#V2.4 300mm LDO kit build (first 3D printer)
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*Some assembly required π
Ground the SSR and the Buildplate π€πΌ
ssr?
Solid state relais, it is controlling the ac voltage to the heated bed.
This is why it should be grounded.
Thanks
Yeah your SSR mount looks like it is not coated in anything weird (like my weird black formbot mounts). so it should work like that. As long as there is a low resistance to ground.
That was a fast build! GJ!
That video has no sound.
Sounds completely normal to me.
Main difference between Vorons and bought printers. Vorons donβt use stealthchop as usually the fans and everything else is louder than the motors. That. And Vorons are usually printing was faster than stealthchop can handle.
Amazing build. Love that purple.
Now I just need to resist the Urge finishing my Doomcube with the accent parts reprinted in a different, darker purple. π
Wrong about the former? My motors are 10x louder than my fans
Not usually the case. Most of the time fans are way louder than the motors. Especially in something like my micron. Which has 16 fans in total. You donβt really hear the motors much.
16 fans? How?
3 for the toolhead, 2 for the electronics bay, 1 exhaust, 2 bedfans, 2 stepper fans
3 toolhead, 4 lower e-bay, 4 upper e-bay, 1 pi fan, 1 stepper blower, 2 bed fans and 1 filter fan.
4 for each?
Yes. 2 on each side.
Thanks!
What an amazing coincidence π
Thanks, sadly shipping to Germany would be quite expensive.
295mm sounds ocd triggering. Hopefully the stealthmax fits on that plate.
For the stealthburner LEDs? If so you need to have the stealthburner led's configured, see https://github.com/VoronDesign/Voron-Stealthburner/blob/main/Firmware/stealthburner_leds.cfg
Ah nice, I thought only the stealth Max s fits on a 250 * 250.
Either way both should be great filters.
Thanks, I see. I misspoke while talking about bed size. From the got hub I thought they meant that the stealth Max is almost 300mm in diameter. But if it is 250 by 250 that is even better considering warping
Oh in that case it should fit on a 300 bed with ease. The hinges don't seem that big. So even that won't make a meaningful difference.
Cardboard mod! Best mod there is!
Best kind of jank. Cardboard development stage xD
I printed my first Voron on an ender 3 in a cardboard box. Lmao.
Same, I enclosed my prusa clone with a wooden box. The door was cardboard too.
Cardboard is basically double walled acrylic lmao.
So just print pla clips?
I wouldn't want to inhale an unnecessary amount of abs VOCs.
So I'd enclose like that beforehand.
Either way if the parts should look decent I'd enclose the printer.
It depends on what you prefer
You can technically print the panel clamps in ABS in open air. Just print 1 at a time and the heat of the hotend will keep the surrounding temps equal enough for them to print. Itβs what I do with my builds.
I meant pla
Edited
I know. Iβm just saying you can do it with ABS. Doesnβt have to be enclosed.
Should be enough for printing panel clips. But just print them out of PLA?
@south willow Sounds like do it once properly with the final parts. So you don't have to deal with scraping the glue residue off the door. I'd do the same tbh.
That is why I was "quoting" it again. I thought it was answering the pla question too. π
which residue?
The residue from vhb presumably
but the vhb doesn't even touch the extrusions?
It does on panels if you use vhb for the clips.
Yeah but just print them with pla and don't worry about it lol
Yes I ment the vhb tape.
If you don't care that is nice. π
But I have seen some nasty tape residue on printer panels. So I won't do stuff like that.
just let the pla parts be the final parts?
To change the subject.
Are you going straight for printing a nevermore Max?
Or are you building something like a nevermore micro as an interim solution?
So you can start filtration almost right away.
Sounds nice, so you can use it to print the Max and take your time to properly tune the printer.
Later you'll even have some bed fans if they are necessary π
I can't help with first layer stuff haven't figured it out myself.
Nice! π
So you got your retracts figured out.
Are you using Ellis guide to tune the printer?
Ah I see, so no big deal at all.
Sounds like I need to take a closer look at orca. Sounds even better than prusa slicer
That is very helpful. I'll try it when my new hotend arrives and my exames are through.
Nice, 0.21 degreees seem very little
Happy fancy charcole scooping!
So you created some spaghetti art which has to happen sooner or later π
Amazing! You should set up an art exhibition called 2.Pasta thank me later xD
oof
50c seems nice. You are almost at temps that are expected for Vorons π
Dann that is annoying. But does it still work?
Perfect.
Where did you get that from? Toolhead pcb, hotend thermistor, or dedicated chamber thermistor?
And are you running bed fans/nevermore/the filter?
yeah so it's not at 50c.
Ya have a spare thermistor? Stick it in the drag chain, where the chain meets the A drive
measure over there
I recommend getting a 5 pack. Thermistors are consumables
Just get a couple of some v6 or glass bead thermistors.
A pack of these will be perfect- tracking motor temps, extrusion temps, chamber etc etc
or EPCOS 100K B57560G104F
that's what I use
Looking good!
Even better than cardboard.
Live the subtle purple accents
Looking great! 
Which filament?
Chamber thermistor?
So you are blindly going for insulation?
Install it now, and find whether it's actually the abs' tendency to warp which is causing the problem, and not bad adhesion or smthing
Also makes a nice comparison
Which insulation are you planning?
I really like monolith panels for the looks
Which clips?
For attaching the thick panels to the extrusions
How are you going to attach it then? It will look a little ugly
Take a look at these
Install the foam on the inside of the printer
if the foam is 10mm thick, and the panels is 3mm thick, go (10 +3 ) - 0.5mm clips
Cozy 3d printer with a warm blanket