#Trident 300 Formbot
111 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
above are from the sb2209 rp2040
below are from the cartographer v3
Mods:
BFI, pin, galvanic arm, cartographer cnc carriage, monolith panels, klicky klacky door, titanium xy backers, omron switch in the cw2 with 5.5mm ball for filament sensor
belts tightened to 2.1 on using the pf meter
Looks like belt is rubbing…just noticed
Other side looks ok
👋
just saying hi, take your time. no rush 🙂
reply to this message or tag me, so we know u are comfortable everything from the guidelines is provided 🙂
Moved the pulley
cartographer adxl after pulley move
This was printed before I moved the pulley
Apologies I don’t have any other filament except white petg at the moment
@raven rune Done, I think that's all that's needed?
do you think or did u verify? 🙂
I verified, was more a question towards if any other pictures will be helpful
the more the better, but if we have whats required we can start 🙂
anyway, great post. Thank you for taking the time, this makes our life way easier
for the ADXL please stick to CAN Board for now.
white is not great for seeing ringing/VFAs, but we can make it work. we will need your eyes as camera wont pickup as much as u can see in person.
from what it looks like on picture, its likely more VFAs than ringing
is it just the picture or do u have vertical lines here? see picture
Lines, almost straight
ok so VFAs rather than ringing
do one more run with CAN board adxl please. check its being done with 5 as Square corner velocity, the carto is at 9 in the picture above
once done, lets put the fresh values into your config, confirm it via klippy.log and run vibration profile from shaketunes portfolio
not sure why the carto one was 9, but here's the can board
they do look like vfas rather then rining, but the other side of the logo doesn't have the vertical lines
great, so use what its recommending you and verify u have 6 parameters in the [input_shaper] section 🙂
shaper x
freq x
damping x
shaper y
freq y
damping y
nevermind, use MZV for X and Y
in your oppinion, things look acceptable?
for now, yes 🙂
spot on, well done
@jade phoenix can you post belts to please
from shake n tune?
yes please
completely missed the vibration profile
i have the tmc_autotune plugin
That chatter you see after the main peak can be your umbilical vibrating. Please remove the plastic part and redo the belts and input shaper
I’m assuming you’re talking about this?
I finally got some non white petg here’s the test cube. Print settings unchanged. Pictures taken purposefully with the light reflection in the print.
and input shaper right before the print
@obsidian yacht or @raven rune could I get a once look over please?
Can you post your [input_shaper] settings please
what speed are your ext perimetrs at
it's 400 across the board, but limited to 15mm^3/s flow
that is probably to fast. Can you run vibrations profile. One at 0-200 and the other at 0-450
looks like it maxes out at 142 closer to the top
Go ahead and run vibrations at 0-200
Try setting ext perimeter to 120
is the symmetry too low? I've probably done about 25 hours of printing now, think good idea to check belt tension now?
print another cube?
Sure
This is the fun part. Print wait 30ish minutes, make an adjustment, print etc
Before I started printing, I double checked my belts, they were a bit off. I retightened to 2.1 on pf.
can you post your printer.cfg. I am not sure you are actually using [input_shaper]
Max outer perimeter was 118
also can you post the 3mf file for the cube
you using orca or prusa
orca
filament isn't dried
and i haven't tuned pa on this specific color, i tuned pa on white
what PA are you using
0.04
is this pla or petg
kingroon petg
You are going to need to walk through Ellis print guide
Your PA and EM maybe need to be adjusted
you also may need to slow down. I do not print PETG much.
@rain cedar what are your thoughts
mind doublechecking my tmc_autotune and seeing if I commented out too much?
For TMC autotune, I just run x and y motors. I also group it all together. What you are doing is fine. I just put it all together to make it easier to find
sense_resistor commented out or not?
I am not sure
Em and pa was taken from white petg from same brand, I’ll tune it here shortly
what speeds do you use for white
Flow regulates speed
15mm^3/s
Lemme find something I printed in white, but the cube is also higher in this chat
I think you might need to go to #slicers_and_print_help to figure our speeds.
Do you have pla or abs that you can print so we can see if it is material or other issue
No pla, I probably have abs but no profile for it
Printed my parts on another printer
I’ve got black polymaker abs
that will work
Will take a few hours to tune it though
PETG is not a standard material I work with.
#slicers_and_print_help might be better for that
I’ll move the printer to the garage and start tuning tonight
Looking at that black cube, it is difficult to see anything except issue with motion system or toolhead. Photos are not clear but it is a clear issue with belt tension being too high or belt rubbing somewhere or part cooling fan rattling or maybe toolhead rattling. I would say it's the belts, it is distinct vertical artifacts that are easily seen on V0.2 usually.
Here’s abs @obsidian yacht
Much better
I think we have a material property issue going on.
In orca pull up a prusa core one printer. Take a look at their petg settings. Make sure they are conservative. Then copy it as much as possible to a test profile. Then print a cube using the test profile
What would you say about the petg vs abs
ABS looks great. I don't see the issues that are on PETG cube.
All I see on ABS cube is repeating issue after some edges. This could be PA issue or combination of things (speed, PA, accel).
No mechanical changes were done between the petg print and abs…I tuned abs pa via the line test in orca (ended up on 0.026), verified via pattern but very hard to discern differences in pa pattern between 0.02 and 0.035ish. Could be speed because max flow was 25mm^3/s and it ended up being around 250mm/s I the center above the logo