#3D printing
1 messages · Page 4 of 1
least angry petg user
It's so durable which lured me in but nobody mentioned 50mm/s max
my silly self designed a time constrained thing
using this

i have been going nonstop for weeks
on the plus side
i havent seen a material CA glue bonds better to
it like
SEEPS in so strongly
rips off chunks if you try to seperate
really good
and having it look good is so hard
cuz its transparent

ive had to do shit like this so often now cuz blegh
i need a new filament after this
probs going back to pla lol
They are consistent in being a shitshow at least
true
i love how we have over 300 million guns, and theyre trying to treat 438 "ghost guns" per year as a public safety issue
You see the problem is that it's going in the hands of people who can actually build stuff instead of the local crackheads
problem?
The former are always more dangerous in the long run, the latter burn out quick. Whomever can endure the long game are considered much more threatening to governments and regulators.
sounds more like a ender moment, my settings for printing petg on my prusa, works good
I mean it is a stock e3 pro
With like
1000h of printing
that would do it
I should get an all metal extruder tbh
It would help a lot
Also get a steel hotend
Nozzle*
I've heard those help
With the filament sticking
does anyone know the 3d filament (or something that has similar enough characteristics) that bsb uses for the custom facial interfaces?
I just bought this roll since people seemed to have good reception with the bambulab A1
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07VDP2S3P?ref=ppx_yo2ov_dt_b_fed_asin_title
I'll let you know how it feels when I make mine
the important thing here would be the infil, you can work eith harder tpus and still have it turn out soft as long as you fiddle with infil
ehhh in my (limited) experience, using harder TPUs and trying to compensate with a lower infil doesnt work too well
you end just feeling the infil pattern through the wall
did you do a gradiated infil?
i dont remember
have it be high density towards your face, with like 3-4 top layers, then adjust the ramp of it
hm
also BS doesnt have any info released on manufacturing process of the facial interface afaik
You could definitely go with something less hard but in my experience tpu has a tendency to be a nightmare to work with when it's comfortably squishy.
rip
its defo not 3d printed
fair
its a molded foam
cnc milled 100% as you can see the tool lines
but i think they use some kinda recycleable mold material for it
that they can break down and remelt
also fixed this
just increased the flow to 115%
prints are literally perfect now
might retry using the silk pla
ayy lookin good
Finally got it working to the point where it doesn't take 4 hours to load!
It worked! Now to see if I can print it.
I am pleased to report that it is a perfect fit right off the bat. Even with just straight up pla it's surprisingly comfy
Can't wait for the tpu to come in the mail
I've discovered the downside to hairspray as a bed treatment
This took 15 minutes to get off the bed
If you put too many layers of it, it gets perfectly smooth
And so it's a perfect suction
Combined with the over extruded first layer
It just
Will not release
Lol
Also accidentally printed this .2mm in the air
Looks odd
But goes to show how good hairspray is lok
And thats why I got garolite
What that
3D printing surface for print beds. Basically the same material used to make circuit boards.
It has micro pores in the surface that give extra grip and contract slightly when it cools. That way prints grip on really tightly while printing and pop off with the slightest touch when cooled down.
I had one a few years back and it worked amazingly well. No more hairspray or glue sticks neccessary
I'm sure more manufacturers must have caught on to it by now and made precut sheets for printers by now
back then I had to order a 2 foot square sheet and cut it to fit the bed
ah found the video
Even if you only print PLA I highly recommend giving G10, otherwise known as FR4 or Garolite a go. I've been testing this cheap print surface on a range of materials and it's quite impressive indeed!
Join the Maker's Muse Community - https://www.makersmuse.com/maker-s-muse-community
Where to find G10 (regularly updated, send through your sugg...
bit old but it still holds up
Time for some extreme ventilation
anti spiral
Why is it bad
Got a screenshot of the sliced model? Night be able to see what it was trying to do from that
I mean, it kinda just looks like the filament isn't sticking to itself, which usually means either wrong temperature or it needs to be dried...
It also looks overextruded
I mean, he's not getting ANY squish on that top layer
So hard to say if it's over/under extruding when there could be thermal or physical problems
Honestly it's probably just a case of printing too cold if I had to guess
Maybe
I tend towards printing too hot so my issues are always more in aesthetics and overhangs lol
Printing too hot at least has some aspects of practicality 🤣👍
Mhm!
Slightly overextruded and slightly too hot, but in a calibrated sense
So I get super strong parts
:3
And still have it within tolerances
I was printing petg... So still no lol
Fair 😂
The point is to overflow a bit either way
I made rings that are 5mm thick, about 30mm across
And they could support my weight
On the weak side
climb to the top when it's done
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Check out the code, and try it yourself! https://github.com/jyjblrd/S4_Slicer
More details on my Core R-Theta Printer are given in my last video: https://youtu.be/VEgwnhLHy3g
Chapters:
00:00 Introduction
00:52 Showcase
01:56 JLCCNC
02:51 The ...
found an abs printer what do i print
My very very modded printer
Another printer of course
my gas oven goes down to 100F
PLA glass transition point is like 140-150F
and i need to dehydrate this shit..
A good way to get a big plastic donut
And ruin your oven
Go to a thrift store and buy a food dehydrator if you want to save money, or buy a proper filament dryer.
lame
Does it actually do 100 stable tho?
Use a thermometer to measure
Either way, best free method is just using your bed lol, take the box Filament came in, rip half of it off so it's just a lid basically, poke a hole in the top of it, then put the spool on the bed, cover with box, set bed to whatever recc temp the filament has for dehydration, wait 8 hours
Whether it can do 100 stable or not is entirely irrelevant, because gas releases water vapor when burned.
Depends on the kinda gas oven
If it's a heat element or internal burner in the cooking chamber itself
I gots a gas stove that heats up a heat pipe which is routed into the cooking area
I'll do this, thankies :3
froge
Forg!
59 minutes, 0.6 nozzle, 0.3 layer height, petg
this is reasonable right
Definitely could use some tuning but time is alright
I'd always recommended following this guide to a t
https://ellis3dp.com/Print-Tuning-Guide/
I avoid going above .2 later height myself lol
.3 with a .6 nozzle is CHONKY
i like em big
That's a toothed worm gear not a screw at that point
If it works for you then nice but I could never lol
ive found its just about the bare minimum for the mostly function over form prints i do
i ran out of the cyan stuff, unfortunately ive still got a couple rolls, each less than 200 grams, of old wet petg that i absolutely cannot be arsed to stick in a dryer
Just run it on your bed in a box for hours ex
600 Cubed 3d Printer Kit Venture XL by Fysetc The Venture XL, an eye - catching oversized printer kit, is inspired by the classic VORON V2.4. The key components of this kit are high - precision CNC - machined parts, demonstrating outstanding quality. Meanwhile, it comes with the necessary printing components and tools
pla+, did actually bother with drying the roll, only 3 hours though, switched to 0.2 layers
boy did i cook with this model
knife thingamabob
Bit the bullet and bought the centauri carbon
When I get it I'll tell y'all how it is
I got the fbt bundle cuz it's a good deal
They shipped the 2 spools and the anti vibration feet already 💀
It'll be a couple months before I get it lol
Took forever but I made a thing!
This is an enclosure I designed for the V2 USB Hub that Matt in the Bigscreen Discord created. I do not claim any rights to the design of the USB hub itself or the Bigscreen Beyond. I only made the case to go around it.Please bear in mind I created this by pretty much eyeballing all the dimensions without actually having the Hub or the Audio str...
Welcome to the club
Had the first accessories arrive for it already, I’m still awaiting for the batch of cc to ahip
Ewwww feet
I'm going to need a new room for these damn things soon
They are open-sourcing their RFID tag thingies?
That's cool
Although RFID is a bit of a red flag imo
With the development of the ELEGOO Automatic Filament Switching System, which is highly anticipated by users, we have ushered in a new era of intelligent filament management. During the R&D process, one core feature has demonstrated immense potential—not only enabling automatic filament identification and efficient
As long as they dont end up locking it down, I think that's pretty cool. I can see a lot of uses for that.
Landing Page: https://polymaker.com/ht-pla_ht-pla-gf/
HT-PLA is the industries first PLA material to offer 150°C softening temperature without an extra process to unlock better thermal properties after the print is finished. Developed in house by Polymaker’s extensive research and development department, HT-PLA has the potential to work its...
insane
high temp pla
better thermal resistance than abs or petg
and they have a GF version
its a normal pla price too

im getting some
what nozzle temp is used for printing it?
Printing Temperature: 210˚C - 230˚C
Bed Temperature: 25˚C - 60˚C
Printing Speed: up to 300mm/s
Fan: ON
oh damn
Buying some
I'm getting some with a steel nozzle on next paycheck lol
Needs a hardened nozzle?
Oh alr
is it that bad???
Probably someone who got in over their head
hopefully
but then again its like
3d printing is very easy if all you do is just download stuff from thingiverse
Not...really. that's one aspect but there's a LOT of unprintable crap out there and the material science side of 3d printing catches people a lot, along with the mechanical engineering side.
well duh but im not talking about that
theres tons of people who just print silly little things they find online with
I mean yeah, there's lots of people who do even that wrong too 🤣
^
Wth
To my knowledge people are having good experiences with it
oh ok
I've only heard people complain about Bowden tube angle (too tight of a turn at head, fixable)
Light inside way too dim (easily fixable)
And panel glass is tinted way too dark (bright lights fix, and you can mod a Bambu labs door onto it)
damn alright, probably gonna be my next 3d printer then
Disnt they update the light?
Idk
I sure hope so cuz it was basically a motion sensor diffuser over a single small diode under the camera lol
Oh nice
Cuz that lil thing was all it was before
The teeeeny blue one
They also opened up ports for custom strips that can be controlled via the software
Yeah no not bright enough
Screw that lol
Light is too high and not bright enough to bounce around and light up everything
Need a bed mounted light or just one that is below the height of the head too
I'll just tape in some cheap strip
I hope they release info on the mcu soon
I shot it
Nah JK just slammed a hole thru it so I can cram a boroscope in
Now I have this insane view
Noice
lmao
Gotta say, I don't think I've ever seen anyone do that before but I like the injenuity!
Same
I had a bit of paper beside me tho lol
Green was a nice choice
Yeah I'm liking it
Teal-turquoise is a fav
Imma get some good pastel orange from polymaker and I'll have my fav colorscheme
Gotta add a knob for the extruder and z axis still
And a filament guide again
Maybe some better cable management
Got some clips here
Also the PSU and hotend fan shrouds make it so much quieter
and the tungsten carbide nozzle i got is working great
i think i need to up temps a lil but its pretty identical performance from what i can tell
Also
Bought this at a auction
But:
Took me 20 minutes to fix
Now I only need to replace the PEI plate and I’m good
should i get a steel pei sheet for my e3p
ill have to clamp it on top of my glass bed cuz the aluminum plate is bowed
Well, having new issues with my Anycubic printer, for some reason its leaving those gaps”holes” on my prints
Having an issue were my printer is leaving small holes in the print near the circle edges
Oh
Could be like
Slightly too high temp and too fast moving
It's not getting enough filament down in that spot, and has a lot of ghosting there
I'd just lower outer wall speed a bit
Did it already, still doing that
But I’ll lower it even more
Raise flow rate?
Are you printing external walls first or last?
Can you print it at a diagonal?
Last
How?
PA?
Slicer setting
Flow rate
I feel like the printer might be having underextrusion
Do you have to use it?
Yeah
Locked firmware
There is a way to get orca slicer to work on it but its by jailbreak
ew
Can’t wait to get the elegoo printer on Tuesday. If it works better I’m getting rid of this one
im current batch :(
I'm sure it will arrive quickly
oh well
jay
I might have made the worst decision of my life or a good one
how tf does airport security allow for a 3d printer in a carry on
if this is the worst decision of your life you have had it pretty easy 💀
???
its not like i could do anything with it
machine parts arent illegal
my bank account its sitting at 600$ this is me betting it works and I can resell it
allow me to remove this metal rod and have a pipe on the caben
??????
i could just have a pipe in my bag
the worst decision of my life I honestly dont know what it is but moving to texas was a bad one, I can't stand the heat
they are allowed on planes, you just cant smoke it lol
I highly doubt they'll allow that
...
I just realized

my filament arrives in a couple days
I like the placement of the kobra more actually
make sure to share measurements of the benchy :3
Measurements?
Haven’t measured it yet but I can say one thing. This printer blew me away with its quality
I’m really considering buying a second one
can't measure angles but all of the mm were good expect for one
its giving me 61mm
can I print ASA in my house?
CAN you? Of course. SHOULD you?...that depends.
Got any small pets or kids?
Any respiratory conditions?
Is the room at least somewhat adequately ventilated?
Open a window, close off the room from the rest of the house and keep a fan to ventilate and you'll be right as rain
chiuahua
its in an open space in the house
Alright
I would keep the dog away from it while it's printing, and until it airs out. Burning styrene isn't the best for small pets.
mmmm... the printer is near a window, would it work if I open it and put a exhaust fan?
I can't really speak to your airflow situation
Learned that there is a Lenovo Thinkpad x1 carbon
Which surprised me cuz yknow
There is also the printer with the same name
Seems like they got away with it just because they have a hyphen lol
Wtf is wrong with my printing lol
It looks like under extruding but it's so inconsistent
Imma cancel this all and try again
Ah the brass wheel is wearing out again
Extruder gear
Couldn't print a spacer since it was acting like this
Ez fix
like a dream
I honestly don’t know how you can handle printing with one of those
I bought one, used it for 1 month and got rid of it. Couldn’t bare the suffering it working 50% of the time the other 50 would be a catastrophic disaster
Mine is pretty reliable
I think it's unironically a skill issue tho, not in any mean way at all, but it's such a mechanically simple machine, so it's dog easy to troubleshoot with how few parts there are
It can be horrible at first, but once you get used to it, it's very predictable
My worst experiences are with silk filament adhesion lol
@vernal ginkgo
They keep teasing me
Now they send a hotend, but still keep the printer
For sure but at the same time I had the a1 mini, I guess sincr I had the bambu I chose the easy route
Hope you get it soon!
If they announce the MCU I’ll buy a second centauri probably and sell the Kobra s1
Found one hell of a deal today. Sunlu s4 dryer for 80$
Me too
Got the nozzle, it's machining is really nice
Like everything is nicely toleranced, all fins are exact same thickness
Also new PEI sheet and PLA-HT-GF
THE SHEET IS SO GOOD OMG
It just sticks perfectly
Never used pei before
I want to buy some pla ht gf
But can’t find it in a color I would want
I need to get some red and white pla for my next project
Let me know how it goes with the 0.2 nozzle
Exactly! No more glue!!
Or hairspray despite it's fun properties
You guys are so lame, I simply held the print down. 16 hour prints fly by real fast
I'll still use hairspray and glass for petg tho
I guess that's fair
why?
?
Why is it good?
Like what makes it good?
Also I'll only be using this for another month
I just applied it to my centauri carbon PEI plate. Also use it with my a1 mini.
Its great to hold down any filament to the plate. I used to have issues where the corners of my prints where starting to flex, never had that issue again after using VisionMiner
-One single application last for like 30 prints. Havent even used 1/8 of my bottle and done like 100-120 prints out of it
Noted for if I have the issue
danggg
Imma be pushing that machine so hard when I get it
You already know it's gonna be wack
I managed to get my e3 to print structural parts at 218mm/s
More than double base speed
I’m surprised of the out of box speeds on this machine, its always trying to go faster
I had to slow it down for my filaments. I might get rapid Pla for it
what filaments will you be using?
I wanna see how good it is with my high strength petg, and the htgf pla
Mostly pla pro tho tbh
It's good enough for most things, easily my fav pla
Polymaker pla pro*
It has a hardened steel nozzle which I'm not a huge fan of but it's built for it so it won't be as bad as replacing it with one
Why you dont like it?
Thermal properties are a bit worse, it's marginal but the lower mass and conductivity compared to tungsten and brass does affect quality at high speed
Tho I've not used a printer built for a HS nozzle
It can be tuned for like anything else, but it's not simple
You will like the machine out of the box
Not many printers come ready for abrasive filaments out of the box
Specially on the 300$ range
Fr
set your seam to a direction
Tried orca for the first time

It runs my printer so much better than cura
And faster
But the patching is so much smarter lol
Cura doesn't calculate efficient pathing, nor have the smart line placement directions to make it lower likelihood of first layer small lines coming off the bed
It's pretty well done
The wonders of modern printing lol
Discovering PEI and actually good slicers after years is funny
Lol
Been using orca for my Elegoo since day 1
Found 10 kg of pla for 77$
Not a bad price
I would use orca but it seems to be broken under wayland and i cba doing the workaround
@vernal ginkgo
Thats a strong part
yeah but you light af soooo
It's still 130lbs + a 4inch lever
Teeny tiny
You really light
I'm a normal weight for my height
5’3?
5'3 130lbs would be on the upper end of that
I'm 5'8 ish
Trying the nightmare rainbow silk pla
Again
Wish me luck
First layer is going on beautifully
I think I've fixed my extrusion issues!
Used some actual metal shims this time
Not plastic, so it can't flex at all
I think that was the issue before, the plastic shims were squishing a bit which let the gear skip
First layer is literally the best I've seen this filament do so far
So even <3
After trying out the elegoo centauri carbon. This isn’t worth it unless you really need a tested reliable printer
It adhered fine, but it contracted so hard it lifted the PEI sheet and still warped it
However I did successfully do my first multi material print, manually, with a pause in the gcode
I also misaligned it
:3
It's something I am absolutely using in the future, it's pretty easy
I just gotta check it all the time, but has really good results
i took apart my extruder and lubed it with the lube that came with my printer do yall think that will that cause problems?
it said metal grease in chinese so i just went with it
what kind of extruder
and where
there is a lot unanswered here
id say at most itll cause a lot of smoke
Like jay said it very much depends on where you're putting that Grease
on the gears
forgot to say sv06
standard extruder for that
i didnt put any grease where the filament comes through
i put a bit of filament through it and it wasnt giving any visible problems if yall think i need a different kind of grease for the extruder gears ill buy some
i think the grease it came with was probably for the bearings cause i heard those dont come lubed
Then it's probably alright in that case.
As long as it's not anywhere near the heating element/fillament
cool
not me rushing making one of the oldest board games in the world rather than prepping for a set ill be playing in front of 80-140k people
(semi historically accurate royal game of ur
going insane
I still haven't prepped a set :)
I fly tomorrow
I will glue on all the tiles later
But
172 prints later it's pretty much done
7 checkers with a magnet of 2 colors, 4 D2 sticks, 5 blue trim segments,1 knob, 1 magnetized close drawer, 1 base box, 1 game board printed in 2 colors, 29 dark decorating tiles, 40 light tiles, 15 eye tiles
Oh and 38 5x1 circle magnets
Oh and 20 lil plugs for the magnet holes
I had to drill 4 out
Magnets wrong direction
Been building this for 20+ hours straight
I haven't packed for my flight tomorrow
Why am I like this
@vernal ginkgo tracker (printer box for scale)
It's so big omg
Lol
Polymaker has a 35% additional off of everything today
Tried to put it on the back but wasn’t able to
The screws were over tightened and made out of Chineseum metal. (Stripped easy)
Yeah one of the needed maintenance screws on the head stripped out instantly 
Filament got stuck in the hotend (my fault) it was kinda bulged and I didn't think about it being overdiam
Trying to save it by running it without any fans, letting heat creep into the heating
Heat sink*
Didn't work, swapped the hotend out with the spare, and just swapped the nozzle to keep on .4
How did you already ruined a hotend 🤣?
It just didn't extrude lol
I can fix it just got a unclock
Yeah I'm so used to a fully manual setup that I didn't use the special unload/load functions
Which is needed
Cuz it's not a simple machine now
Also can confirm it runs my super brittle PLA-HT-GF
Which can barely bend at all
But I was pretty concerned with that bend before the head
But yeah
I need to find a new home for it, it's got such a heavy head it wobbles everything I put it on
But it's still stable enough to print these like that
Which is wild
Totally
This is insane
Imma get the spec for all the flush screws on the head and give you em
So you can replace them
To not have rounded heads lol
Just waiting to email until Monday
Those are?
The ones on the right side of the head
They are extremely prone to rounding
@vernal ginkgo @vernal ginkgo
This covers the installation and preliminary testing of a Synthetic Electron 3D model that may significantly reduce fan noise while retaining more heat by recirculating chamber air. This recirculation technique is used in higher-end consumer-grade 3D printers, and this mod brings it to your Centauri Carbon.
If you would like to try this yoursel...
chat i think my filament might be a little wet
Maybe
friendship ended with aligned rectilinear, now line is my new best friend
gyroid best
100% infill gang
Be super careful with the screws on the whole thing, it's super low quality and will round out almost immediately
Also go to Lowe's and get the big rubber paver to set it on, makes a world of difference for vibrations for 7$
yeah i saw that recommendation in a few videos.
Me too, I work at Lowes so I picked one up and it's 100x better than the anti vibration feet you can get for jt
Right now I'm mentally figuring out where I'm going to put it. Obviously inside is optimal, but I keep all of my resin printers outside in the garage. I know I could potentially run into issues with fdm prints in the humid florida garage.. but I like to have all my stuff in one place. It's my shop. It's inconvenient to have everything split.
I do have a couple filament dryers that I could run when needed/ make sure to store my filament inside when not in use.
I also wonder if the humidity issues would more or less be minimized due to the enclosed nature of the printer
It is still gonna be humid in there kinda, it's thermally enclosed, but humidity does thru the small holes and fan spots just fine when turned off
I've had condensation form in it when heating up the chamber once
Not familiar with what you mean by the printer being affected by humidity though, from what I know the only issue with humidity affects the filament, and thus the printing.
I like printing out of the dryer, makes a pretty large difference in surface quality for all smooth materials I've used.
I'm in the same climate as you, just a tiny amount cooler lol, so assuming results will be identical
Ooooh we talking filament dryers?
Just saw this video recently which was pretty cool
Head to http://squarespace.com/CNCKITCHEN to save 10% off your first purchase of a website or domain using code CNCKITCHEN.
I got my hands on some fancy solid-state dehumidifiers from the company Rohsal and tried to build the filament dry box of the future, which is maintenance-free and very efficient. Yet how does this novel technology compare...
Definitely something I would consider if you're storing a lot of fillament and don't want to keep buying silica gel
You can microwave silica gel and dehydrate it
:3
I recently got my first dryer
It's an uhhhh
Sovol sho2
From what I understand you can only do that so many times before it's not usable anymore
Yeah
If you are running a farm then totally
Soldi state is goob
I need to invest in some dryboxes
Tempted to seal up a dresser drawer and fill it with a dessicant bed for the rolls to sit in lol
It took 30+ hours to dry out a roll of pla pro and petg
Or just holding fillament somewhere for a while and you don't want to have to do any extra work to keep them dry
Yus
That’s what I was referring to! The heat would probably help the prints if anything. The humidity rapidly deteriorating my filament is what I’m more worried about.
Sometimes all it takes it no joke like 3-4 hours before certain (PLA in particular) filaments become quite brittle.
I haven't run into any issues with this one, but the spool is outside the chamber but you can mod it to be inside with a panel spacer and internal spool holder
Haven't with this printer while printing from dryer*
There is heated MMUs and elegoo is releasing one soon
Which I will buy day one lmao
Same
Mostly for just ease of using multiple rolls, not multicolor stuff
This current setup
Also a sidenote, polymaker pla pro and elegoo pla works fine even a couple days after drying for 24 hours
AHHHH im so excited to open up the box and fire off a print. It was PAINFUL to wait like 3 months for it… it finally show up.. and then I load it in the U-Haul hahah
Ouchie
I love this damn thing, I got to compare it directly to an h2d recently and it was nearly the same print results, just different build quality and volume lol
Shit rips
this super small channel is making some cool mods for the ECC
mostly fan/volume mods
Been working on making custom deckboxes to replace the boxes that come with this DeWalt parts box
I just finished the dice box 😁
The boxes are print in place and fold up into stand alone deckboxes too, so you can store them inside the case or on their own
Looks awesome man!
I've been trying to do something similar with my toolbox for a while. Unfortunately I kinda dropped the idea after a bit
Which brand?
If you can give me measurements I can tell you if mine will work
Unfortunately it probably wouldn't work it's a Rigid toolbox
I'm thinking my best bet at this point is get a big block of foam and cut it to fit each tool
Got a 3D scanner to make inserts but I found it's a pain to 3D scan each tool and near impossible to make them optimized enough to model anything without fusion 360 crashing.
Well, it would fit, it just wouldn't lock in because rigid is larger.
Don't need a scanner for that anyway, just a pair of calipers
True but I'm talking about making form fitting slots.
I know, you really don't need anything more than some calipers and a top-down photo for the more complex stuff, I promise 🤣
nahhhhhhhh
Your right, for that you probably also want a radius gauge 😉
i learned how to make form fitting parts from early on, making lik 100 different mounts for eyetrackvr setups lol
just a ruler and a single pic is all you need
Like the watch?
A ballistic chronograph or gun chronograph is a measuring instrument used to measure the velocity of a projectile in flight, typically fired from a gun or other firearm. The instrument is often useful for tasks such as gauging the utility of a firearm or safety of less-lethal projectiles fired from items such as a paintball gun or BB gun.
It's technically 3d printing? 🤣
is that a demon core kendama
It sure is bud
what are the odds elegoo pla+ is anything like esun pla+ in terms of strength
Most likely, however every manufacturer uses a different formula for pla+
I mean, I think there's only like 2 producers of resin in China for PLA resin?
So 50/50?
But eSun PLA isn't particularly strong anyway?
Pla resin?
resin?
Dunno
All plastic is hardened resin, in a base material science sense 😜
That said, after doing some digging because I was curious, it actually appears like eSun produces their own PLA pellets, whereas Elegoo buys their base material, so the chances of them being the same are almost 0
eSun claims they are fully vertically Integrated, which is an interesting detail to know
many of the companies buy pla as nurdles and make their own blend
which is inefficient
but cheaper for smaller batches
its super mixed tho
interesting market defo
i know some of elegoo stuff is just other brands spools
and their standard pla is very interesting
goopy
cant find sunlu translucent yellow petg in stock anywhere....
it's a really nice color
damn you 3djake for this bullshit "in stock, if you wait a month!"
they make pla+ in the same color
we are so back
Does it look like my plate had proper adhesion?
Static cling?
Very sticky paint
Man I find the idea of "embedded device fingerprints" in a 3d print to be so fuckin funny
Like same thing that paper printers have
The yellow dots it prints out that is unique to the printer and directly traceable
Good luck implementing that in a printer lol
People will just run a different firmware
How would they even implement that in a simple 3d printer
You cant
It's just not a precise enough machine
It doesn't work on what is basically a grid like paper printers
Like
Paper ones inconsistencies are more towards colors being in the same spot, and even distribution of ink
The placement of individual colors is very reliable
Whereas 3d printers are so so so imprecise
And in order to read the id, you would have to take a damn ct scan of the object
It's for ghost guns of course, and isn't a new idea, but it's tarded asf imo
da gub simply aint got da means
It's time to claim the means of production
core one appeared at my local makerspace
Nice! I sold my X1C and bought one too, been really happy with it
they gave me the printer it replaced
Heh, IN the core one box no less 🤣
what even is that
this was a tevo tarantula from 2016
by now the only stock parts are apparently one of the motors and the frame extrusions
used to be in a heated enclosure to print the foul stuff
needs a power supply, sbc and probe to get it running
i have no filament and i must print
so i took a look at the bed
just imagine those wires
on those pads
looking exactly as they do off the pads
Oh man, hopefully there's enough slack for the ol snip-and-strip?
ya, plenty
gonna go pick up a spare psu from my grandmother today, checking that off the list
When we launched the X1 back in 2022, we started thinking deeply about multi-material printing. You know the frustration...the purge towers, the "poop", watching filament get wasted just to change colors. We kept asking ourselves: "There has to be a better way, right?"
Today, we're unveiling the Vortek Automatic Hotend Change System. Our complet...
took em long enough damn
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/1005008393691671.html? am i tweaking
Is that a bedslinger with a MMU for 265?
It's REALLY bad
Fwiw
Apparently the firmware is completely borked (which usually wouldn't matter...because Klipper...except that their AMS thing is proprietary...) and their beds are very typically warped beyond a mm out of square
They have to answer the INDX somehow, or their entire ecosystem gets eaten...and I'm honestly not sure this is gonna do it.
It's all the same costs as the INDX with needing to buy and maintain multiple hot ends, except you still have to pay for the heater and thermistor, on top of what the wireless receiver will cost, AND you'll have to buy a second AMS...but without the gains of things like TPU multi-material or the time savings of it just needing to swap tool heads and heat up & prime. The added time from cutting, retracting, and re-spooling, then extruding each filament is still the longest part of their MMU system...and this does nothing to address that. The purge was annoying but it kinda feels like they ignored that in favor of trying to sell people a second AMS?
figures
maybe is hackable...? its so cheap....
not that cheap now that i think about it
You can, but you still then ALSO have to deal with the overly floppy bed
my 5.5kg of jayo clear petg has arrived
hate that plastic spools are often the cheapest
Plastic is always cheaper than cardboard, and easier to manufacture
It would be better if we could all agree to move to a single reusable spool drsign
Cardboard spools are pretty awful for other reasons like the impact to print speed and the increased friction they add that the extruder needs to overcome, not to mention how much longer they cause it to take to dry the filament.
Bambu labs has a pretty nice reusable spool that is made of plastic
Although chances are they copyrighted it
Agreed, although they are likely to get litigious if someone else uses it
Yup
There are also problems with the Bambu Lab design anyway
Whatever the final solution would be, it needs to be something that is ALSO easy to wind if there is any hope for other manufacturers picking it up
The solutions right now really don't go onto replacement spools very well
Needs to be more brainless
fml everything exploded
my probe cooked itself alive and i dont know why
i burnt my finger on it
my sbc appears to be dead
i no longer trust the mainboard nor psu
all the parts for fixing new printer now go to fixing old printer
fuck
That sucks 😞
5v to ground my beloved
poof
probe arrived, sbc is gonna be here by wednesday
we back
it arrived today!
i have made a small oversight
this has a mini hdmi rather than a micro hdmi
and no ethernet port
Man I definitely need to invest in a printer that won't shit itself everyday lmao
Looks great!
Get the ECC
Get itttt
Recommendation for CAD for 3d Printing, Fusion 360 or Solidworks Maker's License?
Fusion 360 is probably the better way to get started, the personal edition is free so you can learn all the functions without having to worry about a subscription
Also Solidworks and Fusion360 are very similar in layout so when you learn one you have a very good idea how to use the other.
What happens if you start out as a hobbiest, but then create something you want to commericalize. Can you have your file and license converted to commercial at that time or are any of those files made while a hobbiest/maker/free license now locked to where you cannot commericalize them?
Not sure, I've made many models over the years but I've always released them for free. From what I understand commercial is for companies to use to stay out of legal trouble, they're not going to hunt down an individual person who happened to make a neat model and wanted to sell it. As far as I'm concerned the only difference between the personal version and commercial version is less features for modeling.
For example the personal edition will only let you have 10 active models at a time. However, you can easily get around that by exporting your file as a 3mf source file and delete it off the dashboard. That way you don't actually lose anything, you still have the edit history for the model, and you won't hit the 10 document limit.
oh interesting, where do you export it to, your local drive?
You can export it anywhere you like, I just have a folder called archived Fusion360 models
What about 3d printing, does it have to be a particular file type?
Anything you need to do to make it 3d printable and not risk wrecking your printer?
You can also get around it by "locking" the file to edits, fwiw
You don't even need to export it
Well when it comes to 3D printing you need to use a separate program called a slicer which takes the 3D model and "slices" it into the layers the printer makes. Typically what you'll see people do is they make their models, export it as an obj (geometry and color info) or stl (geometry only) file. Then the slicer program works it's magic and converts it into a file called gcode that the printer can read.
there are multiple kinds of slicers out there and they all work quite well it mainly comes down to what printer you're using and what slicer that manufacturer recommends. One of the most common slicer programs most people use with their diy printers is Cura because it's relatively easy to set up and understand. Other people who are more experienced in printing may want to use a slicer like Orca or Prusa since they have more features like model stitching for large models at the cost of making things a little more complex. For people who don't want to diy their 3D printer, there are also higher end companies who made their own slicer programs for their own brand of printers like Bambulabs. Simple to use, easy to understand, just send the file over and print.
Did not know that, I'll have to look into it lol
Better to export as obj or stl, or doesnt matter?
I have a bambu printer that uses bambu slicer and another that uses Cura slicer
Doesn't really matter, both will work just fine for 3D printing.
Obj has more information but you shouldn't really need to bother with it unless you want to do multi color printing.
STL is going to work best. .OBJ and .STP are prone to errors with the way Fusion exports the files
good to know, I've never had any issues exporting to obj but if other people are saying there's issues than it's good to note
Fusion doesn't care that the slicers aren't properly optimized to read the data correctly, so when you do complex extrudes with a lot of generated vertices, the slicers tend to read that as non-manifold objects and throw errors that aren't actually there...it's annoying 😂
Blender commits similar but different sins 😂
couldn't agree more lol
It just throws verticies all over the place that don't attach to anything
That right there has nearly ruined a couple of my projects
Would love to be able to model more in blender to learn how to make organic geometry but that little issue there makes it so annoying.
IS that regardless of whether you plan to do single or multi-color?
Also is multi color something you build at the Fusion level or you assign that in the slicer?
Color stuff inside the slicer. There are people who color inside of blender, I've never heard of anyone doing color inside of fusion (although I suppose it's technically possible...) but all of the tools you need to do a good job of it are in the slicer.
It is possible I just did it about an hour ago lol. But yeah it's probably best to just do it in the slicer.
Any one using any gloves for finger control and/or haptic feedback?
Debating on buying some vs making some from some of the DIY projects out there
for 3D printing?
I am intersted in 3d printable version or commercial
The lucid VR project was pretty cool, but the founder went AWOL and I cant find STL files or a solid guide to build the damn gloves despite an entire discord where no one has compiled a guide to building the gloves, despite 100s of people making it...
Gotcha, in that case you might be better off asking in #vr-questions-and-help
I've never personally understood how that would meaningfully help my personal workflow
I think he was just asking in general for VR games.
But space mice on the other hand 😙 👌
Live my diy space mouse for 3d modeling but I need to tinker with it some more.
Yo, 3d print chat.. so, I bought the "extended family bundle" for my centauri carbon and it came with a few extra build plates
How tf did they do this?
my first thought is that the built plate has some micro etching that transfers to the base layer of the print.. but like... the effect is stunning.
This isn't some sort of film is it?
I guess it is quite literally a "holographic plate"
as is.. micro etching into the pla/ filament that refracts light a certain way. Really impressive
very cool. seems to be an actual holography. Was on point with the assessment hah
From what I can tell you are correct they use micro etching
Mico-etching is more or less exactly what it is, yeah
Or at least it's a good way to explain it
It's a physical texture on the plate that transfers the reverse onto the print.
It works on other things too, my wife has some silicone molds with a similar effect she uses when making chocolate, it works exactly the same there too
One thing to be aware of is don't use higher temp materials with those, you can damage the plate. Needs to keep the temps down for it to stay usable.
its just a textured plate, exactly the same as when you take clay and press it into a textured mold, it takes the shapes of the stuff you press it into
so the holographic microscopic triangles on the surface get iversely mirrored by the plastic, and since its symmetrical it is a perfectly functioning copy
if you rub your hand across it then it will go away due to hand oils, but soap and water brings it back!
dont do flexible polymers on them, they can end badly
Yeah, this is all super super cool
good thing I am a dumb pla boi
Do you have the other build plates?
I have been having trouble printing on anything other than the standard "Rough" plate and this super smooth holo plate.
I have tried multiple prints on the "carbon fiber" build plate and it's failed every time
I have a carbon fiber plate from WhamBam, but it's not a patterned texture, it's real carbon fiber 🤣
So it's a lot less noticible
Ye
I just run first 2 layers 1/4 speed, slightly over extruded with mouse ears
I've been using the smooth side of the default mostly
I miss my nozzle cam, imma prob swap for a lighter print head setup and install a spot for it again
This was so peak
I streamed it off of vrcdn so I could remote access it
I have had such weird performance with the build plates in general. I had a great print with the holo star build plate smooth side.. but then I encountered print failures (bad bed adhesion) on the carbon fiber plate and smooth side of the rough plate.
However, on the stock rough plate, I almost get overadhesion issues where the raft is really stuck to the print.
The only thing that isn't tuned right out of the box is first layer
I had massive under extrusion issues
Still have notable gapes in first layers
No clue why
And some have overex
Most things are super well tuned
But the first layers aren't defo
Printer to printer
Print some various tests for it
Also I do often use the glue stick on the smooth side
For even better adhesion
Also have you been drying your spools properly?
Yeah it's kinda funny tbh. Some things are so ridiculously tight and tuned out of the box while some other things are clearly overlooked.
overall impressed though.
And sorta. I still haven't gotten filament drying down to a science yet.
What I've done that worked is just keep drying them over and over with the lid cracked
I have this guy
Dryers are still kinda newer tech, so most of them aren't the greatest designed
Some get the moisture out good, but the heat gets out too
Some keep the heat in, but moisture doesn't get out cuz it's too sealed (mine, I just put the scraper in to hold it like 1cm open)
Some do both (looking at 600$ tho)
And some do neither
Oh I'm not familiar with the space pi
I'd have to look stuff up
I am very excited for the multicolor addon
Fr
Not for multicolor for me mostly, I can do most things with good tolerances and enough time
Just convenience of material choices
same
I don't care too much for actual multicolor haha
Just being able to quickly and easily swap mats is what I'm excited for
I wish MMUs were more expensive tbh
Thousands of tons of waste at this point from the ease of access of the Bambu ones
what you mean, like material waste? Like wasted print material?
All the multicolor printed toys and trinkets and stuff
It was bad enough it was banned off of etsy
Yeah it was like
Facebook moms
Got a hold of it
And AI generated 3d models
Because it was all so accessible
You you have these people cranking out like 80g models with 100g waste per in purges
Oh god. Yeah, I was shocked when I came across cult3d and saw the ridiculous amount of ai generated models everywhere. AND they're all PAID
Also, where are people getting their prints nowadays? Any good communities?
I have been a thingiverse guy since day 1 but it seems kinda lame lately
Printables
Thingiverse isn't as good
Printables has dope challenges and stuff sponsored by prusa
It's lovely
And there is easy print integration with slocers
swwwwwwwwwwwwwwwweeet
yeah, I use prusa still for my Ender 3 pro (which I recently revived btw hahaha, thing still is kickin after like 40 bucks in upgrades)
what slicer you use for your centauri?
I really like the network options and I've just been using Elegoo's fork of Orca.. what's it called, ElegooSlicer?
Don't knock PLA! It's a lot better than people say. I use it all the time!
-# and not because I print in my bed room and don't want to die from the fumes of other filaments like a dumbass
I love pla. I print in it exclusively haha.
welllllll... besides resin. I mostly resin print.
Fair enough, I want to get into resin printing but maaaaaan it's messy
And a bit expensive
And highly toxic
If you use home assistant at all, I have a script that can take a snapshot from the camera every 10% and send it as a notification. Not sure if you can add the resin printers to home assistant but you definitely can with the elegoo...
Like that
If anybody wants it:
https://gist.github.com/Xelinor/f6c692b06efcf00c17788d590c4f08f1
I'm a Thangs guy mostly. I'm moving over to posing stuff on printables instead, but Thangs is where I go to look for models since it searches everything.
hmm, this isn't printing but the hobbies often go hand in hand, so Imma just ask here anyways.
Y'all think the makera z1 is a good device to get into cnc (mainly for dnd stuff like fancy dice boxes)? 760€ for me, and it's the first enclosed desk cnc getting me hyped so far. the genmitsu cubico looks nice too but I fear it'll limit me in size too quickly :/
also wanna do some aluminum/brass stuff for e.g. leather stamping, so I'll lkely need the more powerful one
Ah cnc, I’ll get into it one day!
Also, I had no clue you could get an enclosed cnc for under a grand. That’s wild
You've actually got me pretty interested in this machine. First I have heard of it.
For 3d print peeps: https://www.makera.com/pages/makera-z1
I can't find anything about the pricing of the optional attachments though... might come with the KS release.
Because for their other models, 500€ for the air filter or 4th axis module seems a bit excessive.
And yeah, there's a few desktop cnc machines for around 300$ out there, but with varying quality and precision, often with relatively low RPM. but alas, I'm but a beginner in this stuff so I might be getting snake-oiled
I'll take my chances and put down the deposit since they claim it's refundable, and decide when I see the KS prices I suppose
What the fuck is this monstrosity
Wtf
Tbh I'm more impressed than horrified
how...
spray foam failure
btw the cc mmu is delayed
they releasing the cc2 with an mmu system and removed "q3 2025" off the cc page
Aww :c
I think I've just had the worst injury thing that a 3d printer can give
Second to flat out fire and horribly burning you
Clogged extruder
Was unclogging it
Yeah it unclogged alright, and exploded on my face
Molten plastic, audible explosion
I'm lucky I had glasses on
It hurts a LOT
So PSA, clogged print heads are pressure shrapnel pots
@vernal ginkgo @ivory magnet
I have 1mm wide blisters across my face now
:)
Looking a bit better now, it's mostly 1st degree, minor blistering but it was LOUD and freaked me out lol
Only small shard of plastic shot out that wasn't molten, poked a tiny hole
OH NO IT WAS FIBERGLASS PLA
😭
This is gonna suuuck
Didn’t know that could happen
Hope you get better soon, and that no fiberglass stays in your skin
oh fuck
It's cuz the heatsink hole too small
Should taper down and be much smoother
Tbh 3rd party hotends might be the go if the bore surface is smoother or more tapered
And I only got 2 solid bits of plastic stuck into my skin, and a lil itchy, but otherwise only mild burns
Doing fine
OWWWWWWWWWWW
at least you had glasses
It would hav been a hospital time probs if I didn't
I was inches away
yee
Noted. Use safety glasses while fixing a 3d printer
@whole wind @vernal ginkgo they fucking ai generated first aid reccomendations for burns (and its bad cuz its for fire burns, not molten plastic/sugar burns, which should be treated differently 💀 )
"remove all plastic stuck to skin"
I'm surprised you bothered to email them.
what?
What would you even say "help my face is covered in molten plastic"
nah i just gave a detailed explaination of how it happened, and how it is caused by the design of the heatsink bore
You'll have to excuse my crappy English I just drank 5 fireballs for a wizard bit
with proof
Ooh I gotcha
so i sent pics of the burns and plastic on face lol
cuz it was relavent
im getting a whole new extruder
itll be fun taking this thing the rest of the way apart tbh
they have followed up with their R&D team, saying they will look into associations between the surface finish of the heatsink hole and clogging
Don’t think I put this anywhere?
Most recent stupid print project. Halo CE Magnum. Did it a few weeks ago. Lots of parts. Recoverable mag, rubber band on the slide so it’s “cockable”
real one when
You can probably see a couple weird pseudo failures on a couple of the resin printed parts, but given the design it’s a little expected (and the layout I chose in slicer)
A little post processing could fix it up.
Halo 7 legendary edition:
preorder bonus:
working magnum
neeeeed
ngl campaign evolved would've been received well if they shipped magnums with preorders
I recently got a new tower case, I didn't like the gap from the PSU to the edge( ...and the sff gap to the side in a full size PSU bay ).
Mine exploded on my face
Make sure to point the holes away from you when unclogging a heatsink clog
had mine since release never had a single issue
Strange I can show my prints
And swapped filament over a hundred times


