#Voronica — The Crackhead 2.4 (300mm Monolith AWD)
1453 messages · Page 2 of 2 (latest)
that cable gland mount looks strangely familiar... dont mind me I am trying to track down the clicky clack door+monolith panels files. What did you use for your final product? because it looks really nice.
ahha never mind I found your post in the monolith discord.
Awesome any feedback is appreciated!
Progress remains slow while we wait for smol Chube to get here. Then I can lock in for more gantry adventures!
It’s as easy as just shoving a female JST housing on DuPont pins 
More sexy torx titanium
I think the last of monolith BOM hardware is finally here. Plus 15mm aluminum standoffs for carbonara diet plan(thx @wicked storm)
Very nice
Ok back together after redoing some wiring. Hopefully no MCU disconnects on extended prints
New Glamor shots since this is the most “complete” the build has been… before I tear it down for an overhaul next month😅
Is this with the new carbonara hardware
Not yet, hopefully this weekend if I don't forget! I am annealling your new inserts printed with PCCF tonight!
Noooice
I MISSED THIS. LOVE OVERKILL BARF. Finally got it working after talking about it so much...
Didn't like the available solution so I whipped something up with my limited CAD abilities (took many weeks)
I wanted to retain OG Stealthburner Sized Voron Logo and carriage style mount while keeping a stealthy blend so the body won't look obviously different.
Still need to print OG SB size voron logo face plate and diffuser. May play with faceplate some more since it kinda looks boring. But really happy with how it turned out
Fyi the xol people hate when people put the voron logo on it kek
oh man i had no clue, whats the lore
It's their work, I wouldn't like someone putting their own "brand" on my tube like they made it 
Also the A4T, it's DWtas baby
yeah thats fair I didn't think about that 😭
That’s a lot of work to save 4g 😅 ( @wicked storm )
Updated Inserts (Al+Ti ) - 16g
OG Inserts (brass + Ti) - 20g
Updated with 2x 15mm aluminum standoffs instead of brass. Annealed PCCF (97% infill). Don’t remember it being this tight of a fit, had to pull out the vice to press everything in. That thang ain’t goin anywhere! I think last time I used a hammer 😗
Yeah, but it's just to optimize a bit, not an upgrade
That’s the same answer I tell my fiancé when she asks why my printer is always down 😇
Hehe
I’m glad someone else thought about using the aluminum standoffs to save weight as well.
ye i made the new bom just to be a little nicer
not really for huge weight loss
unless someone finds titanium ones... 👀
While the toolhead was off, did some tidying up:
Finally got rid of my zip-tie endstop striker! The lever on the endstop rattled like crazy, previously I just slapped heatshrink or foam tape on to silence it. Someone mentioned a while ago suggested to just remove the lever all together and use a precision striker. So we did just that! Very satisfying!
A little bit of cable management - ran out of tiny zip ties but sleeved cables all flow smoothly without looking like a tangled mess (:
And first time testing out quick release belt clamps on @snow basin 's new XOL carriage! No issues there, preserved belt tension and saved us a step! So far loving this feature!
And toolhead mass check -299g
And finally some Carbonara Optimization!
Installed new BOM inserts as well as removed the spacers.
Additionally rail was mounted every other hole like stock.
Initial: 407g
Final : 383g
A total savings of 24g off the X gantry! @wicked storm
AND WE BROKE INTO 9K Y MZV!!!!! - a 200mm/s2 gain (probably a fluke or error but 9K baby!!!!!!! we'll take it!!!!)
2020 stock - 8.5k Y #1376437613233307712 message
stock carbonara - 8.9k Y #1376437613233307712 message
optimized carbonara - 9.1k Y
oooo
24g is a lot
have you noticed a difference?
Haven't really tested anything else, I'm pretty sure this thing is maxed out now and I'm all belt limited
maybe i should make tube helpers for the stock screw patten
Got started on monolith today! No idea what I’m doing, literally just opened up the CAD for the first time today😅
no guides, no tutorials just good vibes 😗
Good vibes is all thats needed but if you get stuck just ping me 😅
Thank you appreciate it! Already had an oopsie, countersunk wrong face on rear motor mount. Its now double countersunk lol. Its functional but ugly I have to get a new one made
.
Also had the tumbler explode all over my garage so that was fun haha had too much stuff in the bowl
feel ya ive got a counter sunk hole thats on the wrong side too 
First time using a tumbler was cool!
- Unfinished 2. Deburring wheel 3. Stone wash finish after tumbler. 4. Tumbling without Deburring
Yeah tumbling wasn’t going to be the magic one step for all I was hoping. Gotta grease up my elbows 🥲
Sidetracked: haven’t found a strain relief step I liked. But I’ve always seen some people run their toolheads without strain relief/pugs which looks so clean.
So why not? let’s get rid of the ugly pug(:
@snow basin CNC ebb36 mount already has what we need to try it out - just layered heat shrink and zip ties(:
Yeah… I had a cnc PUG adapter for some reason that thing was heavy!
Nevermind if failed - I see movement transferring to the connectors.
Now with isolation between frame and the micro fit connectors
This looks like a better idea when I switch to wwbmg https://www.printables.com/model/1158928-wwbmg-ebb36nh36-pug-mount
Werk Werk Werk - there we go the secret sauce was actual manual labor 😭
Our first family portrait (:
Mocked everything up - most processing is done. Ordered some new pieces for the ones that didn’t come out perfect. I may have gotten carried away with the counter sinking! Most of it is hidden but knowing it exists bugs me !
Also found a way to get 5mm spacers instead of stacking 2.5mm ones thanks to the guys on mono channel!
@sweet trellis I hate it hahahaha

But the parts are looking fire sofar!!!🔥
Feeling a little something different for the next year….jk finally started a little work on the v0 again
I like to think the cable sleeving helps structural integrity 😂
This behind shot also looks kinda naughty. But I’m really liking the tear shape wrap around as straight relief
A white v0 frame😍🤤!!
Hope I haven’t spoiled the secret color theme yet haha
The frame hasn’t been touched in months since I’m slowly self sourcing everything (which I think is done, but we’ll see) 😇
WWBMG with dual omron filament sensors. Printed w ambrosia PCCF 100% infill. Super rigid! Swapped over bondtech RIGDA gears from the Sherpa. End weight a little chunkier but so worth it!
Didnt use the side PUG since I broke it.
Live idlers coming along - didn’t order enough pulleys 😭
XOL -> 4AT w/ filament cutter
Still had the dragon uhf cowl I printed a while ago so why not. Smol chube cowl also ready to go whenever that gets sent out. so temp toolheadsetup for now.
It was a very pleasant build compared to XOL.
No more cnc pcb mount nor cnc extruder. All PCCF 100% infill (may try PIF settings for weight savings?)
Ignore ghetto PUG 😅
+30g -1k IS ouch 😭
(Cutter ~ 17g, dual filament sensors ~ 7g)
Sexy
We got live idlers!!!!! This was fun figuring out and satisfying when it all came together!!
I used 100mm ejector pins but was worried about leaving ugly cuts so tested to see if I could leave the head part - wasn’t very pretty so off with the head!
Damn i only bought enough pulleys for the 4 motors, I need 2 more if I want to test out Monolith 2WD too hmmm
Rear tensioner stack ✅
XY Stack ✅
Front Motor Stack ✅
All that’s left is to wait for the last 2 2504 Monolith round shaft motors to come in!
Currently running 2504 D cut motors - not sure how significant the mismatch is but better safe than sorry! Maybe I can throw these on the v0 😅
I’ve never had a printed gantry so this was a new experience
Realized I need to start the monolith conversion in order to salvage 6mm gantry parts to continue the v0 build!
Originally wanted atleast one working printer when doing the conversion/build - too bad for me and poor planning 😭
look good 🔥 .. but no #1259699805693808681 :O
I saw that! but I can only handle 1 gucci build at a time hehe, I keep starting projects that I haven't finished 
This is going to be a PLA machine for my fiance and I don't think she needs crackhead speed (Yet)
@sweet trellis also is this thermistor setup going to work? Or should I bend it so the thermistor body is in more contact with the stepper?
I don’t really want it to be visible hmmm
yea that looks great!
maybe rotate the thermistor 180 degree so that its fully on the motor and possible add some thermal past
Tear down and conversion begins!
Been super nervous to start because if I missed something important I’ll have to get a third printer 
And v0 inside v2 meme snap hehe
All laid out on the ole granite slab and some closeups of CNC ATSS 2WD + frankenstein light XY joint vs AWD Sheetmetal Monolith
Can't forget the titanium and gucci bearings!!!!!
Mock-setup with aluminum hardware - 82g
Semi-final setup with all Titanium - 74g
Sidenote-Currently using TI m3x40 socket head instead of button head, and m3x6mm on the live idler bearings just for weighing purposes, placed an order for correct TI hardware and will use aluminum version in the meantime
Y Rails regreased and completely buttoned up - I ran out of m3x8 because of this (I think I will do the same to the Z rails)
And also repositioned them to hide my scratched up extrusions from all visible surfaces hehe
that looks awesome with the neon green bearings!
More gantry work
@snow basin ‘s CNC rigid Zs - I knew this day would come and I’d have to address it, may have to hack these up or hope M3 hardware will suffice 😭
Front motor wiring - will be sleeved of course!
@sweet trellis what I meant to hide the thermistor - will prob use thermal cement or paste to interface the two. Maybe a heat sink on top hehe
Now for the hardest obstacle I’ve come across - color theme!
-
Keep it clean and stealthy with hints of blue
-
More blue more personality
-
More black more stealthy
-
Or hella in your face blue and bold 🤔
For #1317678719485083748 I went 1 and I really chose where you saw the accent color. I also did a bunch of work hiding as much wire as possible.
Also my tried and true default style for everything! Been thinking lately I play it too safe all the time and maybe should try something new
Also do you have an invite link to stevebuilds discrod you mentioned? I couldn't find it
I DM’ed you the link.
I’d go with the stripped sleeping then.
Or use the solid blue where you want to draw attention.
Looking good!
there's still time
love the colours though
very 
Haha yes thank you for your help with that! It’s perfect! 😁
V0 progress has been slow but very fun to build! (Except I might go crazy if I see another “preload m3 nut”
tulip is definitely on the radar! But for after getting familiar with the stock v0 first hehe
Carnage of the Gantry rebuild and initial squaring on the granite slab
Titanium backers - should I keep this black or strip it to bare Ti for more bling bling?
Since no laser cut service stock 5mm alu sheets, I had to settle with stacking 2.5mm spacers which aligning sucked - someone in the monolith discord mentioned glueing them together a while ago and holy crap it made life so much better! 10/10 recommend!
(note: i'm still trying to get the 5mm pieces cut... maybe jlccnc)
When shawty look like her dating profile pictures 
Rough gantry all squared up and racking was perfect even
New Z chain mount to help manage AWD wiring
9mm EPDM Z belts - purely for esthetics 🥲
This belt clamp aligner thing is amazing! A single 4400mm belt split perfectly into 4x1100mm belts zero error!
Cute Monolith Z clamps printed in PCCF
Motor + thermistor harness = homemade Kraken 😁
Had to get matching monolith 2504ah motors hehe… now I have 6 2504…. Guess I’ll donate it to the v0 😁
Trying to be like @wicked storm with new cable ducting and these euro style terminals to clean up my electronics bay.
Need to terminate
- Mains power
- 24v rail
- 48v rail
- CANBUS terminal
I think I need to vertical mount the PSUs for more space
New screen mount since I broke the current one. Lookin like a Nintendo switch!
Some more sheet metal parts I wanted to redo
Close up of monolith full travel protrusion - couldn’t visualize it for some reason but it worked out!
- note I can’t do my carriage squaring trick with these mounts since it doesn’t allow the carriage to slip between in thru the middle 😭
Brushed finish on the Titabium backers! 😍
Note - sanding titanium sucks it eats up a lot of sand paper
Old endstop setup with @snow basin's XOL mount - graduated from the ziptie!
Hopefully not too hard to recreate with monolith
I like how clean and stealthy this looks haha
Onboard 5160t pro for now - I think I may get standalone drivers eventually. May need to add another set of noctua 4010 to the octorays/octoglasses since I got an overheat warning once running IS back to back a bunch of times at 2.5a
Belts ran
And she’s alive! No magic smoke! (jk crashed at the end because molex broke)
Took a while to figure out the config and get everything to play nice without documentation - the ah-hah moment that clicked was realizing the gantry is now literally flipped so X motor on back right and Y is now back left 😅
Now onto housekeeping stuff to tidy everything up
Home Y first. If the Toolhead is at the very front you'll smash the Part Fan (a friend told me 🙈).
Looks nice
Yep thats how its done with awd
Looking AWESOME!
Thank you!! Any other tips to keep in mind? I know nothing about AWD haha been just figuring it out as I go
Thank you!!! Yeah I broke the extruder tensioner arm this morning 
Ho and use the sync motors klipper macro! Makes awd so so much easier to use
Requires an adxl on your machine and you run the macro after homing and it will sync belts for you
New all metal bondtech RIGDA V2 gears and west3d cool plate 😍
Been dreading this - time to clean up this rats nest
Where is the ebb TMC heatsink?
May need to modify and make this wider to accommodate the sleeving
Thinking about endstop integration - monolith Y endstop plus the Z chain cover (also found in monolith channel)
But some flush cutter action on the current piece for clearance 😂
Modified @jade bronze umbilical side mount to be as flush as possible for WWBMG
Plus another style that should bolt up to @snow basin’s XOL mount - I’m getting this made in SLM currently from JLCNC
And we have monolith! Initial AWD Monolith IS after motorsync!
AWD guys really do have more fun - who let me play with 2wd for so long? 
15k 165mm - so mesmerizing. conservative speeds but I'm content. Waiting for smol chube to dive into fine tuning.
Surprised AWD 48v at 2.5A is barely even audible with linneo double pane PC panels for fridge door 
No mods to the fridge door needed - worked flawlessly with full travel monolith!
@rain swift can you please remind me what IS result you got on 2WD?
300mm 6mm gt2 EPDM 2WD with your double shear. Belts around 175hz. 300g toolhead. Carbonara with no inserts/stock rail mouting pattern. 48v 5160t pro 2.5a
Let me know if that helps!
Awesome! Thanks! Trying to find some data. Just had tests on my gantry v2.4, 9mm GT2 belts, 48v 2.4a
Will work on improvements like carbonara next week
Very nice! I wonder how far I wouldve gotten with your new gantey!
Should I send you mpx ATSS 9mm 2wd? I never got to use it and don’t think I’m going to be build a third printer anytime soon
Thank you, but I have more printers than time at the moment 🙂
Monolith gantry is many years in tests and developed cycle, while mine just couple of months. So I would not be surprised if Monolith performs better
I still have the 2wd monolith plates - I'm very curious how it performs.
But I'm too lazy to make the 2 additional live idlers that it needs 🤣
@rain swift #vendor_promotions message
He said in armchair he still has airs in stock
is this real? its cheaper than smol chube
Yep I think so
Wow
That’s Canadian too
Had no idea they made kirigami bed in other colors 🥲
All good though - some high temp paint and she cute again! Maybe the v0 build will be done by 2027 😗
Lots and lots of monolith housekeeping to do since its such a major conversion!
-Dinky X endstop striker - wanted something lowkey buts so ugy its stands out. and so little material lets see how long this lasts
-Y end stop + monolith version of hartk z chain thing - made it modular for printability
-Tried out this pre tensioner thing that was cool
-lil laser cut 1.5mm spacer for test version of vitalii's carriage instead of using a bunch of shims that flew everywhere during maintenance.
-Found a new pattern for sleeving but it doesn't stand out as much - maybe that was the lighting
-no more ldo 4040 round frames for 300 sad bois ):
Finally made a cover for those 2020 braces to hide the wiring like I've been saying for months -finally stopped being lazy!
Glad the motor wires + thermistor wires sleeved was still just enough thicc that it can be tucked into the 2020 extrusion channels nicely
And since I keep making problems for myself - tucking the motor wires on top means I can't mount the filament cutter striker - this is what I came up with for now - using the front motors as a base!
MORE CARBONARA? oh wait nvm just carbon element for the filter
Looking good! Makes me wish I would have gone Sheet Metal on my new build… but I’m just doing metal XY joints.
Also, love the Z chain mount!
They had to have lost money on that lol
Such a good deal
Sad I missed it
Is there a reason for the double z drive carriages?
Oh thank you! Really ties it in nicely! Although I just broke it 5 mins ago (wasn’t printed with PIF settings 🥲)
I really dig the chain look even tho most of the wire inside are sleeved 😂
Sheetmetal was super intimidating at first but it ended up being very fun and a good learning experience!
It looks sick af !
Jk I think one SLM or CNC joint set does 99% what it needs to , I otherwise noticed no gains just Z loss, more consistent QGL, but terribly annoying setup process!
I bet it was pricey too for the z rails.
Yeah I kept going back and forth over it and takeoff but ended up keeping my smol chube order - atleast I’m not doing a tool changer so no loss for me 😗
Lol
Yeah I may have lost 400$ on that one...
At least I can think that that 400$ went towards convenience 😫
I probably don't need any more chubes anyways. Next printer is probably going to be a real all out build of my own design with all cnc/slm and no extrusions
Just used my stock formbot rails and ordered extra carriages relatively cheap! But when I go 4040 as my next thing I would want more Z for full travel with it (or beyond if I wanna do what Jakob is doing)
Yeah I like jakob's setup he is doing. I guess formbot makes consistent rails because everyone told me I had to get matching rails and blocks lol
Yeah also could’ve saved money bc I ended up replacing with all west zerker for also no gains ( I have pattern of this 🙃) but now a future build is possible 😁
Also did you get the LDO corners on sale?
Welcome to my world... I just got full airtac for my z on SCal
Stock height right? And Is that big money I’m not familiar but I’ve seen that name thrown around
500mm z rails so a little longer. Belts are basically the same length
Z and y are airtac and x is motion perfect
Motion perfect is so expensive
Nice! Yeah, I uploaded those files to the Monolith server awhile ago. I do like the look of cable chains, so I modified HartK’s design for the lower, and created the top piece.
No, sadly not. I actually ordered a set two weeks ago when they were showing in stock… Then I opened the box and they were grey corners. I wanted to cry when they said the blacks were out of stock… so now I’m just waiting for them to get more so I can exchange.
Been learning a lot about belt mounting lately when all I wanted to know was: inside loop or outside loop? 
Using vitalii's early revision xol mount - we spaced out from the carriage 1.5mm - which I've now learned is not the 2.2-2.3 monolith spacing. (I got 2.24 from monolith cad)
Looking at my belts I can see an inwards bow towards the rail - sounds like an easy fix but sounds like I should wait till everyone agrees before I order custom spacer from SCS
Our belts should have been broken in by now after some printing hours! Time for IS testing!
Charts cleaned up a little bit! Looks like we still have room for improvement according to belt diff and noise
SLM WWBMG parts from jl3dp- very impressed! First time doing this process so some mistakes. I see now how I can improve and optimize parts with my next order since some of these keep original dimensions they ended up chonky!
Pretty much perfect fit - but heavy.
Next plan is to study the cnc Sherpa and try to skeletonize/optimize where I can
Keeping the front piece printed since I want dual filament sensor and have a nice esthetic 😅
The PCB mount is way overkill - I can trim away some fat with a grinder no need to remake I don’t think
Remade my motor harness thicc and girthy - first time around they were lanky and dumpy. The Z chain is so full but neat 
Finally ditched the carto for beacon! feels gud to support . Dollar store wig vs Full salon blow out you can see where the effort went haha
thats ALOT of pink zipties - does that mean we're finally wiring up the v0.2?
-No because why did I go into this project thinking I can reuse all my v2 parts? 
Not happy about the sleeving - it turned out to be a Neon pink - not our pastel pink - tbd it clashes very strongly
Why did I waste 50 bucks on a picobilical kit when I have extra ebb36 to use for CAN 
Liddo pink flower knobs on matching Keenovo bed heater hehe
Just a little electronics optimizing right?
Monolith vertical UHP mounts to free up some space.
Trying it those UK termination blocks. So far I like.
A little carnage to the ACM panel while remove those cable ducts….
Oh my god what have I done
It looks great! Is there a reason why you wanted to cram everything on the bottom instead 5050 split with top and bottom or sidepack?
Unless I’m going all out tool changer I want minimal changes in foot print since this is replacing a tiny Bambu x1

And have to keep it living room friendly /not look like a commercial factory machine to keep the fiance happy with it
And thank you! I only recently (beginning of summer?) started learning about experimenting beyond stock/bom voron for my first diy build. So no concrete plans just winging it day by day!
Funny enough, you reminded me I had these and I wasn’t about to crimp all the JSTs back o my motor harness just to cut them off again…. So I started making
Room….
External drivers just look awesome
Every time I see the wiring. It reminds me of mine
Gimme that skateboard grip tape lookhad extra heavy duty textured vinyl from lining my garage toolboxes
Mainly wanted to convert to Horizontal Electronics DIN rails since the vertical orientation never made sense to me and these seems more space efficient
Rare v2 underbelly shot lol - wish inverted electronics for v2 was a thing - that hooded bed mod? Is any good?
Hooded belt?
This time I'm going to sleeve the underside wiring - some... not all... for now I think. I got a different blue/black one I posted earlier. It looked better in pictures but we'll see. I used it to sleeve the beacon cable to run alongside the one we have
https://mods.vorondesign.com/details/TmE2ogJM6EYetii4uD1GQ
Never actually seen a build with it in the wild
You guys make me want to change my profile image to my tabby but i've had this one since 2016 
Man wtf is this
What is your pfp of?
You should go for 79° chamber temps
Get one of Wayne's new "spooky boxes"
Down the line for sure maybe after 4040/4020 conversion or when I get back into car parts. I still have one I made for my Bambu in order to print my initial voron parts hehe
Lol
I no longer have my x1c
It was replaced with a qidi plus 4 and it wasn't missed
Ruff draft of placement
-may have cut motor harnesses a little shorter than I’d like - no longer that center vert ducting
-to have box of duct including alongside fan skirts like before
-switch to double banked uk terminals - maybe for motor
-I have a bunch of 5inch DIN rails to be creative with.
- usb hub(s) in that bottom spot?
I probably should’ve printed the external driver mount before starting 🤗
You can still print (or have someone print) the driver mount 🤪.
Which ones do you use for the external ones?
I only know of those or individual ones for a separate DIN rail.
https://www.printables.com/model/1172197-din-mount-for-btt-octopus-pro-4x-btt-tmc5160t-plus
https://www.printables.com/model/988001-btt-tmc5160t-pro-awd-mcu-board-mounting-bracket-fo
sir duck mentioned this one I think. I think I wanted to measure my clearances once I mocked everything up cuz its gonna be tight how I envisioned
I'm gonna zip tie them to cardboard in order to print the mount loooool 
Ok it's basically the same thing, just green🙂.
It's a shame I don't have room for external drivers (and I don't feel like rewiring everything 😅)
oh yeah and print a fan case for it too since their basically the same right?
Just put the fan over it and you're done. I'm not a fan of putting drivers in a closed case.
https://www.printables.com/model/871454-btt-tmc5160t-plus-case#preview.ShDMH
even like this one?
sawzall go brrrrr or 4040 time 
Yeah, something like that.
It's a bit too closed off for my taste. But everyone's different.
4040 no longer fits my frame due to the outer dimensions 😭.
I ended up getting the solid heatsink ones on sale. 8 for the toolchanger setup.
That would be the more sensible option for me as well.
Guys it’s not Black Friday anymore @long gull @terse nexus 
They aren't cheap anymore lol. They were down to 31$ a piece and now they are back up to 60-70
Oh what I didn’t realize that’s how steep the cut was
Yeah I got bullied in the monolith server because everyone had thought I spent 60$ a piece
I'd like to ask you to avoid using that term on this server. We attract a very neuro-divergent community and the phrase is offensive to many. If you could change the word to something else it would be appreciated, otherwise the post may be removed
I am sorry. I am 59 years old and only recently has the term been so offensive to people
I forget
Its been a good like 15, 20 years now
Just saying
Well, that's just how it always is with a hobby😅.
Im an idiot, this was all SLM stainless steel - thats why they're so heavy 
JLCNC only does SS or TI I just found out
PCBway is the secret 🤪.
thanks got a few to try, JLcnc just added tariffs and wild shipping on when I attepmted a new order 
Yes, Trump has really pushed his policies through, and the little guy has to suffer 😪.
Unfortunately, it's no different for us Europeans when we want to order something from the USA 🥴.
yes kinda maybe. us tarrifs only apply to americans and not for us ordering from the us
Then the items have only become more expensive because the customs duties are passed on to the products 🤷🏼♂️.
anyways lets not talk politicts in here 🙂
I might need this ..
It is awesome but probably a bad idea. There is a reason why the ideal material for an extruder is milled peek
The mix between the bolted milled and printed parts can become a nightmare at higher motor temps
Heat transfers through the motor and into the gears/filament much faster.
If I ever get a bondtech I think Burgos sells an SLM Lgx or something with peek filament line
No I mean the whole extruder milled out of peek
Titanium is better than nothing but not exactly ideal. I have one of the slm repacks on order
It was an impulse purchase with tricorn
I have some peek blocks that were scrap from work that I might end up doing something with
Spacers
Plastic screws
Gg
Not perfect though 😕
Ugly color
My 17mm extruder motor was crazy hot which wasn’t a problem when I had my CNC Sherpa. But my 20mm 6t extruder motor just came in so I don’t think heat will be an issue. Still waiting for smol chube. I’m gonna get this piece remade in SLM Ti after I skeletonize it some more. The main WWBMG is still printed pccf so I hope that should be okay for now.
Main reason for all this is mmu compatibility + esthetics or else I would’ve gone takeoff (which may end up happening anyways). I saw SLiM XOL a while back so I may play with that or try to do a a4T version with my basic cad abilities lol.
Toolhead hardware is all Ti so hoping heat transfer is minimal.
High accel/speed printing is still new to me so I’m still figuring tuning - haven’t outrun my 4010s yet and I absolutely hate CPAP haha
Paint 
Electronics overhaul is a lot more work than I thought and progress has been slow with the holidays.
24v into Manta and 48v straight to standalone driver? @terse nexus
Got the correct PSU for the v0 but wrong outlet/switch 🥲
Should be correct
You can get a new resistor for those external drivers
So you can have usable rsense
dang I just placed a digikey order last week thank you
Voronica — The Crackhead 2.4 (300mm Monolith AWD)
These are cool! 😍 Goodbye ugly 5-pin JST @slender mural
I don’t think that is my design if those are the FYSETC ones.
oof my bad! That's embarassing I'll have to check when I get on a computer. Got you coffee instead!
I don’t get anything either way for the design so I really don’t care.
Can’t have that! 
I’m not in it to make money, only to make the world a better place.
Noooooo made these nice and pretty after cutting to size and adding exhaust cutouts just to discover this major oversight. Turns out white was the wrong color choice when it’s up against black skirts. Ordered black cable ducting but holiday shipping sucks ugh.
Added some grommets for the cutouts in the ACM panel. These panel edges are sharp and sketchy. Round grommet in a square hole was meh but it’s secure, function > form I guess
From Black Friday haul - Finally found my Goldilocks electric screw driver!!!! Stronger than those tiny 3v pen ones but tame enough for M3/M5 hardware without destroying them! No more lazy sketchy impact driver action heh
Do you know What problems I will face with running stock resistors? I saw people talking about it in mono discord but I haven’t really looked into it much. I put in an order for 0.075 ohms ones, should I just wait till I change them out before using the externals?
Also ordered SLM clamp from in3dtec so ignore my earlier ping 😅
I don't know. This will be my first time running external drivers
Sunon fans for the external drivers - 12v + Tach since Im planning to run them independently (not on board)
Gucci west3d F623 bearings for the v0
LDO 6T nitride gear motor since I destroyed the brass 8t with improper meshing (woops)
Hi I’m Denald and my hobby is starting projects that I don’t finish!
V0.2 - keep ordering wrong parts w/o realizing until too late. Fiancé not very motivated.
Formbot Boxturtle kit - I’ve had since MAY 🤡
V2 electronics overhaul - Trying to be clean and cohesive. Pretty much every wire is being remade due to length differences and janky crimp/sleeving mistakes.
-Good example is my inconsistent and sloppy exhaust fan wiring where I tried to reuse the noctua sleeving and stacked a bunch of heat shrink that made the run super stiff. Now they are trimmed, joined, extended and sleeved as identical as I could manage cuz symmetry is sexy 🥴 ( still WIP until I get final measurements)
Z Motors - Replacing and sleeving these awful Moons motor cables that disintegrates if you blow on it.
And finally My car is also overdue for an oil change I’ve ignored for 2 months heh
CAN U SEE DA VISION?!
Self sourced v0.2 starting to look like a printer finally!
Mounted ACM bottom panel wrong way - but may leave it like this and sleeve the bed umbilical (no cable chain)
Elite power switch mounting - no questions asked.
And first start with mains power - no magic smoke! Then turning the SKR Pico into a can bridge Using this waveshare CAN Transceiver.
waiting for some more stuff
- white heatshrink tubing to complete the pink sleeving
-ebb36 gen2 to start wiring toolhead
-a working v2 to print rest of the skirts
https://www.printables.com/model/988001-btt-tmc5160t-pro-awd-mcu-board-mounting-bracket-fo
Pretty much remade this external driver +Manta moutn from scratch since editing the stl kept crashing my computer.
Simplified it and shifted the drivers 12mm to the left since they will hit my Z motor.
temporarily wiring up the onboard drivers to print some stuff before finalizing locations and wiring length
such a big difference still compared to before!
As well as successful first start up since the tear down - no magic smoke but btt canbus cable took a shit (zero continuity on both the 26awg wires - trimmed like 12 inches from both sides and didnt' even eliminate the break GGs BTT)
Which reminds IGUS never shipped my chainflex cable from over a month ago - so I can make a CAN+USB umbilical with all 20awg....
Zero motivation until the correct black duct ways came.
Grommet didnt work lol - so reused that stock sheath thing that came in the formbot kit. Bedtherm and Bedfan cabling sleeved together more tidiness.
Have this hard fystec build sheet magnet - which I will absolutely not use either with that logo (magic eraser /ipa, acetone didn’t work) .
My magnet sheet had a hard clear layer on it initially until one day I printed on it directly and ripped off 🥲 (blessed by bedmesh gods - no issues from this)
Don’t be me the idiot using too long hardware in the wwbmg fugging up the gear meshing.
Keep in mind, this is the wear in 2 weeks of light use.
Some 6T nitride gear vs 8t brass gear
Let’s see what damage I could o with the 6T hahahaha. About 13-15g difference between 20mm and 17mm motor. This difference was not worth the heat from the 17mm
Forgot that I got the flying cam setup working before I broke my printer.
The footprint is alot bigger than I'd like, but its the only camera module I have good experience with so for now WIP.
(built in heat sink and all, so hopefully doesn't get cooked by heat bed https://www.amazon.com/Arducam-Autofocus-Lightburn-Security-Engraver/dp/B0DBTK235K
Arducam's new 16MP IMX298 USB 2.0 camera features a1/2.8" sensor with a max resolution of 4656x3496. It delivers clear images and accurate color reproduction, supporting AEB/AEC for optimal exposure. Equipped with an autofocus motor lens, the camera supports automatic and manual focus, boasting a...
she's looking beautiful
i want to do a similar build
also i believe you were interested in this skirts?
https://www.printables.com/model/1538496-v02-wide-boy-skirts
Again, thjank you and appreciate you! would love to see another one. build is very very slowly coming together. 😅
Wiring Saga continues: New years
Should've known doing too much at once = disaster. Low motivation since I encountered an almost impossible-to-solve klipper error w/ useless logs while doing a bunch of mods:
- Beacon Install
- Complete Wiring overhaul
- External Drivers
Ripping out a bunch of the new wiring, multimetere checks etc ... ended up being remnants of cartographer settings/macros during carto->beacon conversion. bummer
Also had a funny thing where crossbow blade detached and was stuck in cut position while the arm fully retracted- leading to me unable to load filament (behaved like a clog)
Also got my combo monolith-hartk umbilical thing working nicely (y endstop + chamber thermistor). Although its a little crooked... lol
Any smash players see R.O.B. resemblence? 
and I'm still terrible at SMD soldering. Prob shouldve tested them first as is. yolo
I love that. Do you have files?
Here ya go I just combined the monolith Y endstop and the chain mount @quasi bridge uploaded
#1228991033681903698 message
@rain swift What's up, is your build finished?
There hasn't been an update for a few days now 🤪.
Wiring sucks haha low motivation rn so no progress really. Honestly just waiting for smol chube and some SLM parts to get here
Why does this seem so familiar🤣?
I'll have to replace the gantry soon, though 😪.
The voron curse 🤣 @long gull
Printer down
PC also down for maintenance
Too many projects at once 🥲
Nice bimmers
It's looking pretty good already 🙂.
I still have some work to do, there's a problem with the Mono r0... so I have to install the r1 before getting the CNC parts 🥴.
Start a build log already hahaha
What are the differences? I haven’t followed the changes in revisions
And what filament are you using for this?
printed D5 pump bracket printed in PETG 2 years ago on my lil Prusa mk3s - 1st thing I ever designed after watching a bunch of CAD tutorials 
The R1 has a live idler, the R0 still has regular pins.
Building a build log isn't worth it anymore; my printeris too "old" and has had too many modifications. 😅
I only use PC PBT GF for all important parts now.
How much did you spend on this machine?
Finally got 8ft of IGUS chain flex CF9 to make my CAN+USB umbilical! Only took 2 months direct from IGUS 😭
7x20AWG wires - going to split the ground
Diameter is 7.5mm
Not sure if I’m going to wire this now or wait for smol chube so I can do full toolhead overhaul
External driver mockup - soldering the rest of the resistors went better than the first 👌
Blue PCCF was wet but should be functional for now
Cheapo 3010 fans for now hopefully not too loud since they are always on if wires directly to the drivers
Prob 2-3x the amount of the X1C it was suppose to replace 😭
Half of it was just me messing around and testing different configurations/mods haha.
Would still be an interesting journey to follow since it’s refined build! I hope to get to that point one day haha 
That’s… less than I expected! You were going for the fancy, high-end parts almost everywhere. Mine was only lightly modified (Rapido Hotend, EBB36 CAN bus, LDO super power motors) from the original BOM, and it still costed 1.75x of an X1C.
Haha that’s what I get for being stubborn and not doing research!
Didn’t have a clear direction in the beginning so I was just throwing stuff at it. But now also seeing other quality builds and what people can do definitely influenced me and gave me new ideas/goals to work towards.
But no regrets I learn by actually doing things myself and it was fun! Made new friends. Gained some new skills I can apply outside of 3d printing too!
100% worth! 
I can probably still recoup some money from selling parts I’m not using / or start another build I’ll never finish 🥲
1.75x for now - that’s a solid setup until you get hungry from the mod bug hahaha
I still have quite a few pictures, but summarizing 2.5 years in text again... phew, no thanks😅.
Did you have any trouble with the hole spacing on the 5160 + Octopus mount? I had to mod it to fix the spacing
I have a manta m8p v2, I remade the mount in fusion and posted a step file a few posts up - it’s only mocked up for now so haven’t tested it yet
When I printed it, I found the 5160 plus hole spacing was just slightly wrong. I fixed it and posted it up as a remix to that original file
Same, but I didn't change anything from the original, this worked for me and everything lined up well
Blue was original for me and yellow was my modified file
In any case, glad it lined up for ya
haha ty and nice, I prob shouldve gotten a cad of the driver instead of relying on the stl, thats way more legit
It's pretty cool BTT posts the cad of all their boards. Makes custom stuff way easier to make
Have you shared this mount, or would you be willing to? My current mount keeps loosening, and it’s driving me crazy
I uploaded it on printables I’d have to find the link after work!
SLM goodies from in3Dtec! This time in aluminum and not stainless steel 😬
A skeletonized WWBMG - inspired by the Burgos SLM bondtech extruder
Mgn12h belt clamp
SLM A4T crossbow adapter
+1mm Z motor tensioner
And my ebb36 mount but more optimized compared to the first time I made it!
Damn!!! Do they do a black coating like that?!?
Oh just bad lighting, I wish 😭
Need to do a little post processing on them
Oh no kidding! They look black to me, and SOOO good!
Great work on that! I’m curious to see how they perform, and the weight comparison.
I found it - thanks, again!
Just for fun: when I accidentally ordered SLM stainless steel instead of SLM Alu 😭
Insanely heavy
Note: my wwbmg and cutter adapter have custom holes for a pseudo titanium skeleton between the parts 🫡
47g for SLM alu WWBMG housing
iirc I think metal housing for fystec Sherpa was 35ish grams
That finish looks amazing?
How did you do it?
It’s still the raw finish! I plan to clean up the surfaces with a sanding block and then run everything thru the tumbler. I’ll take before and after close ups later
that will be awesome
If you got a chance to try it do you have any feedback?
I made a newer one for SLM printing which is way thinner which Ill have to upload when I get time
link for future reference if anyone else wants to take a look https://www.printables.com/model/1514138-tucked-wwbmg-4at-pug-mount
Was a little off with guestimate fystec sherpa housing was ~24g
Some RAW extruder closeups - lots of post processing to do.
Hopefully it even works haha
@terse nexus
I have it printed, but haven’t installed it yet. It’s going on my cursed printer, and I’m taking a break from it right now lol
Are you going to use the metal ECAS fitting?
EBB36 gen 2 - not sure if I should switch at all for a few reasons
-XT30 vs MX3 connector
-taller board - (will likely have to make my own right angle adapter )
-Both CAN/USB require this adapter board
I had one then it stopped working. It runs very hot but it’s normal it’s rated for like 150c or something. Not much difference really
Also cable that comes with is inverted compared to old Biqu cables to double check polarity if you plug old cable
Did you think it’s worth switching to? Thank you for the heads up not sure what I’m going to do with it since gen1 works fine as is
If you already have a U2C board installed, you do not need the second PCB.
Gen2 is 75° ratet
For fan config and connector sure but otherwise no not worth it.
Damn black raceways look so goood! Still a bunch of small details to address but happy with the outcome so far. Before picture for reference.
Definitely bit off a lot more than I could chew with an electronics bay overhaul. Slow progress and Zero motivation last few weeks but little by little finally got her in a functional state again!
Initial run and moving steppers meant my soldering of the sense resistors on the external drivers was great success
But the always on 24v cheapo 3010 fans was insane! Really didn’t want any more wiring projects but I had these 12v Sunon fans I had to make a splitter for into a single fan header on the manta. Waaaaay more quiet and turns on only when in use.!
Finally had time to get tach working for most of the different fans!
Started making a CAN+USB umbilical before a gen2 ebb36 landed in my hands. Is single USB with passthru for beacon the way?
Definitely don’t want to keep making harnesses from scratch - might terminate the xt30 to a microdot anchored on the toolhead before it goes through the pug
Trying out this angled XT30 before I make my own - it’s pretty stiff so not sure exactly how the routing will go. It’s short so it will terminate before it gets to the exhaust I think.
Current one was made by hand and way more flexible
Another decision roadblock 😭
Spend lots of money and time on sheetmetal gantry. Buys CNC gantry anyways. Stonks
Where’s my gawdamn chube mini Bruce
yeaaa haha 😆
i spend like 200€ on sheet metal (maybe even more) and a good 100€ on the printed gantry for the v2 only to replace both with cnc 😆
Where did you manage to buy it?
West3d!
Now what to do with the tumbler and giant drill press 🤣
oh the drill press is still usefull!
best tool i bought in a long while!
Nice placed pre order I guess they ship before end of April as UK site says 2nd half of it
could have ordered from #onetwo3d-🇬🇧-🇪🇺-🌐 ^^
It says it’s out of stock there
yea they havent opend orders yet
🤣
With parts you want to reduce weight, have you tried modelling these and using generative ai to design the strongest lightest parts?
Which parts?
With toolhead design it is difficult because you have to maintain a center of mass
Any parts that are moving, I’ve not had ago at it because autodesk is expensive and the generative Ai features are not free. You can model the parts or import a step file, then set the parameters e.g the dimensions it’s not allowed to change, you can also set features like centre of mass. It then removes or adds material where it’s needed.
It’s probably better to use SLM or sls as they don’t need supports so you won’t have to design a part to be 3d printed like fdm.
I have access to generative AI but I have never used it. I might try and get a younger guy at work to help me figure it out
Issue is that any moving part needs center of mass calculated for it and I don’t know if AI does that. Otherwise you would have a vzbot situation
A lil maintenance and tidying up before cnc mono party!
Then oh no what do we see? Belt damage ): No wonder my tension was getting wonky!
this scenario was always at the back of my mind but to actually predict and then see it happen is nutty. And Prematurely as well! these belts are relatively new. Bummer but now wet get an excuse for 9mm closed loop EPDM!!
Luckily a Boy Scout is always prepared!
SLM monolith universal belt clamp! Switching back to my old Vitalii CNC carriage (with a little drill press gore).
Look at that teeth engagement! Got lucky and found these belt clamp designed for cartographer carriage that ended up working without any changes - however there are some necessary tweaks that have to be done.
We just barely was able to clamp past the break in the belt fibers for now…
Oh damn, sucks that the belt got damaged. But thouse tight 90 degree bends on the carriage is something gates does not recommend ... for a reason like it seams
Haven’t ran one of these in a long while. And shes back one last time!
Thank you luke and audrina for letting me do a last minute order change before smol chube production starts since I can’t ever make up my mind 😬
Smol chube -> medium chube
Lmao nice
I have seen a lot of people cancel compact orders lately. 99% of gamblers quit before the big win
Oh nice joining the big leagues haha
Hi, first of all congratulations about your amazing build, I'm looking towards this same path good aesthetics 2WD so let's see how it performs
Ohh wait 4WD, it's that Monolith CNC right??
thats Monolith Sheetmetal
It's better than CNC?
sheetmetal is harder to assemble, depending on where you source the part either cheaper or more expensive then cnc
but until now it was the only available metal option
F.e in a local laser company ATSS it's 58€ without shipping included
Atss is a lot simpler than sheet metal monolith. It is nearly half the parts and you don’t have to do nearly as much work to get everything to fit compared to monolith
Yeah I saw that yesterday, ATSS isn't rocket science
In terms of performance is a big difference between ATSS and Monolith
atss has a lot longer belts then monolith so yea you wont be getting the same performance from atss then you would from monolith
but at this point i would not bougher with sheet metal and just buy a cnc kit
Yeah I saw there is a ATSS CNC kit
He ment monolith CNC
Yup it was definitely a learning experiment as I had no idea what I was doing when I started. Just randomly trying things and upgrading as my needs/wants change. Started with atss 2wd and progressed to mono sheetmetal. Then CNC mono whenever that gets sent out! Sheet metal is a big project (prob more expensive than CNC if I factor in time and money on tools etc). And I'm still not quite happy with my work (small imperfections here and there). CNC is the way to go less headache!
Thanks for your reply and I'll take for sure that into account for my build
as much as atss is nice i don't think it is worth it over printed monolith. If you have the money cnc monolith is the way to go
So even printed monolith is better than CNC ATSS?
Considerably
So that's a way to save money
When’s the endgame if I keep pushing the goalpost 😭 are you still going el fuego? I’m currently anti cpap. I startinf to research more optimized toolheads
Currently watching CNC trinity development hehe, are you still using the calamities?
Yeah jakob just ordered a silicone cpap hose to hopefully cut down on the noise. I hope it works because if it does I might consider trying cpap again
yea my trident is currntly in pieces .. doing some general TLC and adding all the right holes for cpap/elfuego.
like Hank said i ordered a silicon hose that should be pretty damn quiet
The calamities are all on my farm printers atm. The toolchanger toolhead was delayed from a chinese holiday so one more week for that.
and the ws9290 is going in my steel electronic box with some basotect for sound dampening inside
I am sending a cnc trinity to hydro to test when I send him the G2 repack
so ideally i would not even hear the cpap fan at sub 50% speed
and i also have some anit vibration standoffs in my aliexpress shopping cart that im gonna try and integrate into the dinrail mounting solution
1 Year later finally started assembling my NSB boxturtle (300mm frame width). Never thought I would see this day 🤣
-all parts should be printed - fingers crossed
-a bummer thought: it won’t match anymore if I go 4040/2040 doom soon but if I the matched that then I can fit a 5th spool in there!
Got a happy notification today! But also forgot to remind myself to get new closed loop belts... as well as the first piece the next project (:
True 300 cubed legggo
OCD me hated 280mm build volume. no real NEED for it but I can finally scratch that itch and then some !
For when I get chube + takeoff or trinity hehe
Think I found a nice sleek blue to add a lil personality to voronica!
Polymaker fiberon ASACF. Voxel midnight blue was too dark, Ambrosio blue PCCF was too vibrant
Forgot about this thing in the closet!
He’s alive and conscious!
Wired up 3.5 waveshare LCD as well as EBB36 gen2 THB in USB configuration.
Then I find out I have to disassemble part of the frame because I can’t cleanly peel the ACM panel 🥲
It’s beautiful! 🤩
Too bad closed loop 9mm EPDM is backordered. My current belts might disintegrate if I disassemble 🥲
Is there a tutorial? Is this the right printer? How do I install this?
Jk but also found out my fiancés sister also just got a free printer from her company 😭
Great news you got it. What are them purple cloth pieces are for haha.
I think just to lift the pieces out without scratching. It’s a nice detail wasn’t expecting it
Fair can't wait for mine. Also you putting it right at this time or you gonna wait?
Nah my current belts I barely was able to mount due to a tear. It’s holding tension and graphs are good for now but It might disintegrate if I disassemble.
So I’m waiting on new closed loop 9mm belts from @grand smelt since they were out of stock everywhere else. Thanks to some recommendations from monolith guys
How do you plant to mount closed loop belts on Vitalli3D carriage?
oh damn thouse belts are a minute away from snapping, especially the lower one
You cut it
The belt
The reason to get a closed loop belt is they are cut straight, so your belt does not walk as much.
Ah fair i thought u just mount it the way it is somehow without needing to cut which sounds awesome 😄
It wouldn't necessarily give any benefits to have a complete closed loop, and it would also require the belts being added during assembly of the Gantry which would be a pain
I switched to universal belt clamp and used an adapter
Yeah I had to pretension up to like 180hz just to clamp past that area temporarily. My fingers did hurt a little from pulling even with the tool hahahahahahha
Belts should go out tomorrow. Just got them packaged up quickly before I leave for my trip.
Thank you have a safe trip!
Hexagon bestagon! Love it when vision becomes real and doesn't clash! Original acm was brushed alu (wasn't aware I could get white). Wrapped white then layered with transparent hex pattern
@slender mural correct direction this time! your words no longer haunt me hehe
when are you going to get that left fan duct properly assembled on that anthead? 
Belts arrive?
Working on NSB BT SpoolersGrey trigger mount looks like boogers will eventually reprint
Working with CF filled ASA is not very fun, hands definitely starts itching after a bit - glove up!
In honor of voron's cascade release a few weeks ago....
Decided to pull the trigger on a desktop CNC, specifically the Makera Z1 Pro!
I've always wanted to learn how to machine - good thing my fiance's father is a retired machinist! (for medical parts tho)
No DIY CNC since I don't know wtf I am doing and I don't need another project lol
maybe I can machine some parts I had planned to get SLM printed hehe TBD
Thank you for fast service! And the only vendor in stock!@grand smelt
Closed loop belts came in! Can finally knock out the CNC conversion!
Some puzzle pieces came in for the next milestone. Finally ready to join the big boys!
Next: structural panels or no? Fiancé and guests likes to watch the printer go brrrrr
-Also not sure if I want to go top electronics since I’m already adding 50mm to Z
Decision fatigue is real!
Also… This will be a complete frame and I’ll have a spare 300mm v2 frame sitting around…. Is there a Toolchanger in my future????
Just realized one year ago today Voronica was serialized!
Very nice. From features it offers looks like good entry cnc machine for small projects.
NICE
I need to get a cnc to do awsome cnc slm stuff
Very excited to learn and ready to graduate beyond dremel and angle grinder “machining” 😬
CNC gantry swap was such a chill experience with the built in alignment features! No stress at all.
LDO 4040 Doom corners +50Z came to complete the 4040/2040 extrusions
Set. Not yet sure how I want to do the panels yet so currently going through builds
built in alignment features
yea right? lasercut gantry was a giant pain in that regard
YEA and no matter how much you try it was never quite perfect
Also started working on all metal wwbmg. It looks so tough!
Now I know what to expect to SLM processing. Bearing holes reamed due to shrinkage. Had to reduce some of the alignment features that relied on flexing of plastic.
Good news gears don’t bind and rotate/mesh freely, no shimming needed
About 10g+ (without sensors )
i wonder if the extruder gears will get hot enough to melt pla/petg/abs
they did on a all metal sherpa mini v2 😄
I don’t think I encountered that my sherpa, but I know it has that black filament path
insert thing. I wasn’t sure how to add that this test run
yay no boom success time to break in new closed loop belts!
Unfortunately 4040/2040 build will take a bit while I figure out how exactly I want everything 😭
Holy shit it actually prints
Might be last time assembled until 4040/2040 doomish conversion!
Man I Love mono panel but hate the friggin clips! 2x more clips does NOT equal 2x more easy and secure
Ended up drilling out the corner clips and bolting the panel down 🙃
Are these from 2020 frame no reinforcement?
Yessir w/ beacon. Although I had ghosting until dialed down to 18k MZV.
Can you post your graphs?
Please 🙏
graphs haven't changed much, I'm definitely toolhead limited as is. vibration is from this same run (4/5/26) .
I print outer/inner at 160/250 for quality
I took toolhead apart again so nothing super recent lol
is 16 scv ok to use for input graphs? wasnt aware but your y is very nice
I think 5scv for diagnostic purposes iirc. I havent looked too deeply into tuning yet until my chube comes in
I'll put it back together and do a run, I haven't broken in the new belts yet.
slight vfa, no ghosting. I think PA needs a lil bump
Is ghosting for speed issues and vfa is something else?
My basic understanding of ghosting is from the resonance you get from high accels and vfa from high belt tension/motor artifacts. So a combo of both effects can compound if untuned
I’m def the wrong person to ask lol
To be honest with my amateur eyes this looks good already lol
Thank you for sharing
Stelth endstop striker mockup. Adjustable SLM one on the way. Still refuse to use sensorless lol
Looks so clean 👌
Latest beacon graphs with closed loop 9mm epdm + CNC monolith AWD. Pushed a little harder with APH=125. Belts @ 200hz. 2504AH x 5160t @ 2.5A Pretty much the same wall I've been hitting with 2020 frame and printed toolhead.
Any idea with that X?
Protoype IN3Dtec SLM stuff came in!
Experimenting with custom rigid toolhead - (Not planning on releasing due to design around my own personal needs)
Thank you sensei @wicked storm for your guidance and helping this noob source gucci AirTac rails for upcoming 4040/2040 300mm+50mmZ build!
tempted to install the X rail tonight! - is mobil1 EP2 grease sufficient?
Nice!!! Ep2 is fine
Sorry if this is a stupid question, I'm new and full of stupid questions -- what's the toolhead with the screen on it called? Coolest thing I've ever seen
is it knomi?
Yup Knomi, I miss it but it had to go for performance and print quality reasons. Reminds me I might want to stick her in the skirts or something
I did see some other people put them in the toolchanger docks themselves which is a cool idea. I read most of your build guide, super well documented and really fun to read, thank you for sharing. Did you find most of your performance increase by lightening weight in the toolhead itself (like by removing Knomi), by making the frame/gantry more rigid, or by switching from 24-48V? I love the idea of Knomi being on the toolhead so much I'm trying to decide if it's aesthetically it's worth it to trade off the performance/print quality concerns and maybe I can make it up elsewhere or if it's simply just too heavy to be on the toolhead itself
Oh wow really appreciate that glad to hear it. I really had no idea what I was doing just experimenting as I go but it was a fun jorney. Still have no idea wtf I'm doing since I also prioritize esthetics lol but I've come to slightly better understand that simply: Rigidity > COM > Mass
But everyones setup is different, if you're not pushing speeds/accels maybe knomi wouldn't impact your print quality. I never bothered to try knomi again since I didn't want to introduce any possibility of a performance hit. You could probably still find a way to rigidly mount it in a better COM friendly spot and get away with it. Stealthburner was definitly a huge limiting factor though Moreso than knomi
you jinxed me! TOO SOOON my metal extruder clogged! My sherpa V3 had these PEEK inserts that isolated the filment from the body. Maybe I can try to retrofit these or do the peek filament path like what you and hank mentioned. And like what burgos extruder does.
:D yea that peek insert is what makes the v3 the much better extruder comparted to v2 lol
sad day flying gantry cam died in the line of fire.
Knew that heatsink wasn’t enough with it being only rated for 70C and living 99% of its life near a 110c hotbed
Safe to say I’m stubborn 