#Imported Bugeye with more Rust than a Miata
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
If the cluster is in mph, swapping it to a sensible one is easy enough
I have to ask the TÜV guy but maybe its enough if i mark the 30, 50, 80, 100 and 130 kph ones (need to save as much money for now as possible)
The speedo should have metric markings as well
Yeah I've never seen a Subaru mph cluster without the km/h markings included
Perfect
i mean it might be Kph anyway bc its originally from japan
Possibly, though it's also possible it's been reprogrammed to show mph
Also possible that instead there's a speedo correction module there but you can just remove that if that's the case
Wait reprogrammed? isnt the cars speedo fully analouge?
On Subarus? Hasn't been since 1995
Oh damn didnt know that
Sorry, 1996
ngl i forgot to check the inside when i bought it
If it's a shithole, rip it all out and make it a racecar
It's half a shithole
And no, the plan is for this to become my every day driver for a while and it needs to work bc my current car is falling apart and needs some work done that i do NOT want to do
Why not both. I daily my race car
Wait 'll try to explain
Oh no I get it
Lol
Also german tüv
And a STREET LEGAL racecar?
Also i often drive 850km in a single day so i want a car thats sporty but also comfortable
A racecar will make the journey fast
With those distances you should get into endurance tho
Before i found this subie on marketplace i thought about building a long range car (diesel ofc) but then again: i'm moving soon and wont have to drive as far to work as i am now so a diesel would be the wrong thing
Also wanted sth i can drive up the mountains in the winter and flex on the FWD guys😼 (just wanna look cool)
Update: i finally brought the car home. Rust isnt as bad as i thought but a bit more widespread
E-Braie light is constantly on even if it's not engaged. Apart from that pretty much what i said before
That light doubles as a brake fluid level light
Ohhhh then it might be because of the broken bleeder screw in the rear
It can also just be low or the sensor float might be stuck. If your pedal isn't going to the floor it isn't the bleeder
ik the bleeder screw in the rear left is ripped out so i need to replace it anyway