#Voron 2.4 350mm LDO AWD Please send help lol
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please delete the pictures with the chamber heater. cover it via MS paint or whatever
this is agains the #rules
deleted it
thanks. a picture from the front is still required, u can cover it up as i said
we need to see the umbilical at the exhaust, thats why i wrote "cover" and not "cut it out" ๐
i highly recommend to install proper strain relief on the toolhead.
if u keep it like that u can set a timer to when issues knock on your door. not good
Wouldn't this add more curves and strain to the wire?(from toolhead board plug towards the PUG mount?
no because u adjust the cable so it makes a nice an loose S curve
Hopefully i have long enough cables will be printing it, would these help with graphs too?
no but this is very basic knowledge to prevent headache
did u manually sync motors by hand the first time after building, and now u are using the motor sync klipper addon BEFORE each single test? before each single print? before each single precise move? (brush etc.)
This is exactly what i did, when I finished assembly, I ran the motor sync macro first because i didn't understand how it was before( motor sync then tighten the grub screw i thought), when i found out I did the manual syncing first once posted ing LDO AWD github, then have been running motor sync now, ive tried both input shaping graphs with and without motor sync seems similar, but yes I have it added in my start macro so it will sync before printing starts
Do one input shaper test with carto adxl please
Will do after printing this benchy, i think my settings are not fast though i only change accels but it doesnt go brrr like those youtube clips
I went with toolhead as per reth suggestion because carto reading is worse but will do it for comparison
unfortunately this is totally the wrong place for "bbrrr" as we focus on basic help ๐ Cube looks good so in this term there is nothing for us do to honestly. just trying to see if we can reduce the second peak on X
Is the first peak, the more focused one? I thought the first was the bad one
hopefully u did read the first part of that message and made yourself very aware of what i wrote ๐
"second" was more like as counted, u have 2 peaks. but yes most likely the first one
Yup did read that thank you
doing adxl input shaping now
thanks.
install one of the PUG mounts i linked. then rerun with toolhead.
alright will post an update once that is printed and installed
I have seen u crossposted in #1407141831975763998 message multiple times, so that means we can close this post here to avoid crossposting?
Tried to delet thjs post, i thought i was able to but i guess not, please close this post, sorry for the inconvenience
will do. Next time please decide for ONE place to avoid crossposting
can I reopen this?, @stable vortex ask me to remake a post but if its possible to just use this one?
@charred kite @stable vortex mentioned you might be able to help in my vibration profile?
@charred kite I am no bueno at setting up sensorless.
Can you lend a hand.
@lime swallow you can use this thread
For some reason, im still. Homing fine after tmc autotune
Im not sure why it sounds like this
@stable vortex I replaced my X beam to CF tube and Vitalii Live idlers
@lime swallow
- What panels do you have on?
- 6mm or 9mm belts?
- they look like stock GT2 and not EPDM correct? what belt tension?
- Motor type
-Driver & Run current setting - cnc XOL carriage mount?
- if not what plastic?
- what ADXL are you using? if its carto what V
@lime swallow the numbers you are getting look reasonable in the acceleration area. I think the vibrations are your motors
you might be able to improve the %vibr with adjustments to the umbilical
Structural panel - FR4 6mm
6mm GT2(not EPDM)
Motor- Nema 17 Siboor motors
Driver 2240 Running at 1.8a
CNC cartographer mount thats trimmed down to fit a4t
Using Lis2dw In my SHT 36 v3
look at the Y result closer, are you sure?
its actually confusing to me that I went CF tube for the grantry to be lighter and rigid to Improve Y but it improved X instead im confused
im comparing to other Y axis AWD and im not even close to them
"Using Lis2dw In my SHT 36 v3" toolhead ADXL is useless dont use it, noozle probe or a single board probe like beacon
I will rerun again in carto but it looks similar to these ones
you dont have actual structure panels either, FR4 is not doing anything here so its just a naked 2020 frame with gt 6mm belts
1.1 %vibr. It is likely due to peak2, peak2 is likely umbilical
I strongly disagree with your statement. Toolhead board is a preferred adxl to use
That main peak is actually y not z.
wasnt aware of this i thought it was rigid
failed to click that it was from the toolhead board so yeah fair
@mental sedge this is not an optimization channel. This is basic resonance.
Optimization can be handled in #unicorn_chasing
ok well we can agree to disagree
Feel free to have all the disagreements/discussions in #unicorn_chasing
@lime swallow asked for help on his printer and linked me here
@lime swallow this channel is just basic resonance help. It is not for optimizing.
With respect to awd the goal we set is 10k at 0 vibr% on ei. Anything over that is considered unicorn chasing
ok cool
anyway @lime swallow , you're basically where a naked 350mm frame and 6mm GT2 belts can take you, bigger belts, actual structural panels etc will be needed to get more out of your printer then what currently stands
@mental sedge
how do i get access to this channel?
Get a serial
ahhh When i got this I probably misread it I though this is stiffer and more rigid that aluminum panels
ahhh if I dis a bunch of mod in it would i still qualify for a serial?
You can still get a serial with a bunch of mods so long as the base is a voron
Thank you will try to get a different toolhead and post the results here too for your expertise
Your acceleration looks acceptable to me, that's more than double what I'm getting with my 2wd on X. Are you running 24 or 48v?
Just 24v, expectations for scaling was probably too high i really want high Y accels but most of the people I ask says this is normal awd 6mm belt performance any more and I would need to switch either gantry or 9mm
Once the toolhead that I want gets finalized and installed im hoping to get higher
Or maybe not but, i guess i should probably target lower cruise ratio and higher scv
Well, it all depends on how much money you want to throw at it..lol. I'll let you know what mine is like when I'm done with it, but it's probably going to be a couple months before it's running again.
I'm doing the LDO 6mm AWD, LDO speedy power motors, 48V with TMC5160s, vitalii live xy idlers, and dragon burner on my 350mm 2.4.
Oohh i see im curious if your accels would be different than mine if you go 48v and ldo motors curioua as to how much difference it will be, if it is I might try those motors too but im hesitant moving to 48v though dont wanna redo my electronics bay ๐ญ
I'm excited to see how it performs. Just gonna take a long time, I don't get much play time unfortunately
Its better to take your time too though, did you order your awd kit already? Monolith might be just around the corner if you havent
I did. Got everything except the live idler kit, DB cnc mount, and my ebb36. Waiting on them to ship
You will get just as good performance with any awd gantry kit.
Performance wise they are all about the same +- a few hundred accel
This is kinda what I'm calling max performance for this machine. If I've still got a need for speed after these mods, I'm going to purpose build a machine for it with smaller print area and bigger extrusions
DB cnc mount also work with yavoth as well right?
now that i get to the point where im getting the norm AWD results, what other ways can I do to improve vibration profile? also to achieve higher scv?
As stated every awd gantry will get you about the same result.
Any modification to improve accels will work on any awd gantry.
Your biggest improvement to the vibrations profile will probably come from different motors
like switch to a different brand? i currently have siboor
LDO 2504 long shaft appear to be a good default motor for awd. I myself am using them. I would stay away from LDO kraken motors. They appear to be better in 2wd.
as for other types of motors I do not know
are you running 48v? also what good zones of speed are you getting with this motors?
why is symmetry low but you have a massive green zone?
i wonder if 48v also does this, it cleans the zones
this is also high speed? hahah mine dont look like that hahah
what cruise ratio and scv is this?
No idea, I'm doing regular DB, and moving to RB when I decide on a uhf hotend
looking forward in your build wanna see how it looks ๐
Me too! I'll keep you updated. Maybe I'll start a build log if I can figure out how
make it go brrr
This is prusa slicer boss edition
https://github.com/mjonuschat/PrusaSlicer/releases
GitHub
G-code generator for 3D printers (RepRap, Makerbot, Ultimaker etc.) - mjonuschat/PrusaSlicer