Printer(s) stop extruding mid print

[wide compass]

I have observed this on my 2.4 and my new V0 aswell now, that they just stop extruding after a while of printing.
It looks like a clogged nozzle but if you push the filament in again its fine, so i basically ruled this out.

I also observed this with many different extruders, Orbiter V2, G2SA, Miro, etc.

In most cases where this happens im printing either ABS or ASA at 245/95 with about 40-45C chamber.
Speeds range from 60-400mm/s and i always got failed prints.

The hotends im currently using are a Phaetus Rapido V2 UHF with .4mm CHT nozzle and the Sailfin hotend that came with the Fysetc V0 kit

[simple crystal]

It could be a number of different things. First things I would check are hotend fan, reverse Bowden and filament feed set-up. Post photos of the printer and filament feed route if you can.

Oh, and check slicer retraction distance too.

[wide compass]

The hotend fans are fine, they run and arent obstructed in any way, even removed the grill on my 2.4 because i thought it might be heat creep

Reverse bowden seems fine to me on both, on the V0 im feeding from a drybox 30cm below but it also failed with much shorter reverse bowden.

Idk entirely what you mean by feed setup but both printers have theirs spools on rollers and fairly new ptfe tubes.

Id have to check slicer retract, but i believe its somewhere around 0.5-1.5mm

I hope the picturs show the bowden path good enoug, the V0 goes the standard way out the bottom to a drybox below

On the V2.4 it goes up to the front and makes a 180 turn towards the spool tank, the radius on that bend is around 5cm

[simple crystal]

Those reverse Bowdens are definitely suspect. Many colored ones do poorly in warm chambers because they are FEP instead of real ptfe. The reverse Bowden must be 3mm ID and must be PTFE (milky white)

Please double check the retract distance too. With PA enabled it should be between 0.2 and 0.7mm.

[wide compass]

0.4mm on the V2 and 0.8mm on the V0
Ill see if i have any 3mm PTFE tubes lying around, but i think i dont

[wide compass]

Ok, got some good and some bad news:
I found some 3mm ID PTFE tube and the V0 liked that
The V2.4 on the other hand still refuses to work properly, even with the new bowden tube

[simple crystal]

Ok that's good news on the v0. I don't know much about that toolhead on the 2.4 so I'm not sure of the best way to help.

Take a Quick Look through this list to see if anything else stands out. #slicers_and_print_help message

Also make sure you don't have one of those bad versions of the rapido v2. I think it was some of the pt1000 versions that were bad.

[wide compass]

I currently have the Reaper toolhead with the Miro extruder on there, if thats of any help

Ill give the list a go tomorrow

[simple crystal]

I saw that but I've never used that setup so don't know where the common issues are.

[wide compass]

I dont know either ¯_(ツ)_/¯

Reaper itself worked pretty good for me, only new thing is the Miro extruder

Thanks for your help so far

[wide compass]

Went over the list today and im a bit confused, things got worse i guess?
1: Fan is fine

2: changed retractions to 30mm/s and lowered extruder accel to 2k

3: Toolhead PTFE looks to be fine (maybe its still a problem, have to get a new one tho)

4: Already installed a new one yesterday, worked on V0, so tube fine

5: Nozzle should be fine didnt replace it today, but tried a 0.6 a while back, same result of the print failing

6: No PLA and no Dragon HF

7: Even 400mm/s should be fine for a Rapido UHF with CHT, but also tried around 100mm/s with 0.4 and 0.6 nozzle (same results)

8: I have the motor current at 0.5, the motor is some LDO Nema 14 that i have from an Orbiter V2

9: There is tension? Is there a good way to check if you have enough, too much or too little tension on your extruder?

10: Bearings should all be fine, Internals are all new, maybe ill add a bit of grease.
Motor and crimps are fine

11: Temp and config is right, hotend shouldnt be a bad one like you suggestes, the temp readings are too consistent for that (imo)

When trying this stuff today the prints failed way earlier and got worse, so im a bit out of ideas right now, even replaced some toolhead parts, didnt change anything tho

[wide compass]

I think i found the reason why the prints failed.
I just cleaned the extruder and reassembled it with some grease on all the shafts and when i went to test it i noticed something.

I was able to overpower the extruder by hand to the point where it lost grip on the filament.
So i was able to hold the filament and the gears just startet slipping instead of biting into the filament.
I also managed to pull the filament out of the extruder (while not extruding) without the gears turning.

I tried increasing and decreasing tension but that didnt change anything.

Maybe its some fitment or clearance issue? Cant see where or why tho
Do you have any ideas why this might happen and how i could fix it? @simple crystal

[wide compass]

Bought some genuine Capricorn tubing, 3mm ID and 2mm ID for Hotend, Extruder and reverse bowden.
Also might put the WW back on there just to test if the WW had the same problem

[simple crystal]

Unfortunately I don't know anything about that extruder so I can't offer any advice on why it would be slipping. I can help with the WW extruder if you run into issues with that one.

[wide compass]

Same issue with the WW, doesnt really grip the filament and tends to slip

[upper lion]

for the reverse boden, are you using 2mm ID capricorn tubing? if so, that is likely causing really high filament path resistance

oh, sorry. you already changed that

[simple crystal]

Is it definitely the teeth slipping on the filament? Or is the motor turning? Or the gear spinning on the shaft due to an issue with the grub screw?

[wide compass]

Yes, its the teeth slipping on the filament, but only while extruding, when stationary it holds on to the filament just fine.
Tension should be fine aswell and the gear is properly fixed to the shaft.
Maybe something is misaligned, but i dont see what that would be

[wide compass]

Aligned the gear a bit better, seemed promising because the motor stalled before it lost grip on the filament.
Test print failed after two layers tho.
maybe ill just wait until i have the capricorn tubing and then test it again

[wide compass]

I also have two VZ hextrudort plus lying around that im gonna use for a D0, maybe i could try one of them?

[wide compass]

So uhm... the hextrudort worked... a little too well

[wide compass]

@simple crystal Tried around with some other stuff and this only seems to happen with the silver ABS i have, ASA is fine at the same temp, no slipping etc.
I dont have any other ABS i could try tho

Tried the ABS on my V0 and it was "fine" besides a lot of warping
Havent tried increasing nozzle temp yet, but getting it to print nicely on my V0 would also be ok

[wide compass]

Higher temp didnt help either

[slow mulch]

good god lol. Well, if the hextrudort did that I'd be inclined to think you have a clog, or a crushed heatbrake throat.

The little titanium tube on the Rapido V1 is kinda a weak point and if you overtighten the 3 screws that hold the heater on, or suffer a particularly nasty head crash you can crimp the opening down to the point it starts to catch the filament.

[wide compass]

Thought about that too, planed to disassemble the hotend tomorrow (its a v2, but could still be a possibility) and see how it looks, ive heard from other people that they used a torch to burn out their nozzle, dont know how good/bad that would be for a cht nozzle

Anyways i also ordered a new thermistor for the rapido and a second rapido v2 along with some cht nozzles, maybe that will help me troubleshoot a bit more

[slow mulch]

Oh i've saved a few CHT nozzles by burning them out with a pencil torch and sorta getting them cleaned up with a small sewing needle.

you don't really need to like get it cherry red hot or anything, just enough to burn out all the crap

CHT nozzles seem to very easily clog if you aren't meticulous about cleaning out the meltzone after printing anything with fiber/glass fill

[wide compass]

Ok, i think ill be fine then

[slow mulch]

so i clogged a few that way during nozzle swaps

[wide compass]

never printed anything filled on my 2.4 as far as i can remember

but yeah, might be a good idea regardless

And regarding the hextrudort, no other extruder i own managed that, so i think i should buy more?

[wide compass]

Seems like it was the nozzle after all, ill do some more test prints to know for sure, but it looks promising so far

[wide compass]

Nope, print failed pretty early on, same issue as before

[upper lion]

a couple of thoughts:

for the extruder, i think one of the ways you'll want to set the tension is to grip the filament with two fingers while the extruder is extruding and tighten just until you can't stop the filament from feeding. you don't want to try to whole hand grip the filament. I'd imagine it shouldn't need more grip. ensure you have the current set right for your respective extruder. orbiter recommends .85 A RMS and G2 .6, and not sure on miro but i imagine it would be similar to sherpa mini (ask the devs maybe)?

for the filament path, it sounds like you changed the reverse bowden tube to 3mm ID PTFE and the hotend-extruder section to 2mm ID. you'll also want to keep the reverse bowden path as short as you can, while maintaining a fairly smooth filament path (no sharp turns).

your extrusion temps seem low for ABS/ASA and the speeds you're referencing. I'd consider 250-255 to be the minimum, and needing to bump nozzle temp up the faster you plan to extrude (or linearly move). the filament isn't getting heated at an instant, so you have to get a bit hotter the less time you spend heating the plastic so the exit temperature is where you want it to be. otherwise, the back pressure may be too much for the extruder to be able to push the plastic fast enough

are the prints stopping at the exact same height? any consistency as to when/where things stop?

[wide compass]

Tried 250 and 260 but both prints failed in the same place at around 30%, other prints either immediatly failed or almost finished, like 60-80% before failing

Also redline recommends 245 +-10c for this ASA and 245 always worked fine for me, even at higher speeds

[wide compass]

Small update, got some parts today, 40min ASA test cube worked well with the new 0.5mm nozzle but ABS failed on the first layer

ill try again with higher temp and see where that gets me

[wide compass]

Also got some ABS from other brands now, currently printing with nobufil.
If this print goes well id say its the filament and not something else, i hope thats reasonable to assume