Hello, a new builder here. Purchased the formbot kit (Manta M8P v2.0 + CB1, EBB SB2209, SB0000, Tap V2, canBus) and having trouble compiling config files for the sb2209 and tap v2. I've successfully flashed the mainboard and the toolhead, bridged the board for can, but can't seem to find any resources to configure the cfg files. Is there a guide or do I have to look up the gpio pins myself? SB2209 is the RP2040 version.
#A bit lost on configurating Klipper files
livid pasture
rugged crypt
provided you flashed everything correctly
this is what my cfg looks like
you might need to remove a couple lines
and you will need to get the correct canbus uuid
i've not had a ton of time to make crazy modifications, so the cfg is pretty close to stock
livid pasture
thank you man! been searching for hours with nothing but frustration
rugged crypt
honestly, searching is the wrong play here
most of what you need is typically on esotericals site
i tried the whole googling affair, its just too obscure.
but yeah, i didn't get through without a little handholding though.
livid pasture
yeah, you would think that a supplier that sells the kit would atleast prepare some instructions
but even those were created by an end user
rugged crypt
still, make sure you do the uhh
stepper buzz though
unless you want to rip the printer apart with the steppers.
livid pasture
i will thanks
also, real quick while you're on here
is it normal for the gantry to become out of alignment with the frame even with just a little push by hand?
i haven't tightened the belts of course
rugged crypt
and requiring a QGL?
livid pasture
i assume it goes to normal once theyre tightened
rugged crypt
if the steppers arent turned on its pretty easy to nudge them
no, it will be like that forever.
but your frame could be not square, or your gantry could be racked
livid pasture
im talking about the xy axis
livid pasture
yeah, sorry, my english isnt that great
rugged crypt
s'fine.
yeah, pressing the gantry with your hand and about half a pound of force or so will cause the z motors to backdrive
thats why every print starts with a QGL
livid pasture
oh and what about the x axis?
i've racked it several times because i needed to move the hotend for building
rugged crypt
the X axis is always orthogonal to the y axis, they're part of the gantry.
If one is, they both are.
livid pasture
okay, thank you for the help man!
rugged crypt
last bit of advice is
dont directly take my cfg
copy part by part as you go through your setup
livid pasture
@rugged crypt I've noticed your pwm_cycle_time is 0.02227. that's too fast for a ssr to handle, don't you think it will reduce the lifetime of it? did you check if it heats up?
rugged crypt
<@97053039499673600> I've noticed your pwm_cycle_time is 0.02227. that's too fas...
ive not tested that directly, but it seems to not be an issue.
my power is still capped at 60%
its mostly to keep my overhead lights from going crazy.
if you're not in the US, you dont need that line
or if your lights are on a different circuit
that line is non-essential
(or if you simply wish to live with the flickering)
livid pasture
im in Europe, but live in a dorm room, so the flickering might still be an issue
rugged crypt
it will not because of your input voltage
you can likely remove it and also set your cap to .8
livid pasture
gotcha, thanks!