Hexdent

[proven schooner]

And my current room temp is only 21c. So that’s a pretty good chamber temp right there.

[jolly slate]

doesnt the formbot kit come with nevermore?

[proven schooner]

It does. I do not use filtration. And 5015 fans don’t move nearly as much air as 120mm fans.

And technically. It comes with fans and carbon for it. I just didn’t build the nevermore

[jolly slate]

i see, why do you not need filtration? very good room exhaust?

also whats your room temp

[proven schooner]

I choose not to.

[proven schooner]

Just said it above. 21c

[jolly slate]

oh my bad

https://tenor.com/view/drulz-reading-reading-is-hard-eyeglasses-bubblegum-gif-17207753

27C delta

[proven schooner]

Yep. And will be even move once I start moving air from the bed around.

Chamber is up to 50c now actually. Lol. It’s slowly warming up the air around it.

[jolly slate]

is there a mod that combines big ass fans with filtration?

[proven schooner]

Stealthmax

Not big fans. But big filter

I will be using 120mm fans as bed fans. They will mount under the bed in my trident.

[jolly slate]

that would improve max temp and heat up time?

[proven schooner]

It will allow the chamber to heat up much faster and hotter yes.

[jolly slate]

exciting stuff wondering how much improvement that would bring

[cedar python]

Gotcha. I have seen kits for it on Voxel PLA's website. Since I"m now running 10k I am hearing my table shift a bit so like you not wanting your shelves to vall apart I don't want my table to break. 😂

https://tenor.com/view/funny-surprised-excited-gif-22432786

[proven schooner]

Yea. It was the same price as the kits to get enough bearings for 5 printers. 😆. So figured I’d use up my tpu and abs/petg and print the parts myself.

[cedar python]

That makes sense 😂
I'm curious though, when I looked into it for the v2 I'd have to replace the feet to fit I think it's the Bambu ones, what did you have to do? Is there just a one that fits the default trident stuff?

[proven schooner]

I use the SwitchWire ones. It’s just a straight replacement of the sock Voron silicone feet.

AUX fan printed while I was out!

[cedar python]

Oh gotcha. Good to know. Not sure if I will order the kit or try myself. Don't have any TPU right now though.

[cedar python]

ooooo looks good. What material did you use? I dig the texture on them.

[proven schooner]

It’s ABS-GF. Easier to print in a slightly cooler chamber and I’m still waiting on Zyltech delivery. Lol.

[ruby dune]

120mm blowers? Do these do enough for PLA? I'm still struggling to get mine to make any kind of difference.

[proven schooner]

I’ll be installing 1 as I have an internal spool mount on the other side. Should help with PLA quite a lot.

[ruby dune]

Will see if I can pick up some pointers!

[proven schooner]

Aux fan installed! I have to uninstall it to put the deck panel back on. Lol. Just gonna hang the aux fan off the side when I need inside.

Also I think I can actually fit another one on the other side. I just don’t have another 120mm blower. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Just discovered these 500g spools fit the internal spool mount. Lol.

[cedar python]

Oooo nice. Are you also using the fuzzy skin thing or is that just the texture of the filament?

[proven schooner]

That’s just how filled filaments print.

[cedar python]

Dang, leaves a nice texture.

[cedar python]

Thought that was copper pipe/wire for a second XD

[proven schooner]

Well it is silk copper filament. Lol

[cedar python]

Planning on doing stuff with pla? Ir will it also help with high speed printing?

[cedar python]

So snazzy looking

[proven schooner]

Nah. Just wanted to have the option.

[cedar python]

Makes sense. Might as well have it and not use it and not have it and need it

Didn't realize you could get silk in anything other than PLA.

[proven schooner]

It’s silk pla copper color. Lol.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/ace-ventura-pet-detective-jim-carrey-comedy-duh-gif-11333313905875935459

😂

[solemn quarry]

Gf abs is amazing in terms of finish

[proven schooner]

Well. Don’t know what to say about the aux fan other than man it made my chamber heat up fast. Lmao. Can’t use it while printing ABS (yet) obviously but I used it to get the chamber to 45c. Took about 12 minutes. 🤣.

[solemn quarry]

That’s what I do for my 5m pro

Send a abs print to start. Pause at purge line. Turn on aux fan to 60% and bed at 105. Easy chamber temps.

[proven schooner]

Oh I just turned on the bed heater and set the Aux fan to 100%. Also had the bed heater set hotter than normal to accelerate the chamber heating. Thanks @west sorrel for that one. Lol.

[west sorrel]

1. Set chamber temp to 80° which sets bed fans to 100%
2. Set bed temp to 135°
3. Wait for chamber minimal temp of 65° (about 15 minutes).
4. Home, level, mesh.
5. Print 🙂

[proven schooner]

As soon as I actually have bed fans. I’m probably stealing your print start. 🤣

Actually. If I took the duct of the aux fan I could continue to have it blasting for the full print… just blowing straight up instead of at the print. Move the cold air from the bottom to the top to get hotter. Might try that after this print.

[west sorrel]

You could have a bit of fun with that even. intake air from the back of the print bed, duct it below the bed in a smaller cavity and then accelerate it up through the aux fans for your sheet cooling.

[proven schooner]

So add bed fans so I can keep the aux fan on while printing cooling the print. Got it. 😆

[proven schooner]

I changed literally nothing. My chambers at 55c today. It’s only like. 1c warmer room temp in here. wtf. 🤣

[ruby dune]

I had the aux fan on for ABS just once. The only time I did 35mm³. Since your micron goes waay higher than that, defs use the aux for ABS 😂
The top of my chamber gets to 65 degrees (75 if I turn off the exhaust), and the bottom stays at 55-58 degrees. 120mm bed fans, no special ducting needed. I do have insulation, though.

[proven schooner]

Oh the micron uses dual 4010 12k rpm blowers. It handles 60³ like a champ. It’s the trident that I can’t use the aux fan for for now. Need 120mmm bed fans first. I wanna see how hot I can get the stock chamber with 0 insulation.

[ruby dune]

Yeah, I meant aux fans on the trident. Brought the micron up 'cause I assume you're going to go close to that fast on this one too. 120mm fans make a huge difference, I hit 60 in about 15-20 mins without insulation or exhaust. Mine's 250mm though.

[proven schooner]

Oh I plan on going twice as fast eventually. Lmao. Nema 14 motors are my main limitation with the micron.

[west heron]

Nema 17s? 🤨

[proven schooner]

In the trident yes. Lol. I’m not putting those massive motors in the tiny micron.

[ruby dune]

Interested to see if I can steal whatever you're going to do with the structural panels - my frame gets scary at just 30k.

[west heron]

Thank god I almost had a heart attack

[proven schooner]

Hehe. Chamber thermistor here is now reporting 62c chamber!

Or it did very briefly. 🤣

Back down to 58c

[proven schooner]

Structural panels are an eventually kind of thing. For now I want new gantry and to get an Ercf installed. Lol.

Dense large area infill is so much fun to watch!

It got better

[proven schooner]

Pics of the TriBlack

[floral shard]

Why Y endstop on top of the motor instead of default location behind the right Y rail?

[proven schooner]

Y endstop relocation mod has it there. 🤷

[floral shard]

Not needed for trident

Its a stock part

https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Trident/blob/main/STLs/Gantry/AB_Drive_Units/[a]_y_endstop_housing.stl

Check the CAD and look where i mentioned the location above

[proven schooner]

I couldn’t find it at the time. So y endstop relocation mod worked for me.

[floral shard]

Both works. But stock part looks cleaner because no extra part on XY joint + endstop not visible

Thats also a reason Trident is superior compared to V2 - has stock Y endstop location instead of XY PCB

[proven schooner]

Yea. I just didn’t see that before. 😅. May switch to it eventually.

[floral shard]

Most dont know because if u dont know where to look in the CAD u wont see it really. And STL folder most oversee it

[smoky basalt]

Sensorless is superior anyways. lol.

[proven schooner]

Not when you home at 200mm/s+. Plastic on plastic with Sensorless is just asking for something to break.

[smoky basalt]

That is true. Faster homing is nice.

[proven schooner]

Especially when your bed is 350mm in each direction. Lol. This printer will eventually be printing at 1.2m/s hopefully so endstops are kinda required.

[novel lava]

Are there any special considerations for this or should I just set it to 200 and watch it zoom :hehe:

[proven schooner]

Make sure your printer triggers the endstop in time. Some control boards have a slight delay on endstop trigger to toolhead stop so you could just crash.

Here’s 500mm/s for your consideration. (Please don’t do this. Things can go wrong fast)

Also. The faster you home the less accurate the home will be.

[novel lava]

Do still use a secondary homing speed? how reckless should I make my printer? 😆

[proven schooner]

I don’t in the micron+ anymore. Not even a secondary home in that thing. But homing, qgl, bed scan, and the survey touch take like no time at all so I wanted it to home and do everything as fast as possible.

[novel lava]

I guess my 15-20 minute heatsoak outweighs the time gained from homing faster

[proven schooner]

That’s where all my extra fans and the increased bed temp are gonna rock in the trident. Should be able to heat up the chamber even faster than a PFA. Lol.

[novel lava]

Oh true, I have been procrastinating bed fans for a long time

[cedar python]

What's it for?

[cedar python]

Is this the one you used for hula?
https://github.com/thrutheframe/HULA_Voron?tab=readme-ov-file

[proven schooner]

Printing something I made for an aquarium.

[cedar python]

Ohhh, nice nice

[proven schooner]

Yep. I used the SwitchWire baseplate which is just a direct replacement for the standard rubber foot we use in Vorons.

[jolly slate]

does the hula remove the need for concrete slab + foam?

[proven schooner]

No idea. But that isn’t a requirement either. Lol. I use HULA feet because I have multiple printers on cheap shelving. Helps prevent the shelf from toppling.

[jolly slate]

yeah that makes alot of sense

[west heron]

watch 247printing video on them

[jolly slate]

will do

[jolly slate]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9f4hKw_8lts&t=54s

this one?

[west heron]

yep

it has everything you need to know basically

[jolly slate]

thank you

[cedar python]

Okay, good to know

Think I might end up ordering them from Voxel since I don't have any TPU

[proven schooner]

I have received filament order! Now I just need bed fans so I can get my chamber even hotter so I can actually print this stuff.

Next is to redo my electronics. One part of that is making a breakout pcb for the wires coming from the gantry area on the left and right. Just to make making extension wires easier. I’m also gonna be planning out the electronics setup for when I have 6 external stepper drivers for the Hex drive.

[smoky basalt]

How hot can that abs really need?

damn that stuff is so cheap might need to think about that for my box turtle build

[proven schooner]

Needs 65c min chamber to not warp. And print it hot. 270-280c.

Had to glue my X1C plate to print it. 🤣

The entire TriBlack minus a few newer parts and the motor mounts is made of Zyltech ABS.

[smoky basalt]

oh interesting. ive been curious about there matte asa too

My P1S is currently wrapped in a blanket to try to print a full build plate of asa parts for my 2.4 rebuild

[proven schooner]

Careful doing that. @west heron Knows someone who annealed the carbon rods from getting the chamber too hot.

[smoky basalt]

Interesting. First time doing it. Just need this parts done and my other 2.4 is occupied

Pretty full build plate

[proven schooner]

I’d done fuller plates. Lol. Send it.

[smoky basalt]

Should be fine. lol what’s the worse that happens

[proven schooner]

The whole print fails. 😆

[smoky basalt]

We don’t talk like that around here.

[shut sundial]

I too know someone who did that, not a fun situation lol

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/stephen-colbert-spit-take-gif-12544694

Excuse me what?

How is that even possible

[proven schooner]

May have been you that told me about it then… I know it was one of you. 🤣

[shut sundial]

The annealing process for carbon begins at 60c, and although it’s very slow at that process, an 8 hour print can have an effect

[shut sundial]

You’re the third person to bring it up today lol, I keep conveniently lurking in time to say “hey that’s me”

[proven schooner]

It’s one of those for you today huh. And it’s only 30 minutes into the day. 😆

[shut sundial]

Oh, it’s tomorrow… lol

[proven schooner]

I did say I should go to work earlier. 🤣

[shut sundial]

Don’t tell me you’re making donuts already?!

[proven schooner]

About to go start. As soon as I feel like walking in a freezer.

[shut sundial]

You might stall a little longer, I need to stay up to study lol

[proven schooner]

Ya no. I haven already stalled for 30 minutes. Made an energy drink and a hot chocolate. It’s f-ing cold rn.

Well. I’m f-ing cold. 🤣

[shut sundial]

It’s cold and wet here, I’ve had wet socks for about 12 hours now lol

[proven schooner]

Did you know. Your warmer without socks than with wet socks?

[shut sundial]

I did, I’ve been freezing all day

[proven schooner]

Lmao. Good job!

[proven schooner]

My entire power plans just changed in the blink of an eye… explain later. 🤣

[shut sundial]

You’ve got me interested now, do tell!

[proven schooner]

DIN rail blocks only. HDR psus, 1 24v for the Z steppers and hotend, 3 48v for 2 drivers each, breakers for the dc power side and heat bed side, contractors to trigger turning on the main 24v before the 48v. Basically just DIN rail the heck out of it.

Updated list atm to remember what I want.

$66 to redo the current 24v plus SSR for the bed for now. Might do that instead on my next pay day. I have no idea. 🤣

This does mean no more EMS. But I’m cool with that.

The plan is coming together in my head.

And my Amazon cart. Lol.

@blissful narwhal How dare you make me change my entire plans for the power in my Trident. 🤣

[blissful narwhal]

Don't blame me. I just gave you the answer you wanted to hear.

[proven schooner]

And that answer gave me a solution to another problem so now I’m changing my entire plans 🤣

[cedar python]

That is quite low. Good to know XD

[smoky basalt]

Welp woke up to failure to retract and it seems filament is stuck in the tool head. Have to figure that out tonight

[west heron]

Um not sure that’s me probably was evade

[proven schooner]

Cool. So I definitely swapped you 2 somehow. 🤣

[west heron]

Yep how dare you

I’m nothing like evade 😒

[proven schooner]

I never said I could remember anything! 🤣

[cedar python]

@proven schooner What shore hardnes TPU did you use? Keep trying to find the spec but seem I have to make an account to get a file that would likely have it.

[proven schooner]

95a I think

Correction. 96a. Lol.

It was a $10 spool I bought from gizmodorks on Amazon over 2 years ago. I still haven’t used all of it. 🤣

[cedar python]

OKay gotchas. Just trying to price it out and all that.

LOL TPU really does seem like a material that you have for a long time 😂

[proven schooner]

I just never use it. Lol.

[shut sundial]

Should I be offended? lol

[cedar python]

Hear me out, speed benchy on the micron in TPU

[proven schooner]

I highly doubt WWBMG can do TPU. Lol.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/you-can-gif-27326947

Only one way to find out

But you could always do it on the Trident. TriBlack vs Micron.

https://tenor.com/view/sunday-monster-truck-gif-22945518

[proven schooner]

Once TriBlack becomes HexBlack it will outrun just about most Vorons out there.

[cedar python]

That's cooool. Large speed print! lol

[west heron]

lol no

[proven schooner]

I finally have all my printers in one room in one spot! Hooray! And clearly 2 different setups. One table is all rgb fun and the other is all serious printers. Granted the second table is 2 printers but whatever. 🤣

And in fact. I have 3 tables! 🤣

4 if you could the table still holding the stuff I need to organize. 😆

[west heron]

Bruh

Are you using a manta to charge your Apple Watch?

[proven schooner]

Why yes. Yes I am. 🤣

Thanks for reminding me to turn The Rig back on.

And don’t worry. I used the manta in my trident to charge my AirPods the other day too. 😆

[west heron]

I’ve never would of thought of doing that lol

[cedar python]

What solering iron is that/

[proven schooner]

There’s 2 there.

[cedar python]

Left side

[proven schooner]

That’s my uber tiny soldering iron for smd work. It’s a C210 iron that I got off amazon for cheap and that thing is amazing. Heats stupid fast.

[cedar python]

Dang that's quick. Noticed the handpiece looked like a JBC but the brick had be confused XD.

[cedar python]

Ugh, seeing the AMS makes me regret not grabbing the ERCF.

[proven schooner]

Hehe. I’ve got a 12 color ercf on the way for TriBlack

[cedar python]

All the colors all the time!

[proven schooner]

And quick change to a different filament type. Lol.

[cedar python]

The real reason for having it XD. 12 spool infinite spool mode

[proven schooner]

Haha! LEDs in the fans! Lol. Went to go check the wiring for these and look at what I discovered as well.

The pins are labeled!

[cedar python]

Silk screening that actually means something!? NICE!

[proven schooner]

I’m surprised there’s a dout there as well. Lol.

[cedar python]

lol. What are you going to be using the fans for btw?

[proven schooner]

Bed fans. Benefits of a trident. 120mm bed fans.

LEDs work! Now to make extensions so the LEDs and fans can connect properly. Lol.

[cedar python]

Oh nice nice. Used the the bed fans for the v2. XD

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/okay-ok-alright-cool-awesome-gif-18159255497747374770

[cedar python]

So random totally not serious question, happen to know of some RGB blower fans?

[proven schooner]

I do not. But that’s what led strips are for. 🤣

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/true-gif-21006811

[cedar python]

A question, since you're the RGB on everything, I should use a separate board if I opt to add more right? Like another micro or even a full on WLED setup

[proven schooner]

Any more than about 120 LEDs I’d switch to a separate 5v psu and a esp32 running wled instead.

[cedar python]

Okay sounds good. Not sure I'll go that nuts, but I think I'd like to switch the chamber lights out with some WRGB (or daylights) at some point, and add some other little accent stuff. Future things of course for when I get things more sorted with the printer but would be nice

[proven schooner]

Oh. And if you have an hdmi screen id limit your LEDs to 50 or less. And if you want more you’ll need a 5v psu for the LEDs.

[cedar python]

I have the BTT one. Uses a ribbon cable

[proven schooner]

Still uses 5v rail. Lol. Limit your led count or brightness or get a 5v psu.

[proven schooner]

It has taken nearly an hour but with just the bed heater at 110c, 2 bed fans running 100%, my aux fan minus the top duct on it at 100% to move the air from the bottom to the top of the printer, and 0 insulation with the stock doors. We have gotten to 55c chamber. Not bad considering it’s just the bed heater running. No hotend or motor heat.

Just cranked the bed to [redacted] to see how much hotter I can get the chamber.

Oh wait. That temp isn’t redacted after all. It’s at 135c.

Okay. Gave up and threw a blanket over the printer. Turned the bed down to 110c as well. Chamber is now at 60c

Technically. Chamber thermistor is at 58c and the hotend is at 61c now.

[cedar python]

That's not bad IMO. It takes me that long to get to 50 on a smaller printer. (I set bed to 115) I'd imagine your's is probably more accurate since my thermistor is on top of the toolhead.

Seems like the blanket mod is a heck of a good mod 😂

[abstract crown]

Are this slim fans or regular 25mm ones ?

[proven schooner]

Regular ones

[abstract crown]

Nice 👍 I have plenty of those where is that mod ?

[proven schooner]

https://www.printables.com/model/361366-trident-120mm-bed-fan-mount

[shut sundial]

I knew you couldn’t stay off of the LEDs forever

[proven schooner]

Lol. They are just coincidental that I have rgb fans. Lol.

[proven schooner]

OH! @shut sundial I do have a 5 color print I have planned for the ercf once it’s built. A certain @tulip schooner made a tulip mod version of the umbilical pcb cover and made it with 5 colors right after I said I can print with 4. 🤣

[tulip schooner]

I dont know what you mean

[proven schooner]

Pick 5 gates to use for when I actually can print it. Lol. I’ll load the 5 colors in those gates and see if I get it working properly. (This is like a solid month out. 🤣). 12 color ercf v2.

[tulip schooner]

Cant wait to see it😁
SMRRF was epic btw

[shut sundial]

Careful, they’ll make a 13 color part lol

[tulip schooner]

Now thats a great idea

[shut sundial]

I’m not saying it would be funny and you should totally do it, but…

[tulip schooner]

Got to keep @proven schooner on his toes

Wouldnt want him slipping now🫠

@proven schooner you need one of these

[proven schooner]

Can’t. That only has 4 of the big drivers. Will need 6 in the eventual build.

[shut sundial]

Octo pro is calling out to you

[tulip schooner]

I got an octopus too😍
But managed to blag a free kraken

[proven schooner]

The m8p v2 will be working great for this build.

[proven schooner]

So uh. AWD v0 when?

[tulip schooner]

1 month....
After my divorce when wife finds out about the next printer build

[shut sundial]

I always forget about the M8P, it’s a great board too

I’m just biased because I keep putting the Octopus in everything lol

[tulip schooner]

It is a good board

Got one on my ender 5 plus

[proven schooner]

And I’m over here with mantas in everything. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Doing the first print with Zyltech ABS on TriBlack. Set bed temp to 135 for the first layer with bed fans on max. By the time the bed got to temp chamber was already at 45c. Hoping for the best here.

First layer is 135c and the rest are 110c.

[west heron]

good luck it's hard to print <75c

can't imagine at 45c LOL

[proven schooner]

I’ve found it needing at least 65c. But with the stupid hot bed and the bed fans I’m hoping the heat closest to the bed will be sufficient.

Second layer chamber is at 55c

58c on layer 14. Definitely want some insulation at some point and the bed fans replaced with ones that move more air hopefully. These Corsair ones don’t move much even at max power. Which is funny. Since they are meant for keeping a pc cpu cool…

[west heron]

I got some sunnon fans from my schools electonics bin (lucky they were changing all the PCs in the school) they move ALOT of air but loud AF

[proven schooner]

120mm?

[west heron]

yep 12v pc fans

I got a bunch of shit. SSDs, PSUs, camera modules, fans...

that's were I got all my aluminium plates aswell for futur use

[proven schooner]

I went to search Amazon for fun and uh. I think that one (definitely not the right one) is gonna be a little overkill. 🤣. I kinda wanna buy it for fun. Not for this printer ofc.

[west heron]

turns out they like trowing away alot of shit

[proven schooner]

Just 117cfm. 😆

[west heron]

nothing crazy

[proven schooner]

That’d actually be a pretty good fan to build a bladeless fan with actually.

[west heron]

got good pressure?

[proven schooner]

No idea. Lol.

Halfway done with the Dino clip and no warp yet!

I’m ignoring the first couple layers quality. My Z offset is a little too close still. I should probably tune that finally.

Lower chamber temp still rising!

53c at the bottom and 60c at the top

Like I said. Ignore the first couple layers there. Looking good so far!

[west heron]

put that in C

[proven schooner]

That thing doesn’t have the option unfortunately. Lol.

[west heron]

oh every one I got has a tiny red button that you have to push in with a pin or something small

[proven schooner]

I’ll check again in a bit but I bought a pack of 6 years ago and I don’t recall seeing that on any of them.

[proven schooner]

Nope. Just checked.

You can tell how hot the printer is getting and how thermal expansion is affecting things. The door gap is gone. Lmao.

And one nearly perfect Dino clip made from Zyltech ABS!

Word to the wise. A heat soaked trident frame is hot af.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/noted-meme-but-looney-tunes-gif-22310685

[proven schooner]

Okay. Was gonna start another print but decided to attempt to fix my bed mesh issue. Then I messed it up entirely instead. 🤣. X1C is printing the 110mm Y alignment jig for if you already have the y rails installed as I only have the ones for without them so I guess I’ll fix the gantry tomorrow now.

[cedar python]

Having to redo that myself too XD. Though I was too far rather than too close this time. XD

[cedar python]

What happened to it? I might have overlooked it in the thread.

[proven schooner]

Oh it’s just always been low on the back right corner. Easy fix except that when I tried to fix it I made it worse. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Oh I just kinda did the paper trick to calibrate the probe offset and then never checked it. 🤣

[cedar python]

Oh no! That's no good. Think I saw something about the gauntry. Is that what you are going to have to mess with?

[proven schooner]

Yep. It’s an easy fix. It’s pinned in the trident channel. Could’ve been because I was trying to do with a very hot trident. Lol.

[cedar python]

😂 Hey at least you didn't glue anything to the plate. Before I had stuff that really really didn't want to come off.

[proven schooner]

Will redo it cold.

[cedar python]

Ah so that's where the comment on the very spicy frame came from lol.

[proven schooner]

Yea. Chamber was at 63c at the end of the print. So it was still quite hot.

[cedar python]

Jesus! What are you trying to do fry your hand off 😂

[cedar python]

Side note what type of blanket are you using for 63? Getting colder here and taking a long time to even get to 50. Though I also don't have bed fans yet

[proven schooner]

None. That’s with the bed fans and hotend on.

[cedar python]

Dang, that's really good!

[west heron]

if you think that's hot you should see what HT guys are doing lol

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/the-groomsmen-the-groomsmen-first-look-tyler-hynes-hynies-definitely-interested-gif-3156860422627290365

[proven schooner]

@mystic sonnet You ain’t here yet. So welcome to the TriBlack. The stupidest trident you’ll ever see.

[proven schooner]

Hey @viral briar . Based off your pin here: #voron_trident_questions message If lowering the the front left extrusion to bring down the tall point on the back left of the mesh works will raising the front right extrusion to bring up the back right low point as well?

Mesh looks like this with a range of 0.229. I just know I can get it a little better before gantry backers.

Ignore the overtemp warnings. The drivers have no idea what they’re talking about. 🤣

[shut sundial]

“Please father we need cooling, it’s so hot in here”

[proven schooner]

The e-bay fans may or may not be configured to only be on if the bed heater is on…

Nevermind @viral briar I just decided to try it. Lol. It worked!

Much better!

Range of 0.134mm now!

@cedar python Bed mesh fixed! Went from 0.3 something mm to 1.1mm with my failed attempt at fixing it and finally all the way to that ^^ after successfully fixing it!

Look at that! Not one number is above 0.1!

And you can see why I need gantry backers at some point. Lol.

[latent condor]

What did you do to fix it?

[proven schooner]

Adjusted it the way in Thors pinned post in trident channel. Adjusted the height of the y rail extrusions.

[crisp adder]

Now you can never rotate the printer. I found my mesh can go way out of wack if the surface is not perfectly flat. I spent WAY to much time trying to get it initally setup only to find out the floor was warping the frame and that rotating the printer 45* made it nearly perfect.

I need to find some countertop offcut to put under it.

[viral briar]

Yep this is so true. That's why I say in the comment to make sure the printer is in the permanent location.

[viral briar]

That's a great range for a 300!

[shut sundial]

350, even

[viral briar]

Oh shit. Yeah that's right.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/nice-trent-arant-ttthefineprinttt-good-job-well-done-gif-27391991

[proven schooner]

@shut sundial The music wire wasn’t enough so I went ahead and made a mount for the door closer. Worked perfectly! No more umbilical laying on the belts when the toolhead is at the back. Lol.

[shut sundial]

Nice! Basically the same thing that I've been using, worked really well so far

[proven schooner]

I kinda just gave up on the music wire thing to save money. 😅. Used what I had, didn’t work, so used what I had again. Lol.

[shut sundial]

Lol thats very fair, I'm gonna run to home depot Thursday probably and grab some music wire to try out

That door opener looks a whole lot more solid than a walmart retractable lanyard, I'll bet that will hold up well

[proven schooner]

Btw. I wound up installing this in the end anyways. 😅. Works pretty nicely!

[proven schooner]

It’s basically the same kind as the one that came with my Enderwire conversion kit. I honestly have no idea where this second one came from. 🤣

[proven schooner]

@mystic sonnet Finally printing that cw2 with dual filament sensors!

[shut sundial]

What speeds are you running? It looks like you turned it up a bit

[proven schooner]

Uh. Good question. I think max print speeds are 300mm/s 10k accel with travel at 500mm/s 20k accel.

[shut sundial]

speeeeeb

[proven schooner]

Basically maxing out the dragon hf on flow but not maxing out the printers motion system. I do need this printer to just work for a little while before I break it. Lol.

I plan on fitting as many ercf v2 parts as I can on one plate after the calibration print. Just 1 print to print hopefully the entire thing.

[shut sundial]

I was able to print all of the V0 parts on one 350 plate lol

It's definitely possible

[proven schooner]

It’s gonna be the cotton tail parts that will stop me probably. 😅

[shut sundial]

Ohhh yeah those are big lol

Maybe since you'll have ERCF done you can do Hexdrive parts in 12 colors lol

[crisp adder]

Did you go Filametrix or are you going to need to mess with tip tuning?

[proven schooner]

Tip forming with cotton tail

[crisp adder]

My ERCF build was going to use Filamentalist rewinders instead of the Cotton Tails.

[proven schooner]

Nah. Those are gonna be done in either annealed PET-CF off the X1C or I’ll try out printing PCCF on the trident.

[crisp adder]

Old video that had poorly optimized macros but showing a manual filament cut and unload.

[proven schooner]

Yea. I’ll be using tip forming and cotton tail for now. Mainly because of my custom filament racks I’ll eventually get around to actually finishing. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Yea. I’ve seen that. I have different plans.

[crisp adder]

MK 👍

[shut sundial]

I'll be doing PCCF or PPS-CF, now that I have Chube for it lol

[proven schooner]

My only concern with PPS-CF is the fact it can crystallize in the hotend and then you need to drill it out. So I want to build a night owl for the micron+ before I try printing it so it can auto purge the PPS-CF out of the hotend before cooling down.

[shut sundial]

Yeah, that is definitely a concern

If I get it tuned properly and you want parts I could probably do a set for you

If, not a guarentee lol

[proven schooner]

Lmao. PC-CF from Addnorth will be plenty strong if I go for it.

[shut sundial]

Oh for sure, I'm going to try out Ambrosia PCCF over break

[cedar python]

I've grown to really enjoy the sounds of the printers chirping

[proven schooner]

Okay! Payday is here! I have ordered the stuff to redo my dc/ac power supply in TriBlack. Ordered wire, 2 hdr psus one 150w and one 60w both 24v, fork crimps, ferrule crimps and crimpers, contactor for main bed power and a SSR that should have no problem with the bed at max power, and a couple breakers to hopefully shut off the printer in the event of overcurrent instead the whole room breaker, and some din rail terminal blocks.

[hidden radish]

Would you mind sharing a bit more about your annealing procces for the pet cf? I am looking to print a lot of the parts for my build out of it and I was wondering if you had more specifics regarding temp and process, and if you need to compenstate for shrinkage at all? I have a dedicated toaster oven/air frier that should work great, but you said something about salt bath, do you have more specifics on this as well?

[cedar python]

Why new redo on the power? Just giving yourself the room for the later upgrades?
I do like the idea of "local" breakers though.

And since i don't know what they are, what's an HDR PSU.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/money-wallet-broke-gif-7855913

Also feel this is appropriate.

[proven schooner]

Room mostly. This solution will be tiny compared to current power. And I’m also redoing it for added safeties.

[proven schooner]

I’ve sent you an invite to the Armchair server where there is a PET thread specifically for this topic. This will no longer say unknown once you’ve joined. https://discord.com/channels/1029426383614648421/1243060862172925953

[proven schooner]

And the HDR psu is a Meanwell din rail mounted psu.

[proven schooner]

It is very appropriate. 🤣

[cedar python]

Oh nice! Look forward to seeing it. Might mimic it in the future. Might need a power supply for something else so just using what's on my printer and using a space efficient one on it might be nice. XD

And considering what you plan on doing, safety on safety on safety probably a good thing.

[cedar python]

That's pretty neat. And seems like a good fit for the use case

[proven schooner]

Yea. The safety thing is cause the bed heater. That is the main thing powered by AC that can go very very very wrong.

Looks like everything is arriving on Saturday. Hooray!

[cedar python]

Yeah, heaters are no joke. Remember when I was looking at printers there was a brand that I had been considering but then heard they disabled safety measures on the heaters. Needless to say, that's why I liked the idea of klipper and Voron.

The main safeties are the thermal fuse and SSR right?

[cedar python]

Bruh WTF my crimpers that I ordered before Black Friday haven't even shipped yet. This some bull shit. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Only the thermal fuse in a normal build. When a SSR fails it fails closed typically. So the heater stays heating and the thermal fuse triggers. My hope is that with the contactor, when klipper detects the heater not heating correctly it will turn off the contactor effectively cutting power to the bed heater entirely.

A contactor is just a really powerful relay that switches not one leg of AC but both the neutral and live.

[cedar python]

Hmmm failing close, very smart. I think I might need to look into this contactor thing. Seems a bit better to have. In theory at least

[proven schooner]

I’ll let ya know if I get it working correctly.

[ruby dune]

Since you're doing it for the bed, any plans on adding a relay to the hotend heater too? That heater usually doesn't even have a thermal fuse, so if the mosfet on the CAN board fails, it might get stuck on, I guess.

[proven schooner]

That might be in the future yes. But for now as I’m running a can board and not a Goliath hotend yet I’m not super concerned with the hotend. Once I have a toolhead that’s actually worth some money I will.

[ruby dune]

Nice. I'm gonna steal your idea about the bed contactor for my Trident tho xD

[proven schooner]

I ain’t stopping ya. 🤣. I will be writing some macro overrides however when I get mine setup. I will have a GitHub for the printer with all the mods and custom wiring soon and I will share that here.

[cedar python]

Sounds good. Best of luck

[cedar python]

Any headway on the ERCF? Curious how that goes together and how you will get it all integrated

[proven schooner]

Haven’t gotten the kit yet. Lol.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/sad-hamster-sadhamster-hammy-hampter-popcat-gif-6094188626957948188

[proven schooner]

It’s ordered. Just hasn’t shipped yet. Am in no rush. No rush means I do it right the first time.

[cedar python]

That's probably for the best. Troubleshooting that kind of deal doesn't sound pleasant so do it right the first time.

Will you be adding some sort of filament cutter?

[proven schooner]

Why does everyone ask that? 🤣. No. Tip forming is my plan.

[shut sundial]

Tip forming the best method for something like Goliath, purging that meltzone will be a nightmare

[proven schooner]

Same with Chube if I eventually do decide to dish out the money. 🤣

[west heron]

and it's cool

[shut sundial]

I dont even want to put PLA through my Chube cause i'm not sure Ill ever get it out lol

[proven schooner]

I’ll probably put PLA through mine should I ever get it. I always use PLA when first installing something on the printer.

[cedar python]

Because I saw a video in the thread with a cutter and didn't even realize that the stealthburner could ahve one XD

[proven schooner]

DB and RB can too. Yavoth I think has one. And Anthead has one coming. Lol.

[cedar python]

I have esun cleaner stuff. works very good very quick on the revo so maybe something like that with a lot will clean it haha

[cedar python]

So all the things haha.

I like for forming way though honestly. Need to actually set the unload for my printer to do that. Is it hard to tune that kind of deal?

[proven schooner]

No idea. Never done it. Lol.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/billmurray-yougotthis-lostintranslation-gif-5027770

[proven schooner]

Everything but the new SSR has shipped so far. So the SSR is probably gonna wind up coming on Monday at this rate. Typical Amazon things. 🤣

[mystic sonnet]

for future you 😜

[proven schooner]

Looks like now just about my entire Amazon order isn’t coming today. 🤦. Come on Amazon. I ordered early Thursday morning. 3 of the packages have shipped and 1 hasn’t. Of the 3 one is actually in town, one says arriving today but hasn’t scanned again since leaving the shipper facility, and the last one now says arriving tomorrow but is actually moving. Amazon is stupid this week. 🤣

[cedar python]

Amazon is being massively dumb the last few weeks. I think all of their stuff is just out of wack

[proven schooner]

Holidays ain’t helping with that. 🤣

[west sorrel]

Most everything was 3-4 day shipping and or overnight delivery from Amazon recently. Gives me an excuse to go shop for stuff locally when I can. Too bad there isn’t a hobby shop or similar locally anymore

[proven schooner]

Yea. Unfortunately everything in my order is not something I could find local. It’s all din rail mount power things.

[cedar python]

That's very true

[cedar python]

Now that I'm old enough to have a job and my interests have shifted I really really wish electronics hobby shops were still a thing. I think I have RC places around where I am but no RadioShack type deal. Big sad hours.

[cedar python]

I think out here we got some companies that deal with such things but fairly sure I can't just walk in and ask for it. 🤣

[west sorrel]

It really was nice

[proven schooner]

If I was in a EU country I could easily walk in any hardware store and buy them I think. 🤣

[proven schooner]

RadioShack was the best. Luckily. Hobbytown still stocks RadioShack things.

[cedar python]

I forgot about Hobbytown. Think I went once when I was real young.
Didn't realize they stocked radioshack things.

[cedar python]

That would be nie. I think there are a handful of things I can get at the local hardware stores that are din and more along the lines of what we are doing but spars. Got an electronics store I should probably check. Though i don't know if it's a local only or what XD

[proven schooner]

Yea! Cheap AA batteries that way! 🤣

[cedar python]

And I can't remember the name of it fuuuuuuuuuu

[cedar python]

recharables are da way XD

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/reminiscing-good-old-day-old-memorize-gif-11810785

[proven schooner]

Most of the time I buy recycled. 200 for $10 after all. 🤣. RadioShack AA batteries are just cheap when I run out.

[cedar python]

Dang that's quite a lot, but can't imagine they last all that long. Like the charge

[proven schooner]

Phone died. 😅.

They are mostly all brand new. Just ones that were saved from toys and products that come with batteries. Rather than tossing them out they sell em recycled. https://batteryhookup.com/products/aa-batteries-best-deal-in-the-world

[latent condor]

I can't remember the last time I used alkaline batteries. I use eneloops for everything AA and AAA sized.

[proven schooner]

@cedar python CLUNK! 🤣

[cedar python]

I was not expecting that much of a clunk my god!

[proven schooner]

Contactor’s are powerful af. 😆. Needs a big clunk to switch on and off AC at high current efficiently.

[cedar python]

If I may ask, how much did one of those cost you? If it ends up working like you think it will, really think it would be a nice safety addon

[proven schooner]

I think I’ve finally settled on toolhead for this printer for now. Gonna go with Reaper with dual 5015s for now and eventually CPAP cooling, mount to cartographer cnc mount with carto for the probe, for now will be dragon hf with an eventual upgrade to Goliath.

[proven schooner]

$13. Once I’ve gotten it installed and working in my trident I will make a GitHub for it and the macros needed to make it work.

[cedar python]

Oooo nice. I looked at the Reaper stuff, and was thinking it would be what I go with if I change out the toolhead. Also have seen something hinting at a version for toolchangers. But that was like amonth ago I think XD

[cedar python]

Awesome, looking forward to seeing how it goes.

[cedar python]

Will the Reaper be all black or have some other color as an accent?

[proven schooner]

Now that I have red ABS. It will have accent color.

[cedar python]

Ooo nice. Pretty much an inverse of my build XD Black is really the secondary color.

[cedar python]

Bright red?

[proven schooner]

Zyltech Red. Dunno if you call that bright. Lol.

This is the start of the new power supply stuff. First breaker for 24v power second for AC bed. Then the contactor and the gap will be the SSR. Then power distribution and after that will be the psus. I’m gonna print some spacers to go in between each color of the distribution blocks.

And yes. There is just enough height for the breakers above the deck panel. I already checked. 🤣

May modify the inverted mounts and move the rails down a mm or so. Just to have a little more of a gap.

[proven schooner]

@jolly otter Whoo!

[jolly otter]

missed chance to buy a white one

[proven schooner]

Lol. I almost bought red cnc and carto but decided black will look better in the end for this build.

[jolly otter]

pink is nice

[proven schooner]

I’m still not gonna be able to redo power in my printer today probably. 🤦 This is the latest updates on the package.

Just delayed in transit every 4 hours yesterday until 8pm. Probably gonna do the same today.

[proven schooner]

Okay. I might’ve figured out a solution to the annoying umbilical. Bambu labs sells the chain they use for the toolhead wire. I might be a couple of them to make one long enough and then design a mount for it.

Got the SSR. And it is in fact. Just a little too tall. However! I did just realize that I can easily make the electronics area taller by simply making the bottom panel mounts longer. So that’s an easy fix!

And I can pretty much guarantee at this point in the day. The PSUs and wiring ain’t delivering today. I’m kinda curious if they will ever deliver. They seem to be stuck in limbo.

[faint axle]

it is around christmas time so shipping is always real funky

[jolly otter]

one would think they learned from last years mistakes ._.

[cedar python]

A company learning from it's mistakes?

https://tenor.com/view/wheeze-wheeze-laugh-nikkal-kundhal-nikkalkundhal-gif-23223780

[proven schooner]

It’s 7pm and there’s still no updates on that package

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/spongebob-plankton-bring-on-the-gif-22046322

[proven schooner]

Taking a bit of time in CAD now to play with designs. Gonna be designing a printed sidepack I’ve decided. I think it will be even better than inverted electronics. I will leave enough room in the old inverted electronics (which yes. I’ll be keeping just making it shorter) for some LRS psus should the HDR ones literally never arrive. Lol.

While I’m in there I’ll work on a spool mount for the other side (which does mean I’m down to 8 out 12 colors if I use the 2 internals and 6 on side mounts) for the ercf. Possibly even throw the ercf in the cad just to make it look good. Slowly I may wind up building my entire Hexdent in cad. Lol. Hexdent will be the eventual name btw. HexBlack first as I will have hexdrive installed before replacing enough accent parts for it to become Hexdent.

[west heron]

Printed sidepack 😮

[abstract crown]

Im interested tell us more @proven schooner

[proven schooner]

I’ve got nothing more atm. 😅. Built the trident 350 frame with panel and insulation on the one side and then went to bed.

[empty ravine]

Hey

Is this your first 350+ printer? Or is that part old news now

[proven schooner]

Stock trident motors are in the enclosure. The gantry I’m going with (hasn’t been released yet me and a couple others are trying it out) moves the motors outside of the enclosure. So far easier to cool now.

[proven schooner]

It is my first 2020 extrusion printer. 🤣

[empty ravine]

😂 oh okay

I would rather bash my head in with a machinist square than build another 1515 printer

If I make another it’ll probably be a tiny t

[proven schooner]

Lmao. Fair. Gimme a sec and I’ll post a screenshot of what I’m currently working on.

Current progress on fully printed Trident 350 sidepack that @shut sundial has convinced me to name Trident Sleeves.

The red parts are printed as infill only to make a mesh

[empty ravine]

Goofy question but that is the bottom and not the back right

[proven schooner]

That’s the right side

[empty ravine]

Whaaaaat

Not to label something that clearly has a lot of its own planning

But kind of like HevORT?

[proven schooner]

Trident sidepack moves the electronics to the side. I have inverted electronics for easy access but I have decided that electronics on the side would make this easier. Plus. I can use the bottom still for PSUs if I decide to.

[empty ravine]

That’s clever. I just wish I could set my printer down on the bottom without worrying how well my printed pieces will hold up

[proven schooner]

Also I’m adding about 12mm of insulation with 3mm foam tape as well so it’s gonna be well insulated and easy to tinker with.

[empty ravine]

I tried sealing up all the panels on my v0 but didn’t get any chamber temp increase whatsoever

[proven schooner]

The first print of the sleeve is finishing right now actually. 4 layers left and less than 1 minute to go.

[proven schooner]

Sealing is good to keep the VOCs in. But insulation is where it really helps to increase heat.

[empty ravine]

Noted, what do you insulate with?

[proven schooner]

Harbor freight floor mats. 🤣. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html

[empty ravine]

Harbor freight is the best man

[proven schooner]

And the first part just finished. Let’s go see if it’s a fail. 😅. Freaking 110g of filament fail if it is. Hoping for the best here. At least this isn’t my first design.

[proven schooner]

Can’t beat $10 to insulate a 350mm Voron. Lmao.

[empty ravine]

So what are your goals for this thing?

Or is it just “build the biggest printer with the best parts and see what it can do”

[proven schooner]

Print speeds of 600-800mm/s at upwards of 100k accel with travels of 1.2m/s at hopefully 200k accel.

[empty ravine]

Holy Jesus man

On a 350?

I’ve seen it done

[proven schooner]

Welcome to speed. Lmao. And yes. On a 350.

[empty ravine]

But I have a 370x370 and W O W

It’s gotten a screen since then but you get the gist

On a good day, it still doesn’t quite do 15k accel

That’s what all this is for though

[proven schooner]

The Y assist is what’s gonna be giving me the huge advantage. It’s takes the weight of the gantry off the AWD motors so they can just move the toolhead.

[empty ravine]

Interesting, and then those have a whole different set of idlers and belts?

[proven schooner]

Yep.

[empty ravine]

Nice

I still think you’re going to bend an x beam along the way but I’m excited to see this thing print

[proven schooner]

My built in supports need an extra 0.1mm of separation. Clearly. Lol.

[empty ravine]

I think I’m missing something

[proven schooner]

You’re not. My sidepack design has supports built into it for an overhang. They are slightly too close.

[empty ravine]

Oh gotcha

I’ll never understand why, but I’ve never had supports print as well as my old ender 3 s1 with any ABS

[proven schooner]

Test print was just about perfect! Whoo! @shut sundial The first of many sleeve parts is done!

Less filament and time to print the other 2 sections with my little bit of optimizations and changes. Whoo! Lol.

[proven schooner]

My only problem I will come across will be when I print the back of the sleeve… I only have 3 6020 fans. I need 4. Lol.

Also I’m pretty sure that if and when my Amazon order does get refunded from not being delivered I’m gonna go with a couple lrs-350 PSUs instead of HDR. Simply for price and hopefully they actually come.

Plus. With this sidepack I’m building. I’ll have plenty of space for 2 lrs-350 in the bottom where the electronics used to be.

Though. I’m really tempted to just attempt ordering them again. 😅. I really want the HDR series! 😭

[jolly otter]

add knomi in one slot 👀

[jolly otter]

can confirm, plenty of space. tho i would go 200W because they are fanless

[empty ravine]

Woah man

Calm down

[jolly otter]

moar psu moar powar

[empty ravine]

Yeah little buddy, it sure does

[jolly otter]

250 frame btw

[empty ravine]

😂

Of course

It makes the BTT Pi and the pico look big almost

[jolly otter]

thats a rpi3b with Ali heatsink (~5€)

[abstract crown]

I need this sidepack , will you share it after you are done @proven schooner

[empty ravine]

Ah, the heatsink threw me off

[jolly otter]

i think there is only this model thats commonly available on ali

the rpi4 looks nicer tho

[empty ravine]

I need to sell some of this printer stuff

[west heron]

How you get dark mode ?

[empty ravine]

I’m now on printer build #4 and I have a bunch of spares I’m never going to use

[cedar python]

Considering some of the stuff I want to do on my vs, this would be sick to have on it.
I think with what you plan on doing with your trident this will look killer.

[cedar python]

They improved their interface if that's the one I used years ago.

[jolly otter]

it now sux as i need 5 clicks to dev mode to apply my custom css for special websites :/

[empty ravine]

Did you have to pay to get that version? Mine looks different?

[jolly otter]

all settings, advance something

[proven schooner]

It will be on my GitHub when it’s done.

[proven schooner]

I need about 350-400w in just motor power. So lrs-350. Plus. I will be doing things I’m not allowed to say to them before install.

[proven schooner]

Ew

[jolly otter]

no EW, build Trident

[jolly otter]

wtf 👀

[proven schooner]

Uh. This is a trident. Lmao

[empty ravine]

Just out of curiosity, how are you calculating power

[abstract crown]

I might just copy your entire power distribution

[proven schooner]

50w per motor

[abstract crown]

If thats ok

[proven schooner]

Good luck! 🤣. It’s relatively simple but due to the high voltage I’ll be doing not all of it will be shared.

[abstract crown]

Why not is this agains the TOS ?

[proven schooner]

It’s not because it’s super easy to do safetly. I just don’t want to share something or show off something that winds up looking unsafe. It’s mainly a personal preference thing for me.

[empty ravine]

I was recently told you can’t just use volts * amps for stepper motors like you can for BLDC motors

[proven schooner]

Correct. Which is why I’m going with 50w per motor. That math would end up around 150w per motor if I did the calculation that way.

The general rule of thumb is 50w per motor.

[west heron]

No you can’t. I personally use as a rule of thumb. Only consider 350w if above 3amps on an AWD setup. Since Xiar has AWD + Y assist at 2.5amp I think that 350w is a good choice 😂

[empty ravine]

Wait then why the hell am I using a 350w for 2 nema 14s on this v0

[proven schooner]

Cause you wanted to? 🤣

[empty ravine]

Besides just that’s what’s in the 247zero bom

Probably lol

Apparently the UHP power supplies have to be touching an aluminum plate with thermal paste between the 2 to get full power output

[proven schooner]

I was gonna just throw in a lrs-600 for the 55v range of things but price tag said I’d be fine with lrs-350. 🤣

[west heron]

Btw are you gonna use external drivers ? I’ve heard great things from the makerbase ones

Well I’ve heard that they are the only good ones…

[proven schooner]

Mellowfly externals. They are rated for 60v and use 100v mosfets and 80v caps.

[west heron]

Are you gonna test your reflow soldering skills and change de sense resistor lol? 👀

[proven schooner]

Maybe. Maybe not. May just depend on their performance

[proven schooner]

I would like to note while working on this sidepack sleeve that this is now the second time I’ve printed an electronics bay for my printers. 🤣

Also. Carto order has shipped! 🎉

[proven schooner]

Testing out ferrule crimping for the first time. While my tool is hexagonal it definitely came out more round. Crimp is solid though.

[west heron]

I prefer the hexagonal I find it easier to insert into certain terminals

If your tool is the one I think, force is adjusted depending on the wire gauge

Kinda magic 😂

[proven schooner]

It’s whatever was cheap on Amazon. Lol. I did adjust the force needed and it definitely made a better crimp as a result.

[west heron]

Yep that spring is like a one time adjust. I think I was told by and old folk that the adjustment is for the strength of the spring over time

Like when you get it new Minimal setting and over time when you see it weaken tighten it up on notch

Not sure if he was pulling that out of his ass tho 😂

[proven schooner]

It’s this one here: https://a.co/d/01i2iLY When I got it it wasn’t crimping the best but adjusting it a bit tighter it worked perfectly.

[west heron]

Definitely a good investment ferrule crimping is a must for you now 👍

Hope you also got what is need for fork and ring terminals 😉

[proven schooner]

I’ve got fork crimps and my wire strippers can crimp those no problem.

[latent condor]

I like square crimps. I find they interface with terminal blocks better which generally clamp with two parallel faces.

And most other terminals in general.

[proven schooner]

And that’s one part of the sidepack complete! Well. Mostly. It has no heat sets atm. 😅

And something’s up with the toolhead I think as I can see signs of loose screws like I did with the micron. I think I will wait to print again on the trident until after I have carto installed.

[proven schooner]

This thing is solid btw. Strong enough I can move the printer in the hula feet with it. Lol.

[jolly otter]

are you making extended side skirts for the bottom or just leave the block on the sides?

[proven schooner]

This is a sidepack project. Printed cause it’s basically free. Lol.

[proven schooner]

@west sorrel Trident 350 printed sidepack. All the electronics space!

[proven schooner]

I’m either doing that or just another set of feet. Haven’t decided. I’ll be making new skirts as well to match the sidepack.

[west sorrel]

Oh, I have been watching. All the power supplies!!

[proven schooner]

Yes! 🤣

[west sorrel]

Bozzle just shipped. I am going to put it on my revo

[proven schooner]

At least the revo might have a chance at some flow now. 🤣. I should really order one already…

[west sorrel]

I run it in the high 20s already 😉

[proven schooner]

Ooooo. Low 30s time!

[west sorrel]

It is mostly for the torchability.

[proven schooner]

https://tenor.com/view/marms-marm-marms-nft-marm-nft-solmarms-gif-6572523995460048518

[proven schooner]

Btw @west sorrel 1 panel so far. Love the look inside!

[west sorrel]

I like that look. I did the reflective stuff to keep it bright but I really do like the black as well.

[faint axle]

it does look realy good inside

[west sorrel]

DooMicron has clear panels all around!

[proven schooner]

It was between reflective insulation and the floor panels. Floor panels were cheaper for me.

[west sorrel]

I have the reflective glued with 3m 90 to the floor tiles.

[proven schooner]

I may eventually add something like that then. I am after all. Copying part of your printer. 🤣

[jolly otter]

i kinda want velvet panels

[proven schooner]

https://tenor.com/view/doja-cat-star-wars-gif-25078126

[west sorrel]

Dammit. that would be cool.

[faint axle]

it would be real cool

[west sorrel]

@proven schooner finally got around to modding that z umbilical. Should hopefully be back printing in the next couple of days.

[jolly otter]

Not enough scrap, idk might do bottom or rear

[faint axle]

rear would probably look coolest

[proven schooner]

You did a me! 🤣. Well. The gantry parts. I never modified the bottom. lol.

[west heron]

looks like a pile of turd

no offence

[jolly otter]

thats a funny way to spell Micron

no offence

[west sorrel]

The cable comes from the center of the lower panel. Wanted the corner swept so I could stop stuff from getting trapped behind it.

[proven schooner]

Makes sense. I still haven’t gotten around to getting the nozzle brush from @hearty bronze to fit my weird setup yet. 😅. Perhaps while I wait once again on psus to be delivered I will work on that.

[west sorrel]

Will be needing that and a poop bucket here soon.

[jolly otter]

Mine doesn't fit with archetype and harkt hasn't made CPAP ant head yet 😢

[proven schooner]

I just need to modify the mount for the nozzle brush to fit around the z umbilical. Just have been lazy. Lol.

[jolly otter]

my bed is too far in the back :c

would need to cut off like 1/3

[proven schooner]

The cnc gantry moved the max Y far enough I can have just enough space for it.

[cedar python]

What kind of stuff is this?

[proven schooner]

Ace hardware foam floor tiles

[cedar python]

Like the underlying stuff? Not seeing what you have on the website.

Or is it like the interlocking stuff

[proven schooner]

Sorry. Was tired when I sent that. Lol. Harbor freight. Not Ace. https://www.harborfreight.com/4-piece-anti-fatigue-foam-mat-set-94635.html

[cedar python]

It's all good. I get it, I've been sleeping way too late the last few days XD
Oh this kind of stuff. gotcha. Been meaning to hit up the Harbor Freight too.
Wonder how well it does as an insulator

[proven schooner]

My issue was. I don’t entirely remember sending that message. 🤣.

@west sorrel can say how well it does as I haven’t gotten my printer fully surrounded with it yet. But I will say that with a chamber temp of 60c the panel with no insulation was at 55c on the outside and the panel with insulation was only at 35c. So it’s definitely helping a ton.

[proven schooner]

Big question. Should I replace my skr mini e3 v2 with a mks monster8 v2? It would add more thermistor ports, can bus to the z board, fan ports, and other pins ofc.

[west sorrel]

Its what I have on the v2. Been a good board.

[proven schooner]

But should I add it in combination with the manta m8p I have? I have it extra atm. Stripped an old non Voron of parts and it was on it.

[west sorrel]

If you have the space, why not!

[proven schooner]

Hmmm. Well. That’s convincing enough. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Okay! @shut sundial I have ordered hex drive stuff! GT3 2MGT 6mm 10m belts, 10 red powge pulleys (cause red is absolutely necessary), Ebb36 (not specifically for hex drive but definitely needed anyways. Lol), and 6 2004 stepper motors.

[proven schooner]

I also ordered a 7x7mm cable chain to hopefully use for the umbilical. Just to clean it up.

And it looks like I will be printing hex drive in PET-CF and spending the hours annealing it.

[viral briar]

It's still a bit of a new design so it may be worth doing abs for the first round lol.
There's too much pressure on me otherwise hehe.

[proven schooner]

Hehe. Well. Maybe I’ll do that. Lol. I dunno if I wanna build it twice yet. 😅

[west heron]

I've seen reports of powge pulley eating Gates belts btw. so unless you also have powge belts wouldnt recommend

even tho they do look nice

[proven schooner]

You got a link to someone with that? Cause even powge sells a kit with their pulleys and gates belts.

[west heron]

#1173692825355944066 message after 400 hours

[proven schooner]

That to me just looks like normal belt wear and tear? How’s the belt look?

[west heron]

dont know sorry 🤷‍♂️

[proven schooner]

Fair. Is that the only instance you’ve seen or are there others? I have gates gt3 belts on the way with the pulleys. Probably will just send it anyways as I’m sure I’ll break something along the way anyways besides the belts/pulleys. lol.

[west heron]

I just know that mixing powge and gates is a nono, but yeah send it and report back 😂

[proven schooner]

Just looked around the Voron server. Generally it’s perfectly fine. Might cause a tiny bit of VFA from the 0.05mm difference. I wonder if the massive belt tension will reduce that. Double shear motor mounts with gt3 belts.

[proven schooner]

Uhhhhh. Problem! My ercf is now on the way… time to decide what I do first. 😅. Obviously hex drive stuff is coming from china so that will take a bit longer than the ercf. I’m also waiting on carto and need to rip out and redo all the trident electronics. So. Here’s my thinking. Electronics first. It’s not a hard thing to do and easy enough to fix it up now for hex drive install. Then ercf build and carto install. I say that that way because I’m hoping that I’ll start the ercf build and then carto will be delivered. There’s something loose in my toolhead causing bad prints so I wanna wait to pull the toolhead till Carto with cnc mount is here. After that finish ercf and give it a few test prints. Then build hex drive and install it and have some fun finally buying everything for reaper.

[proven schooner]

Also just ordered 6 m3 thermistors to put into the steppers on the gantry. Might as well since I should have no problem with that many thermistors.

5 thermistors on the m8p and 4 on the monster8. That gives me 9 total and with 6 being motors and 1 being the bed I still have 2 left over for chamber or anything else without needing an expansion board.

And here’s a question for @viral briar . You currently using 24v or 48v with hex? I might order tmc2240 drivers and go with 36v just for the extra temps. Lol.

[proven schooner]

And for anyone reading this. Btt EZ drivers are anything but EZ to install. Lmao. They require so much force to put in the holders it’s crazy.

[viral briar]

I'm using 48v. I also plan on adding more thermistors to the motors, I currently only have two. Another thing I need to do is add some fans to cool the motors.

[proven schooner]

Good to know! I think I’m gonna go ahead (when I have money again) and get tmc2240 drivers and go for a 36v build. I think that will actually work nicely with Goliath. I also plan on motor thermistors. I’ve ordered 6 m3 thermistors and I’m gonna drill and tap the motors for them.

[west heron]

Like ram sticks lol

[proven schooner]

Actually worse. Lmao. I had an easier time installing ram in my pc than these drivers. They aren’t going anywhere. That’s for sure.

[viral briar]

2240s are nice. I haven't tried them yet. 5160s are too damn pricey for this thing since you need 6 at least lol.

[proven schooner]

Yea. And I was thinking of going with 5160 externals for 56v. And I may still do that. But for now I might 2240 simply to make the worlds longest list of temps. Lmao.

It’s $68 for 10 tmc2240 and about $85 for 6 tmc5160 plus with no case from btt. So not too much of a price difference there.

And yes 10. I wanna put Z on tmc2240 as well. Not necessarily 36v but I may do it too. Lol.

And I just realized I forgot to set the hex’s on the back of my printed sidepack to meshes… we are just gonna go with it. It’s the back of the printer. They don’t need to be meshes there. Lol.

[viral briar]

I'm reprinting my motor mounts in pccf today. Want to be able to crank this thing lol.

[proven schooner]

Nice! I don’t have pccf on hand unfortunately. So I’m gonna use ABS-GF from Bambu labs for now (I have it on hand) as the hdt of it is 99c. So I should be good to have at least a little fun. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Hehe! 😆

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/funny-funny-cat-wondering-big-eyes-cat-big-eyes-gif-9858687667051649619

What motors are they?

[cedar python]

@proven schooner You said you planned on using the Reaper toolhead right?

[proven schooner]

Omc (stepper online) 2004

[proven schooner]

That’s the plan yes.

[cedar python]

Stepper online make good stuff?

[blissful latch]

very good stuff!

[west heron]

Yes

[proven schooner]

Yes. 2504 omc is what I’d like to use for this build but the 2004 omc is much easier to get on Amazon. Lol.

[west heron]

What a shame 🤣

[cedar python]

Nice, decided on which extruder to use? I think if/when I change mine I think I'm going reaper too but need to look into the extruder stuff. Kind of like the planetary gear style one, galileo, if my loose memory is right planetary gearing is pretty solid and what I read is that it's pretty good for print quality and stuff like TPU. But as you know I'm very new

[west heron]

2504 would of been

[cedar python]

That's understandable. Honestly hard to get any super nice things from amazon for this kind of stuff at least from what I've seen. But what's the difference betweeen the two?

[blissful latch]

2504s with long shafts are

[proven schooner]

A4T has a dual filament sensor version of WWBMG I’m gonna try and use. Since I will be keeping my ercf as well. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Hex drive doesn’t even need long shafts. Standard length motors is fine.

[proven schooner]

Torque

[cedar python]

Cools I might look into them. I was thinking I might switch my A and B to have motors that I could support both sides of the shaft. Get higher accel and all that, but that will be a future thing.

[cedar python]

Oh gotchas. that would have been solid for the AWD

[proven schooner]

Ah but you see. I have 6 of them. 🤣. Less torque is fine on AWD side as I have Y assist with 2 more of them to lower the power needed to move the gantry.

[cedar python]

Is that on the list of supported ones? Still getting used to some of the shorthand for these things XD. I do see the G2SA has /ww not sure what that is lol

[cedar python]

Oh, yeah that makes sense. 😂

[proven schooner]

Huh… @west heron so uh. The 17hs19-2504s-h and 17he19-2004s have the same torque overall… not the same curve ofc as the 2504 is a 2.5a motor and the 2004 is a 2a motor. The 2504 is also high temp resistant which I will aim for not needing now that I know this information.

[west heron]

2504 is way lower inductance

Helps with stuff you like to mess with 😉

[west heron]

WWG2 and G2SA is basically the same extruder. WW stands for wristwatch which is originally a BMG extruder. It’s just a repack that looks better and a bit more solid IMO

[proven schooner]

It supports the WW line of extruders so I’m planning on just building it and regretting things later. 🤣

[cedar python]

BMG? Which company is that? God there are so many names to remember. 😂 , and Ohhh I've seen stuff marketed as wristwatch didn't realize it was pretty much the same thing. Good to know. Out of curiousity what makes it more solid in your opinion? Different material or just a general feel kind of deal

[cedar python]

I mean if it mounts you should be fine right? 😂
Noticed a crack in my XY joint, not super concerned right now have backups anyway, so perhapd we will be building out our toolheads at the sametime.

[proven schooner]

Yea but. The 2004 is still lower inductance than the moons nema 14s in our microns. 🤣. I don’t know much about steppers other than it’s fun to send them at stupid volts and currents.

[proven schooner]

Bondtech

[west heron]

BMG is just the name for the set of gears originally from bontech. But it’s been repacked in many many many different printed extruders. I think wwG2 uses the same internals as G2SA it’s just the printed parts that are different. I think they are a bit thicker that it. No measurement or scientific testing just from experience from having them next to each other.

[cedar python]

Ah gotchas.

[west heron]

Yeah that’s why I’m thinking of rewinding them

[cedar python]

Ohhhhh I see gotchas.

[proven schooner]

I’m very tempted to try out that belt extruder as well. Papilio. It’s a very interesting extruder.

[west heron]

Yeah looks cool 😎

[proven schooner]

Would make tpu easy. 🤣

[west heron]

I want to try out wormgears that’s what I’m looking into

[proven schooner]

Lmao. Fair. But if tiny nema 14 motors with that high of inductance (I have no what inductance affects in a stepper) can do 1m/s at 40k accel without too much fuss I’m I’ll be very happy with the 2004 steppers at 56v. 🤣

[cedar python]

Didn't realize there were so many extruder types. Single vs dual drive gear, single seamingly better than dual but IDK, different drive types. so much

[west heron]

This should help you visualize the difference. Left is wwG2

[cedar python]

Wow, that is a significant size difference. Is there no power loss?

[blissful latch]

thats .. one hell of a chonky boy you got there 😅

[proven schooner]

You can also use 2 extruders in a build to gain a little more flow. So you could do wwg2 and g2sa at the same time. 🤣

Or even wwbmg and m4

My plan right there

[west heron]

It’s just an empty shell it a bit bigger with the motor and gears on it. No power loss since it’s the same internals

[west heron]

Dumbed down explanation is lower inductance allows the coils to “switch” on and off quicker so the lower the inductance the faster it is so the faster the motor can spin

[proven schooner]

Good to know. I’m sure they will love what I’m gonna torture them with. 🤣

[west heron]

And as you might know already high voltages help combat inductance at higher speeds 🤣

[proven schooner]

56v at 2a is gonna be the goal. Obviously not in the beginning. Going with 24v tmc2209 for now. Cause I have it. Lmao.

In fact I have enough spare tmc2209 drivers I could populate all 16 driver spots in my trident now if I wanted to. 😆

[west heron]

All the spares I have are broken 🤣

[proven schooner]

I have so many spares cause I replaced them with either tmc5160 or the beloved tmc2240. Which I may decide to go with in the end instead of 56v. I haven’t actually decided on that route yet.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/family-guy-stewie-griffin-hey-wait-a-minute-what-the-hell-what-the-hell-wait-a-minute-gif-1510307939783464638

[cedar python]

Hmmm interesting. I'll do some more looking into it

[proven schooner]

It’s a fun trick. Lowers the risk of the hotend extruder slipping by pushing filament into its gears. May gain an additional 1-4³ flow.

[cedar python]

So if I were to get a G2 kit I could just use those parts for the wristwatch? Saw one on West3d. Think I'm going to try it out when I change out the toolhead. Going to get that, and 2 of their 5015 fans. It's working great on the stealthburner right now so think i'll stick with those.

[cedar python]

That's nice actually. I'll have to look into that

[west heron]

Yes same internals

[cedar python]

Well in that case I guess I have my next major change XD

[proven schooner]

Got the printed sidepack fully mounted finally!

[proven schooner]

AC side of things wired! Minus the bed heater ofc. I need to extend those wires. And I’m temporarily mounting the original LRS-200 psu on the rail next to the AC side stuff until I decide about multi voltage stuff. Then the psus will go in the bottom where the electronics used to be.

This won’t be excessive. Not at all. 🤣

[proven schooner]

That is now main power, the fans, SSR, and contactor connected!

[blissful latch]

this looks really cool and im liking the idea of mounting the electronics on the side with a 3d printed enclosure. Il be using that on my trident build as well now. Saves me (and my back) from turning a heavy printer on its head 😅

[abstract crown]

Yup trying to decide between this and the inverted electronics mod

[proven schooner]

It’s definitely gonna be nice. I originally had inverted electronics but space is rather limited to stick your head inside to make sure jumpers are in place correctly. So decided I wanted sidepack but without the new frame cost.

[proven schooner]

Do both.

[proven schooner]

One of my AliExpress orders for TriBlack arrives today! I have no idea which one. Lol.

[blissful latch]

Aint it always like that with Aliexpress? Until something arrives you completly forgotten what you ordered

Its like Christmas but instead of once per year you have it all the time :D

[proven schooner]

Except I do know what I ordered. I just have no idea whats in the package coming today. My order was split in 3. Lol.

[west heron]

I do know aswell what I’ve ordered, it’s like Christmas after every aliexpress sales🤣

Just to end up into the “todo” box of stuff

[proven schooner]

Yaaaa…….. we ain’t gonna talk about how long that list is becoming. 🤣

[west heron]

Yeah I love how my micron kit box is still full even tho the printer is already build 🤣

[proven schooner]

Also I realized that I have a lot of height so I’m making extension boards for 2-3-4 pin jst xh connectors and staking them on top of each other with a custom mount and printed spacers. That way anytime I need more connectors I can just cut another pcb and add it to the stack. At least until my m3x50 screws can no longer reach the bottom heat sets. Lol.

[blissful latch]

Well thats even more fun!

[proven schooner]

@shut sundial Red pulleys arrive today!

[shut sundial]

The most important part of the build!

[proven schooner]

I have received them! Bambu red ABS-GF for color comparison.

[shut sundial]

Nice! I think the gradient look will work for the theme

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/ooh-very-nice-eric-cartman-south-park-s7e4-canceled-gif-22097133

[proven schooner]

I swear. USPS is so stupid. So I have 2 more orders coming for TriBlack before it can be renamed HexBlack. The first order shows expected Monday. The second order. That I ordered like 3 days after the first. Is arriving today. 🤣. I still need to find my m3 drill and tap that I’m pretty sure I have but not certain. Hopefully I can avoid ordering metric drills still. 😆

[proven schooner]

Why do I not believe it’s 53% done.

[proven schooner]

I snuck a pic of the actual print and not from the printers camera.

[proven schooner]

@viral briar @viscid hill At some point before they get put on the printer me and a drill are gonna have a little fun. 🤣

[viral briar]

You're a madlad.

I'm actually interested to see the results of this. With a finger test it seems like the Y assist motors get a bit warmer than the others. No idea why that would be though.

[west heron]

Might be something to do with motor synchronization

Although thinking about it. y assist is probably not affected as much as AWD

[viral briar]

There are definetely some sync issues. I haven't found a software sync option that works on theses kinematics yet and doing it manually is tough at the higher belt tensions I am running. I do have it fairly well synced up now I think.

[west heron]

Yeah even for AWD I only know of two softwares capable of syncing. I’m guessing with Y assist it would all have to be custom written. 🤣

[viral briar]

Yeah I suspect you're right. That's very much outside my skill set lol.

[west heron]

It’s hard to be good at everything

[cedar python]

Those parts looking good

All the strings

[proven schooner]

Welcome to owning a Bambu labs. 🤣

[cedar python]

I find it crazy how they don't add a plate or something down there for that, or a ramp on the edge to make it easier to get that stuff out. 😂

[proven schooner]

There’s a print for that. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Found my m3 tap and helicoil set. But not the right sized drill bit…

[cedar python]

If you've bought any kits they probably had one in it, if you happen to also keep them separate from other stuff. Pretty sure I have 2 or 3 now just because of kits, one of them I think from my LDO kit.

[proven schooner]

Only kits I’ve bought are formbot and they don’t include drill bits. Lol.

[cedar python]

Yeah, I saw it when I was looking into getting a Bambu before getting the voron. Just baffles me how they don't have something inplace already

[cedar python]

Ohhh don't, gotcha. lol
To be honest, I think the reason my LDO v2 kit had one was for one of the included mods. Think it was either klicky or the nevermore v5 hardware kit.

[proven schooner]

@viscid hill Tips on drilling motor for m3 thermistor?

Okay. I tried doing one on an old stepper motor. Drilled too far it looks like and I might’ve broken one of the m3 thermistors. 😭. Thinking about thermal gluing the thermistors to the motors now. 😅.

[cedar python]

perhaps I overlooked it but why

[proven schooner]

Why what?

[cedar python]

Why the drilling into the motor

[proven schooner]

M3 thermistor

Looks better than kapton tape

[cedar python]

True, but wouldn't drilling into the housing compromise the internals?

[proven schooner]

Looks like this after. This is @viscid hill

[cedar python]

Ohhhhhh gotcha

[proven schooner]

Gotta choose the right location.

I chose the right location. But too far. That’s why I was testing with cheap motor and not planned motor. And why I’m now thinking about just using thermal glue

[cedar python]

Guess it's being done since the AWD is going to get spicy?

[proven schooner]

More like I want to ensure I don’t melt my gantry or motors.

[cedar python]

That's understandable. Do you have a drill press and did you mark your drill bit with tape or a stopper? (I can't remember the name for them)

[proven schooner]

Nope. Lol. I was mostly just seeing if I could do it. But now that I’ve failed once. I’m gonna take the easy method.

[cedar python]

What I meant I guess. Like going so fast/high accel.

[proven schooner]

High current/voltage. wanna ensure I don’t set current so high I melt the thing.

[cedar python]

Ah, that's right. I forget sometimes you can actually set that manually.

[cedar python]

Honestly the press isn't the big deal, but the tape would help a bunch. Of course I haven't drilled into a motor but done enough to know, tap is your friend when it comes to drilling 🤣

But fair enough.

[proven schooner]

There we go. At least for now. Lol. Will add more thermal glue once the glue under them sets. Just to ensure they don’t go anywhere.

Yes minus 1. The 6th m3 thermistor did in fact break.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/star-wars-more-gif-21856591

[cedar python]

Tsk tsk tsk. done gone and killed a poor poor thermistor

[viscid hill]

You just follow the simple 2 step process

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/vldl-viva-la-dirt-league-souls-logic-vldl-rowan-vldl-dark-souls-gif-21997920

[proven schooner]

Made one last one with a hex spacer and glass ball thermistor. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Yes well. I’m bad at that apparently. 🤣

[west heron]

these are pretty cool aswell. Just another possibility 🤣

[proven schooner]

Yea. That’s pretty good. A little far from the mounting surface though for me. I wanna make sure I don’t melt the gantry. Again. 🤣

[west heron]

I thought you enjoyed doing that

[proven schooner]

Only once. 😆. And nearly twice.

[proven schooner]

For those that wonder why you don’t move steppers that are connected.

[cedar python]

Yeah found that out when my screen flashed on when I moved the gantry a little too fast by hand. 🤣
I've done it multiple times forgetting there is no back current protection.

https://tenor.com/view/patrick-star-starfish-gif-26051009

[proven schooner]

That’s a z motor. A single one. Lol.

[cedar python]

I'm curious is there a particular reason as to why they don't add something to prevent the motors from powering the board?

[proven schooner]

That would cost more

[blissful latch]

atleast modern board protect against revers power by the motors somewhat and shouldnt just die because you move the motors. doesnt mean that you should be pushing the around really fast by hand oranything 😅

[proven schooner]

You can easily blow a driver on a m8p v2. There’s no protection even on those boards.

[cedar python]

Can't imagine it would be that much

[proven schooner]

Not much. But it doesn’t take much for a company to tack on an additional $20 to total.

[proven schooner]

Ahhhhhhh. I can’t get these stupid tnuts out. 😭. I got the three on the left out but not one on the right.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/rip-cat-cat-meme-catcoin-gif-9164440438767075157

[cedar python]

Fair.

[proven schooner]

Hey look @mystic sonnet ! It’s your favorite!

[mystic sonnet]

what you got that for?

[proven schooner]

In the ercf 12 color kit that was delivered moments ago. Lol.

I said in. Not for. 🤣

[faint axle]

Lol

[mystic sonnet]

https://tenor.com/view/no-the-office-kevin-the-office-theoffice-gif-10428745286249371055

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/so-it-begins-raining-rainy-day-théoden-lord-of-the-rings-gif-16521230

[proven schooner]

Oh but you see. It has been getting worked on for the last couple weeks. Electronics redone (still not fully done), gantry has been torn out, currently working on installing new gantry, carto is in the us finally, and I’m hoping to get the electronics back on next week on my days off. Depends on Amazon delivery times after I get paid.

[proven schooner]

I successfully drilled a hole for a pg gland to pass wires into the sidepack from the chamber. This will make routing the 6 motors much easier. Doing one more on the front as well.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/thats-true-kramer-seinfeld-gif-6564373007119861775

[cedar python]

This is going to be one interesting looking build

Those glands do make things look much cleaner than just a hole. Are you going to fill any of the space in the hole that is left? (Like the space left after the wires are put in )

[proven schooner]

Probably won’t be any space left. Canbus cable, 4 stepper wires, led wires, and at least 4 possibly 6 thermistor wires. It will be full.

[cedar python]

Good point haha, I forgot how many wires you would be running. What's the one on the front going to be for? Assuming a smaller one for the stepper wires?

[proven schooner]

Smaller one for the other 2 steppers on the gantry with their and possibly more thermistors.

[cedar python]

You're going to get all the temp reading!!

[proven schooner]

Definitely. Lol

[cedar python]

You could probably get some really accurate chamber temps too. No more middle of the chamber readings that are for sure skewed XD

[proven schooner]

When you need 9 stepper drivers and you have a monster8 spare.

Gonna connect the monster8 to the m8p via can bus. Figure there’s enough connections that way.

[ruby dune]

Looks like your real problem is that you don't have enough steppers

[proven schooner]

I mean. I could probably connect the ercf to the monster8 too. 🤣

[fierce forge]

I agree, I think you need another monster 8

[proven schooner]

3 steppers and 2 thermistors down. Have to go to work but the last stepper and 2 thermistors for the back 4 motors need to be extended to reach their connections. Will cut a pcb for them to extend them.

[proven schooner]

@vestal crane Hex drive has accents. Lol. And my pulleys are red.

[vestal crane]

Looking good!

[cedar python]

I still can't get over the way those prints look. It's such a nice finish IMO

[proven schooner]

Bambu labs ABS-GF. Prints perfectly every time. Lol.

[cedar python]

I have an unused HTX .6mm Revo now so I might just need to order myself some.

Would also give me a chance to order those little a1 wiper things too.

[proven schooner]

I use 0.4mm. 🤷. X1C been running the same 0.4mm nozzle for over 1k hours now. Probably gone through 8-10 spools of abs-gf as well

No clogs either.

[cedar python]

Fuuuuuuu, I forgot how expensive Bambu filament is. XD
A little surprised that the glass filled is like 10 cheaper than the carbon stuff.

When the person who got it for me as a Christmas present ordered it, West was out of the .4 sadly. This is the high temp high flow one too so I think it should hold up to ABS-GF.

Dang that's not bad at all. I have heard/seen some not great things can happen with filaments filled with stuff, especially with .4 and smaller. No clogs and plenty of spools is a darn good experience. Suspect they have pretty decent QA on their stuff at this point.

[proven schooner]

Can happen doesn’t mean it’s an always guaranteed to happen. I’m sure at some point I’ll forget I have a cht nozzle in the Vorons and load filled filament. Then I’ll be the one saying don’t use that filament with a cht nozzle. Lol.

[cedar python]

I'll try to remember when that day comes to ask if you actually used the right nozzle. And while you are hittin it with a blowtorch you will realize you in fact didn't use the right one.

[proven schooner]

Exactly! 🤣. Hoping I’ll have a tc nozzle by that point too though. Less to worry about with them.

[cedar python]

Get a diamond back. could probably carve your name into the plate while printing without any worry. 🤣

https://tenor.com/view/joe-exotic-tiger-king-never-recover-financially-broke-gif-16765645

[vestal crane]

Undertaker FTW!
Or bozzle if you want TC and CHT.

[proven schooner]

Ew. TC is superior. Cherry red hot to burn out the clog

[cedar python]

Side note, I went to his center before his "situation" happened. Dude was a character for sure

[proven schooner]

Too bad West3d doesn’t have Bozzle. Otherwise I’d swap out the undertaker for it.

[cedar python]

Since I only have experience with revo, what is the deal with undertaker?

[proven schooner]

Undertaker is full TC nozzle. Basically the last nozzle you’ll ever need.

[cedar python]

Considering the price of a diamond back, I'd agree.

[vestal crane]

Never wear down, plus if it clogs just kill it with fire until the plastic is gone,

[cedar python]

Ohhh gothca. And what about boozle?

And I should have asked what is cht?

[vestal crane]

cht is the 3 melt zones in the nozzle for faster melting.

[proven schooner]

Cht is the filament split path in nozzles to increase flow. Bozzle is the combination of geometry like that but in a full TC (tungsten carbide) nozzle.

To remove the clog from a TC nozzle simply:

[cedar python]

That sounds really nice. I suspect I'll eventually outgrow revo/want something more. So might get to experiment with that.

Looked at the next-g from phaetus and their other high flow stuff. Seems nice. Also think they all can use the volcano hotends but IDK.

[cedar python]

Oh gotchas

[cedar python]

Interesting. the 3 path thing is the e3d copyright isn't it? or is it another company that e3d has a contract for. God this is so complicated to keep up with XD

[vestal crane]

https://www.filastruder.com/products/bondtech-cht-coated-brass-nozzle-1-75

[proven schooner]

It isn’t afaik. 😅. Cht is a bondtech thing.

[vestal crane]

Bondtech has a patent for it.
https://www.bondtech.se/2024/03/04/unleashing-core-heating-technology-cht-in-3d-printing-a-game-changer-for-all-scales/

[cedar python]

oh yeah, your right. XD

[proven schooner]

We’re okay with that though. We like bondtech.

[cedar python]

XD Litterally had it on my keyboard too

[vestal crane]

As long as they are fair with them, patents are a good thing. It's when one abuses them that we hate the company.

[cedar python]

I need a list at this point of the hates, the meh's, the good, and the super good. I can't keep up with the names!

[proven schooner]

Mention it and someone will correct you. 🤣

[cedar python]

This is it. Patents are good, and can be very nice. Patent trolls can go eat dirt, NO sand. That is worse

[proven schooner]

I’ve got 13 bondtech gear sets on hand atm. 🤣. Ercf kit ftw.

[cedar python]

My extruder has their gears. They are quite nice, felt well made with no burrs. Hate dealing with burs they suck, unlike bondtech gear sets. (Give me monies bondtech )

(side note just doing a print glad I remembered to lower z by a smidge' so I could fix my over extrusion problem That was an annoying one. Ambrosia needs some filled options. GF CF or even wood PHA when they get that going)

[cedar python]

I do very much look forward to the whole build with the ERCF on it. That is going to look sick!

12 5kg spools of black!

[vestal crane]

Look at Box Turtle?

[proven schooner]

Speedy ercf in the end. 🤣. May put 56v on the ercf motors too. Just cause.

[cedar python]

I want one so bad... Been seeing LDO post about it on Instagram and it's taking a lot of effort to not get one. doesn't help I have a couple people asking me to do multi material stuff.
I'd be happy with either but the Box Turtle would be great in my setup if I put it on top of my printer.

[proven schooner]

Takes less effort to buy one than not buy one.

[cedar python]

Load times? who heard of them. As soon as one's out the filament is already loaded from another room in another house.

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/falcon-out-line-but-right-gif-22029772

[vestal crane]

Well, mine arrives Monday, if the storm doesn't delay it (again)

[vestal crane]

https://tenor.com/view/treat-yo-self-treat-your-self-parks-and-rec-parks-and-recreation-retta-gif-5540972

[cedar python]

You got hit by a storm too? We got some "snow", and that's going to be fun to deal with since it's already turned to slush...

[cedar python]

You have that and the ERCF just unfinished right? Guess I should say the parts for it.

Oh will you be doing a build log of it?

[vestal crane]

Tomorrow is saying 1-3 inches, but it's been wrong before.

[cedar python]

Trust, I want to but that's really what the printer was, and I only have a part time job and probably medical bills soon. Dumb stupid health being dumb and stupid. 🤣

[proven schooner]

We’re forecasted for 4-6in. Lol.

[vestal crane]

Yea. I want to say a 6 position kit, but I'm having a hard time getting the ambition to actually build it.

[cedar python]

FFS this spool is almost out so it keep unraveling and it sounds like a stripping gear. Giving me axiety.

[cedar python]

It does look like a lot. I was looking at the 4 or 8 one when a sale was going on. And when I looked at the guid, holy smokes did it look like a project and a half. A very repetitive project.

[cedar python]

So much snow. Would be nice to get some good snow here. But our stuff doesn't really get bad till end of this month early February

[vestal crane]

Just the tuning and every time I go to build it, something else comes out I need to spend more money on.

For example if I were to build it right now I'd need to get some Filamentalist rewinders

[proven schooner]

And I’m over here with a 12 color one. 🤣

[cedar python]

That's fair. I think you might have mentioned that before too. Every time you turned around something new is the "most recent". The filamentalist, which I always forget the name, seems nice to have though. even if you don't have an ERCF. Though I suspect it adds up real quick.

[cedar python]

You are going to be able to build the units in your sleep by the end of it all. It's so many, but 12x5kg spools is going to be at least a weeks worth of continuous printing.

That reminds me, what are you going to be doing about the buffer for yours? 12 colors is a lot to manage.

[proven schooner]

Erct. Just the basic ones.

https://github.com/Enraged-Rabbit-Community/ERCF_v2/tree/master/Recommended_Options/ERCT_Buffer

[cedar python]

Ah, gotcha. Keeping it simple wasn't sure if you were going to do something custom for it or not.
I was just thinking about the routing for all that filament too. That is going to be a hell of a time consumer

[proven schooner]

Gonna consume a lot of ptfe too. Lol.

[cedar python]

I have to ask, how much did you spend on PTFE tube alone? It had to be quite a bit. I mean it's fairly cheap on west3d, got some for when add the stealthmax, but you probably just have a production spools worth XD
(of course this doesn't have to be answered, if it weren't PTFE tube I likely wouldn't ask XD

[ruby dune]

Do the fully printed Filamentalist mod. Requires no hardware except o-rings, a bike tyre, screws, and a spring. And works pretty well.

[cedar python]

Could probably start a side business selling PTFE 😂

[vestal crane]

The full hardware one is cheap enough, about $10 for lane. It's just... I dunno. Lack of ambition. Will it really be cheaper printing, throwing in the price of filament?

At least enough to not use real bearings.

[proven schooner]

I idea. I have 5m in my cart atm and that’s 12.50. As I haven’t built it yet. No idea how much it will take in the end.

[ruby dune]

Not sure. Aliexpress is banned where I live, so the hardware kit would be far more expensive than just printing. It cost me around $2 in filament per lane (plus cost of the hardware that you do need). ABS is $9.5/kg.

[rustic summit]

Filamentalist also barely fits in the sides of Trident (edit: with Doom Extrusions) and is the basis for NightOwl (which is getting 4 lane and 5kg versions soon)

[proven schooner]

@misty mauve for now though. 6 motors on my gantry now. 😆

[misty mauve]

Slightly more than AWD lol

[proven schooner]

Quite a bit more technically. 2 motors just take the weight of the X extrusion off the AWD motors means more accel.

[misty mauve]

My micron is basically as fast as I think I'm gonna go with any printer lol

Might eventually get a 2.4 or trident but I'll have to make space somehow

[proven schooner]

My micron is too slow.

[misty mauve]

I'm happy with my 800 at 24k :p

[west heron]

starting too look gud

[proven schooner]

Needed an extension board for a stepper motor and 2 thermistors. So I made one. Flow some extra solder on the traces to ensure they can handle any amount of current just in case I decide to do anything else with it in the future. @west heron Cheap cnc coming in handy. Lol.

[proven schooner]

Finally getting around to wiring more of TriBlack. Got that pcb mounted finally!

[proven schooner]

While deciding on the bed wiring I decided I actually need this here so I’m putting a 4 2pin extension one here and then drilling another hole in my printer. 🤣

[proven schooner]

@floral shard Little janky but it works! Made a Z umbilical. Just used a random pg9 2020 mount for bed side and for the other side I am using a sidepack so I drilled a hole through the panel for a pg9 as well.

And that’s with the bed pretty much at the max it can go. I have no toolhead atm so I have no idea if it can go high enough atm.

[floral shard]

thats pretty neat. straight forward and easy. i like it. im using funsor's/doubleT's kinematic CNC bed so i would need to adapt to that on the bed side.
Maybe some day Hartk will bring a remix/version for the trident from his mod for 2.4/micro 😄

[proven schooner]

Hopefully Hartk does! Need more mods from scope creep. 😆

Hexdent

I am officially changing the name of TriBlack to Hexdent!

There are now 6 motors on the gantry as well as actually having accent colors.

[faint axle]

what is your actual accent color gonna be?

[proven schooner]

The accent color is red. Primary black. All my vorons have the same color scheme.

[faint axle]

fairsies

red is a good one so cant blame ya

[proven schooner]

I put that pcb in there. Then wound up rerouting the wires a different way so now I’ve removed it. 🤣

5 more motors and 2 thermistors and I can power it on to start playing with config.

Though I think I’m gonna go to bed as my phone is just about dead. Lol

[proven schooner]

I went ahead and quickly did this though. That wiring from the right side pair of motors was bothering me.

[proven schooner]

Okay! Got the printer on again! Also got the monster8 v2 flashed and running via canbus. In total I will have 4 can bus devices eventually.

And yes. I do plan on running the cb1 for pretty much until it is actually the problem.

[proven schooner]

And I just realized it’s 5 eventual can bus devices.

[proven schooner]

The worst part of rebuilding a printer. Is waiting for all the prints to complete while you change half your plans while rebuilding. 🤣

[proven schooner]

Front 2 motors and their thermistors now go to the sidepack!

[proven schooner]

@ruby dune The pcb design I tried failed to cut properly on the cheap cnc. Unfortunately the 0.2mm bit broke on contact with the pcb. Kinda saw that coming. 🤣. I recommend not going below 0.5mm bits on it. I am gonna be trying out etching a pcb instead next. Cut the pcb on the cnc for shape and holes and then toner transfer method and cheap etching solution. First time for everything!

[ruby dune]

Oh damn. 0.5mm sounds good enough for my needs right now though. About to order that CNC

[proven schooner]

It’s perfect for basically all through hole things. It’s too big for most smd things. And since I like smd. That’s why I wanted to try it. Lol. Cheap cnc is 100% worth it though. It’s so cheap and works great!

[ruby dune]

F
Those things look like the ender 3 of cnc routers. Very upgradable and totally irresistible xD

[proven schooner]

From what I’ve found on Amazon. They are very upgradable. There’s even upgrade kits to give more space in the Y direction. The aluminum Z axis is $85 and the brushless spindle I’m planning on is also $85.

[cedar python]

Gasp name change!

[vestal crane]

Yea, threw me too.
Oh well. It isn't all black anymore

[proven schooner]

Yep! We have 6 motors on the gantry now and red accent colors!

[shut sundial]

Red pulleys, they changed everything

[cedar python]

The printer is going to looks sick!

[cedar python]

https://tenor.com/view/everything-changed-owen-wilson-saturday-night-live-its-all-different-not-the-same-gif-23380207

[cedar python]

RIP murdered out Trident

[proven schooner]

So it looks like I’ll not only be installing Orion hex drive (which is mostly complete now just waiting on West3d order) but now also Orion tri belt: https://github.com/bythorsthunder/Orion-Tri-Belt. I want faster Z moves!

[bold current]

the orion is great! love mine

[proven schooner]

I’m thinking it will pair nicely with my sidepack to give me a nice spot to install ercf and have a purge bucket inside the top “electronics” area.

At least half my trident will be designed by @viral briar . Lol.

[faint axle]

lol

[bold current]

i have the low voltage on top and main on bottom, perfect for a 250

[proven schooner]

I’ve lot and high in the sidepack. Thinking about just taking off the bottom panel entirely at this rate and having the feet on the frame instead. Just no bottom skirts anymore.

[bold current]

#voron_build_showcase message old pic

[proven schooner]

May even put a sidepack on the left and do something with spool holders there for the ercf. Could fit around 6 spools there.

[proven schooner]

That’s awesome!

[viral briar]

Oh I've been meaning to do one of those internal spool holders too. Since Ive got my chamber temps up with insulation. I already load up that printer with spools to dry filament.

[proven schooner]

100% worth it. No spool on back means way easier filament changes.

[viral briar]

I usually route my filament to the front of the printer. I agree that the stock location isn't the most convenient.

[cedar python]

Like top front on the lid.. top... roof? My brain aint working

[cedar python]

This will be cool

[viral briar]

Like this.

I should have said side, closer to the front.

[cedar python]

Oh gotchas. I was very confused 😂 That's pretty much how I have it.

BTW does your stealthburner have a fitting on it? Mine pops out sometimes when doing the final retraction.

[viscid hill]

That's Galileo 2, and it has an ECAS fitting

Love me an ECAS fitting

[cedar python]

Ah gotchas gotcha. I plan on getting the Galileo 2 or wristwatch. So nice to know they have that. XD
The tube popping out is annoying

[viral briar]

I probably won't use a fitting again. I find it to be more of a pain than it's worth for manual unloading and loading. Until I set up an mmu of course.

[cedar python]

Is the one used different than the normal pneumatic ones?