Rewire 2.4 formbot kit

[gray monolith]

I'm a colorblind (red green) low vision old man that would like to rewire this formbot kit so it's not a rats nest.

I'm planning to use My stupid stuff s remix of random's Cable management duct.

It seems to me that since the r1 version the wiring has been simplified better.

[gray monolith]

Maybe I didn't ask correctly or provide enough detail. I am looking to reduce the about of Power Supply wiring. I see other wired with much less. Any advice?

[restive spindle]

I guess you mean the 24V DC wiring between the PSU and the Octopus?

One thing I've done is to run the bed heater SSR from some other output. It draws like 10mA or so, and can be powered off of basically anything. I've used a leftover hotend output, since there's no really any wire that is small enough to fit in a JST-XH connector for a fan output, yet large enough to fit in a screw terminal crimp on the SSR end.

If you do that, you won't need anything going into the bed power terminals.

Also on the Manta M8P or Octopus pro, if you run the stepper drivers on 24V you can skip the motor power wire too. There are jumpers for each stepper driver where you can select "motor power" or "main power", and with them all set to "main power" you don't need anything for "motor power". Not an option on regular (non-pro) Octopus though, which doesn't have that.

[gray monolith]

for the start I mean both 24v and 5v Power Supplies. I recall see much cleaner setups. than all connections in use

[sick totem]

There are a bunch of things u should absolutely fix besides the rat nest of cables

• connect PE to the SSR. It handles 120V, thats no joke.
• if i traced down the black wire going to the Pi correctly, its going to the 5V PSU. And there is no connection between the V- of both PSUs, which is wrong because u dont have a common ground that way. Also shown in the VORON manual of the 2.4 Page 190
  Explained here: #voron_electronics message

Besides the things which i mentioned above - u usually only run wires as long as needed. Lay them out nicely and trim them down. Use proper ferrules and fork crimps. For the rest obviously the right crimp and tool but same approach

[sick totem]

Dont put 2 wires into one fork terminal crimp - use just 1 wire and use WAGO’s if u need to multiple a certain cable

[restive spindle]

At least putting two wires into one crimp is "less bad" than putting two fork/ring things on the same screw terminal.

While it's not "best practice", that type crimp terminal (which only crimps on the conductor wires, not the insulation) in practice can work fine with multiple wires, but some more care is needed making sure the combined wire size matches what the crimp terminal is for, and having a proper crimp. It especially seems to work poorly using thin conductors, and I wouldn't want to have more than two wires in there no matter what.

[sick totem]

Yea i agree

[gray monolith]

Yeah , I am slowly getting there.

[sick totem]

we had a user in a help ticket also with the rat nest u have currently and decided to start from scratch. so he pulled out EVERY wire and followed what we told to each single thing (like following IEC 60446). was clean asf afterwards

[gray monolith]

so recent updated. been working on wiring top down. that's why the can cable is still full length under deck. I chose not to cut until I have it all routed. My Bed was not removable as it was wired directly underneath. I have 6 Wago's behind the bed, all crimped Wagos 1 and 2 goto Wago's under the bed to 2 wago's for The Filter FANs. (with pogo pins)

[gray monolith]

That is pretty much the plan. just nimbling at it.

[sick totem]

ok and what is the purpose of this post? like what do u expect us to do?

[gray monolith]

Help me when I get to the Botton. I will be uber confused down there

and for that we will wire fresh to guide.

[gray monolith]

Ok what is PE? also connect PE to the SSR. It handles 120V, thats no joke. what size wire for connection between the V- of both PSUs?

[sick totem]

Ok what is PE?
protective earth

what size wire for connection between the V- of both PSUs?
22AWG is fine

[gray monolith]

So tracing it back I have 24v PSU (v+ v-) to a Wagos, Theese goe to a another set of wagos (24v , Octopus (v+ v-), 3rd Wago), Wago3 (Wago 2, PI, CAN). So other than cleaning up. Is the 5v Side good? pic in a minute

[sick totem]

red and black wire in one wago?

[gray monolith]

Thats CAN + and yes it's a black wire

[sick totem]

hm pretty odd and not IEC 60446 conform

[sick totem]

i would at least put a red heat shrink on it

[gray monolith]

The Can is eventually going to goto a Wago block on the Skirt. I'll use you advice and run Red wire to that wago.

[sick totem]

and why is the fan of the pi in a pull config?

[gray monolith]

i.e Unside down? My screw up. Just installed

[sick totem]

the air is going in the direction of the arrow

it should the other way around

the fans usually also have an arrow on the frame which shows the direction

[gray monolith]

Tks

[gray monolith]

Here's where I'm at almost about to the power supplies guys. Thanks for the help in advance. See anything recommend any changes etc

[gray monolith]

That Black CAN + line got me. inverted and killed a canboard. Thankfully have spares. Fixed that so it will never happen again.

[sick totem]

looks fine. i would still trim down wires more, use WAGOs on the DIN rail like https://github.com/VoronDesign/VoronUsers/tree/main/printer_mods/LoganFraser/WagoMounts for example

[sick totem]

how is it going?

finished wiring? if so, please add the "solved" tag to your post

[gray monolith]

Still At it. also dealing with health shit, so at times just not able to get to it. if it makes more sense we can close thread and I can come back when more prepared with questions.

[sick totem]

No u can leave it open. As long as we know u didnt forget your post here its fine