Is this E3DV6 all metal heat throat screwed on correctly ?
#Need help with heat creap can't print PETG
cerulean mortar
cerulean mortar
I tried 0mm retraction same deal
tardy tree
Is there a small gap between the nozzle and the heater block? There should be, as the nozzle should be screwed in tight until it hits the heat break. And it should be hot tightened. You mention you've got the issue when printing PETG, do other materials not cause a problem?
cerulean mortar
Yes there is small indent in heater block, the hole for heat break is not flash with heat block
I printed PLA and it was fine, I dont have PLA anymore so can't try
cerulean mortar
How big gap is between heat sink and heater block on your E3DV6 hot end ?
tardy tree
I think it's about flush with the top of the heater block. The gap between nozzle and heater block is a bit smaller on my setup, but yours should be fine, maybe heat transfer isn't optimal, but there's no gap in between nozzle and heat break.
It's weird you get a clogged hotend with PETG, but not with PLA.
What's your nozzle temp for printing PETG? Could be it's just not high enough.
cerulean mortar
I tried to print PETG from 230 up to 260 C
edgy wolf
Heat Creep is usually the result of insufficient heat sink cooling and/or an under-performing heat barrier at the heatbreak
What kind of heat sink and heat sink fan do you have?
Also, I'd suggest you switch to a bi metal heatbreak (copper & steel/titanium) - even a clone one will be sufficient
tardy tree
I've never had issues with regular v6 heatbreaks. And indeed cooling is the first suspect, but that would cause major issues with PLA as well.
But you could try adding some thermal paste between the heat break and the heat sink. Genuine v6 hotends come with a bit of paste.
edgy wolf
I've never had issues with regular v6 heatbreaks. And indeed cooling is the firs...
I agree
Though, for clarification, I'm not implying that the regular heatbreaks are the issue, but simply that they could be contributing to the problem - if his cooling is insufficient
merely switching to a bi metal heat break would eliminate that variable and make troubleshooting all the much easier
edgy wolf
But you could try adding some thermal paste between the heat break and the heat ...
I used to advocate for boron nitride thermal paste, but it's such a pain in the butt to deal with
Furthermore, when it cakes-up (over the course of several nozzle changes and reapplication cycles), it can potentially make it more difficult to get a perfect seal between the nozzle and heatbreak
imo, bttr to just go bi metal, 24v fan cooling (minimum size 3010), and no thermal paste
tardy tree
I used to advocate for boron nitride thermal paste, but it's such a pain in the ...
Yeah yeah, just recommending paste on the cold side of the heatbreak, not the hot side. That gets messy.
edgy wolf
as for the PLA consideration
to my mind, it's apples and oranges
PLA is usually printed at 190-215C; whereas, PETG is usually printed at 230-250C
(Of course, if you're printing 40mm^3/s or higher of volumetric flow rate, you may need to go hotter)
I would argue that the higher temperature alone is potentially propagating up the column of OP's all metal heatbreak instead of stopping at the thinner throat area
ie
His current heat sink fan setup might be enough to stop the heat creep at the lower PLA temps but not at the higher PETG temps
@cerulean mortar
What kind of heat sink do you have?
What size heat sink fan(s) do you have (if any)? 2010? 3010? 4010?
What Voltage is your fan setup? 5V? 12V? 24V?
Is the air flow from the fan being directed to the heat sink, or is it just blowing anywhere/everywhere?
cerulean mortar
I both E3DV6 from here https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/32844028127.html so regular heat sink. Fans is 3010 at 24v Im using HE1 for fan and have set speed to 255, yes the fan has red plastic housing and blow directly on heat sink ribs
edgy wolf
I both E3DV6 from here https://vi.aliexpress.com/item/32844028127.html so regula...
3010 24v is the borderline minimum I'd recommend to cool the heat sink, so it's feasibly reasonable as to why you're experiencing heat creep
Usually we don't modulate heat sink fan speed, whether in firmware or in Slicer.
It's easier to permanently have it set to 255 as a preventative measure to avoid heat creep (and the worry thereof)
Can you verify that the reported 255 is the heat sink fan and not the nozzle fan(s)?
If all else fails, I'd suggest buying that bimetal heatbreak as it's the easiest/cheapest upgrade to throttle heat transfer at the throat between the heat block and the heat sink
upper meadow
it also helps to reduce retract to an absolute minimum. Cura defaults to 6.5mm which is appropriate for a Bowden driven 2.85mm machine; but that's too much for most other designs