What's your insta?
Or is that illegal to share here
#Outback STKHOUZ
quaint flower
sour quail
quaint flower
Hell yea I'm following now
fierce quail
Are they known for that happening? Or did something else cause it
zinc kraken
Are they known for that happening? Or did something else cause it
They are known for that happening, and there's a solid two apologists who are extremely vocal about it
quaint flower
They are known for that happening, and there's a solid two apologists who are ex...
When are you going to Iceland with your car?
zinc kraken
When are you going to Iceland with your car?
lmao never
I drove a Jimny when I went to Iceland. 2 door 5 speed manual 4x4, cargo model
Soooo uncomfortable
zinc kraken
okay so replaced the CV axles with some Cardone spares yesterday and then went on a roadtrip today including a short offroad section. everything works fine again
narrow shadow
:0 reservoir in the engine bay
zinc kraken
It gets warm sometimes
gotta go fast
Another Gambler, another successful trip without any major issues
OG Gambler 500 dude decided to hold a Gambler down south. They wanted to do Primm NV but insurance requirements were unobtainable so his buddy said to throw it at his compound near Johnson Valley
So they called it King of the Gamblers, aka The Hambler 500
Which is convenient because it's 20 minutes from my parents. As a group we filled four shipping container sized trash bins full of trash and recovered 19 abandoned vehicles
tacit oar
Holy shit thats a lot of trash
zinc kraken
Yep. Last night some guys rolled up to the dumpster before we did so we helped unload their rigs
One dude had a whole ass giant square jacuzzi
We got it into the opening of the dumpster upside down on top of the trash pile but needed to move it further in so nobody dies, so we looped a strap around the edge and I climbed on top of the mountain of trash and hooked up a winch cable tossed over from the opposite side
Worked great
They also helped unload my rig, which had a shot up smoker and woodburning stove on the roof basket
And the B Team van which I hung out with all day picking up trash. Me and the driver got a shot up refrigerator onto the roof of his lifted Astrovan by ourselves
And it had more room so he loaded a bunch of tires and other trash/panels
narrow shadow
It gets warm sometimes
i was gonna ask
narrow shadow
Which is convenient because it's 20 minutes from my parents. As a group we fille...
oh my god
narrow shadow
They also helped unload my rig, which had a shot up smoker and woodburning stove...
a shot up smoker?
also astro vans are sweet
zinc kraken
a shot up smoker?
Yeah, people are stupid. But my guess is it was old and rusty when they decided to use it for target practice
zinc kraken
narrow shadow
Dang that looks really fun
wish there was stuff like that around east coast
could take the OBS or the sidekick
zinc kraken
Apparently there were a bunch of other famous people there
idk I just like cars and pick up trash
I met Justin and Zach from Donut. They were there for fun, no film crews
Ken Blocks son Mika was there, and a bunch of other cool dudes
narrow shadow
dont have insta :(
guess I've gotta go to the west coast to have fun
question is do i do an overland build on the subaru or the suzuki
zinc kraken
What suzuki
narrow shadow
97 sidekick sport 4dr
narrow shadow
needs new lockers
zinc kraken
Subaru @narrow shadow
narrow shadow
subaru
zinc kraken
Found out who the event venue host was and why his place was so nice. It's the home of the guy who started King of the Hammers
narrow shadow
Oh wow lol
that's wild
there's really nothing cool off-roading wise over here
should be more set for offroading with my tire setup now though lol. skidplate is a must tho
zinc kraken
Apparently I also met Fred Williams from Dirt Every Day
He let me lay pipe in the rear
of his Bronco pickup 😏
sour quail
you're famous now
zinc kraken
Oh yeah and Subaru USA posted one of my pics of my car on their Instagram account 😎
tacit oar
Yea and fb lol
zinc kraken
completely revamped my power station setup
Built out a 100Ah LiFePO4 battery with accessories, connectors, etc. and changed the 1200w inverter to be run off the new battery instead of the alternator. The new battery is charged by a 40A DC-DC charge controller with MPPT solar inputs as well
It can also be slow charged at 1A 120V
narrow shadow
why is the video like 15 fps
zinc kraken
low light and chinesium phone
zinc kraken
UPDATE: the awning brackets worked fine and there's no bending or any issues whatsoever after a couple months and two Gamblers
zinc kraken
today i ordered catalytic converters for my car. they're NLA/discontinued and none of the dealers near me have any, so i'm having some shipped from NY which should be the cheapest if the shipping estimate is accurate
there goes ~$2600 but now i don't have to worry about trying to find good catalytic converters that California won't screw me over for having
zinc kraken
Earlier, I removed the basket and awning and aero bars. Going to be doing long trips and would rather have the MPG
When it warms up and some Gamblers are gonna happen, I'll throw the basket and awning back on
Oh I forgot to mention. A month or so ago I installed some metal cargo rings inside the car where the rear seat mounting bolts used to go. It fixed most of my issues when trying to strap down the fridge, Rinsekit Pro, and kitchen box (among other things). I really like how modular the car is now. The load-out changes weekly based on my plans and I never have too little room inside
ALSO
I got a couple keys cut that had been sitting for a bit. A newer AIO key, and a chinesium flip key. Both programmed successfully, but the AIO key was bulkier and the Unlock function was mapped to the Trunk Release button, so that kinda sucks. The flip key so far is awesome and I attached my DIY EZ30D headgasket keychain to it using a small loop of paracord I fused together, so it doesn't rattle/jingle.
zinc kraken
yesterday i did a costco run, reset the car interior and mostly finished prepping it for a big roadtrip in the next few days. did an oil change and general inspection, relocated one of the rear central air inflation valves to a more accessible location, and noted the newer ASA 3D printed coilover reservoir brackets didn't hold up well at all compared to the PETG ones. so i redesigned it to have slightly thicker walls where it broke, and am 3D printing them with some different settings for better strength and using PETG since it seems to be less brittle than ASA and more resilient to vibration/bending
it's about 2x the thickness where the mounting bolt applies clamping force, and 1.5x as thick for the walls in that area
the breakage would occur at the corners between the walls and the mounting face
limpid grotto
I got a couple keys cut that had been sitting for a bit. A newer AIO key, and a ...
i just ordered the EZ30D headgasket keychaintoday lol
zinc kraken
Good luck.
zinc kraken
Oh.
Just saw the edit
Wait someone is selling EZ30D headgasket keychains? @limpid grotto
I drew that thing up in Illustrator and turned it into a model and printed it myself
I didn't see anyone selling them
zinc kraken
Raced over to the Bonneville Salt Flats and made it minutes after sunset, only to find it full of puddles of standing water that I didn't want to drive through because it's salt water and also very illegal
Then the next day, raced across The Pony Express trail over to the Dugway Geode Beds and back after mining a bucket full of geodes and fragments
I hate this trail:
Also @quaint flower don't side load the Schrader valves
zinc kraken
Used my Rinsekit Pro to wash off a bunch of geode fragments, and found some good ones that would have just been discarded because they didn't look like much when filled with mud/sand
narrow shadow
that's super dope
my great uncle was a geologist in norway
rock man we called him
(we did not call him that)
zinc kraken
He would probably be horrified if he saw how I was digging them out
4lb sledge, pry bars with strike caps, and a curved mechanics hand pick
The spot I was digging in was a sideways tunnel with a massive overhang that went over my entire body
limpid grotto
Wait someone is selling EZ30D headgasket keychains? <@313751931082244096>
Yeah lol https://disagree.de/en/products/miniatur-einer-kopfdichtung-fur-subaru-ez30?variant=45188943773963
zinc kraken
Yeah lol https://disagree.de/en/products/miniatur-einer-kopfdichtung-fur-subaru-...
neat, but also $23.22 more than i wanted to spend
limpid grotto
understandable
zinc kraken
so i needed to get warranty parts again for my OVS 4 tire hard mounted inflation system
i went to connect a push fit air chuck jumper hose to the schrader valve in the wheel well and the mf schrader valve threads snapped and let the valve come out
contacted OVS support, they're sending me two replacement schrader valves under warranty even though i only broke one
OVS customer support is some of the best i've ever had tbh
@quaint flower , update on the 4 tire inflation kit
quaint flower
Ah amazing
zinc kraken
i'm also placing a pre-order for an extra quick release chuck for the jumper hoses, in case one goes bad in the field and i want to replace it easily
quaint flower
I have not been able to work on the forester Bcs my garage bays are full rn and I'm not working outside at -1 C
zinc kraken
understandable
quaint flower
I have 2 imprezas inside and an citroen c1
One of my imprezas is getting all the cool rally parts installed I ordered for it
The other is my old track car that doesn't move
The c1 is a cliënts car and wil lbe done after the weekend so maybe then I'll start on the install
zinc kraken
my best advice is keep the schrader valve mounting material as thin and rigid as possible, and put them somewhere where you will have A LOT of clearance to install and remove the quick-connect without any side loading
zinc kraken
i had some clunking noises after doing the Pony Express trail to the Dugway Geode Beds and back. i got home and finally took a look, and i'm pretty sure it was just a very loose coilover lock ring
the Pony Express nowadays, is ~50 miles of mostly extremely hard packed dirt/gravel washboard and washouts, each way to the dugway geode beds
quaint flower
my best advice is keep the schrader valve mounting material as thin and rigid as...
Like where do you recommend on a forester?
zinc kraken
i'm not familiar enough with foresters. on my BH i found a few places in the sheet metal that had holes and were out of the way of the tires
quaint flower
In front or behind the wheel?
zinc kraken
in the fronts on mine, i was able to shove them through a hole in the subframe in front of the tire. in the rear i found a place behind the tire on one side, and behind and above on the other side
zinc kraken
replacement valve arrived. just one though. guess they decided against sending two at some point in the process
did some work to the car lubing the spherical bearings, replaced the loose spring bolts that were allowing the exhaust to rattle with some regular bolts that clamped it tight, and tightened the front coilover lock ring even more (the one that got loose in utah). also made some changes to the schrader valve mounts to remove unnecessary washers and allow more of the valve to protrude from the mounting surface (to make it easier to clip on the jumper hoses)
something in the rear passenger side is still squeaking, i suspect it's the coilover shaft (maybe it needs lube?) or the polyurethane trailing arm bushing needs grease
on my trip to Utah for New Years, i had to stop at a Costco once i got to the outskirts of the SLC region and get the tires rebalanced. i had just made it in time to be the last customer of the day at the tire center. on the way to Utah i had noticed a vibration getting worse and worse from the front end which got worse with speed, but changing the throttle position didn't affect it (it was MPH based not load-based) so i made an educated guess that maybe some of the ancient stick-on wheel weights had fallen off, and/or the tires were worn enough to justify rebalancing (they definitely were)
the speed limits out there on the interstates are 80 MPH / 128 KMH
so the vibration was very noticeable close to and at the speed limit
zinc kraken
JFC
i placed an order for an OEM set of cats for my car back in mid-early december, haven't seen or heard anything since the order confirmation email
checked for a status update online on the order, no status whatsoever. called the dealer. they said one of the cats is NLA and OOS. but their website and others said it was in stock
so i said ok fine remove that one from the order and send the rest of the order
but now i had to locate the other, more expensive cat from another dealer
i called another dealer who showed online that it was in stock, it wasn't. same story
NLA/OOS
so i asked if they could do an inventory check for other dealers
"nothing within 1000 miles" (this included all the other dealers that showed it was available online)
so i asked "can you expand that to more than 1000 miles"
they said "it's showing one in idaho"
so i get that dealers info and i called them. they confirmed it is in stock and that theoretically they could ship it.... waiting on a quote now
JFC
~$2100 USD shipped for that one cat
however.... if they have it.... it's THE VERY LAST NEW OEM BH H6 CAT IN THE ENTIRE USA
quaint flower
however.... if they have it.... it's THE VERY LAST NEW OEM BH H6 CAT IN THE ENTI...
Lol
zinc kraken
they did indeed have it
i went ahead and bought it. it's literally the last one in the entire USA
tacit oar
i called another dealer who showed online that it was in stock, it wasn't. same ...
The online website subaru uses for parts globally appears broken atm. All prices usd all parts in stock
zinc kraken
The online website subaru uses for parts globally appears broken atm. All prices...
there's a lot of parts for my car that were showing OOS/NLA over the past few years when i was researching
tacit oar
Yeah its a last month or so thing
People complaining part is 300 when its 170 on the online store
zinc kraken
i also ordered some probably shitty aftermarket "OEM fitment" cats from eBay in Canada, shipping to my buddy in Arizona, because California doesn't want aftermarket cats to be allowed in their state even if they pass the sniff tests without the manufactuer spending a shit ton of money to the state for the whole certification process
figure i will just use those until it's time to get the emissions checks once every 2 years. then it's unbolt the old ones and bolt on the OEM ones
the aftermarket ones i should be able to have an exhaust shop modify, or DIY if i actually start using my welder, to tuck it up closer to the body
plus i won't feel terrible if they get smashed while offroading
zinc kraken
hunting down a squeak in the rear passenger side suspension, most likely one of the two poly bushings, or the spherical bearing for the top strut mount since that's the only one i haven't been able to spray some PTFE lube on
zinc kraken
greased most of the poly bushings, squeak is still there. ugh. only thing left to do is drop the main huge cast iron trailing arm and re-grease every part of it thoroughly and hope that fixes it. it's a huge pain to drop/reinstall it as it requires ratchet straps going sideways to another vehicle and the front underside of my car, along with a floor jack to raise the arm
i think i'll keep looking for other possible sources of the squeak/quiet other things that are loose
could be something loose inside the trunk, or a loose brake line bracket
zinc kraken
greased the last poly bushings before the last offroad outing, squeak is pretty much gone as far as i care
car did alright, it's not amazing but nothing broke. got some videos/pics i need to process
i re-did the hold-down for my fluid bin using another one of these https://niteize.com/camjamr-cord-tightener
i also use them to hold down my fridge and rinsekit
the rope is easily separated from the clip mechanism so it can be threaded through small loops in objects, and it stays tight over time once tensioned
i also adjusted the spare tire hold down Y shaped ratchet strap setup i got from pnwautocar's wrecked BP to hold the tire better (and not interfere with the lightweight folding bed/table) by moving one of the hooks to a relatively new metal cargo tiedown loop i installed in late december
zinc kraken
another offroad trip without anything major breaking. visited Hammertown at King of the Hammers with a few IG-famous Subaru people i know - did some offroading through whoops on the way there and on the way back to avoid some of the traffic, then hit up Cleghorn OHV trail a couple days later. here's part of a highlight reel @subuggy_xv made featuring my car
did get stuck going up one obstacle due to lack of power to the rear wheels, open front diff, and bad departure angle. i think if i carried more momentum it would have worked, but that increased the risk for damaging something in the front end and i didn't want to risk it
the spot in question:
that was the second attempt ^
this was the result of the first attempt
different line choice with more momentum would have worked if i wanted to give it another go. but further up there's a risk of smashing the drivers side of the vehicle
limpid grotto
gonna sound stupid, but do you have spacers on top of your coilovers?
https://flatoutsuspension.net/0004outback-grlite/
would my 2" spacers on these struts be too much? would that call for more heavy duty cv's?
zinc kraken
gonna sound stupid, but do you have spacers on top of your coilovers?
I do not. I tried that but it didn't do much and just complicated things
Since I already have coilovers designed for +4"
For 4" you would need at minimum 2" subframe spacers and everything that goes with that. Trans/driveshaft spacers, LCA spacers, trailing arm spacers, steering knuckle extension, extended pitch stop, extended rad hoses, shave the rad fan motor supports, relocate the engine grounds and other things in the engine bay
And reroute the exhaust at the rear subframe
It's a lot of money and BS for that extra 2" of height which is why most people don't do it
If you want to get an idea how the GR Lites are, hit up praseodymiumtwins or whatever her IG name is. She has a black Baja and it's on the GR Lites
She's pretty happy with them. Early customers of GR Lites absolutely destroyed theirs but hers are newer I think and holding up for the softroading she does
Hope that helps @limpid grotto
limpid grotto
do you have any undercarriage shots? really curious now. did you do all that without like instruction and just kind of winged it?
zinc kraken
i started with a kit from SubieLiftOz and winged it because the instructions were wrong/missing info and not all of the pieces were included
i updated the guide (because Matt sent me a .docx instead of a .pdf) and sent it back to them
zinc kraken
do you have any undercarriage shots? really curious now. did you do all that wit...
not really, what do you want to see
it's just a bunch of solid aluminum blocks or fabricated steel spacers between things that mount to the unibody, and the unibody
zinc kraken
Swapped rear diff cross brace yesterday on the Subaru. Old one was a bit fucked. Guess I hit a large rock a little too hard. Oopsie, I'm an Asparagus
New one is from a 15-19 Legacy and cast aluminum with different style bushings
pseudo depot
This is something I've always wanted to do mostly to prove a family friend wrong but also so I can go off road
zinc kraken
just got back from a Mojave Road trip. was scouting/navigating for 9 vehicles behind me. normal speeds of 25-45 MPH and lots of waiting for people to catch up. nothing catastrophic broke on my car, but i suspect something did break in the suspension on the left side since when there's hard hits there's a metallic pop noise from somewhere (left rear?) but need to crawl underneath and test, then empty the car to see if it's just something clunking in the interior. the group camping trip was for a friends 40th bday and i was the most familiar with the trail, so i was navigator for the group. the rest of the group was full size trucks and body on frame SUVs. a lot of the guys liked the subaru and were impressed by what it could do
this was my 4th trip across the mojave road, 3rd with this car
one of the dudes was running an f250 with non-reservoir and what looked like 30-40mm shocks. i started checking shock temps on some of the vehicles midway through day 1 and checked all vehicles day 2. the f250 fronts were COOKING. on the second day after a run down some washboard, they were up to 300-350 fahrenheit when i stopped to let the group catch up and cool down the suspension
the FLIR cam in my phone helped a lot in that regard. unfortunately a Suburban in the group melted/blew out a front Bilstein 5100 or similar on the second day but it wasn't the end of the world
temps on my coilovers were fine. they got a little warm (200 or so) but well within operating range
zinc kraken
f250 guy sent us a pic a week later of a completely melted dust boot and color-changed shaft and some reservoir kings going in
zinc kraken
Bought a rare JDM Lancaster chrome hatch grab bar from Aleksandr Babenko. Part finally arrived a couple weeks ago but didn't have time until now to install it. Hides the dents in the rear hatch perfectly 😂
Also started installing an easier/sturdier hatch release pull handle. More on that Soon™️
zinc kraken
hatch release pull handle video. show's how it works. The previous setup was a length of paracord which had to be pulled straight down, but that setup was extremely difficult to actuate when the extruded aluminum sleeping platform is installed. This new setup is actuated by pulling upwards on a knob - super easy. Trimmed the cable, lubed the interior of the cable, modified a spare L bracket and wedged it in place between the rear wiper motor and its mounting bracket, mounted the pull cable sheath, and trimmed the rear hatch plastic panel to make room for the new pull handle. New setup works great.
and a montage for the JDM chrome rear hatch grab bar
tacit oar
Lmfao
grim citrus
Oh you'll despise that song very soon
zinc kraken
Easy enough to change it, just have to bring my laptop and a USB cable
grim citrus
Exactly the type of utterly useless project I like
zinc kraken
I do wish it was louder. I bet I could attach a different speaker and an amplifier if I wanted to
zinc kraken
Raised the charging voltage of the alternator to 14.8-14.9 under load using a Voltage Booster Pro
Should help the AGM battery stay properly charged now
narrow shadow
i think it being for 4runners makes the car better for offroading intrinsically
zinc kraken
Subiefest prep ^ installed some solar panels to trickle charge the main battery and the LiFePO4 power station battery, upgraded a Makita 18v jump starter with 10AWG wiring and an SB50 connector so I don't even have to pop the hood, installed cargo loops on the mounting bracket for the rear overhead grab handles, installed new (slightly smaller) tires, met up with some friends and prepped my car for Subiefest - full interior cleaning, wheels off detail above and below
Subiefest was cooler (literally) than last year. However, the car started misfiring after washing it and it never went away, so the brand new coilover brackets I printed out of PETG melted while stuck in stop and go traffic trying to get into the show. Other than that, the car was fine and presentable enough for the show. Got to meet up with friends (new and old) and enjoy the scene for a bit. Sat front and center for the awards show, buddies name got called for winning first in his category but they never called my name as a runner up for my category, just went straight from another category to winner of my category... So I thought I didn't win anything. Next day, my buddy who was sitting next to me in front row of the stage sends me a screenshot of the winners page and apparently my car was best runner up, and they should have called my name. I emailed the event coordinators to see if I can get the award that all the runner ups got. Today I replaced the melted brackets, diagnosed and repaired the misfire issue, then helped my other buddy with his BH suspension work (bushing and arm swaps, had to use my press and a torch and a grinder due to rusty/seized hardware).
fierce quail
“But then harry showed up”
zinc kraken
“But then harry showed up”
😂
grim citrus
This car is H6? Didn't know that. CF hoods an allat that thing is looking good. I'd try ABS for the mounts if your printer is up for it
Or ASA
sour quail
yeh, H6 supremacy
zinc kraken
This car is H6? Didn't know that. CF hoods an allat that thing is looking good. ...
I did ASA before and it was too brittle
Thinking PA12 GF black this time around. Or aluminum since it's cheap on pcbway
Having the factory oval resonator replaced with a cherry bomb to try and get the exhaust to clear the driveshaft
grim citrus
Thinking PA12 GF black this time around. Or aluminum since it's cheap on pcbway
Yeah that is the right solution, seems like you have exhausted the non-abrasive solutions
zinc kraken
I have a ton of CF/GF reinforced filaments - PA, ASA, PETG, etc (a gift for being a Bambu Kickstarter) but I don't want any of those fibers floating around in my environment... So I may outsource the print to Pcbway anyway
I want to redesign the brackets to tie into each other for horizontal support, and to tie into the airbox rear mounting pads (normally used for the engine cover) as well so instead of being mounted with a total 2 fasteners, it'll have 4 fasteners
Gotta bust out the 3D scanner for that though
zinc kraken
Replaced the factory oval resonator with a cherry bomb brand muffler and had them add a flange. Will be going back to have them redo the over-subframe part and probably delete the now-rusty low-profile muffler that's there
Might bring the aftermarket catted headers and have them modify the whole thing to tuck all of it higher, and move the cherry bomb into the stock muffler position
zinc kraken
i ended up measuring and revising the design for the coilover reservoir brackets, then 3D printing them out of PETG-CF. they seem to be holding up better than the Sunlu Recycled Black PETG and the NAGA Grey PETG brackets. have not had much of a chance to test them out as there's a new issue
the amount of power being sent to the rear wheels, and the timing (which is almost never), is still not great. so next major upgrade will be transmission replacement/center diff swap to VDC style + Duty C Solenoid control switch to lock up the center diff on-demand for offroading needs
in the meantime, it appears the CV to hub splines are slightly stripped on the front drivers side, so i need to order new wheel hubs and probably a CV axle or two. Cardone's have doubled in price since the tariffs went into effect. thanks, obama
zinc kraken
Parts arrived Sunday, no motivation to install them. Need to dig out the spare parts I have, first
zinc kraken
regattawaggo reminded me that i have been sitting on a design for a 1-DIN OEM switch holder for years, so i got around to looking at it again. started a test print last night which failed due to a bad roll of filament. did some quick design changes (improved switch fitment, rounded corners, adjusted positioning, and started the second print
this design has three switches on the left, and a blank 3/16" thick plate on the right that can be used for custom switches/lights/phone mount/etc
i can also pretty easily make some versions for Carling style switches
zinc kraken
i'd send you my file but i plan on selling them
pretty easy to draft up though
just use a stock cubby/plate for reference
grim citrus
It's alright, I have to first decide what kinda layout I want to begin with
zinc kraken
my plan is to use one switch for all forward lighting, one switch for rearward lighting, and one switch for radiator sprayer
currently using 2 out of 3 at the moment with a EUDM 1-DIN 3 switch plate with pocket
i have LHD and RHD versions of the OEM EUDM 3 switch plates. i think the RHD version is installed in my car right now
grim citrus
my plan is to use one switch for all forward lighting, one switch for rearward l...
Don't forget to make one spare
zinc kraken
i need to figure out where to mount a comms radio. it's pretty small but there's no clean place to put it without doing a decent design/print project
grim citrus
You have a dome light unit in between the sunshades?
zinc kraken
Don't forget to make one spare
i can easily make another plate if i need to add another switch. i'll make variants with 1 through 6 switches, LHD or RHD
grim citrus
Why does it need LHD and RHD versions? Looks symmetric to me
zinc kraken
You have a dome light unit in between the sunshades?
yes, but i don't like how the coiled wire sits
zinc kraken
Why does it need LHD and RHD versions? Looks symmetric to me
switches offset closest to the driver
e.g. this is LHD
grim citrus
Can't you tweak the design so you can just flip it over?
Looks like the mounting tab is on the centerline
zinc kraken
subaru decided in all their wisdom to make it so you can't
grim citrus
Of course
zinc kraken
i think it is slightly off centerline
grim citrus
yes, but i don't like how the coiled wire sits
Can you get an extension and route it hidden so it can come out the dash or something? Have the unit up top but the mic down low
grim citrus
Make the tab a separate part
zinc kraken
my first thought was "with hardware" and my second thought was "hardware costs more money"
grim citrus
All you need is a small screw, you can print the tab itself
Or if you engineer a bit you can probably incorporate the tab lock into the design
zinc kraken
would be cool if i could make it quick detach with just a friction fit
then you don't have to remove the whole cage to get to the switch wiring
grim citrus
If the panel doesn't require much force to seat that'd work
zinc kraken
right now with the stock design it's a huge PITA to get the switch panel out for servicing/repairs. you have to pull the entire DIN cage out of the dash
grim citrus
Yeah make the face clip in
zinc kraken
with a friction fit faceplate you could just remove the radio bezel trim and then remove the switch plate
great idea, thanks
tacit oar
Print with 2 tabs and snap the one you dont need off
zinc kraken
Print with 2 tabs and snap the one you dont need off
i wish, but it's only 2-3mm off and the holes are just as big or bigger
wouldn't work
zinc kraken
redesign, testing to see if this will allow me to flip the panel AND act as a quick (but not too quick) release
adjusted the tolerances a bit on the switch holes for better fitment, resized the alignment pegs a little smaller, and made the flat surface recess taller to allow for mounting Carling style switches (hopefully)
zinc kraken
new design should print a little faster. still takes almost 5 hours. hopefully everything lines up as expected
0.8mm nozzle go brrr
grim citrus
Nice
zinc kraken
Revised the model a bit more. Removable mounting plates have a better fit, directional arrows, and use less material. The flat surface recess is now too thin top+bottom and can break, so I need to redesign it to use less material and allow whatever is mounted there to be more accessible.
grim citrus
Good work
zinc kraken
Good work
thanks. this design allows the faceplate to be flipped for easy left/right positioning
time to make more tweaks to the faceplate and then work on some variants (already had a request for a blank panel)
grim citrus
I think a blank panel is pretty useless 
zinc kraken
some people don't appreciate design
and then proceed to wire a bunch of random ass mismatched chinesium switches and buttons because it's what came with their cheap amazon lights
grim citrus
Drilling switches slightly misaligned
zinc kraken
rectangle cuts with every corner overshot
grim citrus
lol
zinc kraken
but if they're a paying customer, who am i to deny them of this sweet, sweet switchplate
grim citrus
Faster for you to do
zinc kraken
yeah. already planning a Carling switch version that shoves as many Carling switches in there as possible
grim citrus
Annoyingly space demanding but robust
zinc kraken
easy to hit when you have gloves on
grim citrus
Yea, I'll probably use more of those in my switch panel and then a couple of rotary switches
zinc kraken
started replacing front wheel bearings and hubs today on my old set of spindles that were floating around my garage
regattawaggo came over to do his and i decided i should find mine and start on them since all the correct tools were out
i have a 20 ton hydraulic press so it wasn't terrible once i figured out what worked
i got one done (i think?) but i have doubts about the outer seal (new Timken seals). might have to press the hub out and replace the seal with a better (OEM?) one
the second one has the bearing installed, but no seals
zinc kraken
All done. I used permatex thread seal + lock which takes 72 hours to cure and says it really only works on metal. It works in static testing but who knows what'll happen when there's heat+vibration involved. If it's an issue I'll use something else next time, like RTV 😂
tacit oar
All done. I used permatex thread seal + lock which takes 72 hours to cure and sa...
Wtf did you need sealant for on a bearing swap
zinc kraken
Wtf did you need sealant for on a bearing swap
The fit between the Timken outer seals and the knuckle isn't tight enough to stop the seal from spinning in the knuckle when the hub moves
tacit oar
Lovely
zinc kraken
(OEM seals cost 2x-3x what the Timkens cost)
grim citrus
Kinda bearings do you have that you have to buy seals separately? I've never seen a press-in bearing that didn't come with seals
It uses the same bearings as the first 2 gen Imprezas, I'm even more confused now
zinc kraken
Kinda bearings do you have that you have to buy seals separately? I've never see...
SF forester, BE/BH/Baja
yours should be the same, but probably with the addition of a tone ring?
i used NSK bearings for this one but Koyo also does not have seals. the knuckles are all designed and machined to house totally separate seals that you have to order separately
SKF also does not have integrated seals
the spindles on my car right now ('04 BH) are from an SF Forester, which was identical in fitment and assembly. the original ones i pulled off the car are the ones i'm rebuilding right now so i know everything should be correct
@grim citrus show some examples of yours where the bearing has seals integrated and it doesn't have grooves for seals against the hubs/knuckle
all the examples i've seen (FSM instructions, parts store lookups) for GC's/etc have external seals
could be that you're supposed to install these, but haven't been because the specific bearings your supplier provides have seals. but they're supposed to be external
tacit oar
SF forester, BE/BH/Baja
Ive done BH ones they come with a genuine cv nut in the box
Oem bearing kit
zinc kraken
Ive done BH ones they come with a genuine cv nut in the box
Why are there three seals? The FSM only specifies two for BH and RockAuto and every other parts store specifies two. The hub I bought came with a CV nut.
Also Subaru of America diagrams only show two seals, which matches the FSM, which matches all of the parts stores
tacit oar
Why are there three seals? The FSM only specifies two for BH and RockAuto and ev...
The outer one also goes against the bearing
I think theyre for a gd tho
zinc kraken
Yes so not the same car
tacit oar
But yeah I can get those cbc kits for anything
Made locally with oem parts
Like $100 aud a pair
zinc kraken
GC(whatever was in the US), SF, BE and BH are all the same in terms of seal quantity and they only use two external seals
And we don't have CBC in the USA
at all
tacit oar
Ah yea its very Australian
grim citrus
<@281512747596775424> show some examples of yours where the bearing has seals in...
I should've said "bearing kit". I've never seen a bearing kit that didn't come with seals in the package.
Recently I've used SNR/NTN bearings, but I've also used SKF and some others. They've always come with the seals and I've never had to buy them separately
zinc kraken
They don't sell bearing kits here, never seen one in my life. You want a bearing with external seals, you buy it with the hub and already assembled lol
They sell bearings and seals separately, everywhere. Parts stores and dealers
Including SKF
A kit would be nice but I suspect they don't because Americans are cheap and stupid
Also bearings and seals don't always match so the number of combinations and packaging they would have to make for the American market would be stupid
grim citrus
They sell bearings and seals separately, everywhere. Parts stores and dealers
Weird, and interesting they bother with different packaging for different markets
grim citrus
A kit would be nice but I suspect they don't because Americans are cheap and stu...
As for this, funny you say that because when it comes to fabrication, adapters and such Americans are much more willing to pay than Europoors
But yeah I would've never expected something like that to be different between the markets
zinc kraken
Yep. Bought Timken seals, snap rings, NSK bearing, and Dorman hub (which came with CV nut) separately
If there were quality kits I would have bought one much sooner
grim citrus
I'll have to start exporting NTN bearings to US
zinc kraken
What's special about NTN bearings?
grim citrus
Just that they're Japanese
zinc kraken
lol. The ones I bought are Japanese
grim citrus
This is what the offerings for wheel bearings look like here
I doubt even the ones portraying just the bearing would only come with the bearing
zinc kraken
We have at least three choices for imported Japanese bearings including NTN (under a different name but the NTN laser etching is still there)
grim citrus
That SNR there is NTN
zinc kraken
Koyo, NTN, NSK are the ones I see on RockAuto
zinc kraken
forgot to post an update here but i installed the rebuilt spindles and a new drivers side CV axle, and have been driving around on them for a bit. they seem to work fine. the day after i had everything back together i went for a test drive and noticed the passenger CV axle clicking at full lock. so i took it apart again and replaced the CV axle with a new one
zinc kraken
Last minute Gambler prep was 3D printing new coilover reservoir brackets for the engine bay using PAHT-CF since the PETG-CF ones deformed. I had redesigned the bracket on the driver's side for better mounting of the Chinesium ARB clone diff/trans breather relocation unit/filter. To get PAHT-CF to stick, I had to pre-heat the chamber to over 50c and use glue stick on the textured PEI bed
I also made a proper plug n play power adapter for the 25w QYT radio I bought using a spare molex connector/pins and a spare 5521 adapter. I had wired two male 5521 connectors poking out of the bottom of the center console to power the seat coolers. The passenger side one now powers the radio, and can power the seat cooler too if I buy a splitter
I took the handheld mic off the old Baofeng, moved the roof mounted antenna connection over to the new radio, slapped a stubby antenna on the Baofeng, and moved the Baofeng car charging dock to the spot where the old handheld mic was. Designed and 3D printed an adapter plate for the new handheld mic for the cupholder delete I made a while ago, where the Baofeng dock was. So now I have an easy access mic, and an easy access portable radio to grab when I get out of the car or use when the car is off
To mount the new radio, I sanded its mounting bracket, wiped it down with isopropyl alcohol, then applied a thin sheet of VHB tape and then hook and loop tape. The other side of the hook and loop tape got VHB as well, then I cleaned the passenger side of the center console where it needed to mount & applied the VHB taped hook and loop tape
the only improvement I could make would be to mount a speaker closer to me so I can hear it better. The one built into the radio is loud as fuck but it's facing the passenger side
zinc kraken
a while ago I noticed the rear upper control (camber) arms were cracking at the gussets made by godspeed. I could strip them and reinforce them.... But why? I'm going to throw stock style cast iron upper control arms on with a proper bump stop pad so I don't have to deal with them bending or cracking any more
Weight increase, buuuut I never have to worry about a catastrophic failure
The only other option at this point would be to take some measurements and build a custom set of upper control arms
grim citrus
You can't just tell what you have done like that, we need pictures
zinc kraken
i'm tired boss
grim citrus
I'm not your boss, chief
zinc kraken
i'm not your chief, friend
grim citrus
I'm not your friend, pal
zinc kraken
i'm not your pal, buddy
grim citrus
I'm not your buddy, honey
zinc kraken
i'm not your honey, sweetie pie
grim citrus
I'm not your sweetie pie, sour grapes
zinc kraken
i'm not your sour grapes, fish eater
grim citrus
I don't eat fish, my mom is deathly allergic
sour quail
I'm not deathly allergic, I like trains
zinc kraken
You can't just tell what you have done like that, we need pictures
Sorry the best I could do is a full Instagram reel
Instagram
grim citrus
Neat. That's one expensive Aliexpress radio, can't imagine what a name-brand one would cost
zinc kraken
Neat. That's one expensive Aliexpress radio, can't imagine what a name-brand one...
I paid $83.06 USD
name brand 25w tri-band radios are insanely expensive
even just name brand 25w
grim citrus
Yeah I figured, that's semi expensive for an ali product
I'm debating whether to put a CB radio in mine
Dad has one stuffed away, wonder if it still works
zinc kraken
Not exactly the same but yeah name brand ones of similar spec are about 2x-4x what I paid
Kenwood, Motorola, Rugged Radios, Midland are all brands I looked at
grim citrus
Yeah
zinc kraken
I have a Midland portable CB radio in the pockets of my car if I run into an old fart still using CB
reminds me, I need to add another 12v socket, an extension, or get/make a 5521 adapter for it
No more cigarette lighter style sockets in the front of my car
I put one in my power station build so I suppose I could use that if I needed to
grim citrus
I've yet to come up with a solid idea for 5v supply for all things little
zinc kraken
I've yet to come up with a solid idea for 5v supply for all things little
AliExpress stepdown modules with some JST connectors for connections. Throw em in 3D printed housings or combine all to make a big power distribution block
grim citrus
I'd prefer something more compact but I haven't come up with where to soak the heat
zinc kraken
Just use a 20x20 fan or something like that
grim citrus
Also the adjustable stepdowns can be pretty shitty, mine arrived DOA
grim citrus
Just use a 20x20 fan or something like that
I'd prefer passive but for 3D printed housing that might be the best idea
zinc kraken
Printed housing would provide protection and a shroud for cooling with fans
grim citrus
I mean with an alu housing sinking the heat would be a no brainer
tacit oar
Can you put like 3 wings on the back too please
zinc kraken
Can you put like 3 wings on the back too please
2 is the limit for me
tacit oar
Nah have you seen the guy who mounted a sedan wing to the bottom of his bumper
zinc kraken
on a BH? no
i was thinking about getting the freeway dolphin mid wing but they're hard to get now
tacit oar
I might have a wtac photo somewhere
zinc kraken
been trying to fix my HVAC blower fan. It stopped working a few weeks ago
fuses: multimeter confirms good on both legs of all three fuses
blower motor relay power input: multimeter confirms good
blower motor relay power output: Not Good™
blower motor: power from relay Not Good™
blower motor resistor: multimeter confirms it's functioning as expected
I had spent a few hours in a junkyard today in the pouring rain to get a new resistor. Got home, plugged it in, it was not in fact a problem with the resistor
So now I get to go back tomorrow morning and grab the relay, the pigtails for the relay and the blower motor if I have to run a new power supply wire, and maybe buy another auto climate control switch plate just in case for later
Pretty sure it's just a bad relay
I hear it click when I toggle the fans off and on, but the output voltage from the relay at the relay connector is never anywhere close to 12v
Side note, the resistor for this car is actually a transistor because of how the auto climate control works, and it only came on BE/BH/Baja with auto climate controls. It is not interchangeable with any other vehicles at all and is unique to this application
So naturally they cost ~$250
If you can even find a new one
zinc kraken
a what
grim citrus
Solid state relay
wet marsh
i re-did the hold-down for my fluid bin using another one of these https://nitei...
mechanical half hitch loop
you should make an airblade for your mister
zinc kraken
mechanical half hitch loop
They work great, I'm pretty happy with them
zinc kraken
you should make an airblade for your mister
Having some problems visualizing how that would work, any ideas?
wet marsh
less like an air knife more like a venturi siphon I guess is what i was think
would probably be a pain in the butt getting a venturi siphon to work the long way
zinc kraken
I think a more effective thing to do is install a smaller trans cooler and then install a pusher fan on it
wet marsh
idk you have the compressed air already
air knife and venturi siphon workin together often found at the carwash
zinc kraken
I have neither the water supply nor compressed air for that
I have like a quart of water for the misters and the air compressor is not hard mounted
I refill the mister reservoir periodically
wet marsh
I wasnt suggesting a carwash level
zinc kraken
I found some venturi siphon nozzles on Amazon for like $25 each
I think I have $30 into my entire misting setup
wet marsh
i thought you were big on the printed stuff. this was just the first thought that came to my mind when i came upon that section
think carburetor for an atomized mist
and blades just double flow rate actually 40x and aim
zinc kraken
I had never heard of those systems until now so I couldn't really design one from scratch
wet marsh
not with that attitude
zinc kraken
I don't really see the need to complicate things with more parts and an air compressor
Right now I have the cheap mister nozzles in a ring around the radiators
Adding air lines, air fittings, and two blades to duplicate the current spray area along with a air storage tank with a separate switchable regulated low pressure outlet doesn't seem like it's worth the money or labor
Current struggle is just finding a good/safe place to hard mount the onboard air compressor. It's really tight in there, and the areas that are open are also conveniently extremely hot ambient temp zones
I'm thinking of finding or making a place in the rear subframe area of the car and remote mounting the intake filter inside the car
but then I have to run lines and wires to the front of the car
wet marsh
better off reverse snorkle
zinc kraken
I'm thinking of just 3D printing a chunky TPU foot assembly or some adapter bracket for the Chinesium ARB Single clone I have to slot into a safe spot in the engine bay, then throwing on an SB50 connector and adding a SB50 hard mounted somewhere in the engine bay.
and adding a manifold with quick connects for NPT and BSP to the inlet on the air distribution system
Then I can just pop the hood, plop the compressor, plug power and plug in air and just wait
wet marsh
Peltier cooler when
zinc kraken
ideally I can find a spot up front maybe in the bumper or fender where the compressor can be mounted
Peltier setups just aren't efficient enough, I looked into it
Mostly for my coilover reservoirs
wet marsh
by themselves there not but with a heatsink they do alright
zinc kraken
You have to consider the high ambient temps too
I bought most of the parts I need to hard mount the compressor and add JBSP and NPT quick connects to a manifold for use with non-onboard compressors too, just waiting on them to arrive. If there is room to hard mount the compressor I'll order the 1/4" NPT pneumatic PC10 quick connect fittings and find/buy some 3/8 nylon tubing to get it attached full time
wet marsh
zinc kraken
One of my friends has a STL for a 3D printed part to add an additional OEM switch next to the stock fog, cruise, and heated windshield switches. Need to get that from him so I can add another switch for the onboard air if I can hard mount it
wet marsh
actually amazingly cheap for sharkbites
i would personally feel more comfortable with steel brake line but im not installing it and its not my car😆 worst case you invested into a fuuture project
zinc kraken
It uses 3/8 nylon for the air distribution system going to each wheel well. Aluminum would be the move, for compressor heat dissipation
but I'll deal with that if I have to. Sufficiently thick nylon tubing should be adequate
wet marsh
the joints though is what will getya
zinc kraken
Even at under 100 psi?
The whole air distribution setup uses shark bite style connectors and 3/8 nylon
wet marsh
the shark bites arent rock solid theyll fail eventually even if you take great care and do everyone perfect
and theyre rated for 140 psi
but honestly 60 bucks and an hr is worth it reguardless
zinc kraken
if it works, it works. I can run any type of line to the distribution system as it has a 1/4" NPT inlet, iirc, and I'll be attaching a 1/4" NPT manifold for portable compressor quick connects
bought a wangsucc 5 in 1 FNPT quick connect and a JBSP quick connect for that manifold. Will let me use anyone's compressor whether it's a normal shop line or Chinesium with Japan BSP fittings
wet marsh
ive been hyper fixating a little on this misting thing theres some good information here
zinc kraken
Subaru had OEM intercooler sprayers on STI's
zinc kraken
Yeah, I still need it to be thick enough to form droplets that attach to the radiators with the vehicle at speed and the fans on
If it's too fine there's a chance that it'll just go through the radiators without attaching and then get sucked out of the engine bay
Right now the nozzles are clogged somehow even though I've only ever filled it with distilled water, so I have to uninstall them and clean them
wet marsh
theres a dive into deionized vs distilled there too
grim citrus
I tested garden sprayers and those gave a pretty good mist
zinc kraken
Yeah, that's what I use
wet marsh
there has to be a few research papers about particle size of droplets effectiveness
zinc kraken
The atomization level depends on the pressure level and if the nozzles are clogged
At lower pressures it seems to just spray a jet of water
At higher pressures they atomize properly
wet marsh
impact needle nozzles work like a carb
zinc kraken
I read the Ford thread and it didn't have many new insights other than the idea of just flooding it for a shorter time
The Subaru IC spray system works similarly to the Ferd guys temp and boost based system
Automatically triggers the spray when a certain temp is hit. Tank and pump sits in the trunk
I have no room or desire to hold a leaky water jug in my car so I keep it in the toasty engine bay which reduces its effectiveness, but since it's warmer it leads to faster evaporation
my system is all manual control, so I have been triggering it before the base of a hill to saturate it when I actually need it
wet marsh
yeah the real effectiveness is from the phase change
zinc kraken
Yep
Would be neat to have a moisture/humidity switch that triggers the system when it gets too dry
Master switch arms the system, actual spraying determined by moisture level on the sensor
wet marsh
could work up something with an arduino sensor pretty easily
zinc kraken
most water sensors aren't designed to be used in a moving car. i'd probably end up using an air temperature probe in the radiator fan outlet path and logging temps in a variety of scenarios and then figure out how to trigger +12v based on temperature rise rate/plateau
except i'm not a good programmer at all, or even a bad programmer
ooooh
After trepanning, it can install or embed on various equipments, and was convenient as well as practical.
😍
digital humidity controller might work great
the problem is it's a fixed percentage
probe location would be critical
zinc kraken
when people ask why i have a humidity sensor on my dashboard i can tell them it's to detect when the headgasket starts leaking
another idea... insert a 2 pin adjustable flasher relay into the circuit for the rad sprayer pump, so it pulses
would reduce water consumption while allowing the water time to travel across the radiators
no fancy logic to cause problems if it's raining or the sensor gets wet from a water crossing right before a hillclimb
the other idea is to use something like this STC-3018 to trigger it based on temperature https://www.aliexpress.us/item/3256806973184959.html
and then just set a fixed temp ceiling where it'll automatically run when that temp hits again
wet marsh
the ruby impact ones i linked earlier use 50-80 ml of water a min @ 2bar
for 2sq meter coverage
zinc kraken
if you build a setup for your own rig, tag me with the results
i just had another idea...
downsize the trans cooler to a square format instead of a long rectangle, so it's in front of the left half of the radiator instead of the bottom half of the radiator, wire it off of one of these temperature controllers, and tie the sprayer system into the controller as well (keeping the cabin switch as the master on/off for the sprayers) and re-routing some of the nozzles to focus on the pusher fan inlet
so you get a forced air mister setup that's temperature controlled
wet marsh
i mighnt if only to freak ppl out at the gas station
zinc kraken
forgot to provide an update but i fixed the issue with the HVAC blower fan by swapping out the relays for a junkyard one the second day of troubleshooting (the second day at the junkyard in a row). also nabbed an OEM blower fan motor noise isolator, all the pigtails for the HVAC blower system main connections if i have to run bypass wires eventually, and a spare auto climate control switch plate
so now the HVAC system works great and is quieter than before
i also ordered one of the STC-3018 temp control modules to integrate into the car. i think it'd be an easy way to add temp control for a pusher fan/the sprayer, plus it's got cool DIY BTTF industrial control vibes and should fit into my 3D printed DIN sized OEM switch faceplate
another week or so and i'll have all the parts for my onboard air compressor install
took the car out to Pismo Beach and Oceano Dunes SVRA over the weekend to go camping and offroading in the dunes with friends. car did great, didn't get stuck once
zinc kraken
zinc kraken
zinc kraken
Finally put the VEVOR clone of the ARB single air compressor into the car. We'll see how long it lasts. Need to crimp some wires and make a relay harness that ties into the pressure switch, design and print a bracket for a waterproof switch near the manifold, a splash shield for the manifold & some TPU caps for the air quick connects.
Installed a new DIY manifold setup because the OVS one fucking exploded when I tried (and failed) to remove the plug for the hard-mounted air compressor inlet. The plug was seized in the manifold box and rounding out like soft cheese. It eventually cracked trying to remove it with an extractor set (still couldn't remove it even after it cracked in 2 places).
The new manifold has a quick connect for Nitto/JBSP and one for universal NPT, so if the onboard air compressor dies I can borrow someone else's compressor to refill all four of the tires quickly since I have the rest of the OVS 4 tire air up/down kit. I also included the Schrader valve and the manual and automatic pressure relief valves from the old OVS manifold
zinc kraken
lol, and OVS got back to me saying they would do a warranty claim if i return the pieces of the old unit, so it looks like i'm tearing it all apart again
zinc kraken
onboard air system pretty much done now. gotta 3D print a bracket to mount the switch securely
tacit oar
Was gonna say either that pump is fucked or the gauge is toast
Good to know its the gauge lmao
zinc kraken
yeah I'm hoping it'll be normal with all 4 tires hooked up
zinc kraken
prototype design for the onboard air compressor switch bracket
need to 3D print and test
zinc kraken
aaaaaaand not only does it not fit the switch, i reconnected the switch pins out of order and blew the fuse and melted a ground wire for the switch light bulb. so I added yet another smaller fuse inline for the switch circuit in case future me or future owner is also stupid. also replaced the main 40a fuse with an automatic reset circuit breaker
need to redesign the switch bracket for the proper switch dimensions. the mounting tab dimensions are correct
should've measured instead of just using the one form of Carling documentation I found
zinc kraken
new switch bracket designed, printed, and installed. THE ONBOARD AIR COMPRESSOR PROJECT IS FINALLY COMPLETE (until it breaks)
zinc kraken
Switch installed. Recap video showing the onboard air compressor project.
zinc kraken
Here's how I use the onboard air compressor to fill up tires on other vehicles if necessary
I put the yellow hose and NPT adapter + air chuck into a small bag, inside of the bag that has the jumper hoses
grim citrus
That is nice
zinc kraken
zinc kraken
got my Starlink Mini set up. works good and OOTB it fits inside of the rear sunroof with the sun shade closed
here's the speeds on the $5/mo standby plan with it sitting outside of the car
now I can probably remove the DIY cell boost setup
the car currently has an omnidirectional 4g amplified antenna, 12v cell modem, and 12v wifi ap installed
which when I take the SIM out of my phone and install it into the car cell modem, boosts the signal strength by a couple bars compared to what phones alone would get
the problem being wifi calling doesnt really work right, and the fact that every time I want to make or receive a call I have to remove/reinstall the SIM kinda sucks
wifi calling should work on starlink.... I need to test that out another day
zinc kraken
more air compressor stuff. trying to add a pressure controller so I can just program a certain PSI and the air compressor will shut off at that point
zinc kraken
installed a 949Racing steering wheel spacer. +100 ergonomics
it brings the steering wheel 55mm closer to the driver, and is machined in 3 pieces bolted together (surround, column mounting plate, wheel stud spline plate)
i was having ergonomics issues especially with some of the long drives i do.
before installing the extender, there were 2 seat positions:
- arms comfy, legs too close to the firewall causing leg pain on long drives
- legs comfy, arms too far away which caused me to push my shoulders forward and get neck/shoulder pain on long drives
this extender brings the wheel closer so i can have both my arms and legs in a comfortable position.
hopefully this solves the pain points
airbag and horn are still connected
fierce quail
Big brain moves
zinc kraken
update on this, got a longer coiled hose and it works great. topped off some 35s on a friends ranger raptor pretty quick.
went offroading at the local OHV park with some friends, wanted to check rear wheel flex with the stock style cast iron rear upper control arms in the frame twister obstacle and it was the same as before according to my buddy Jon
ordered several more Cardone axles since they appear to be going out of business as we know it
aaaand took more video for a YouTube intro that I've been wanting to put together
zinc kraken
zinc kraken
@normal shell
limpid grotto
looks like you got some work ahead of yourself
zinc kraken
yeah i'm trying to keep it to a minimum. an offroading buddy of mine has a shop and said he'd swap it out for $500 AND serve me some BBQ
so im gonna take him up on the offer
Just gotta get my old 250k+ mile 4EAT from my folks place and maybe a new torque converter
normal shell
tacit oar
I hate how it failed just crusing not even doing dumb shit
sour quail
downshifts are dangerous, mkay
zinc kraken
zinc kraken
zinc kraken
pulled and replaced the transmission on Saturday. the only thing broken was the transmission, everything else was the same as always
diff case was shattered almost completely at the trans to bellhousing join, input shaft collar was snapped in two places and seized in the torque converter extension housing
the replacement transmission i used was the original 250k+ mile unit ED-E, Jake, and I pulled from my car back in 2021
which was sitting in the same garage as my firebird, the garage that caught on fire and was then flooded by the firefighters
we flushed the 250k+ mile torque converter with fresh dexron 3 and the now-removed input shaft to spin the new fluid into the converter in between draining it into a pan. also installed new filters inside the 4EAT and the spin-on external unit remote mounted in the fender (bh h6 thing)
installed a fresh input shaft oring and torque converter seal too. the trans fluid that was in the transmission was drained and replaced with Castrol TES-668 fluid, along with a 1/4 bottle of Lucas Trans Fix, after we installed a Subiworks/RFC Parts cast aluminum transmission pan. Hopefully it doesnt break from rock impacts, but if it does, i'll be able to call them out in their claim that a skidplate isnt necessary with it. diff oil drained and refilled with a mix of Lucas 75w90 and 85w140
the h6 exhaust cat heat shielding had to be clearanced for the new drain bolt location
car drove great on the way back home. got back home around 4:30 AM, got to sleep by 5 AM. then woke up at 10 to go walk all day and push a stroller around the county arboretum
grim citrus
I don't think it's supposed to look like that
tacit oar
installed a fresh input shaft oring and torque converter seal too. the trans flu...
I would heavily recommend NOT running a cast pan without a bash plate
zinc kraken
recap of the transmission saga
https://www.instagram.com/reel/DU2aOFNEgh5/
Instagram
zinc kraken
I would heavily recommend NOT running a cast pan without a bash plate
jokes on you i couldn't run a bash plate with the stock pan either
#justBHH6things
tacit oar
At least the pan would bend instead of shatter
zinc kraken
we'll find out for sure 🙂
assuming i even hit it. i've only hit the steel pan once in 10 years
this cast pan sits lower, but still higher than the exhaust, which i rarely hit
zinc kraken
update:
transmission works. getting some very very quiet chattering, probably the 260k mile torque converter, or the fluid. otherwise it works better than the old one. most of the driveline clunks and slack it used to have is now completely gone.
car interior and tools were trashed from the transmission swap project (tools and supplies everywhere along with protective paneling/plastic layers to shield the cargo bay). so i spent a few hours cleaning and reorganizing the car and my garage to get ready for a Gambler event i organized that is happening this weekend. all the camping stuff is back in place, recovery gear, tools, and spare supplies inventoried/refreshed/reorganized
the skidplate has taken some pretty hard hits over the past few years and the welds for the forward support legs all cracked when smashing the skidplate back into shape, so last time i smashed it back into shape i broke them off completely and then reattached them at the correct angle with UV resin that was just strong enough to get the skidplate installed with the 2"x2" steel square tube spacer. i need to stop by a steel supplier this week and pick up a 24" length of 2"x4" steel square tube in ~0.125" thickness and drill some holes in it to make a new one-piece spacer
one of the captured nuts on the front subframe jack plate snapped off so i ordered a new one since i don't feel like pulling out my welder/JB weld to reattach a nut there (maybe later to have as a spare?)
the threads were messed up on the three captured nuts that attach the skidplate to the core support, so i ran a tap through them to clean them up and found a spare bolt to replace one where the threads were just gone + ordered another 5 bolts that probably won't arrive until i'm in the middle of the gambler
the welds are starting to crack on those captured nuts so i need to come up with a new skidplate / stronger skidplate attachment system there or fix them the same way we fixed the front control arm mounts in the unibody
sour quail
saw your latest story, wtf happened???
tacit oar
Lol the other car is fuckin mint in comparison
sour quail
is it really totalled??
zinc kraken
wouldnt total it for a sideswipe
its a BH
zinc kraken
no i am not reporting this lol
grim citrus
What happened? Someone gave you a snuggle and ran?
zinc kraken
brakes on the jaguar failed during a long downhill run
grim citrus
That sucks
grim citrus
Fortunately nothing structural. It's not pretty, but it still functions fine as a car
Assuming the tie rod took the brunt of the force transmitted to the suspension
zinc kraken
yeah, everything seems fine
i pulled out my spare inner tie rod and he replaced it for me after we pulled the front subframe a little straighter on his car. he hit my tire and a large rock and the large rock pushed back his front subframe on the drivers side a bit so the wheel was rubbing the arch and he couldn't turn full lock left. we had some time to kill after we got to a major dirt intersection where his dad was going to pick him up with the tow rig, so i asked if we could try to pull the frame using our vehicles as anchors plus the winch to do the straightening and he agreed it was worth a shot. he was talking about finding another car and swapping over the LS stuff but it would probably be fine with like an hour on the frame rack
my car tracks pretty much perfectly straight at the moment, so it's probably a hair toe-in or exactly zero toe with me sitting in it. pretty amazing tbh
and we were able to winch his front subframe forward again a couple CM so now the wheel can turn lock to lock without rubbing
grim citrus
Yeah, could've been a lot worse. Is he paying you for the damages or is that just the nature of the sport?
zinc kraken
i didn't ask him to do anything as it's the nature of the sport. he offered to buy me an inner tie rod and i saw him posting on IG asking if anybody has a lead on doors and a fender
grim citrus
Sounds like a solid guy. To be honest, before that incident your car was probably cleaner than mine and offroad generally is more suffering for the body. Well, from most angles it still is
zinc kraken
it podiumed at the subiefest car show 3x, once with a 1st place win
collisions with another vehicle aren't normal offroad damage
grim citrus
I meant scuffs and scratches in general
zinc kraken
also an update on the transmission: in 1st and 2nd gear under medium or more throttle the torque converter or something shudders bad
i initially thought it was CV axle, but it is not
both front CV's are now fresh and it still does it soooo
zinc anchor
both front CV's are now fresh and it still does it soooo
5eat time
sour quail
6MT time?
sour quail
dual range 5MT then?
zinc kraken
foggy swan
Time for your 4eat to just shit the bed
grim citrus
8HP time
zinc kraken
newest revision of the DIN sized OEM switch pocket. need to print it out and do a strength test. might have to add some support arms or some type of interlock with the cap to prevent sagging. we'll see!
grim citrus
Nice work, is that a phone pocket?
zinc kraken
yep, the stock EUDM one is too small to fit most smartphones
this pocket is big enough for sunglasses, phones, etc.
zinc anchor
newest revision of the DIN sized OEM switch pocket. need to print it out and do ...
what material will you print with?
zinc kraken
i have been using Sunlu Recycled Black PETG for almost all of my prints
i've printed different versions of this switch pocket before. one's currently in my car being used
i was using a 0.8mm nozzle for the prints, but i'm switching to a 0.4. curious to see if there's any difference in strength. i know the surface finish on the face will be better (smaller gaps in the textured finish)
grim citrus
I do basically all my printing on PETG and 0.4. I have a tendency to overspec the prints, and I'm always surprised at how few perimeters and little infill can result in so rigid and strong parts
I should do some destructive testing to see if I can get reasonably accurate FEM results
zinc kraken
i want the pocket to be a separate module so it can be printed quickly, ship via padded mailers, and assemble easily and with some strength, but there's just not enough room to have adequate material thickness with PETG. i absolutely will not use GF or CF reinforced filaments because this is a touch item
i bounce between ASA and PETG for my prints. most prints are PETG but when i need something more rigid i go with ASA
so realistically i should be printing these faceplates out of ASA. the mounting arms can be PETG
ASA would have a better surface finish as well - less shiny
but my printer stays in my office and even with a bunch of HEPA filters inside and outside of the X1C, printing ASA is not ideal
grim citrus
Print the entire shit with ASA, locate the pocket to the face with a groove and acetone it together?
zinc kraken
the reason i would want the pocket to be separate is shipping
i can't expect people to play with ABS glue/acetone
grim citrus
Oh, thought it was a print optimization thing
zinc kraken
that's part of it but shipping is the main thing
shipping a padded mailer is so much cheaper than a box
grim citrus
Right
There's not much room to play with for any neat joining solutions that even a monke could do
zinc kraken
not with PETG. injection molded PP or PA sure
grim citrus
Just do that
zinc kraken
zinc anchor
<:5head:1358118063597158401>
i was just wondering because i’d like to build toward something similar to your car someday, how did you manage upgrades, like, did you do the 4” lift and suspension arms and tires all at the same time?
zinc kraken
i was just wondering because i’d like to build toward something similar to your ...
I did the lift and rear suspension at the same time, then tires
then front suspension immediately after when I was trying to clear the bigger tires
zinc anchor
do you have pics of it with the raised suspension and normal tires? lol
zinc kraken
the STI front arms helped a bit with fitting 235/75/15
zinc kraken
do you have pics of it with the raised suspension and normal tires? lol
215/70/16 I think? been a long time
unique geyser
God damn that 4" lift is fucking hot.. like sheeeeeeeshhhh.
unique geyser
i was using a 0.8mm nozzle for the prints, but i'm switching to a 0.4. curious t...
I've only ever printed petg in 0.4 on the ultimaker s5 I use, if you want some pictures ahead of time unless youve already sent it on the 0.4 nozzles happy to send some to you of the prints I've done. Surface finish is pretty good all things considered for a printed part. I've been fighting stringing issues but that's just the printer I'm using
zinc kraken
I normally use 0.4, but i needed to print some PAHT-CF parts so i switched to a 0.8 for a while and didnt change it back immediately after printing those CF nylon parts