#Toasty!
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
agree, i think rounder wheels look better on OBS
needs to be smooth
speedlines fit the vibe as well as the sparcos i'd say. The sparcos are easy to find used tho
apparently speedlines have better brake clearance too if you care about that
I don’t think I do right now? Honestly, this car will never get any sort of serious competition use.
The chassis just really isn’t suited to it if you have any sort of mechanical sympathy
stock brakes?
Stock ‘05 WRX brakes
trying toconfirm if the sparco terra 15" fit over 4pots but supposedly the Speedlines do.
spensive wheels tho
not compared to like, normal racing wheels, but compared to what i want to spend which is nothign
More stoppage continues
Post fridge magnets
Ordered the engine harness for toasty, from here it’s going to be putting everything on and doing an oil change and then we’ll see where we’re at
The parts pile grows
T
SUBARU
GENUINE PARTS
T
feeling wierdly anxious about working on toasty tbh
and y'know the timeframe I have, which is 3 full days + whatever time I can scrounge up here and there
oh just another 3 day job?
🎶 Just sit right back and you'll hear a tale, a tale of a faithful trip,
That started from this tropic port,
Aboard this tiny shit(box) 🎶
🎶 The mate was a mighty furry man,
The skipper trans and foolish.
A shitbox set sail that day,
For a three da-ay swap,
A three da-ay swap. 🎶
if you compose a sea shanty about this I will play it in a DJ set
yeah I saw, in a bit I'll go through everything
What if I just shove a JDM 205 in this thing
Cut out the whole fixing the engine idea
thought this was 190d for a second
Lmaooo
Also of note two people have suggested this so it’s not an original thought
B230
But seriously yeah JDM 205 probably a pretty good idea
Interesting name change lmfao
AVCS and JDM higher comp probably fixes some of the things I dislike about how it drives
If the shoe fits
Plus Salvage is directing me to ones with the better heads
The toasty h6 arc never seemed further away lol
It may never happen
H6 someday
But likely not toasty
(Blown engine Boxster would be ideal to receive a 30R though)
yoooo
Hell ye
Got both fronts done
Started toasty’s old engine
Running on like 3cyl and sounded like rodknock
However
Brakes are installed
Engine arriving Friday
Going to try and prep toasty some before then
But engine not going in this weekend due to rain and whatnot
May see if I can get the thing into the truck and to my buddy’s house for disassembly so the heads can get sent for machining
Part of me wants to just throw this engine in there and send it
I'd probably comp test it first but that's easy enough
Engine showing up today
Still haven’t gotten to clock out yet, let alone get the stand and get home with it
ITS A THING!!!
Forbidden Gatorade
Looks like valvoline vr1
Yeah someone really ripped this JDM engine out lol
@wary scarab has informed me I have won
iWire will have your next paycheck
Also wrx t20s dont have the sodium filled valves and sti springs / cams i think
But the ports are the same
No lie, I’m thinking about getting the AVCS-equipped engine harness from them and using the non-AVCS one I bought to rebuild and sell the original motor
Well the other route would just be getting the separate AVCS harness and adding it in
It’d be cheaper
Well like
Get the new harness and not hate yourself
(My green alternator plug blew into a thousand pieces last month)
There’s a few plugs in this one that are highly sketch
Oh if its new just get the addon wiring for sure
Y’know I should probably put in the order for it now if I want it any time reasonably not far away
Not bad actually, should arrive this week
(I have a second so this is fine)
Wonder what was going on under the A/C compressor
I’m not entirely sure I’m gonna rebuild this motor lol
It’s feeling very part out
Which is like, fine
this is the one from the impretzel, yes
the ebay motor is very clean tbh
not like "oh this has been gussied up to hide things" clean, just like
it lived a better life than I have
That’s…shocking for one
Being a jdm and two being from ebay lol
Do I even wanna know how bad shipping was
was like $200
entirely the residential dropoff charge
they put it exactly where we asked though so logistically it was nice
the alternative was getting it shipped to work
Who the fuck put battery acid on your block lmao
¯_(ツ)_/¯
Omnomnomnomnom says the acid
Minor milestone, christian and I got the AVCS harness retrofit installed onto the new intake manifold harness and got that onto the manifold last night, manifold gaskets should arrive before I get back home sunday
DP/Turbo bolts lookin gross
@void lance so it occurred to me as I’m working on moving stuff between engines that the JDM motor had More PCV routing gubbins than the USDM one, Alicia says you’re aware of a kit on flatirons for this sort of dilemma?
There is a kit on flatirons for like 220 that has all the avcs pcv and hose lines
Or if you care about money you can get all of that for half the price from amayama if you know the part numbers
Which I have since that’s what I did at least if you’re using a 205/207 or those kinds of platforms
Yeah it’s a V8 205
I’ll go take a look, thankye
I imagine it would get here faster from then
Also I seem to have an extra hose
Oh no this is one of the valve cover hoses
I’ll send the part numbers here tomorrow when im home
Amayama only took me like 2-3 weeks to get it and I saved half my money
Yeah but I’ve got 3 weeks to have the car registered on the road and ready to roadtrip lmao
Ah yeah flatiron probably your best bet and you’ll need to get faster shipping
I’d recommend asking their chat if they have everything first
Or it’ll go on back order
You’re putting a V8 in toasty? Sweet
Okay I actually figured my shit out
I think I’ll be okay
@strange rover where progress
A sight im nearly tired of seeing
minty fresh
Flywheel and clutch off, went to the hardware store for some various bolts I'll need before installation of the new engine, as well as loc-tite for the flywheel bolts
Flywheel and clutch on new engine, will work on stud removal later since it started raining
also just nabbed some parts on flatirons, should be here before sunday (which is when I estimate I'll be able to work on this turd again)
Put not a td04 on it
And get that stock up pipe off it
later problems
if the car's not running by end of sunday then those can be sooner later problems
but the goal here is entirely "get toasty to carlisle"
sunday's my sanity cutoff
I would just like to express how much of a nightmare a turbo and up pipe are to do in the car
At least crack the up pipe nuts loose so you know you can get them off later
will do
Yeah if you round one of those shits off later down the road, it can easily become an engine out problem
If you're smart you get new studs for the turbo and up pipe now lol
frankly the studs on the turbo are mint, I do have new bolts
we'll see how they are on the up pipe
So
Engine is in
Clutch fork pivot pin went missing so that’s coming Thursday
Some of the accessories are on
Rain now through Thursday means I won’t be able to work on it until at least Friday
Unprecedented
Now I gotta get off my ass and fix the skyline
yay
I think I wanna renesis swap this turd
but you won't
Is this spite being used against me as a motivator?
Nope
no but if that's what it takes i can spite you more
I’ve already started looking at what rotor housings cost
Uhhhhhh how the fuck did the rear inner race come out
Also why did my phone scroll that far up
Fuckin discord
does it run yet
y'know it's almost to the point where it probably would if I started it and had oil in it
Price JPY158,565 JDM OEM NISMO PARTS ONLINE. Brand-new authentic NISMO direct from Japan. Ship worldwide. HELICAL FRONT L.S.D. 087-086-015 Spec:2WAYInitialtorque:20Nm(2.0kgf.m)Model:RF1F61COffset:29SizeA:80.25SizeB:φ116Sidegearserrations:φ28×27TPinionmategearno.:-Ringgearboltsize(qty):M12x1.25(8)Gearratiorange:2.630Kitcontents:L.S.D.Oilseal(N...
Unironically about to watch a lecture to try and calculate toasty's theoretical energy usage at speed
- Supermanifold/Octovalve firmware to let it be controllable by Other Things, investigation needed and likelihood that this would cause compatibility issues.
Hi Folks,
I am thinking of converting one of my BMW E46 Sedans to electric but in my first evaluation of feasibility, I have some troubles with the package with the preferred Tesla Model 3 rear drive unit in its original mounting direction (electric motor front right with regard to the...
considerations so far:
- to fit a drive unit underneath toasty/to interface with the rear half shafts, all of its space utilization will have to be horizontal, no room exists vertically
- the only drive units I can easily find that do this are tesla and Lucid's, and lucid's differential is WAY too wide
- whittling down, tesla drive units generally don't like to be driven backwards due to bearing load issues. fine for reversing in a parking lot, bad for max-attack hooning
- the model S Raven FDU may be a choice but will have to be rotated about 30 degrees on the axis of the differential to fit, potentially causing oiling issues (will investigate if possible)
- the old Model S small drive unit with an oiling reverse kit may be the only actual choice
- induction motors in the back and some sort of permanent magnet motor in the front (read: probably a model 3 rear drive unit) will actually be favorable in regenerative braking due to the stronger braking in the front
the model S small RDU is worth about 180kw, the Model 3 RDU is about 240, so unfortunately the model 3 motor will have to take a 60kw hit to keep the thing 50/50 biased
180kw from the rear + 180kw from the front, even with that big cut, equals 360kw or 470hp
sheesh
not quite as much drivetrain loss either since you're not connecting the front and rear mechanically right?
bingo
you're using the stock transmissions and ideally some upgraded helical LSD's
so it'll probably make near that to the wheels
yeah
also I can't actually overstate how big of a find this is
being able to potentially use the tesla octovalve heat pump setup would be fucking massive
for battery modules I seem to want 2018+ Model S due to their signifcantly better cooling
unless I can figure out what the deal is with some stuff I was seeing for an e-golf upgrade pack, those modules are really well sized for fitting into a trans/driveshaft tunnel
not the ideal roadtripper
also I don't really know python nor do I really do much programming at all and I haven't taken a math class in nearly a decade so writing a python script to do this math was certainly an idea
keep making more, keep flexing on @limpid gust
python scripts
well this is my first so uh
even better
I do wanna do more of this down the road
I think before I do anything I wanna see how many model S modules will actually fit in the space I was thinking of using
Are you using the equation from the internal combustion fundamentals book?
I havent touched that
It just looked familiar
I think it's just the formula
I found a lecture on aerodynamic drag and rolling resistance and another on python and decided I'd make a day of it all
well okay the formula I showed is just the aero drag one
Which is the 2nd half of the bracket in eqn2.18
here's all the code if you wanna peek
The power equation is the same as the book
At least you label things
I'd get absolutely lost if I didn't tbh
with all the numbers I plugged in I was able to get pretty darn close to a few real cars
I suspect the coefficient of rolling resistance may be a little high compared to the model 3's ev-specific tires
was about 20 wh/mi high on that one compared to reality
models for cad:
https://openinverter.org/forum/viewtopic.php?t=123
Some further reading and I'm almost certain it was the tire result that had me a little bit high when testing the model 3's numbers through this script
was using a rolling resistance coefficient of 0.011 when apparently tires that score more like 0.009 are common enough to show up in data taken on this stuff over 20 years ago
Sure enough, dropping the Crr down just a little to 0.009 made up the entirety of the gap
I wonder how much energy our SEM prototype consumes
Its got a frontal area of 0.45m^2
I mean I can run through the required numbers to plug in
We havent determined rolling resistance but its higher than it should be, total mass is around 130kg
say for a speed of 10m/s
minimum average speed in a run is 25kph, so 36 is a decent acceleration stopping point
got an approximate drag coefficient?
drag area is Cd times front area
its calculated to be 0.4 but in reality its a lot higher
we changed the front shape a bit and there's seams and gaps
I'll just call it 0.5 for safety
correction, its 0.04
yeah I quickly realized I had no fucking idea what I was calculating for when you started feeding numbers, this makes sense lol
I assume we're on like, bicycle tires here
I am seeing HUGE swing in people's stated numbers for crr for stuff like bike tires
0.004 seems to be a reasonable number for a bike tire on asphalt
y'know I'm seeing a flaw, I use Crr like it's constant at any speed
further reading shows this is kinda wrong
anyhow, any idea on drivetrain losses and thermal efficiency of your powertrain?
The book says Cr^3 is between 0.012 and 0.015 usually
no but bad
but I want to see the required energy
so no losses
we do have some fancy michelin tyres developed for this challenge
well I mean, this calculator is meant to show the required energy to push something along based on all losses, be it wind, at the tire, through the drivetrain, etc, so that you know how much you have to put in to keep the thing moving at speed
we'll were aiming to change the thermal and powertrain efficiency so just 1 them out
nope thats pretty much in-line
accelerating is what sucks up all the energy
you could do like 80% transmission efficiency and like 20% thermal efficiency for the ice
"For their one valid attempt, their Gasoline consumption was 78.701 ml. Their Electrical consumption was 11,360 Joules, which converted to gasoline-equivalent is 1.877 ml. This results in a total consumption of 80.578 ml, which over a total distance of 14.752 km equates to an efficiency result of 183.08 km/l"
This was our only valid run from the competition this year
fucking wild
We were 2nd to last
double wild, jesus
were aiming for 500km/l next season
the top teams in our category in our region (not world wide) get 700-1000 km/l
the WR is around 2400km/l from a french team
thats for ICE
the other energy catagories are Hydrogen and BE
View the latest progress from Eco-Vodcar / University of Central Lancashire at Shell Eco-marathon Europe and Africa 2025.
this you guys?
View the latest progress from SAAF / King Saud University at Shell Eco-marathon Asia-Pacific and the Middle East 2025.
we changed up the front polycarb because the curvature made visibility too poor
I can definitely see that being an issue
If you're interested in doing more coding, I wanna know what the energy requirements for acceleration would be
The go-to strategy for ICE is burn and coast, so you accelerate under ICE power then turn it off, coast till you reach your set min speed and accelerate again
probably wouldn't be a project today but that'd be quite fun
I did some excel math based off the basic dyamics eq for impulse and momentum, but idk how accurate that is
The non-coders coding software
I mean truthfully that was legit my first script in python lmao
so y'know I'm not far ahead
What I really wanna do is model the car in a sim like beamng
same, it's a shame their authoring tools for cars still suck
that's actually been around for a while, it's more of a platform for vehicle manufacturers, but it'd be nice to see improvements there help lift all other efforts
I need to find software that will support students
I am getting... so into the weeds with battery research
I think the correct solution is to build custom modules into a pack
possibly as 3 parts, one in the engine bay, one in the trans/driveshaft tunnel, and one where the gas tank would go
note: correct does not mean like, sane
okay looking more into it, to build a DIY battery
it seems like you:
- Ideally extract the cells from something like a model 3 long range or performance pack, which gives you around 82 kWh out of around 4500 21700 cells
- Buy some cooling ribbons like are used in production cylindrical cell batteries
- Buy some of the thermal interface pads they have and some thermally conductive epoxy perhaps?
- Take your smallest common denominator for cells across a given surface area and figure out how many sets of those you want in a module + how many modules you want and design accordingly
- once you have a design for a case to hold it all, presumably with top/bottom frames that screw together to hold the cells, accomodation for BMS wiring, and somewhere for those coolant ports to go... you still do need to go get someone like sendcutsend to cut out a cell interconnect to then weld on
- there are open source BMS boards to use so that hard part is taken care of
- probably split these out into a section/ "subpack" that bolts where the gas tank once went, a section in the driveshaft/trans tunnel, and a section in the engine bay
How big is a single cell?
21mm in diameter and 70mm long
If using the 2170s out of a model 3 pack
I’ll have to figure out how to package ~4500-5000 of those suckers
I feel like for the sake of safety and preventing water entry/damage youd be better off finding ways to mount the tesla packs
I dont think its worth the effort or risk involved in ripping it all apart and repackaging it in a custom housing
I mean, the custom electric motorcycle crowd does a fair bit of this sort of thing
Also notably there are in-industry examples to follow for testing/ensuring good waterproofing
plastic grocery bags held together by 3d prints
That’s the ticket
Been talking to unc in DMs but I think I’ll trial this whole thing with an e-bike project
Since you're researching ev conversions, would it be practical to convert a dune buggy?
Oh stupid easy
- Tesla-oriented open source BMS based on tesla slave boards, probably good enough for my functionality targets and works with zombieVCU, which will likely become my chosen vehicle controller
https://github.com/Tom-evnut/SimpBMS/blob/master/SIMP BMS Install Overview.pdf
Aaand the above project is dead
it's been "borrowed" by some folks who seem to be maintaining it but have closed sourced their changes and are selling the hardware for more than it originally was
unfortunately it seems like the best system for my needs?
I think I'm gonna buy a Raspberry Pi to start fucking with android automotive on
oh shit, microcenter has them on sale
still wrestling with AAOS
spinning up a linux machine at this point to do a build
in other news, may do this swap in parts:
- start with one drive unit in the rear
- start with a limited number of prebuilt battery modules
- use the same BMS system that I would otherwise
- use more or less the same parts I would otherwise
- probably start with just a liquid cooling system on the battery feeding out to a heat exchanger and just an EV A/C system instead of the octovalve/supermanifold
this is entirely to get it moving before EOY '26
I should have enough room for about 9-10 6.3kwh Model X/S modules
63 kwh isn't bad for sure but the way it'd have to go in kinda sucks donkey balls
and with the reduced weight from less battery and reduced losses from just one drive unit, hell... maybe this is just what I do to start
update, the pack voltage for this would be so low that I think it'd blow the tesla charger, so uh
(fun fact from an ev mechanic to everyone else, lower than rated voltage can fuuuuck up power conversion hardware)
but this'd come out to like, 198-220v total which aaaain't enough
Mkay, 11 modules will fit roughly into the space I've got mocked up in cad, leading to a pack voltage of nominally 250.8 volts and a capacity of 70.4 kWh
This might actually work
final estimate with this battery, one drive unit, and rough approximation of accessories:
a full charge would deliver 70.4 * 2.7 = 190 miles of range if you used it all up, the 65 kWh range is a little more likely assuming a top and bottom buffer, and it's about 140 on an 80% charge
there may be room for a 12th module to get this up to 77kWh and 272v
probably going to have to take better measurements down the road here
throttle response: 3 business days
throttle response :3
"throttle response :3" gonna be what I hit the haters with when they ask me why the flying fuck I'm throwing an electric motor in an ancient subaru
So sitting in CAD last night I think I have the rough module arrangement down, though I also wooould love to see if I could add an extra repackaged module in the gas tank area
the boxes in the driveshaft tunnel represent a 6.4kWh module that's been cut in half and repackaged, which based on the internal layout shoooooould be possible with some work
total count here is 13 modules, good for 83.2 kWh, and a voltage of 296 nominal/327.6 peak/257.4 dead
a 14th would bring us up to 89.6 kWh and 319/352/277
honestly I think this thread is such a mess I might make a new one
a long story short I think I'm revisiting the "lightning express" swap with intent to keep it reasonably budget friendly
goals I'm making right now:
- ideally want to do a single-donor-car swap
- ideally want to be able to go at least 80 miles of range
- ideally want it running on an OpenInverter VCU setup
- ideally want DC fast charging of some speeds
some considerations:
- I already have the CAD sketching done to place approximately 11 tesla model S modules within the gas tank space and engine bay of toasty
- this placement may or may not allow for a front motor
- 5.5/6.2kwh model S modules are worth 22v nominal/25 peak/19.8 discharge limit each
- 11 modules at these voltages WILL NOT support any Tesla electronics below 22v/module, meaning once you get to 50% charge your car shuts off
- up to 13-15 modules could fit and make all the electronics power on, with the caveat that four modules would have to be rebuilt into a different shape. Two in the driveshaft/trans tunnel, and two at the sides of the gas tank area
- essentially no motor will fit in the back and receive correct oiling other than the model S rear small drive unit potentially with an oiling mod
- the only chance up front is the model 3 rdu
- two motors may not be possible at all and certainly won't be budget/complexity friendly
I think step one for figuring out viability is to buy a single module online in january and crack it open
bit of an update:
- will likely have to build new modules for the L-shaped bits at the sides of the gas tank space and the driveshaft tunnel
- trying to figure out what the fuck kind of thermally conductive silicone adhesive to use for this because good lordy results are not immediately forthcoming that aren't like, bulk commercial pricing
Update 2:
- everyone is telling me not to break down or assemble modules for risk of shorting cells
- fuck them, it’s a process, tooling and planning problem, not any inherent physical impossibility
update 3: there is potential for being able to fit two modules sort of behind the gas tank space above the motor/ MS SRDU that might negate the need to rebuild modules
unfortunately what this neccesitates is pulling apart the car and scanning in the bottom of it
so in the coming weeks I'm going to have to do that
a 13 module config like this would yield about 286 nominal/325 peak/257v cutoff setup with either 71.5 kWh or 80 kWh of battery depending on usage of the 5.5 or 6.2 kWh modules
this is just enough to safely use tesla power conversion hardware like the charger, motor inverter, etc
oh, no, I'm stupid, that's uh, that's where the subframe... exists
but I still see a few potential openings in places
smidge more research says that I should be able to find 6.2 kWh modules in a 100kWh pack
@bronze narwhal T20s indeed
Narrowing in on a more accurate estimate based on a dual drive unit Leaf DU setup with either 11 or 12 Tesla battery modules
truck efficiency be like
33kw gallon of gas is an interesting phrase
it offers the effective mpg in a way that played nice with the variables I have already set, lol
it's also sort of fun to think about
Really wish teslas ended up in the junkyard
I wanna just go yank the supermanifold and heat pump out
do they not?@
Not that I've ever seen tbh, which is frustrating. Best as I can tell they usually go to salvage auction and then get bought up to be parted out
imagine wanting leaf parts
I say, knowing damn well their inverters and drive units are what work for my current targeted setup
things to shove the remainder of the tesla batteries in
Genuinely really wanna do some sort of electric scooter with the remaining modules once I’ve got the battery
They’re about 50lb/each
@woeful junco
This build thread is the definition of a mess, apologies
I forgot to mention that leaf drive units probably would work for the lower voltage setup, or at least one in the rear would
You’d be making maybe 100hp out of it
What a wildly long build thread. I appear to already be following though
Well it’s followed so many ideas for and iterations of the car, lmao
Yes, was a neat swap to follow
I wouldn’t touch leaf batteries but as a demonstration of what a swap on a budget can look like, was really cool
I only watched their summary video but I'd definitely watch the whole process if I was gonna do it
Even if I didn't use leaf parts
That’s really the only part I wouldn’t touch, other than maybe the stupid chademo charge port
Thankfully charge ports are all up to what you want to do
I’d go NACS because it’s the new thing and it’d also likely fit better into a gas door
Isn't nacs basically becoming the standard anyway?
Yeah, exactly
dusting this off and thinking about a true minimum viable product swap
VW egolf batteries' modules give you 24.5-35.6 kWh, the former if they're cheap $1000 ebay things, and have module sizes that lend themselves to the fitment I'd wanted. Battery could probably all fit up front/in the trans tunnel and the drive unit could sit in the back without much around it, maybe use the gas tank area for charging hardware
example of a 35.6 kWh pack
not sure what this one is, might be the older one
this would actually open up using some of the previously discussed tesla hardware, thanks to voltages
the specs suck but fucking... whatever
(would defo really prefer the 35.6 kWh pack though)
kWh gallon of gas gets me every time
lmao
it'll be the only subaru that gets you 103 miles per gallon*
*all the other electric subarus in fact offer better efficiency by a long shot
one other neat point with the egolf modules that I... probably wouldn't bother messing with is that they have provisions for active cooling
using onshape I can create the world's worst cooling plate mockup to throw into An 3d Printing Company and get an estimate of:
yeah that ain't happening
I get the feeling tariffs are what're happening here
though I should also probably use a lot more of this space
revisions are helping but still, whoof
would love to do a design with gyroid infil but that's, like, a major pain
setting these to the side
notably this would all package rather well and the voltage ranges would be dandy
This would cover… most of the conversion?
Lots of ancillary bits that this doesn’t account for but they should be cheapish and smallish
That's not bad at all
I will note that this is for one of the older 24kwh batteries, a 35 seems to run about 3k
at that point I could maybe look at the volvo modules above, but then I'm doing more building and custom BMS stuff
okay so putting this here
those modules are super suboptimal as-is but I think you could make new bus bars for them and take them from a 16s configuration to a 4s4p configuration, knocking them from 60 to 15v and taking your nominal output current from 100 to 400 amps, and your peak from 240 to 960
DIYBMS 16S monitoring board - production ready and installed into home battery.
GITHUB Files
Hardware
https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMSv4/tree/master/ModuleV490-AllInOne
https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMSv4/tree/master/ModuleV490-PassiveBal
Code
https://github.com/stuartpittaway/diyBMSv4ESP32/tree/master/STM32All-In-One
16s monit...
Howdy all, joining in as I found DIYBMS through some rabbit-hole diving. I’ve been trying to find a good, affordable solution for doing battery management on an electric vehicle conversion I’m planning, and the open source nature of this project + the fact you can have it manufactured and sent to your door makes it theoretically appealing. S...
so some quick math on what a tesla SRDU/50kWh volvo battery setup might look like at 65mph/106kph
some ideas for how to attatch BMS boards to the modules
@bronze narwhal do you still want an engine?
t20 heads or s20v?
realistically not unless its cheap, i usually buy em blown up
and also im out of town for like the next month
Whatever big port is
T20, yep
It’s a T20 V8 205 with a new USDM harness and AVCS add-in harness from iWire
And it should work?
how much were you thinking
yeah honestly reasonable
let me sleep on it a little, leaning towards yeah ill take it, but i wont be back in texas till the weekend of the 25-26 so dont wait for me by any means if you need it gone
Yeah no worries, I’m in no rush tbh
It’s still in the car so I gotta rectify that first anyway
sam made me do it
(I did this entirely of my own volition, I wanna see this fucking goddamn car work)
Not inviting yam over for the famous yamwire?
This is a stock bulkhead harness that I’m committed to not doing anything weird to
But even if I was doing a merge, I’d rather suck start a shotgun than have an interaction with yam again
I think toasty is to become a slightly hotted up NA 2.5 car for now
y'know next year there's a chance
theres a stretch of this that has no gas stations for about 100 miles except for a single hand pump like a well in the ground in the middle of nowhere
but the gas is free so 
y'know the well in the ground sounds fun
I have a pic of it somewhere
would be a fucking funny stop on an electric roadtrip
its lowk hilarious
its straight from the 70s too
god damnit I deleted the photo. but imagine 70s self serve pump that you have to pump out of the ground next to a destroyed old bus stop
if you take the same route I did youll see it on the way
sadly that specific route isn't happening in toasterbath as an EV but I'll still have to drive at least one car from home to CO eventually
so it'll def be a stop
ev road trip sounds like a nightmare
nah they're fine
been there, done that, pretty chill
the anxiety would set in for a DIY ev for roadtripping
yeah but you have to split em up cuz of charging. ig it means you can get some rest. I like to do all my roadtrips in 1 straight shot
my bladder demands I pay it tribute about as often as I'd need a charge stop in most okay modern cars, so it tends to work out for me
i kinda wanna road trip the coupe but I think itll explode
a piss, snacks, and a drink and I've usually used up most of the charge time unless you're in something notably old or slow to charge
the longest ive driven this car is like 2 hours frm home and it wouldnt start when I went to drive it back lmao
perfect way to see if it'll hold up, lmao
I've roadtripped the abarth a bunch no issue, it was then randomy in traffic one day that I started having issues
i kept finding little wiring gifts
now that ive pulled the entire dash apart all of its fixed atleast
I think this thing had rats at once point
I can't wait to pull the harness out of toasty and see what awful state it's in
its kinda the only explenation
classic
yepppp
I need to fix my nice car but my oil looks bad so i dont wanna drive the nice one
out of fear of explosions
built motors like to sparkle but its getting up there
expensive sounds incoming
shes got some time left on her tho. once she knocks im gonna be building it to crazy spec
o7
I can't bring myself to do high horsepower subaru shit, though I think I'm also just realizing high horsepower in general might not be where I want my cars to live lol
the benz is getting a freaking 1.5 ffs
toasty's almost definitely getting a 251
I’m gonna put a 20G on the stock motor coupe eventually or sometime similar
And the Sti is a 500hp fp green car so it needs a new setup anyways cuz fp sucks
It’s not even about driving em tbh I just love the process of tearing stuff down and building it
5-3-26 - Finally extracted parts from the scrap engine to use on the 251
Tore down the old keyboard-special 205 enough to nab some coolant pipes and whatnot so I can hopefully reuse the 205 cooling setup. The rad's only five or so years old so it should be fine. Otherwise, the keyboard motor is getting scrapped and out of the way for better things. Also found out my hoist has balance issues, but it was free. May want to get a better hoist before pulling motors that are actually worth money to me.
Also sadly the yard did not have the forester I was going to pull a 253 from anymore, and frankly I'm not willing to delay much further on everything, so I'm just going to grab our 251 from the locker and start tearing it down. It'll be getting:
- A lil bit of the ol' port and polish
- a Legacy GT gasket for the ever so slight boost in compression it gives
- some delta 1500s
it'll also need:
- The heads to be gone through by the local machine shop since it's an old subaru motor in fine-running but otherwise unknown shape
- A full reseal kit because it's the right thing to do
- Probably? an oil pan baffle? I do plan to beat on this config of the car
- For me to eye up the condition of the engine harness, it's, y'know, old
- The correct timing pulley (which is not the one on the motor) and thus also a timing kit (which, hey, again, old motor
I'll try to grab that engine from the locker soonish so I can start getting it gone through
After the engine itself is secured, the car will still need:
- The entire A/C system to be gone through
- Sam's RWD setup
- The stock bulkhead harness
- The brake rotors to be turned
- Brake bleed
- MAPVSS since the BRZ trans doesn't send speed
- KYB strut assy's all around for a GG WRX
- The entire A/C system to be gone through
Eventual wants look like:
- Amp for the power acoustic head unit that's going into the compass bezel
- Wheels that aren't fucking 17's
- Chassis Bracing
- Seam welding
- Maybe a 13:1 STI rack?