Hi all. New to Voron and have a question about realistic print speeds. I have tried some ABS but found I have to be super slow to get any decent interlayer adhesion. Also found that with PlA Silk the same. Like 40mm/S kind of speeds. With PLA I can run faster but print quality falls off fast (very bad overhangs for example). Everywhere I look people are showing off their 300-500mm printing. But I want good quality versus just raw speed. And for functional parts I need decent layer adhesion. I am using Orca Slicer. Have run flow tunes and input shaper tunes etc. What are realistic speeds for decent quality and strength? And what is a good resource for starting slicer profiles. It just seems like the default in Orca are not ideal.
#Realistic Print Speeds on Voron 2.4
fresh warren
covert inlet
140mm/s and about 3500 for acceleration for me. Need hotter temps for ABS - around 260 - and use the fan.
The 300-500 speeds are for highly tuned, and very tweaked gantries and drive systems. They will run lightweight toolheads, etc.
fresh warren
Thank you. Any references for slicer profiles you recommend?
toxic bear
The "stock" kinematics (24V, 0.9° Motors) and a stealthburner will hit their mechanical limits around 9-12k accels @ 400-500mm/s. Hotends vary somewhat on max volumetric flow but that can be anywhere from 12-40mm3/s unless you have something exotic. So you've got lots of headroom for raw speed. ABS can also be printed stupid fast.
If you're having really bad layer adhesion issues I'd ask what your chamber temperatures are. You ideally need to get into the 50C+ ballpark to have ABS print well.
The defaults in Orca are actually pretty reasonable so i'd imagine you have somethinge else odd going on.
fresh warren
I am around 45-50c in the chamber. But will be adding a filter under the bed to improve heat movement. No active heating present. It is a dragon hot end (std flow).
cobalt fog
What abs are you using? I have tried esun abs plus and the layer adhesion is just trash.
toxic bear
Hi yes I'm here to hate on ESun abs+
fresh warren
It is a Matter 3D filament I was using. I have some Overture I can try.
glacial pulsar
It is a Matter 3D filament I was using. I have some Overture I can try.
how are things going? whats the current state of your problem? any update for us
fresh warren
It is still not great with ABS. Both filament brands are similar. Mostly curling issues. I was using the std Orca Slicer settings. Found the smooth PEI was better but sticks almost too good. I was running 110C bed, 265C nozzle, 35% fan, 48-50c chamber. I was reading that maybe should drop to 150c nozzle and 15% fan but not tried that yet. Sounds logical. The topic of ABS seems all over the place. 80c to 110c bed, 240-280c nozzle. 30-70c chambers, and 0-50% fans. So not straight fwd what to target. Also people saying textured PEI bed is best. Others smooth PEI. Even others saying some adhesion enhancers are required. Normal PLA works perfectly with default Orca Slicer settings. But ABS is problematic.
glacial pulsar
It is still not great with ABS. Both filament brands are similar. Mostly curling...
did u already go through the entire ellis guide for tuning?
grand narwhalBOT
fresh warren
I have gone over the guide. As well as many other resources of similar content. I have not gone into the finer points or the advanced type tunes because I could not get past basic flow multiplier tests without warping and failed prints. But yes. I have read it all.
glacial pulsar
I have gone over the guide. As well as many other resources of similar content. ...
warping should not occur during ellis test
all parts are very small
fresh warren
I used the Orca YOLO parts for the test. They are small but corners still come up from bed enough to cause issues. They are better on the smooth PEI but still come up.
glacial pulsar
I used the Orca YOLO parts for the test. They are small but corners still come u...
have u cleaned the buildplate already with dish soap?
fresh warren
I was just doing 99% IPA but have twice now done dish soap and hot water washes. I think the fan speed might be issue because even Ellis suggests slower speeds for less chamber temps. He says in his PIF profile read me that 35% at 63C chambers for him but may need to be less at lower chamber temps. At present it takes forever to get to 50c. Adding a Nevermore or The Filter is in my plans but need to print in ABS. So chicken-egg. I will try the reduced cooling attempt for my 50c chamber and see. If that works my first real print will be the filter so I can hopefully get higher temps quicker.
glacial pulsar
I was just doing 99% IPA but have twice now done dish soap and hot water washes....
hm yea 50°C is on the low side but fine for such small prints.
can u upload your klippy log please so we can check a few things?
fresh warren
glacial pulsar
everything looks good
i dont think its anything V2 related, as in mechanical or config
so i would recommend closing this post here and move to #slicers_and_print_help
if u decide to do that, please tag this as "solved" so people dont waste their time here while u get help in the other channel