Again, I purchased this printer used, and trying to get it running again after almost 18 months of downtime.. I've upgraded the X from MGN9 to MGN12, along w/ X printed parts. I've also switched from a Euclid to a Eddy, and really have no idea what is causing me issues. It's showing an error about "Option 'pin' is not valid in section 'probe'. I've commented out the entire probe section that I could tell. Honestly, I'm thinking of starting fresh w/ a base v2.4 350mm config, w/ a Octopus v1.1 board.
#Swap from Euclid to Eddy, lost in config hell.
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
well start with posting your printer.cfg
Working on grabbing that, sorry, little slow due to wife asking me questions..
all good
Here is my printer.cfg, there are includes in it.. If those are needed, let me know.
That's the error I'm currently getting.
this is a mess
100000% agree! That's why I'm debating starting fresh. Since I purchased the printer used, and have changed stuff, since getting it. I went from a FFC x/y, to a Nitehawl SB gen1, w/ G2E Twinsor, and now with a Revo Voron, soon w/ a 60w heater and ObXidian 500 nozzle.
ahhh your like me
It had a Water cooled dragon on it, before the hotend blew out due to an adhesion issue..
spend money break things
Isn't it a break/fix world ? ;P
naaaaaaaaaaa and im quickly learning that
get printer runnning then stop touchiung is my new plan
I'm 100000000000% with you now.. LOL I think w/ the current hardware I have, it will be good to go for that.. I had a lot of issues w/ Euclid and nozzle crashing into bed, and me having to buy multiple new PEI build plates..
I have fluid, as that's what it came with, but I also hae mainsail installed on port 81.
I have Sexbolt Z-endstop also..
ok install eddy-ng
What is that?!?! LOL I just followed the BTT Eddy wiki
its 1000% better than stock eddy gives it tap and other fun things
and honestly better support the eddy-ng guy is super cool
I'm down to install it w/ a clean install. I don't want to carry over anything from the Euclid.. I REALLY don't want to have to buy anymore build plates right now.. LOL
I feel that
I'll clean out my entire ~/printer_data/config folder and start fresh with it.
Yea, I had West3D build plates also.. Killed 2 of them.. Now I have a Fysect and a NiB West3D.. Waiting for everything to be working w/o bed collisions to put the West3D plate back on.. LOL
whats your pin for part cooling fan
and hot end fan
ok you need to update "MCU EBBCan" , pi's info', hot end fan, part cooling fan, but this should be 90%
i dont know what 90% of those include are id also suggest going thru and getting rid of what you can
I don't have EBBCan, I have NiteHawk SB, which is USB based. Hotend fan is under nitehawk-sb.cfg
Yea just change that to your nighthawk stuff
What is this ?
[mcu cartographer]
serial: /dev/serial/by-id/usb-Cartographer_stm32g431xx_520032000550315551333620-if00
Oh I thought I removed that. Just delete it. That’s a different probe
k
I see a bunch of cartographer stuff, but it's also related to stuff I would have, like ADXL..
It might not have saved. Let me check it real quick
I should have removed all that
Yea, there is..
Like all this.
[temperature_sensor EBB36]
sensor_type: Generic 3950
sensor_pin: EBBCan:PA0
pullup_resistor: 2200
[temperature_sensor BTT-MCU]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu # MCU internal temperature sensor.
[temperature_sensor BTT-PI]
sensor_type: temperature_host # Host system internal temperature sensor.
[temperature_sensor cartographer]
sensor_type: temperature_mcu
sensor_mcu: cartographer
min_temp: 5
max_temp: 105
You didn’t have Adxl in the printer cfg. So I assumed it was in an include. So just removed it. I’m guessing it didn’t save when I finished. And that’s just a auto save from half way done
ADXL is all included in nitehawk-sb.cfg
I figured. So I removed the references in that cfg. Let me go resave and resend
Here is my nitehawk-sb.cfg
Oh shit so you have a bunch of of issues with that original cfg. It still had the old extruder pins.
LOL It's a mess.. Think of a rats nest.. But like a rats nest in a rats nest..
LOL After commenting out the [probe] lines in nitehawk-sb.cfg the printer is back online w/o errors.. :\ I hate when settings are nested..
Like I said, I think I might be better off starting from a completely fresh basic v2.4 config, and slowing adding my extras to it..
what thermistor do u have in that hot end
Revo Voron 40w has sensor_type: ATC Semitec 104NT-4-R025H42G
ok night hawk stuff was added now finishing eddy
I'm pretty sure my NH S B config is good, so I can include that existing config.
yoou have bed mesh commands in eddy and mainn cfg
[include tacho_macros.cfg]
that was in nighthawk cfg
the config_backup.cfg is good, moonraker_obico_macros.cfg, neopixels.cfg, led_progress.cfg, knomi.cfg, bedfans-dualcontrol.cfg, nitehawk-sb.cfg, stealthburner_leds.cfg, K-ShakeTune/*.cfg should all be good.
didnt add it not sure what it is so you can add it if needed
The tacho_macros.cfg is just a simple marco for tach pin check..
so just include a dir instead ?
no create macros.cfg and add [include macros.cfg] and add all youyr macros to one file
thats generally the sttandard unless its like big stuff like mmu macros and such
This is my current macros.cfg.
[gcode_macro HEAT_SOAK]
#uncomment HEAT_SOAK lines in PRINT_START to enable
gcode:
G0 X185 Y185 Z10 ; move toolhead to centre
PAUSE
M106 S255 ; run cooling fans at full power
M117
UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=SOAK_TIME DURATION=600 ; resume after 600 seconds
[delayed_gcode SOAK_TIME]
gcode:
RESUME
M107 ; turn off cooling fans
[gcode_macro SKIP_HEAT_SOAK]
gcode:
RESUME
UPDATE_DELAYED_GCODE ID=SOAK_TIME DURATION=1
[gcode_macro UNLOAD_FILAMENT]
variable_unload_distance: 100
variable_purge_distance: 25
gcode:
{% set speed = params.SPEED|default(300) %}
{% set max_velocity = printer.configfile.settings['extruder'].max_extrude_only_velocity * 60 %}
SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=unload_state
G91
G92 E0
G1 E{purge_distance} F{speed} # purge
G1 E-{unload_distance} F{max_velocity} # fast-unload
RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=unload_state
[gcode_macro LOAD_FILAMENT]
variable_load_distance: 75
variable_purge_distance: 25
gcode:
{% set speed = params.SPEED|default(300) %}
{% set max_velocity = printer.configfile.settings['extruder'].max_extrude_only_velocity * 60 %}
SAVE_GCODE_STATE NAME=load_state
G91
G92 E0
G1 E{load_distance} F{max_velocity} # fast-load
G1 E{purge_distance} F{speed} # purge
RESTORE_GCODE_STATE NAME=load_state
oh yea combine all your macros into there
I'm OCD, so I like to keep each "extra" in it's own config..
That way it's easier for me to look at specific extra configs.
then copy how i have it ffor my k2m
What is K2M ?
take forever but once its running its super easy to swap out parts beacuse its all alias's
kobra 2 max, its my old printer, its just an example of how i orginise my klipper
Ah
but thats a good starting point to get it runnning right
How do the hardware/software folders get loaded?
theres 2 printer.cfg files
AH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
Do you use the same backup system as I do ? Backing up to github ?
I don't remember who provided me the setup, but I feel like it was someone here on this discord..
yea that config is super outdated tho
My config is over 2 years old.. The printer has been down for roughly 18 months.. I bought it roughly 3 year ago..
It's after 10pm here, so Imma crash out, and start working on this tomorrow..
ok good luck
Is this needed ? Right below it is the second section.
[heater_fan hotend_fan] # hotend fan
pin: EBBCan:PD2 # Hotend fan pin
heater: extruder # Associated heating device
heater_temp: 50.0 # Temperature to start the fan
tachometer_pin: EBBCan:PA4
#cycle_time: 0.00003 # Cycle time
## HEF
[heater_fan hotend_fan]
pin: nhk:gpio5
tachometer_pin: nhk:gpio16
tachometer_ppr: 2
Guessing I don't need the first section..
the way klipper config works is, any section with the same header, [heater_fan hotend_fan] in this case, are merged and any variables in the subsequent section overwrite variables with the same name in the previous section, i.e. last variable value wins
if you were to remove the first [heater_fan hotend_fan], you'd loose the heater: extruder and heater_temp: 50.0 variables
I would only remove duplicate lines, merging non-dup to 1 section.
So I have the new config ready I think. What would he the best option to start fresh ? Renamed printer_data folder, starting fresh ?
Oh and do I need a variables file ?
Looks like I'm getting an error about the shaketune section.
either delete that section or add shaketune, its great
I had it before.. So I'm not sure why it's giving that error..
if you've just done an update, sometime modules get removed/unregistered and need re-installing
I'm doing a fresh install, not update.
pi@v24-Printer:~ $ find ./ -iname K-ShakeTune
./printer_data.org/config/K-ShakeTune
./printer_data/config/K-ShakeTune
So I'll run wget -O - https://raw.githubusercontent.com/Frix-x/klippain-shaketune/main/install.sh | bash again
Looks like it needed an update anyways..
[INFO] Old K-Shake&Tune virtual environment found, cleaning it!
that doesn't prove it's installed, ls ~/klipper/klippy/extras/shaketune and see if the python modules exist
Oh, nothing changed there from my side.. But regardless I'm running the installer script again to make sure it's all setup right.
Oh but I did update klipper, so that may have done it..
i didn't say anything had changed, i wanted to see if the shaketune python modules existed
that's what i said here #1456499019877453905 message
Yea, sorry, I like to talk things out.. I agreed w/ you if that didn't come across.. Just waiting for install to finish..
I just ran the installer before I saw the cmd to check if it was install is all.. 🙂
Ok, so that seems to have fixed the section error, but now getting warnings from moonraker..
Here is that section..
## Klippain Shake&Tune automatic update management
[update_manager Klippain-ShakeTune]
type: git_repo
origin: https://github.com/Frix-x/klippain-shaketune.git
path: ~/klippain_shaketune
virtualenv: ~/klippain_shaketune-env
requirements: requirements.txt
system_dependencies: system-dependencies.json
primary_branch: main
managed_services: klipper
I'm sure if I remove that section, it will go away, but since I use it, I don't want to remove it, since it does need to be updated..
Commented out that section for now, and no more warnings, or errors.
I'll head out to the garage shortly to make sure that it still homes.
the virtualenv changed, it should be virtualenv: ~/klippy-env
Sucks that it doesn't give that info in the warning, rather then just puking out the warning..
that's because moonraker knows nothing about shaketune, that config block is teaching it about shaketune, you teach it wrong and it gets it wrong from then on until you teach it the correct way
Yea, I get that, would just be nice to have some more smarts in it is all.. I figured it was the env, and was trying to find the new one, but didn't see if in the install.sh.. Or at least nothing that stood out to me..
Oh... I guess this line was it, now that I know what I was looking for.. KLIPPER_VENV_PATH="${KLIPPER_VENV:-${HOME}/klippy-env}"
I kept looking at these 2 lines..
OLD_K_SHAKETUNE_VENV="${HOME}/klippain_shaketune-env"
K_SHAKETUNE_PATH="${HOME}/klippain_shaketune"
:\
how do you expect moonraker to be smart when it knows nothing about shaketune?
If it's being told something about it, and the env is wrong, I would think it could be smart enough to say it's the ENV that's wrong, since that was all that changed. I mean it's being told about it, it's just that the env changed.
Some type of logic, of I knew about this here, but it's not there anymore, so "Hey user, it's not where it used to be, check env" type of thing.
but how would it know what the virtualenv should be?
the [update_manager] block told it the wrong location, it tried to look there and it doesn't exist, and the error told you exactly that
I totally missed the fact that it said the virtualenv was bad.. :\ So it does have the logic I was talking about. It was just teh ID10T behind the keyboard that didn't see it.. 😉
Side bar, how did you get a ERCF v2 serial ? 😉 I built mine, but printer has been down, so it hasn't been setup yet.. I'd like to get a serial if possible..
i believe v2 serials are now closed since the v3 has now been released
pretty much re-designed from the ground up, pretty much every printed part changed
biggest change is it's now direct drive rather than using the 80t pulley and belt
Oh wow!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Massive changes..
yup
Makes me sad that I bought a v2 kit and built it now.. LOL
That's actually what killed my hotend.. Printing the parts for the filament inlet tubes I needed..
I had a print failure, and a massive blob on the hotend, blowing out the front face of the SB toolhead, and dragon hotend mount I had..
So looking at eddy-ng, it says that it needs to make physical contact w/ the build plate.. The issue is that my Revo sits below the Eddy.. So how am I supposed to do this ?
Also, my printer just tried to home Z using the Eddy rather than the Sexbolt that I have installed..
The lowest I can get the Eddy is at the bottom of the Revo "large circle" just above the nozzle tip..
It's level with that part tho..
Which seems to be about 2mm above the build plate I guess..
So here is the current printer.cfg.
If you need the includes, let me know, and I can provide them.
The toolhead in is the middle of the build plate.
what toolhead
StealthBurner as far as I know
That's what I've been printing parts for and they fit at least..
I have this in the klicky_variables.cfg file..
# if a separate Z endstop switch is in
# use, specify the coordinates of the switch here (Voron).
# Set to 0 to have the probe move to center of bed
variable_z_endstop_x: 238.00
variable_z_endstop_y: 352
That's from the original config, which had a Euclid probe using Klicky config..
Ok there’s an eddy offset tool
What will that do if I want to use the sexbolt as the z endstop ?
Or do I not need that anymore ?
This is the Eddy.cfg I have also..
no whats the endstop pin for sexbolt
your z endstop will have something like "virtual probe: ebbcan P10
you just need to remove it and just put the sexbolt pin
z endstop is set to the correct pin..
[stepper_z]
step_pin: PF11 # Z-axis motor pulse pin
dir_pin: PG3 # Z-axis motor direction pin setting
enable_pin: !PG5 # Z-axis motor enable pin setting
rotation_distance: 40 # Active pulley circumference mm (2GT-20T pulley 40, 2GT-16T pulley 32)
gear_ratio: 80:16 # reduction ratio
microsteps: 16 # microsteps
endstop_pin: PG10 #PG10 # Limit switch interface
position_max: 330 # Maximum Z-axis print height 350mm=340
position_min: -5 # Soft Limit Minimum Stroke
homing_speed: 20 # Reset speed - maximum 20
second_homing_speed: 3 # Secondary reset speed - maximum 10
homing_retract_dist: 0 # Retreat distance
position_endstop: 0
But doesn't Klipper need to be told where the z endstop is ?
position_endstop: 0
kinda
the endstop is telling klikpper where 0 is
Why does my old variables file have a z endstop location in x and y then ?
id have to see it to know
Here is the variables file.
I can flip back to the old printer.cfg and get a klipper.log for you..
no thats just telling it where the endstop is for use in some macro
Ah
you got some crazy configs
So I need to find the old G28 command ?
hold the z endstop triggered then send the command again
ok so its working
also this means the tip of the nozzle touches the bed not the probe
And when I do a Home all, this is where my printer is..
that looks correct
It should be touching the probe, NOT the bed...
its either 5mm or 10 mm above the bed
Why would I want it to touch the bed, if I have a Z endstop ?
Oh not, I force stopped it, to make sure it didn't crash..
ohhhhh ok i see what you mean now
If it's supposed to be homing Z, it's not supposed to be in the middle of the bed..
Homeing XY works, but Z goes to middle of bed, instead of the z endstop
This is home XY
Here is klippy.log output from my firmware_restart I just did.
So how can I get my printer to continue using the sexbolt z-endstop for homing ?
home_xy_position in the [safe_z_home] is set to 175,175, which is presumably the middle of your bed?
you should set that to the x/y coordinates for your sexbolt
Awesome, thank you!
yw!
So I would use these cords, basically, right ?
variable_z_endstop_x: 238.00
variable_z_endstop_y: 352
And is it x,y or y,x ?
if those are the actual x/y coordinates of your sexbolt, yes
and, yes, x,y
That's what I used w/ my old config, and it hit the sexbolt everytime.
OK, last question. In regards to Eddy mounting and calibration. I was reading that the Eddy should be 2mm above nozzle, but also that I have to paper test the probe to get it at the right height ?
Paper test, like doing bed screws..
Well hopefully last question before printer is back online.. LOL
No once you do eddy calibration command. It will have you lower the nozzle down to the build plate with a peice of paper under it. You’ll confirm. Then it will take a bunch of measurements and be good
OK, but the Eddy will never be able to touch the bed..
The revo nozzle tip will hit bed before eddy
So I'm not exactly sure how I'm supposed to do this calibration, I guess..
Unless its the nozzle tip I'm paper testing, and not the eddy..
Ill see if I can find a YT video..
Hmm.... When it tried to move to the z-endstop position.. :\
Move out of range: 238.000 352.000 10.000 [0.000]
Seems like positon cords have changed now w/ the new config..
Figuring out new cords now. At least it's homing XY so I can do that..
PERFECT!
Ok, now to figureout Eddy stuff..
Really appreciate your guys' help!
yes, it's the nozzle tip that touches the paper
Ok, that makes way more sense.. LOL
So now I can Home All w/o issues..
It hits the z-stop now.
Ok, so do I need to recompile and flash my mainboard for klipper to support the eddy, or am I good to go now ?
I have eddy-ng installed.
Looks like I need to make changes to macros before I can really use the Eddy..
Time to do some reading.. https://github.com/vvuk/eddy-ng/wiki
When updating eddy, do you always have to press the reset and plug the usb cable in ? Or is there a simpler way to do it ?
This can be done on the BTT Eddy USB ?
I don't see anything about Eddy on there..
I have BTT Eddy USB, not Duo.
Esoterical’s USB Flashing guide
A guide for setting up flashing USB Klipper to various hardware on 3D printers
So no matter what, I still need to use the boot button, and unplug/plug the USB cable.. What a PITA, when everything is already put together..
it's not like you need to do it every day, i've flashed all my mcu's exactly once in like 4 years
LOL I update more than that.. And having to disassemble the toolhead to flash is a real pain..
My Eddy is mounted in the X-Carriage center..
why are you flashing it so often? you normally flash it once and you're done until klipper tells you it needs re-flashing
I even made a script that updates all my boards..
This printer has been down for over 18 months, so I'm having to flash a lot of stuff to get it all up to date..
ok, so you're probably going to have to flash eddy once and that's it
This will be the 3rd time I've flashed the eddy.. First time having to do it w/ everything put together..
I just don't want to have to pull the toolhead apart when there is another update is all.
again, why are you flashing it so often?
Initial setup. Messed up the first flash, second flash worked. Now I need to flash it again.
Just like having to flash my Octopus v1.1 that's in the v2.4. I didn't want to have to flip it over everytime I needed to update, so I installed Katapult, and got everything setup that way.
Please don't take anything I'm saying as complaining. I just like to make things simple for updates.
if the second flash worked, why flash it a third time? i'm trying to understand why you think it need flashing
i know nothing about eddy, but, does it not support flashing via katapult as well?
I have the USB Eddy. I'm trying to flash katapult to it, so I can then flash klipper to it, and then not have to worry about having to use the boot button to flash anymore.
So that's why I'm flashing it again..
gotcha, so this'll be the last time you need to access the button and the usb on the eddy
Exactly.. 😉
So time to go take the toolhead apart..
Damn it.. Looks like my X ganrty isn't square after replacing the X-Carriage.. :\
So now my nozzle isn't hitting the z-stop.. :\
If I don't want to have to pull the entire z/x gantry, what's the easiest way to get this squared back up ?
this is the recommended method
Sadly I can't use z-locks, as I have LEDs on the top side 2020s.. :\ But I'll read up on it, and see what I can work out..
I already printed them and everything.. :\
Hmm... I don't think that's my issue.. The only thing that isn't squared, is the X-gantry, due to me most likely not being able to get the belts lined up correctly..
And it looks like the belts are 1.6 instead of 1.9 ? Using a belt tension tester from West3D
Oh, nvm, it is what I need.. Ok.. Time to bite the bullet..
Think I will move the printer inside to continue working on it tho. Will make life a lot easier..
I feel like if I just get the belts the correct tension, I'll be good, but I'll work on what I can.
Hmm... What does this mean ? v0.13.0-452-g8dd798ebb-dirty-20260104_152943-v24-Printer
That's the fw on the Eddy..
k
means files have been changed
Hmm... Just trying to make sure that my printer is seeing the Eddy, and running PROBE_EDDY_NG_STATUS..
Ah, looks like I do have to recompile and reflash everything w/ the eddy-ng patched code..
So just finished compiling and reinstalling klipper on everything, and still getting the Unknown command when running the ng status command
No matter what I do, it doesn't appear to work..
hop in the sovol discord, they have a eddy-ng channel and they all are super good
I'll see if I can find the channel..
presumably, you've installed eddy-ng ?
reflashing klipper on everything won't help as eddy-ng is a klipper python module that runs on the rpi
The documentation says that you have to reflash after you install and recompile klipper tho.
only if you haven't already flashed klipper, which i thought you'd already done here #1456499019877453905 message ?
Its confusing, since docs are unclear. I had originally flashed klipper before installing eddy-ng.
so you should be good
Then I flashed with katapult, and flashed eddy-ng klipper to it. But I still get unknown command when running the ng status command.
even after running the eddy-ng installation ?
Yup
re-run step 2 and post the output
Ill be back in about 2 hours.
I'm back. re-run step 2 from which document ?
that looks ok
presumably, you have a [probe_eddy_ng] section?
I didn't see anything about a probe_eddy_ng section. This is my current printer.cfg.
without that, klipper won't load probe_eddy_ng.py, which contains the definition for the PROBE_EDDY_NG_STATUS command
Ok, so where do I find the info on that section ?
click the link in my previous post #1456499019877453905 message 😉
I have this instead of ng..
[probe_eddy_current btt_eddy]
sensor_type: ldc1612
#sensor_type: btt_eddy
i2c_mcu: eddy
i2c_bus: i2c0f
x_offset: 0
y_offset: 21.42
z_offset: 10
So just change the _current to _ng ?
Oh and change sensor type
Or do I need the _current one also ?
I don't see it in the docs you sent me. So I'll say it needs to be changed.
Lemme try that
I get this now after a restart.
it does say here:
Make sure to delete the
probe_eddy_currentandtemperature_probesections from the saved variables area at the bottom of printer.cfg.
so, i'd guessprobe_eddy_currentisn't required
Yea, I don't have any variables at the bottom, since this is a fresh printer.cfg
So I figured that wasn't relavent to what I was doing.
so, you'll need to remove z_offset from the [probe_eddy_ng btt_eddy] section
Done, I'm making sure I have the right temperature_probe line also.
Only diff between the 2 temp probe sections for Eddy is btt_eddy has #horizontal_move_z: 2.. So I should be good.
i have to step away for a few hours, i'll be back later
Hmmm.. Just tried to QGL, and getting an error. Drive current 15 not calibrated
So looks like I got it all working. Now I just need to get the X squared, and do it all over again.. LOL
@languid pecan Sorry for the late ping, but for the X-Gantry work, should I have loosened the belts before removing the x-carriage ?
which x gantry work are we talking about?
When I replaced the x-carriage I just removed the belts clamps and replaced it. I did not loosen the belt tention for the A/B belts.
ah, you should loosen the tensioners so that you can apply the correct amount of tension on the belts after the carriage has bee installed
Ok, thanks. That is clearly where I screwed up when doing my swap. So I'll see if I can redo the belts w/ loosened tension..
Sweet, loosened belt tension, got belts back where they are supposed to be, then "tuned" my belt tension, and everything seems to be back to normal..
Ok, so new config doesn't let me hit my nozzle brush anymore. What should I look at the fix that ?
What that be this line ? position_max: 350
Under stepper_y
Yup, that was what I needed.
Just waiting for some eSun PLA+ to dry, so I can run some test prints.
Is there a way to make CANCEL_PRINT run right away ?
klipper sends commands to the mcu in batches, so, depending on where in the batch the CANCEL_PRINT is, it may happen right away, or it may happen at some indeterminate time in the future
Yea, that's what I've been noticing. Ok, so it's Klipper that is doing it
yep
Man, fighting w/ Macros sucks!!! LOL
Damn it.. Just figured out that I had my heater upside down... :\ That prolly threw off all my extruder PID tuning I did..
Damn it.. Now I'm getting this error..
08:21:06
!! Tap failed
08:21:06
!! Tap failed
08:21:06
!! EDDYng: Tap failed: 5 errors, last: Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Watchdog Error) at toolhead z=-0.010
08:21:06
// Tap 5: failed (Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Watchdog Error))
08:21:06
!! EDDYng: Tap failed with Z at -0.010: Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Watchdog Error)
08:21:04
// Tap 4: failed (Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Watchdog Error))
08:21:04
!! EDDYng: Tap failed with Z at -0.007: Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Watchdog Error)
08:21:02
// Tap 3: failed (Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Over-range Error Watchdog Error))
08:21:02
!! EDDYng: Tap failed with Z at -0.020: Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Over-range Error Watchdog Error)
08:21:00
// Tap 2: failed (Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Under-range Error Watchdog Error))
08:21:00
!! EDDYng: Tap failed with Z at -0.015: Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Under-range Error Watchdog Error)
08:20:58
// Tap 1: failed (Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Under-range Error Watchdog Error))
08:20:58
!! EDDYng: Tap failed with Z at -0.015: Error during homing probe: Sensor error (Under-range Error Watchdog Error)
Finished a Temp tower, and tried to do a Flow Rate Pass 1, and started getting this error..
So I ran PROBE_EDDY_NG_SETUP again, and it seems to have fixed it..
its a bit finicky, once you get the printer running and stop making changes it will be good, but after every little change i had to rrecalibrate it
Ok, I'm going to say this issue is closed. I seem to have everything related to the Eddy working now. So I just have to finish fighting w/ my macros, and I should be good to go.. Already able to print some calibration parts, and they look really good.
good to hear! 👍🏼
Thanks for all the assistance!