#Trident 350 AWD
1 messages · Page 2 of 1
because when i use only 3% it falls apart
u cant print at 16k accel with 0 % 😄
ok, how much fan i should use?
270
bed
chamber
?
i have no chamber
i dont understand 😄
20 degrees room temperature
u cant print ABS without a chamber
or ASA
doesnt matter
also dont print ABS/ASA without a filter, especially if u dont have panels attached.
u will inhale VOCs, not great.
u must have a chamber and chamber temp to get strong ABS/ASA parts
otherwise they will not be good
if u print PLA, u dont need panels.
but please dont print ABS/ASA without panels and a filter for your own health
this https://github.com/nevermore3d/Nevermore_Micro?tab=readme-ov-file#about-the-nevermore-micro explains a little and has link to articles explaining VOCs
i know
i know
but i am tired of installing and uninstalling the panels
why remove them?
and i guess a 15 minute print per month with open window is oke XD
mhm good question.... i guess the answer is this whole tread and my since 1 year journey to find out why my prints came out worse then on my old ender XD
i checked the gantry about 10 times, reinstalled the steppers about 50 times, tried 4 different types of pullys, 2 different X beams, 2 different bearings everywhere, 3 different vendors of linear rail XD
i set the pla up right now
well the siboor kit is.... not great.
especially for beginners
its not great in no way XD
i am so close to sell it and buy a bambulab... i have so much enough from wasting time and money for nothing.... couldn´t be that hard...
so while trying to print the cube it startet again with some crazy motorsync values over 90k and failed to sync the steppers, cause its nearly impossible to sync them manually its a try and error, which don´t work, now my pelts are again out of sync and i go to bed now... lets start 8 hours before if i can sync them again in some way
so i redo it, now i have "stable values" i also set up the PLA and try to test print, but extruder is slightly skipping at 200mm/s
Check run_current
Check gear tension
200 is slow. Extruder should not skip
Check extruder
I printed way faster and had no issues at all. Dont need AWD for the speed in my video
#landofschnitzel-🇩🇪 message
Also used vz extruder
whats your run_current
My whole config is on github, click on my profile 😉
.5, but im using a different motor.
Moons 8T
oke i can´t get past 12mm3 flow on pla exept with higher heat
oke printed silcpla (210-230degrees) with 250 degrees and feeled the stepper, but its the steppermotor itselfe which looses steps, seems to haven´t enough power when i help with my hand to put the gear a little it works so i guess its the steppermotor itselfe
So I'm having a similar issue
in fact @astral dock came to my assistance but i can't make it good, my Y shaper is so bad, i already printed the xy joints for 9mm, 2020 aluminum extrusion on the way, and carbonara on the way as well, going to print xol or a4t toolhead
Hello! would you mind sharing which shim did you used? thank you!
You can file down the XY joints to build more space for the teeth idlers
this happens to me as well
May its the siboor high quality stepper 🤣🙈 but i can check, i have a moons and omc stepper laying around too, so i can check....
@slate gale here are your prints 🫡
Accel 16500 with IS and PA at 0.055
@200mm/s
And
@57mm/s
And pa test, cause of bigger surface
@200mm/s
And
@57mm/s
Whats your oppinion on that @astral dock and @slate gale
klippy log please, but rollover first
I think it needs some slight tuning in PA. But it looks good.
rollover and then?
download the log and upload it here 😄
without any print?
here you go
looks good
for slicer tuning u can head over to #slicers_and_print_help
little bit lesser pa i guess i will try
Slicer tuning is not for this channel 🙂
i will mark this post as solved.
its VFAs. nothing we can do about it really. u have to play around with speeds
because thats where its slowing down probably.
after corner 🙂
yea it has to slown down and then speeds up again 😉
so more SCV but that will maximise it more i guess
i would ask on the siboor server because thats where u will find a lot of people with the exact hardware u have
maybe support can also help
so 🙂 @astral dock thanks for the video link.... thank you very very much, very interessting. would nice if you sent in the beginning, would let me get it faster :), this is awesome but for sure i have questions for understanding....
- where is your umbrelical video 😛 i wanna see that to
- so if i understand that right, these to pictures
the one with the two spikes, is more "wobbly" in general but isn´t that interessting because it gets shaped out, the one with the 3 spikes is worse cause ot 3 spikes... but
but the 3 spikes the energy of ei is peak at ~0.12 and on the 2 spikes one it is ~0.2 so that is worse i guess?
and i would really like to know where my second Y spike comes from... i am 100% sure its not the X rail, and not the 2020 profile.... and every adxl gives me the spike.. doesnt matter if i use the nozzle one, carto or the ebb36 one, i think i might buying one that i can mount directly to the rail without toolhead and measure right there.... slowly i get the feeling that its the Y rails
but i thought the 2020 profile would have more impact.... but good to know so my cnc rail can stay for the bling 😛
nother question is the vibration profile
in the vid you say avoid peaks... so i would use 62mm/s outer walls for overall good performance on organic and square parts, i still have ringing after the corners and when i am at 200mm/s the ringing is fourther away from each other but still there... but to the polar angly energy profile..... its in degrees... so doesnt that mean on 45/135/225 and 315 its the least motor noice... so wouldnt it be perfect for square printer parts to print in 45° angle to get out the smoothest? and at best at ~115mm/s (when it has sharp corners?)
the fibration was with gt2 and the cnc beam
interessting... this was with 2020 and gt3
Looking better in terms of "belts" but not in the "cross"
but the first graph was with 24V i heard that 48 is smoother anyways
so may i wanna swap back to the cnc beam wit the gt2 belts and test at 48V but before assembly the toolhead i trow the adxl directly to the mgn12h somehow and try to test directly at the carrier XD may @astral dock can help me answer my questions, and maybe i find something out about the resonance without toolhead 😛
but now i go to bed its 0:00 in germany so sleeping is a good idea 🙂 but i will watch the whole youtube from reth and look in a little bit more to finally test, assemble and finish the printer, ordered a adxl with a bigger pcb and mountingholes and 2 new y rails with z2 preload may it do the trick... if not i know the rails are good... and then i have so much parts laying around i can build 2 more printers when the trident is finally done XDDD learned a lot and while larning i hoard parts for the next projects 😛
But how can i reduce it?
Whats your opinion on the other stuff i wrode? I am interested 😊👍️
On the Y spike you mean?
Y graph*
If you are using steathburner and awd - stop
Switch to Xol, dragon burner, or other toolhead
Other option is to try 2hump
If you have tried ei already
Already on XOL 👍️
If printing abs you can print in the 100+ green range for ext perimeters
Mhm than i have ghosting but with more clearance between the pattern
print this at your standard profile with input shaper on.
If you have ghosting it will show
you only need about 5-10mm you can you a negative modifier to cut out the upper part of the model
But to my questions in short.
-
In general less power spectral density means less energy the spike has so "ridgider"?
-
On te fibration profile printing on 62mm/s and in 45 degrees would result in smoother finish than 62mm\s on 0 degrees? Or how i read rhe polar energy profile? With sharp corners as i understand printing at 45° would be better?
Tomorrow i will change back to cnc x beam since it was "better" try the gt2 belts and throw the adxl on the rail before printing 😉 or throw it on the 2020 and than install back the cnc to see if theres any difference to find out about the second Y spike.... i think i gonna register my trident when its finished and join the unicorn club 🤣😜 i wanna understand how it works and which values are what, cause if you know you know.... and fixing gets a lot easier 🤟 and than the ringing tower but o couldnt understand how it should ghosting with 18k, an XOL, 62mm external and when i am at a scv of 5 ( 3. Question would be... you said 1 scv for 1000 accel... so at 18000 accel shouldn i tipe in an scv of 18?
@astral dock
- less PSD does not mean a more rigid system. More likely it means that something is damping the system. Ideally you would have a single spike (impulse) going to infinity. For us somewhere in the e4 range is fine
- on a core xy printing on the 45 and 135 angles should result in a better print because only one motor is going. In actuality each of the angles 0, 45, 90, 135 have their own vibrations from the motors, and you can set the speed in the slicer to avoid all the bad speeds.
@astral dock tanks for the explaining, so i understand the polag angle energy profile right?
when i would print a cube with sharp corners it would be the best to print it like thakt
cause the violett parts are more "noice"
and why there are only the X or Y is mooving it is for sure smoother
jop, spikes on about 100 without toolhead.... so the second spike is for sure something from my toolhead itself 🙂 niche, slowly i am getting it
Yes that is the correct orientation, but not for the reasons you have
but for what reason?
Yes only a and b belt move
x stepper is front left and x1 back right
in practice they are a and b
remove the term x-stepper and y-stepper. Those are labels in klipper.
The motion of x is actually a motor and b motor
jep 🙂
so only a steppers move or b steppers
yes
and cause i have enormous 350mm i can print at angle 😛
so now i dive in to your belt tension video because it seems no one has a clue how much 9mm gt2 or gt3 belts should really tightend
he has 20scv too... so may speed that up a little i guess? you said for 1k accel 1 scv
gt3´s are heavy
atm i used mammoths page
mammoth-3D Documentation
it says 17lbf for gt3´s wich is 225 hz... and for gt2´s its 150 which feels more good + i have the problem when going that hight, i can´t manually sync the steppers anymore and the motorsync starts at 70k or something and takes ages to go under a 1000
the pictures are very pixled, what was the result at the end?
Leave that up to the person. Testing not done as there is no conclusion:)
ah oke... but i think i am going with the gt2´s and play a little... cause as mammoth´s site says... 225hz up... i think it will kill my idlers long term XD but i watch your youtubevideo and may i can somehow calculate it
I would say 15lbs is probably a good place to start
For the gt3's thats 225 hz, which makes it incredibly hard to sync the steppers manuallyy
Motor sync
There is a macro
I know there is a macro.. problem is that when the gt3 belts are at 225hz the pulleys are pressed so hard on the steppers that i can't sync them manually anymore and they start sometimes at about 70k amplitude... it takes very very long to come down do 1k and the belts aren't syned then anymore... wondering whats the trick here do do it better
Im sure on the Monolith Discord server u will get better help with awd and tension + sync
Here its rare. On monolith it is normal
@astral dock in this vid at 24:00 you said ls printguide makes a vid of vfa´s and you link it.. theres no link 😛 did u have it?
ah no i see ellis print guide you mean
hey @astral dock diggin really deep into the motion stuff right now.. and i am really happy about the graphs expet the polar angle enrgy profile... is there a way to improve?
0.1 vibration on Y at EI 🙂 nearly there 😛
There is no way to improve polar energy directly . It is basically the difference in your an and b belt path.
Not sure you can measure it accurately but 16 lbs is a good tension. 24 lbs will likely be to much
Is it lbs or newtons? Trying to learn proper terminology
But why it looks not like a quare cross? I hitting 100% before? What causes this not straight cross pattern?
Or this how you call it butterfly pattern
The motors cause the non-square cross is the motor paths around the angles of movement for a and b axis
I do call this a butterfly pattern
But then the belts are not synced right i guess
I do not know.
it can be like regular belts where the slightest different in belt length will show up, or it can be motor sync
Do you sync motors before each run?
Jop synced before
but they wheremt synced anymore.. i guess its getting hot now, now they are back on 100% again and the polar angle energy is 100%, but back to my SQV question in your video you mention that a good rool of thumb is 1 SCV for 1000 ACCEL, i set it to 20000 now, so SCV to 20?
latest stats
even Y sais 22k i would go with 20K
Generally yes
But u have to test if 20 is fine for yourself
Also note SCV impacts PA. So u have to tune PA with the SCV u print outer walls with
whats a common SCV value? or what changes? to look if its fine to me?
Orca default of the Voron profile is what i consider “default”
But u have AWD, which is made for speed, so this default doesnt apply to u.
Print something with 20 and see if u are happy
If not, reduce it 😉
WOW Amazing results for 350 afaik. Can you please share what belts do you use and what tension do you use?
i use about 180 hz and epdm gt2 belts
but i get ringing as hell XD
Printed at 45°
Couldn't be normal.... thats so bad, mechanically everything is good as the graphs show
How fast did u print that in mm/s and accel?
20K accel, first with 60mm/s and the pic is at 125mm/sec only difference is that the ripples are further away from each other when printing faster..
or slower even with 60mm its not that beautiful
Print it again with 200
Verify in the slicer gcode preview its hitting 200
how can i see if inputshaper is generally working? i printed the part without IS and it looks almost the same XD
now to te 200mm/s one but somehow i have the feeling that IS does nothing on my machine XD
same @slate gale only further apart XD
This is 60.(
Only thing that changes that they are further apart
Rerun input shaper, but make sure to put 20 in for scv. You will have to use the drop down menu
they where al printed with 5
and SCV 5
20 would be more ringing i guess but somehow no matter what i do i have ringing... i can´t find my fail.... makes me crazy...
about 180hz
What is that in lbs?
Try 12 lbs
but wouldn´t fa´s been everywhere?
Is everything double sheared?
its mostly after corners and the faster i print the further are they apart
awd throw my charts out the window.
they need more tension
I do not have a siboor kit to test tension on, but for other awd systems I have tested they need more tension
so you guess is that they are vfa´s from to less tension
to find the optimal tension what you need to do is tighten the belts another pound or two, then run belts, get them even in belts, then run input shaper
you are going to keep doing this until the acceleration no longer increases
my guess is it is in the range of 10-16 lbs.
however, you need to be careful as shit can break
hang on let me make you a video
why must it be belts... thats such pain to get them synced especially with that high tension XD
but than why its only after corners and further a part when printing faster and why my cube without IS looks nearly identical XD
i am back in 40 minutes have to pick somebody up
I forgot to add that I motor sync before re-running belts
The motor sync appears to help also move tension around
that is around 3.8 lb
I downgradet from gt3s to gt2 epdms because the lbs i would need aaare rediculous high
No thats 7.5lbs
you want to be around 240-260 hz
I try.... but thats a lot🤣
Like you said i am worriing about the bearings
But i will try when i am back home
Only thing that changes that they are further apart
so @astral dock in terms of your youtube video + exel sheet, 12lbf would be about 224,19HZ which is a multiplier of 2.0
Try it
which makes me wondering.... cause normal vorons are at 0.5 (6mm belts 2lb) and vz bot has 1.5 (6mm 6lb )
at first i am going up to 10 now
10lbf
This is where you are going to have to do some experiments
You are using the app correct?
to get the belts tentioned equal is no big deal but to manually sync the pully is a pain
Use the app.
if not done correctly the motorsync starts at 50k or something
Manually sync once, the. App
which app
Sorry macro
i know but manually syncinc on 224hz is pain cause the pulleys are pressed against the shaft XD so not really any free "spinning syncing with tension" here
Also with higher tensions, the manual method becomes less reliable as the pulley, even loose is being pulled onto the motor shaft
on 150 i put steppers in full step, loosen the front pulleys tighten them and ready to go.. but everything above gets difficult
I do it once say at 2.0 on pf meter, then only use the motor sync macro
Please excuse my fat finger typing
so now lets go up to 10lbf
at first 🙂
Best macro i ever made: 🤣
Moves the x exactly to 150mm and dissables steppers 🤣
Considering the latest graphs #1362813015786786996 message and the accel they show as well as no ringing, just VFAs and how long and far we came, i will say we draw a line here once the latest test u are doing is done 🙂
after all this is for basic help, as the channel states #1308016330326413393 . We cant do or help much with VFAs, its a finding the right speed range. no help needed honestly, it takes a few printes to dial in 🙂 this post has 1285 messages, so we definitely put in some work here 😉
and where is the resonance_advanced_help? XD i mean vfa is still a kind of resonance, but i am concerned that that works... the belts are stiff as dead
For now lets keep this open. @slate gale and I need to consult the admins to determine the limits of awd support
or make a section for it.. as its more common, or a knowledge base or something
This is all sidenotes to your issue, but voron does not design awd system.
it should be the responsability of the awd designer/seller to support the mods.
however, that does not appear to be happending, with the expection of monolith
Thus, @slate gale and I are attempting to fill the void
Thus, we have reached out to admin's to ask for direction on this matter.
I need to attend to personal matters. Will be back later in the day
with trouble comes wisdom.... if i would have known that its that hard to get it right, and siboor has nearly zero support while build kits that don´t really work i wouldn´t have bought it
nice that they trown out a 300 page build manual and all they say about dialing in is:: normal is 110HZ but since its double sheared 150 is oke... end XD
oh looking promisin
tension of about 10lbs
to @astral dock and @slate gale what has to be say is thank you very much for your support, i guess without you i have thrown that thing out of the window about 20000k accel and 200mm/s XD but i promise i will help when my printer works, i am one of the preorderers and since over a year i try to get it to work, i learned so much on that way and already slowly setting up a github, and when the build is finish i will make an guide to help others to take the shortcut and you not have to write in 10 treads about the same stuff... literally everybody with the siboor kit has the same issue.... Xbeam, Stealtburner and belts...
@slate gale 🥳 🥳 0.0 vibrations on ei 😛
the second Y is the missing arm for cables..
Yes, I would send another test
already done
are you printing abs or pla
125mm/s 20K
okay, can you post the pictures of the test once done
20k may be to fast for the cooling on stealthburner
is XOL
xol may not have the cooling to keep up with 20k
🙂
the little fans can only do so much
Crazy numbers.
How are you getting those numbers holy
seams i do something right? XD
what are life idlers?
running the siboor teeth idlers, bearings from siboor only the pulleys are from gates
So… your are getting better numbers than me, but far worse VFAs
jop
So much conversations about live idlers vs idlers with included bearings, but at the end everything seems fine
I’ll be testing live idlers xy joints later next week
what are live idlers
Idlers press fitted into a solid aluminum shaft (did I say it right @mild crow ?)
Yeah, but main idea to offload radial force to bigger bearigns
Bigger bearing is the deal here
I really really wonder how are you getting those numbers 🤔
I mean they’re among the best I’ve ever seen
If i read correctly, the user changed belts to GT2
But GT3 should be better as they’re more rigid I guess?
thank you very much does sound good after a jear of tweeking
Yes and no
@slate gale more I think about it - siboor set has toothed idlers not only on XY but on front mounts as well
Yes they are
No they need higher tension to be equally good as Gt2
problem with the gt3´s are that the tension they need do be propper tightend are that high that´s not good
People really dont believe how much tension u really have to apply
Especially it being 9mm GT3
@faint shuttle do you have any additional frame reinforcements?
Personally i like the monolith approach more in their AWD design.
But the problem would be at the CNC xy joints, everything else on the siboor kit is double sheared
mhm i was in the preorder so i have the backers 🙂
Nah, the joints are no issue
Can you share picture of front mount?
Yup
and i intalled some parts
I ran 230hz on my trident with alutrident 2WD https://github.com/3DPrintingMods/VoronTrident-AluminumG
using Vitalis double shear mounts
Now i applied 270hz on 2WD monolith printed also with vitalis shear mod. But i dont have time currently to work on it
150mm of course regarding the hertz
What did you wanted to see?
Im moving to monolith when he releases those sweet sweet CNC kits
Unless the xy joints from you solve my problems lol
I am surprised that numbers here are higher than most of builds I saw on Monolith discord
Yeah that’s insane
And for most of them they use less than 350mm and no one is using 2020 without reinforcements there
its not a 2020 XD
So what is your frame?
Which one? 🙂
OOOH so you are running a heavily modified siboor kit
my beta github XD
no.. different xbeam xol and gt2 epdm belts, gates pulleys and custom rails
and corner brackets
Still not sure what is your frame
But the same 2020 extrusions
may be for stiffness, since they are only couple bucks i trow them in
After reading list
sibor kit
Yeah, 2020 extrusions then
So 2020
You changed the linear rail as well didn’t you
4x from siboor kit?
And I think he bought another ones from Ali
mhm i bought the "hiwin" kit from siboor which abolutely where crap
Yeah same
and than i bought the youmethongs from ali, and a load of bearing balls and mix and match XD
so i esentially got "hiwins" fittet with youemthong bearings
May I see your front/back mounts?
what do you mean? stepper mounts?
@faint shuttle can you provide updated pictures for your printer please
Did you slow it down to 10k
Not jet
i know XD
So what I have found, is a few things, and I could be wrong
- your side fans will not work correctly as the toolhead is not setup to direct the air to the part
- pla without better cooling (I.e server fans or Cpap) can’t handle much over 10k on overhangs.
- speeds over around 150-200 mm/s don;t print well
- accels over 30k forget about it looking nice based upon toolhead cooling
but to print i would love to see something nice 🙂 without dead ringing
- never used that big side fan
- i have cpap already here
I disagree with the 4th point, in the Argentina channel they have 60k without cpap and doing nice
can you provide link
or VFA´s but i am sure its ringing causei ts only after corners
and than gets less
or my exturder
cause its not a wave, its a smal and bigger getting extrusion
Sorry, those previous numbers where wrong here are the correct ones:
not found
This is a vz bot not a voron
guys.. cpap is already laying around as 1000 other hardware stuff XD
but to install all this stuff i need to print stuff and since its ringing vfa´s of doom its hard to upgrade, i am happy that the xol came out in some way even if i am not happy Xd
And this is with CPAP……..
Oh sorry? I thought it was a legacy or trident
Of course cooling is good
Its pretty clear, isnt it😉
Yeah towards the end, but he was running it without cpap at lower velocities (broke cpap) and it was still fine at 60k
I actually thought it was the name of the printer
Like mine it’s Y2K38 lol
“Vzbot” thats not a printer name
Thats like Voron
Feeling kind of silly rn
I joined this world about a month ago so I’m pretty new
everyone starts somewhere
so guys after i tighten the pulleys to hard i wasn´t able to sync anymore so i put the front motors out and sandet them a little, and now i go to bed, but 225 hz i get very very nice charts, so i print than later 🙂 but tomorrow i guess i have no time and than i am on vacation till next week... but i will fight trough till there is no more is issues 🙂
hey @astral dock i am back to tuning, you said go up in tension it long it coes more accel.... what if i go down in accel but also lowers damping? still keep going?
@200 HZ, is there a way to just let it sweep at 75HZ to visualy find oout what that z peek is? i have 3 different Y rails here, maybe swa?
swap?
did you change your belts / xy joints?
are you using the stock ones?
and joints?
there was it 🙂
why shouln´t they
everything CNC machined
yeah i know, but they could die as well as the tubes are hollow
200hz isnßt that much
than i cnc machine some out off steel XD
oh they're not the stock siboor kit then
but for real, 200hz´s doesnt feel that much if you play with the belt
they are
but if they would fail i would machine new one
i see
do you have some charts with the old gt3 belts?
sure they are hollow, but i guess they will bent with 400hz or something when not more
not really XD
never get it to work perfectly, and i don´t wanna krank th gt3´s up to the needet frequency... thats a lot of torque XD
seems way to high, not even the guys on VZ, on mammoth 3d or Monolith use gt3´s
I would say do a test print. If you are happy stop
Oke thanks. @astral dock second question... that 75hz z peak, could it be the Y rails moving rattling? Or is it the umbrellical?
Toolhead=125
Where it wants to be=75
Explain please 🙈
XOL
Mhm no my testprint looks horrible 🤣🙈 only think thats left is steppers and tmc's
Could you solve those?
I am fighting the same kind of belt VFA as it looks to me, but can’t find a spot where they are induced.
No not really, new steppers are on its way to me, and a slab to put the printer on... but since so many have problems i belive its something printer related 🫣 but i am at it... steppers are the last thing that i. Don't change since i bought it
Also changed belts, rails and pulleys+idlers in my machine along with the x beam to a 2020, rebuilt the gantry a few times, even designed printed tubes to help align the Alu tubes on which the bearing stacks/idlers are sitting as I thought I just misaligned those somehow. But all not helping. I am already thinking about throwing out the cnc parts from Siboor for some others but have to start looking now on what to get, as I want to reuse the motors if possible and the belts + keep awd 😅
Mhm my guess is now steppers.... changed everything too, and have some new things i can try 😊👍 i keep you updated