#Voronica — The Crackhead 2.4 (300mm Monolith AWD)
1650 messages · Page 2 of 2 (latest)
that cable gland mount looks strangely familiar... dont mind me I am trying to track down the clicky clack door+monolith panels files. What did you use for your final product? because it looks really nice.
ahha never mind I found your post in the monolith discord.
Awesome any feedback is appreciated!
Progress remains slow while we wait for smol Chube to get here. Then I can lock in for more gantry adventures!
It’s as easy as just shoving a female JST housing on DuPont pins 
More sexy torx titanium
I think the last of monolith BOM hardware is finally here. Plus 15mm aluminum standoffs for carbonara diet plan(thx @wicked storm)
Very nice
Ok back together after redoing some wiring. Hopefully no MCU disconnects on extended prints
New Glamor shots since this is the most “complete” the build has been… before I tear it down for an overhaul next month😅
Is this with the new carbonara hardware
Not yet, hopefully this weekend if I don't forget! I am annealling your new inserts printed with PCCF tonight!
Noooice
I MISSED THIS. LOVE OVERKILL BARF. Finally got it working after talking about it so much...
Didn't like the available solution so I whipped something up with my limited CAD abilities (took many weeks)
I wanted to retain OG Stealthburner Sized Voron Logo and carriage style mount while keeping a stealthy blend so the body won't look obviously different.
Still need to print OG SB size voron logo face plate and diffuser. May play with faceplate some more since it kinda looks boring. But really happy with how it turned out
Fyi the xol people hate when people put the voron logo on it kek
oh man i had no clue, whats the lore
It's their work, I wouldn't like someone putting their own "brand" on my tube like they made it 
Also the A4T, it's DWtas baby
yeah thats fair I didn't think about that 😭
That’s a lot of work to save 4g 😅 ( @wicked storm )
Updated Inserts (Al+Ti ) - 16g
OG Inserts (brass + Ti) - 20g
Updated with 2x 15mm aluminum standoffs instead of brass. Annealed PCCF (97% infill). Don’t remember it being this tight of a fit, had to pull out the vice to press everything in. That thang ain’t goin anywhere! I think last time I used a hammer 😗
Yeah, but it's just to optimize a bit, not an upgrade
That’s the same answer I tell my fiancé when she asks why my printer is always down 😇
Hehe
I’m glad someone else thought about using the aluminum standoffs to save weight as well.
ye i made the new bom just to be a little nicer
not really for huge weight loss
unless someone finds titanium ones... 👀
While the toolhead was off, did some tidying up:
Finally got rid of my zip-tie endstop striker! The lever on the endstop rattled like crazy, previously I just slapped heatshrink or foam tape on to silence it. Someone mentioned a while ago suggested to just remove the lever all together and use a precision striker. So we did just that! Very satisfying!
A little bit of cable management - ran out of tiny zip ties but sleeved cables all flow smoothly without looking like a tangled mess (:
And first time testing out quick release belt clamps on @snow basin 's new XOL carriage! No issues there, preserved belt tension and saved us a step! So far loving this feature!
And toolhead mass check -299g
And finally some Carbonara Optimization!
Installed new BOM inserts as well as removed the spacers.
Additionally rail was mounted every other hole like stock.
Initial: 407g
Final : 383g
A total savings of 24g off the X gantry! @wicked storm
AND WE BROKE INTO 9K Y MZV!!!!! - a 200mm/s2 gain (probably a fluke or error but 9K baby!!!!!!! we'll take it!!!!)
2020 stock - 8.5k Y #1376437613233307712 message
stock carbonara - 8.9k Y #1376437613233307712 message
optimized carbonara - 9.1k Y
oooo
24g is a lot
have you noticed a difference?
Haven't really tested anything else, I'm pretty sure this thing is maxed out now and I'm all belt limited
maybe i should make tube helpers for the stock screw patten
Got started on monolith today! No idea what I’m doing, literally just opened up the CAD for the first time today😅
no guides, no tutorials just good vibes 😗
Good vibes is all thats needed but if you get stuck just ping me 😅
Thank you appreciate it! Already had an oopsie, countersunk wrong face on rear motor mount. Its now double countersunk lol. Its functional but ugly I have to get a new one made
.
Also had the tumbler explode all over my garage so that was fun haha had too much stuff in the bowl
feel ya ive got a counter sunk hole thats on the wrong side too 
First time using a tumbler was cool!
- Unfinished 2. Deburring wheel 3. Stone wash finish after tumbler. 4. Tumbling without Deburring
Yeah tumbling wasn’t going to be the magic one step for all I was hoping. Gotta grease up my elbows 🥲
Sidetracked: haven’t found a strain relief step I liked. But I’ve always seen some people run their toolheads without strain relief/pugs which looks so clean.
So why not? let’s get rid of the ugly pug(:
@snow basin CNC ebb36 mount already has what we need to try it out - just layered heat shrink and zip ties(:
Yeah… I had a cnc PUG adapter for some reason that thing was heavy!
Nevermind if failed - I see movement transferring to the connectors.
Now with isolation between frame and the micro fit connectors
This looks like a better idea when I switch to wwbmg https://www.printables.com/model/1158928-wwbmg-ebb36nh36-pug-mount
Werk Werk Werk - there we go the secret sauce was actual manual labor 😭
Our first family portrait (:
Mocked everything up - most processing is done. Ordered some new pieces for the ones that didn’t come out perfect. I may have gotten carried away with the counter sinking! Most of it is hidden but knowing it exists bugs me !
Also found a way to get 5mm spacers instead of stacking 2.5mm ones thanks to the guys on mono channel!
@sweet trellis I hate it hahahaha

But the parts are looking fire sofar!!!🔥
Feeling a little something different for the next year….jk finally started a little work on the v0 again
I like to think the cable sleeving helps structural integrity 😂
This behind shot also looks kinda naughty. But I’m really liking the tear shape wrap around as straight relief
A white v0 frame😍🤤!!
Hope I haven’t spoiled the secret color theme yet haha
The frame hasn’t been touched in months since I’m slowly self sourcing everything (which I think is done, but we’ll see) 😇
WWBMG with dual omron filament sensors. Printed w ambrosia PCCF 100% infill. Super rigid! Swapped over bondtech RIGDA gears from the Sherpa. End weight a little chunkier but so worth it!
Didnt use the side PUG since I broke it.
Live idlers coming along - didn’t order enough pulleys 😭
XOL -> 4AT w/ filament cutter
Still had the dragon uhf cowl I printed a while ago so why not. Smol chube cowl also ready to go whenever that gets sent out. so temp toolheadsetup for now.
It was a very pleasant build compared to XOL.
No more cnc pcb mount nor cnc extruder. All PCCF 100% infill (may try PIF settings for weight savings?)
Ignore ghetto PUG 😅
+30g -1k IS ouch 😭
(Cutter ~ 17g, dual filament sensors ~ 7g)
Sexy
We got live idlers!!!!! This was fun figuring out and satisfying when it all came together!!
I used 100mm ejector pins but was worried about leaving ugly cuts so tested to see if I could leave the head part - wasn’t very pretty so off with the head!
Damn i only bought enough pulleys for the 4 motors, I need 2 more if I want to test out Monolith 2WD too hmmm
Rear tensioner stack ✅
XY Stack ✅
Front Motor Stack ✅
All that’s left is to wait for the last 2 2504 Monolith round shaft motors to come in!
Currently running 2504 D cut motors - not sure how significant the mismatch is but better safe than sorry! Maybe I can throw these on the v0 😅
I’ve never had a printed gantry so this was a new experience
Realized I need to start the monolith conversion in order to salvage 6mm gantry parts to continue the v0 build!
Originally wanted atleast one working printer when doing the conversion/build - too bad for me and poor planning 😭
look good 🔥 .. but no #1259699805693808681 :O
I saw that! but I can only handle 1 gucci build at a time hehe, I keep starting projects that I haven't finished 
This is going to be a PLA machine for my fiance and I don't think she needs crackhead speed (Yet)
@sweet trellis also is this thermistor setup going to work? Or should I bend it so the thermistor body is in more contact with the stepper?
I don’t really want it to be visible hmmm
yea that looks great!
maybe rotate the thermistor 180 degree so that its fully on the motor and possible add some thermal past
Tear down and conversion begins!
Been super nervous to start because if I missed something important I’ll have to get a third printer 
And v0 inside v2 meme snap hehe
All laid out on the ole granite slab and some closeups of CNC ATSS 2WD + frankenstein light XY joint vs AWD Sheetmetal Monolith
Can't forget the titanium and gucci bearings!!!!!
Mock-setup with aluminum hardware - 82g
Semi-final setup with all Titanium - 74g
Sidenote-Currently using TI m3x40 socket head instead of button head, and m3x6mm on the live idler bearings just for weighing purposes, placed an order for correct TI hardware and will use aluminum version in the meantime
Y Rails regreased and completely buttoned up - I ran out of m3x8 because of this (I think I will do the same to the Z rails)
And also repositioned them to hide my scratched up extrusions from all visible surfaces hehe
that looks awesome with the neon green bearings!
More gantry work
@snow basin ‘s CNC rigid Zs - I knew this day would come and I’d have to address it, may have to hack these up or hope M3 hardware will suffice 😭
Front motor wiring - will be sleeved of course!
@sweet trellis what I meant to hide the thermistor - will prob use thermal cement or paste to interface the two. Maybe a heat sink on top hehe
Now for the hardest obstacle I’ve come across - color theme!
-
Keep it clean and stealthy with hints of blue
-
More blue more personality
-
More black more stealthy
-
Or hella in your face blue and bold 🤔
For #1317678719485083748 I went 1 and I really chose where you saw the accent color. I also did a bunch of work hiding as much wire as possible.
Also my tried and true default style for everything! Been thinking lately I play it too safe all the time and maybe should try something new
Also do you have an invite link to stevebuilds discrod you mentioned? I couldn't find it
I DM’ed you the link.
I’d go with the stripped sleeping then.
Or use the solid blue where you want to draw attention.
Looking good!
there's still time
love the colours though
very 
Haha yes thank you for your help with that! It’s perfect! 😁
V0 progress has been slow but very fun to build! (Except I might go crazy if I see another “preload m3 nut”
tulip is definitely on the radar! But for after getting familiar with the stock v0 first hehe
Carnage of the Gantry rebuild and initial squaring on the granite slab
Titanium backers - should I keep this black or strip it to bare Ti for more bling bling?
Since no laser cut service stock 5mm alu sheets, I had to settle with stacking 2.5mm spacers which aligning sucked - someone in the monolith discord mentioned glueing them together a while ago and holy crap it made life so much better! 10/10 recommend!
(note: i'm still trying to get the 5mm pieces cut... maybe jlccnc)
When shawty look like her dating profile pictures 
Rough gantry all squared up and racking was perfect even
New Z chain mount to help manage AWD wiring
9mm EPDM Z belts - purely for esthetics 🥲
This belt clamp aligner thing is amazing! A single 4400mm belt split perfectly into 4x1100mm belts zero error!
Cute Monolith Z clamps printed in PCCF
Motor + thermistor harness = homemade Kraken 😁
Had to get matching monolith 2504ah motors hehe… now I have 6 2504…. Guess I’ll donate it to the v0 😁
Trying to be like @wicked storm with new cable ducting and these euro style terminals to clean up my electronics bay.
Need to terminate
- Mains power
- 24v rail
- 48v rail
- CANBUS terminal
I think I need to vertical mount the PSUs for more space
New screen mount since I broke the current one. Lookin like a Nintendo switch!
Some more sheet metal parts I wanted to redo
Close up of monolith full travel protrusion - couldn’t visualize it for some reason but it worked out!
- note I can’t do my carriage squaring trick with these mounts since it doesn’t allow the carriage to slip between in thru the middle 😭
Brushed finish on the Titabium backers! 😍
Note - sanding titanium sucks it eats up a lot of sand paper
Old endstop setup with @snow basin's XOL mount - graduated from the ziptie!
Hopefully not too hard to recreate with monolith
I like how clean and stealthy this looks haha
Onboard 5160t pro for now - I think I may get standalone drivers eventually. May need to add another set of noctua 4010 to the octorays/octoglasses since I got an overheat warning once running IS back to back a bunch of times at 2.5a
Belts ran
And she’s alive! No magic smoke! (jk crashed at the end because molex broke)
Took a while to figure out the config and get everything to play nice without documentation - the ah-hah moment that clicked was realizing the gantry is now literally flipped so X motor on back right and Y is now back left 😅
Now onto housekeeping stuff to tidy everything up
Home Y first. If the Toolhead is at the very front you'll smash the Part Fan (a friend told me 🙈).
Looks nice
Yep thats how its done with awd
Looking AWESOME!
Thank you!! Any other tips to keep in mind? I know nothing about AWD haha been just figuring it out as I go
Thank you!!! Yeah I broke the extruder tensioner arm this morning 
Ho and use the sync motors klipper macro! Makes awd so so much easier to use
Requires an adxl on your machine and you run the macro after homing and it will sync belts for you
New all metal bondtech RIGDA V2 gears and west3d cool plate 😍
Been dreading this - time to clean up this rats nest
Where is the ebb TMC heatsink?
May need to modify and make this wider to accommodate the sleeving
Thinking about endstop integration - monolith Y endstop plus the Z chain cover (also found in monolith channel)
But some flush cutter action on the current piece for clearance 😂
Modified @jade bronze umbilical side mount to be as flush as possible for WWBMG
Plus another style that should bolt up to @snow basin’s XOL mount - I’m getting this made in SLM currently from JLCNC
And we have monolith! Initial AWD Monolith IS after motorsync!
AWD guys really do have more fun - who let me play with 2wd for so long? 
15k 165mm - so mesmerizing. conservative speeds but I'm content. Waiting for smol chube to dive into fine tuning.
Surprised AWD 48v at 2.5A is barely even audible with linneo double pane PC panels for fridge door 
No mods to the fridge door needed - worked flawlessly with full travel monolith!
@rain swift can you please remind me what IS result you got on 2WD?
300mm 6mm gt2 EPDM 2WD with your double shear. Belts around 175hz. 300g toolhead. Carbonara with no inserts/stock rail mouting pattern. 48v 5160t pro 2.5a
Let me know if that helps!
Awesome! Thanks! Trying to find some data. Just had tests on my gantry v2.4, 9mm GT2 belts, 48v 2.4a
Will work on improvements like carbonara next week
Very nice! I wonder how far I wouldve gotten with your new gantey!
Should I send you mpx ATSS 9mm 2wd? I never got to use it and don’t think I’m going to be build a third printer anytime soon
Thank you, but I have more printers than time at the moment 🙂
Monolith gantry is many years in tests and developed cycle, while mine just couple of months. So I would not be surprised if Monolith performs better
I still have the 2wd monolith plates - I'm very curious how it performs.
But I'm too lazy to make the 2 additional live idlers that it needs 🤣
@rain swift #vendor_promotions message
He said in armchair he still has airs in stock
is this real? its cheaper than smol chube
Yep I think so
Wow
That’s Canadian too
Had no idea they made kirigami bed in other colors 🥲
All good though - some high temp paint and she cute again! Maybe the v0 build will be done by 2027 😗
Lots and lots of monolith housekeeping to do since its such a major conversion!
-Dinky X endstop striker - wanted something lowkey buts so ugy its stands out. and so little material lets see how long this lasts
-Y end stop + monolith version of hartk z chain thing - made it modular for printability
-Tried out this pre tensioner thing that was cool
-lil laser cut 1.5mm spacer for test version of vitalii's carriage instead of using a bunch of shims that flew everywhere during maintenance.
-Found a new pattern for sleeving but it doesn't stand out as much - maybe that was the lighting
-no more ldo 4040 round frames for 300 sad bois ):
Finally made a cover for those 2020 braces to hide the wiring like I've been saying for months -finally stopped being lazy!
Glad the motor wires + thermistor wires sleeved was still just enough thicc that it can be tucked into the 2020 extrusion channels nicely
And since I keep making problems for myself - tucking the motor wires on top means I can't mount the filament cutter striker - this is what I came up with for now - using the front motors as a base!
MORE CARBONARA? oh wait nvm just carbon element for the filter
Looking good! Makes me wish I would have gone Sheet Metal on my new build… but I’m just doing metal XY joints.
Also, love the Z chain mount!
They had to have lost money on that lol
Such a good deal
Sad I missed it
Is there a reason for the double z drive carriages?
Oh thank you! Really ties it in nicely! Although I just broke it 5 mins ago (wasn’t printed with PIF settings 🥲)
I really dig the chain look even tho most of the wire inside are sleeved 😂
Sheetmetal was super intimidating at first but it ended up being very fun and a good learning experience!
It looks sick af !
Jk I think one SLM or CNC joint set does 99% what it needs to , I otherwise noticed no gains just Z loss, more consistent QGL, but terribly annoying setup process!
I bet it was pricey too for the z rails.
Yeah I kept going back and forth over it and takeoff but ended up keeping my smol chube order - atleast I’m not doing a tool changer so no loss for me 😗
Lol
Yeah I may have lost 400$ on that one...
At least I can think that that 400$ went towards convenience 😫
I probably don't need any more chubes anyways. Next printer is probably going to be a real all out build of my own design with all cnc/slm and no extrusions
Just used my stock formbot rails and ordered extra carriages relatively cheap! But when I go 4040 as my next thing I would want more Z for full travel with it (or beyond if I wanna do what Jakob is doing)
Yeah I like jakob's setup he is doing. I guess formbot makes consistent rails because everyone told me I had to get matching rails and blocks lol
Yeah also could’ve saved money bc I ended up replacing with all west zerker for also no gains ( I have pattern of this 🙃) but now a future build is possible 😁
Also did you get the LDO corners on sale?
Welcome to my world... I just got full airtac for my z on SCal
Stock height right? And Is that big money I’m not familiar but I’ve seen that name thrown around
500mm z rails so a little longer. Belts are basically the same length
Z and y are airtac and x is motion perfect
Motion perfect is so expensive
Nice! Yeah, I uploaded those files to the Monolith server awhile ago. I do like the look of cable chains, so I modified HartK’s design for the lower, and created the top piece.
No, sadly not. I actually ordered a set two weeks ago when they were showing in stock… Then I opened the box and they were grey corners. I wanted to cry when they said the blacks were out of stock… so now I’m just waiting for them to get more so I can exchange.
Been learning a lot about belt mounting lately when all I wanted to know was: inside loop or outside loop? 
Using vitalii's early revision xol mount - we spaced out from the carriage 1.5mm - which I've now learned is not the 2.2-2.3 monolith spacing. (I got 2.24 from monolith cad)
Looking at my belts I can see an inwards bow towards the rail - sounds like an easy fix but sounds like I should wait till everyone agrees before I order custom spacer from SCS
Our belts should have been broken in by now after some printing hours! Time for IS testing!
Charts cleaned up a little bit! Looks like we still have room for improvement according to belt diff and noise
SLM WWBMG parts from jl3dp- very impressed! First time doing this process so some mistakes. I see now how I can improve and optimize parts with my next order since some of these keep original dimensions they ended up chonky!
Pretty much perfect fit - but heavy.
Next plan is to study the cnc Sherpa and try to skeletonize/optimize where I can
Keeping the front piece printed since I want dual filament sensor and have a nice esthetic 😅
The PCB mount is way overkill - I can trim away some fat with a grinder no need to remake I don’t think
Remade my motor harness thicc and girthy - first time around they were lanky and dumpy. The Z chain is so full but neat 
Finally ditched the carto for beacon! feels gud to support . Dollar store wig vs Full salon blow out you can see where the effort went haha
thats ALOT of pink zipties - does that mean we're finally wiring up the v0.2?
-No because why did I go into this project thinking I can reuse all my v2 parts? 
Not happy about the sleeving - it turned out to be a Neon pink - not our pastel pink - tbd it clashes very strongly
Why did I waste 50 bucks on a picobilical kit when I have extra ebb36 to use for CAN 
Liddo pink flower knobs on matching Keenovo bed heater hehe
Just a little electronics optimizing right?
Monolith vertical UHP mounts to free up some space.
Trying it those UK termination blocks. So far I like.
A little carnage to the ACM panel while remove those cable ducts….
Oh my god what have I done
It looks great! Is there a reason why you wanted to cram everything on the bottom instead 5050 split with top and bottom or sidepack?
Unless I’m going all out tool changer I want minimal changes in foot print since this is replacing a tiny Bambu x1

And have to keep it living room friendly /not look like a commercial factory machine to keep the fiance happy with it
And thank you! I only recently (beginning of summer?) started learning about experimenting beyond stock/bom voron for my first diy build. So no concrete plans just winging it day by day!
Funny enough, you reminded me I had these and I wasn’t about to crimp all the JSTs back o my motor harness just to cut them off again…. So I started making
Room….
External drivers just look awesome
Every time I see the wiring. It reminds me of mine
Gimme that skateboard grip tape lookhad extra heavy duty textured vinyl from lining my garage toolboxes
Mainly wanted to convert to Horizontal Electronics DIN rails since the vertical orientation never made sense to me and these seems more space efficient
Rare v2 underbelly shot lol - wish inverted electronics for v2 was a thing - that hooded bed mod? Is any good?
Hooded belt?
This time I'm going to sleeve the underside wiring - some... not all... for now I think. I got a different blue/black one I posted earlier. It looked better in pictures but we'll see. I used it to sleeve the beacon cable to run alongside the one we have
https://mods.vorondesign.com/details/TmE2ogJM6EYetii4uD1GQ
Never actually seen a build with it in the wild
You guys make me want to change my profile image to my tabby but i've had this one since 2016 
Man wtf is this
What is your pfp of?
You should go for 79° chamber temps
Get one of Wayne's new "spooky boxes"
Down the line for sure maybe after 4040/4020 conversion or when I get back into car parts. I still have one I made for my Bambu in order to print my initial voron parts hehe
Lol
I no longer have my x1c
It was replaced with a qidi plus 4 and it wasn't missed
Ruff draft of placement
-may have cut motor harnesses a little shorter than I’d like - no longer that center vert ducting
-to have box of duct including alongside fan skirts like before
-switch to double banked uk terminals - maybe for motor
-I have a bunch of 5inch DIN rails to be creative with.
- usb hub(s) in that bottom spot?
I probably should’ve printed the external driver mount before starting 🤗
You can still print (or have someone print) the driver mount 🤪.
Which ones do you use for the external ones?
I only know of those or individual ones for a separate DIN rail.
https://www.printables.com/model/1172197-din-mount-for-btt-octopus-pro-4x-btt-tmc5160t-plus
https://www.printables.com/model/988001-btt-tmc5160t-pro-awd-mcu-board-mounting-bracket-fo
sir duck mentioned this one I think. I think I wanted to measure my clearances once I mocked everything up cuz its gonna be tight how I envisioned
I'm gonna zip tie them to cardboard in order to print the mount loooool 
Ok it's basically the same thing, just green🙂.
It's a shame I don't have room for external drivers (and I don't feel like rewiring everything 😅)
oh yeah and print a fan case for it too since their basically the same right?
Just put the fan over it and you're done. I'm not a fan of putting drivers in a closed case.
https://www.printables.com/model/871454-btt-tmc5160t-plus-case#preview.ShDMH
even like this one?
sawzall go brrrrr or 4040 time 
Yeah, something like that.
It's a bit too closed off for my taste. But everyone's different.
4040 no longer fits my frame due to the outer dimensions 😭.
I ended up getting the solid heatsink ones on sale. 8 for the toolchanger setup.
That would be the more sensible option for me as well.
Guys it’s not Black Friday anymore @long gull @terse nexus 
They aren't cheap anymore lol. They were down to 31$ a piece and now they are back up to 60-70
Oh what I didn’t realize that’s how steep the cut was
Yeah I got bullied in the monolith server because everyone had thought I spent 60$ a piece
I'd like to ask you to avoid using that term on this server. We attract a very neuro-divergent community and the phrase is offensive to many. If you could change the word to something else it would be appreciated, otherwise the post may be removed
I am sorry. I am 59 years old and only recently has the term been so offensive to people
I forget
Its been a good like 15, 20 years now
Just saying
Well, that's just how it always is with a hobby😅.
Im an idiot, this was all SLM stainless steel - thats why they're so heavy 
JLCNC only does SS or TI I just found out
PCBway is the secret 🤪.
thanks got a few to try, JLcnc just added tariffs and wild shipping on when I attepmted a new order 
Yes, Trump has really pushed his policies through, and the little guy has to suffer 😪.
Unfortunately, it's no different for us Europeans when we want to order something from the USA 🥴.
yes kinda maybe. us tarrifs only apply to americans and not for us ordering from the us
Then the items have only become more expensive because the customs duties are passed on to the products 🤷🏼♂️.
anyways lets not talk politicts in here 🙂
I might need this ..
It is awesome but probably a bad idea. There is a reason why the ideal material for an extruder is milled peek
The mix between the bolted milled and printed parts can become a nightmare at higher motor temps
Heat transfers through the motor and into the gears/filament much faster.
If I ever get a bondtech I think Burgos sells an SLM Lgx or something with peek filament line
No I mean the whole extruder milled out of peek
Titanium is better than nothing but not exactly ideal. I have one of the slm repacks on order
It was an impulse purchase with tricorn
I have some peek blocks that were scrap from work that I might end up doing something with
Spacers
Plastic screws
Gg
Not perfect though 😕
Ugly color
My 17mm extruder motor was crazy hot which wasn’t a problem when I had my CNC Sherpa. But my 20mm 6t extruder motor just came in so I don’t think heat will be an issue. Still waiting for smol chube. I’m gonna get this piece remade in SLM Ti after I skeletonize it some more. The main WWBMG is still printed pccf so I hope that should be okay for now.
Main reason for all this is mmu compatibility + esthetics or else I would’ve gone takeoff (which may end up happening anyways). I saw SLiM XOL a while back so I may play with that or try to do a a4T version with my basic cad abilities lol.
Toolhead hardware is all Ti so hoping heat transfer is minimal.
High accel/speed printing is still new to me so I’m still figuring tuning - haven’t outrun my 4010s yet and I absolutely hate CPAP haha
Paint 
Electronics overhaul is a lot more work than I thought and progress has been slow with the holidays.
24v into Manta and 48v straight to standalone driver? @terse nexus
Got the correct PSU for the v0 but wrong outlet/switch 🥲
Should be correct
You can get a new resistor for those external drivers
So you can have usable rsense
dang I just placed a digikey order last week thank you
Voronica — The Crackhead 2.4 (300mm Monolith AWD)
These are cool! 😍 Goodbye ugly 5-pin JST @slender mural
I don’t think that is my design if those are the FYSETC ones.
oof my bad! That's embarassing I'll have to check when I get on a computer. Got you coffee instead!
I don’t get anything either way for the design so I really don’t care.
Can’t have that! 
I’m not in it to make money, only to make the world a better place.
Noooooo made these nice and pretty after cutting to size and adding exhaust cutouts just to discover this major oversight. Turns out white was the wrong color choice when it’s up against black skirts. Ordered black cable ducting but holiday shipping sucks ugh.
Added some grommets for the cutouts in the ACM panel. These panel edges are sharp and sketchy. Round grommet in a square hole was meh but it’s secure, function > form I guess
From Black Friday haul - Finally found my Goldilocks electric screw driver!!!! Stronger than those tiny 3v pen ones but tame enough for M3/M5 hardware without destroying them! No more lazy sketchy impact driver action heh
Do you know What problems I will face with running stock resistors? I saw people talking about it in mono discord but I haven’t really looked into it much. I put in an order for 0.075 ohms ones, should I just wait till I change them out before using the externals?
Also ordered SLM clamp from in3dtec so ignore my earlier ping 😅
I don't know. This will be my first time running external drivers
Sunon fans for the external drivers - 12v + Tach since Im planning to run them independently (not on board)
Gucci west3d F623 bearings for the v0
LDO 6T nitride gear motor since I destroyed the brass 8t with improper meshing (woops)
Hi I’m Denald and my hobby is starting projects that I don’t finish!
V0.2 - keep ordering wrong parts w/o realizing until too late. Fiancé not very motivated.
Formbot Boxturtle kit - I’ve had since MAY 🤡
V2 electronics overhaul - Trying to be clean and cohesive. Pretty much every wire is being remade due to length differences and janky crimp/sleeving mistakes.
-Good example is my inconsistent and sloppy exhaust fan wiring where I tried to reuse the noctua sleeving and stacked a bunch of heat shrink that made the run super stiff. Now they are trimmed, joined, extended and sleeved as identical as I could manage cuz symmetry is sexy 🥴 ( still WIP until I get final measurements)
Z Motors - Replacing and sleeving these awful Moons motor cables that disintegrates if you blow on it.
And finally My car is also overdue for an oil change I’ve ignored for 2 months heh
CAN U SEE DA VISION?!
Self sourced v0.2 starting to look like a printer finally!
Mounted ACM bottom panel wrong way - but may leave it like this and sleeve the bed umbilical (no cable chain)
Elite power switch mounting - no questions asked.
And first start with mains power - no magic smoke! Then turning the SKR Pico into a can bridge Using this waveshare CAN Transceiver.
waiting for some more stuff
- white heatshrink tubing to complete the pink sleeving
-ebb36 gen2 to start wiring toolhead
-a working v2 to print rest of the skirts
https://www.printables.com/model/988001-btt-tmc5160t-pro-awd-mcu-board-mounting-bracket-fo
Pretty much remade this external driver +Manta moutn from scratch since editing the stl kept crashing my computer.
Simplified it and shifted the drivers 12mm to the left since they will hit my Z motor.
temporarily wiring up the onboard drivers to print some stuff before finalizing locations and wiring length
such a big difference still compared to before!
As well as successful first start up since the tear down - no magic smoke but btt canbus cable took a shit (zero continuity on both the 26awg wires - trimmed like 12 inches from both sides and didnt' even eliminate the break GGs BTT)
Which reminds IGUS never shipped my chainflex cable from over a month ago - so I can make a CAN+USB umbilical with all 20awg....
Zero motivation until the correct black duct ways came.
Grommet didnt work lol - so reused that stock sheath thing that came in the formbot kit. Bedtherm and Bedfan cabling sleeved together more tidiness.
Have this hard fystec build sheet magnet - which I will absolutely not use either with that logo (magic eraser /ipa, acetone didn’t work) .
My magnet sheet had a hard clear layer on it initially until one day I printed on it directly and ripped off 🥲 (blessed by bedmesh gods - no issues from this)
Don’t be me the idiot using too long hardware in the wwbmg fugging up the gear meshing.
Keep in mind, this is the wear in 2 weeks of light use.
Some 6T nitride gear vs 8t brass gear
Let’s see what damage I could o with the 6T hahahaha. About 13-15g difference between 20mm and 17mm motor. This difference was not worth the heat from the 17mm
Forgot that I got the flying cam setup working before I broke my printer.
The footprint is alot bigger than I'd like, but its the only camera module I have good experience with so for now WIP.
(built in heat sink and all, so hopefully doesn't get cooked by heat bed https://www.amazon.com/Arducam-Autofocus-Lightburn-Security-Engraver/dp/B0DBTK235K
Arducam's new 16MP IMX298 USB 2.0 camera features a1/2.8" sensor with a max resolution of 4656x3496. It delivers clear images and accurate color reproduction, supporting AEB/AEC for optimal exposure. Equipped with an autofocus motor lens, the camera supports automatic and manual focus, boasting a...
she's looking beautiful
i want to do a similar build
also i believe you were interested in this skirts?
https://www.printables.com/model/1538496-v02-wide-boy-skirts
Again, thjank you and appreciate you! would love to see another one. build is very very slowly coming together. 😅
Wiring Saga continues: New years
Should've known doing too much at once = disaster. Low motivation since I encountered an almost impossible-to-solve klipper error w/ useless logs while doing a bunch of mods:
- Beacon Install
- Complete Wiring overhaul
- External Drivers
Ripping out a bunch of the new wiring, multimetere checks etc ... ended up being remnants of cartographer settings/macros during carto->beacon conversion. bummer
Also had a funny thing where crossbow blade detached and was stuck in cut position while the arm fully retracted- leading to me unable to load filament (behaved like a clog)
Also got my combo monolith-hartk umbilical thing working nicely (y endstop + chamber thermistor). Although its a little crooked... lol
Any smash players see R.O.B. resemblence? 
and I'm still terrible at SMD soldering. Prob shouldve tested them first as is. yolo
I love that. Do you have files?
Here ya go I just combined the monolith Y endstop and the chain mount @quasi bridge uploaded
#1228991033681903698 message
@rain swift What's up, is your build finished?
There hasn't been an update for a few days now 🤪.
Wiring sucks haha low motivation rn so no progress really. Honestly just waiting for smol chube and some SLM parts to get here
Why does this seem so familiar🤣?
I'll have to replace the gantry soon, though 😪.
The voron curse 🤣 @long gull
Printer down
PC also down for maintenance
Too many projects at once 🥲
Nice bimmers
It's looking pretty good already 🙂.
I still have some work to do, there's a problem with the Mono r0... so I have to install the r1 before getting the CNC parts 🥴.
Start a build log already hahaha
What are the differences? I haven’t followed the changes in revisions
And what filament are you using for this?
printed D5 pump bracket printed in PETG 2 years ago on my lil Prusa mk3s - 1st thing I ever designed after watching a bunch of CAD tutorials 
The R1 has a live idler, the R0 still has regular pins.
Building a build log isn't worth it anymore; my printeris too "old" and has had too many modifications. 😅
I only use PC PBT GF for all important parts now.
How much did you spend on this machine?
Finally got 8ft of IGUS chain flex CF9 to make my CAN+USB umbilical! Only took 2 months direct from IGUS 😭
7x20AWG wires - going to split the ground
Diameter is 7.5mm
Not sure if I’m going to wire this now or wait for smol chube so I can do full toolhead overhaul
External driver mockup - soldering the rest of the resistors went better than the first 👌
Blue PCCF was wet but should be functional for now
Cheapo 3010 fans for now hopefully not too loud since they are always on if wires directly to the drivers
Prob 2-3x the amount of the X1C it was suppose to replace 😭
Half of it was just me messing around and testing different configurations/mods haha.
Would still be an interesting journey to follow since it’s refined build! I hope to get to that point one day haha 
That’s… less than I expected! You were going for the fancy, high-end parts almost everywhere. Mine was only lightly modified (Rapido Hotend, EBB36 CAN bus, LDO super power motors) from the original BOM, and it still costed 1.75x of an X1C.
Haha that’s what I get for being stubborn and not doing research!
Didn’t have a clear direction in the beginning so I was just throwing stuff at it. But now also seeing other quality builds and what people can do definitely influenced me and gave me new ideas/goals to work towards.
But no regrets I learn by actually doing things myself and it was fun! Made new friends. Gained some new skills I can apply outside of 3d printing too!
100% worth! 
I can probably still recoup some money from selling parts I’m not using / or start another build I’ll never finish 🥲
1.75x for now - that’s a solid setup until you get hungry from the mod bug hahaha
I still have quite a few pictures, but summarizing 2.5 years in text again... phew, no thanks😅.
Did you have any trouble with the hole spacing on the 5160 + Octopus mount? I had to mod it to fix the spacing
I have a manta m8p v2, I remade the mount in fusion and posted a step file a few posts up - it’s only mocked up for now so haven’t tested it yet
When I printed it, I found the 5160 plus hole spacing was just slightly wrong. I fixed it and posted it up as a remix to that original file
Same, but I didn't change anything from the original, this worked for me and everything lined up well
Blue was original for me and yellow was my modified file
In any case, glad it lined up for ya
haha ty and nice, I prob shouldve gotten a cad of the driver instead of relying on the stl, thats way more legit
It's pretty cool BTT posts the cad of all their boards. Makes custom stuff way easier to make
Have you shared this mount, or would you be willing to? My current mount keeps loosening, and it’s driving me crazy
I uploaded it on printables I’d have to find the link after work!
SLM goodies from in3Dtec! This time in aluminum and not stainless steel 😬
A skeletonized WWBMG - inspired by the Burgos SLM bondtech extruder
Mgn12h belt clamp
SLM A4T crossbow adapter
+1mm Z motor tensioner
And my ebb36 mount but more optimized compared to the first time I made it!
Damn!!! Do they do a black coating like that?!?
Oh just bad lighting, I wish 😭
Need to do a little post processing on them
Oh no kidding! They look black to me, and SOOO good!
Great work on that! I’m curious to see how they perform, and the weight comparison.
I found it - thanks, again!
Just for fun: when I accidentally ordered SLM stainless steel instead of SLM Alu 😭
Insanely heavy
Note: my wwbmg and cutter adapter have custom holes for a pseudo titanium skeleton between the parts 🫡
47g for SLM alu WWBMG housing
iirc I think metal housing for fystec Sherpa was 35ish grams
That finish looks amazing?
How did you do it?
It’s still the raw finish! I plan to clean up the surfaces with a sanding block and then run everything thru the tumbler. I’ll take before and after close ups later
that will be awesome
If you got a chance to try it do you have any feedback?
I made a newer one for SLM printing which is way thinner which Ill have to upload when I get time
link for future reference if anyone else wants to take a look https://www.printables.com/model/1514138-tucked-wwbmg-4at-pug-mount
Was a little off with guestimate fystec sherpa housing was ~24g
Some RAW extruder closeups - lots of post processing to do.
Hopefully it even works haha
@terse nexus
I have it printed, but haven’t installed it yet. It’s going on my cursed printer, and I’m taking a break from it right now lol
Are you going to use the metal ECAS fitting?
EBB36 gen 2 - not sure if I should switch at all for a few reasons
-XT30 vs MX3 connector
-taller board - (will likely have to make my own right angle adapter )
-Both CAN/USB require this adapter board
I had one then it stopped working. It runs very hot but it’s normal it’s rated for like 150c or something. Not much difference really
Also cable that comes with is inverted compared to old Biqu cables to double check polarity if you plug old cable
Did you think it’s worth switching to? Thank you for the heads up not sure what I’m going to do with it since gen1 works fine as is
If you already have a U2C board installed, you do not need the second PCB.
Gen2 is 75° ratet
For fan config and connector sure but otherwise no not worth it.
Damn black raceways look so goood! Still a bunch of small details to address but happy with the outcome so far. Before picture for reference.
Definitely bit off a lot more than I could chew with an electronics bay overhaul. Slow progress and Zero motivation last few weeks but little by little finally got her in a functional state again!
Initial run and moving steppers meant my soldering of the sense resistors on the external drivers was great success
But the always on 24v cheapo 3010 fans was insane! Really didn’t want any more wiring projects but I had these 12v Sunon fans I had to make a splitter for into a single fan header on the manta. Waaaaay more quiet and turns on only when in use.!
Finally had time to get tach working for most of the different fans!
Started making a CAN+USB umbilical before a gen2 ebb36 landed in my hands. Is single USB with passthru for beacon the way?
Definitely don’t want to keep making harnesses from scratch - might terminate the xt30 to a microdot anchored on the toolhead before it goes through the pug
Trying out this angled XT30 before I make my own - it’s pretty stiff so not sure exactly how the routing will go. It’s short so it will terminate before it gets to the exhaust I think.
Current one was made by hand and way more flexible
Another decision roadblock 😭
Spend lots of money and time on sheetmetal gantry. Buys CNC gantry anyways. Stonks
Where’s my gawdamn chube mini Bruce
yeaaa haha 😆
i spend like 200€ on sheet metal (maybe even more) and a good 100€ on the printed gantry for the v2 only to replace both with cnc 😆
Where did you manage to buy it?
West3d!
Now what to do with the tumbler and giant drill press 🤣
oh the drill press is still usefull!
best tool i bought in a long while!
Nice placed pre order I guess they ship before end of April as UK site says 2nd half of it
could have ordered from #onetwo3d-🇬🇧-🇪🇺-🌐 ^^
It says it’s out of stock there
yea they havent opend orders yet
🤣
With parts you want to reduce weight, have you tried modelling these and using generative ai to design the strongest lightest parts?
Which parts?
With toolhead design it is difficult because you have to maintain a center of mass
Any parts that are moving, I’ve not had ago at it because autodesk is expensive and the generative Ai features are not free. You can model the parts or import a step file, then set the parameters e.g the dimensions it’s not allowed to change, you can also set features like centre of mass. It then removes or adds material where it’s needed.
It’s probably better to use SLM or sls as they don’t need supports so you won’t have to design a part to be 3d printed like fdm.
I have access to generative AI but I have never used it. I might try and get a younger guy at work to help me figure it out
Issue is that any moving part needs center of mass calculated for it and I don’t know if AI does that. Otherwise you would have a vzbot situation
A lil maintenance and tidying up before cnc mono party!
Then oh no what do we see? Belt damage ): No wonder my tension was getting wonky!
this scenario was always at the back of my mind but to actually predict and then see it happen is nutty. And Prematurely as well! these belts are relatively new. Bummer but now wet get an excuse for 9mm closed loop EPDM!!
Luckily a Boy Scout is always prepared!
SLM monolith universal belt clamp! Switching back to my old Vitalii CNC carriage (with a little drill press gore).
Look at that teeth engagement! Got lucky and found these belt clamp designed for cartographer carriage that ended up working without any changes - however there are some necessary tweaks that have to be done.
We just barely was able to clamp past the break in the belt fibers for now…
Oh damn, sucks that the belt got damaged. But thouse tight 90 degree bends on the carriage is something gates does not recommend ... for a reason like it seams
Haven’t ran one of these in a long while. And shes back one last time!
Thank you luke and audrina for letting me do a last minute order change before smol chube production starts since I can’t ever make up my mind 😬
Smol chube -> medium chube
Lmao nice
I have seen a lot of people cancel compact orders lately. 99% of gamblers quit before the big win
Oh nice joining the big leagues haha
Hi, first of all congratulations about your amazing build, I'm looking towards this same path good aesthetics 2WD so let's see how it performs
Ohh wait 4WD, it's that Monolith CNC right??
thats Monolith Sheetmetal
It's better than CNC?
sheetmetal is harder to assemble, depending on where you source the part either cheaper or more expensive then cnc
but until now it was the only available metal option
F.e in a local laser company ATSS it's 58€ without shipping included
Atss is a lot simpler than sheet metal monolith. It is nearly half the parts and you don’t have to do nearly as much work to get everything to fit compared to monolith
Yeah I saw that yesterday, ATSS isn't rocket science
In terms of performance is a big difference between ATSS and Monolith
atss has a lot longer belts then monolith so yea you wont be getting the same performance from atss then you would from monolith
but at this point i would not bougher with sheet metal and just buy a cnc kit
Yeah I saw there is a ATSS CNC kit
He ment monolith CNC
Yup it was definitely a learning experiment as I had no idea what I was doing when I started. Just randomly trying things and upgrading as my needs/wants change. Started with atss 2wd and progressed to mono sheetmetal. Then CNC mono whenever that gets sent out! Sheet metal is a big project (prob more expensive than CNC if I factor in time and money on tools etc). And I'm still not quite happy with my work (small imperfections here and there). CNC is the way to go less headache!
Thanks for your reply and I'll take for sure that into account for my build
as much as atss is nice i don't think it is worth it over printed monolith. If you have the money cnc monolith is the way to go
So even printed monolith is better than CNC ATSS?
Considerably
So that's a way to save money
When’s the endgame if I keep pushing the goalpost 😭 are you still going el fuego? I’m currently anti cpap. I startinf to research more optimized toolheads
Currently watching CNC trinity development hehe, are you still using the calamities?
Yeah jakob just ordered a silicone cpap hose to hopefully cut down on the noise. I hope it works because if it does I might consider trying cpap again
yea my trident is currntly in pieces .. doing some general TLC and adding all the right holes for cpap/elfuego.
like Hank said i ordered a silicon hose that should be pretty damn quiet
The calamities are all on my farm printers atm. The toolchanger toolhead was delayed from a chinese holiday so one more week for that.
and the ws9290 is going in my steel electronic box with some basotect for sound dampening inside
I am sending a cnc trinity to hydro to test when I send him the G2 repack
so ideally i would not even hear the cpap fan at sub 50% speed
and i also have some anit vibration standoffs in my aliexpress shopping cart that im gonna try and integrate into the dinrail mounting solution
1 Year later finally started assembling my NSB boxturtle (300mm frame width). Never thought I would see this day 🤣
-all parts should be printed - fingers crossed
-a bummer thought: it won’t match anymore if I go 4040/2040 doom soon but if I the matched that then I can fit a 5th spool in there!
Got a happy notification today! But also forgot to remind myself to get new closed loop belts... as well as the first piece the next project (:
True 300 cubed legggo
OCD me hated 280mm build volume. no real NEED for it but I can finally scratch that itch and then some !
For when I get chube + takeoff or trinity hehe
Think I found a nice sleek blue to add a lil personality to voronica!
Polymaker fiberon ASACF. Voxel midnight blue was too dark, Ambrosio blue PCCF was too vibrant
Forgot about this thing in the closet!
He’s alive and conscious!
Wired up 3.5 waveshare LCD as well as EBB36 gen2 THB in USB configuration.
Then I find out I have to disassemble part of the frame because I can’t cleanly peel the ACM panel 🥲
It’s beautiful! 🤩
Too bad closed loop 9mm EPDM is backordered. My current belts might disintegrate if I disassemble 🥲
Is there a tutorial? Is this the right printer? How do I install this?
Jk but also found out my fiancés sister also just got a free printer from her company 😭
Great news you got it. What are them purple cloth pieces are for haha.
I think just to lift the pieces out without scratching. It’s a nice detail wasn’t expecting it
Fair can't wait for mine. Also you putting it right at this time or you gonna wait?
Nah my current belts I barely was able to mount due to a tear. It’s holding tension and graphs are good for now but It might disintegrate if I disassemble.
So I’m waiting on new closed loop 9mm belts from @grand smelt since they were out of stock everywhere else. Thanks to some recommendations from monolith guys
How do you plant to mount closed loop belts on Vitalli3D carriage?
oh damn thouse belts are a minute away from snapping, especially the lower one
You cut it
The belt
The reason to get a closed loop belt is they are cut straight, so your belt does not walk as much.
Ah fair i thought u just mount it the way it is somehow without needing to cut which sounds awesome 😄
It wouldn't necessarily give any benefits to have a complete closed loop, and it would also require the belts being added during assembly of the Gantry which would be a pain
I switched to universal belt clamp and used an adapter
Yeah I had to pretension up to like 180hz just to clamp past that area temporarily. My fingers did hurt a little from pulling even with the tool hahahahahahha
Belts should go out tomorrow. Just got them packaged up quickly before I leave for my trip.
Thank you have a safe trip!
Hexagon bestagon! Love it when vision becomes real and doesn't clash! Original acm was brushed alu (wasn't aware I could get white). Wrapped white then layered with transparent hex pattern
@slender mural correct direction this time! your words no longer haunt me hehe
when are you going to get that left fan duct properly assembled on that anthead? 
Belts arrive?
Working on NSB BT SpoolersGrey trigger mount looks like boogers will eventually reprint
Working with CF filled ASA is not very fun, hands definitely starts itching after a bit - glove up!
In honor of voron's cascade release a few weeks ago....
Decided to pull the trigger on a desktop CNC, specifically the Makera Z1 Pro!
I've always wanted to learn how to machine - good thing my fiance's father is a retired machinist! (for medical parts tho)
No DIY CNC since I don't know wtf I am doing and I don't need another project lol
maybe I can machine some parts I had planned to get SLM printed hehe TBD
Thank you for fast service! And the only vendor in stock!@grand smelt
Closed loop belts came in! Can finally knock out the CNC conversion!
Some puzzle pieces came in for the next milestone. Finally ready to join the big boys!
Next: structural panels or no? Fiancé and guests likes to watch the printer go brrrrr
-Also not sure if I want to go top electronics since I’m already adding 50mm to Z
Decision fatigue is real!
Also… This will be a complete frame and I’ll have a spare 300mm v2 frame sitting around…. Is there a Toolchanger in my future????
Just realized one year ago today Voronica was serialized!
Very nice. From features it offers looks like good entry cnc machine for small projects.
NICE
I need to get a cnc to do awsome cnc slm stuff
Very excited to learn and ready to graduate beyond dremel and angle grinder “machining” 😬
CNC gantry swap was such a chill experience with the built in alignment features! No stress at all.
LDO 4040 Doom corners +50Z came to complete the 4040/2040 extrusions
Set. Not yet sure how I want to do the panels yet so currently going through builds
built in alignment features
yea right? lasercut gantry was a giant pain in that regard
YEA and no matter how much you try it was never quite perfect
Also started working on all metal wwbmg. It looks so tough!
Now I know what to expect to SLM processing. Bearing holes reamed due to shrinkage. Had to reduce some of the alignment features that relied on flexing of plastic.
Good news gears don’t bind and rotate/mesh freely, no shimming needed
About 10g+ (without sensors )
i wonder if the extruder gears will get hot enough to melt pla/petg/abs
they did on a all metal sherpa mini v2 😄
I don’t think I encountered that my sherpa, but I know it has that black filament path
insert thing. I wasn’t sure how to add that this test run
yay no boom success time to break in new closed loop belts!
Unfortunately 4040/2040 build will take a bit while I figure out how exactly I want everything 😭
Holy shit it actually prints
Might be last time assembled until 4040/2040 doomish conversion!
Man I Love mono panel but hate the friggin clips! 2x more clips does NOT equal 2x more easy and secure
Ended up drilling out the corner clips and bolting the panel down 🙃
Are these from 2020 frame no reinforcement?
Yessir w/ beacon. Although I had ghosting until dialed down to 18k MZV.
Can you post your graphs?
Please 🙏
graphs haven't changed much, I'm definitely toolhead limited as is. vibration is from this same run (4/5/26) .
I print outer/inner at 160/250 for quality
I took toolhead apart again so nothing super recent lol
is 16 scv ok to use for input graphs? wasnt aware but your y is very nice
I think 5scv for diagnostic purposes iirc. I havent looked too deeply into tuning yet until my chube comes in
I'll put it back together and do a run, I haven't broken in the new belts yet.
slight vfa, no ghosting. I think PA needs a lil bump
Is ghosting for speed issues and vfa is something else?
My basic understanding of ghosting is from the resonance you get from high accels and vfa from high belt tension/motor artifacts. So a combo of both effects can compound if untuned
I’m def the wrong person to ask lol
To be honest with my amateur eyes this looks good already lol
Thank you for sharing
Stelth endstop striker mockup. Adjustable SLM one on the way. Still refuse to use sensorless lol
Looks so clean 👌
Latest beacon graphs with closed loop 9mm epdm + CNC monolith AWD. Pushed a little harder with APH=125. Belts @ 200hz. 2504AH x 5160t @ 2.5A Pretty much the same wall I've been hitting with 2020 frame and printed toolhead.
Any idea with that X?
Protoype IN3Dtec SLM stuff came in!
Experimenting with custom rigid toolhead - (Not planning on releasing due to design around my own personal needs)
Thank you sensei @wicked storm for your guidance and helping this noob source gucci AirTac rails for upcoming 4040/2040 300mm+50mmZ build!
tempted to install the X rail tonight! - is mobil1 EP2 grease sufficient?
Nice!!! Ep2 is fine
Sorry if this is a stupid question, I'm new and full of stupid questions -- what's the toolhead with the screen on it called? Coolest thing I've ever seen
is it knomi?
Yup Knomi, I miss it but it had to go for performance and print quality reasons. Reminds me I might want to stick her in the skirts or something
I did see some other people put them in the toolchanger docks themselves which is a cool idea. I read most of your build guide, super well documented and really fun to read, thank you for sharing. Did you find most of your performance increase by lightening weight in the toolhead itself (like by removing Knomi), by making the frame/gantry more rigid, or by switching from 24-48V? I love the idea of Knomi being on the toolhead so much I'm trying to decide if it's aesthetically it's worth it to trade off the performance/print quality concerns and maybe I can make it up elsewhere or if it's simply just too heavy to be on the toolhead itself
Oh wow really appreciate that glad to hear it. I really had no idea what I was doing just experimenting as I go but it was a fun jorney. Still have no idea wtf I'm doing since I also prioritize esthetics lol but I've come to slightly better understand that simply: Rigidity > COM > Mass
But everyones setup is different, if you're not pushing speeds/accels maybe knomi wouldn't impact your print quality. I never bothered to try knomi again since I didn't want to introduce any possibility of a performance hit. You could probably still find a way to rigidly mount it in a better COM friendly spot and get away with it. Stealthburner was definitly a huge limiting factor though Moreso than knomi
you jinxed me! TOO SOOON my metal extruder clogged! My sherpa V3 had these PEEK inserts that isolated the filment from the body. Maybe I can try to retrofit these or do the peek filament path like what you and hank mentioned. And like what burgos extruder does.
:D yea that peek insert is what makes the v3 the much better extruder comparted to v2 lol
sad day flying gantry cam died in the line of fire.
Knew that heatsink wasn’t enough with it being only rated for 70C and living 99% of its life near a 110c hotbed
Safe to say I’m stubborn 
Looks really clean. Would you be able to share the stl please?
here ya go idk how long they will last since I didn't use them for to long
I did get this SLM adjustable striker made though using sheetmetal CAD
Oh this is nice. What size bolts are you using to attach it ?
Since these aren’t countersink I ballparked 10mm bhcs
i also assume you tapped the part yourself? for the actual part, did you use jlcpcb or pcbway?
Curious if you are still working on an SLM WWBMG? I’m having the worst time with mine… from what I can tell after the extruder heats up a bit, it gets a little soft and doesn’t extrude correctly. It will start printing fine, then start printing like shit. And it’s printed out of ezpccf, which has always been great
I was thinking of just doing an SLM motor plate, then o remembered you were doing this
i think he had heat creep issues with the slm wwbmg
Did you ream a 2mm filament path? Mine actually printed relatively fine about 1 clog after 200ish hours of printing. I have a peeek tubing on the way from Burgos to try.
She’s just a gorl
did you just take the standard wwbmg and send it off for slm? or did you have to make changes to it?
Sorry I didn’t use my words good lol. I’m having issues with my ezpccf printed WWBMG, and want to try an SLM version. I think the rigidity will help a lot.
Yeah, I skeletonized it to save weight. I think I posted it in the thread around Nov/dec. Definitely needs more editing since it was designed to be printed so post processing took me a while to get it to fit nicely.
Can’t say for sure, tripoding the THB mount did the most noticeable reinforcement. My IS hasn’t improved since going monolith/awd. I’d have to fix some other issues I’m having before I test it again. I’m toolhead limited right now I think
Started a CAD to plan the upcoming 4040/2040 Build.
Order placed for 4mm structural panels for all sides through xometry (which was the cheapest surprisingly AND with black anodizing)
I plan to countersink the mounting holes for flush hardware and add maybe a 3mm chamfer around the panel edges to blend (no idea how I'm goign to achieve this, a router?)
Someone told me about threaded nutbars…. And I just had to look into it 😭
Got a cheapo dial indicator - no idea how to use this, but anticipating I’ll have to learn once I get into CNCs
Started threading all the new extrusions with a jig (not sure if overkill)
Getting these packages is pain but also joy hehe
Gucci misumi machined brackets and matching misumi roll in nuts should help with building a square frame.
HBKTSB5
HNTP5-5
Misumi roll in nuts vs generic - look at all the clamping surface area (in addition to nutbars for everything structural).
Was Super excited to start the new build until I remembered who needs to tap all these nutbars 🙃
Proof of concept
Pls make modularity cool again. Really just wanted a rigid hotend mount + XOL-like carriage for my fav toolheads.
No idea if my chube is going to get done this year so plastic chube so I might know what it feels like 🥲
Wow black takeoff got me feeling feelings again annnnnnnnd takeoff order placed! Maybe I’ll finally try at home anodization
Also never knew takeoff was so smol and how monsterous stealthburner is lol
4mm structural panels canonized black from xometry!
And Nut bar pain 🥲
I think I’d rather use the front motors as a striker instead of introducing another point of lost build area 
looks sweet!
Yay rigidity but anyone can see this is terrible COM and obviously topheavy
Cleaner graphs and Marginal improvements prob within margin of error. Takeoff toolhead ordered for next iteration but for now I should prob be satisfied with this for a THB+filamentcutter setup.
Mild Steel nutbars tapped and prepped for bluing/black oxide coating
Busted out the good ol granite slab to mockup the new frame
Took all weekend but Finally got the frame squared. Test fitting the structural top deck and bottom panels first. And mile success! Slight interference with the front bracket but easy fix.
No doubt I’ll probably bring back the hexagon wrap for round 2 
First time bluing steel for the nutbars! Kinda tedious doing all of these lol
Finally squared the frame which took all weekend! Had to finish the nutbars first before starting which sucked. And then I got the test fit the structural panels. So glad I decided to do too and bottom decks as well.
Thanks google photos! My first toolhead upgrade - XOL papi
The day that I really fell deeper into this rabbit hole 😭
Hehe a fun snap while we wait for clanker blue carbonara! For now a Little pause on build for Tomorrowland!
Some SLM goodies!
Modified SLM takeoff for wwbmg sleekness
And v2 skeletonized wwbmg built in ptfe/peek filament path
Just waiting for my chube air whenever that comes 
Not too happy with quality of v2 finish tbh
Partsssssss
waveshare 11.9 screen
takeoff delta fans
crimps
extrusion inserts
cable channel for v0
and single piece glass holder for doom door!
Hopefully acceptable COM - better than what I've ever had with rough CAD estimated mass of 440g. Seems accurate enough 250g + 80g motor + chube 70g
= 400g w/ cutter (40g should make up missing hardware, wiring, etc)
TakeoffWWBG COM vs Rigid A4T COM vs Printed A4T COM (all roughly the same ammount in inaccuracy
)
Didn't realize my frankenstein rigid A4T had better/similar COM to the proposed takeoff. Nice!
TakeoffWWBG COM vs Rigid A4T COM vs Printed A4T COM (all roughly the same ammount in inaccuracy
)
Didn't realize my frankenstein rigid A4T had better/similar COM to the proposed takeoff. Nice!
Clanker Blue carbonara!!!!! @grand smelt @wicked storm
Finally figured out how to upload high quality videos. I was wondering why everything looks so bad. Officially an unc
Skeletonizing wwbmg? saved 10g with this. Should be around 30g (close to cnc sherpa) Definitely matches takeoff style more.
I think I'm going to try my hand at annodizing the toolhead black at home!
Awesome!
🧐
Are you still using the G2Z-XL's by chance?? How good are they working out?
@rain swift i got some jlpcb coupons for cnc and SLM and pcb, got any goodies to get?
I have CNC stock style ones from funssor. No experience with g2z sorry!
Anything in mind? You have monolith now right? I’d also check out @grand smelt store for SLM monolith stuff if you’re stateside! I had to order multiples of parts from in3dtec stuff due to warpage.
Mmmmhmmm
Idk how I didn't see this
Wait CNC Sherpa looks pretty nice with skinny takeoff…
But then anodized all black!!!
1+yr later finally got this BT working nicely. Need to redo beauty panels and maybe smoke the lid. Plans to actively dry filament.
Finally re-squared the frame to the point that I’m satisfied with thanks to pro tips from @sweet trellis the man himself!
(LDO corners are different widths than Misumi = huge headache)
Legs!!!!!
Awesome glad it worked for you as well!!
I think I’m going to keep the hex vinyl on structural panels And also hex smoketint on the BT panels!
Still have no idea how I’m going to do insulation since no chamber heater for now… Patiently waiting for @tacit pecan to test and iron things out 🤣
Stock 300mm build w/ bedfans @ 80% and 110C bed hits 70C after maybe an hour of printing measured back of gantry/Y endstop and another therm hanging off umbilical arm. (Avg difference between the 2 is about 5C)
I got my nevermore stealthmax 2 installed and setup. I'm printing some 'jack stands' for my printer right now then I'll flip it over and run a thermistor to the gantry and can get a better idea how well chamber heating is working
Hmm, that smoke tint is neat. I may want to get a roll myself.
There is a slight purple hue to it. I placed it on the inside to get a glass look on the outside but the opposite is looking nicer hmmm
I might do that to my side panels. I have left the plastic peel on for now as it has a nice frosted look. The other option was a full privacy film.
@rain swift initial testing got me to 50c in 5 minutes, 55c in 9 minutes, 60c in ~20 minutes. I still have a gaping hole at the rear back of the deck panel, I haven't put Z belt covers in, and I haven't installed the LDO blind joint plugs yet.
I also need to test jacking up the nevermore sm2 fan higher to help with air circulation, have only been running it at 40% when i could go to 100% and really mix up the chamber air during pre heat
i would like to get the SLM Sherpa you have, you got any files for it?
what is that dryer you have?
The LDO plugs are pretty nice I bought 2 packs. Do you think nevermore is taking heat out of the system? I'm still on the fence about this, might stick with bedfilter tbd.
I have fystec cnc sherpa mini v3 its pretty nice I may end up using it again if my slm wwbmg project turns out bad
Which are you referring to? I have west3d's filament toaster, gatkit dryer, and a turtle box mmu I'm going to convert to dryer
Doom door! with 2x 5mm tempered glass, went with 1 smoke and 1 clear incase it wouldve been too dark.
Had the glass holder printed in a single piece w/ Asa with my last in3dtec order! Very secure hold on the glass - holds itself together without extrusions lol.
Was also able to fit 1mm foam tape in the extrusion channel to hopefully improve seal
I do think the nevermore SM2 is going to add more thermal mass to the system and complicate the chamber steady state temp, but I also think it acting essentially as a convection fan is a big bonus that outweighs the much smaller negatives
what are your plans for the hinges? that door is heavy AF at this point right?
I went with dual PC panels, inner panel 3mm outer panel 1mm. looks like our window holders are pretty similar too but I did make mine 2 or 3 parts per side so I could still print at home
Generic misuimi replica ones from amazon, 4 for like 15 usd. I haven't tried it with glass yet but I trippled up so fingers crossed. Else misumi ones are like 40usd for 2!!
I basically just adapted alx's design for my needs. Was trying to go for that seamless look.
https://discord.com/channels/1227971059764953230/1506492845505253486
I hope it will feel as nice as clickyclack
ah, yeah I almost went for the misumi ones, but I think the spacing wasn't ideal? I don't remember anymore.
This may be amazing but highly likely can turn into an expensive mistake...
4 new ugly gucci for the planned upper and lower electronics in addition to the existing 4. (6 on top bay in push/pull, 2 bottom pull fans). I've only seen one good result online and old broken threads. Hope I can achieve this kind of result: (https://www.reddit.com/r/Noctua/comments/1pno2kq/dyeing_noctua_pc_fans/).
boy math tells me biscuit is forsure worth the risk since these ugly brown skirt fans have tortured me for a year plus
Guess I should start prepping takeoff for when my chube air starts shipping out... surely it won't get delayed...
Lapped every mounting surface a little bit warpage was minimal this time around thank god. I did have to do ghetto maching with a drill press for the hotend mount surface though.
And then a bunch of aluminun CNC and SLM parts into the tumbler over night to prep. Tomorrow I will trying to anodize at home for the first time. Hopefully it won't be a hotmess.
Before middle and after! Could use some polishing to remove the last of the scratches but later. This was exhausting doing it manually with a drill press lol
Trying a different look.
Finally grew a pair and wrapped the bottom structural panels! Initially worried I was going to gouge the anodizing when trimming the edges (like my ACM panel but these edges are more exposed and visible) but we pulled through somehow with crisp cuts!
Working on darkmatter skirts for my needs. Keystones for days + flush fan mounting for 60x60x25mm fans.
Oh and Knomi the one that got away 
Still pondering how I’m going to do umbilical from top electronics.
This one’s waaaaaay too big and not sure how I can cleanly route with Bowden. Also gets in the way of swing arm (can’t move to the side because my brain likes symmetry).
Using exhaust cutout with pug style would solve that but having the umbilical leave the top electronics bay skirts and reenter the exhaust cutout seems sloppy and defeats the point of top electronics bay kinda
R3 Graphite bed + R3 5015 pwm fans for bed filter fan as well. Goal is faster heating and maintaining chamber temps esp with all alu structural panels. Ideally I wont need chonky insulation to counteract the panels heatsink effect
Which mod is this? I love this idea vs anchoring the panels with clips
https://discord.com/channels/1227971059764953230/1506492845505253486
Edited these mounts for my needs. But the main one should be in the doom cube GitHub
Fan Soup = Great Success!
Not worried about the oil in the bearings?
So far nothing funky, normal operation @100% . Still just as quiet and smooth rotation all around. Cook time was about 30mins so I hope the sso2 bearing seal wasnt compromised. Guess time will tell honestly
So far nothing funky, normal operation @100% . Still just as quiet and smooth rotation all around. Cook time was about 30mins so I hope the sso2 bearing seal wasnt compromised. Guess time will tell honestly
i am disturbed 
lol all i do is lock into the most random sidequests for this build and go off the deep end even for the tiniest details 
next up instead of working on the doom conversion, Im giong to try to anodize all my new slm toolhead stuff. my garage is starting to look like a meth lab with all the chemicals
So I have a CNC now with no cnc experience 
i am not at all jealous LOL - looking good!
I would love to by a z1 as well but its a nono in an apartment sadly
Haha can you give up a printer? 
It’s surprisingly compact vs a 300mm v2
oh yea it looks really small
im more concerned about noise and vibrations when it cuts haha
The irony of me avoiding CPAP on my printer is noise hahahahahhaha
yea im not totally convinced of cpap just yet. I am rebuilding my trident right now and im adding all the holes for the cpap tube but it just seams way to loud to be usable
id rather print a bit slower or use a less speed oriented toolhead when it means that i can print without annyoing my neighbours LOL
maybe il just go with chube compact and Trinity and ditch the big chube 
I want any chube at this point 😢
yea lukes been busy lol
but apparently compact will arrive in the next 2 weeks for me
oh damn haha
do you run it in a workshop? or indoors?
Right now in living room since I’m still unboxing, but this is starting to look like a workshop/garage machine especially if I want a dust collector
Swapping out CNC Z idlers to transfer to new frame @snow basin's back to chaoticlabs/btt - and remembering how clunky they are.
Then testfit w/ structural bottom panel! Perfect fit!
Modified the pf tension meter to be readable from all sides.... except I still can't see the needle 
Finally got a nozzle adxl to test!
Ran into a problem - waveshare 11.9 HDMI has completely new mounting so made brackets - untested
gasket was cut specifically for my build - ymmv
Thanks @winter loom for finding herogamer's version although not sure if it works with darkmatter skirts
#1232628655595847720 message
Ran into a problem - waveshare 11.9 HDMI has completely new mounting so made brackets - untested
Thanks @winter loom V2.7611 VS.905 V0.4056 for finding herogamer's version although not sure if it works with darkmatter skirts
#1232628655595847720 message
Solid. Worked out for now.
Wow my hand lapping was NOT great. First pass vs 3 passes (-0.06mm). Although caveman technique it should be true-ish and square-enuf 
Are you planning on doing multi-color prints with Takeoff? I have been kicking around the idea, since A4T is struggling with cooling.
Yup hero’s setup convinced me! #1366900007038615552 message
I really like how he combined the takeoff plate with cutter mount to be one piece. My takeoff has different mounting holes so I can’t use it but I’m going to steal his idea for mine. He does sell it last I saw thru west3d.
But I don’t really do multicolor printing I just really value not having to change filament manually 
I’m in the same boat with my a4T. I wasted a lot of effort making it SLM/rigid but quickly outgrew the cooling abilities lol.
Takeoff w/ chube hopefully should be my endgame. I know trinity is a higher performance alternative
YESSSSSSS THE DAY FINALLY CAME
Yeah, I have been following Hero's build. I've used Takeoff in the past, but I hate the belt clamp system and you can't run the fans over 50% without VFA's... but even at 50% it would be far more cooling an A4T.
If I was better with CAD I'd love to mod Takeoff to use the Apex clips like Trinity. Then kind of build in the Monolith belt clamp into the back of takeoff
yea the belt clamp system is horrible on takeoff, i much prefer the monolith belt clamps
For sure. I tried to gaslight Burgo into making a monolith specific version, but it was a quick no lol
I am highly disturbed by this but I'm loving the crackhead energy
as expected 🤣
RIP me haven't tried yet so learning as we go all vibes. I remember you or someone posted something about JBweld + Belt clamp is that takeoff related?
Yeah that’s right. Or if you haven’t ordered the sheet metal clamps, you can go up in thickness.
wait sendcutsend sent me extra clips would stacking them fulfill the same purpose?
It would, but that might be a little tooo thick.
Here is my box of broken dreams. I gave up and went to Trinity with Chube Compact, but I really want to make this work again. I miss Big Chube.
So toolchanger build when?
Well this deep in the hole you have to make it work now no other way forward. LOCK IN
Toolchanger as soon as there is a decent option available… @sweet trellis ‘s project looks super awesome
I been seeing that! Lowkey getting fomo with all the toolchanger hype going around but I def do not need another build
Same! But I’m willing to retrofit my Trident for a toolchanger!
I have an A1 Mini to print dumb little multicolor PLA prints. I’m contemplating a U1 because I’m burnt out on building, tuning, and testing lol
Getting the belts in with monolith was half impossible with me with how burgo designed it 
once they are in they hold but holly molly
yeaaa only reason im hesident is cause i dont want to give up on big chube 
Trinity + mini Chube would be fun just because its so much quieter ten Cpap
I'm barely getting big chube this week after ordering almost a year ago now I all I see is tricorn fun activities 😭
after learning, experimenting and messing around with I think I'm in a stable zen mental space- a decent, solid, stout machine that can play a little with the big leaguers even if just for wee bit
I rememebr last year @robust harness introduced me to monolith stuff talking abotu takeoff and his 2wd setup. at that point in my head I wasl ike why would anyone wnat takeoff - seemed so barbaric and ferra'l I thoought it was the uglies thing enty
Trinity not Tricon, different things 😆
I thought recent trinity stuff involved tricorn for some reason
nope either chube compact or a dragon ace volcano
Oh I was thinking ablution trini-corn
Could always go with El Fuego 
The day noctua makes a CPAP…. I do love how simple and clean fuego and mono looks though
If it ever gets release!
Here is an idea I’m playing around with for takeoff. I’m not sure these belt clamps would work without a high temp polymer, we’re getting SLM’d, but it’s an experiment.
Elfuego the water cooled version is released and EL Fuego air cooled is a soonTM
atleast for me the main issue with takeoff was that it was hard to get the belts into the slot, clamping them down was easy enough even if it isnt great for the belt
Yeah I ruined my belts clamping too tight. I would prefer teeth to hold the belt in place, and also help index to the correct length
Looking forward to see what you come up with! Also the finish on your tool head this way better than mine from in3Dtec lol so I have to do some more post processing
Chube gets here this weekend so I may get to experience this pain soon!
Damn, it’s straight from in3Dtec, but it’s a year old at this point
in3dtec's print quality is 
the slm parts for the slm sherpa micro just fit together with zero post processing
Damn that looks sick!
indeed now it just needs to work as well 
It’s so beautiful
it is indeed! 
The Compact is so mini😅… but cute
So cute!
Burgos SLM TI shield gave the chube an interesting look….
Also forgot to order heater and pt1000 oops, placed another order with Luke but I may just rip them from the dragon uhf since I’m impatient
Slow progress on the build-all top skirt pieces had to be modified to account for 4mm top aluminum structural panel shenanigans to make skirts work. Skirt risers are originally 5mm meaning it would be only 1mm thick at the mounting holes which would’ve been too weak for the front Doom door. (And my additional mounting holes)
Additionally the waveshare 11.9 HDMI fits clean and flush with new mounts we made!
LDO monolith cnc Z joints! Although I currently have Vitaliis I will need the LDO ones to run no protrusion cleanly. May save them for a new build who knows.
im hopefully getting mine soon!
Trying new SLM provider - hopefully last SLM order for a while since we have a CNC now
SLM Takeoff Magneto mount for sherpa bois. Really loved how Herogamer combined his takeoff extruder plate with filament cutter mount into a single piece so took a stab at making my own. Most likely what I will be mainly running.
And my other pet project - skele wwbmg just in time for spooky szn!
Also prob my last time messing this in case I ever need a filament sensor for some reason
Just weight savings - previous interations worked fine and its a time sink.
37g vs 18.4g of CNC Sherpa Mini
For the 4040/2040 conversion we’re keeping the lower Z Chain even with top electronics since I like the Z chain look. finally got to finishing my R.O.B. Hub project. My edit of @quasi bridge ‘s z umbilical edit into an “everything+motor hub”
…Aka hartk Z umbilical + monolith endstop + gantry chamber thermistor and is now an actual hub with quick disconnects (microfit 3x2 w/motor thermistors)!
Really didn’t like the other bulky solutions and tried to keep it as slim as possible. Maintenance should now be possible atleast 😭
Awesome man! Glad to see my junk is still floating around! I literally just disassembled my OG Monolith printer that I developed that Z mount for. It was somewhere north of 5K hours, and every bearing and pulley was totally cooked on it… but Monolith R0 held up amazing long for the last…. 2-3 years of abuse
Holy shit, this looks amazing!! Have you seen Carveoff? That has much better belt clamping, but only works for Tricorn, sadly
Tried my hand at anodizing…
Not sure how I feel about the result but I know I will not try again
Too messy and too many chemicals!
Yeah I’ve seen it but haven’t looked much more into it. Maybe I should once I actually learn how to use my cnc instead of buying more SLM parts (it’s getting too expensive 😭 )
Hmm, I think you tried too many parts at once in that bath.
That was previous unsuccessful attempt 
So likely the current flow was not even.
second time I use titanium wire bolted w/ titanium hardware straight into the body. And only did 1 or 2 pieces at at time. The first time the coating didnt even form and dye didnt penetrate at all.
On the SLM parts , the "black" annodizing is relatively even and not too blotchy.... just not saturated and deep like the annodized cnc parts.
Still a bit of brown sludge remaining from the etch process I have to wipe off from the the tiny crevices
Only picture I took of last attempts after that
Trying to convince myself “it’s black enough” 😭
Holy sidequest my other neglected printer. This V0 was suppose to be a "stock and reliable" printer....
-BoxZero frame conversion kit from dllpdf.com! Was never fan of the stock tophat since this was meant to be an open frame PLA machine, now it looks proper!
-Then found out Tulip gantry was incompatible with BoxZero (my bad habit of "do first, research later").
-First time attempting a custom gantry mod on my own. Fumbled around in fusion to Frankenstein a "BoxZero-Tulipish" gantry with the following:
- Nema 17
- Doublesheer - Longshaft support
- PIN mod every bearing
- Tulip Live-shaft Idlers/XY joints (no changes here).
(thank you @plain prism for providing valuable insight and gifting me a solid starting point https://github.com/Driftrotor/Voron-V0.2r1-Double-Shear-AB-Motor-Mounts/tree/main)
im still very jellous of that pink 🥰
Why \ lights \ ? Whats to the right of the printer?
-Since the v2 got the graphite bed upgrade for faster bed/chamber heating, the v0 also got the LDO Polyimide Bed with the 200w psu as well! This thing took longer than the v2 to heatup.
-Got this SLM fan brace made to compliment the fabreeko CNC carriage we've been using.
-Fystec hollow mgn7 rail and noodle extrusion which we stripped the anodizing to match the build!
-60ish grams saved but not sure how much rigidity we've lost. Tbd.
it was just dangling I didnt want to unplug it and needed to get it out of the way. It was also very late that night hahaha
Fixed my corner rippling issue now I can continue printing DM skirts.
Flush mount for 25mm fans = success! Gotta be efficient and maximize the space gainz from going 4040 frame.
-upper bracket necessary since the skirt is too thin in this upper section for threaded heatserts
What is the idea behind using the CRS pico board in this build? Will the toolhead board be located in the electronics enclosure, with direct wiring running to the toolhead itself?
Just populating the electronics bay with random stuff to help me visualize and plan. Most of my parts will be transferred from current printer into new frame so nothing on hand. But I will be running the ebb36 from top bay with wiring to the toolhead.
Terminator-ahh 4AT looks kinda nutty.
Last round of maintenance for this setup before im ready to swap to new frame and toolhead.
Only had this for a few months but quickly outgrew the 4010s cooling ability but glad I had an idea, made it happen, and had it working very well!
4040/2040 progress: Bottom Insulation.
Decided on 2 layers of 6mm XPE crosslinked foam to help reduce heat radiation from the bottom aluminum plate.
1.Bare 4mm 5052 aluminum bottom panel
2. Layer of Aluminized fiberglass - I know this would work better on the inside of the chamber but shouldn’t hurt
3. First layer of 6mm XPE foam trimmed and adhered.
4. 2nd layer of XPE foam rough trimmed. I may need longer standoffs for the din rails after this one.
@tacit pecan any thoughts on insulation?
Current state of conversion
Current state of conversion
Open heart surgery begins!
Top structural panel fitment check…Looks like I’m able to make use of my current CNC Z drive! But if I’ll have to come up with a way to convert them to Doom Z somehow if I want a nice seal
Hopefully I can salvage some of these stickers for my printer toolbox
Wasn't XPE a big no for some reason?
I forget why at this point, been unplugged for a bit
Or maybe still baseline y u no polyiso? You're light-years passed "because I'd have to paint it" being an excuse lol
Ok found it. Yeah man dump the xpe.
XPE: ~50% R value vs polyiso
Not a good fire safety pick vs polyiso (will melt in thermal runaway vs char not generating fire barrier)
... Build looking absolutely fire btw 🔥🔥🔥🔥
aw back to the drawing board. do you think it's okay to use XPE for the side panels since its not near the heatbed? Im going to get some polyiso boards for the bottom but not a fan of how it looks for the chamber.
Mom: No we have kraken motors at home:
With the gantry apart I can finally clean up the motor thermistor install into a neat self-contained package. Never had issues with the ring style setup we copied from mr. duck but a little more accurate reading from the motor windings wouldn't hurt.
Just wedged a glass bead 100K NTC under the wires and on top of the winding. Also left a huge service loop in case of a rainy day.