might be borked
I'd try fresh from the top again
It could be the 22h2 bug
I did it from windows installation media but not through USB just like the install now thing
Anything specific to get around that this time?
Use win 10
Fresh install
Straight from the top

Have like 500 windows updates though lol. Might see if those help
Damn is it just a coinflip during installation?
I’d go back to win11 if it don’t happen there
That's possible
Yeah possible
I mean I'd do it next just for clarity's sake while the windows install is young you know
Cos you could go through all the other steps and land at that answer later and you're even deeper into installing 
Yeah I had a screwed 3080 for a while that made me reinstall windows like, 5 times
Painful process 😭
Retesting then reinstalling. Thanks for the help y’all are too kind
Cpu score is around 13.8 and graphics is at 32.3 now
A lot more normal it seems, could it just be like not dialed in ram cpu etc etc?
This is with max GPU oc though so probably not
Will reinstall either way
Yeah I'd go for the reinstall
You'll get like, big stuttering on games with tanked fps in some situations with the 22h2 bug
I was getting a solid 120 in RDR2 but it looked like 50 with no vsync or freesync on
The lows were like, 90-100 maybe?
I try to keep my 1% lows at my refresh rate, so the average is a lot higher generally
Not bad
Yeah and on my old cpu it was buttery smooth
Just gonna reinstall and go from there 🤷♂️
CPU score went up a ton, GPU score a little. Think I just gotta lock in my OC more
And FPS in games were way better
So who knows
Sounds like that did it
It went from like, 13.7 to 14.3 with the same settings
A good 600 points, that's pretty significant
Technically above average for the setup
I have no clue how some people got like 37.8k graphics score
Gotta be like custom loop or somethin
Is the cache not like super sensitive to temperature? Or is that only like high temps
Sort of but honestly the 7800X3D can run perfectly fine off the stock wraith coolers
They lowered the tjmax so it never becomes a problem, too
Sounded definitely like the 22h2 bug
What is 'EVC'?
External Voltage Controller
Hard mod where you bypass the power delivery on the GPU and use an external card you solder on
oh
So fixed the lights and false CPU failier beeping. Now last puzzler, is why is my server booting up on its own. My daughters same thing. Entire family same motherboard, and CPU I7. I'm the only one who got the I9. Fact it's happening to my daughters pc as well, quite baffling. Oh, forgot to mention the issue. Both computers are powered off, not sleeping. Off. Some time after 1am or 2am, they power on and boot themselves to windows. Back in the days, this behavior was caused by one of our cats, stepping on a keyboard, or shoving a mouse out of the way, but those times were sleep state. This, they are completely shut off. Yet 1 to 2 am, they boot up on their own.
Make sure wake from usb is disabled in bios
Or something along those lines, might be power on instead of wake, ik my motherboard has that option
If that doesn't work, clear cmos and re-enable xmp and any other changes that would have been reset that you changed (fan profile possibly being one)
I'll take another look, thanks. I had to look at my z390 and compare the bios with the z690, both Aorus Master. Was supposed to see a lot of features were only renamed and moved to sub menus. If this fixes it, I'll be set.
So...
I just found out about pcie bifurcations and I was wondering if a x16 to two x8 is like just PnP, is it?
I'd like to also add a 4 port nic on my so called "server" that only has one x1 pcie lane slot available (actually there would be another one if I consider the m.2 slot but let's keep it for later on), this NIC has x4 pcie interface and I was trying to figure out if it could work (maybe just one port (that'd still be ok) or if it will straight up not work. Of course I'd need an adapter to connect the thing
Bad alternative: cut the pcie slot to allow for bigger expansion card
It's not quite plug and play. The motherboard, CPU, and add in cards all have to support it and you'll need to enable it in bios.
A mining riser might be what you're looking for. It'll give you a x4 slot at x1 (or x4 on higher end risers) wherever you need it and some even run over USB.
And of course the risers are dirt cheap since the crypto crash
@teal badge so not all cpus, ram and motherboards are created equal
They all run to certain ranges considered acceptable in production
So one cpu might love doing x at y speed
And another likes doing z at v speed
But both are acceptable
So what this means is you can't just simply copy anyone's work and expect it to work unfortunately
What works for one person won't necessarily if at all work for another
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What makes this video good is this works on almost every damn cpu in existence
It uses a safe range of timings expected to work
Rather than something specifically tuned by someone else to the fastest their cpu can go
Similarly yours can do it's own speed
And could be better or worse
It's all a lottery
I'd just do the easy timings video and then do a day of stress testing with like
Testmem5 on the anta777 config
And run 6000-6400 MHz
The result will be far, far better than any 8000+ XMP
You could aim for like, nearer 8000? Maybe 7600? But I reckon you'd be spending far more time than a day
Maybe weeks of testing to pull off
And the result will only be a couple% faster if not even slower in some situations
Than just, 6000-6400
Due to the desyncing that happens above 6400
Make sense? @teal badge
Cos I have to go in a minute but I think you'd be way better sticking to the $80 kits I'm suggesting
Remember, always, always stress test if you do any overclocking
Here's a link to where to get testmem5 anta777
Hello everybody
I am just making a very light tutorial with a collection of custom config files and a DOWNLOAD LINK for TM5 v0.12
anta777 absolut config Official Intel DDR4 24/7 Memory Stability Thread
None of the work is mine but it seems like a pretty good and fast testing app
Update...
Run that for at least 3 passes, but to be safe do 10
so just overclock the timings and it will be better than 8000mhz xmp?
On AMD yes
The issue running at that speed is you're running the uclk at half the mclk, which severely harms performance in most tasks
what is uclk and mclk
uclk is one of the clocks related to the CPU communicating with the RAM, mclk is the actual memory clock
When you're running at 6000, mclk=uclk and both are at 3000
Running at 8000, mclk/2=uclk so mclk is 4000 and uclk is 2000
The memory itself is faster than the CPU is communicating with the memory
so what you want to do is having mclk = uclk?
That's the most efficient way yes
so ill just need to overclock my timings
And the CPU isn't going to be capable of running more than 3000-3200 uclk so you're looking at 6000-6400 memory speed depending on luck
Timings are a much better way to overclock here yes
so ill buy the t create ram with 5600 and overclock it to 6400 with lower cl latency?
That would work well yes
As long as it's hynix memory you can follow those timings from the video
You can tell if it's hynix based on the timings. If it has flat timings (40-40-40-40 or 32-32-32-32, like that) then it's definitely samsung and you should avoid
This would be hynix more than likely, 32-36-36 timings https://pcpartpicker.com/product/6JLFf7/teamgroup-t-force-vulcan-32-gb-2-x-16-gb-ddr5-5600-cl32-memory-flbd532g5600hc32dc01
so to wrap things up, im buying the kit u sent me and overclock the speed to 6400mhz and overclock the cl and it will runs better than a xmp 8000mhz?
Yes
6400 will be based on your luck of the draw for the CPU though
You could be stuck as low as 6000
It would still be better by far
Most likely yes
And difficulty is waaaayyyyy lower than trying to run 8000
so should i buy the tcreste or rhe tforce
Tcreate if you want to tune
Vulcan if you want to just turn on xmp and go
Tcreate is definitely a die, best sticks by far for ddr5
Vulcan could be A or M
M is still very good
i noticed the t create has a very bad cl latency
Gitta go sorry
does it mean that i will be harder to oc the timings?
A or M doesn't matter on AMD tbh
ok np
so just get a vulcan to oc and ill be fine?
Either kit works since you'll be tuning it anyway
But the Vulcan kit would be better if you weren't tuning
so this is tuning right?
hm
theres a 6400mhz cl32 t force expert kit
is it better than the 5600mhz cl46
should i buy the 5600mhz cl46 or 6000mhz cl48
it is for the same price as the 5600mhz
I'd do 6000 c48
thanks guys
Happy to help
so heres my build https://pcpartpicker.com/list/PZq2mD
Part List - AMD Ryzen 7 7800X3D, Radeon RX 7900 XTX, Montech AIR 100 LITE MicroATX Mid Tower
Looks pretty good to me. I'm guessing the SN770 was chosen for a reason?
its either not available or just notoriously bad pricing
(in my country)
also that 2tb one is for only $80
im guessing lowering the latency (cl) timings of the ram also decrease the speed of it?
Lower cas latency is better
But you don't need to worry about the rated speed since you'll be overclocking
Which country?
im just gonna say south east asia
That's ok if you don't want to say, I just wanted to see if I could find a better deal but it wouldn't save you all that much in the long run
5600 cl46 is guaranteed hynix 6000 cl48 is not
So 5600 cl46
He'd know better than me on that
Listed as broken, user says "don't know the reas why it doesn't work"
Well... I also wonder why... 
Fascinating
I see no problems here.
All that plastic is optional.
I don't see those settings on the Aorus Master Z690, but am going to test something tonight. Sorry for late reply, just saw this and done a lot of googling to find out what many, like yourself similarly said, I found a similar setting on a driver that Microsoft replaced as better than what the motherboard came with, which has a two line option in windows itself to power up on both Ethernet adapters and WiFi. Going to uncheck it tonight and see if that fixes it by tomorrow morning, as I don't feel like sitting at that server, waiting hours for it to boot up on its own lol. Worse than watching a pot boil as the old saying goes.
this isn't something that just started happening by the way. It was one of three issues I been happening with only my system. I built 4 of them back in August 2022. Only difference between mine and rest of family, is mine has an I9 CPU and a 1600w platinum EVGA power supply, theirs is I7 and Gamax PSU. You don't have to tell at me for that. I have 3 more EVGA PSUs still waiting to install, but my two kids and wife won't let me replace them since they don't want to give up their RGB PSUs just yet. Oh, forgot. I also have a 6gb RTX RGB card, theirs are 12gb. Hence why I was the only one getting the 5 beep CPU failier warning when monitor was off. Only been this week I had all the time in the world to get those issues fixed, leaving the random powering up one last to be fixed. I got into a nasty scooter accident. Was thrown from my scooter, because the idiotic cable company putting in fiber optics late. They stopped in 2020 due to pandemic and only started up recently in my neighborhood. They cut 6 inch swaths of cement out of the sidewalk in front of every house, then didn't bother to put lights or barriers of any type out when they left for the weekend, so not knowing the sidewalks were missing those 6 inch with swaths, was going uphill and front wheel fell right in, throwing me at about 10mph. Tore both knees up, cracked a knee cap, and got glass in one knee and fingers. Two broken fingers, and fractured right arm, In a weird way that it only hurt when moving fingers. Wasn't wearing a helmet, so lucky I didn't hurt my head, but was wearing knee pads out of habit as scooter I use, was a recall. Amazon refunded me for 3 of them and let me keep them if I purchased the replacement PCB and wheel assembly to fix the deadly manufacturer defect of the Machweel scooters, which killed someone already. They used to go 25mph, but manufacturer forced updates to drop them to 10mph which is what caused so many accidents, that Amazon banned their selling by user and manufacturer
Combined. The issue is, even if you don't install the application, that scooter has a check that it will do if it passes any open WiFi
when it's updating, it locks the front wheel till it's done. Problem is, it's hardwired in to lock that front wheel no matter what, without even checking to see if scooter is in use. So imagine going 25mph and drive by a Starbucks shop with open WiFi. You will suddenly be flying. Which happened to me at 10mph, hence why I use the gear now, even though I replaced the bad hardware.
so when wheel fell into the hole and I was thrown, my knees clipped the edges of the open sidewalk, pushing them up and tore my knees and broke kneecap.
So yeah, I got some free time for a few weeks. Not allowed to work while on pain meds, or drive a scooter for that matter.
oh, very extremely rare occasion, I won't be handling the case prose. My area of expertise is civil, and this accident involved both retail, and state, so not a pretty situation to have to deal with
I'm great doing my own cases, 100% win civil, but this one id screw it up. So I'll let someone else deal with it 😉
That's my novel for today 🤣
Oh, if this does fix my problems, the windows setting, I'll let you know. Seems a lot of bios settings, are getting moved to Windows 11 as features. If a setting is missing from bios, and not renamed, it's likely the OS controlling it now.
Chat gpt summarize this essay
Your English teacher may have told you to right more but take that advice and shove it in the bin, noone wants to read an essay like that
Way to many words noones gonna read that, just being brutally honest
Word efficiency is a wonderful thing
I just shortened your paragraph into a 6 word sentence pato how does it feel 😎
Lol. In 2002, got an email from an English teacher who read one of my articles on EA's website, when I used to work for Stratics and EA, promoting Ultima Online. Was quite insulting on how I would never have survived his English class had I been one of his students. Turned out, he was my 9th grade English teacher from like 13 years prior. Stopped by the school, went to his classroom with an autographed copy of Ultima Online with what might have been the shortest message I ever written in history. (I was) LX. Put it on his desk while he was teaching a class, and watched him walk over. Took a minute for him to realize who I was when he paled 😂
I used to order extra Ultima games for him when I was in highschool. I bought from Computer Software Service, at 60% off. This was when the C64 was a big thing.
I also used to complain that writing current events off of two chalk boards every day, was too much writing.
It's been fully tested. Found the fix for the problem of z590 and Z690 Aorus Master motherboards booting up on their own from a full shut down, not sleep mode but full shut down. Seems on newer Gigabyte motherboards, options normally set in bios, have been moved to the OS, Windows 11 at least. Check the properties of the connected Ethernet adapter. If turn on power is checked, uncheck it and when you shut down, system will not boot back up.
how can you find what controller the Z790 Ace uses for there Lan Ports
The manual mentions that there are two controllers but no mention of controller type. The LAN driver description mention it's for I225 or I226 tho.
probably 2 crappy i226 v controllers that drop connection lol
Hey, what is more powerful? An AMD 5 2400g, or an AMD A6-8500E series
If both are cheap AF/free, go for 2400g cuz way more modern platform as well as faster. Very high chance to work with AMD's last gen CPUs (basically only wont work if mobo vendor is sad and pathetic with BIOS updates).
@grizzled bloom laptop upgrade was a major success thanks again for the hardware choosing help
what are some good and usually cheap (used) lga 1151 cpus? is there anything comparable to like a R5 2600 for 40-50 bucks?
8400 might be cheapish
Otherwise 8700, 9700, 9400
Potentially 7700k if cheap enough
Every 14th gen cpu
What does T mean?
what cpu would pair best with a amd 6750 xt
Depends on budget and what you're doing
no budget just ballin tbh
i would prefer a intel cpu what are the differences between those ones
Brand is irrelevant when it comes to cpus now, cpu doesn't change user experience at all
im aware
You can get a 5500 for $60 and a b550 aorus elite for $50 on tiktok shop
idk i cant really explain it
Part List - Intel Core i5-12600KF
Get the motherboard and ram on tiktok shop on two separate accounts using the new user coupon
If you want a bit better of a motherboard, asus b660 pro art is $90 after the coupon
And there's a teamgroup 6000mhz ddr5 kit for like $46 after the coupon
would it be worth upgrading? i currently have an i7-17000
is there any bottlenecks or anything like that with what I curently have?
It's impossible for there not to be a bottleneck
i mean like something noticeable
What ram, power supply, case, and monitor do you have
11700 with 6750xt, even at 1080p, gpu is the limiting factor
wym??
The gpu will hit 100% usage before the cpu does
i use a 1440p btw
In most scenarios
1440p uses gpu more than cpu, so even moreso
That isn't a bad thing though
You kinda want the cpu to be more than the gpu needs, being cpu limited in games isn't a good experience
so i’ll be fine with what i currently have
Yes
Is this ram good or bad?
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I need more then 32gb and this seemed tempting as it says Hynix ICs.
That review that shows the die is for a different kit, with 2x16gb
Ahh shucks.
One person does indicate that it's DJR for the 2x32gb too, could be dual rank
Hard to tell for sure but you might get lucky
It's amongst the cheapest 3600cl16/18 kits so I guess it doesn't hurt to try.
One thing is for sure, you'll have more trouble running 64GB at high speed
Any clear way to tell if it's a good die when I get it?
2 sticks gets you the best chances but it can be a pain
Gotcha.
Run thaiphoon burner's report
It can give you a guess on the die
(emphasis on GUESS)
I am pretty sure I am board limited to 3933 so I am more focused on timings.
How hard is it to delid ram?
Will my hair dryer work?
How hard that part is depends on the thermal solution they used. Pads, easy. Glue, you'll have a bad time.
Yes
What about putting it back together?
Easier than disassembly
What do I need?
Can I reuse the pads on the ram?
If it has pads and they don't tear
A lot of cheaper manufacturers will use thermal glue instead and you're not re-bonding that
Is glue better then pads for heat transfer?
no
Bro finally updated his specs 💀
Bro doesn’t have a 5090ti 
Either 0.5mm or 1mm, it'll depend on your exact sticks
xD unfortunately so.
Waiting for Jensen to send me the prototype.
xD.
So get both just in case?
What about length?
You cut to fit
No but DDR5 doesn't get hot anyway so it doesn't matter
If it was a nvidia GPU with GDDR6X you'd want 12 minimum
What about DDR4?
same case
K.
I'm so used to talking about DDR5 now, whoops lol
Does DJR get very hot like Micron B-Die?
If you push 1.7v down the pipe it will
Gotcha.
But if you're not going over, say, 1.5v or so, it'll be fine
Doubt my board can handle speeds that require that many volts.
Especially with 64gb
Is 120mm long enough?
You'll be cutting little squares out of it to fit the memory ICs
It doesn't need to be too big
Oh, okay.
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Found this for cheap
And it claims 15W/MK.
Thermalright is good, that's what I used on my 3090
Overkill for system memory but hey
Overkill is always better then not imo.
If I had to, would it be a bad idea to stack 2 0.5mm thermal tape pieces together?
Yes, the air gap would insulate the heat
You don't really need to delid it
Thaiphoon gives a good enough guess to start overclocking and you can tell once you start overclocking if it's right based on behavior
Is there another way to check for the IC without guessing?
Not on that brand
Corsair has the version number but don't buy their DDR4, garbage PCB
Anyone else?
Patriot is fairly consistent
Is that the brand?
Yes
Oh just found them.
Even the ones that have serial numbers you can decode are still just guessing tbh
I've seen g.skill sticks claiming to be b-die that were actually c-die
Seriously?
You don't have to know the exact die to get started
If you have a general idea (hynix something for example) you can dial in some basic timings and tune manually from there
Could be anything with those specs
1.45v is required to be a safe ceiling according to DDR4 spec
So even if I don't delid so long as I stay within 1.45v on the Skywalker kit I should be fine?
In other words no, there's no dies that will degrade rapidly at 1.45v
So that kit will be fine even if it turns out to be a weird IC
Gotcha.
Think I will save myself a few bucks and do the Skywalker kit then.
Especially since it limits the possible ICs down to Hynix only.
Considering they're 32GB sticks that means that it'll have to be 16Gb ICs so that limits the possibilities
What's the most likely?
If it's Hynix it would be 16Gb AJR, MFR, or CJR
Is 16Gb CJR okay for oc?
It's a relatively new IC and my info is outdated, let me look
I gtg to sleep now. I appreciate the help and will be sure to read the info in the morning if you would be so kind as to ping me in it.
Info on 16Gb CJR is hard to find. It seems to be a rare die.
Ok, I am a smidge confused, I have a SATA m.2 SSD can I can't seem to get it detected by my new motherboard, I read the manual and I don't see anything about SATA here
Also, this is how I have it setup
The mobo might not support sata on the m.2 slot
From what I am reading, this seems to be the case. I was gonna try a bios update, but I don't think that will help what so ever
Yea if it's not supported physically there's no way to change it with software
Luckily this is an excuse to buy another nvme drive
(I just bought a 2TB nvme a week ago for schooling lmao)
Check tech deals, can get a 2tb pretty solid ssd for $45
Iirc its 45 anyways
Ah nvm it was taken down
P44 pro for $30 is really nice, 1tb though
It's among top 3 gen 4 ssds, though that doesn't really matter for gaming
Honestly all I need is 1 TB, I only bought a 2 TB so I can run windows and Linux with a respectable about of space for each.
Then either that p44 pro, or one sec I'll find some others
They are on tiktok shop though, with new user coupon
It's sold by newegg though
Oh p41 plus should still be $45 for 2tb if you'd like
P41 is what brand? I am not familiar with it
Otherwise m390 for the cheaper option, solid gen 3 drive, or p44 pro
It's a model name, p41 plus, by solidgim, which is a subdivision of hynix
It's a very nice ssd
P44 pro is by the same brand
M390 is MSI
Is this the one you are talking about? https://www.newegg.ca/solidigm-2tb-p41-plus/p/N82E16820329022?Item=N82E16820329022&Source=socialshare&cm_mmc=snc-social-_-sr-_-20-329-022-_-10112023
Yes, in the us on tiktok shop you can get it for $45 though, I don't know if you can get a similar price in Canada on tt shop
One sec, I'll find reccs for Canada not on tt shop
I mean, price isn't a big deal imo, as long as I don't get ripped off I am happy haha
I will probably go with the team group one, 89 dollars for 2 TB is fairly good as I will only be using the drive for games and school stuff
Theyre both similar in performance, so size is the main factor between the two of them
Next question, how do I now get the data off of that drive, my laptop can't see the drive either
I'm not sure if it'd work since it's an m.2 Sata drive, but an enclosure might work
I think an enclosure is the only way to go
Which desktop CPU brand is better for multi thread computing AMD or Intel
CAD $5000-$6000 for the whole build
yeah 13900k all the way
I figured as such what is difference between K and KS in 13900
as a general idea of what to expect https://ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/qv3HGP
13900ks is pointless if you're not very into overclocking
Very small gains and is only really meant for overclocking enthusiasts like Bacca said.
Roughly 5% boost in performance for a huge uplift in cost.
$2200 for a Zotac 4090?!
Canadian
And that's the cheapest 4090
Also it's not even 5%
Like 2% in most scenarios, not including ocing
Basically 0% if you don't pour liquid nitrogen on it
What IC do you guys think this could be?
DDR4 2x32 3600cl16-19-19-39 1.4v
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It's not Rev e or B die, I can say that much
Same thing there
Honestly kinda tempted dur tk how cheap it is.
For b die, look for flat timings
Like 16-16-16-36 or something like that
14-16-16-36
Pretty sure those are both b die bins
Thought B-Die doesn't work for 32GB sticks without special board?
5700G. My current ram isn't stable and 32GB hasn't been enough.
Then whatever cheapest 3600c16 kit you find, unless you're tuning it doesn't really matter much, and if you can't do b die or Rev e then it matters less
3600c18 would be more than fine too
Shoot just realized this is 32GB not 64GB.
I plan to tune.
Then if it's worth it to you you could look for 4x16 b die
Or Rev e, used potentially for either if you're fine with that
Apus can typically do higher speeds than non apus for amd
I've seen 5600g stable at 4400mhz gear 1
Unfortunately I am board or CPU limited to 3966 I think.
Lemme checkout used.
Yeah used isn't a good value option.
Everyone is charging a premium.
Why would you need 64gb?
Adobe.
My condolences
Would love CPU recommendations for a new build.. Currently using Asus Tufgaming z790, 64g DDR5 5600... Tried an I7 13700k and it about melted down. Was running almost 90C with 0 load while connected to an arctic freeze 2 240... TIA
Either aio is dead, mount was bad, or paste wasn't done well
Or the motherboard was feeding the cpu way too much power, which is what mine did to my 13600k
But that shouldn't be the case under no load
aye... reseated and repasted several times. Checked the AIO, could feel one line hot, the other cold. Terribly frustrated.
If you put your ear by the pump could you hear humming?
hmm, it was very quiet... I could hear the water churning when I started up the PC and could feel slight vibration.
Temp issues like that I highly doubt would be cpu related
Go into bios, make sure the aio is set to 100% if there's an aio pump options
When you put the aio on, did you screw one screw all the way in?
Or do an x pattern
Sorry, like on the cpu
I did... even undervolted the cpu and managed to get it to 78C
Not on the case
x pattern on the AIO
What case do you have?
Did you do it gradually, like going back and forth a few times? I normally do like 4 or 5 times on each before they're fully tightened
Even tried with just two screws (opposit corners) to see if that helped.
Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case
Corsair 4000D Airflow ATX Mid Tower Case
Like top right, bottom left, bottom right, top left and then do that 4-5 times
And what thermal paste and how much are you using?
I'd say it's a mounting issue then
When you've remounted it have you redone the paste each time?
pea sized glob in the middle, ARCTIC MX-6
Your temp shouldn't be that high when the load is practically 0, can't be the cpus fault because then it'd be pulling like 200w+ which wouldn't be the problem
yes, cleaned all past off with alcohol and paper towels, and repasted between seatings
You're doing everything right, so this is really odd
Oh that's not actually needed but oh well
Just to confirm you did do this, and not just one at a time?
yes
Something is going wrong with the mounting then
well, thinking about it... I tightened one screw at a time, but in the x pattern
Do it gradually
Ah that's your problem
didn't tighten it down super tight until all were snug
Like turn each one rotation at a time, that's excessive but easiest way to make sure it's good
You gotta go a bit of one, move to opposite, etc
1 turn at a time would take ages but I'd say 5 a time should be fine
Or at least like 3
If you wanna be safe
wondering if an i7-12700K would run a bit cooler
If you're going to change cpu, go to 13600k and just grab a dual tower
Also, are you just gaming?
Or doing multi core tasks
Mostly 3d graphics and video editing
Zbrush, Maya, Photoshop, Premiere. etc..
with gaming on the side
Ah, so multi core tasks
You'd definitely want to either get this 13700k figured out or go down to a 13600k
Multi core from 12700k to 13600k diff is pretty significant
is the 13600k the I5? I haven't had to build a workstation in over 10 years.
so I'm behind the curve on what's available... using PCPartpicker to determine compatability
Yeah i5-13600k
So biggest piece of advice I want to give you, throw out all the i9, i5, i7 stuff
Yeah
It's basically irrelevant now
good to know
13600k matches the 12th gen i9 in multi core and beats it in single core
A 13600k has more cores, power and performance across the board versus any older i9 except a 12900k
Pretty much yeah
So it's pointless to focus on the labels cos one's a 16 core processor, the other is like 14 cores
aye... I just worry about over heating now... It has been a frustrating build. Started off with the wrong ram being shipped.
Yeah thats annoying
Packaging up the AIO and going to return it most likely and get the larger one that still fits in the case
been over a week now trying to get this new machine built and running.
Oh I have a few suggestions for aio, if that's fine
please, all ears.
4000d airflow fits 360mm, right?
Yeah do you have a pcpartpicker.com list?
Lol
No send us your actual build
💀
yes, GPU returned
Hm
Also do you want rgb or no
Well whoever helped you with this, they picked at least the most vram heavy option at the low end
Which isn't bad for workstation
Dang...
Not familiar enough to understand teh RGB
The mobo could swap
Ssd swap
Ram swap
Gpu I would go like, used 3080 or 7800xt
Psu swap
They're all like, okay? Options
But you could do way better
most likely
Get far better bang for your buck
but PC building not being my forte, seems like it is working well enough except for the CPU
So I made some changes, but I understand not wanting to return all of this. The mobo I'd change too but I just left that. Can't believe I'm actuallt suggesting a 4060 ti, but 16gb vram and it's very nice for productivity https://pcpartpicker.com/list/7PJRKX
The psu is good, this one is just similar quality for less
Ssd is just as good for $10 less, so whatever either is fine
Ram is a good bit better for same price
Felix, no, just Maya
That's a good point ^
and Zbrush
Oh maya I think is definitely rdna3
7800xt would be a better idea then
Lemme double check
Substance painter
Also, you could drop cpu to 13600k and go for a $35 air cooler if you would prefer that
But it would get pretty toasty under multi core loads
That would look like https://pcpartpicker.com/list/tBq7RK
aye... ironically that was the original ram I ordered, but they sent me the wrong order. so I just got what I could
Ahh rip
Is substance painter something else or is it just Zbrush
It's looking like an intel, rdna3/nvidia build
Oh wait did you already get that headset btw?
Either or
Yeah..
everything already arrived
but I haven't opened up the headset box
everything is assembled... just the issue with the CPU overheating got me
Mobo options if you end up switching that too, but again the one in there is fine just expensive
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/Xpnypg/asus-tuf-gaming-z690-plus-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-tuf-gaming-z690-plus-wifi
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/pTbTwP/asrock-b760m-pro-rs-micro-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b760m-pro-rs
https://pcpartpicker.com/product/TxcgXL/msi-b760-gaming-plus-wifi-atx-lga1700-motherboard-b760-gaming-plus-wifi
It's alright just razer headsets tend not to be the best for their prices
So again, it's up to you if you want to keep it or not, as with pretty much everything else in the list
Theyre good products, just not the best price/perf for the most part
aye, yeah... all I had to go on for a lot was reading comparative reviews.
Yeah unfortunately those tend to be very brand based and not performance based
Like Samsung ssds, the 990 pro is good but 99% of people won't see a difference between it and a $90 s70 blade
aye
4000d airflow is a decent case, but there's other very nice options around the price
Like g360a, literally any fractal design case with a mesh front, etc
Evga makes some good psus, GT is decent but you can get a better quality psu for $100, or same quality psu for $80
You get the point
yeah
wish I had thought of looking up this Discord before
Yeah, couldn't do worse than the pre built I bought before coming here lol
I knew absolutely f all about pcs when I bought it Dec 2020
all my PC"s have been payment for work
and the last one is almost 10 years old
Still works, but well, it's starting to show its age
and of course the fan going out on it sounds like a weed whacker
Yeah understandably
My first pc before that pre built was a gt 1030 and 3rd gen i5
Went from that to a 3600 and 3060 ti
Was like night and day, as I'm sure this upgrade will be for you lol
i'm still rocking a gtx 960
So for gpu, you're looking at a 400% increase or so
Cpu is about a 650% increase
Could you send a picture of the aio mounted on the cpu, if it's still on?
One from face on one from the sideish?
already removed
Ah alr
Also if you go for a 360mm aio, there's either the black one in the list I sent or you can go for rgb, with the frozen notte
It's like $6 more
4000d airflow fits up to 360mm
It either fits 280mm front and 360 top, or vice versa
I forget
@burnt spear
@dull flint does this look right?
after that picture I had to remove the radiator to plug it into the aio header...
so this was early on
Ah
thinking it might fit the freeze II 280
two fans but slightly larger
I'd have to fit the 360 radiator down the front of the case if it would fit
Yeah front mount is fine
Pcpartpicker checks for compatibility
It wouldn't let a 360mm be added if the 4000d airflow doesn't fit it
Very nice aio
Thermalright also has a good 280mm aio but it's white
It also has an lcd display over the cpu, if you care for that
hmm
Ek makes some of the best aios out there
Theyre up there with arctic
Thermalright aios aren't quite as good, but they're good quality and perform within a few degrees of top end aios that normally cost twice as much
Notte 360 I believe beats arctic 280
So... current plan of action... try the i5-13600K, return the arctic freeze II 240, and get a bigger AIO?
It fits up top but I believe not with ram
Sorry guys I'm also working on my own pc rn 💀
I'll be in and out of chat
no worries. appreciate the input
It's def not the size of the aio that's the issue, that specific one might just be faulty
Though a 240mm lf2 is silly, since you can get 240mm aio perf from a $35 air cooler
And there's much cheaper decent 240mm aios as low as $47
Frozen prism and frozen notte
👍
Factorio comparison lol
Yeah that seems about right
It's a lot more cache heavy and the cache hasn't changed
apparently the metric for factorio is supposed to be updates per second
Well that's interesting, my 5900X has degraded just from PBO
TSMC 7nm can't handle 80W gaming?

Might be time to sell it
Mine also degraded from it
Can’t run stock anymore
Wtf is happening
Is amd having a widespread issue with failure right now or has it been going on? This seems like a major issue to not have been talked about more
I had to drop my boost clock to 4.3GHz to be stable at stock voltages
13th gen dies from enough prime95 runs
Welcome to the current gen ig

At stock? Never seen that before
According to a source yelling at another source while I ate the proverbial popcorn, yes it's true

CPU peeps trying to pull GPU strat, pushing component to its limits, but worse and more dangerously
Time to test myself
Which means Intel 14th gen will be even worse with the 6GHz stock freq
I have a msi mpg b550 gaming plus and ryzen 9 cpu, but i try to boot and it just shows a solid white light next to cpu, no pins are bent on the cpu so idk the problem
Updated bios? You can use the flash button so you don't even need it to boot
My motherboard has flash button, how do I use it
What model
Generally the steps are:
Download and extract bios
Copy bios to FAT32 USB drive
Rename bios file
Plug drive into designated flash port
Press and hold flash button until the light starts flashing, then wait about 5 minutes for it to stop
Specific steps will vary by brand, and sometimes by model
B550m aorus elite
wifi or no
No
rev 1.0, 1.1, 1.2, or 1.3
Idk 💀
I’ll check when I go home
It's small
Yes, and a flash drive formatted as FAT32
If it's a USB storage drive then it should work
You can tell the format by plugging it in to a PC and right clicking the drive, and hitting properties
Ok I’ll check
Is it worth flashing? Before building?
I have windows and bios update downloaded onto the same drive
That's fine
Will that effect anything
I have it plugged in
I’m in properties
It’s FAT32
Perfect
I have all these files in here
Keep the GIGABYTE.bin file on the root of the drive, not inside any folders
Nothing on the bottom left? Probably v1 then
Missing from where
Yeah it's supposed to be like that
Imma build the pc on Tuesday should I start building rn?
Up to you
It's pretty quick to plug in the 24 pin from the power supply and flash if you want to do that now
Is it fine if it sits on the desk until Tuesday cuz I cannot wait lol
Yeah I’ll do that rn
Yes it'll be fine
I don’t have like a dedicated thing to put it on
How do I put it
I’ll build rn
The cardboard box it came in is fine to set it on temporarily
Also dumb question how do I remove the file from the folder
Until Tuesday or Wednesday
Depends on when my case shows up
Right click
Copy paste
Ok what do I rename it as
Don't set it on the anti static bag, just on the bare cardboard btw
It’s a F18C file
Yeah I put it on there
GIGABYTE.bin
Remove the file extension and rename it to bin?
Yes
You'll need the 24 pin and the 8 pin EPS power plugged in for your board it looks like, in order to flash
Lemme show you
Looks right
That's why modular is so nice
That looks like the 6+2
There’s all 6
The CPU one won't have a daisy chain connector
All of them have other cable attached to it 😭😭
I have apevia prestige
Is that the semi modular one
Non modular 600w
That looks right
Does it split in half to make a 4+4 cable
Pick an end
Is it fine?
Technically the one closer to the power supply is preferred but it shouldn't matter for this
It seems like the right one to me, they just ignored best practice and put 2 connectors
The 8 pin can carry up to about 350W so having both plugged in would mean a max of 700W over one cable, which is obviously less than ideal. That's what I mean about best practice if you were wondering.
Yep
Yep
When you hold the flash button, a light will start flashing
When it stops it's done
Where is the button?
By the SATA ports
Yep
Does the drive have a light
Light is on, means it's reading
I turned it off by mistake
Just flash it again
Yes
It can take a few seconds to start but it should take 1-5 minutes to flash
Oh ok
When the light starts flashing it means it's trying to read
How quick
Yes
I’m turning it on
The drive is flashing
But I haven’t touched the button
It’s still going on
Let it go I guess
Aight
Or should I play it safe and put in all the stuff and flash it then?
I have all the stuff except the case
It won't make a difference
Aight I’ll prob wait another 10 more minutes and turn off the psu
The drive is still flashing and I haven’t touched the button
@grizzled bloom
I’ll be turning it off now
Imma build the pc and boot
And after that I’ll update bios in the menu
That fine?
Do I change the name or anything or is it fine if I leave it like that?
That would be fine. And if that doesn't work:
Switch it off, unplug the drive, switch it on, put the drive back in, and then hit the flash button
It's fine to leave the file as is
Alright
You can point the flash menu to a file and it'll check the internal data before flashing
Oh and you probably don't need to bother applying thermal paste for this since you'll be taking the cooler off to install into the case anyway
Do I remove the sticker for the ssd
No because I’m using stock cooler
Why am I taking the cooler off when I’m putting in the case?
@grizzled bloom
No that's more than a sticker, that's a heat spreader. Metal infused sticker.
I remove the backplate right?
Because it'll probably get in the way of other things like the CPU power
No the stock cooler screws into the stock backplate
Just remove the screws right?
Yep
I don’t have to remove the things then?
The backplate is glued in place so don't worry about it falling
The black clip attachment points will be removed and you'll screw the cooler in where the screws were before
Look
Should I remove the screws on the cooler, place the cooler and put the screws back on?
It's spring tension, press hard and turn
little by little in a cross pattern
it looks like spring tension
cuz Intel stock cooler
wait it's amd
Same concept as GPU coolers use, makes it more evenly apply pressure
Yep wraith cooler
i was a bit blind
Are they in?
Put in the gpu now?
I got the ram, ssd, cooler and cpu in
How do I put the gpu in
Which whole
Ok
Should I remove this silver thing?
It’s getting in the way
I can prob put it back on when I get the case
Dude it feel on the ground
It’s not fitting on the box
It mounts onto the case, which you will need to remove the pcie bracket covers to the amount of slots it takes
But it’s not fitting on the box
without it you can't mount the gpu lol
How do I remove the gpu it’s stuck
Plastic clip on the PCIe slot
I got it
Plugging in the cables now
I have question
Should I plug both of them in
Or just one cable both ends?
@grizzled bloom @cursive epoch
Use two separate cables
Ok
Not two ends of the same one
If its 3 pin two would be fine, but no reason not to do two if you have them
Wdym turn on the mobo?
I don’t have case
Just power button, once everything is in and all that
I don’t have a case
Take a screwdriver and touch the power button pins
It don’t work
Doesn’t work
Psu power button on, ram all the way in, double checked connections?
I think so
Oh does this vary per board?
Could've sworn mine was far left but I could be wrong
Try the highlighted two, if you didn't already
IT'S LAIVE
W fal
IT'S ALIVE
BUT IT DOESNT POST
Ah
^
Do you mean like turned off?
Or is just sitting with monitor on but nothing displaying
Do I turn the monitor on?
It’s a old ass monitor
Make sure it's on the right input
That typically refers to the vga port
HDMI is the one you probably want
Should go to bios
Update bios, install windows
Once windows is installed go back to bios and enable xmp
what gpu does he have
Press Y
It probably started looking for a boot drive
Aorus logo popped up
IWNCOWS LOADED
BUT NO bios
Is that a bad thing?
Do I continue with windows install?