#Bruiser: Black and Blue V2.4 350 LDO (first Voron build)
49 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Organizing the parts with Gridfinity
Looks good! I can’t wait to start mine
Looks good!!!! Do you plan on doing the filamatrix mod to the SB? What has been the hardest part so far?
@main drift So far the hardest part has been uncertainty about consequential actions: specifically about what belt lengths to cut as they were not pre cut. For both Z and XY. In both cases I ended up watching multiple videos and scouring the documentation before actually cutting. Everything else has been pretty straightforward so far. I printed out Gridfinity bins with printed labels for all the small parts and that was time consuming but I think really sped me up.
I do have a box turtle kit with all the printed parts (felt like more parts than the Voron!) ready and waiting for me and will likely switch to a filamatrix, but as a second toolhead so if I screw that up I can always fall back. I am tempted by a knomi even though it’s kind of silly, and curious about switching to an A4T or something later. Down the road I think I’d want multiple tool heads, but am waiting on the INDX and how that goes before investing in a strategy for that. For now the box turtle will work for multi color prints
thanks! I also wondered about the belts, and someone in some video said theyre are supposed to be the same length as well
Yes, especially the XY ones. For the Z, they provide minimum measurements in the manual but I had missed that until I saw someone point them out in a video. For the carriage, you have to run the uncut belt through everything, give a few inches extra, cut that, then pull it out and match it tooth by tooth to make a matching cut
I thoguht to use the Box Turtle you had to do the Filamatrix mod?
I’m also uncertain about how well I greased my bearings. I watched a few videos and read a few posts. I cleaned mine out with alcohol and used white lithium grease that I had on hand. I didn’t see any grease in the LDO kit
Including grease in kits makes export shipping very hard so it is set for local sourcing.
Oh I hadn’t seen that, that would have been useful- I did double check my manual pushing together, but wouldn’t be surprised if I was off by one
Good looking build so far!
That makes sense
Thank you
Yeah, I have two builds done but it was a real pain getting them matched 1:1.
I had to trim a fair amount of excess on the gantry to get the tool head to fit
It is important for the XY belts to be the exact same length.
You can detect that with the accelerometer later, correct?
Both sides were flush equal on both ends upon tightening
What do people thinks making a trident so much easier? The Z-belts versus the lead screw?
And no gearboxes to assemble.
No, the accelerometer will not detect the skew that the non equal length belts will cause.
As long as you got the length exact then you should be good.
what do you cut the belt with?
Scissors
I wonder if a box cutter would be more precise
I don’t think so unless you have dull scissors. I normally cut in the valley of the teeth so each belt will be divisible by 2mm.
Yeah, the blades fit fine between the teeth. I’m a little paranoid my Z belts are too tight, but haven’t plugged in electronics yet to verify. I printed a tensioning measurement tool too.
Now I have to wire up everything
Major progress
Pi was DOA, but replaced it with another one I stole from another printer to get things moving while I wait on a replacement
I tripped up on the fact that my leviathan in the Rev D was 1.3 not 1.2 (something had linked to the 1.2) so loading klipper was tricky at first
Thanks for the updates. Weird that your PI was DOA. Where did you order from
That’s surprising! What vendor?
Fabreeko
Making progress with klipper, but it appears the Z endstop is always triggered, maybe a config failure
I had the Z end stop wire backwards (it does matter, the two cables should be at pins 1
And 3 when connected to the endstop side and 1 and 2 on the motherboard side) Am able to do homing successfully now
