#Sourcing parts for a Voron V0 in Jordan :flag_jo:
1024 messages · Page 2 of 2 (latest)
Not possible atm for a number of reasons. Plus I already ordered
It's not the most optimal way of doing things I know. But if I'm able to travel out of the country in the future, I'll probabably be using aliexpress
uni is awful
You had been quiet for a while.!
been struggling with uni all this time 🙁
8 hours a day there go home sleep repeat
Yuck. You only have to do it once though.
3 years 🙁 but yea it will pass
last piece ordered, first to arrive 🤣
Lol yeah. It still has to make its way through the airport
cant wait to see how your trident will look.
do you know what colors do you use for your printed parts?
mine needs only electrics and panels done
Classic black and red :)
Couldn't find ANY of the screws I need locally. I think I'll have to order them online
Got a list of what you are looking for?
Yeah, the ones on the BOM for the trident
not a single one?
Where are you looking? You may need to go more “industrial supplier” than home improvement store.
Possibly but I don't know of an industrial supplier of any sort
It's probably out-of-city
maybe amazon, one screw set and the rest as small batches? thats how i done it with some of my screws i needed
somethink like this and then buy the extra m3x8 as a 100 pack or so?
This is the wrong head style but yes, this is a valid option.
Uff… I always switch the names between these two… can’t keep them correct in my head…
That’s something I will never learn to translate correct in my head 😂
Picking the minor parts. Are these the heat inserts I need?
for the m5 heat inserts yes
yes
By the way. I can't seem to find any M3x50 cylindrical screws. BOM says it needs two of them but I haven't found any 50mm screws in the trident manual
I haven't come by one entry for M3x50 on temu
havent found them myself. only i know are for the printhead
but i also cant find them in the bom picture above what i had posted
I see. I guess I can do away with it
Are these the "roll-in" or "drop-in" M3 T nuts I need?
Those are roll in but if its easier for you to source, hammerhead t nuts work just as well. They are a little more difficult to install but not impossible
I think ease of installation is not much of a concern at this point lol
Same
j just have replaced all hammerhead t nuts with roll in because of comfort
Hence the suggestion
You mean these hammerhead?
this are slide in t nuts
Id describe these as slide in and they are not what you want
i think the hammerhead are mostly for the panels if i remember correct or im wrong?
You should be able to replace all rollins with hammer heads
yeah, and vice versa
this are hammerhead t nuts
i dont use them at all on my build. but if you want to save a bit of money then you can also use only these
Sounds good
some times it could be tricky to use them. because they can slide around in the frame, can fall out or sometimes dont rotate to lock inside the frame profile. so be careful
Just to be clear, drop-in and roll-in T nuts are the same, right?
Oh. So drop-in is the same as hammerhead?
I'm confused since the manual mixes them up and I have no prior experience with them
only different is how you install them in the frame and how easy you can remove them.
drop-in and hammerhead are the same, just different names
I see. Thank you
Are spacers not the same thing as washers?
I'd guess it's to do with precision?
a spacer has differnt lenghts. a washer is stamped out of a sheet metal. shims are cutted out and have precise thicknesses. washers can vary a bit
Is this the correct M3 locknut?
This is to ensure that the nut does not come loose on its own.
I take it that "shims" are the same as spacers?
where do you read spacer?
I guess I'll have to use washers. I can't find any "shims" nor "spacers" on temu
I only found these but they're $1.50 for 2pcs 😭
How many does it call for?

Is there no where else you can get them?
Not even a local hardware store???
Where are these used again? I think on the extrusions
Obviously I could get washers locally
That's what I'm gonna do
On the joints and stuff
Yeah these are important
Washers will do
The critical dimension is the thickness
Unfortunately they won't. You do want the 1mm thickness
Yup
This is important
@shrewd oyster do you have access to a machine shop or jlc cnc
I'm already spending $100 on bullshit screws lol
Nope
@quiet blaze you might be able to help seeing as you ship to wierd places
Whats your shipping policy to Jordan
The thing with the screws is that all the woodworking or home improvement shops have self tapping screws
you have many spare ones after the build, so... that they are dont a waste, just build mods for your printer to use them, or build another printer 
i dont know how much i spend only on screws for my builds. but its way to much... last buy was m5x16 100pcs for 12€ and m5x10 50pcs for 8€... i only needed around 20 of the 5x16 and 10 5x10
I get that. I have the money but I feel like the build cost is creeping way up now
All things considered it's now a $1200 build
It was my fault for not considering the screws and pulleys and stuff. I thought those were gonna be cheap and easy to source
for self sourcing its ok i think.
its more expensive then a kit when you compare the parts cost because they buy everythink in bulk
This is the idler I need for the belts?
GT2 20 tooth
"20 Teeth 5mm Bore GT2 Idler Pulley"
Ah yeah that is what I want
5mm bore 6mm width
what are the dimensions of the flanges? you dont want them to big that they are rubbing against your printed parts.
I don't quite understand
It only has this diagram
Do you mean the widths of top and bottom?
this
if they are to big they can rub on this part and position
cant say if 18mm will work. i think if you find ones with 16mm they are fine.
maybe someone different can give you an answere there.
i dont use the standard gantry
Is there an alternative to the GE5C bearings? I can't find those...
you order the parts via temu atm right?
Yes
Not available for me for whatever reason
would aliexpress work too?
Tell me
No just temu
Whats your shipping policy to Jordan 
Yeah I can't find GE5C bearings at all. Nor GE5E
Considering this again https://www.printables.com/model/963865-voron-trident-ge5c-bearing-alternative-flexure
I guess ABS is out the window until I find these bearings
they will deforme under heat and the weight of the printbed assambly, dont know if this will work for a long period of time
50 dollars for bearings from amazon...
It'll get me going at least. I can always print more of them
@rough raft do you think it would be possible to hard mount the bed assambly with the z mechanik like some guys to in the v2.4 with the gantry? it wouldnt flex this much. but the bed does not need really too. or will this create problems?
i think it could be better then printing this flex parts linked above 🤔
No idea. Best to ask in #voron_trident_questions
BOM mentions a 5x30mm shaft. I assume this is for bed leveling? I've opted for klippy for probing
I'll ask
its for the z endstop, but you dont need it when you go clicky. then you need to calibrate your z offset manuelly. when you install the endstop it can do auto z calibration after configure
Got it
@shrewd oyster i have maybe an idea for your ge5c problem. but then you would need to print the r1 z parts.
or find someone that can edit the r2 parts to work the same like this
https://www.printables.com/model/498198-voron-trident-ball-and-magnet-z-mounts
instead of the ge5c bearing your using a metal ball and a countersunk disc magnet. only problem is that the bed can fall when you put the printer on the side
I'll keep it in mind. But I may be able to get hold of bearings locally
Manual says I need a 3mm ID PTFE tube for the idlers. Will 2.5mm work? Bit of a stupid question but I just can't find 3mm ID tubes
That might be a little tight
The 3mm is used to allow the front idlers slide. And a m3 screw goest through them
You can always drill the tube out tho
@shrewd oyster the important dimension is the outside diameter
I recognize that
I believe its 4mm outside but dont quote me on that
It is according to the manual
That's good to know
This project has so many stuff I've never dealt with before lol
Welcome to voron 
Is this fine for microfit connectors? https://mikroelectron.com/product/me-15207
The Dupont Housing Female Pin Connector 2.54mm is a versatile connector housing designed for electronic wiring, prototyping, and wire-to-board or wire-to-wire connections. Available in 1, 2, 3, 4, 5, 6, 7, 8, 9, 10, and 20 positions, it features the standard 2.54mm pitch used by many electronic headers and development boards. The housing is manu...
I can't tell what it's used for. No direct mention of it in the manual
I don't know if I should just buy all of this stuff from temu
These results are just so sparse. I doubt I even know the thing I'm looking for 😅
Think these'll work? I'm concerned that it's 10mm wide
F695 is 15mm
Ig it works
No. The screw will expand it too much.
You may not need the MicroFit stuff depending on how you wire.
Did you look with the DIN standard mentioned?
Sorry I didn't explain what I'm looking for. This shim is for this part: (not DIN rails)
No, I read and understand what you were looking for.
There is a DIN/ISO spec for all of the parts and that would be something to search for.
Oh, the BOM doesn't say. I'll check the sourcing guide
I would not use nylon.
DIN 988
It's quite difficult to find on temu unfortunately
I found this which says "washer" but looks solid. Doesn't say the margins unfortunately
I used AliExpress but I was thinking about if you were sourcing locally.
I might find them locally but it'll be a short while before I go looking
That looks punched and is likely a fender washer.
Right on the dot 😅
All the washers look punched tbh. I guess it's what makes them washers and not spacers
I may have a few orbits around the sun under my belt....
Forgive my naiveness
Hey, you don't know until you know.
I have to make the temu order. I'll try to source metal spacers locally, but I'll also get the nylon spacers just in case
I guess I'll need to drill through it. I only need 35mm tubes of the 3mm ID, so it should be easy enough
Are you saying I can decide what "plug shape" (what's it called?) to use for the electronics?
For certain things yes, iirc the microfit is sometimes used for Canbus
Kinda? Microfit was recommended for direct wire maintenance before but if you use a tool head board then you don't have long runs of individual wires.
I'm sure I can find the right connectors locally
