BTT octopus Fried?

[warm kayak]

Here are the active lights after the pop

also /dev/serial/by-id is gone and its only serial0 regardless of usb, its really over i guess, if anyone sees this please make sure im not missing anything big so i dont fry another board

added note to the mystery is that the probe is a klicky pcb and the light is constantly on now. (no obvious burns or problems with the traces) could the light on the pcb mean its shorted for good?

[burnt gorge]

Haven't got to the wiring stage yet on my own first 2.4 build. But I have used similar boards before on other printers. Have you tried labelling and disconnecting all the cables from the board then seeing if it shows up again in klipper? Or if the board gets detected?

A pop could be a fuse snapping somewhere. This could be on the board itself or on the SSR. Since everything is heating up, I think it could be either/both of them could have popped. Check the fuses on the board, they're standard car ones so replacing those should be easy to find. You can check if they're popped by looking through to see if the metal on the inside is snapped. If it is, replace the fuse. That wouldn't necessarily explain the smell, but it could because a snapped fuse would get hot.

Did you get magic smoke anywhere? I.e. after the pop and smell, did you see smoke coming off anything?

If it's the SSR, I would say leave the bed disconnected, and see if the hotend is heating up. If it is, then again it could be the board fuse.

The wiring is hard to follow because we can only see the board and not where they route to/from.

Does the board itself show any lights anymore?

For reference, here's what the fuses should look like stock

You'll notice that the U bend loop inside is in one piece.

Here's some good examples that might help:

Although I'm sure someone else might be able to help you diagnose it further. Hope that helps

[fierce spoke]

Fuses can be blown but still look fine (and just have a tiny gap in it somewhere), only way to know for sure is with a multimeter. But if a fuse blows you probably wouldn't get all those power status LEDS.

I think best way forward is to disconnect everything from the octopus, and only hook it up to the pi via USB (and set the jumper to power it from there) and see if you can talk to the MCU at all (either to klipper, or in dfu mode).

[warm kayak]

Unfortunately the fuses are not blown and the MCU is not even being recognized at all (checked through ssh with checking /dev/serial

[fierce spoke]

What about with lsusb? It should also look slightly different there if it is running klipper as normal or is in DFU mode