#Project Kono (koonh-yoh) | 2000 RS Modification & Build
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
get q visa for you and your car and come hit the dragons tail, better than speedbumls
god damn my typing is worse than a dogs aim
if only I could... sadly I'm not in any special category that can be granted a greencard
unless I marry a citizen or win the visa lottery
and given I can't even find a GF local to me, my chances of finding one remotely are even worse
i'm getting old and tired to be looking at moving across the world anymore tho.
fair enough
especially in this economy and with the price of houses now, I've missed the boat of trying to get onto the property ladder about 8 years ago
i dont think i was even alive then
yeah i was nevermind
okay well my electric one i borrows goes up to 100, probaly because its a 3/8s, my angry-clicker-but-single-clicker torquer doohickey goes up to 150 so we just made the cut
i think those nuts for the trans are the same as the exhaust and trans > engine studs so im gonna try to see if they thread, my favorite game.
they might be m10 i dunno though i dont really feel like looking
Gonna get a big payout, FINNALY found N/A tuning and a shop that will make -illegal- catless exhaust. I accidently just juggled my phone. Ordered my defi ZD for the zoom zoom info, and some random things which is LED AC lights to match my blue cluster lights (my window auto switch will still be green until i rip it apart
) and some prodrive stickers for the replica "NBR Prodrive Edition STI" that dosent actually exist and somehow i made that up in my head that its a real thing, but its okay to be different i guess. Now we just have to hope i dont fuck up timing and that i dont have to adjust my valves because its a pain in the ass.
Door switch lights are a pain to replace, they're literally tiny LEDs soldered onto the board
When you said door switch lights that made me want to replace mine, so I went and grabbed the switch from my door to find out what bulbs I needed lol
yeah, i was hoping that i could use my extra leds i have for that but i guess im unlucky
i dont know why they chose green for stock
Green is a relaxing light to the human eye in the dark
not in my opinion
Also the human eye is best capable of picking out green lights in darkness over any other light color, reason why night vision goggles are always green aswell and not red or blue or yellow
I see them as black and white
wait thats infared nevermind
i was going by the scope on my airsoft gun i spend 300 bucks on because it "looked cool"
Yeah thats IR. Traditional NVG works with amplifying the green light spectrum of whatever light source is out there
a friend has blue in his gauge cluster and I was struggling to read it in the dark ngl
his were quite dim tho
well i can adjust the brightness with the knob, its usually on max though because it feels better
and it keeps me awake in the early morning hours
they should be really bright though if they are leds
i actually don't know if hes got leds in there
or if they're normal blue bulbs
i think they're normal
Both heads are now headed, intake manifolded is intaked, and timing belt is belted, last things like lubricating the engine with lubrication, and pluging the plugs in are last things for the engine, tomorrow is transmission day, the bolts and nuts wont be here till friday so im going to get everything else like cv axels axeled, shifter linkage linked, and transmission... transmissioned? but bolts and mount are going to be last minute before saturday when i go and fix another 3 codes on my friends 2001 RS 
Got my turbo in, plans are to make around 20 psi with this massive snail
@left rain
yeah i was looking for the ones for the wishbones, i didnt realise they were on those sheets
damn i wish i could pin shit in this
manual in
clutch cable was put in and should be working, but the only tension i have it on the spring
the clutch fork didnt look cracked, i really hope my tob was the correct size, oreilys said it was.
Okay so turns out the people on RS25 are the dumbest fucks when it comes to subarus, like who the hell doesn't know what a clutch cable is?
well one guy atleast
Aparently everyone, im a dumbass and my cable clutch is not real and its only my imagination 
No shit
Everybody there dumb as rocks
Well it dont matter no way. Got it fixed with some washers and it works flawlessly now, everything else except cv axels installed and then oil lube applied to whatever
oh and driveshaft
New CV axels in
I was drunk i realize now that picture was shit
Everything is torqued to the specs except my swap bar for some reason it decided to snap so we have one less linkage
thats just a joke i replaced it.
Fluids and priming the engine is last, then stick that wire in the ecu and start er up
just hope it dont ho kaboom and we dont hear the pistons hitting against the heads or some shit.
my luck says i would put both headgaskets on backwards which actually happend but i caught it in time.
Car is done, its technically not yesterday anymore so i didn't start and drive it yesterday but i should today.
Runs great, trans shifts good, now just hook up a hydro clutch and wear out the new cv axels so they arent so stiff and we can send this bitch
Okay so must have messed up a ground or something because 3 & 4 have no spark from the coil pack, now i have to trace all this shit because i meased up a ground or something. Dont know what since i just plugged/unplugged ecu wires in and didnt take my intake manifold apart. Only 2 grounds i messed with were engine block > frame & transmission > firewall which i just unbolted and bolted back after i was done. New bolts were used for the starter ground and the engine > frame but the starter works so it should be an issue. probaly going to make a question thing if i dont figure it out, not very good with wiring anyways.
Is the 3/4 signal going to the coil? The 3 wires going to the plug are 12V, 1/2 and 3/4 signals. If you have a 4 pin coil, the 4th is most likely ground but don't quote me on that
so it possibly shit itself?
yeah 2 are triggers, 1 12v, 1 ground
the other 2 work so i bet its the trigger wire, but the ecu pins are straight, the connecter to the wiring harness from firewall is good, and i havent disconnected the coil pack from it.
only thing that would have happend is a bird shit on my coilpack but how the hell would that break it
Check the points where the coil mounts to chassis. At least the old style coil grounds itself through the mounting points to the intake.
If there is oxidation it might prevent it from grounding
Okay i will once im home
Actually its a 6 wire according to this thing
Yesh you were right it is 4 wire
ground would mess them all up though so it must be a trigger wire, any ideas?
Pinched wire somewhere
well fuck me
not litterly
uh
i guess ill look at wirin g diagrams until i find something
There isn't much to look at, those wires go directly to ECU
And the 12V and ground that don't would screw up your spark completely
So either the coil is shot, the wire is screwed up somewhere or your ECU is toast
there is no way its shot, it worked flawlessly before i ripped my engine apart for head gaskets it cant go bad by existing
i tested another ECU
and i was loking for my spare coil pack
i used a B2 (199x JDM Import legacy or sum shit i dunno) ECU and it just shot more fuel out the exhaust, but i did shoot like a 4 foot flame somehow
ill try to find my coil pack now that its day
But it still only ran on 2?
Yeah
i unplugged coil wires from pack and those are the only 2 that didnt light up the bulb thingy
If you have a multimeter probe the signal wires and see if they are shorted against the chassis
Okay
what about a fuse? is there a fuse specifically for those 2 cylinders and the other 2 are seperate?
ah nevermind you said it was direct from the ecu
this is the video of me checking it @eternal totem
the bottom one dosent change which the bottom and bottom middle are triggers
but apparently according to this the 12v is making a full circut, is that normal?
Where is the other probe?
grounded to a bracket on the frame
the multimeter dosent work on any other settings, the values dont change on anything but that green section so since whenever it make a circle it changed i used it
im not sure if the trigger wires are supposed to make a circut or not but one of them is obviously fucked
It should work on the voltage section too. Do not use the current measurements unless you have the positive probe set to the current side physically
Here are the diagnostic sections
where the hell do you get this stuff
Eat shit bot
lol
oh okay so the voltage one only works if you get volts from something i guess?
and im just stupid?
You need to have the ignition on
the farther one should be 12v cause the bottom 2 are trigger and the top middle is ground-colored
Pin 2 is 12V, pin 3 is ground and 1 and 4 are signals
hmm ok
well it gace me a 26.6 on the blue/green wire (right middle)
if you ask me that sounds like alot more than 12 volts
I won't explain and hardly know myself. In short AC changes direction, DC flows in one direction
hmm okay so just sont use that side
sorry if im annoying i have now idea how to use this piece of shit
It's how you learn
ig
It read .025 on the 2k/->- setting
for the grounding wire that is
either way these are steps mesnt for complete failure why am i doing this
Pin 1 volts
why is it so wide
Pin 4 volts
thats on 20 setting btw
Yeah they're only going to read voltage when it runs or cranks
yeah thast the directions i followed
or did my best on my own.
both those numbers are coming from ecu so that probably means they need to be replaced?
the coilpack that is
no wait
i dont have whatever tool they want me to use in their picture
bad connection between these
i think
should be above 1 i think
oh eait weong way it is supposed to be like that
and this one is the same way
If the ECU didn't solve the issue and wiring gives expected readings, seems like your coil is toast
yeah, all the wires seem to be fine, ive ran out of things to do
i just dont know how because the only thing thats happend to it since i took it off is a bird shit on it
and i cleaned that up
I just started my car without an ecu connected and i swear it started for a second
aokay i found my other coil pack and its on time to start
hopefully
maybe
probably not
nope dosent start
could just make my own direct wire to the thing if needed
Are those two most recent videos from the plug to the ECU?
those are from plug to ecu yes,
it was connectivity from ecu plug 25/26 to coil plug 1/4
but i think my issue isnt in those wires because my car was sitting still, it has to be in the connection
the ecu plugbecause i think this is the first time my ecu has ever been unplugged so that may have fucked something. or the mid harness from bulkhead>engine maybe have messed up
You sure the plugs and leads are OK?
Its most likely the engine plug because i havent touched the coil one but the ecu i just unplugged and did nothing more to that one
i unplugged but worked around with fire, grease, fire, flames, and ratchets around the other plug
other as in engine
do you knwo if the trigger is on the brown or gray connector?
What trigger?
trigger wire for the coilpack
it comes from the ecu like you said. i thought you might know if the wire it goes to is on the gray connector or brown one on the bulkhead>engine harness
No I don't, I'm not very familiar with NA stuff and even less with USDM
if in doubt ill just get a drill, cut a small hole in the firewall, feed some wire through it, get ecu pinouts and cut the wires for the triggers, and on the coilpack, then just hook them up directly
well in this case its the same as the jdm
only the trans and avcs are different between n/a
and of course the location between lhd and rhd
i hate this stupid country its too complicated, damn California fucking over the countrys horsepower limits from factory and stuff
ill just check my factory service manual
arent the impreza sports n/a?
Very rare
as in they very rarely are n/a or they are rare?
Okay, connector B22 is the trigger wire one, its 16 pin so i think its my brown one. Ill check the ohms for 1 and 4 and then just see which give us current. then chdck the ecu side for 25 and 26 and hopefully its good.
I also figured out it gives me a spark sometimes, like when i cranked the car then stopped it, it sparked once, i dont know if it was a strong spark or weak but it sparked once
okay got diagrams for the most part, now i just need pinouts
I lied i have pinouts
so for some dumbass reason 4 and 3 are swapped?
actually its all fucked
anyways 5 and 6 correspond to the things
so check those pins and if they are okay we a
are okay
3 is ground, 2 is 12v, 4 & 1 is triggers does that sound right @eternal totem because that wasnt exactly what my thing was telling me
my multimeter said the outer ones were triggers
so im a little weary of trusting it if these diagrams or my car is wrong
shit wait i just realised im dumb
nevermind they just do that for simplicity forget what i said
its correct, ill check the plug when i get home
check the plugs and clean them, if that doesnt help cut my own and make a seperate wire to bypass it and if that doesn't work scrap the car
just make a tub of degreaser or something probaly and stir it up quick then go in the holes with pipe cleaner and see what happens
and i have some extra 2 wire connectors i csn cut off my other car if needed to make my own harness.
The outer ones ARE the triggers, the wiring diagram isn't representative of the pin order, it's just for the convenience of the layout
The wiring diagram has the present connectors displayed on the bottom of the page showing the pin order
yep i got thqt now
that was my mistake i was looking at it wrong
okay well i should get it fixed today and get the coolant system flushed, take it on a spirited drive them flush the oil and coolant and refill, check trans level when cold and we shouls be good
trans may be like .7 liters overfilled if in correct, i forgot to grab the 4th to not let it fill up to max so it may be a bit overfilled but we will see
Connectivity between Pin 4 on coilpack and pin 5 on B22
Connectivity between Pin 1 on coilpack and pin 6 on B22
Pretty good numbers, definitely not the issue
okay and checked the system from ecu wires to the coil wires with someone this time, and it shows they run the exact same connection as these pictures, something else is wrong and after swapping out ecus and coilpacks, it still wont solve the problem.
Okay finnaly got a code reader, best case scenario it says "your camshaft position shit itself" worst case, it gives nothing
Okay swapped out camshaft sensor and now no cylinders fire? what the fuck is going on
If i cant fix it today im going to do the unthinkable and send it to a shop, im stumped, i dont know anything else i can do without taking the entire front of the engine apart again and thats not even garunteed nor do i think thats the problem, if anybody has any suggestions please let me know because id rather save my money for the tow truck fuel and the shop price.
Sent it to a shop so they can do that thing and also adjust my parking brake to work, install some electric systems i dont feel like doing (they offered it for cheap) and do a short break in for the headgaskets, tranny, and rear diff.
oh that the defi came in so we will install that if my car isnt gone when i get home, now just where to put it
SHE RUNS
got her home today and she runs like a dream
has some insane, and i mean insane acceleration with the 2.0 heads
like 1k-6k in like .5 seconds
but cai, defi, shift boot, underbody plates, and refresh is up next, but im more or so happy it runs
speedo dosent work though, ill have to look at that
Defi thing works and is installed, that was probably the easiest install ive ever had on the car, mounting was just drill 2 holes into the side of the cluster plastic trim and mount it just where i can still see my fuel gauge, im going to check my speedo with a multimeter this time, and since i know how to use it this time due to those embarrassing 2 hours going on a noob conversation with @eternal totem, we can do this much faster. Just consists of checking for voltage on my yellow wire, checking ground on my black wire, and making sure its sending a signal, either the wiring is backwards and of voltage or ground is on the sensor signal, the sensor is bad, or i messed up the wiring with bad connectivity with my 6 crimps.
new custom exhaust and i got type 2 subaru exhaust over the type 1 i wanted
shit
why did it not send my clip
i need to check discord more
once again ignore my fatass
installed jdm stuff, yes these are depo chinese stuff but this build is on a budget, like no job or income except selling parts build
But car shit itself
I believe its the PCV system becauss my CAI had the side breather hoses hooked up to middle bit and no "breather" abilities. dumb idea i know but even after fixing it car still runs rough so im upgrading to a catch can and hopefully that will help some
For your info car was blowing blue smoke out the exhaust initially. hasnt done that since. and ran fine, had trouble accelerating above 2.5k in 5th though. stopped at a store and it didnt want to start, it started then stopped a second later until i gave ut gas. when i did that it ran but stalled when i let the gas off, i adjusted my throttle and then it started and idles but runs rough and varies form 2k rpm to 200 before it almost stalls out, drove it home and it had no issues. when i stopped it smelled like shit but idled fine at 800 which is what i set it at. Finally when i start it up it has not blown smoke again and sometimes idles fine at 800 with a small shake and chirping out the exhaust, (exhaust valves were fine before i dont know what happend now, no ticking or anything and never heard valves hitting cylinders) then on other occasions it idles with that 2k-200 and no sound except normal comes out the exhaust