Blueboy is dead, Nozzleferatu Shall Rise in His place!

[frigid knoll]

May the Undead last forever!

This is a rebuild of my first Voron 2.4 kit from 2022. It was built from an LDO kit, with the afterburner toolhead. I had been having some problems with it, and couldn't get reliable results from it anymore, so I took it off the working printer shelf and shoved it under my shop desk. There it sat for the better part of the last 15 months.

When I stripped it down, I noticed that the frame had shifted almost 3mm on the top left, and the top front rail was twisted also. It was then I decided to just go with a full rebuild. The blue frame was beat up pretty badly, and I have a v2.4 black LDO frame kit sitting unused, so will be rebuilding with a black frame.

Goal with this build

• Make an ABS/ASA printing monster with all the bells and whistles.
• Build Chamber at 60ºc in ~25min.
• Ready to accept HEPA Filter in the form of a BOFA 3d Print Pro 3.
• Fully sealed chamber.

Current Plans:

• Fully insulated build chamber (Toasted Marshmallow Method)
• Stealthburner. Hotend undecided
• Utilizing the LDO Nitehawk-SB Toolhead board
• Intend to go umbilical and not drag chains, which will necessitate me figuring out how to handle XY homing. Unsure if I want to go the sensorless route
• Z homing via CNC Tap
• Make all necessary decisions to prepare for adding Box Turtle to this printer when rebuild complete.
• Mandala Magflat bed, Kinematic mounts (not the magnet mounts. I have this on another 2.4 and dislike it)

Current Progress:

Frame Rebuild complete.
Z-Axis installed
Deck panel insulated and installed

⚠️ Update 2/4/25 ⚠️

I ordered the CNC Tool-free XY-Axis Tensioner & CNC Tool-free Z-Axis Tensioner from Chaoticlab on 1/28 late in the evening, forgetting 1/29 was the start of the Chinese new year. So I don't expect to make anymore progress on the actual build until those are in towards the latter half of the month. This should however give me some time to figure out how I am going to handle XY homing.

⚠️ Update 2/5/25 ⚠️

Due to some questionable parcel bans from China to the USA, I ordered the Chaoticlab parts from west3d and will have to cancel my Chaoticlab direct order.

Updating with some pictures of the frame rebuild. Special thanks to @rich sparrow and @ashen pollen for the tips on washers in the blind joints!

[undone mist]

What do the washers do? Aldo, very jealous of your work bench!

[ashen pollen]

the blind joint is a lot stronger with a washer then without one

as an example i can twist a extrusion that is bolted to another extrusion via blind joint with the screw torqued at 2nm. with a washer i only barely get the extrusion to slightly twist

[ashen pollen]

Oh just an fyi with that amount of thread locker you will never ever be able to disassemble that frame ever again

also dont use thread locker with screw that come in contact with printed parts as the solvent will permanently damage abs/asa!

[frigid knoll]

Oops. Well… uh…. At least it’s flat and square? I’m pretty sure my inner monologue was screaming at me when I was doing that, but I was going to be dang sure the frame didn’t move.
Hopefully it turns out ok or that’s a 100$ mistake lol

[frigid knoll]

The work bench is actually an ikea kitchen island. Before that I had a self built plywood workbench, and I wanted something a bit nicer looking.

[ashen pollen]

looks just fine from the picture! did you measure the diagonals that they are the same length?

if yes then you have nothing to worry about

[frigid knoll]

Yup, 649 mm both directions top and bottom

[ashen pollen]

yea then you are all set

[dry pelican]

what is the thickness of the washers?

[ashen pollen]

looks like it might be 1 mm thick but any thickness works as long as the washer can spin freely

[dry pelican]

I’ll be assembling a frame for M6, I’m thinking about what washers to order. The V-slot groove is 4mm, I think, and the height of the M6 ​​screw head is 3.3mm. But the idea is great!

[frigid knoll]

Just flat metric washers

[frigid knoll]

So I guess the nominal size is 1mm

[crimson halo]

In the off chance you ever actually need to take the frame apart, just use a heatgun.

[frigid knoll]

That’s kinda what I was thinking! Hopefully I won’t need to 🙂

[crimson halo]

I didn't use loctite or washers on my frame, just a torque screwdriver, and I have no intention of taking it apart. I do wish I had used washers, however.

[frigid knoll]

One of these days I need to get a torque driver

[frigid knoll]

Current Progress:

Z-Axis installed
Deck panel insulated and installed

⚠️ Update 2/4/25 ⚠️

I ordered the CNC Tool-free XY-Axis Tensioner & CNC Tool-free Z-Axis Tensioner from Chaoticlab on 1/28 late in the evening, forgetting 1/29 was the start of the Chinese new year. So I don't expect to make anymore progress on the actual build until those are in towards the latter half of the month. This should however give me some time to figure out how I am going to handle XY homing.

[frigid knoll]

⚠️ Update 2/5/25 ⚠️

Due to some questionable parcel bans from China to the USA, I ordered the Chaoticlab parts from west3d and will have to cancel my Chaoticlab direct order.

[frigid knoll]

Update 2/18/25

Finally got my Chaoticlab stuff and was able to make some progress, only to realize I didn’t purchase enough length on belts!

[frigid knoll]

https://www.printables.com/model/452643-belt-clip-shim-for-the-chaoticlab-cnc-tool-free-xy coming in clutch with a modified belt clip for the XY-Axis tensioner from Chaoticlab.

[frigid knoll]

Made more progress today. I still hate crimping jst

[frigid knoll]

Don’t forgo the blade guard like me. The filametrix cutter is really bitey

[frigid knoll]

Since this is a Rev A v2.4 kit from LDO a lot of the wiring does not work for the new layouts. Decided to pause the build and order some 18g and 20G wire and redo all of the power cabling to route properly. This was giving me anxiety, lol.

[frigid knoll]

Removed the old heater from the magflat bed

Thanks to @inner kestrel for the tip to soak the entire bed in isopropyl alcohol

[frigid knoll]

Still lots of work to do. But the xyz axis and everything works. Esteps calibrated and did first layer