#The Blue Turd
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
in the uk, yeah
oh
I've only ever seen two GCs with leather interior here
what models?
GC, 92-00
no shit sherlock
well duh
its okay nevermind, was just wondering if they have the leather RS seats or if they made another leather seat.
as a whole, on the GC chassis, regardless if it was a GL, sport, turbo or import wrx or sti, at all the subaru meets I've been to, I've only seen 2 with a leather interior
and one of them wasn't even original to the car
Good news. The morettes arrived. Bad news, the heatsink on the LED lights is too big to fit. Shocker, I know, who'd have thunk. Need to find more compact ones.
time to get the rotary
Nah, just ordered a different set of lamps with a more rounded arse
you gonna send the other back?
its off ebay, theres no sending back lol
gonna put them for sale on the marketplace
Gonna catch a lot of flak for this... But the Pimpbaru shall live again
Ah the 90's interior
welp, I can't sleep... it's 2 AM and I'm in the garage painting headlight housings.
Also made up the silicone hosing for the valve cover breathers
Very nice. Why no COPs tho, it's easy to do now with the engine on hoist?
Very easy, costs about the same as a new coil for the wasted spark
Fixed my spark issue on high boost
the engine itself and ECU is stock, maybe when I go standalone ECU I'll do the COP conversion, but as it is I see no point in doing it now
Fair
I did it for the spark and also now if my coil fails I can just replace one
Also no leads, only wires
I can make you a wiring diagram if you want at some point, some of the ones on the forums are incorrect

Is that your friend or does the Duraflex guy outsource?
he's my middle man to the duraflex guy
Right. I'm suffering with you, I want to know how much the diff bushes cost so I can order the kit too. Pretty much all but the diff bushes are torn
What grease are you gonna use btw?
just red rubber grease
I was thinking lithium grease
More plastidip arrived so sprayed the front doorcards now too.
Nice
not too happy with the spray lines tbh, but it's still better than the dirty grey
and worse case scenario I'll take apart my old door cards for the blacka nd dark blue inserts on them when I feel like it
I think they might be better than if it was flat
Battery tie down arrived today too. Still waiting for the tray tho
and my headlights have started moving thru the hundred acre wood now
REALLY hoping these will fit the morettes lol
bit of trial and error here since theres no real guide on what aftermarket LED lamps will fit the impreza morette housings lol. If they do fit tho I'll probably order a couple more pairs to have as spares for the next few years
Sadly, yet not unexpectedly, clearcoating turned the chrome paint into crappy diluted grey paint...
Why not just color match it?
Can chrome coat be plastidipped on?
nope
and I got quoted £350 to get them wrapped in chrome which is a big nope from me
Just use aluminium tape 
If it looked good before clear coating the best bet probably is to paint them again and repaint if it goes bad in the future
they are an absolute pain to take apart and put back together tho, and I can see the road salt and headlight washers just destroying the chrome paint within a few weeks of use
yeah the turbo one with the bar in the middle is LSD
no clue
all I know is I spin one side, the other one spins the same direction, so LSD
that's good enough for me
it's the diff you were saying is open
the other diff is buried underneath shit in the back of the garage right now
I went to the garage and put the joints in and spun the other side, the other turns in the opposite direction
Well that's just good, means you have an LSD
Just remember to double check the ratio
if it's viscous, would it still spin in the same direction if the diff is drained of oil?
or would it act as an open diff
Hold on
because mine is completely drained right now
i know the diff and gearbox are off the same v4 uk turbo
but theres nothing marked on the diff casing, and I've just changed the backplate seal and torqued everything down so I don't want to open it up to check for markings inside
Gonna throw this together quickly and see
The old diff looks to be open
Also doesnt sound too healthy lol. Looks like its going to the scrap afterall...
Yeah so the VLSD does spin in the same direction even without fluid
i am scared of open diffs
Fortunately there is MIG
open diff on an awd isn't as painful as open diff on a rwd or fwd in my experience
Yeah, still a worlds difference
This almighty MIG has the power of turned an open diff into a welded.
either way LSD is safer
in my opinion
or better
iirc the 2.5RS diff is an LSD
New antenna for the turd oh yeaaaah
also the new turbo lambda sensor arrived, plug and all, fits like a glove, didn't need to do any wire splicing, yay.
You wouldn't happen to have an outer tie rod laying around would you?
thats the end bit of the steering rack innit?
No the knuckle end
that
Ye
yeah, gimme a min let me go find one
I mainly need the dimensions of the taper as accurately as possible
I cant measure any lower than the rubber and I know the taper continues past that
and I don't really have the tools to accurately measure
Ah, thanks anyway. I'll try to do this off of a pic but if it fails I'll have to tear down one. Luckily I know I have a spare installed in a certain chassis
the best I can do with what I have
Thanks, these do confirm some of my measurements
I started thinking about something like this
I have bought some chrome wrap. Attempts will be made
Best of luck, definitely not the easiest shape to wrap
a hair dryer works just as good if you dont have a heat gun
well, thats one way to get pulled over
lol, i remember once i went to carls jr and i just opened the center cubby and my drink fit perfectly
because of american sizes
these fat fucks
also where did you get that single cupholder upgrade thing for the thing
was it oem or aftermarket?
its a SF forrester center armrest
SF forester too
oh okay
thanks haha
also on your wagon i saw a second lever next to the handbrake, what does that do? we dont have that in america
hi-lo selector for the gearbox
huh okay
thats cool
we probaly have that i just have never seen it
there are no 1st gen shit anywhere her
afaik most euro spec non-turbo wagons came with the range selector gearbox. Useful for slowly climbing up a steep incline or mud/snow, but would grenade if you go over 30mph in the wrong range
They weren’t exactly that low range anyway
But yes a lot of non turbo Imprezas and I believe foresters came with the dual range box
Yay, me headlights have made it into the country.
Boo, it's hermes thats delivering them
pray for my lights
Herpes is probably the worst courier I have had the displeasure of dealing with
wait, you've had the misfortune of dealing with them even over there?
But it’s evri, that’s totally different right /s
I can't recall who delivered it but many of my packages have been transported most of the way by Herpes
sounds like herpes
just need to file down a locator tab thats completely in the wrong place so that it sits flush in the bucket
Wrap has been attempted
attempt successful?
nah, wrinkly, pulled too much on it, ruined the wrap in a few spots, will have to redo
but gives an idea of what i'm going for looks wise
yea
will give it another try tomorrow probably, still have some wrap left. also considering wrapping the spot lights (small inners) with yellow tint film
@round skiff £40. Now thats for the subframe diff bushes, the diff t-bar cradle bushes and powdercoating the vacuum crossover pipe, so lets say out of that it was probably £20 for the diff bushes
That's not bad at all. Unfortunately the guy hasn't answered my email
let me know if you need me to buy them for you and then mail them over
Well I sent the email 9 days ago and he still hasn't answered.
yeah, he takes his time with pretty much everything ngl
Sent another one, I don't think second email after a week is pushing it yet
if you need me to I can happily go thru my channels to get you a full set, but I can't make any promises in terms of how long it will take him to make them, I mean you saw how long I waited just for these 4 bushes lol... I asked for them in late november
He has very reasonable shipping costs which is why I'd rather go through it with him, but if for some reason you can send them over for cheap I'd be thankful
Dude answered in 5 minutes to the 2nd emailk
i have absolutely no clue how much it would cost to ship. It's not a big package and it's not heavy so I'd guess it wouldn't be too much but I really wouldn't know till I walk into the post office with the package to ship it
nice
There aren't online prices for those?
for the 2 diff-stud ones, no, I don't think he offers them commercially yet
I mean postal packages
give me a post code
90100
just generic post code for oulu
I'm gussing the weight here but looks to be between £13 and £20 for the shipping
Would be about the same for here to UK
Only just now realised those diff bushes are 3D printed. Anyway they're all in and the diff t-bar cradle is finally on, which means we can now finally get the car back onto quickjacks and start assembling everything
What hardness did you get?
Also had to do this for the brake booster vac line... Something tells me I should just get a different booster, but we'll see how the brakes feel like this and if they're all wonky I'll source one with the spout on the other side later on...
Honestly I'm quite surprised turbo subarus don't use a vac pump... wonder if it would be better if I retrofitted one instead.
is that crappy plastic 3d prints?
they didnt do shit to make that smooth
i can see support material bro
it's polyurethane filament, it's not plastic. doesn't really matter if it's smooth or not, smoothness is all just for looks
they're ever so slightly oversized so the surface gaps there got compressed shut when squeezed into their place, and gives a good place for the grease to go into and stay there for lubrication instead of it all just seeping out when you push them in
friend of a friend of a friend just bought a donor car for £1000... GC8 turbo.... aaaaand it's got a 6-speed in it....
I mean just the gearbox alone is worth £2000+
decided to change the plastic elbows I put on the vacuum hosing and the breather hosing with brass ones because a few of them are a bit too close to the turbo for my comfort. Sadly I'll be gone for work all next month so I won't be home when the packages arrive to install them. booooo.
Mocked up the front end
should look even better once I wrap the housings proper chrome and the gaps are proper because in that picture nothing is bolted down. also the bumper turn signals will be clear, managed to get a pair of clear ones all the way from the US
Looking nice!
Shiny heatshields and janky brake vacuum plumbing
I'll probably cave and source the correct brake booster at some point that has the nozzle on the correct side
And that point will be when I go to bleed the brakes and nothing is working
#goals once the car is done https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=v3xrww_6t6I
pile the boys into the car, go into town for a late night kebab, blasting music and being chavs
let me join
Screw it, i'll do it right now
Yeah...
I mean it'll probably work... Probably... Just... Jank tho
its that extra insurance though knowing its probably more tested
I have bought a Shooting Cars -spec Big Friggin Bottle. Should fit in the armrest lid cupholder tho. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ebbww3vxBp8
if the rum bottle fit, this should too
Tried to get a few insurance quotes.... Same old story...
Can't insure car with mods because insurance company requires car to have been insured with the mods for a year before they will give insurance, but can't get insurance because car has mods and it hasn't been insured with the mods for a year because insurance company requires car to have been insured with the mods for a year before they will give insurance, but can't get insurance because car has mods and it hasn't been insured with the mods for a year because insurance company requires car to have been insured with the mods for a year before they will give insurance, but can't get insurance because car has mods and it hasn't been insured with the mods for a year because insurance company requires car to have been insured with the mods for a year before they will give insurance, but can't get insurance because car has mods and it hasn't been insured with the mods for a year because insurance company requires car to have been insured with the mods for a year before they will give insurance, but can't get insurance because car has mods and it hasn't been insured with the mods for a year because insurance company requires car to have been insured with the mods for a year before they will give insurance, but can't get insurance because car has mods and it hasn't been insured with the mods for a year because insurance company requires car to have been insured with the mods for a year before they will give insurance, but can't get insurance because car has mods and it hasn't been insured with the mods for a year because... see where I'm going with this? Fucking hate the UK car insurance scam system....
Plan B
Tax Fraud
Who have you tried insurance wise? Adrian flux are sometimes slightly more expensive but will often insure any legal mods
just trying to get mock quotes right now since the car is not done yet. was trying out an insurer a youtuber I watch shilled
The RCM 5 Speed Lightweight Flywheel is a single piece steel billet assembly weighing just 5.1Kgs. This represents a saving of over 5Kgs over the standard OEM unit! Designed for all 5 speed Imprezas utilising a pull type clutch, this product has been manufactured to the highest standards. RCM flywheels are finished i
Just be careful, I believe people have run into issues with lightened flywheels
On boxers especially
true... but my existing flywheel is all shades of fucked by rust... I'd really prefer getting a new one rather than wirebrushing the rust off the old one
might just get the stock one ICP sells.. https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=11642&cat=0&sub=0&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=flywheel&searchPart=
Subaru Impreza Turbo 92-00 Standard Flywheel & Bolts
but they do also sell a lightened one tooo.... fuuuuuuug https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=14391&cat=0&sub=0&sec=0&var=0&dc=&gen=&searchKey=flywheel&searchPart=
Subaru Impreza Turbo 230mm 5 Speed Pull Competition Clutch Lightweight Flywheel 6.1KG
I used some polish and some wire brushes and it made it look better
just kidding i didnt actually do that
Ive only heard issues with lightweight cranks though, i dont really understand how it harms the motor though.
I was so close to buying these... but sadly they're already sold and gonna get picked up tomorrow. Never knew they did a red leather interior for the classic...
hnnnnnnngh want one of these so bad
ho boy here I go buyin shite again
How are you getting parts so easy, I’m on an undated back order for h6 clutch and flywheel parts 😢
theres your problem right there 
still need to find somewhere to get the other throttle body coolant hose, 807907272, without having to pay £30 shipping + vat + import from japan
those throttle body hoses are pretty much unobtanium now. they're discontinued and nobody is making aftermarket ones
I wish i could get hoses, all of mine are original 23 year olds
Best time to swap the hoses is when you do the engine swap, and go for silicone ones wherever you can since those will probably outlast the car. Samco and mishimoto are the big name brands that also sell in the US, or you can get various unbranded ones from china
yeah, dont go for that bullshit ass "genuine" markup
god i fucking hate that so much
a fucking rollpin is 20 dollars
oooof can't wait for my new flywheel
we gonna try and shift the car from jackstands to quickjacks tomorrow so it's a bit more secure for manhandling the gearbox in
Installing the trans with jackstands? Pain. At least you don't have the 6MT, that was horrible even with a lifter
Nice manifold
And I'm missing the two front trans subframe mounting bolts 20540FC110
Anyone know what size and pitch they are?
Goodies yay
the 6mt are bulky as hell, plus all those dccd wires are awkward to reach from what ive heard
also is that a lw flywheel
yeah boi
6.1kg, so not the lightest (RCM ones are 5.1kg iirc) but should be a good compromise in terms of actually still being daily drivable
£260-ish for the flywheel
okay nevermind
lol
i guess ill throw that on my track project that i got
in like 5 years
are you doing a front lsd
No
Gearbox is a mystery box, fully expendable, not spending money on it
Far as we got today before remembering we dont have anything to actually connect the engine to the lifter... D'oh
garages in the UK were built to house a classic mini and nothing more
Yeah IK I have one, it barely fits the trans tunnel when the engine is installed. Luckily I don't have the DCCD wires to deal with
ordered an engine crane leveller hoist load strap chain thing
should arrive sometime this week
Rear subframe - on
ah yes, I've also pressed the pilot bearing into the flywheel today
PROGRESS
how did you get a new fuel tank? or is that just restored really well
was is like a one in a lifetime thing? or can i find one?
you can probably find one, I've definitely seen them for sale in the US as well
i know some people in the uk ill just steal your guy's parts cause they're cheaper
itll probably cost you the price difference in shipping and import charges tho since its a big heavy basterd
probaly
How much? Autodoc has the 60L for 314€
£219.95, also 60L
Not bad at all
Hmmm think its time for a new rear main seal
Heard using woodscrews is an easy enough way to get the RMS out
It's just rust prevention
Also I wish I could find a V5-V6 engine and ECU harness somewhere
Rhd theres plenty being broken in the UK, but LHD its a unicorn, not many sold, not many about, not many being scrapped for parts
Reason why LHD ones are about 2-3 times more expensive than the RHD ones
I've come to the conclusion I'm just gonna have to modify my RHD harness into a LHD harness when I do the conversion
I wouldn't mind even building the entire harness but sourcing the connectors would be insanely expensive and difficult
send it to iwire, they are working on making my harness an ej22g/ej20g w/ avcs harness
Would be cheaper to directly order a new harness from them. Doing business with the US as a private customer is insanely expensive
Trans cradle finally on. God that was a pain to get the bolts to line up
ha doing business with us
as in us the usa
sorry bad joke
put them both in at the same time
did you put the dogbone in?
ah yeah
the connection of the trans to the firewall
yeah it's on
them 2
trial and error
because those are the only ones I could find M12x1.25 x 35 with a flanged head
the rear ones are normal zinced tho
do you directly look up the bolt dimensions or just what it fits on?
take dimensions of what was on the car already, or use amayama for stuff thats missing to find the part numbers and then find on ebay https://www.amayama.com/en/catalogs/subaru/impreza-wrx/1-sedan-right-gc-1996-r-1973
Online catalog for Subaru Impreza WRX GC, 1 generation, restyling 09.1996 - 07.2000 OEM spare parts. Buy online. Wholesale prices, proven reliability, fast shipping from Japan
okay thanks
also I cheated a bit by buying this https://www.importcarparts.co.uk/parts-info?id=14592&cat=96&sub=97&sec=143&var=38&dc=0&gen=&searchKey=&searchPart=
Subaru Impreza 92-00 Full Suspension Bolt Kit
oh hell yeah
that is exactly what i was looking for since half of mine i overtorqued
they usually put the kit together on request so your best bet would be to give them a call on monday or an e-mail
nice thanks so much man
this these are the right torque specs for the flywheel?
Two different years say yes
and red loctite on the threads iirc
Neither manual say that but it wouldn't hurt
I'm just mildly afraid of the spinny disk of death making itself loose
8 bolts torq specced isn't going nowhere
remove it then it wont be a problem ;)
Diff - on
Hmmm. Pretty sure rear subframe bolts shouldn't look like that...
You know... I think this new torque wrench might be bad... Fml
no thats design
because according to this equation 8.5567=10.75-158.34*y+2112.07*y^2-12211.07*y^3-29.44*x+2185.91*x*y-35690.08*x*y^2+187137.42*x*y^3+129.16*x^2-9697.93*x^2*y+173834.73*x^2*y^2-935832.82*x^2*y^3-174.03*x^3+13191.71*x^3*y-245488.55*x^3*y^2+1384550.57*x^3*y^3 it shows that the bolt is designed like that
and according to this P(Y-X=m | Y > X) &= \sum_{k} P(Y-X=m, X=k | Y > X) \&= \sum_{k} P(Y-X=m | X=k, Y > X) P(X=k | Y > X) \&= \sum_{k} P(Y-k=m | Y > k) P(X=k | Y > X).\end{align*}$$ you have no bitches
You know what you do have? A car that loves you as its significant other.
I'm halfway tempted to love it all the way to the scrapyard right now
Well it can join my outback sport
we could trade if you want a project with more potential :)
So, snapped bolt is out - Yay
But the powdercoating on the cradles has been chipped so I'll need to get it recoated - Boo
But I've found the correct bolts, and they should arrive tomorrow - Yay
But powdercoating is gonna take longer so I won't be able to put them on - Boo
But at least I've got the correct brake booster in now - Yay
I probaly need a new booster, my brakes are spongy even though theyve been bled
also how does it feel to work with gloves
is it hard or anything
also how much did this cost, its apparently out of stock and i just want an estimate on how much its gonna cost
wiat shit
wrong picture
this is what i meany
you get way less feeling with gloves, especially the thick rubber ones I use (the nitrile or latex ones you see on TV are absolutely useless and will get punctured and cut by the tiniest thing) but I mainly only wear gloves when dealing with more brute force stuff
yeah i used some latex ones and they got shreded by my impact
absolutely burnt the hell out of my hand with that friction
it costs £274, you need to call them or email them to have them piece the kit together, it's stocked by request
- whatever the shipping to the states will be and any import charges
it's not a big box, but its a heavy box
i only know that because the rear spats i ordered are the same price plus 50 bucks shipping
oh yeah i can imagine it is
its probaly like 150 shipping
box mine came in was only about the size of 2 shoe boxes
no clue lol
well alright
im gonna assume like 50 nad thats about 70 shipping, but i dont know how yours works
we go by size or weight, which ever is the biggest
like a 1m x 1m x 1m box should weight 100 kilos, whichever number is the biggest is what they use that scale for
well thats not as heavy as i thought, it shouldnt be to much then
definitely not more than 10
i lift shit every day so heavy to me is about 70 kilos, or a quater of the average weight of an American
have a good look over ICPs website, they've got a lot of good stuff for good prices there, if you're gonna get them to put a package to send over might as well add a few other things in there
yeah, i usualky use import image racing for my foreign deals
but if i can find cheaper prices on stuff anywhere else ill snag it
do you suddenly smell gasoline every time you just think about your car or is that only me?
I smell the smell the interior has. It's got that 90's japanese car smell. It still smells like that even tho 95% of the interior is currently in my living room
my interior just smells like cherry nlossoms from where i use stuff like that on everything
i need to order somw zealous carpets and stuff because i need new carpet
anyways you got any full engine bay pics of it in its current state?
your car i mean
yeah i know
welp, time to order fluids
wait you need atf?
thats for the power steering pump
oh i had no idea i could use atf
i guess i can use that for a flush since i got 5.6 liters of it with my trans kit and only used 2
Oh no, someomes done an oopsie (not me)
New rear main seal is in, but call it a hunch, I think it'll leak given that whoever did the main seal before me marred the mating surface...
weld a stud then grind and resurface
you should hot tank your block
or atleast pressure wash it with some degreaser
I did.... Used at least a gallon of degreaser and about 4 cans of brake clean. It's a mystery motor, will probably swap it out for a more known one thats fully rebuilt in a couple years. Don't really even know if the bottom end is good on this motor. was cheap.
would need to take it to a machine shop and invest way more money than the engine is worth for that
so you got a motor and didnt even try to rebuild it?
and just get one of those drill attachments that work almost mever and pray
I literally need to get the car running and out of the garage in the next couple of months. I don't have the time or the money for a full engine rebuild. I'm already 12k in debt from this swap, if it runs it runs, if it doesn't, at least it'll be in one piece and I can get it towed somewhere I don't have to pay rent anymore
engines had new headgaskets and the heads skimmed by the guy I bought it off, and I've refurbed everything that goes onto it (because I can just switch them over to another longblock later on) but not opened up the block itself. Same with the gearbox and diff. I've changed seals and polybushed the linkage and added a shortshift kit, but the gearbox itself is untouched. My focus is getting everything ELSE on the car right to be a good base for a properly rebuilt engine and gearbox later on. The mystery engine and box going into it right now are very much of the "run them till they blow and then replace" variety
Wired up the boost solenoid, map sensor, and checked if I have the correct plug for the mystery maf sensore (i do, yay), hooked up the power steering hoses to the rack, also test fitted the H-brace and finished making the brake pipes (not my prettiest work, but should be fine)
nice
May have gone a bit overboard with the lanoguard grease on the more rust prone areas
It smells like sheep now...
Lol that’s a lot of grease, why not that air exposure anti rust oil stuff?
Or just had this on hand?
it's lanoguard. it comes in 2 forms, oily that you spray on and have to reapply every 6 months or so, and a heavy duty grease that you put on the more rust prone areas you want that lil bit of extra protection on. The whole rest of the car will be getting sprayed down with the oil once it's assembled, but had to put the grease on now before I start putting suspension bits on that'll get in the way of brushing it on
it'll be slightly less visible once it cures
in other news I found out I've got one too many dowel pins, so I need to find someone with a dowel pin extractor kit to pull one of them out
Ahh I see that’s fair enough, yeah I was going to say that would be awful to see all the time if it stayed like that
POV: Prepping my install instructions for tomorrow. Amayama doesn't really work on my phone, so I have to highlight and screenshot every single nut and bolt for its part number like this
so tomorrow I can just sit down, open my discord, and scroll thru my list as I install the shite
it's the amayama website I sent you a couple days ago lol
yeah i just realised
i actually have this thing called cc1
its for mechanic shops and it has EVERYTHING, i can even order parts that are unavailable new at the dealer from the dealer
Janky brake servo vacuum piping - no more!
Also the little clutch return spring bracket has arrived from japan
And I've sorted the rear suspension bolts for install, but I've got adjustable trailing arms so I need to figure out what length I'm supposed to set them to
Also the grease has cured now, should blend in better once the spray layer is applied after the car is assembled
Those are some nice looking vacuum lines. I just ordered some bulk silicone hose for vacuum and water hose replacements, we'll see how that goes.
Need to wait for my disks and pads and handbrake shoes to arrive before I can finish the rear end
Rear strut brace is in. Absolute pain to get it in it was, especially on the side with wiring
I saw some guy use a spray gun with white protection stuff in it
it worked good with no effort
rear seat belt tensioners have been reinstalled. they were a pain
it would probably have been easier if I removed the C-pillar trim and rear window deck
but I didn't
also got a used OE trailing arm from Gaz that I measured up and set the length of the adjustable arms to
also greased up the pins for the rear calipers, and got them ready to go onto the car
gonna be getting a 4-wheel alignment done when it goes for it's inspection, but I still need to drive it to the shop when I do, and having both wheels roughly in the same place is a good start lol.
lucky basterd
move here and be my friend 
oh I've tried moving to the US many times... got family in TX, sadly they're not closely related enough to get a family visa, and unless you're a refugee or really rich, kinda SOL on getting a greencard...
I feel like that’s more lucky than SOL personally lol
yeah
but it dosent cover shit
the one on my obs goes the entire length, from the gas tank to the top bit
but ia that the entire thing for yours?
yeah
no
might just be the outback sport exclusive stuff since allegedly it's meant to be more offroady
so extra protection
but normal imprezas and WRXs don't have that
got a pic?
even off google is ok
because i think i ight have it but you call it a different name than what we call it here
is it this?
I have that too but it doesn't cover the diff
yeah we call that the prop cover here
because it covers the prop where it meets the diff
I couldn't remember if it went over or under
oh man I'm so excited, might finish putting the suspension together tomorrow and build up the handbrake mechanism (if I can find my needlenose pliers). And my trans cradle should be back from powdercoating and brake pads and disks should arrive this weekend so then I can finally try and drop the engine in
Nice. I should be getting my parts tomorrow so I should be able to start assembly too
Oh you were talking about the diff cover, its not on my rs, it was on my obs but they also offered it as an option for the facelift models in the bochure
rear diff protect
yeah that looks more like a dealership special than something factory
eh i dont know
i'm not seeing anything like it anywhere on amayama either
I would very much like those fog lights for my GL bumper tho...
and that hood deflector for extra brownie points
Friends have these foglight protectors on the project they're building. Australian market, NOS, next to unobtanium now, found a set for sale was like £400 or something stupid like that
there are a lot of other goodies
thats the 2001 usdm
they have alot of things i want, but theres also a uk300 special or something for 2001 too
heres all the brochures https://www.subaru-impreza.org/impreza-brochures.shtml
Subaru Impreza Brochures for a great number of Impreza, 1998, 1999, 2000, 2001, 2002, 2003, 2004, 2005, 2006, 2007, 2008
oh, them 2.
or that
altho tbf I'd be more after the pod itself rather than the gauges, because (afaik) it's 1-DIN sized, so I could stick a radio in there
but at the same time, I made my own, so don't really need it
I have the pod, it's been trimmed a little to fit 52mm gauges
also mines carbo fiba
How'd you do that?
it originally had 3 holes for 52mm gauges
for LHD
so I got it on sale for £50
and butchered it to have a single DIN hole
Right, I was wondering how you pulled that off
We could've traded
I'll probably have the pod flocked along with the dash so it'd be waste of the carbon anyways
I'm actually not that big on carbon fiber myself. I like the weight saving and rust-proof aspect of it, but absolutely detest the look of bare carbon (at least on the outside of the car). If I ever get something like a carbon wing, or bonnet or whatever, shits getting painted to match the rest of the car
I like the look too, but hate fake carbon. Which happens to be what my gauge plate is made of
yeah
i like the cluster
on the euro forester turbos they have turbo pressure, oil pressure, and something else
its kinda cool and i kinda want it
Find a friend with a laser cutter or a plotter and get some recreated?
Yeah will be doing when I vin swap it to a WRX erm... Reshell.
I actually have that WRC badge as 1997
Oh my. I might have found something relatively unobtanium. Not to everyones taste, but definitely up my alley. Waiting to hear back from the supplier if they actually still have it.
Don’t tease us like this without following through
well i eam you can get the stickers off ebay
or just copy it and send it to a sticker company like car-stickers and get them to make it for you
The heckblende is discontinued. Sadge.
welp, i've fucked up the flywheel
for some reason it didn't come with the dowel pins pre-installed, and left to my devices, I've fucked up the dowel holes so badly, I've had to order another flywheel
thats not good
£280 down the fucking drain
What about having the holes drilled again and having custom dowels machined?
that would literally cost more than getting the new flywheel
precision machining is expensive
well, not MORE, but enough to where it's not really worth the extra hassle
also I've already ordered the new flywheel so what ifs will be just that, what ifs
also I may have gone a bit mongo with my mallet and may have..... uhhh... "unbalanced" the flywheel in my attempt to get the dowel pins in
Those are what you line up your clutch plate with
oh
i use bolts for that
ill buy your old flywheel from you @drifting forge
150€
is thats the pound sign i have no idea
thats euros isnt it
Bruh that's euro
lol
Looks solid, what did you do?
Is that some kind of dual flywheel for 230 and 240 discs?
yeah
Interesting
now I need to try and cancel the one I ordered out of panic friday night
14 days
yeah but it's easier if they can cancel it before they ship it out
Yeah. Is that from Scoobyworld or?
ICP. sent them an email, need to call them monday morning at 9
Holy shit why is the STI clutch so much more expensive?
because STI
yeah, will probably go for a stage 1 organic clutch next clutch change too
i just picked up the trans cradle from the powdercoaters today, so I need to stick that back on and torque everything down, then once I get the flywheel and clutch on... (AGAIN) I can finally attempt to get the engine in
1 year 8 months or so
really want to get it running and back on the road before the end of the month
oh
oh my
Cheap as dirt
If only I had 4k to spare...
We saved it lads. Now to wake up early tomorrow to call up ICP and cancel the new one I ordered before it ships
So much shiny
Maybe auto flywheel is different because of the torque converter
also i have an auto, but they are called torque converters
im talking about my manual flywheel for my swap, it aint got that.
and lastly is that a v5/v6 intercooler painted or is that aftermarket?
Chinky ebay aftermarket big top mount... That I'm now struggling to close the bonnet with
yeah
@round skiff any chance you have this random beige plug in your engine bay by the battery and fusebox? I'm absolutely confused what it's meant to connect to. I don't think it's the horn because those are decidedly dodgier wires extended by the harness' previous owner to run hotboy hella horns in the grille
Don't have the chassis at home but if I had to guess it's the headlight washer pump connector
but.... me pumps are connected.... I think
time to go find my flashlight and check
Not pumps, they're both connectes
Connected
Could it be spare for the wagon rear pump?
Oh good point, didn't think of that... For some reason thought the wagon had the rear on a separate pump and bottle in the back like the jdm rear wiper saloons do
The molding clearly has a spot for another pump
Yeah looks to be rear wagon pump plug. Its the same color as the plug too
that is the other one
for the sti imports and wagons
there should be another pump there if its for a wagon or sti
yeah, figured that out lol
saloons/coupes with rear wipers use a separate pump and bottle behind the right side tail light tho
it's weird
but I guess the easy way to rig my rear wiper to actually work and was would be to get the wagon main washer bottle with the extra pump and just run a hose to the back from there
oh i guess its wagons only then
i dont know i have a usdm car so i dont know
you guys got much cooler cars than us, we got the l, obs, brighton, rs, and base model
you got more 2-door coupes than we did, even if they were non-turbo... easier to swap a turbo engine in than to turn a 4-door into a 2-door
yeah
all the bitches in cali stole our shit, east coast cept ny and nj didnt get shit.
you can find them everywhere is cali, usually fully swapped already
i keep hoping my uncle can find me a rust-free texas car 2-door coupe one day to send me for the shell
but down there you find nothing but TRUUGGZ
and maybe the odd corvette
I would like a full-on malaise C3 ragtop tho. 5.7L with like 140hp of lethargy, but they look cool and sound cooler when they''ve got sidepipes
Even tho coupe looks a lot better, I've realized I wouldn't want one. Doing anything rear seat area related would be pain. And considering the fuel pump is there and a lot of other things like when we had to make like harness mounts it would've been near impossible to install in a coupe.
Oh you're going with NA bumper
i've got a v5/v6 wrx bumper, but the laquer peel on it upsets me
also I need to find a nice lip for it
so for now it'll be rocking the GL bumper, with clear turnsignals I had to get all the way from 'murica, and a renault laguna lip
With the clear lights and that lip it looks really good. You should weld the seam in the middle with a soldering iron tho.
i know, but I don't want to paint it tho, and i think a welding seam would look worse than just the zipties
What's wrong with a bit of paint?
the spats are unpainted, the sideskirts are unpainted, I want the lip to be unpainted so it matches too
Unpainted, painted black/dark grey, what's the difference
the grain
unpainted ones are textured, painted ones are smooth
if I plasticweld the seam, there would be a break in the grain and would annoy me more than the zip ties
Right
If it wasn't for the zip tie holes it might've been possible to weld it only from behind but the holes are there
We welded the front bumper at is was cracked in multiple places
As it turns out my little brother is mad with a soldering iron and some plastic
anyway, did the gearbox oil today. finished off the vacuum lines, connected all the electrics (i hope).
tomorrow my oil filter socket should arrive and a large syringe so I can do the the engine oil and the diff oil.
also need to go pick up some exhaust hanger rubbers from the dealership,
hopefully the front driveshaft roll pins also arrive tomorrow, and the T-bolt clips I need for the engine bay fuel lines
Mmmmmm rädíatør
I am debating getting japanese sized reg plates, but they only come in flat plastic or shitty glued on letters, I've yet to find anyone that makes road legal pressed steel import sized plates.
my lip is a v5/v6 sti front lip
if thats the bumper youre talking aboitz its a v5/v6 sti bumper.
Yep, got one of those on my watchlist on ebay
At least in Finland you can get a fiberglass one for 230€
The lip that is. That bumper came on all trim levels except the base spec GL here in the UK
Ah
230 for just the lip?
No, the bumper
What a ripoff, literally just scrolled past one for sale on FB for £60
A new fiberglass bumper?
Right, I'm talking new aftermarket
Why get a fiberglass one when you can get a genuine one? Fiberglass is way more fragile than the OE plastic and the weight differences are negligeable. And itll take about as much fettling to get an aftermarket one to fit right as it would to get the age marks sorted on an original bumper
Availability, mostly. There aren't too many bumpers floating around
I've got a thicc package arriving tomorrow, just in time for the car going back on the road and fest season starting
I can buy those bumpers brand new here
Order them front the dealer, as well as bumper supports
Need to figure out how to actually mount this
Ooooooh louvres slap
Did you manage to cancel the flywheel order? Ours is cracked
Does this have a step or does the light just reflect oddly?
theres no step I could feel, but it does have the 2 circles of slightly shinier finish
and good news. I got the bulbs the right way around... at least for the background lights
@round skiff what does your fuel pump wiring look like? Specifically where the 2nd fuel level sender wiring connects to the main fuel pump and fuel sender plug
The original NA parts still on the car can be counted with one hand and the fuel tank is one of them
just noticed my fuel gauge shows almost half full... on a 60L fuel tank with 10L of petrol in it... so I'll most probably need to actually wire in the secondary fuel level sensor to get it working right. But because my rear wiring is non turbo with a 40L tank it doesn't ahve the plug for the second level sensor
ah
fair enough then
need to hunt down someone with a 60L tank
thing is the extra plug actually came with the donor tank, with a length of wire on it cut from the harness of whatever car it came off, so I literally just need to figure out where to splice it into my wiring
OK not exactly half but close
I guess you need the 60L tank wiring with the tank
Or at least the pump units and then fabricate a harness for them
i have the plug and wire for the sub fuel meter, it's just not attached to my wiring, so I need to figure out which wires to attach it to
the main plug was the same between them, and i know the sub plug splices into the main plug, but don't know where
Don't trust the pins, this is from an early -98 so it might not be correct
as far as I know they didn't change the tanks, pumps and fuel level sensors between the versions, so should be the same
Better one, here you can see the pin positioning if it helps
@round skiff did you have to change wires around on your fuel pump to use the non turbo pump, tank and rear wiring with the turbo engine and dash loom?
or did you literally just plug it all straight and it worked?
you have a usdm cluster?
?
it shows mph
yes. because i'm in the UK
they use mph?
yeah UK uses miles
ETS is made by people who don't live in the UK
UK uses miles, feet and yards for car distances
but metric for all other measurements
and uses liters, but counts car mileage in MPG
and a UK gallon is different than a US gallon, so a UK MPG is different than US MPG
and uses grams and kilograms for weight, except when you're weighing a person, then it uses a "stone". nobody actually knows what a stone is, but they use it
it's an undecided mishmash of measurement units.
@prime saddle don't know why, but I think you'd appreciate my housemates mx5
hmm
i have no idea who that is but i do appreciate it
one of my friends has a blue archive shiroko wrapped gc8, I wanted to do something similar with a time attack coupe, except with azusa
hes in gatlinburg though
I have the turbo rear harness and NA fuel pump unit which at the time I swapped the turbo pump into. And I might've repinned a connector because as you can see in the diagram, the R58 plug has different pins in the turbo and NA. You probably have to change the pins in that.
Hmmm, the fuel pump did prime when I turned the key to accessory tho
Yeah but it's the sensor wires that are different
As you can see here it doesn't differentiate between NA and turbo in the fuel pump part
Oh god its like the monolith
Did you order a new car in the mail?
i remember when i found a full ej20g closed deck front clip i wanted to buy, all the wiring and stuff plus it was lhd, but it was 2k and i didnt have 2k
hmm
Cheers, shes almost there
Shits massive lol.
opens a bit tilted to the right, might be because of how it's been stored, not particularly bothered by it tho
I’m sure with use it’ll straighten out anyway
need to find a trim piece to put where that one is missing, and need to drill out all the rivets to take off the canvas bit to take it to an alterations shop to get the zippers replaced and get it drycleaned to get some stains out
Guess what i forgot to tighten
Turbo oil feed banjo... The one at the back of the cylinder head... Beneath the turbo and between the up pipe and block. Literally the worst thing to access while the engine is in the car
Gutted, I hope you manage to luck out and tighten it
but hey, at least once we realised the crank position sensor wasn't connected it only took 3 turns and she started right up. that there on video is the first start in 2 years
on a car that was a bare shell basically 5 weeks ago
so, sitrep:
Found the oil leak cause, turbo oil feed hose was loose on the turbo side because I forgot to tighten it when I took off the oil temp sensor, and had a good gap on the engine side, that I genuinely didn't know of because the shitty crappy ebay mamba hose kit, was fouling on the cylinder head casting, and because it was hidden under the shorter outer up-pipe bracket (which has now been removed and will not be getting reinstalled to make my life easier), what I thought was me tightening the banjo bolt, was actually the banjo fitting clashing with the casting and being at an angle and leaving about a mm gap for oil to leak thru.
so, mamba braided hoses into the bin.
went and found an OE oil feed pipe, turns out that clashes with the china TD05's compressor housing AND the wastegate actuator body and bracket, so the OE pipe is going back to my friends' parts bin because they're discontinued.
so ordered the ICP/fuji racing braided steel flexi oil feed hose now, hopefully that will solve the clearence issues and fit well. also ordered some more oil and coolant to replenish what I have lost. Everything will probably arrive tuesday/wednesday, so fingers crossed I'll be able to actually have the car running for longer than 4 seconds by the end of the week.
On the good side of things tho...
-car started after turning over 3 times on the first try.... after we realized we didn't connect the cam position sensor, but still I call it a win
-LED turnsignals aren't hyperflashing, and the reverse-light-turned-rear-fog-light also works. I've yet to wire in the headlights
-found a turbo fuel tank harness at a breaker, so once that arrives hopefully I can just swap out the bit of harness from where it attached to the body loom under the rear seat and have a fully functional fuel gauge
ah also, I've discovered my central locking doesn't work anymore (when I put the key in the drivers door to lock, it doesn't lock all doors anymore), could be 2 causes:
- I'm missing the keyless entry module little black box from under the dash, sadly the non-turbo one I had had a different plug so I had to order one on eBay (pictured)
and/or - The front door plugs (haven't checked the rear doors) on the new (turbo) dash harness are missing a couple wires that my old non-turbo dash harness had, the ones circled here
I have made the car heavier
+0.2s 0-100
make that +0.4s, still need to do the doors and the trunk
Just cage it, reduces sound a ton ;)
i like having back seats for the friends I don't have tho
We noticed with some structural sacrifices you could actually have a full 6 point cage and retain rear seats
I can't recall if it was the cage maker or the mod inspector who told me he had actually done/seen that in a street drift car
i have zero interest in ever putting a cage in a car, unless I can hide it in the actual body structure so I don't have the ever see the bloody eyesores
But racecar
But if you put a Subaru in a race you’d be overtaken by a tortoise after all the oil escaped to the ground
My oil has already all escaped to the ground, I have nothing to lose! Except my hearing, I've lost most of that a long time ago, so extra sound deadening should help protect whatever is left from the exhaust drone
If you don’t have an exhaust you can’t have a loud exhaust!
I'm actually about to go pop into my local exhaust shop to see if they can modify my midpipe to add a flex joint and a 3" flange to fit my downpipe lol
Oil leak is fixed, car runs, but idles very high at 2500-3000rpm
Vacuum leak?
Not that I can see...
Throttle cable too tight?
No, throttles at closed position...
In that case the only logical option is to go standalone to see all sensor values
Thats a bit out of budget right now...
Did this just occur or has it been like that since the first start?
First start
Is there something different in the intake that would change the flow?
Was the TPS sensor turned up way too high. Turned it down to its minimum setting and it cold starts at 1500rpm, which is much more normal now
same bro
mine uses vbands, and i want mine resonated
Need to figure out how to make the CEL go away. Code 0031, o2 sensor is not happy, even tho its brand new...
OEM?
Bosch
Could it be so nitpicky even Bosch doesn't cut it? Unless you have a wiring issue
I'm hoping its being nitpicky
The sensor is new, the plug on the loom even tho a bit tatty, looks alright
Shit I think mine are in the trunk, can't check the manufacturer
Ii think denso is subaru oe
I think so too but not sure
Need to make sure I have the correct part number tho
Because denso ones are expensive if I order one
I've run with both NA and turbo sensors without issue
Hmm I can try my old NA sensor if I find it, I know that one was OK and not giving a CEL
I wonder if the LSU4.9 narrowband channel works with OEM Subaru
I replaced mine aswell, apparently its either an exhaust leak before o2 sensor 1, or it needs a tune for aftermarket headers.
I had non-turbo UEL headers one before the swap and my old sensor didn't give any issues
possible overdose of fuel, i dunno
Can't get the old flasher relay off? Fuck it, just ziptie the new one to it.
Works tho
LHD swapping it is later down the line
for now I just want it running and back on the road
fair enough
That is going to be a whole ordeal. Rebuilding the entire front
But if you pull it off, mad respect
i'll either find a decent LHD non-turbo shell to... ehem... re-shell the car into, or pay a company that specialises in LHD conversions (there are a few in romania) to turn this shell LHD
How are you going to reshell it into LHD? Careful welding and patching around particular part of the firewall?
if I get a LHD shell, I'll just pull everything off this car and put it in the LHD one, using the LHD steering rack and interior. wiring will need to be modified from the existing one. Converting the RHD shell into a LHD shell is yeah, cutting off the firewall and wiper mount area and welding in the LHD firewall and wiper mounts off a LHD donor car, and again, using the LHD steering rack and interior
about as much work either way, all depends on:
- if the LHD donor car is a better shell in terms or rust and repairs
- what would be easier to register
some friends are loooking at buying a donor japanese import wrx here that has absolutely dissolved of rust so they can get the parts for one of their cars, and if they do, I'm pencilled in for... ehem... paperwork...
so that would solve some of my initial import woes into romania, i.e. more likely to be able to register a WRX than a sport-converted-to-turbo
still leaves the RHD issue, hopefully that can be solved by exporting it to my sister in the netherlands first, and then into romania so that it comes from another EU member state instead of a country outside the EU, sort of a loophole in the stupidity of the laws in romania, but there's a 50/50 chance that with a bribe I can get it registered in RHD guise at least
and then later on once that bridge is crossed I can attempt the LHD conversion
Well if you want a legit turbo LHD you know where to look
bit far away tho, and theres the whole ghost car debacle
The ghost car isn't an issue if you can get the car registered
The physical part is no problem, as long as we can get it off our name
yeah theres no guarantee that after I put in all the work, the romanian government will let me register it, it's all a big unknown
Why wouldn't they? It's just an ordinary original EUDM import
because the romanian RAR is an archaic, pedantic, corrupt institution, filled with know-it-all idiots who went to engineering universities and have fancy titles but have never done an oil change in their lives, and it does everything it possibly can to prevent people in romania from working on their own cars.
want bigger wheels? oh, the manufacturer says you can only have 205/50R16, too bad, you can't put 17" wheel on
So even a normal import registration from the same market isn't open and shut? Sheesh
stock catalytic converter is out of production and the only choice you have is aftermarket universal sports cats on a stainless exhaust? too bad. needs to be factory
Here we can put +/-1" diameter wheels than what the manufacturer says, other than that it'll have to be mod inspected
coilovers? Hah, nah champ
I see
color change? Well... you're gonna need to get the car re-registered, inspected, homologated, and the color needs to be from the original color pallete
Your engine blew and you need to change it? You're not allowed to do it yourself. it has to be done by an authorised garage.
Oh no garage wants to do it because it's not a 1.9 TDI VW Golf (the most common car in romania), too bad, you're still not allowed to do it yourself
it is moronically pedantic
Even tho we have some dumb shit I'm glad it isn't that stupid
Although when the newest mod permit paper was published it appears they literally forgot to permit diesel to gasoline and vice versa swaps, even tho it was previously permitted
Also before it was permitted to remove airbags if the car was manufactured without them in the same market, now it's not allowed anymore
"because there's no need to remove airbags as they're essentials", completely ignoring the massive rally scene in Finland, in which many of the cars are road legal
plan is to get it registered as a WRX here in the UK, with the correct engine number and everything on the paperwork, install the factory suspension, and hope I can find a stock catalytic converter, then export it to the netherlands and register it there, then immediately after the dutch registration is done, export it to romania and hope to all the gods I can get it imported as a RHD car
and then once it's past the initial issue of importation, immediately go and reinstall the coilovers and sports cat because fuck the RAR
I might even get the subaru OE catalytic converter serial numbers and markings laser-etched onto the sports cat, and see if I can cheese it like that
but if the i can get it registered in RHD form, the LHD conversion will just be for my sanity and usability later on. I've had cars with teh steering wheel on the wrong side for the country in the past, and once the initial charm of being special wears off, it's incredibly annoying and frustrating to not be able to see well when overtaking, having to lean over or get out of the car at drivethrus and pay machines etc.
Exactly why I'll never own a RHD car
in the good news tho, car starts up like a champ every time
couple of turns and shes running
i've seen brand new cars take longer to start up than my subaru now lol
switched out the Y7 ECU for an E3 ECU today, and the cold start idle went down a bit more by about 100-200rpm
on Y7 it would start up at 2000rpm and immediately go down to 1500-1600,
on the E3 it starts up at about 1600rpm and immediately goes down to 1400-1500rpm
this is on a cold start, haven't been able to let it run enough for the engine to warm up because I don't really want to die of carbon monoxide poisoning... not yet at least
Its got horns now
Also, like I said, cold starts like a champ. My neighbours brand new GLC takes longer to start up
how did you do your horns?
they are hella right?
my mate was having troubles with getting his grille to fit with them on
My horns are hella, but they're regular snail horns, not the round ones. For tge round ones theres actually a special mount bar you're supposed to use that spaces them back. On mine I just bent the mounting tabs 45 degrees and mounted them to the crossbeam in front of the radiator
i see an ic
Now I'm not a bodywork guy, and my ADD means I just don't have the patuence to sit there fir hours sanding shit into perfection, so even tho theres some small little pinholes in the filler and it's not the straightest thing there, given the amount of dings and scratches on the rest of the car, I think it's acceptable for now....
Also I realised I'm out of clearcoat just as I was getting done spraying down the paint... So tomorrow I need to go buy clearcoat and try to blend the paint in.
There's a made for purpose putty for pinholes and small valleys in the bondo
bit late for it now lol
and I've breathed enough filler dust for the next few years
For future reference I think in english it would be finishing putty. Kinda like toothpaste, you just spread it in the dips and just swipe over with sandpaper
No it's spot putty
this is why i refuse ro touch body work and i just say replace it
plug lighter weight
i did replace it. just that my welding is equally shite so it warped

Cant do metallic on single stage
True
this is why painters get paid aloyt
oh yeah, in getting the rear bumper mounted, I have managed to crossthread all 6 mounting captive nuts. Powered thru it, literally, and those are problems for Future Adi.
No reason to take it off ever, there's nothing there
won't need to take it off till the car gets painted
dont even take it off then
also will definitely need to take it off when I take it to a bodyshop to get the arches purdied up
I shall soon be making my contributions to making the UK a warm, sunny, tropical paradise once again
All you're getting is more rain
We heard you like rain so we put rain in your water droplets
tropical
island
paradise
just need a few more years of global warming. send the shitty dreary grey wet sky further up north
Return of the omlettes!
It's actually sitting on it's own wheels for the first time in almost 2 years
How did you torque down your cam gears?
cam gears? you mean the camber and toe adjustment bolts?
I mean cam gears. Did you disassemble the engine?
no
Ah
engine went in as I got it, longblock and timing already built up
I'm getting really angry now...
alarm installer is dragging his feet
been more than a week now and no word from him when he's gonna put the alarm in. my insurance quote expires sometime this coming week, and can't risk taking it out before I have the certificate of install because if they have a fit and cancel my insurance I'm literally fukt.
and can't put the interior in till the alarm is installed
because he needs access to the wiring
Why not save money and have a well hidden killswitch?
because my insurance company requires me to get what is called a "category 1 thatcham" alarm installed... with certificate of installation, because it's a "heavily modded car"
and literally won't be able to get insurance without it
I see
I'm trying to think of a place to install a killswitch that's easily accesible but not easy to find
behind the blanking plug for where the hi/lo gear selector would have been on the dual range gearbox
If I only had a center console :D
ah
ummmm.... yeah you're gonna struggle hiding a killswitch if theres nothing to hide it behind
Yeah, barely any interior left
Actually I think I got it
There's now a cut in the dash at the a pillar where the front tube goes through and where there used to be a trim piece. Might be able to fit a switch behind there. Not visible from any angle
Will need strong glue to hold it in
or, or or, have it in plain sight on your switch panel (i'm assuming you have one of those, given it's a rally car), but have it labelled something completely different and pointless, like Tyre Pressure Check or Aux Demister
Yeah I'll have to make one of those but I couldn't think of anything so insignificant that the thief won't try switching it
well the best kill switch is one of those removable ones
You mean an ignition switch :D
which really would basically just be a hole you stick it in and twist like a key
they can't switch it on if the key is with you
and it's a hard cutoff unlike the actualignition
so they can't just bypass it
I can't imagine those being hard to force to run position. Also we are gonna do an electric kill switch in the trunk because we don't want to play around with the cables in the center console that's already too cramped
the best killswitch is to take your fuel pump fuse out
Best kill switch is to remove two pistons every time you park up
The "brick on accelerator" kill switch
Doesn’t that just end with your car into a tree scenario? At least my idea is fixable
royal mail has decided to take my propshaft bushes for a tour of the country. seller is in the north east, i'm in the north west, my package has just been scanned at a postal office down south in dorset... wtf.
You know you can’t get across the Peak District… gotta go all the way south to come back again…
alarm might finally be going in this week, insurance is due to start on friday, hopefully if the mate-of-a-mate MOT guy responds, might be getting an MOT next week
im so glad i dont have inspection
I’m so glad we have inspection
Though it’s annoying it means that you don’t have some beat up Subaru that’s not been looked at for more than a year and not causing an accident by pure luck
r/justrolledin is enough to make me happy for the annoying inspections we have to go through
This is exactly my point, it may not be perfect but it damn helps avoiding a lot of em
just take care of her and those things wont happen
the worst thing on mine is that my steering rack boots are ripped but im replacing that with a quick ratio one so im not getting a new one
dont need inspection if you do it yourself
It’s not me that I’m worried about, it’s every other fucker on the road I’m worried about. Some people are too cheap to do proper maintenance, inspections make sure they have to have their car maintained enough to be safe
Exactly. It doesn't help if your car is pristine if you get slammed by some shitbox that had its tires delaminate and brakes fail simultaneously.
Made the inners work now too
Still not sure I can be on board with those lights but when they are in it looks kinda like the celica
I'm fully aware it's not everyones taste, even I prefer the look of the stock headlights, but my god are these so much brighter than the stock candles, and right now for me function > form
Oh yeah they look effective as fuck
ah yes, my solid propshaft bushes have finally arrived
aaaaaaaaaaaaaand now the mid-pipe is fouling on the center bearing
great.
still waiting on the fuel tank harness...
propeller ppwered
I've ordered tyres, maxxis premitera all-seasons. Had £300 worth of demon tweeks gift vouchers and they were right slap bang in the budget there.
Went with all-seasons because I'll be driving to Romania during winter and it's legally required to have M+S tyres during winter months east of Germany.
Now I'm debating if I'll put them on the speedlines or the steelies. I'd love to run the speedlines all year round, but at them same time I kind of want to get some grippy summer tyres for them. For which I don't really have the money.
Also I need to properly refurb the speedlines, which I don't really have money for either, whereas the steelies, I can just add another coat of rattlecan black to.
We'll see what my paycheck is at the end of the month. if I'll have £300 to spare I'll be refurbing the speedlines and putting the allseasons on them, and possibly selling the steelies to make room and just coming to terms with the worst of both worlds lifestyle of allseason tyres
let me know how those tires work out
Need to figure out if I can get the screen to sit further back
So uhhhh
Nice
Jap plates looks so much cooler
Nah, too much going on. I like my simple small plates
What is it with finnish people being against japanese plates today...
Lol
What?
This is the small plate I was talking about
Not extremely common since you need to either have a car that won't fit a normal plate or alternatively know an inspector to get one
You confused on the white on black part?
I'm just a messenger between the two finns at this point
Ah, I didn't even realize he was talking to me
I know museum plates but they belong on old cars. I'd like to have them available for 80's cars too but it is what it is
He asking which do you prefer
I prefer the small plates but only on cars they actually fit. Not your generic EUDM Merc you got them on just because you know the inspector
Now if only my housemate would wake up and help me put the seats in and move his cars out of the way, the blue turd will be moving under its own power and seeing sunshine... And getting a wash for the first time in 2 years
illegally getting my real license plate this number, then putting this one on here with my tags
atleast
not illegal
because my friend did it and they didnt even complain
im pretty sure you can make your own too
Me rn
thats me everyday
those headlamps look good w/o fogs
so the v5/v6 ignition barrel is a pain to take apart. v1-v4 have a pin you push in on the side to pop the lock barrel out, but on v5-v6 they decided "Nah, that's too easy. Lets dowel it in. On both sides"... so it requires drilling to open up...
so, my plan of swapping out the barrels themselves so I can just have one key instead of 2 is on hold.
boo.
might be able to tap those newly drilled holes and use some setscrews instead of the dowel pins to hold the key barrel in
i'm torn on the square plate
I feel like it belongs to the side
it would if the bumper didn't have a massive moulding for a plate mount in the middle