Voron V2.4 300
Plastic TAP R8
Clicky Clack Door mod
ADXL345 mounted to stealhburner mount points
Rama's front idlers
24V all motors
Belt tension measured with Diyshift's Belt Tension Tool (purchased assemeble from West3d
#Little help with my graphs, take 2
1 messages · Page 1 of 1 (latest)
Thanks for the tips. Didn't have n52 magnets when i built the TAP. Have them now, just been too lazy / busy printing other things to replace them. Do you recommend magnets on both sides, or FHCS and magnet combo? Also, what exactly is the bowden mod going to help with. I'll take the advice and am printing now, just not seeing what it's going to do for me, as far as help with graphs...
I think you can fix it with N32, just by repositioning the tap magents loosen them up and redo them
I do not have a preference per se on using two or 4 magnets. It really depends on the build
updated graphs incoming
for ref, i replaced my TAP plate and added 4 n52 magnets. I also replaced the rear piece of my stealthburner printhead, as it was badly heat warped. Also installed galvanic's bowden mod
what is your suggestion re: TAP on my X axis? I did just go check my belts and there were CLOSE, but not quite right. Adjusted them and re-running the belt calibration now
new belt comparison..i think it got worse 🤦♂️
Can you take pictures of your left and right tap magnets please
that seems to have helped...should i run an input shaper now?
That was the only change from last graph to this one, so I'm guessing so
latest input shaper graphs