#Formbot Trident 300mm
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now i'm installing the bed heater with some RTV silicon sealant
idk if it will do anything with this edge to edge heater but hopefully it will help in some form
im currently printing those double shear mounts you created, i had to modify the plate a bit to accomodate non pinned ab mounts, so the bhcs screw fits into it
did you already try out or print those modified motor mount plates you thought about ?
(also i got one of those plates installed already! )
oh yeah i printed and installed them
those are pin modded ones though right ?
i'm curious why you didn't make a hole for the bearing screw instead of a cover? you will have a 4 point screw to hold the shaft bearing
yes
i don thave such long screws on hand only m3s i had long enough
i would eventually switch to pin mod anyways not needing those anymore but this would be a quick and easy fix for anyone who dosent want to get alot of more hardware, only requiring some m3s that they might even still have
yeah you don't need much only 4 long screws and a bearing
did you already use them or still not finished installing them? i want to know if they work ๐คฃ
i have one installed ๐คฃ i need to print the other one thought i had 2 of those with the bigger hole for the bhcs but i only had one of them ๐คฃ
i'm kinda 99% sure the plastic parts will give out and break before you reach 3-4lb tension lol
it does seem to work i looked in there with light and the bearing sits over the shaft
the full printed ab mounts integrated with that might be better, you can beef up the area around the bearing
i dont plan to run crazy high just higher than voron recommended
yeah but i'm more concern of front tensioner and xy joint
the all in one a/b mount looks sturdy enough
id be interested in those, i have to look how much filament i have left if i can print them two tone like mine are rn ๐คฃ they are pin modded right ?
yeah same bfi, i will try to go for 3 to 3.5 tension and hope for the best and if not i will look into cnc gantry lol
yes, i heard with higher tension pin mode is better than screw for the bearing stack
id be down to try those out if you wanna share them aswell
yeah sure
and use the first iteration with the cap to print those ๐คฃ
you might want to play a little with the height and tolerance of the bearing
i'm using 0.5 thick washer so if you are using 1mm maybe you need to increase the gap between the pulley and bearing so you get the right fit
make the gap 1mm for 1mm washer
also there is a test print for the bearing and pins if you want lol
if default is roughly the same like the plate method, then i wont need a washer the bearings sit super tight in those and wont move on their own, and create a tiny gap between the pulley and bearing
ok so the plate mount" was 16mm for the bearing mount/hole and this one is 16.20mm
you need to change that if you like a tight fit
it was pain for me to measure the pulley distance so i used the washer and dropped the pulley into the bearing with a washer between and screwed it in
i checked if it's parallel with bearing stack and it looked fine ๐
ill have to look into that ๐
i dont see a reason tho to have it sit tight against the bearing ? like the pulley wont wander up or down at all, and if the bearing fit is as tight as it was for me on the other plate then those wont move either ( i had to break the v1 without the bhcs hole appart to get it out there ๐คฃ )
as long as the shaft sits in the bearing it should still work tho
yeah it would be fine if the bearing and pulley didn't move but i got tired of hammering the bearing in and out for test prints so i had to use a washer and make it not so tight ๐คฃ
what if you make it tight and then add 3 screw holes to screw into the plastic and hold the bearing in ?
with the heads of those screws ?
i thought of that but there isn't enough space for screws
there is only 1.8mm of the motor shaft inside the bearing so i can't think of any other method except for washers and tight tolerance
already found one issue with this whole idea ( altho its only a me issue propably, and anyone else using the same setup )
my ebb36 smooshes into the right motor now ๐คฃ already bend one stepper driver cooler with this
so far it seems to work though, time will tell if it holds up to more belt tension
havent pritned the full AB mounts yet tho
that's good to know, i believe it happens when you home it right?
yes, itseems to be fine tho when just moving to Max Y Max X , but since home is like 8mm behind it will hit that specific motor
would have been nicer if belt paths where switched, upper belt being left and lower being right but that would mean redesign of tensioners, ab mounts and xy joints
it doesn't need all that, you just have to change x home position instead of right make it to the left (from max x to 0)
if it's sensorless homing then it's just software change or change the x endstop to the left
or maybe make x to move a few mm to the left before homing y ๐ค
cant change endstop archetype usually dosent have a endstop and the mod to give it a physical endstop is right side
and i wont go sensorless again after i had only issues with it in the past ๐คฃ
i'm with you on sensorless lol
i found a way to move x axis before homing y so it will give you some clearance and doesn't hit the motor
ohh i already fixed that lol
i just mentioned i had to swap homing sequence, my override does home X then moves x to 150 and then homes Y
oh good, i thought you were looking for a solution
luckily i'm waiting on vitalii cnc mount so i can mirror x endstop to be on the left to home x to 0
and for my other trident i just bought full cnc gantry and carto cnc mount so i can mirror that also ๐คฃ
ok the cnc mount is close to be here so i better finish up the toolhead assembly (xol-metrix) and x gantry
and i'm still waiting on one part which is p12 slim fans for this mod https://www.printables.com/model/970838-voron-trident-120mm-bed-fans
i used a similar mod made for non slim fans i lost travel anyways on Z cause of the covers for my z motors ๐ switched to using the aux fan for heating the chamber tho since
hopefully this won't effect z travel
so after i bought vitalii and carto cnc mounts i finally checked the cad for both and turns out i have to reprint the toolhead ๐
it's not drop in replacement for xol because some of the holes on xol doesn't match with the carriage so it need some modification and i'm out of polymaker purple and blue
i always wondered whats so speciial about the cnc mount for carto ๐คฃ
im currently using Archetype and was using reaper with just the printed mounts
honestly i bought those cnc mounts because i didn't want to use those xol belt clips lol
and they look much easier
ohh.. i dont have issues with the xol belt clips i kinda like em ๐ a bit fiddly to get the belts free if needed but other than that removing the belts from the carriage dosent need any new adjusting and getting the right length done, just pop the pin out and you got them in your hands ๐
the first version is fine and i'm currently using it but the new one with the 4mm tube is pain to source
i figured just go with cnc and you don't have to worry about them ๐คทโโ๏ธ
i hadnt had any issues getting the tube ๐คฃ our hardware store has brass tubing that works in all sizes
just got a brass tube, cut it and done
I was telling myself on this build the wiring will be nice and perfect but idk what happened lol
Remodeled a little jst splitter for part cooling fans
I think i need tophat, not enough room for orbitool cable and ptfe
It's wiring time and i f***** hate it ๐