#Printer config

107 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)

safe valve
#

Hey guys,

it's my first voron and i am new with klipper.

Build the R2.4 350 formbot with upgrades and mods.

Manta m8p V2
Btt U2C V2.1 for CAN
Btt Ebb36 V1.2
Rapido 2 Plus UHF
Vz-HextrudORT with 10T pinion
Btt SFS 2.0 Filamentsensor
Chamberlight 3x mellow daylight
Chamber and Electronic Bay Thermistors
Cartographer V4 not running yet(only switched from USB to CAN)
Want sensorless homing

Mantis Toolhead

I've write all pins out and edit it in basic voron config with my low klipper experience. Not runs for sure 🙈😅
I've not edit all optinal stuff because basics doesn't work.
Made an excel dokuments with my pins.

But need definitely support/advice for my first voron. I am little bit lost as noob in the klipper world.

Thx for your help 🥰

open ocean
safe valve
#

Took the github voron 2.4 Manta m8p V2 Basic config. Added ebb36 v1.2 config from github and edit my pins for the stepper Motors. And Can id from Board/U2c and ebb36. Not sure if sensorless endstop pins activ or working. Get a blue message in klipper. Not red error.

Today i am not able to work on printer. Tomorrow next chance to tell you logs or any informations

safe valve
#

Give you informations and logs asap @open ocean. thx 😃

buoyant pewter
#

@safe valve Looks like a nice and clean build there. One thing I noticed that you might want to look at is the tension on the z belts. Some of them look like they are loose/misaligned. Also, if you haven't already I recommend checking out Voron's official setup guide, it will help you go through the steps of configuring things right.

safe valve
#

@buoyant pewter thx 🙂 okay

#

@open ocean here is my klippy log. got error: mcu ´mcu´ unable to conect

open ocean
safe valve
#

Thx. No stress. I am happy about any support 😅

buoyant pewter
#

It looks like you have a canbus id for the mcu but it's still not talking. It's been a while since I messed with canbus but I can try to help. I have a Micron with a manta M8P and EBB36 so we have a similar setup. If you haven't already, I'd recommend reading through Esoterical's canbus guide, it's been super useful to me and helped me get the micron running.

https://canbus.esoterical.online/

can you ssh into the host and do an lsusb to see if you even have a canbus controller functioning? it should look something like the last line on mine:

me@micron-plus:~ $ lsusb
Bus 001 Device 001: ID 1d6b:0002 Linux Foundation 2.0 root hub
Bus 001 Device 002: ID 1a40:0101 Terminus Technology Inc. Hub
Bus 001 Device 003: ID 1d50:606f OpenMoko, Inc. Geschwister Schneider CAN adapter

safe valve
#

I am using an U2C because i didn't get any correct can 120 Ohm termination. But with the U2C.

It's important if you using an USB A or the USB C of the Manta?! 🙈 Using A

Guide picture shows an USB C

I've used this guide for sure

safe valve
#

@buoyant pewter i think mistake in printer config. If i using a board like u2c i have to enter an ls/dev/serial in my config? Otherwise no comunication?

safe valve
#

one geschwister schneider is my u2c

buoyant pewter
#

So if I understand right, you have a separate, dedicated U2C board? It looks like your host can talk to another CAN adapter. Maybe that's the one built into the M8P?

Try running the following command:

ip -s -d link show

#

This will list all your links, including can. You should only have one can link named can0

buoyant pewter
#

@safe valve do you get any results when you enter:

ls /dev/serial/by-id

If you do please post it here

safe valve
#

with built in can adapter of manta m8p v2 i have trouble only. but with u2c better result...

#

when i unplug the u2c usb ..one geschwister schneider erease from screen

#

first one should be from manta. second one is my u2c

buoyant pewter
#

Yeah it looks like you have two CAN interfaces, can0 and can1. I think this may be confusing the host when it comes to talking to devices via canbus. If you use the dedicated u2c you should keep the firmware on the manta as a standard USB device per the instructions in the official manual, rather than the configuration posted on esoterical's guide. If you have the manta as a usb to can bridge you won't see it in /dev/serial/by-id. At this point I think your best option is to disconnect all the canbus stuff, and just have the mainboard with the CB1/2 or rpi you're using and start over. Reflash your board with the standard configuration, and not as a can device. Once you get the board talking again you can connect the U2C board and run ip -s -d link show again to verify you only have one can0 interface and no can1.

safe valve
#

i flashed the manta in usb can mod because thought i will use can from manta. you think the both can adapters get in trouble by themselves?

#

so wrong printer.config doesn´t matter in this case?

buoyant pewter
#

@safe valve yeah if you are using the dedicated U2C board you should not configure the manta as a u2b. I think it is confusing the host computer, because how does it know which can link to use when talking to can devices? For now i'd comment out those can uuids in the config file and reflash the manta. If you followed the steps for both katapult and klipper, you should be able to reflash just klipper. Just be sure to set it up such that you aren't using the board as a usb to canbus. Just keep it standard usb mode. When you're done you should be able to see it with /dev/serial/by-id and add it to your config file with that id.

safe valve
#

okay. so the important step is in klipper config right?

#

under communication interface?

#

katapult stock like picture?

#

this option for manta?

buoyant pewter
#

@safe valve yes. the manta should be usb only, no can

safe valve
#

reflashed and reboot now

#

No CAN1 and this one under usb

buoyant pewter
#

@safe valve good. does ls /dev/serial/by-id return anything?

safe valve
#

so one geschwister schneider only. good one step 😂

buoyant pewter
#

ok, it looks like your mainboard is still in katapult mode.

#

I did this once before. I built katapult then klipper but only flashed katapult and forgot to do klipper too. Esoterical's guide shows the following command:

python3 ~/katapult/scripts/flashtool.py -f ~/klipper/out/klipper.bin -d /dev/serial/by-id/usb-katapult_your_board_id

Just use the usb-katapult... id you got with the ls /dev/serial/by-id in that command. It should take klipper and flash it to your board. That should make it reboot to klipper next time you run lsusb

safe valve
buoyant pewter
#

@safe valve ok looks good. if you run lsusb again do you see the board running klipper now?

#

im sorry wrong command, ls /dev/serial/by-id

safe valve
#

"Bus 001 Device 003: ID 1d50:6177 OpenMoko, Inc. stm32h723xx"

buoyant pewter
#

you should now see something like "usb-Klipper etc etc..." after running ls /dev/serial/by-id

safe valve
#

pi@mainsailos:~ $ ls /dev/serial/by-id
usb-katapult_stm32h723xx_12003C001851333031373837-if00

buoyant pewter
#

hmmm

safe valve
#

hmmm is not so good 😄

buoyant pewter
#

try pressing the rst button? maybe it needs a manual reset?

safe valve
#

hm done

#

need any driver or something? its a raspberry cm4 on manta? or change to the usb c port? i dont know

safe valve
buoyant pewter
#

hey I have a question for you. Did your manta come with a small SD card with firmware on it?

#

I believe that is another way of flashing klipper. You follow the steps to make klipper.bin, flash to the SD card, then use the SD card in the manta to flash klipper.

#

Im rereading the esoterical guide. Just trying to check things. So we might have forgotten a step. First you run make menuconfig and config klipper. Then you save/quit. Then you run make clean, then make. After running make you have to stop the klipper service:

sudo service klipper stop

then you run that python script, and after that you run

sudo service klipper start

I forgot to mention stopping the klipper service. It appeared from the log you posted that it worked but I'm just double checking.

safe valve
#

hmm.. i mean a small black one, no name brand and a san disk 32 gb

buoyant pewter
#

So my concern with the small black one is that if it's in the manta board when you reboot it might keep trying to flash that instead of what you send over console. If it's not in there I'd say leave it out for now.

#

Lets try this. Put the board back into DFU mode, run lsusb to confirm, then stop the klipper service, try flashing klipper again, then restart the klipper service, and run ls /dev/serial/by-id to try again.

safe valve
#

o pages write and now 1 page written

#

pi@mainsailos:~/klipper $ ls /dev/serial/by-id
usb-Klipper_stm32h723xx_12003C001851333031373837-if00
pi@mainsailos:~/klipper $

#

mistake was no stopping klipper!

#

holy crap.... such a fight for me as klipper and voron newbie

buoyant pewter
#

it's ok I forgot to mention that step.

safe valve
buoyant pewter
#

So we got a running klipper install. so now just add that id to your printer.cfg, like so:

[mcu]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id etc etc...
restart_method: command

Then save and restart

safe valve
#

i have to enter:serial: /dev/serial/by-id/12003C001851333031373837? or serial of u2c?

buoyant pewter
#

the first one. the [mcu] is the main board, we want to get that talking so you don't get that error where you're unable to connect to the mcu.

safe valve
#

get Klipper meldet: STARTUP

Printer is not ready
The klippy host software is attempting to connect. Please
retry in a few moments.

buoyant pewter
#

take a look at the log and see what error you get. Are you still getting errors trying to connect to mcu?

safe valve
#

mcu 'mcu': Unable to connect
Once the underlying issue is corrected, use the
"FIRMWARE_RESTART" command to reset the firmware, reload the
config, and restart the host software.
Error configuring printer

buoyant pewter
#

go to devices, and click the serial tab, and refresh that

safe valve
buoyant pewter
#

ok, try clicking the copy icon to the right of that /dev/serial/by-id... and pasting it into the printer.cfg file. then do save_config to restart it and see what happens.

safe valve
#

wuuuuu!!!

#

cant believe it

buoyant pewter
#

ok, so you should just need to connect the carto probe, you flashed it to canbus mode right?

safe valve
#

correct. its under can0, katapult. made only step switch from usb to can mod

buoyant pewter
#

ok. so I recently installed a carto 4 on my printer. it's nice but there's some things to keep in mind. The module comes with flat screws for attaching the probe board. Use those and not regular screws. These screws are special and don't interfere with measurements. Also use the tool by esoterical to make sure your probe offset from the nozzle is right. You want it to be close to 3mm higher than the nozzle tip.

safe valve
#

original screws... ups.. hm 😄 could be lost in my storage

buoyant pewter
#

I saw them in a small black bag in my box

safe valve
#

were black screws ,right?

buoyant pewter
#

yeah they were black

safe valve
#

so i will looking fore. is his tool for any toolhead option?

#

my voron display runs with dsi of my cm4. its correct that default option by manta is hmdi output?

buoyant pewter
#

you might be able to get away with using some m3x6 button head machine screws

safe valve
#

i am so thankfull about your help! i worked over 3 weekes with no positive results and now first small steps forward!

#

i have m3x6 steanless installed

buoyant pewter
#

yeah, try those if you have issues find some wafer head m3x6 screws, like these:

https://www.amazon.com/Foyoram-M3x16mm-Hexagon-Assemblies-Stainless/dp/B0D25XNN6Z?th=1

#

In the cartographer's documentation there should be a link to the tool used to check spacing and offset of the probe from the nozzle

#

only thing is, you'd need a working 3d printer to make this.

safe valve
#

original screws are lost in space for sure

#

would try my stainless otherwise order some like your amazon link

buoyant pewter
#

The BTT manual has something about the hdmi thing. It's on page 25. You'll have to install a driver and restart. Just check you have the right ribbon cable. I had to order a different one from what came with my display on my Micron kit. It originally came with a BTT 3.5 SPI display, and it sucked. So I upgraded to a 4.3 waveshare but had to order a different cable because the m8p reversed the pinout on the DSI connector.

safe valve
#

i have correct cable. its fine. ordered from aliexpress. so i have to install driver only

buoyant pewter
#

Ok. the metal contacts are on the same side right? That's what I had to use

safe valve
#

yes

#

and correct pitch wide 😄

buoyant pewter
#

good. ok I gotta go do stuff around the house. Good luck!

safe valve
#

what time is it now? at your location

#

thank you very much for your advice and support 🙌 one step closer to my voron

buoyant pewter
#

2:30pm. Need to catch up on household chores.

safe valve
#

8:36 pm haha

safe valve
#

@buoyant pewter i have 3-3.05 mm and 15 mm distance to nozzle center