#Heated bed not working with Tyson build plate

24 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

willow glen
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Hello friends! I bought a 2yo 355mm Voron 2.4 that is great shape with about 400 printer hours on it. I used to have a Sovol Zero with a the small Tyson build plate and it worked flawlessly so I shelled out for the build plate for this one.

I am finding that my prints are not sticking to the Tyson bed but are sticking okay to a thinner PEI sheet withthat came with the printer if I use glue.

Thoughts on how to figure out what the problem might be?

gusty parcel
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Welcome! Lets start with some pictures

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Also, when you get a chance, can you please select a country flag at #rules

willow glen
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I picked a flag and when I do a print tomorrow (I am doing one right now with the flexible textured PEI plate) I will use the Tyson plate and take pictures

willow glen
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Got some pictures of what happens

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My print on the regular textured PEI plate with glue worked just fine.

gusty parcel
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looks like your z offset is too high

plain tartanBOT
gusty parcel
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take a look at that tuning guide to get started

willow glen
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Every time it prints I am like 99% sure it is doing tap configuration for the Z offset

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But thank you for the suggestion

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Follow-up question - should I do the calibration hot or cold?

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(For the Z offset)

grizzled rock
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Even with a tap, the correct z offset often varies a bit between different build plates (not a lot, but enough to make prints not stick sometimes).

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I don't think temperature matters all that much, but might as well do it at "the usual temperature" where measurements are done during prints (typical bed temp, hotend at 150°C).

willow glen
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Thank you both @gusty parcel & @grizzled rock

gusty parcel
willow glen
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I have done the paper test three times and I am still not getting prints to stick to a clean bed. I get 10 to 11 layers in and it lets go. I am trying to print a calibration cube in PolyMaker ASA. I had previously done all calibration prints but with a different build plate. I wonder if the Tyson plate I am using just doesn’t work well with the heated bed. I am using Demon Klipper macros and it does a 15 minute soak before printing.

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260 hot end, 100 bed

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When everything cools down I am going to try again with a different plate

gusty parcel
willow glen
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I noticed that the print head also knocked my purge line out of the way

gusty parcel
# willow glen

You may want to open a thread in #slicers_and_print_help cause it looks like your first layer is too high and you may have some pressure advance issues. But I am not entirely sure of any other issue you may be having